Man I wish there were a Baldwin out here on the West Coast. I had money in hand and could not find anyone to do any work, aside from structural. This guys work is so practical, I love it.
Seeing first-hand the modifications and upgrades, I know Aeolus will take her captain as far as he will brave to go. Bravo James, good to have your expertise and guidance.
I am currently preparing my Cape Dory 27 and have installed an integral water tank, I took out the original tank and cut out the liner and probably gained 10 or 15 gallons of water storage, including the added locker forward between the chain locker and the water tank, which was completely unused space. This was great to see another CD27 and confirmed some of the things I've already done to mine. Thank you
I am working on my CD 28. Thanks for the inspiration and ideas. I want steering vane, new diesel engine, and furling jib. Just up the road from you in Charleston.
I've always loved Cape Dory designs. Unfortunately, there aren't a lot of them that go up for sale on the West Coast. It would be quite the adventure to purchase one on the East Coast and sail it home.
You might want to go via Hawaii to avoid a hard beat north from Panama. Another option would be to buy a trailer from Sail Trailers in GA and tow it home. The CD27 has 8'6" beam which is max legal width for trailering with no special permits required.
The tack jackline is a way to attach the lower luff slides to the sail so that when the sail is hoisted the jackline is tight and holding the sail against the mast. This is done to eliminate the need to pull the lower slides off the track when reefing. If removing an reinserting the slides is easy to do on your boat then it may not be worth adding the jackline because you have to spend time adjusting it when reefing. The jackline goes up to the third reef. When reefing, the jackline goes slack allowing the reef tack cringle to reach the gooseneck. You can catch glimpses of it in some of my other videos but I don't recall which one. When reefing you need to pull the slack out of the jackline and cleat it when rehoisting the halyard to ensure you have a tight luff. A cam cleat for the jackline at the mast near the gooseneck would make that easier. I did notice on this boat that there is some friction between the plastic luff slides and the track so he has to fiddle with it sometimes when they momentarily hang up. A Tides Marine track will fix that problem. Here's a discussion and sketch of the system: www.sailnet.com/threads/loose-luff-on-main-sail-questions.73598/
This one is the Forespar Mini-Galley but apparently it's been discontinued. You may find a used one pop up on ebay sometime. Here's an article showing it and some others: www.practical-sailor.com/belowdecks-amenities/galley/the-boiling-point-five-way-single-burner-galley-stove-test
Thanks to all- Always great information and shared talents! CD 27. Anyone know if a wheel to tiller conversion is possible / realistic without extensive issues ?
If it was an owner who changed it from tiller to wheel then he may have left the original shaft in place above the cockpit sole that you can reattach a bronze tiller strap/rudder cap assembly to. They are available from Spartan Marine and from Edson. It may be a simple matter to disconnect whatever wheel steering quadrant and remove the binnacle. If it was a factory install or if the owner cut the shaft down then it gets more complicated. I'll be doing this conversion soon on a Cape Dory 36.
I like CD 27 too. You can get into so many more places in a smaller boat. CD 25 is nice as well but more spartan. The main challenge for me is to find room for a hard dinghy on the deck of a smaller sailboat. Do you think your 6' dinghy would fit on CD 27 or CD 25?
I would like to build something similar to this arch on my CD 27. I believe I could get the pieces from sailrite. Is the tubing 304 or 316? Where can one have that tubing bent? I assume one piece of bent tubing is stronger than using 90 degree fittings. Certainly less points of failure at least.
The best choice is 316 and if you are going to bend it use thick walled (about .065" rather than standard .045"). You can use 304 but you may end up frequently polishing to get rid of surface rust. You can get the tubing and have it bent at any local marine canvas shop that makes dodgers. 7/8" tube is strong enough but you need to confirm if the shop has a bender die suitable for 7/8". Otherwise, use 1". Or you can assemble straight pieces of 1" or 7/8" tube with 90 degree connectors. It may be slightly more wobbly but is still strong enough. Or you can ask Sailrite to bend you the tube. They bend dodger frames so it would be similar to getting a single dodger bow with longer legs. When having anyone bend the tube check their bend radius to make sure you have flat space for the solar panel frame. Using straight pieces with 90 degree fittings will give you a wider flat panel mount surface if you need that.
