Watches Just Changed Forever (I’m Not Sure How I Feel About It)
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- Опубліковано 30 кві 2024
- So there's a new watch out that's changed the way I think about watches. It's slimmer, lighter, more complex and cheaper than anything I've seen. What does this mean for the future of Swiss watchmaking?
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Behrens Ultralight 20G
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Here on Andrew Morgan Watches I want to bring you all the best on watches from my personal perspective. There's watch reviews, expert reactions, top 10 lists, the best and worst of the industry and a whole bunch of memes, too. So if you like Swiss watches, German watches, Japanese watches-whatever-you'll be sure to enjoy AMW! - Розваги
Just FYI, this is a well-tortured prototype that's been assembled and disassembled a few times, and hopefully not as the final pieces will come...
Guess this is why the shock absorber spring is open at 5:35 😅
@@michaelmatsonashvili Was just about to point that out!
As was I. LoL
Yep spotted that too 😂
that unhooked spring really triggered my OCD
Kate Moss joke straight out of 1996. Andrew is a national treasure.
IKR
There is a version of a stock used on the SIG MPX carbine/submachine gun (and on some other guns) that’s very thin... Its colloquially known as the “Kate Moss” stock 🤣.... and no, it hasnt been around since 1996, it was designed about 10yrs ago
I feel an important point of context is that a Casio F91W on the resin strap weighs in around 22.5g. To get a mechanical watch as light or lighter than a Casio is quite an achievement.
True. And titanium, even though a very light metal, is still 3 times heavier than resin.
Yes, and try to get that mechanical watch repaired or just lubricated.
I've had a sad tale of downright evil watch-maintenance people screwing up my Oris watch, and although working again, it is disfigured because they tried to relume it.
I'm never going back to mechanical watches, although I'm a sucker for UA-cam videos of them.
Thank you Andrew for your quiet humour.
Mr. Morgan, get this watch to a watch maker ASAP! 5:35 the endstone spring is half out, one slight tap and the other end will pop out as well, launching the jewels throughout the inner workings of this magnificent piece of watchmaking. No joke!
It was all impressive till I saw this loosing jewel...QC not yet there I guess...I think like in many fields sometime it is not how a machine start and run , or for that matter how shiny it is, but it is about how consistent is over time. Aside that, impressive result, even if curved caliber have been introduced decades ago from Gruen with the famous CURVEX...cheers to the future
Check the pinned comment! It looks like this is a much abused show piece.
@@yosefmarkov425 Yeah, I noticed Andrew's pinned comment shortly after. Still very important to put the shock spring back in place asap, wow, that's some sloppiness by a previous reviewer.
I too noticed this right off the bat, zooming in to verify. Nice catch!
Chinese politics and watchmaking could be mirrored with Russian politics and invading, or American /Israeli politics and removal of freedom of speech for university students.
Love Andrew's videos and intelligence. Love this watch, preferred the colours on the limited edition carbon 11g. What's important, as was said, is that this is now the tip of the iceberg. China no longer copies. In 5 years it's become the biggest producer of electric cars bar none. The quality is 5-10% behind German standards, the price 20-50% lower. Five years ago the cars were copies, much lower quality, Land Rover successfully sued Land Wind stopping production of their Evoque copy- in China. Nowadays Chinese car manufacturers have their own identity and are the better for it. They're also the tech leaders in electric cars. Because they're extremely dynamic and forward looking. In five years. It took Kia /Hyundai 20+ years to get there. And the world doesn't see many of these new Chinese products as they have a 1.4 billion local market.... Check out the 2024 Beijing auto show. Should the car world be worried? I think yes. But what has this to do with watches? Loving both cars and watches, and living the past 5 years in China, I see the same in the watch industry. On a smaller scale granted, but time goes tick tock without stopping. I doubt Swiss watches will disappear- legacy makers always survive in the minds of those that see legacy as important. Others will enjoy Chinese products for what they are, and will continue to grow and become. New references. I have a collection of mostly independents from around the world. The cheapest and most reliable, plus most distinctive are Chinese- CIGA Design GPHG winner anyone? Oh, yes, of course, it's true, they're much cheaper over here too. As a Scot I'd love an An Ordain but can't afford it. My Paulin is lovely, but the movement sucks. I now have more Chinese watches than any brand. I had none before moving here as they were invisible out with China. Now we have this video. Of this watch. Do I want one? I'm sure the answer is clear.
