Timestamps: 00:00 - Intro 01:22 - What Tools Do You Need? 02:28 - Chock Your Front Wheels and Take Off Your Rear Wheels 03:32 - Unbolt your sway bar from the lower control arm 04:00 - Loosen the nuts on the top hat of the strut from inside the boot of the vehicle 04:57 - Remove the bolt securing the strut in the lower control arm 05:50 - Unbolt your upper control arm from the trailing arm 07:12 - Remove the nuts from the top hat and remove the strut assembly from the vehicle 08:04 - Bolt the spacer to your top hat 08:40 - BUY TRAILING ARM SPACERS FOR LIFTS OVER 1.5"!!!! 09:47 - MOST IMPORTANT STEP - ROTATE YOUR TOP HAT AND AVOID DISASTER 💀💀 13:25 - Begin reinstalling the strut to the vehicle 14:08 - Finger tighten strut to shock tower in boot 14:20 - Insert LCA shock bolt to secure strut in place 14:30 - Upper Camber Arm Advice - Adjustable Camber Arms + Brackets 16:52 - Bolt up your upper control arm 18:00 - Tighten everything down lightly and reattach your sway bar end link to your lower control arm 19:30 - Put your wheel back on, lower the vehicle to the ground safely and torque under ride height - Enjoy your CR-V!
What a great upload buddy 👌 Fantastic, straight to the point, clear & sorts out the dreaded spring sag 😵 , which drives me crazy 🤪, well done buddy 👍 Nice work, nice Truck Excellent work 👏
This is by far the most informative and well presented video I have seen on lifting a crv. I want to put a lift on my 2005 crv lx and this video was extremely helpful. I am new to the world of lifting crv's or any vehicle for that matter. I picked up a 2 inch lift kit from HRGengineering that comes with 2 inch lift spacers for the back and front. It also comes with the adjustable control arms for the rear and offset camber bolts for the front. The question I have is - will i also need to install a subframe kit to lower the drive train in order to not experience any axle wobble? Or is a subframe kit necessary only if my lift was going to be higher than 2 inches? OR should i just install the 2 inch lift kit and see how that goes, and if I do experience axle wobbles, then install a subframe drop kit? Thank you.
I'm not 100% sure with the 2nd gen's but 2" is prime axle wobble territory with the 1st gens. My main worry with installing 2" without the drop kit is splitting cv boots which is just something else you'll have to replace. May not happen but honestly after replacing a tonne of stuff over the last 6 months due to not taking care of the subframe drop it had worn out plenty of my bushings and components. You could get away with it but my advice is if it's within your budget, don't cut corners, do it right and you won't have to touch again.
Good stuff!! Do you have a video about installing the trailing arm spacers? I'm in the process of lifting my cr-v and putting bigger tires. I'm running into an issue without the spacers where the the axle and rear wheels are not centered after the lift and are pushed waaaay to much to the front. Would love a video on installing those!
No sorry I don't. While they're necessary, the current designs I don't really want to show off because of few issues with how they mount and what that might do to the vehicle. A friend of mine is currently in the process of finishing up a trailing arm drop kit that I will be doing a detailed install video for that addresses our concerns with current subframe drop kits. Sorry for the reply.
Do you have any cooling issues with those tires on the road? I just bought an automatic AWD rd1 with a similar set up (minus a drive shaft 😏) and she's a dog on the road with the gearing and likes to overheat
Because it sits on top of the strut and not the spring, you can use whatever spring setup you like. Personally, I always recommend replacing your springs when lifting the vehicle, as your factory springs will likely be pretty worn out. However, you absolutely don't have to, it's just down to preference.
I recently had 2" spacers installed, however the tie rod ends aren't long enough, causing the tires to be angled. I'm looking for longer tie rod ends or extensions. Can you help? Thanks!
Don't extend your tie rods, that's not the solution. It's dangerous and will cause an accident. When lifting a vehicle with spacers, you're just adding a block between your car and your suspension at 1 point. If you look at your suspension, you'll see with the spacers in how every angles down to the bottom of the strut that the spacer is installed on. That's because where once point mounted to the body has a 2" spacer, the subframe and engine where the rest links back to is sitting right where it was. To do this properly and avoid issues like yours, you need a subframe and engine drop to correct these. This is the exact same as lifting the vehicle, however instead of doing it at the struts, we're doing it where the suspension and steering links back to the body, so all control arms and tie rods are level again. Obviously, this compromises your lift height as it lowers your engine and subframe back down, however it allows you to fit larger tyres to make back some height. Anyone who tells you you don't need a subframe drop hasn't had theirs long enough to encounter all the issues you'll face without. Why not simply extend them? As soon as you hit a bump, that suspension will travel up, which will cause the angle on those arms to level out and push away from the vehicle... You can see where I'm going here - if you extend your tie rods, as soon as you hit a bump, it'll steer the vehicle against itself and either cause major damage or an accident.