I know I'm kinda late to add my two bits here but I used tubing to do my panel arch from an old Bimini frame I scavenged off a boat slated for the choppers made of 316 7/8", the arch I fashioned mounts pretty identical to the one in this video except I have a second bow and have two panels parallel with the vessel center line instead, (the back stay coming between the panels). I used (probably 304 cheap metal) stainless connectors sourced from Amazon for mounting the frame and struts that costed less than $100. I took out the set screws and drilled and ran stainless screws in their place. Much better fastening. I've been out in 20 knots sustained and 30 knot gusts and the panels seem to be fine. When I first completed the installation I had some doubts and felt like the whole system wasn't very rigid but in action it seems to perform really well. Next I intend to convert the permanent panel mounts into a quick disconnect system for fast panel removal for those pesky tornadoes and hurricanes. Good on ya mayte and fair winds!
Currently working on preparing a Hallberg/Rassy Monsun 31 for a client's planned circumnavigation and an Albin Ballad 30. I have several project videos coming soon on the Ballad.
Nice, inspiring job, as usual. I do have a question. How are the anchor cleats installed? Are they just through bolted to the deck, presumably reinforced somehow, or they have a stronger infrastructure, eventually to the hull? Thank you.
If you mean the bow mooring cleats near the windlass, they are thru-bolted to fiberglass backing plates under the deck to spread the load and are near the bulkhead that is fiberglassed to the deck so they pick up strength from that. They don't need anything more than that.
I haven't sailed on the 28 yet but because it has an extra foot in the center of the boat and more displacement you'll likely have a slightly easier motion offshore, more speed going to weather and have more space and ability to carry more gear and water. The 27 has a tiller and most of the 28s probably have wheel steering, if that matters to you. The 28 has an abbreviated counter with no lazarette locker, which means the space gained is in the center of the boat but no option for an outboard well.
@@atomvoyager Thanks that is very helpful. Your work is so practical and professional, well done! You should take another trip on your own boat and don't work so hard :-)
That's a discontinued Forespar Mini-galley. www.forespar.com/pdf/techTips/F32-Mini-Galley.pdf You might find one like this used on ebay sometime. You may not have space but I much prefer a cooker than handles a bigger pot like the Origo stoves sometimes available used on ebay. You'd need to buy the optional gimbals and potholders. If you have the potholders but no space for the gimbals then you could install it non-gimbaled and just be careful when cooking under sail. On my channel here you can see a non-gimbaled version I installed on a Catalina 22.
I noticed you swapped the furling line to starboard. That's my setup and am about to install a bow roller in the same location. Did the furler line ever mess with the geometry of the anchors final approach up the roller?
I ensure that the link plates of the furler drum assembly are long enough and that the forward furling line lead block is high enough for good anchor and rode clearance and then it has not been a problem. In general I prefer the anchor roller to starboard and the furling line to port but sometimes the angle of how the line comes off the drum and which side the UV strip on the sail is located precludes running the line to port. Also, bigger boats may already have a furling line winch to starboard in cockpit and then it's easier to leave it where it is.
Great video. I have a CD27 as well over in Long Island. How did you design that anchor roller? Can you send me some picutres of the pieces you installed? I am also thinking of installing a tack line forward of the forestay chainplate for a spin - I will keep you updated.
The bow roller is an AR-35 from Garhauer.com. For more details you can email me at the address at the bottom of the homepage at atomvoyages.com and I'll give you my phone number.
I've used Windpilot on several boats and they all worked excellent. This model is the Pacific Light. Anything bigger than a CD27 and the regular Pacific model is needed. I believe the Pacific has a slightly larger rudder for more power. The other main difference is the Pacific has an easier to use geared course control so if you can afford the extra expense, that's the one I would choose for the 27.
Hi James, I have a question about the chain locker. At the 11:44 min. frame imagine that on my boat, due to deck constrains the windlass could only be installed so that the chain pipe hole has to move aft of the locker by 6". I am designing a sort of chute (like a half pyramid upside down) to guide the rode to the locker (hope it works without piling up and jamming). What do you suggest I use that it's strong, water/mud resistant and fairly light? I am considering 6 mm plywood fiberglassed all around, 1/2" fiberglass board, 1/2" foam board fiberglassed. Thank you.