"Nothing good will come out of a broken rubber" 😂😂
can confirm, i'm no good.
Yep that was sneaky dirt 😂
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 Brilliant!
I had to read it to get it. Thank you.
Hahahahahahahaahah actually laughed out loud here
I hope no one expected the Chinese manufacturers to make parts for the fancy Swiss brands forever and not try their hand at the luxury watch game? Perhaps competition will bring down the ever rising prices a bit. It should not be too hard to make a watch that puts a Rolex Explorer to shame at half the price.
Chinese will never win at this play, for next thousand year. Natura non facit saltus. Just think about Eterna.
What enables the Chinese to make versions at such low prices. Do you happen to know the margins on a Rolex?
@@christopherd.winnan8701Lower Labor costs and lower overhead .. primarily: cheaper energy prices, lower taxes, less regulations on business (compliance with requlations is veryexpensive in the west) lower costs for Things like trash disposal, especially for chemicals etc. plus no or limited shipping costs on parts.
There already are watches that put Rolex to shame for a lot less money. People don't want to buy them or wear them though, because it doesn't say Rolex on them.
I have quite a few fancy Swiss and German watches but have never considered Rolex. To me, it's just a status thing. I have a Rolex I have money. Don't think I'm having a go at you, I'm not. Merely pointing out if they sold Rolex for half the price, nobody would buy them.
5:37 I see a defect, the jewelry holder on the balance wheel, one side is out.
yeah thay doesn't look quite right.
And I noticed a couple of screws that were either marked or rusted.
I was unsure how i felt once, went to the bathroom. Made a great improvement
😂
For £6K I would prob want that balance wheel jewel clip fully located 👍
I’m glad someone else noticed. My jaw dropped o.o
@@captaincef Ya, I facepalmed as soon as I saw it.
That balance wheel also looked a little out of balance too.
Read the pinned comment
@@TheChzoronzonright you are!
Ouch! It's a shame that the shock spring on the balance cap stone is unclipped on one side as, later in the video, it seems that the balance assembly is oscillating quite badly along its vertical axis. That wouldn't inspire confidence in a Seiko 5 let alone something at this price point.
The incabloc shock spring on the balance wheel appears to be only clipped in on one side !
Yep I thought I was seeing things...
i caught it too.
Agreed!
Yep, I noticed this flaw as well. After viewing your wonderfull video again I can conform only half of the incablock spring is properly seated thougout the video.
I wonder if the performance of this remarkable watch does improve considerably after fixing this small issue missed by quality control. Or is this fault caused by transporting it to Andrew.
Agreed.
How much would it weigh without the hidden camera?
Damn right!
The NSA hidden camera, you mean?
Probably typing this on his hidden NSA microphone/camera/phone/GPS/brain cooker scanner device.
Can we take a moment to appreciate the cinematography? Those were some crazy unique moving shots. Well done.
The shock spring on the balance wheel cap jewel isn’t seated! 👀👀👀 5:44
Berhens are doing a lot of very super cool things with watches. They're those types of watches you want, and if you finally get one...realise it doesn't suit you, it doesn't go with anything you wear and gives an immediate sense of buyer's remorse.
I still want one though😂
Astute comment. The price of these might go through the roof... or it might not. I'm not sure I'm ready to drop $7,500 on a mass produced Chinese watch, no matter how clever it is.
But I still want one though.
Agree 100 percent, including that last bit!
The Ned Flanders reference was everything!! 🤣🤣🤣
Hahaha came to the comments searching this!
