Loved this series on the wj, being in the UK I have 2003 wj with mercedes benz 2.7 litre turbo diesel in line five cylinder. Working my way through all these jobs shown in your videos so been a great help. October 2016 replace upper and lower track rods, (tie rods usa) no problems until last week when visiting wrexham in Wales, parked on the kerb, (side walk) full lock right turn moving slowly of the kerb an almighty bang from under the vehicle. Lost steering control completely, 😮 looked underneath to find the upper passenger side, (United Kingdom right hand drive) track rod on steering knuckle had snapped like a carrot on the bottom of the eye, we had been doing 70mph just minutes earlier, how lucky it snapped at walking pace just scares the bejesus out of me. No control at all of steering. It took a big five foot long pinch bar to move the wheels via the spokes to get it up on the kerb. Going today Friday 13th to fix it. Unlucky for some. 🤐 as any one else experienced a failure like this, I have never taken our jeep of road nor abused it over speed bumps, always going slow over them. When fitting the new track rods I did not over tighten them, just snug with adjustment either slightly tighter or loose to allow fitting of the split pin, (cotter pin usa). Hope it was just a one off, floor in the manufacturing process of the track rod which failed. Gonna take a while to get my confidence back in my jeep now, love my jeep, great towing vehicle for our 2 berth caravan. Thanks vortex garage for all your video, being British loved the triumph build too.
Thanks for the series on the WJ GC. This is a nice series with good detail. Need to replace bearing assembly and cv assemblies and found your video. I figured the ball joints would be good to replace while in there. The OTC ball joint tool sure make it look easy. Expensive tool, but looks worth it. Thanks!
G Munee Glad it was helpful and enjoyed! Thanks! And, will be posting some more WJ videos soon - next up will be motor/trans mounts and doing rear axle bearings. Thx again!
The little round seal on the flat filter must be installed into the transmission first before you install the filter. If you leave the seal on the filter and try to install it with the filter it can end up not seating correctly. This is not an option.
I've got a 2002 Stock WJ and almost no room to reach the upper three bolts. Not even close to what your video shows. I'm wondering if it's because i had backed onto ramps which kept pressure on the axle? Looks like your jack stands are on the body points.
My 96 ZJ oil pan just started weeping due to RUST, need to drop the exhaust to replace pan, what bothers me is the studs coming undone after possibly 20 years so I think I will bring to muffler shop to be sure he can loosen [torch] and make it possible for me to drop the exhaust without trouble, shop wants 650.00 but I can get a new pan and gaskets for about 100.00
For the transmission fluid, could you pump it out of the dip stick with a fluid pump to avoid part of the mess? Asking for a friend. Great Video Thanks!
No. U can buy for $30 a new pan with a plug. Check the maintenance specs also. When replacing fluid my v6 2000 wj required tranny band adjustments. Once done the power was a notable increase. My fuel efficiency increased 10.9 mpg city to 13.2 mpg. My WJ is a DD with 33” wheels
I know it's an older video, but it's better to just buy a new pan with a drain plug then just punch or drill a hole in the center of the old pan to drain.
This was an awesome series, thanks. In your view, what's the downside to using the hand pump to expel as well as fill the rear differential? The front had a drain plug. Did you remove the cover on that as well? Why bother cracking a seal if you don't have to? I get the notion of inspection, but other than that, is there a reason not to use the siphon/hand pump?
On the WJ there is no drain plug on the stock diffs. the one you saw in front was the fill port. so yup you gotta crack the covers to drain. I only used the hand pump to fill and its a great way to do it. you can install an aftermarket cover with a drain, but not worth the cost unless you are doing it to get some diff bracing from a thicker stronger cover. Thanks!!
+Vortex Garage yeah, I know there's no drain plug. I'm asking why one wouldn't put the tube of that hand pump into the fill spout on the rear diff, and PUMP the fluid out, instead of having to mess with removing the cover.