A 6" angled chute should work if it is tall and wide enough. The chain may pile up a couple times but can be knocked down by inserting the winch handle alongside the chain and wiggling it. depending on how long the chain is this sometimes needs to be done anyway even on a straight drop. If you use 8mm plywood then you only need one layer of fiberglass on the outside and 2 layers on the inside. With 6mm you may need more glass. The foam cored or solid glass board will work as well but costs more and may not be as easy to make.
By the way, you need to figure out how that chute will affect the chain locker door so that you still have good access and the hinges will work unobstructed.
@@atomvoyager Yeah... The chute is replacing the chain locker door. Originally I was thinking to attach it with three machine screws and nuts on each side. I would be able to have an access window about the size of an iPad. Another option is to install the chute with hinges on the bottom and a locking mechanism on top (I believe I saw something similar on one of your videos). I hope it's going to work, I'll test the whole system this weekend. Thanks.
@@horiapopa6341 FWIW I tried this approach before our Caribbean run - an aluminum '1/2 upside down pyramid' shape with a ~8" drop and a 10-12" downward & forward run into the deepest part of the chain locker. This was with heavier 3/8" chain. It didn't work very well because a) aluminum sheet isn't all that slick, especially after picking up bottom grit off the chain, and b) the downward run would have worked better if it was shorter and more at an angle. I took it out but do think it would have worked better if I had covered the surface of the 'chute' with a super-slick non-stick material glued on top.
I've just added an outboard well to another CD27. It does require cutting out the bulkhead at the forward end of the lazarette and moving it forward several inches. Other than that, it's not more difficult than other ones I've done. I have a video coming out soon on this that will be added to the Cape Dory 27 Playlist tab on my channel.
@@atomvoyager Thank you. I really appreciate all the info that you are sharing with sailing community. I found that to be the most invaluable education in sailboat refit and oceangoing preparation. Your shared knowledge inspired me to get a sailboat and fulfill my dream of sailing the ocean. Looking forward to seeing your new videos.
I'm in Brunswick, GA. We are booked up with work but if you have questions for DIY on this you can email me through atomvoyages.com. There's a Contact button at the bottom of the page.
I have a 1980 O'day 25, centerboard model with an outboard which I sail on the bay. I want to upgrade to a boat with an inboard diesel so that I can run the inlet comfortably and do some coastal ocean sailing with my GF. Do you think a Cape Dory 27 with an inboard diesel would be reasonable for this? You're work on this looks great, but would you recommend someone actually buy one of these old boats?
I think the CD27 is a good choice for that. Like any boat though you need to inspect the boat thoroughly before purchase to know what you're getting into. You can ask on the Cape Dory forum for specific things to check.
Cape Dory super awesome quality sailboat ⛵ solid rock boat design by Swedish Karl Alberg 👌 I m looking to buy a Cape Dory any size boat and sail solo to Cape Horn nonstop from Hawaiian islands 🏝
I don't think the weight and space for a cannister type liferaft is practical on this size boat. You could have the smallest valise type 4 person raft and stow it inside in the v-berth in port or when underway or you could bring it out and lash it under the boom aft the mast or in the cockpit footwell.
@atomvoyager I picked up the offshore Commander, it's in a large bag. Figure I'll stow it up in the vberth hoping it's not going to cause the boat to plow through waves too much. I am rather loaded since I've prepared for an extended passage of about 5,200nm as the first leg.
@@SailingSarah I might stow the 70 lb 4-person liferaft along the aft side of the v-berth with a strap to secure it to an eye strap or two screwed into the liner and top edge of bunk outboard of cushion. That way it won't slide around or have weight further forward than necessary or block access to chain locker. Another option might be vertically strapped into the walkway between aft ends of v-berth.
@@atomvoyagerso I drugged that offshore Commander life raft around for about 3 months and have since ejected it from the boat like a bad ex-wife LOL back to the drawing board haha
This one was a new one I had in stock that I bought through West Marine several years ago but yes that sounds familiar and I may have bought another one from you at some point. I have a collection of different stoves.
