If you buy today's gear through my affiliate links, you can have Sony autofocus with human colours. Thank you for your Bitcoin donations :) bc1qacvd72s9565hpat4jueeultha3qvrv4kznyl3f Fuji XH2s amzn.to/3Z5jHLt Fuji 35mm f1.4 amzn.to/4fMRe2Q Canon C70 amzn.to/3OiOa2H All my gear and recommended products can be found in my affiliate shop, thanks for shopping around! www.amazon.com/shop/vegetablepolice
Always enjoy your vids... Always beyond entertaining and informative... Shot canon for over 20 years... then "canon and fuji" and been full on fuji with many different body since 2018... consistent white balance with any system "can" sometimes be a challenge depending on the lens/body/brand combo... I started using Expodisc years and years ago... (i think there up to version 3)... To custom white bal on Fuji's is sooooo insanly simple with it... and dang Expo disc it takes like "a few seconds from scene to scene if condtiions change to dial it in... sometimes minor tweeks in post... but typically... nothing to be done... bottom line you might give one a try some time... I have found it an invaluable tool from the old days of carrying around a bag full of gray cards, and color checker wallets etc... Last bunch of years... Expo disc is in my pocket used at every shoot.... Cheerz...
As much Im a fuji fanboy, i was part of those absolutely annoyed and heavily criticizing people on fujirumors trying to shut down people complaining about the AF issue, I’m glad they finally did something, not perfect but still, welcome back Fuji :)
Do you specifically want accurate colors? Light the scene using neutral lighting (around 4000K), shoot the color checker (one specifically made for video) then light the scene how you want it to look. When you go to grading, check that all colors on the color checker fall within their chromaticity coordinates using a mask and the vectorscope. This scope also has a Skin Tone Line you can use to check your skintones. If you start with a certain lighting setup like bright reds, then that will most likely spill on any white paper or grey card you use. A color picker can't compensate for the added reds thus leading to other false colors. Korro Films has a very good tutorial using the Calibrite ColorChecker for video.
Finally someone praises the 35mm F1.4. It has a slow focus indeed, but I really love its character. That' one of my fav on the Fuji range. Another one is the 90mm F2, also always neglected, but man, beautiful, razor-sharp pictures and ultra-quiet, and precise focus,
I like having the small lights in the background during AF tests. It is *really* obvious when the focus changes. You can see that when you approach the camera and the AF tracks, the lights blur more due to the decreased depth of field. And when the AF pulses, you can see it in the lights easily.
As a Fuji owner I agree their modern lenses are juxtaposed against their philosophy. The 'filmsims' die a lot when given flat perfect edge to corner IQ glass. The filmsim message is better delivered on something vintage, something planar, something 'flawed'. Why give grain as an in camera feature but have zero distorting lenses, zero vignette. I'm not saying bad glass is better, I'm just pointing out the relationship between the two vantage points contradicts. Go find some talented Fuji owner using vintage glass with the system and the results are always so much more impressive. Fuji, you need an 'Art' line.
The reds are so much better in F-Log2C. More accurate, denser and far less luminance. Nostalgic Neg looked like vomit lol, but I will say it can be nice for outdoor photography.
Kasey unless the whole project is in a wide color space then the color picker will not be color space aware meaning that it will only use non HDR values and provide incorrect results. If this is the case then set the project settings into a Davinci wide gamut intermediate color space. Otherwise it may be an issue with the color picker in general in which case the easiest way to white balance is by using a 'Chromatic Adaptation' node and setting the Source as the cameras color temperature and the Target as the predicted scene temperature.
That's never going to happen. If Kasey was willing to do that, then he could adjust mid/detail and blur-sharpen settings so that he didn't look like he shot it on a 40 year old VHS camcorder.
You do have to partly forgive him though since HDR especially how Fuji does it without an optical low pass does murder any footage if you treat it like other cameras workflow. The guys quest for the cinema didn't account for the fact that 'cinema style' cameras are hostile to the average user not willing to look through documentation.
Love the rant about the new lenses. I’m a photographer and I have an xt4, 16 1.4, 18 f2 and the 35 1.4. I have zero interest in the new lenses and 40mp sensor.
I'm going to recommend a cardinal sin: use Fuji's auto-white balance modes. 14 years of shooting digital Fuji, and I realized that they act almost exactly like my Fuji and Minolta point-and-shoots from the 1980's. I think it's intentional and part of Fuji's creative appeal for some shooters. Auto White Balance (White Priority): Unnatural looking, but your whites are pure white. Auto White Balance (Ambience Priority): Basically what your eye sees. The most natural. Auto White Balance: Somewhere between the two. Experiment with it. Decide to trust the sensor and processor. Good vibes only. Otherwise it won't work.
@4:01 Printer paper has different levels of bleach and varies in how warm or cool it is. To custom white balance your camera, you should use your Spyder grey 18% grey card after you set your lights. That's what Davinci uses as reference. In a perfectly neutral image, the grey card should look like a white line on the Davinci scope, where the red, green, and blue are all exactly the same level. If perfectly exposed, the 18% grey should be at 41 IRE (or 41%) on the scope. Also, pretty much all colorists told me to use the Offset wheel to touch up the white balance, instead of Tint and Temp.