You can see at 5:36 that one prong of the jewel keeper is off, and that annoys me a lot
Damn beat me to it
Read the pinned comment
Annoyed the hell out of me. I couldn't think if anything else throughout the whole video. 😆
Thanks, once seen, can't be unseen 😢
Great video! I enjoy these way more than those where you list 10-20 watches 😬 keep it up 🤟🏼
A great video! The jokes were spot on, and also the information. This watch looks wild and will be interesting to see people who are out and about wearing it. Keep up the excellent work!
I googled "are horses afraid of their feet"
And? Are they?
Not their feet, but nearly everything else
Do they even have feet?
@@HGSolberg In common parlance yes, but not technically. Each foot is actually a single toe. They also have hands, if we're talking about height!
The curved movement has been done previously, by Ressence.
Very fun to see the innovation. Would love to see you review the Ressence Type 1 - the most recent release with no numerals
As others have pointed out, the balance shock spring isn't fastened in properly hence the wobbly balance. However, as it's that difficult to tell the time on this one it does it matter if it's running like a dog.
Thanks for bringing this to my attention. It’s a very impressive thing and as you say, can’t wait to see what they have in store for us next
Great video! I really enjoy seeing something different than the pretty regular and mundane watches
As a watchmaker, that unhooked shock spring is driving me insane. Piaget also does the whole caseback as a bridge thing, and having worked on them, can't say I'm a fan. I would love that watch, though if the shape was symmetrical. And for a hand wound, 30 hours of power reserve is plenty. I'd hate to have to change that mainspring though cause like the Piaget it looks like the barrel is part of the caseback as well.
Haven’t seen anything that smooth since I tried manscaping.
Really like designs being pushed. Easy to test how hard or easy to read the time as jumps around in video. Clever idea 😉 Personally I'd change colour of numerals from white to red or blue. I think also there is no need to make curved on wrist plus keep square or rectangle so have symmetrical 😍
It looks like somebody took a melted Apple watch and stuck mechanical movement in the case.
an amazing technical achievement, if it was done by a Swiss house people would be gushing over it. The fact that it's significantly cheaper than anything the Swiss would do is a bonus.
That watch face gave me an idea. You know the “useless boxes”? How about a mechanical watch that runs beautifully, but doesn’t actually do anything. I think that would be hilarious. I like the innovation.
I like having a watch on my wrist. To be able to see it. Look down and see this amazingly crafted piece of metal on my wrist. This does not look like it’s there! Not sure I can jump on board but it’s an insane advancement and this represents some amazing things to come out of China :)
Happy Thursday Andrew! "...as useful as fingerless oven mitts." Thanks for showcasing this fascinating watch, and like you, I am not sure how to feel about it either.
Why is the balance so wobbly and the balence jewel holder thingy not all the way in?? Apart from that, it's neat, but i wouldn't wear it
I've got 3 Sea-Gull watches. They're a Chinese brand with heritage and in house movements. Great quality, especially for the price.
Well, I'm glad this watch exists, I do like the look and design and I find it quite pleasing to look at. I don't think I would buy it but I will reserve judgement until I hold it in my hand and take a closer look. BTW @AndrewMorganWatches you were the reason I followed the Watchfinder channel, but I'm loving this new channel.
I applaud the effort and thought put in to it. Not on my my list but hope there's a market for it.
Glad to see that I am not the only one noticing the balance pivot shock spring being half-engaged. It distracted me from hearing what was otherwise an entertaining essay
Brilliant, nothing good comes from a broken rubber 😂...
The pro tip at the end is genius
this is what a fresh air in the old-ass industry looks like !!! my god i want one right now !!!
Tucked up top left, I didn't know what, but that sounds cool 😊
It looks incredible, definitely something to look out for in the future. For now, I am not so sure, have you noticed the half undone shock absorber of the balance wheel. You could say failing quality control. Perhaps the whole mechanism is not so sturdy after all. I would definitely not rushing in to buy at this point in time.
The retaining spring on the balance cap jewel is half sprung! Good lord. How did they miss that?!
Andrew, can you please consider a review of the Credor Kuon GCLX999? Credor recently created an English language version of their website and this (I believe fabulous) line along with the Golden Leaf line seems primed to be the "team" they may bring to the global market. Manual Spring Drive, Porcelain dials, Zaratsu polishing beyond that of GS, etc. Would love to hear your thoughts. No one has really done a thorough YT video on them...