Who the heck would prefer a outboard well and take out the diesel?? This is crazy. The performance of the Cape Dory would be destroyed making anything but a Cape Dory.
This boat is now cruising the Bahamas with its old diesel still in place but the motor has not been trouble free. I have two other Cape Dory boats featured on this channel that we have done the outboard well conversion and sailing performance is improved over carrying a diesel and dragging a prop. Your opinion is a common one likely based on relying on the motor more than sailing skills and a lack of experience with a properly designed tilt-up outboard well. Nothing wrong with that but not every sailor values motoring performance over simplicity and sailing skills. Here is an article explaining it further: atomvoyages.com/articles/the-improved-outboard-well/
Man I wish there were a Baldwin out here on the West Coast. I had money in hand and could not find anyone to do any work, aside from structural. This guys work is so practical, I love it.
I love Cape Dory’s. It’s such a beautiful design, I can sit and look at one all day. Your work is impeccable.
Your videos motivated me to restore my own boat!
Back stay as additional solar ach support, brilliant! Can't wait for next project reveal.
I own a Bristol 27 and James Baldwin is my Guru !
Seeing first-hand the modifications and upgrades, I know Aeolus will take her captain as far as he will brave to go. Bravo James, good to have your expertise and guidance.
It was fun sailing with you and Marco the other day. Looking forward to one day going out on your boat if we get the chance.
Nice utilization of the backstay cable as a support for the solar panel arch.
Amazing work as always.
Love those CDs. Had my 36 for 16 years. Very comfortable, safe and capable.
I am currently preparing my Cape Dory 27 and have installed an integral water tank, I took out the original tank and cut out the liner and probably gained 10 or 15 gallons of water storage, including the added locker forward between the chain locker and the water tank, which was completely unused space. This was great to see another CD27 and confirmed some of the things I've already done to mine. Thank you
It's a big job to add the integral tank but very worthwhile. I've done that on numerous boats. Good to hear it worked out for you.
Some really cool features on that boat, like the whisker pole mount 14:43 and tack jackline for reefing at 12:35.
I am working on my CD 28. Thanks for the inspiration and ideas. I want steering vane, new diesel engine, and furling jib. Just up the road from you in Charleston.
Nice upgrades, CD are well build and great sea boats
Always educational watching your channel. Thank you!
I ended up buying a southern cross 28ft cutter over the cape dory think I'm goin to sail her there for a refit soon
My dream first boat. Love all the Carl Alberg designs but the CD27 is what got me into sailing
Nice job nice upgrades thanks love these CD's
I've always loved Cape Dory designs. Unfortunately, there aren't a lot of them that go up for sale on the West Coast. It would be quite the adventure to purchase one on the East Coast and sail it home.
You might want to go via Hawaii to avoid a hard beat north from Panama. Another option would be to buy a trailer from Sail Trailers in GA and tow it home. The CD27 has 8'6" beam which is max legal width for trailering with no special permits required.
I really like your videos! Great job
Nice job! 👍
Any chance you could explain the tack reef line in more detail
The tack jackline is a way to attach the lower luff slides to the sail so that when the sail is hoisted the jackline is tight and holding the sail against the mast. This is done to eliminate the need to pull the lower slides off the track when reefing. If removing an reinserting the slides is easy to do on your boat then it may not be worth adding the jackline because you have to spend time adjusting it when reefing. The jackline goes up to the third reef. When reefing, the jackline goes slack allowing the reef tack cringle to reach the gooseneck. You can catch glimpses of it in some of my other videos but I don't recall which one. When reefing you need to pull the slack out of the jackline and cleat it when rehoisting the halyard to ensure you have a tight luff. A cam cleat for the jackline at the mast near the gooseneck would make that easier. I did notice on this boat that there is some friction between the plastic luff slides and the track so he has to fiddle with it sometimes when they momentarily hang up. A Tides Marine track will fix that problem.
Here's a discussion and sketch of the system:
www.sailnet.com/threads/loose-luff-on-main-sail-questions.73598/
@@atomvoyager thank you for doing this, it looks like the solution to one of my problems
What is the gimbal bracket for the small propane stove? I need one of those ☝️
This one is the Forespar Mini-Galley but apparently it's been discontinued. You may find a used one pop up on ebay sometime. Here's an article showing it and some others:
www.practical-sailor.com/belowdecks-amenities/galley/the-boiling-point-five-way-single-burner-galley-stove-test
Thanks to all-
Always great information and shared talents!