The 6K open gate format probably looks great for macro shots needing lots of texture and detail…. As far as white paneling with a crinkle sheet of white paper: that will work fine for the camera’s white balance, but once you bring the footage into Resolve and select the white balance eyedropper, the software has a lot of different tones to consider within that crinkled sheet, there are lighter tones darker tones, and since it’s crinkled, it will reflect slight color variations from different light sources bouncing at different angles into camera. You would probably get better results using your grey card, just need a much larger target when you’re far away from camera…. Also when you hold up any grey card, always wobble it a little bit in all directions so you can choose the best frame with the white balance tool, as sometimes you get weird color casts from different angles…..
100% agree with your 35mm 1.4 OG take. I have both the 35 1.4 and the 33 1.4 with the H2s. I remember ‘upgrading’ to the 33 thinking this is going to be the perfect lens for video now and dammit the 35 just can’t be beat. Works well enough with an off camera audio setup for sure
I usually just set my white balance to fluorescent indoors. I've tried the 18% gray card once and didn't really see a difference from setting my RP to "sunny." I prefer the F-Log in 4K. The F-Log2C appears to lower the shadows. The autofocus seems better in F-Log2C. They both look fine.
F-Log 2 C should fix your beet face complaints as the extended color magic is primarily noticeable in how it renders reds. The AF seems at least on par with Canon.
The white balance problem indoors may be caused by multiple light sources of different spectra, where the angle you hold the gray/white chart affects the outcome.
@@cameraconspiracies I see two different light sources right off the bat. You probably have a third off-camera light to your right. Remember that little Ulanzi I-Light, in the affiliate links down-below? That little thing on 50% power changes the lighting and color balance pretty drastically in a dark room. Of course I have better cameras and lenses than yours so naturally I immediately get better results.
Fuji somehow messed up the space between yellow and orange in f-log2 c, it looks neon green to me now, tested both davinci and final cut, so it's either the lut is wrong or there is some bug at work
Your white balance nightmares are partly because as far as i can see you have at least three different illuminants in the shot: red in the back, tungsten bulbs, and white as your key light. If you want to balance for your key light, you need to light your key light evenly, and in the spot where your face is going to be. If not you may get red light bouncing onto it and throwing things off. On top of whatever fuji does. Just put the grey card in front of your face, and make sure the patch you sample is lit from the key light. Outside you're lit by the sun, so it's not the wb nightmare scenario you've created indoors.
@cameraconspiracies it's hard to tell, but it seems like you put the grey card on your left, on the side of your face that is more in the shadow, but maybe it's fine. Just a couple thoughts: - light bounces around. If you have many lights, it is likely more difficult to control, because the highlights of your face may be lit by one illuminant, the shadows by another. - white balance makes neutrals neutral. There's a myriad of combinations of the red green and blue channels that will do that, while your face may look funny. You can have neutral white, grey and black, and a pink face depending on the balance of the three channels. Primaries and printer lights are your friends in resolve.
The Fuji xh2s exhibit a lot of IR pollution in the image. A good IR Pollution filter will help reduce the magenta cast you see on Fuji. Try it; you'll get a much better result on the white balance.
white balance in camera works best with an evenly lit grey card imo and if u truly want to check/correct how off your wb is in post, davinci has an option to tell you the exact RBG value of the area you’re clicking/hovering over so you can pick the most neutral spot in the image, and ironically enough the white balance slider in davinci is probably the least efficient way to correct white balance imo (especially if you’re not in raw or log) i would use a serial node with the gamma set to linear and use the colours inside of the gain wheel to correct any tricky white balance issues.
LOL, if you think the AF is janky with the 35, the 56 is a whole level of pain worse. It hunts so bad with still photography that I only use it with posed and stationary subjects. The IQ is wonderful which is why I keep it, but the AF is ... painful 😮
they grey card is more accurate because at 18% grey, it is much less reflective than the white, which can catch stray colors/reflections/casts from other light sources
Oh, Kasey. Your cyclical love affairs with Fuji crack me up. I loved mine for so many years but had to move as my priorities changed and Fooj didn't meet them. They still have a special place in my heart though, like a girlfriend you broke up with but are still fond of.
So, now when Fuji has fixed it's AF issues, the moment of trying medium format cameras for vloging is back on track again. Looking forward to see GFX 100 ii footage in your junior one bedroom apartement doing its UA-cam thing.
Your white balance is off in davinci because Fuji most likely is shifting colours when applying that preset so the 100% white is not white after the preset but it was when setting up the WB in camera. My guess is that you shouldn't override the white balance afterwards if you are not using RAW
F-Log2C Reduces clipping in color channels, gives better recovery in highlights, and more extreme grading options without the image falling apart into banding & artifacts. Whether c-log, F-log or anything similar, it isn't ideal in low light. Its 10 bit 4:2:2 Open Gate with up to 14 stops. Definitely a video camera.
Fuji is tempting, but Nikon has been hitting it out of the park this past year. Red LUT's, AF is great now, and Nikon's color science has always been top tier. Just need them to make a full frame Z30 style with all the Z6iii features and you may have your perfect camera!
I’ve never owned a camera but I’ve been interested in purchasing one because my smartphone camera has let me down . Which Nikon camera would you recommend for a normie that will only carry the camera around during travel or special occasions but yearns high quality photography?
