These vehicles were engineered as Sport Utility Vehicles. They were not intended for the same type of stuff Jeeps are Engineered for. Look at the base, or beginning of them. CRV=Sport Utility. Jeep=Military Scout/Recon Vehicle (also troop transport) However, they are still sport Utility Vehicles. All vehicles are for those who build or customize, "platforms". If one chooses, one can take a vehicle that was engineered as a "Sport Utility", and increase its capability. So, I think what people have been doing lately is still vehicle enthusiasm, there is still a level of support for the vehicles our Allies make. If I were to build a CRV with the intention of using it as an Adventure Vehicle. I would not go further than a 2 inch lift. They are capable in a stock configuration, but the stock type tires are very lacking. The first and main thing to do is choose an appropriate tire. When stretching capability, or using the vehicle off road, and further than typical sport Utility type of terrain, you need articulation. The Honda CRV, does have good approach, departure, and even with fairly low ground clearance, good cresting angles because its short wheel base. Its old, so it does not have the same type of sophisticated traction control as a newer awd vehicle. Luckily, they do come with limited slips in some models, there is a stock type of upgrade, and the screw type diff unit might even be a locker, so that's even better. I would look for a limited slip from a civic or accord to use in the front if a rear doesn't work. You would not have to engage or disengage. It would provide drive to the front without negatively affecting the handling. The steering off road would still be fine. I would look for long travel shocks or struts. I would keep the stock tire size, maybe plus 1, which is about half an inch lift. Same ride or close to stock ride height once you air down. With the long travel shocks or struts, and this is a little trickier, find longer and softer springs. Considering its softer, it takes more compression to get the same spring weight. So you can retain a stock ride height. But you get more articulation because the struts are long travel. So the compressed length must be the same as the stock unit, you will lose up travel is the length is not correct, so what's the point otherwise? These upgrades and mods for the CRV are still cool and useful for those that have those vehicles. Those last three paragraphs are just the way I would do it.
When you welded the first piece, you placed the grounding of the welding machine on the screw that holds the wheel. This causes the current to pass through the ball bearings of the drive axle, damaging it. You should always place the ground collection as close as possible to the area to be welded.
Starting with, you should never cut any metal that is under tension at a right or 90° angle. to avoid this you can drill a 3/8 or 1/2 inch hole and then make the cuts to meet where you drilled the hole. Even so, if the material is very thin, also add the reinforcement that you made.
did a 3" lift with no drop spacers. i notice my front coils getting sandwiched between the body and spindle under full droop. this limits my droop in the front to the equivalent of a 2"lift and makes noise when front suspension drops. i never noticed an issue with the rear other than the control arm bushing completely ripping out. ill have to check this out the next time i flex my suspension.
Nice drone shot at the end
These vehicles were engineered as Sport Utility Vehicles. They were not intended for the same type of stuff Jeeps are Engineered for. Look at the base, or beginning of them. CRV=Sport Utility.
Jeep=Military Scout/Recon Vehicle (also troop transport)
However, they are still sport Utility Vehicles. All vehicles are for those who build or customize, "platforms". If one chooses, one can take a vehicle that was engineered as a "Sport Utility", and increase its capability. So, I think what people have been doing lately is still vehicle enthusiasm, there is still a level of support for the vehicles our Allies make.
If I were to build a CRV with the intention of using it as an Adventure Vehicle. I would not go further than a 2 inch lift. They are capable in a stock configuration, but the stock type tires are very lacking. The first and main thing to do is choose an appropriate tire. When stretching capability, or using the vehicle off road, and further than typical sport Utility type of terrain, you need articulation. The Honda CRV, does have good approach, departure, and even with fairly low ground clearance, good cresting angles because its short wheel base. Its old, so it does not have the same type of sophisticated traction control as a newer awd vehicle.
Luckily, they do come with limited slips in some models, there is a stock type of upgrade, and the screw type diff unit might even be a locker, so that's even better. I would look for a limited slip from a civic or accord to use in the front if a rear doesn't work. You would not have to engage or disengage. It would provide drive to the front without negatively affecting the handling. The steering off road would still be fine.
I would look for long travel shocks or struts. I would keep the stock tire size, maybe plus 1, which is about half an inch lift. Same ride or close to stock ride height once you air down. With the long travel shocks or struts, and this is a little trickier, find longer and softer springs. Considering its softer, it takes more compression to get the same spring weight. So you can retain a stock ride height. But you get more articulation because the struts are long travel. So the compressed length must be the same as the stock unit, you will lose up travel is the length is not correct, so what's the point otherwise?
These upgrades and mods for the CRV are still cool and useful for those that have those vehicles. Those last three paragraphs are just the way I would do it.
When you welded the first piece, you placed the grounding of the welding machine on the screw that holds the wheel. This causes the current to pass through the ball bearings of the drive axle, damaging it. You should always place the ground collection as close as possible to the area to be welded.
Thanks for the tip!
Starting with, you should never cut any metal that is under tension at a right or 90° angle. to avoid this you can drill a 3/8 or 1/2 inch hole and then make the cuts to meet where you drilled the hole. Even so, if the material is very thin, also add the reinforcement that you made.
did a 3" lift with no drop spacers. i notice my front coils getting sandwiched between the body and spindle under full droop. this limits my droop in the front to the equivalent of a 2"lift and makes noise when front suspension drops. i never noticed an issue with the rear other than the control arm bushing completely ripping out. ill have to check this out the next time i flex my suspension.
The question is....Why did I not have to cut mine with a 2.5 inch spacer and you did?
Possibly because my coil overs were not oem? I’m not sure.
@@joelatwar Just find that a bit odd, my oem and non stock coils all cleared.
buddy.How u doing?, like it- top video-work~💥