CD 27. Anyone know if a wheel to tiller conversion is possible / realistic without extensive issues ?
If it was an owner who changed it from tiller to wheel then he may have left the original shaft in place above the cockpit sole that you can reattach a bronze tiller strap/rudder cap assembly to. They are available from Spartan Marine and from Edson. It may be a simple matter to disconnect whatever wheel steering quadrant and remove the binnacle. If it was a factory install or if the owner cut the shaft down then it gets more complicated. I'll be doing this conversion soon on a Cape Dory 36.
I like CD 27 too. You can get into so many more places in a smaller boat. CD 25 is nice as well but more spartan. The main challenge for me is to find room for a hard dinghy on the deck of a smaller sailboat. Do you think your 6' dinghy would fit on CD 27 or CD 25?
I think a 6' dinghy would fit forward of the mast. It might fit between dodger and mast also but you'd need to measure for that.
I would like to build something similar to this arch on my CD 27. I believe I could get the pieces from sailrite. Is the tubing 304 or 316? Where can one have that tubing bent? I assume one piece of bent tubing is stronger than using 90 degree fittings. Certainly less points of failure at least.
The best choice is 316 and if you are going to bend it use thick walled (about .065" rather than standard .045"). You can use 304 but you may end up frequently polishing to get rid of surface rust. You can get the tubing and have it bent at any local marine canvas shop that makes dodgers. 7/8" tube is strong enough but you need to confirm if the shop has a bender die suitable for 7/8". Otherwise, use 1". Or you can assemble straight pieces of 1" or 7/8" tube with 90 degree connectors. It may be slightly more wobbly but is still strong enough. Or you can ask Sailrite to bend you the tube. They bend dodger frames so it would be similar to getting a single dodger bow with longer legs. When having anyone bend the tube check their bend radius to make sure you have flat space for the solar panel frame. Using straight pieces with 90 degree fittings will give you a wider flat panel mount surface if you need that.
I know I'm kinda late to add my two bits here but I used tubing to do my panel arch from an old Bimini frame I scavenged off a boat slated for the choppers made of 316 7/8", the arch I fashioned mounts pretty identical to the one in this video except I have a second bow and have two panels parallel with the vessel center line instead, (the back stay coming between the panels). I used (probably 304 cheap metal) stainless connectors sourced from Amazon for mounting the frame and struts that costed less than $100. I took out the set screws and drilled and ran stainless screws in their place. Much better fastening. I've been out in 20 knots sustained and 30 knot gusts and the panels seem to be fine. When I first completed the installation I had some doubts and felt like the whole system wasn't very rigid but in action it seems to perform really well. Next I intend to convert the permanent panel mounts into a quick disconnect system for fast panel removal for those pesky tornadoes and hurricanes. Good on ya mayte and fair winds!
Great looking boat. What other projects are in the works?
Currently working on preparing a Hallberg/Rassy Monsun 31 for a client's planned circumnavigation and an Albin Ballad 30. I have several project videos coming soon on the Ballad.
Nice, inspiring job, as usual. I do have a question. How are the anchor cleats installed? Are they just through bolted to the deck, presumably reinforced somehow, or they have a stronger infrastructure, eventually to the hull? Thank you.
If you mean the bow mooring cleats near the windlass, they are thru-bolted to fiberglass backing plates under the deck to spread the load and are near the bulkhead that is fiberglassed to the deck so they pick up strength from that. They don't need anything more than that.
Wondering what the loading capacity would be on this boat?
Thanks for sharing
Nice job. So, for offshore long-distance would the cape dory 28 be better vs the 27? (Two people)
I haven't sailed on the 28 yet but because it has an extra foot in the center of the boat and more displacement you'll likely have a slightly easier motion offshore, more speed going to weather and have more space and ability to carry more gear and water. The 27 has a tiller and most of the 28s probably have wheel steering, if that matters to you. The 28 has an abbreviated counter with no lazarette locker, which means the space gained is in the center of the boat but no option for an outboard well.