@@Jowurel if you don't need a viewfinder and high framerate video for slowmotion, z30 will do u good with a fast prime lens. Others can suggest better option if there is any
@@Jowurel z50ii is better than z30. AF system of the z6iii. OR if you wanna straight ou jump for full frame, Canon R8 is the safest bet, because its the cheapest and does good photo/video, has the R6II sensor
TL;DR: STD NEG film, DR100, H-1, S-1, AUTO WB B-2,R+1, Color Sat +1, expo comp depends on the scene. If clipping highlights / too much contrast, H-2 and / or DR200. If indoors OR low light, S-2. Long answer: In my experience, the STD NEG film simulation with DR100, Highlight -1, Shadow -1 works best for representing what I see outside in daylight. If the contrast is too great, I move it to DR200 and/or make Highlights -2. Indoors and with low light ( like the scene you filmed yourself ), I get better results with Shadow -2 otherwise every shadow is pitch black. EXPO COMP is +2/3 or +1 on bright scenes, -2/3 for dark/night indoor scenes, usually. Regarding white balance (Still on STD NEG), you leave it on AUTO and put some ajustment that feels right for you on screen. I usually put Blue -2, R+1, for a bit warmer look. The colors won't be "exact as you see", but they will look good. Fuji seems to be conservative in super warm/cold lighting and their AUTO is more neutral. Color correction to look exact may result in a super warm / cold images later on the final image, idk if it's worth going for. Color Saturation is a matter of taste, in STD NEG I usually set it to +1. The other Film Simulation that worked for me INDOORS and LOW LIGHT is ETERNA, but eterna makes people look a bit too red for my eyes. The other film simulations are too contrasty for me, doesn't look right for video. Hope this helps.
The autofocus update now brings it in line with the gh6. Flog2c definitely helps the reds and oranges. I think the xh2s is still too sharp out of camera. I think for wb just use the grey card inside for custom wb in camera and don't adjust it later.
Reala Ace pushes the frame green which really shows up in your skin tone highlights. Flog2 C I’m sure is more flexible in post but on my phone after UA-cam compression it’s hard to comment. Looking online the theoretical color space is huge but that’s dependent on available bit depth, codec, and processing. The full benefit probably won’t be realized until the Eterna Film Camera comes to market. And the autofocus? That seems to behave worse than the prior firmware. Face recognition was very slow.
Well it only took a year, but it looks like they finally fixed what they broke lol... not that I ever really had to deal with it only shooting the X-S10, but it does restore my faith in the company a bit. I do think kaizen is dead though. FLog2c is interesting as well, and would like to see some outdoor testing with it! But I have said Fuji is for the photographers before... not that I don't shoot video on my X-S10 and Fuji is very explicitly a hybrid system, there are video focused series like the X-H2, and they're even breaking into cine cameras now with a rebodied GFX. But every system has their strengths and weaknesses. Like if someone wanted to explicitly shoot video, needed to rely of AF, etc., Fuji would never be my first suggestion. I think it shines a photography system, and video just feels like a bonus, for now.
Dude I have a 5yo child and the only lens I can use on my xt4 with somehow usable AF is the 33mm f1.4. Don't know why that is, but it's backed by experience. I prefer a video with less focus breathing vs. "vintage 3D Pop" image quality anytime.😊
Nice video. I would like to see you compare the 33 and the 35, just to drive your point home. I have seen some amazing footage with the 33 but it's autofocus is trash.
According Fujirumors, Fuji has stated that "We’ve been working on X-T5, X-S20 and other models as well, to release the firmware within this year for improved user experience"
@@Michael-fw5ef, X-T50 already has better AF than X-5, X-S20 and so on. We don't know if it has the same AF or not, but Fuji will definitely update it to the latest in the next few months.
That's a very bad / unfortunate Lighting situation at all, to see different and compare Color Profiles sadly.. Mixed with bad CRI Led-Lights from the side and all over the place.
@@cameraconspiracies hey my Friend:) unfortunately these lights often have a green tint instead, i had it and i see it from miles away. Would be cool if you repeat the really interesting profile comparison in Daylight. Cheers
Being that I only buy products with the number 5 in the branding (R5c, xt5), I also only buy lens with 5’s. Clearly my next lens is the 56mm and maybe the 30mm (which is spiritually a 50mm, so I’m ok with that.
***** white balance **** What is the Kelvin of your main light on your face? That is what you set the white balance to. 3800, 5200 which is it? The light bulbs behind you don’t and color of the wall is also because of their kelvin color. Daylight is 5400. Your main light hitting your face is what you balance to. Your welcome. :) Oh also, you said the white balance outside is perfect …yep, one light source, Gods light. Inside mixed light is the devils funny joke on you. 😂 Love your vids!
Now fuji just needs a battery extension simulation and they will be neck and neck with the big boys. Plz make one for kneecon as well if you're listening, mitsubishi.
NEVER do any white balance adjustments in post if you didn't shoot RAW. You're shifting the colors around instead of white balancing. infact if you shoot any kind of internal footage, get it right on set.