I've been running King Springs for about 2 years now. I absolutely love them, I know 3 other people running them and we all agree feels like factory and gives around 1.5" lift. As for shocks, I have Monroe shocks up front (about 80k old) and the rears and factory and in the next 6 months I'll be replacing them all with brand new Monroe gas shocks
King Springs, they make a 1.5"ish lift for the 1st gen that rides like factory but has a progressive spring rate so doesn't bottom out as easily with weight.
Hey guys, I have a 1997 CRV RD1. I have been having a lot of noises coming from the front when driving into potholes and turning. Any recommendations on what to check and do?
Could be a lot of things. Sway bar bushings are the first thing to check. Is it riding rough/bumpy/bouncy? Check your shocks. Do you feel the knock almost like its at the wheel? Check your control arms and your steering links. Do you feel it mainly in the steering wheel? Definitely check your steering. Lots of things to check. Hope this helps.
I just ordered tema 4x4 40mm OR 1 1/2 INCH strut spacers for my 06 highlander/kluger.. took it to Toyota. They won't do it. They claim to say its gonna have problems. If its the 4runner. It's a different story. (BULLSHIT.....) its just a 1 1/2 inch spacer. Its its a 3 inch. I'd agree.
I got a 2000 rd1 I just fit some 20 in niche rims on it. 245/45/20 the front is good. My rear is sagging, it rubs if I hit And pot hole, and I'm thinking about doing a 1.5 inch lift in the back. I have a question about wy you rotated the top hat and would I need any other mod to the rear, or can I just fit a 1.5 spacer, stock suspension, and not rotating spring?
You have to rotate the top hat because the studs won't line up the same. You can fit a 1.5" spacer up without replacing anything, but you have to rotate the top hat or else it won't line up when you go to bolt it up
im having a hard time with the fronts!!! i bought brand new struts and when i put the spacers on the new struts and go to install them, the knuckle is like completly sideways
I’m trying to install this exact same kit but literally cannot reinstall after mounting the spacers. It seems to be impossible to get the shock to align to the bottom LCA bolt. Any tips? It seems like your CRV clears just fine.
It sounds like you didn't rotate the top hat. Have you watched the video through completely? Try bolting the shock to the LCA first, if your studs on your spacer dont align, your top hat isn't rotated correctly.
@@isakjetbean thanks for the reply. I did rotate the top hat. It just seems nearly impossible to get enough space for the top studs of the shock to fit back in. However, I just noticed you also unbolted the camber arms to get it to fit. Should that give me enough space?
@@DJ-pt7fd Yep, so there are a few things limiting articulation on the trailing arm, the camber arm being the main one. If I don't disconnect my camber arm I have to use a pry-bar and it feels awful haha
Depends what you're going for, but for offroad the preference is 1st or 2nd gen. I went for the 1st gen because I believe it made less compromises on space, interior felt better and the rear hatch is much nice. First gen seems to do better with it's ground clearance and angles too, though they're pretty damn similar. Second gen has more power, and can handle bigger tyres easier, but it's really down to preference.
Older video, but I must compliment you on your excellent presentation. Very thorough and concise without any un-needed blabber.
Timestamps:
00:00 - Intro
01:22 - What Tools Do You Need?
02:28 - Chock Your Front Wheels and Take Off Your Rear Wheels
03:32 - Unbolt your sway bar from the lower control arm
04:00 - Loosen the nuts on the top hat of the strut from inside the boot of the vehicle
04:57 - Remove the bolt securing the strut in the lower control arm
05:50 - Unbolt your upper control arm from the trailing arm
07:12 - Remove the nuts from the top hat and remove the strut assembly from the vehicle
08:04 - Bolt the spacer to your top hat
08:40 - BUY TRAILING ARM SPACERS FOR LIFTS OVER 1.5"!!!!
09:47 - MOST IMPORTANT STEP - ROTATE YOUR TOP HAT AND AVOID DISASTER 💀💀
13:25 - Begin reinstalling the strut to the vehicle
14:08 - Finger tighten strut to shock tower in boot
14:20 - Insert LCA shock bolt to secure strut in place
14:30 - Upper Camber Arm Advice - Adjustable Camber Arms + Brackets
16:52 - Bolt up your upper control arm
18:00 - Tighten everything down lightly and reattach your sway bar end link to your lower control arm
19:30 - Put your wheel back on, lower the vehicle to the ground safely and torque under ride height - Enjoy your CR-V!
What a great upload buddy 👌
Fantastic, straight to the point, clear & sorts out the dreaded spring sag 😵 , which drives me crazy 🤪, well done buddy 👍
Nice work, nice Truck
Excellent work 👏
Cheers mate really appreciate the kind words
Thanks so much for this man, helped me a lot!