@@atomvoyager Thanks that is very helpful. Your work is so practical and professional, well done! You should take another trip on your own boat and don't work so hard :-)
@@snakeplisken4278 That's true, I should go on another trip. Meanwhile, I'm happy to help others get underway.
Can you let me know where to find a similar stove setup? Have a CD25 I'd like to put one in. Fantastic videos!
That's a discontinued Forespar Mini-galley. www.forespar.com/pdf/techTips/F32-Mini-Galley.pdf
You might find one like this used on ebay sometime. You may not have space but I much prefer a cooker than handles a bigger pot like the Origo stoves sometimes available used on ebay. You'd need to buy the optional gimbals and potholders. If you have the potholders but no space for the gimbals then you could install it non-gimbaled and just be careful when cooking under sail. On my channel here you can see a non-gimbaled version I installed on a Catalina 22.
I noticed you swapped the furling line to starboard. That's my setup and am about to install a bow roller in the same location. Did the furler line ever mess with the geometry of the anchors final approach up the roller?
I ensure that the link plates of the furler drum assembly are long enough and that the forward furling line lead block is high enough for good anchor and rode clearance and then it has not been a problem. In general I prefer the anchor roller to starboard and the furling line to port but sometimes the angle of how the line comes off the drum and which side the UV strip on the sail is located precludes running the line to port. Also, bigger boats may already have a furling line winch to starboard in cockpit and then it's easier to leave it where it is.
Great video. I have a CD27 as well over in Long Island. How did you design that anchor roller? Can you send me some picutres of the pieces you installed?
I am also thinking of installing a tack line forward of the forestay chainplate for a spin - I will keep you updated.
The bow roller is an AR-35 from Garhauer.com. For more details you can email me at the address at the bottom of the homepage at atomvoyages.com and I'll give you my phone number.
Mr. Baldwin - what do you think of the WindPilot? I'm slowly prepping my CD27 for some blue water sailing and shopping for a windvane. Thanks!
I've used Windpilot on several boats and they all worked excellent. This model is the Pacific Light. Anything bigger than a CD27 and the regular Pacific model is needed. I believe the Pacific has a slightly larger rudder for more power. The other main difference is the Pacific has an easier to use geared course control so if you can afford the extra expense, that's the one I would choose for the 27.
@@atomvoyager Thank you!
Hi James, I have a question about the chain locker. At the 11:44 min. frame imagine that on my boat, due to deck constrains the windlass could only be installed so that the chain pipe hole has to move aft of the locker by 6". I am designing a sort of chute (like a half pyramid upside down) to guide the rode to the locker (hope it works without piling up and jamming). What do you suggest I use that it's strong, water/mud resistant and fairly light? I am considering 6 mm plywood fiberglassed all around, 1/2" fiberglass board, 1/2" foam board fiberglassed. Thank you.
A 6" angled chute should work if it is tall and wide enough. The chain may pile up a couple times but can be knocked down by inserting the winch handle alongside the chain and wiggling it. depending on how long the chain is this sometimes needs to be done anyway even on a straight drop. If you use 8mm plywood then you only need one layer of fiberglass on the outside and 2 layers on the inside. With 6mm you may need more glass. The foam cored or solid glass board will work as well but costs more and may not be as easy to make.
By the way, you need to figure out how that chute will affect the chain locker door so that you still have good access and the hinges will work unobstructed.
@@atomvoyager Yeah... The chute is replacing the chain locker door. Originally I was thinking to attach it with three machine screws and nuts on each side. I would be able to have an access window about the size of an iPad. Another option is to install the chute with hinges on the bottom and a locking mechanism on top (I believe I saw something similar on one of your videos). I hope it's going to work, I'll test the whole system this weekend. Thanks.
@@horiapopa6341 FWIW I tried this approach before our Caribbean run - an aluminum '1/2 upside down pyramid' shape with a ~8" drop and a 10-12" downward & forward run into the deepest part of the chain locker. This was with heavier 3/8" chain. It didn't work very well because a) aluminum sheet isn't all that slick, especially after picking up bottom grit off the chain, and b) the downward run would have worked better if it was shorter and more at an angle. I took it out but do think it would have worked better if I had covered the surface of the 'chute' with a super-slick non-stick material glued on top.