Its interesting to me how ever since I watched your video on the Panny Boy G9 Mark II - your youtube feed always comes to the top when I enter the UA-cam world! So strange and I have to try very hard to not laugh out loud when watching...
Місяць тому
Yo ! Ton gilet est orange ou rouge ? Je ne suis pas un expert non plus mais j'ai toujours eu de bon résultat avec le custom WB sur un carré gris. Je ne dis pas que tu es dans l'erreur pour autant.
1. AF looking great 2. I would def subscribe to that tiktok dance channel 3. flog 2c looks a bit better, but not big difference here, everything is just red, lights, shirt.... :D 4. I dont like any film sim look, maybe eterna only, I never liked astia, classic negative only for photos. 5. I dont know what white balance is more precise but I like the one custom mode from camera more than davinci fix. Thanks for the video
In my opinion, you have to start with the lighting. If you really want to judge the color of your camera system use tungsten and run it at the right voltage. You'll find that presets work the best, as this is how they developed their look, intentionally or just by accident. Color Balance is for mixed and/or non photographic lights; which populate the world. Some cameras are better than others for mixed light, like the LEICA SL's. So when you are forced to White Balance because you're in mixed light or your photo lights are shit, like most LED's and HMI's, you're already in the world of compromise. Obviously you want to balance to whats lighting the face, knowing that everything else is wrong, and yes a gray card is better because it has no color. The white paper reflects the color of the source more, especially if it's shiny. Matte targets are best. But in reality this is somewhat moot. For your use scenario of shooting talking head shots in a controlled lighting studio environment, do as exactly you're doing; be subjective (not objective) and please yourself. This is essentially the best advice ever offered a creative person, and you do a great service sharing your experiences
ok, the concern now is that we are hoping Fuji doesn't fawk up the firmware going forward. They did it before so it can happen again. my xh2s is going to be on anti depression pills at this rate lol.
6 days left until The Locksmith(TM) runs out of pre-recorded videos. Unless he chops them up into smaller ones. We should see in a few more days. Free Kasey! Though I kinda would like to see those raccoon lockpicking contests, those guys don't even really need picks, it's incredible.
If you buy today's gear through my affiliate links, you can have Sony autofocus with human colours.
Thank you for your Bitcoin donations :) bc1qacvd72s9565hpat4jueeultha3qvrv4kznyl3f
Fuji XH2s amzn.to/3Z5jHLt
Fuji 35mm f1.4 amzn.to/4fMRe2Q
Canon C70 amzn.to/3OiOa2H
All my gear and recommended products can be found in my affiliate shop, thanks for shopping around! www.amazon.com/shop/vegetablepolice
Always enjoy your vids... Always beyond entertaining and informative... Shot canon for over 20 years... then "canon and fuji" and been full on fuji with many different body since 2018... consistent white balance with any system "can" sometimes be a challenge depending on the lens/body/brand combo... I started using Expodisc years and years ago... (i think there up to version 3)... To custom white bal on Fuji's is sooooo insanly simple with it... and dang Expo disc it takes like "a few seconds from scene to scene if condtiions change to dial it in... sometimes minor tweeks in post... but typically... nothing to be done... bottom line you might give one a try some time... I have found it an invaluable tool from the old days of carrying around a bag full of gray cards, and color checker wallets etc... Last bunch of years... Expo disc is in my pocket used at every shoot.... Cheerz...
Came for the new firmware test. stayed for the passive aggression and abuse
Main reason I keep coming back
😆😆😆
As much Im a fuji fanboy, i was part of those absolutely annoyed and heavily criticizing people on fujirumors trying to shut down people complaining about the AF issue, I’m glad they finally did something, not perfect but still, welcome back Fuji :)
Do you specifically want accurate colors? Light the scene using neutral lighting (around 4000K), shoot the color checker (one specifically made for video) then light the scene how you want it to look. When you go to grading, check that all colors on the color checker fall within their chromaticity coordinates using a mask and the vectorscope. This scope also has a Skin Tone Line you can use to check your skintones.
If you start with a certain lighting setup like bright reds, then that will most likely spill on any white paper or grey card you use. A color picker can't compensate for the added reds thus leading to other false colors.
Korro Films has a very good tutorial using the Calibrite ColorChecker for video.
wow good stuff! do you have a tutorial on this?
@misterabroad123 I don't but there are plenty available. DSLR Video Shooter has one that's very simple and straight forward.
Finally someone praises the 35mm F1.4. It has a slow focus indeed, but I really love its character. That' one of my fav on the Fuji range. Another one is the 90mm F2, also always neglected, but man, beautiful, razor-sharp pictures and ultra-quiet, and precise focus,
There's less pulsing and hunting. Definitely an improvement.
Fujibros assemble! We are so back
What you mean? According to y'all fuji fixed the AF like 20 firmware versions ago.
@@SunGee-db3ypyeah well, it works now pal.
Assembleeeeee
🔥🔥🦾🦾
@@suba7320 I never left!
🤘😎🤘
I like having the small lights in the background during AF tests. It is *really* obvious when the focus changes. You can see that when you approach the camera and the AF tracks, the lights blur more due to the decreased depth of field. And when the AF pulses, you can see it in the lights easily.