I imagine Chinese watch making is a lot like a lot of other Chinese manufacturing: The cheap, poor quality stuff is the most known because that's what sells to the average Joe (who will endlessly complain about it, but still refuse to spend a cent more for something better made) but there are also very skilled makers catering to people willing to pay for it. An iPhone gets made in China, but you rarely hear people complaining about their build quality.
As for Behrens, they seem to going hard after the whimsical complication market but struggle in making things smaller and more wearable. It feels a bit like it's a company run solely by engineers. In other industries, this can lead to some neat products that lack refinement and polish (directly translating into QC issues in some cases). But as you said, they're only going to get better and I'd be sorely tempted by some offerings if they got to a 40mm size with an easily changed strap
I don’t think I’ve ever read a more reasoned comment on the internet. Points to you!
Looks great, I wish I had one, but 6k is too much for me for a watch. I work on changing it, so maybe I will be ready for Mk.2.
I wish it would be swimproof. And having day of week display would be nice too, there is 1 quarter free on the display.
And the strips should be easier to change. 20g is great, I'm ok with 30 or 40. My current watch weight 140g - too much.
The incabloc setting on the balance is half popped out!!! 8:30
One of the tangs that hold the ruby in on the tourbillon isn't in properly !
Something has to give at the low price, and it looks like it's quality control. One of the clips is clipped on only one side and about to come loose.
Andrew is on form today... Love it!
All honesty I still go for a grand seiko or Longines however if I had to choose between this and richard mille watch, 10 out of 10 times I will take this over RM! At least it has multiple uniques things to use it as a conversation starter! Instead of only showing how much money I have with 0 taste!
What an amazing watch design. I love it. One thing though - the little pin above the balance wheel looks like it is about to go "pop". 😰
this is a prototype, the commercial ones come without any problem.
Hey what microphone do you use?
This is such a cool watch. Very striking first impressions.
I luv it and yes i would buy one.....so how do i get hold of one. ⌚Great stuff Andrew and can we have a follow up to this vid with your viewers alternatives. And would you buy one ????
By the way, the shock protection is unclipped and in danger of opening completely causing the top jewels falling out
Finally a watched not photographed and filmed at 10:10. Refreshing
What is going on with this watch?! There are so many QC problems with it. There are so many specks of dust, hairs and debris all over the crystal or in the watch. The prong off the jewel on the balance. Scratching on the case. 😢
Is the cap stone spring on the balance wheel only fully seated on one side on this watch, or is there something wrong with my eyes?
I would love a Behrens Rotary but I’m afraid of sending it round the world for service
The Pioneer was Valentin Remontet, a french watchmaker. He had the lightest watch at 16.9 grams.
This is not only really cool, but for the price, it's amazing. Great watch.
Quite an interesting watch. Not for me though, the trapecoidal case messes with my head quite badly. Regular poligons all the way, please! but other than that, it is quite impressive. A very nice proposal hands down. Andrew, you are a master! The video is hilarious!
that 20G looks fantastic, nice design!
OH O the incabloc is literally open at @5:43 you can tell this is a prototype !
This is a phenomenal achievement. This looks incredible and the fact the design is so novel and in house even more impressive at the price point.
As a note though the concentricity of the balance is not great as seen at 8:45. So the accuracy is likely less than great. But the design is still very impressive.
That loose spring on the shock mount is killing me.
As always a wonderful video but alas another watch or two I could never afford. How about adding some nice AMW marked straps to the shop, I could buy a couple and feel good putting them on watches I have managed to purchase 😁
It needs some proper design to make it readable. Also, making strap replacement difficult is not a good choice. I get it’s a prototype, but it needs more thought and improvement. Can we call this the Ri Cho Mil?
"Something like this for less than £15,000" How about the Christopher Ward X - skeletonized and in titanium no less, but not 11 grams - but under £4,000. But i like the Behrens.