@@silkytp789 Yeah I would probably just remove the cover each time, your only doing it every 36k miles, or if you wheel it you will be doing it probably every 10-15k. Also, with the pump you won't get out all the old fluid, and if it is contaminated with water or debris, you will just be contaminating the new fluid. Lube locker does make a gasket set that is supposedly reusable up to a couple times (company does not recommend but many people claim this is possible). Most differential's have a magnet either on the bottom of the housing or on the cover themselves, if you do not remove the cover, you will not be able to get to the magnet to clean it and see if there is any excess wear. Finally, when removing the cover you can also check your gears, make sure no parts are loose, and use brake cleaner to get clean the spider gears.
I just got a 2000 wj, it was one owner before me and I don't know if they serviced the transmission before, I'm closing in on 200,000 miles. do I just let it ride? or service it?
The correct fluid is a Mopar Transfer Case fluid. Amazon carries it for 15 dollars a quart - here is a link Genuine Chrysler Accessories (5016796AC) NV 245/247/249 Transfer Case Lubricant - 1 Quart www.amazon.com/dp/B008Y791O2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_dreLwbRCH304T
Your series on the WJ is great. Just bought my first WJ it needs a lot of work. So thanks it is a very helpful series.
Loved this series on the wj, being in the UK I have 2003 wj with mercedes benz 2.7 litre turbo diesel in line five cylinder. Working my way through all these jobs shown in your videos so been a great help. October 2016 replace upper and lower track rods, (tie rods usa) no problems until last week when visiting wrexham in Wales, parked on the kerb, (side walk) full lock right turn moving slowly of the kerb an almighty bang from under the vehicle. Lost steering control completely, 😮 looked underneath to find the upper passenger side, (United Kingdom right hand drive) track rod on steering knuckle had snapped like a carrot on the bottom of the eye, we had been doing 70mph just minutes earlier, how lucky it snapped at walking pace just scares the bejesus out of me. No control at all of steering. It took a big five foot long pinch bar to move the wheels via the spokes to get it up on the kerb. Going today Friday 13th to fix it. Unlucky for some. 🤐 as any one else experienced a failure like this, I have never taken our jeep of road nor abused it over speed bumps, always going slow over them. When fitting the new track rods I did not over tighten them, just snug with adjustment either slightly tighter or loose to allow fitting of the split pin, (cotter pin usa). Hope it was just a one off, floor in the manufacturing process of the track rod which failed. Gonna take a while to get my confidence back in my jeep now, love my jeep, great towing vehicle for our 2 berth caravan. Thanks vortex garage for all your video, being British loved the triumph build too.
Protip: Always be sure you can take the fill plug off first before draining the transfer case.
Thanks for the series on the WJ GC. This is a nice series with good detail. Need to replace bearing assembly and cv assemblies and found your video. I figured the ball joints would be good to replace while in there. The OTC ball joint tool sure make it look easy. Expensive tool, but looks worth it. Thanks!
G Munee Glad it was helpful and enjoyed! Thanks! And, will be posting some more WJ videos soon - next up will be motor/trans mounts and doing rear axle bearings. Thx again!
so touching for an excellent video
great music finally LOL! I have a 2004 WJ myself, thanks for the videos! I've practically rebuild mine.
The best !!!!! Thank you !
The little round seal on the flat filter must be installed into the transmission first before you install the filter. If you leave the seal on the filter and try to install it with the filter it can end up not seating correctly. This is not an option.
That's what I thought as it wouldn't sit by itself, so I used a socket of the correct diameter to sit it properly.
Lube locker makes a reusable gasket. You don’t need rtv ever. They are sweet and work very well. And are reusable
I've got a 2002 Stock WJ and almost no room to reach the upper three bolts. Not even close to what your video shows. I'm wondering if it's because i had backed onto ramps which kept pressure on the axle? Looks like your jack stands are on the body points.
What flavor redline in diffs? 75-90? Im not sure if i need the limited slip modifier in my dana 35 rear dana 30 front 2004 grand cherokee.
My 96 ZJ oil pan just started weeping due to RUST, need to drop the exhaust to replace pan, what bothers me is the studs coming undone after possibly 20 years so I think I will bring to muffler shop to be sure he can loosen [torch] and make it possible for me to drop the exhaust without trouble, shop wants 650.00 but I can get a new pan and gaskets for about 100.00
For the transmission fluid, could you pump it out of the dip stick with a fluid pump to avoid part of the mess? Asking for a friend.