Man ... i pause my laptop, order some food, back again, and i see you with a new video ... 😂
Each episode of yours feel like movie ! So entertaining
😂
As a Fuji owner I agree their modern lenses are juxtaposed against their philosophy. The 'filmsims' die a lot when given flat perfect edge to corner IQ glass. The filmsim message is better delivered on something vintage, something planar, something 'flawed'. Why give grain as an in camera feature but have zero distorting lenses, zero vignette. I'm not saying bad glass is better, I'm just pointing out the relationship between the two vantage points contradicts.
Go find some talented Fuji owner using vintage glass with the system and the results are always so much more impressive.
Fuji, you need an 'Art' line.
This is a very good point, totally agree.
The reds are so much better in F-Log2C. More accurate, denser and far less luminance. Nostalgic Neg looked like vomit lol, but I will say it can be nice for outdoor photography.
Kasey unless the whole project is in a wide color space then the color picker will not be color space aware meaning that it will only use non HDR values and provide incorrect results. If this is the case then set the project settings into a Davinci wide gamut intermediate color space. Otherwise it may be an issue with the color picker in general in which case the easiest way to white balance is by using a 'Chromatic Adaptation' node and setting the Source as the cameras color temperature and the Target as the predicted scene temperature.
That's never going to happen. If Kasey was willing to do that, then he could adjust mid/detail and blur-sharpen settings so that he didn't look like he shot it on a 40 year old VHS camcorder.
You do have to partly forgive him though since HDR especially how Fuji does it without an optical low pass does murder any footage if you treat it like other cameras workflow. The guys quest for the cinema didn't account for the fact that 'cinema style' cameras are hostile to the average user not willing to look through documentation.
I didn't understand any of that )
Love the rant about the new lenses. I’m a photographer and I have an xt4, 16 1.4, 18 f2 and the 35 1.4. I have zero interest in the new lenses and 40mp sensor.
I'm going to recommend a cardinal sin: use Fuji's auto-white balance modes. 14 years of shooting digital Fuji, and I realized that they act almost exactly like my Fuji and Minolta point-and-shoots from the 1980's. I think it's intentional and part of Fuji's creative appeal for some shooters.
Auto White Balance (White Priority): Unnatural looking, but your whites are pure white.
Auto White Balance (Ambience Priority): Basically what your eye sees. The most natural.
Auto White Balance: Somewhere between the two.
Experiment with it. Decide to trust the sensor and processor. Good vibes only. Otherwise it won't work.
Thank you. Will try it out. I have struggled a bit to get a consistent white balance in some of my custom film sim recipes.
Do that if you want very inconsistent results.
This actually a good advice, I use AWB 90% of time in photo mode. Any idea how to lock AWB settings for video clips?
always watch you for the comedy, it's entertaining as always.... love it!!!
@4:01 Printer paper has different levels of bleach and varies in how warm or cool it is. To custom white balance your camera, you should use your Spyder grey 18% grey card after you set your lights. That's what Davinci uses as reference. In a perfectly neutral image, the grey card should look like a white line on the Davinci scope, where the red, green, and blue are all exactly the same level. If perfectly exposed, the 18% grey should be at 41 IRE (or 41%) on the scope. Also, pretty much all colorists told me to use the Offset wheel to touch up the white balance, instead of Tint and Temp.
Hands down one of your most important videos. Some actual facts and advcice.
I like my Viltorx Fuji lens a lot, the 27 mm is one of my favorite
man, I love my 23mm f1.4. I want 13mm and 27mm too.
@ I have the 13 mm too but I have try it out yet
The 6K open gate format probably looks great for macro shots needing lots of texture and detail….
As far as white paneling with a crinkle sheet of white paper: that will work fine for the camera’s white balance, but once you bring the footage into Resolve and select the white balance eyedropper, the software has a lot of different tones to consider within that crinkled sheet, there are lighter tones darker tones, and since it’s crinkled, it will reflect slight color variations from different light sources bouncing at different angles into camera. You would probably get better results using your grey card, just need a much larger target when you’re far away from camera…. Also when you hold up any grey card, always wobble it a little bit in all directions so you can choose the best frame with the white balance tool, as sometimes you get weird color casts from different angles…..
That 8:10 kept me laughing for way longer than I'd expect.
Lmao same😂
Nothing but facts!! Outside, fuji colors are stellar. I struggle getting good colors inside with my xh2s.
wow fuji really makes you look glorious! it's like you're in a movie i absolutely have to buy one!
The funky "3D pop"
"hunts more smoothly" 🤣🤣
I must agree, the 18 f1.4 gave me more missed focus photos than the 16 f1.4
100% agree with your 35mm 1.4 OG take. I have both the 35 1.4 and the 33 1.4 with the H2s. I remember ‘upgrading’ to the 33 thinking this is going to be the perfect lens for video now and dammit the 35 just can’t be beat. Works well enough with an off camera audio setup for sure
what a rollercoaster the last few videos on Fuji
I usually just set my white balance to fluorescent indoors. I've tried the 18% gray card once and didn't really see a difference from setting my RP to "sunny." I prefer the F-Log in 4K. The F-Log2C appears to lower the shadows. The autofocus seems better in F-Log2C. They both look fine.
Personally I’m happy with the AF update. My use is mostly travel and street.