Was that solar arch 1 inch stainless? Thank you
Yes
Hi James. Thank you for all your videos. How hard would it be to convert CD27 to outboard engine. Would it require to enlarge aft lazarette?
I've just added an outboard well to another CD27. It does require cutting out the bulkhead at the forward end of the lazarette and moving it forward several inches. Other than that, it's not more difficult than other ones I've done. I have a video coming out soon on this that will be added to the Cape Dory 27 Playlist tab on my channel.
@@atomvoyager Thank you. I really appreciate all the info that you are sharing with sailing community. I found that to be the most invaluable education in sailboat refit and oceangoing preparation. Your shared knowledge inspired me to get a sailboat and fulfill my dream of sailing the ocean. Looking forward to seeing your new videos.
Nice work,I have a simiar repair need on my bow. Where are you located?
I'm in Brunswick, GA. We are booked up with work but if you have questions for DIY on this you can email me through atomvoyages.com. There's a Contact button at the bottom of the page.
Nice work . Where are you located?….
Brunswick, GA
I have a 1980 O'day 25, centerboard model with an outboard which I sail on the bay. I want to upgrade to a boat with an inboard diesel so that I can run the inlet comfortably and do some coastal ocean sailing with my GF. Do you think a Cape Dory 27 with an inboard diesel would be reasonable for this? You're work on this looks great, but would you recommend someone actually buy one of these old boats?
I think the CD27 is a good choice for that. Like any boat though you need to inspect the boat thoroughly before purchase to know what you're getting into. You can ask on the Cape Dory forum for specific things to check.
Cape Dory super awesome quality sailboat ⛵ solid rock boat design by Swedish Karl Alberg 👌 I m looking to buy a Cape Dory any size boat and sail solo to Cape Horn nonstop from Hawaiian islands 🏝
Where would I mount a life raft on this boat?
I don't think the weight and space for a cannister type liferaft is practical on this size boat. You could have the smallest valise type 4 person raft and stow it inside in the v-berth in port or when underway or you could bring it out and lash it under the boom aft the mast or in the cockpit footwell.
@atomvoyager I picked up the offshore Commander, it's in a large bag. Figure I'll stow it up in the vberth hoping it's not going to cause the boat to plow through waves too much. I am rather loaded since I've prepared for an extended passage of about 5,200nm as the first leg.
@@SailingSarah I might stow the 70 lb 4-person liferaft along the aft side of the v-berth with a strap to secure it to an eye strap or two screwed into the liner and top edge of bunk outboard of cushion. That way it won't slide around or have weight further forward than necessary or block access to chain locker. Another option might be vertically strapped into the walkway between aft ends of v-berth.
@@atomvoyagerso I drugged that offshore Commander life raft around for about 3 months and have since ejected it from the boat like a bad ex-wife LOL back to the drawing board haha
Are you the guy that had a lovely Mason 33 for sale a few years back?
Not me.
I think you bought the gimbal propane unit from me on ebay. I tossed in that pot. How ironic:)
Hi Maritime Tees, can you share this product ? I need one of these gimballed stoves.
@@mikebikboy they do not make them anymore. That came off a previous boat i owned. Our new vessel has a gimbal stove so i didn't need it.
@@mikebikboy this is the actual name of unit. Forespar Gimbal One Burner Propane Stove
@@maritimetees2315 Thanks a lot for the info, I appreciate it!
This one was a new one I had in stock that I bought through West Marine several years ago but yes that sounds familiar and I may have bought another one from you at some point. I have a collection of different stoves.
Who the heck would prefer a outboard well and take out the diesel?? This is crazy. The performance of the Cape Dory would be destroyed making anything but a Cape Dory.
This boat is now cruising the Bahamas with its old diesel still in place but the motor has not been trouble free. I have two other Cape Dory boats featured on this channel that we have done the outboard well conversion and sailing performance is improved over carrying a diesel and dragging a prop. Your opinion is a common one likely based on relying on the motor more than sailing skills and a lack of experience with a properly designed tilt-up outboard well. Nothing wrong with that but not every sailor values motoring performance over simplicity and sailing skills. Here is an article explaining it further: atomvoyages.com/articles/the-improved-outboard-well/