recently did mine on my 62, and not even three weeks later, drivers side began leaking. I had to go back and do all over again. You are correct in that cleanliness is very important. The smaller oring on mine was also smashed. I think it is really important to get the torque settings as close as possible. Great tip, Thanks!
Add rubber grease to the o ring and on the washer this will stop friction heat build up which will damage the rubber. Also a little rtv silcone on the gaskets will help seal ;)
I’ve read a few articles, on this subject. Many conflicting ways to do these gaskets. I’ve seen the j bugs video, and they do it the way I did it. I’ve seen people omit the entire gasket. I’ve seen it done many ways. My issue is the bracket being 25 thousands too thick. That gasket is about 2 thousands which is negligible to the thickness of the bracket. I will make a video addressing the issue with the empi bracket. Maybe I’ll try one on each side, I got a. Few laying around. Thanks.
Hoping you can help me diagnose a problem..I bought a 68 beetle that has a disc conversion on the front brakes..when i drive it for the first drive of the day my brakes work fine but after a few miles it feels like i am riding the brakes and the car actually slows down in 4th gear and will come to a slow stop when you push in the clutch..After the brakes cool off then everything is fine until i drive it a few miles then it happens again..possible bad calipers do you think ?
Your problem is when you added the plate for the disc brakes. Your seal doesn't ride in the correct position on the spacer. Use sealer on the paper gaskets, not silicone .
recently did mine on my 62, and not even three weeks later, drivers side began leaking. I had to go back and do all over again. You are correct in that cleanliness is very important. The smaller oring on mine was also smashed. I think it is really important to get the torque settings as close as possible. Great tip, Thanks!
Add rubber grease to the o ring and on the washer this will stop friction heat build up which will damage the rubber. Also a little rtv silcone on the gaskets will help seal ;)
I believe you have to put one square gasket on each side of the caliper bracket, not 2 on the outer side. 5:32
I’ve read a few articles, on this subject. Many conflicting ways to do these gaskets. I’ve seen the j bugs video, and they do it the way I did it. I’ve seen people omit the entire gasket. I’ve seen it done many ways. My issue is the bracket being 25 thousands too thick. That gasket is about 2 thousands which is negligible to the thickness of the bracket. I will make a video addressing the issue with the empi bracket. Maybe I’ll try one on each side, I got a. Few laying around. Thanks.
I noticed that also only one gasket on each side. I also use a small amount of gasket sealant on the paper gasket to keep it in place.
Thanks for sharing
Hoping you can help me diagnose a problem..I bought a 68 beetle that has a disc conversion on the front brakes..when i drive it for the first drive of the day my brakes work fine but after a few miles it feels like i am riding the brakes and the car actually slows down in 4th gear and will come to a slow stop when you push in the clutch..After the brakes cool off then everything is fine until i drive it a few miles then it happens again..possible bad calipers do you think ?
Cool video. Just subbed to your channel . Keep up the great job
That for this video, I thought I'd have to remove the transaxle on my 59 bug. Only started leaking when I put the car on jack stands 😮.
Looks like you’re running the cheaper brake backing bracket. I would upgrade to the forged bracket. It doesn’t flex.
What brake conversion kit do you use ?
Any ideas if the spacer is stuck onto the axle?
Apply heat to it.
Your problem is when you added the plate for the disc brakes. Your seal doesn't ride in the correct position on the spacer. Use sealer on the paper gaskets, not silicone .
Most leak due to pinching the seal upon install.
Maybe you shouldn't hot rod it, lose the lame background music too!