F-Log 2 C should fix your beet face complaints as the extended color magic is primarily noticeable in how it renders reds. The AF seems at least on par with Canon.
Best review of all the fuge, stuff that doesn’t make sense 👌
I updated the firmware on my X-H2's and it is way more sticky than it was before the update! Good going Fujifilm!
The white balance problem indoors may be caused by multiple light sources of different spectra, where the angle you hold the gray/white chart affects the outcome.
There's only 1 light.
@@cameraconspiracies I see two different light sources right off the bat. You probably have a third off-camera light to your right. Remember that little Ulanzi I-Light, in the affiliate links down-below? That little thing on 50% power changes the lighting and color balance pretty drastically in a dark room. Of course I have better cameras and lenses than yours so naturally I immediately get better results.
@@IO470N There is the tube light behind me set to the same kelvins.
Its kind of pointless to do WB in lets say a nightclub, just set to the middle
Fuji somehow messed up the space between yellow and orange in f-log2 c, it looks neon green to me now, tested both davinci and final cut, so it's either the lut is wrong or there is some bug at work
Your white balance nightmares are partly because as far as i can see you have at least three different illuminants in the shot: red in the back, tungsten bulbs, and white as your key light. If you want to balance for your key light, you need to light your key light evenly, and in the spot where your face is going to be. If not you may get red light bouncing onto it and throwing things off. On top of whatever fuji does. Just put the grey card in front of your face, and make sure the patch you sample is lit from the key light.
Outside you're lit by the sun, so it's not the wb nightmare scenario you've created indoors.
That's exactly what I do, the other lights are behind me and wouldn't effect the shot.
@cameraconspiracies it's hard to tell, but it seems like you put the grey card on your left, on the side of your face that is more in the shadow, but maybe it's fine.
Just a couple thoughts:
- light bounces around. If you have many lights, it is likely more difficult to control, because the highlights of your face may be lit by one illuminant, the shadows by another.
- white balance makes neutrals neutral. There's a myriad of combinations of the red green and blue channels that will do that, while your face may look funny. You can have neutral white, grey and black, and a pink face depending on the balance of the three channels. Primaries and printer lights are your friends in resolve.
The Fuji xh2s exhibit a lot of IR pollution in the image. A good IR Pollution filter will help reduce the magenta cast you see on Fuji. Try it; you'll get a much better result on the white balance.
Olympus has the best white balance of any camera brand. And you can set a custom button to quickly set the white balance by taking a picture.
I don't know, the OM1 colors always looked off to me, but that may be more due to color science than the WB
This is first time when Fuji AF is not the protagonist of the show and the viewers don't ask the question - was this a Fuji camera.
Actually I’m impressed with that AF in your video and new FLog2C is decent too!
white balance in camera works best with an evenly lit grey card imo and if u truly want to check/correct how off your wb is in post, davinci has an option to tell you the exact RBG value of the area you’re clicking/hovering over so you can pick the most neutral spot in the image,
and ironically enough the white balance slider in davinci is probably the least efficient way to correct white balance imo (especially if you’re not in raw or log) i would use a serial node with the gamma set to linear and use the colours inside of the gain wheel to correct any tricky white balance issues.
Love my 35mm 1.4 but oh boy is autofocus janky on the XT4.
Might actually nab an old, used 56mm 1.2 R after your rant🤔
LOL, if you think the AF is janky with the 35, the 56 is a whole level of pain worse. It hunts so bad with still photography that I only use it with posed and stationary subjects. The IQ is wonderful which is why I keep it, but the AF is ... painful 😮
they grey card is more accurate because at 18% grey, it is much less reflective than the white, which can catch stray colors/reflections/casts from other light sources
Will the locksmith be doing your videos from now on? This is getting interesting!
Oh, Kasey. Your cyclical love affairs with Fuji crack me up. I loved mine for so many years but had to move as my priorities changed and Fooj didn't meet them. They still have a special place in my heart though, like a girlfriend you broke up with but are still fond of.
Shoot a SMPTE color bar chart and use a vector scope in-camera (that the Fuji lacks) is the best way to ensure good color.
So, now when Fuji has fixed it's AF issues, the moment of trying medium format cameras for vloging is back on track again. Looking forward to see GFX 100 ii footage in your junior one bedroom apartement doing its UA-cam thing.
Hilarious video. As always. Didn’t really address the questions in the title though haha.
Have you tried setting WB to 5500-5600K indoors too? It should work well if you use daylight-balanced lights
Your white balance is off in davinci because Fuji most likely is shifting colours when applying that preset so the 100% white is not white after the preset but it was when setting up the WB in camera. My guess is that you shouldn't override the white balance afterwards if you are not using RAW
F-Log2C Reduces clipping in color channels, gives better recovery in highlights, and more extreme grading options without the image falling apart into banding & artifacts. Whether c-log, F-log or anything similar, it isn't ideal in low light. Its 10 bit 4:2:2 Open Gate with up to 14 stops. Definitely a video camera.
Fuji is tempting, but Nikon has been hitting it out of the park this past year. Red LUT's, AF is great now, and Nikon's color science has always been top tier. Just need them to make a full frame Z30 style with all the Z6iii features and you may have your perfect camera!
