Bushcraft Blade Grind, The Definitive Guide
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
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There are many knives out there on the market and all those blades come with varying types of grinds, intended for specific applications, purposes, or uses. Today we are breaking down the five most common grinds you will find on bushcraft, survival, and camp knives. We will also discuss the pro and cons of each grind and the intended application of each grind
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Nice job in your presentation regarding this subject. The verbiage of this video is probably the clearest & most "common man" explanation of any content that I've seen on any UA-cam channel so far. At 72, I've digested much content trying to educate myself to make better purchasing decisions in this genre. Keep up the good work.
thanks for your channel. I live in Norway and your channel and similar pros and cons connects with my life of style. Keep up the good work my man. And of course you are always welcome to try Norwegian landscape and your are always welcome to Norway.
I like a scandi for wood carving and a full flat for everything else . I also like a nice thin hollow grind for skinning knives .
😊thanks for sharing. Happy New Year
Excellent overview on knife blade grinds. Make a video on knife sheaths. Which do you prefer for your area and why? Most people prefer Kydex or leather and dismiss Nylon sheaths.
Another excellent video. I actually learned a lot by watching this one.
Great vid very simple way of explaining it good job man keep up the good work
Great informative video. Thanks for sharing brother
Solid video, thank you
Very helpful: thank you!
Comments: 2:46 This is a common criticism, and partly valid. Of course everything depends on the diameter of the grinding wheel. What I mean is; if you use a 10 inch wheel your grind will be much deeper than if you use a 20 inch wheel, and thus a much thinner blade near and behind the cutting edge. With a 20 inch wheel your grind will be so shallow it ends up very much like a Scandi grind (but very slightly hollowed. In this case it is not much weaker, by definition. A lot depends for what purpose the knife is intended. Seep hollow grind (as you mentioned) are much better for meat processing . slicing and cutting, but not for chopping. Agreed. 7:10 Convex grind: tough, and robust. However, in the field, a nightmare to sharpen. This is usually done in the workshop! 7:43 No, No, No! Flat grind and sabre grind are NOT the same. That knife is a sabre grind. The flat grind is ground all the way up to the back of the knife. Big difference. The sabre grind goes up to somewhere before the back, some high some low, commonly about halfway up. 10:57 That's the definition of a sabre grind, not a flat grind. 14:54 Scandi grind: "Biggest advantage is ease of sharpening" I still cannot understand your reasoning. There is a side straight, the curved grind to sharpen with complex angles to deal with, in the field, with minimal equipment. How can that possibly be easier than a quick strop of the secondary bevel to put on an edge? (Remember a Scandi does not have a secondary bevel, by definition!). A skilled knifemaking professional may be able to do it, but an amateur user is more likely to do damage, or at the very least put on a secondary bevel that will require a lot of work to remove. Cannot agree with your statement on this point. Sounds more like a Marketing ploy to me. Sorry, but it is what it is. 16:39 Yet you don't recommend a hollow ground knife for skinning and meat processing? This is their primary purpose!
Excellent discussion of the pros and cons of the various grinds. I personally lean towards the sabre/flat grind, convex and Scandi in that order. If I'm out there intentionally I'll have an axe and saw for the heavy wood processing, so the advantage that the Scandi has there is somewhat redundant.
It would be nice if you would stop using the euphemism "natural resource processing" or "resource processing". Somehow, I don't think that you're actually talking about refining petroleum or smelting aluminum, but I don't really know what you ARE talking about.
Love you're videos! Some B role would be nice tho. Keep it up!!!
Good break down but close ups of all the knives while you are explaining the differences would have been helpful.
Just subbed. Enjoy the videos. I like your choice of topics and such. You asked for comments... I'm not sure how I feel about the "boys and girls" thing. I'm a grown man and that kinda doesn't sit right. Maybe I'm just not your target demographic... Just a thought.
My thoughts exactly! I really enjoy the videos and find them very helpful. And for me as well, the ‘boys and girls’ doesn’t come across in a complimentary fashion.
By the way, I have a lot of appreciation for the fixed blades of Chis Reeve as well. I have the Professional Soldier (a skeleton back-up knife) which is one of my most used and highest quality neckers.
I think a behind the edge measurement needs to be made before a hollow grind would be weaker. If you look at the new SRK SK5 it has a much lower start of the bevel. So by using a hollow grind it could actually be thicker behind the edge than the older Saber grind SRKs I agree that the heat treat could be trickier with it going thick to thin so fast, but I've seen a lot of SRK videos where they say it's weaker but ignore how much more metal is now down the sides on the new SRKs. All the best as always.
The sk5 SRK's are hardened way too high Rockwell, they are very brittle especially in cold temperature, and tend to chip with impacts. The hollow grind makes the TIP weaker and Many people are breaking the tips off of the new version. The older high saber flat ones have a lot more steel behind the edge, and tip. I have an original Carbon V model and I rough-test compared it side by side with a new sk5 hollow grind one, the new version is nowhere near as strong.
@@MB-jg4tr I agree about the tip. I filed mine down at an angle to get rid of it having so much leverage against itself. I live in the mountains of NC so extreme cold isn't much of an issue very often and I know I have seen this channel, myself and a lot of others beat them up hard and they have survived so far. I have an original Carbon V also and when I looked at them side by side, the thickness of the overall stock where it comes from the top down to where the hollow grind starts is much thicker on the new ones, the points are too. Instead of making a false edge, it has a false or no edge with a flat top.. My point is that yes it may seem to be thinner behind the edge, but it is far thicker as an overall bar of steel. The knife doesn't know what the knife is shaped like if the edge areas are the same thickness. But yeah the Rockwell would. But if the Rockwell is the same then the new would be tougher because of all that extra bar stock. I think there are also manufacturing hardness inconsistencies in a $45 knife that can happen but also a broken tip doesn't mean a useless knife either. I lived for 40 years and until YT videos started the one tool option craze 5 minutes ago, knives with none of the modern expectations were handed down generation's by serious outdoorsmen with no problems. When I see broken tips it usually because they stab it in some hard wood and start prying side to side. We would have gotten our head knocked off for that kind of dumb lol. If you want edge retention it is hard, if you want durability it needs to be softer, if you want both that is easy, fork out the money lol. So far I've split knotty twisted wood for the fire pit for 3 years with mine and never had a problem but I've had plenty of knives that weren't up to snuff when others by the same brand were. All the best.
@@redfishsurvival1413 I hear what you're saying. Yeah these young these inexperienced mall ninja's sure do some stupid sheet with knives these days. SRK is impossible to beat for the price for a tactical sharpened crowbar, but I'd much rather have an old Dexter Russell 4215 for almost all usage, and it's half the price.
@@MB-jg4tr mall ninjas lol