Great Video Thanks!
How you gonna' change the filter then?
No. U can buy for $30 a new pan with a plug. Check the maintenance specs also. When replacing fluid my v6 2000 wj required tranny band adjustments. Once done the power was a notable increase. My fuel efficiency increased 10.9 mpg city to 13.2 mpg. My WJ is a DD with 33” wheels
@@revolutionday1once you remove it, you go ahead and drop the pan. I ended up just dropping the pan with oil, but I've seen other people do it.
Nice video but never Install the seal onto the filter first. Always Install the seal on to valve body first.
Great video. I've done the Diffs on mine and will do NV247 trans case next then the gearbox. One question, where do you refill the gearbox oil?
thanks! The transmission gets refilled through the dipstick tube.
I know it's an older video, but it's better to just buy a new pan with a drain plug then just punch or drill a hole in the center of the old pan to drain.
Kia ora, Would you recommend redline 80w140 with friction modifier added.
This was an awesome series, thanks. In your view, what's the downside to using the hand pump to expel as well as fill the rear differential? The front had a drain plug. Did you remove the cover on that as well? Why bother cracking a seal if you don't have to? I get the notion of inspection, but other than that, is there a reason not to use the siphon/hand pump?
On the WJ there is no drain plug on the stock diffs. the one you saw in front was the fill port. so yup you gotta crack the covers to drain. I only used the hand pump to fill and its a great way to do it. you can install an aftermarket cover with a drain, but not worth the cost unless you are doing it to get some diff bracing from a thicker stronger cover. Thanks!!
+Vortex Garage yeah, I know there's no drain plug. I'm asking why one wouldn't put the tube of that hand pump into the fill spout on the rear diff, and PUMP the fluid out, instead of having to mess with removing the cover.
+Silky Tp May work and there will be a bit left. Its not bad popping the cover and lets you check the innards. But does mean stocking up on the RTV
@@silkytp789 Yeah I would probably just remove the cover each time, your only doing it every 36k miles, or if you wheel it you will be doing it probably every 10-15k. Also, with the pump you won't get out all the old fluid, and if it is contaminated with water or debris, you will just be contaminating the new fluid.
Lube locker does make a gasket set that is supposedly reusable up to a couple times (company does not recommend but many people claim this is possible).
Most differential's have a magnet either on the bottom of the housing or on the cover themselves, if you do not remove the cover, you will not be able to get to the magnet to clean it and see if there is any excess wear.
Finally, when removing the cover you can also check your gears, make sure no parts are loose, and use brake cleaner to get clean the spider gears.
Hi, what kind of oil it is recommended to pour in to WJ bridges? thank you!
I just got a 2000 wj, it was one owner before me and I don't know if they serviced the transmission before, I'm closing in on 200,000 miles. do I just let it ride? or service it?
Drop the pan and replace filter and fluid. DO NOT DO A FLUSH!
2000 WJ... how did you get to the top 3 bolts on the diff?? Did you pull the gas tank/skid plate?? I don’t have any room to get to those bolts.
I have a 97 Grand Cherokee, I had to pull the tank skid plate and tow hitch to get to my bolts.
Is the friction modifier necessary when changing the fluid on the 247 transfer case?
No. Simple use factory spec oil and u should be good. If u ever have 4wd shifting issues and have changed the fluid, do it.
as liters of fluid enters the transmission
hey, can you tell me what fluid is used in the 247 transfer case?
The correct fluid is a Mopar Transfer Case fluid. Amazon carries it for 15 dollars a quart - here is a link
Genuine Chrysler Accessories (5016796AC) NV 245/247/249 Transfer Case Lubricant - 1 Quart www.amazon.com/dp/B008Y791O2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_dreLwbRCH304T
Looks like the pinion seals are leaking
Why don’t you specify the torque specs?
how much later to change oil axle please
If u have a WJ, I’m assuming 150,000+ miles, at least every 35,000. If u are running larger wheels with same diff, 25,000.
Can never hear what you guys on these videos are saying because of the music playing.
so touching for an excellent video