I’ve never owned a camera but I’ve been interested in purchasing one because my smartphone camera has let me down . Which Nikon camera would you recommend for a normie that will only carry the camera around during travel or special occasions but yearns high quality photography?
@@Jowurel if you don't need a viewfinder and high framerate video for slowmotion, z30 will do u good with a fast prime lens.
Others can suggest better option if there is any
@@Jowurel z50ii is better than z30. AF system of the z6iii. OR if you wanna straight ou jump for full frame, Canon R8 is the safest bet, because its the cheapest and does good photo/video, has the R6II sensor
Looking forward to testing the 56 mm apd lens with firmware 7.10… hoping it won’t be slow as shit to focus, and then hunt 99% of the time.
F-Log2C looking a little better to me. The AF seems to be behaving itself too.
You were really good as "Mr Pizza Guy" in Fast Times at Ridgemont High
Looks a lot better to be honest.
Back in the Game, Players!
Just wait till it breaks again...
@@ickebins6948 Damn, continuous mode in stills is sh&$^t.
😂😅😂 Oh boy... That was the best video rant thing I can remember on your channel. And I follow that since around 10 msec. after the big-bang...
Astia looks really good wish I can have it on my sony a6700
You can tweak anything you want in cameras picture profile or creative look. I’ve got better results than I ever expected. I do not miss Fuji at all.
@michaelajoseph6856 true, I do shoot slog3 maybe there is some lut out there
TL;DR: STD NEG film, DR100, H-1, S-1, AUTO WB B-2,R+1, Color Sat +1, expo comp depends on the scene. If clipping highlights / too much contrast, H-2 and / or DR200. If indoors OR low light, S-2. Long answer: In my experience, the STD NEG film simulation with DR100, Highlight -1, Shadow -1 works best for representing what I see outside in daylight. If the contrast is too great, I move it to DR200 and/or make Highlights -2. Indoors and with low light ( like the scene you filmed yourself ), I get better results with Shadow -2 otherwise every shadow is pitch black. EXPO COMP is +2/3 or +1 on bright scenes, -2/3 for dark/night indoor scenes, usually. Regarding white balance (Still on STD NEG), you leave it on AUTO and put some ajustment that feels right for you on screen. I usually put Blue -2, R+1, for a bit warmer look. The colors won't be "exact as you see", but they will look good. Fuji seems to be conservative in super warm/cold lighting and their AUTO is more neutral. Color correction to look exact may result in a super warm / cold images later on the final image, idk if it's worth going for. Color Saturation is a matter of taste, in STD NEG I usually set it to +1. The other Film Simulation that worked for me INDOORS and LOW LIGHT is ETERNA, but eterna makes people look a bit too red for my eyes. The other film simulations are too contrasty for me, doesn't look right for video. Hope this helps.
don't s-curve my mom 😭
The autofocus update now brings it in line with the gh6. Flog2c definitely helps the reds and oranges. I think the xh2s is still too sharp out of camera. I think for wb just use the grey card inside for custom wb in camera and don't adjust it later.
Can you do wildlife AF test ?please
You should give the xf60 a whirl. Autofocus is slow and noisy so brace yourself for that but the magic and pop is of the scale.
Love that lens. Never tried it for video though, mainly because of the auto focus speed and noise. Likes to hunt too.
😂 it was completely worth watching to the end. You have to leave little Easter eggs in each video about the locksmith stalker.
I love fujison industries - I got married there
This actually looks pretty acceptable ...
I love Fuji... Fuji, Fuji, Fuji!!!
Reala Ace pushes the frame green which really shows up in your skin tone highlights. Flog2 C I’m sure is more flexible in post but on my phone after UA-cam compression it’s hard to comment. Looking online the theoretical color space is huge but that’s dependent on available bit depth, codec, and processing. The full benefit probably won’t be realized until the Eterna Film Camera comes to market. And the autofocus? That seems to behave worse than the prior firmware. Face recognition was very slow.
Lights behind are still pulsing like always with Fuji.
fujis glowing eye bags are scary 😭
Demon LUT is still best if you are going for radioactive look
Can’t watch other UA-camrs without hearing the “Crab people” song from South Park now.
Well it only took a year, but it looks like they finally fixed what they broke lol... not that I ever really had to deal with it only shooting the X-S10, but it does restore my faith in the company a bit. I do think kaizen is dead though. FLog2c is interesting as well, and would like to see some outdoor testing with it!
But I have said Fuji is for the photographers before... not that I don't shoot video on my X-S10 and Fuji is very explicitly a hybrid system, there are video focused series like the X-H2, and they're even breaking into cine cameras now with a rebodied GFX. But every system has their strengths and weaknesses. Like if someone wanted to explicitly shoot video, needed to rely of AF, etc., Fuji would never be my first suggestion. I think it shines a photography system, and video just feels like a bonus, for now.
Dude I have a 5yo child and the only lens I can use on my xt4 with somehow usable AF is the 33mm f1.4. Don't know why that is, but it's backed by experience. I prefer a video with less focus breathing vs. "vintage 3D Pop" image quality anytime.😊
Nice video. I would like to see you compare the 33 and the 35, just to drive your point home.
I have seen some amazing footage with the 33 but it's autofocus is trash.