You deserve way more subs! Amazing video buddy!
Thanks for your sharing knowledge 👍
This is by far the most informative and well presented video I have seen on lifting a crv. I want to put a lift on my 2005 crv lx and this video was extremely helpful. I am new to the world of lifting crv's or any vehicle for that matter. I picked up a 2 inch lift kit from HRGengineering that comes with 2 inch lift spacers for the back and front. It also comes with the adjustable control arms for the rear and offset camber bolts for the front. The question I have is - will i also need to install a subframe kit to lower the drive train in order to not experience any axle wobble? Or is a subframe kit necessary only if my lift was going to be higher than 2 inches? OR should i just install the 2 inch lift kit and see how that goes, and if I do experience axle wobbles, then install a subframe drop kit? Thank you.
I'm not 100% sure with the 2nd gen's but 2" is prime axle wobble territory with the 1st gens.
My main worry with installing 2" without the drop kit is splitting cv boots which is just something else you'll have to replace. May not happen but honestly after replacing a tonne of stuff over the last 6 months due to not taking care of the subframe drop it had worn out plenty of my bushings and components.
You could get away with it but my advice is if it's within your budget, don't cut corners, do it right and you won't have to touch again.
@@isakjetbean Super helpful. I'll take your advice. Really appreciate your input. Take care.
how is your crv now? is using spacers safe in the long run?
@@cefvelasco7200 I still have my '05 CRV with the HRG 2 inch lift kit and 1 inch subframe drop kit. 2 years in and no issues with the kit so far.
Good stuff!! Do you have a video about installing the trailing arm spacers? I'm in the process of lifting my cr-v and putting bigger tires. I'm running into an issue without the spacers where the the axle and rear wheels are not centered after the lift and are pushed waaaay to much to the front. Would love a video on installing those!
No sorry I don't. While they're necessary, the current designs I don't really want to show off because of few issues with how they mount and what that might do to the vehicle.
A friend of mine is currently in the process of finishing up a trailing arm drop kit that I will be doing a detailed install video for that addresses our concerns with current subframe drop kits.
Sorry for the reply.
Hey I have a 1998 Honda CR-V and I need a lift kit where can I buy it please let me know
Hello, thank you for the video, where to find the shock absorbers? compatible with a 2001 147ch crv? THANKS
Keep up with the nice content man!!!
Thank you! Much appreciated 🙏🏻
isak.jetbean hey I need a lift kit for my 1998 Honda CR-V so I can put some mud tires on and I do where to buy them can you please let me know
isak.jetbean I literally can’t find one anywhere at all
I see that you didn't cut off your plastic fender out. What size tire are you running on now with that lift spacer?
I've been running the same tyres since I fit my original lift setup and they're 235/75/15s, I'm moving up to 31s which is why I"m lifting more!
Do you have any cooling issues with those tires on the road? I just bought an automatic AWD rd1 with a similar set up (minus a drive shaft 😏) and she's a dog on the road with the gearing and likes to overheat
@@clobberbusters Nah, I'm running a stock radiator and never even hits halfway on my temp gauge. However, I'm driving a manual so that probably helps.
@@isakjetbean how much lift do I need for 235 75 15 and where can you get the lift kit I live in Victoria thanks love your video
Hey mate in this video where you was running any spacer in the front like the rear did?
Hello..
How can I install front struts space & Rear spring Spacer on my 1996 Toyota Rav4,3s,5doors..
Any help of advice???
THANKS
Thanks
Can you use these spacers on OEM springs or you have to upgrade stiffer spring? Or softer whichever is more preferably. Thanks
Because it sits on top of the strut and not the spring, you can use whatever spring setup you like. Personally, I always recommend replacing your springs when lifting the vehicle, as your factory springs will likely be pretty worn out.
However, you absolutely don't have to, it's just down to preference.
Informasi yg sangat berguna!! Kerenn ,👍👍
Hi, how can I get the adjustable camber arms am in Lusaka, Zambia 🇿🇲
Can you send me a link where I can buy the camber arm please I going to put 3 inches in my crv 97
How big are your tires you have on
I recently had 2" spacers installed, however the tie rod ends aren't long enough, causing the tires to be angled. I'm looking for longer tie rod ends or extensions. Can you help? Thanks!
Don't extend your tie rods, that's not the solution. It's dangerous and will cause an accident.
When lifting a vehicle with spacers, you're just adding a block between your car and your suspension at 1 point.
If you look at your suspension, you'll see with the spacers in how every angles down to the bottom of the strut that the spacer is installed on. That's because where once point mounted to the body has a 2" spacer, the subframe and engine where the rest links back to is sitting right where it was.
To do this properly and avoid issues like yours, you need a subframe and engine drop to correct these. This is the exact same as lifting the vehicle, however instead of doing it at the struts, we're doing it where the suspension and steering links back to the body, so all control arms and tie rods are level again.