My tipping point: 100m waterproof and 3k or less. I hope to see it soon, lovely stuff! Finally something REALLY NEW AND INTERESTING!
“Pause the tape now”…🤣
The balance capstone tab is half set as such the accuracy could be compromised
3:52 The balance cap jewel retention clip is half unclipped. Guess the QC needs reviewing...
Very cool watch. Swiss need knocking off their perch so all for this!
I love it. Hopefully somebody comes up with something like it that I can afford!
I would pay $2k - I like it, but not willing to pay $8k-10k
Is this a bid?
If they accept it, you may be in more trouble than you thought.
@@michaelbedford8017 lemme ask the wife, she said no lol 🤣 she wants a bidet toilet
Hmm. For £6k, I'd expect the lyre spring atop the balance to be properly installed Behrens (around 5 mins 40 ).
First to say love the channel 🙂 I think I want one, a bit like something you want but not sure why and no amount of logic can dissuade you otherwise you can't possibly do without it , at least for a while. It's remarkable engineering and pretty too, a poke in the eye to other brands maybe
The shock spring over the cap jewel is not properly set. One of the two sides is out. Time 5:45
Did everyone notice jewel bearing keeper on the flywheel was only half way seated, with one end sprung open?
Is the cap jewel spring not seated properly there?
That's a nice watch, I think well worth the tag price. I have a Chinese made chronograph by Sugess and I love it! I don't have to hold it dear, it's a great beat around mechanical chronograph!
Love any mention of The Bulls. Liked.
If that rubber is reliable, are you suggesting an alternative place to wear this watch?
As long as the quality control is a bit better and it is fully assembled correctly. Also looked as if a few of the bridges had chips of base metal showing through. It's a shame as it is innovative and i do like watches that look different. While they will never have the snob value of a European brand, the chinese do release some nice pieces.
So this is weird, I usually hate gimmick watches. But I absolutely love this because it's cool but also tells the time and actually wearable. Hate the strap, but the watch is pretty awesome.
Another great video; I'm a fan of your highly entertaining and balanced commentary. Watches [and the industry] has definitely changed for the better with more companies like Behrens and Christopher Ward delivering amazing time pieces at more affordable prices. We'll all benefit if more higher quality movements and watches come out of China and around the world; the more options, the better for us watch lovers!
Its a beautiful Watch. HOWEVER, minute mark 5:39 shows a close up of one of the jewels with one of the clamp arms not set on the left side.
Let me know if the company would like represent the watch during public gatherings. I'm well accomplished. Good video but maybe a new video after the correction. ❤
I think that there's some second hand function on that big circle up top.
How are the Chinese factories able to make this watch at such a low price?
Are there copies available in the horological markets of Guangzhou yet?
Please can you do a video on how this miniaturization tech is impacting adjacent products such as hobo coins.
Anyone else notice the cap jewel spring is half in half out? Dont put it on a time grapher... Still, very cool watch
i wouldn’t touch that watch with a 6 foot pole, however, i’ve already bought a chinese watch from boderry, specifically the voyager with a white dial in titanium
Once the Chinese open dealerships, and/or offer a slick repair/return process and five year warrantys on their watches, like CW does, things will get interesting. San Martin and Pagani seem well-regarded, but are those watches built to last and perform to spec? I'm about to find out.
Did anybody notice how one of the jewel springs only had one tip engaged?
5:34 The jewel cap is not fitted correctly. With so many close-ups, how could this go unnoticed? If that's the visible issue, what might the unseen parts be like? It's cheaper than the Rolex and looks cheaper too.
Also, let's ask ourselves about how we feel about the Swiss watch industry - I can't say myself that I'm amused by their business model, pricing structure or, as you point out, concept of innovation.
Impressive watch, but that wobbling balance-wheel makes me feel dizzy.
If one accidentally caught one of these ultra-thin watches on a metal doorframe or the edge of a desk would it deform and put the gearing out of alignment? The real miracle would be exotic design and sufficiently rugged wearability.
The watch needs repair. The shock setting is out on the balance. You can see the spring sitting out.