Which Fuji cameras are eligible for the AF upgrade?
All of them, or just the top tier ones?
XH2/XH2s/GFX line rn
@@HalbkanadischesAhornblatt So, if I buy an XT-50 for almost 2k, I don't deserve good AF? Fuji should be ashamed to do that to their customers.
According Fujirumors, Fuji has stated that "We’ve been working on X-T5, X-S20 and other models as well, to release the firmware within this year for improved user experience"
@@Michael-fw5ef, X-T50 already has better AF than X-5, X-S20 and so on. We don't know if it has the same AF or not, but Fuji will definitely update it to the latest in the next few months.
@@Michael-fw5ef enjoy what you bought! (Shh I'm coping real hard with my A7IV, worse than the A77II in so many things😭 i wanted an A99II)
Where is this update for X-t5 and x100vi???
That's a very bad / unfortunate Lighting situation at all, to see different and compare Color Profiles sadly.. Mixed with bad CRI Led-Lights from the side and all over the place.
It's two lights, both matching kelvins.
@@cameraconspiracies hey my Friend:) unfortunately these lights often have a green tint instead, i had it and i see it from miles away. Would be cool if you repeat the really interesting profile comparison in Daylight. Cheers
I have to wait for the xt5 update, but thankfully I think I can hold off on switching to Sony… for now
Being that I only buy products with the number 5 in the branding (R5c, xt5), I also only buy lens with 5’s. Clearly my next lens is the 56mm and maybe the 30mm (which is spiritually a 50mm, so I’m ok with that.
The ending is crazy 😂
***** white balance ****
What is the Kelvin of your main light on your face? That is what you set the white balance to. 3800, 5200 which is it? The light bulbs behind you don’t and color of the wall is also because of their kelvin color. Daylight is 5400.
Your main light hitting your face is what you balance to. Your welcome. :)
Oh also, you said the white balance outside is perfect …yep, one light source, Gods light. Inside mixed light is the devils funny joke on you. 😂
Love your vids!
Setting the camera to the same kelvin as the light source always looks horrible.
@ hmmmm, looks like my next video will be to test this topic. 🤘😎🤘
Now fuji just needs a battery extension simulation and they will be neck and neck with the big boys. Plz make one for kneecon as well if you're listening, mitsubishi.
NEVER do any white balance adjustments in post if you didn't shoot RAW. You're shifting the colors around instead of white balancing.
infact if you shoot any kind of internal footage, get it right on set.
Color checker passport
Its interesting to me how ever since I watched your video on the Panny Boy G9 Mark II - your youtube feed always comes to the top when I enter the UA-cam world! So strange and I have to try very hard to not laugh out loud when watching...
Yo ! Ton gilet est orange ou rouge ? Je ne suis pas un expert non plus mais j'ai toujours eu de bon résultat avec le custom WB sur un carré gris. Je ne dis pas que tu es dans l'erreur pour autant.
Not an expert with white balance but maybe wearing a red shirt with a red wall with red lights maybe wasn’t the best environment? lol
We're waiting for edvardo opinion
11:00 hahah good one
1. AF looking great
2. I would def subscribe to that tiktok dance channel
3. flog 2c looks a bit better, but not big difference here, everything is just red, lights, shirt.... :D
4. I dont like any film sim look, maybe eterna only, I never liked astia, classic negative only for photos.
5. I dont know what white balance is more precise but I like the one custom mode from camera more than davinci fix.
Thanks for the video
Fuji sony level AF? Hahaha, you are still the funniest camera youtuber :D
have you tried the 32mm 1.8 Zeiss Touit?? You need that in your life.
The horror show, Stanley Kubrick, red thinking that Christmas is a great time for a blood bath. Redrum.
In my opinion, you have to start with the lighting. If you really want to judge the color of your camera system use tungsten and run it at the right voltage. You'll find that presets work the best, as this is how they developed their look, intentionally or just by accident. Color Balance is for mixed and/or non photographic lights; which populate the world. Some cameras are better than others for mixed light, like the LEICA SL's. So when you are forced to White Balance because you're in mixed light or your photo lights are shit, like most LED's and HMI's, you're already in the world of compromise. Obviously you want to balance to whats lighting the face, knowing that everything else is wrong, and yes a gray card is better because it has no color. The white paper reflects the color of the source more, especially if it's shiny. Matte targets are best. But in reality this is somewhat moot. For your use scenario of shooting talking head shots in a controlled lighting studio environment, do as exactly you're doing; be subjective (not objective) and please yourself. This is essentially the best advice ever offered a creative person, and you do a great service sharing your experiences
Still having trouble in focusing to the subject while you're doing minimal movement like moving further and closer to the camera. s
Video 1 million on UA-cam with the subject: Fiji has fixed its AF.
ok, the concern now is that we are hoping Fuji doesn't fawk up the firmware going forward. They did it before so it can happen again. my xh2s is going to be on anti depression pills at this rate lol.
You can’t bet Fuji colors!
Dance was pretty Good tbf... 😆
6 days left until The Locksmith(TM) runs out of pre-recorded videos. Unless he chops them up into smaller ones. We should see in a few more days.
Free Kasey! Though I kinda would like to see those raccoon lockpicking contests, those guys don't even really need picks, it's incredible.