Obviously, this compromises your lift height as it lowers your engine and subframe back down, however it allows you to fit larger tyres to make back some height.
Anyone who tells you you don't need a subframe drop hasn't had theirs long enough to encounter all the issues you'll face without.
Why not simply extend them? As soon as you hit a bump, that suspension will travel up, which will cause the angle on those arms to level out and push away from the vehicle... You can see where I'm going here - if you extend your tie rods, as soon as you hit a bump, it'll steer the vehicle against itself and either cause major damage or an accident.
Nice what springs did you go for? Did you upgrade struts?
I've been running King Springs for about 2 years now. I absolutely love them, I know 3 other people running them and we all agree feels like factory and gives around 1.5" lift.
As for shocks, I have Monroe shocks up front (about 80k old) and the rears and factory and in the next 6 months I'll be replacing them all with brand new Monroe gas shocks
Please i know how can i order them for my car
Try doing this with a CRv that's done 15 years of British winters! 😂
Luckily Australian CR-V's are underrated so they've rarely ever seen a beach let alone snow!
imagine using a 12v electric ratchet to take off lug nuts....altho i have to say brits have nothing on the midwest us for salt roads and rust.
What kind of springs are you running? Looks gnarly
King Springs, they make a 1.5"ish lift for the 1st gen that rides like factory but has a progressive spring rate so doesn't bottom out as easily with weight.
Hey guys, I have a 1997 CRV RD1. I have been having a lot of noises coming from the front when driving into potholes and turning. Any recommendations on what to check and do?
Could be a lot of things.
Sway bar bushings are the first thing to check.
Is it riding rough/bumpy/bouncy? Check your shocks.
Do you feel the knock almost like its at the wheel? Check your control arms and your steering links.
Do you feel it mainly in the steering wheel? Definitely check your steering.
Lots of things to check. Hope this helps.
I just ordered tema 4x4 40mm OR 1 1/2 INCH strut spacers for my 06 highlander/kluger.. took it to Toyota. They won't do it. They claim to say its gonna have problems. If its the 4runner. It's a different story. (BULLSHIT.....) its just a 1 1/2 inch spacer. Its its a 3 inch. I'd agree.
Sick bro! Subbed
I got a 2000 rd1 I just fit some 20 in niche rims on it. 245/45/20 the front is good. My rear is sagging, it rubs if I hit And pot hole, and I'm thinking about doing a 1.5 inch lift in the back. I have a question about wy you rotated the top hat and would I need any other mod to the rear, or can I just fit a 1.5 spacer, stock suspension, and not rotating spring?
You have to rotate the top hat because the studs won't line up the same.
You can fit a 1.5" spacer up without replacing anything, but you have to rotate the top hat or else it won't line up when you go to bolt it up
how much lift would I need to run 31''x10.5" tires?
Your transmission will explode
im having a hard time with the fronts!!! i bought brand new struts and when i put the spacers on the new struts and go to install them, the knuckle is like completly sideways
I've got a video on how to do the front on my channel. Goes through all the tricks and challenges.
@@isakjetbean thank you so much for the fast reply!! i actually just found the video and im watching it now in hopes of it helps
I’m trying to install this exact same kit but literally cannot reinstall after mounting the spacers. It seems to be impossible to get the shock to align to the bottom LCA bolt. Any tips? It seems like your CRV clears just fine.
It sounds like you didn't rotate the top hat. Have you watched the video through completely?
Try bolting the shock to the LCA first, if your studs on your spacer dont align, your top hat isn't rotated correctly.
@@isakjetbean thanks for the reply. I did rotate the top hat. It just seems nearly impossible to get enough space for the top studs of the shock to fit back in. However, I just noticed you also unbolted the camber arms to get it to fit. Should that give me enough space?
@@DJ-pt7fd Yep, so there are a few things limiting articulation on the trailing arm, the camber arm being the main one. If I don't disconnect my camber arm I have to use a pry-bar and it feels awful haha
If I am looking to buy a CR-V is the RD1 96-01 the best generation to buy or what is the best generation to buy to mod. Thanks
Depends what you're going for, but for offroad the preference is 1st or 2nd gen. I went for the 1st gen because I believe it made less compromises on space, interior felt better and the rear hatch is much nice.
First gen seems to do better with it's ground clearance and angles too, though they're pretty damn similar.
Second gen has more power, and can handle bigger tyres easier, but it's really down to preference.
@@isakjetbean Thanks, I just bought a second gen with manual. There were only three manual trans crv's in Southern Calif. I got a 2006
Nice 👍👍👍
Where do u live mate im in brisbane ill pay u to put spacers on my 2003 crv sport let me know if ur keen
А если бы ещё по русски говорил, цены не было бы.
Dude ...great video
loose the MUSIC !!!!
Aussies and their shorts…. 😬