I haven't commented before but have watched (& rewatched!) all of your WJ videos - great information and outstanding presentation - THANK YOU for all of the effort that goes into this channel.
What a great step by step video. I appreciate the time you took on making the video. Especially like the tips and advice on removing the seal. Also will have to take a look at my vent tube and the rubber plug tomorrow morning just in case that may be the culprit. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video for us.
For those wanting to know about the rubber grommet - (Mopar Part No 5018919AA) Also known as a snap ring access plug - took me forever to find. Hope someone finds this useful.
my concern was by the T case where there is also a slight movement up and down on the rear output (rear driveshaft going straight to the rear diff) and all of this the car is on the ground no jacks and in park is this normal? Because I have a clunk everytime I go to reverse and especially on drive and also when reversing and braking quickly the front axle moves forward and reverse ( the front calipers move alot as well) I've been inspecting and have really nothing except for the upper control arm under the driver side (it's right hand drive) having alot of play but the lowers have no play
Hi I have some movement from rear output shaft from the NV247 T case and slight movement on the rear diff on the drive shaft Its definitely not the U joints is this normal? Or is my drivetrain gone
@@VortexGarage I have that by the rear diff and by the the t case but my concern was by the T case where there is also a slight movement up and down on the rear output (rear driveshaft going straight to the rear diff) and all of this the car is on the ground no jacks and in park is this normal? Because I have a clunk everytime I go to reverse and now everytime I go to drive and when reversing and braking the front axle moves forward and reverse ( the front calipers move alot as well)
Contact Tom Woods Drivelines. They make the special yoke needed for the transfer case end of the front driveline. Then you can use the front driveline off an XJ or WJ, just confirm length and u-joint size.
Totally agree - I remember back doing this, was trying to show an alternative but in reality a seal pulled is very cheap and way more effective. I've never done that other method outside of this demo on the video here - always just use the puller!
@matthew7972 a guy ran a small shop over in algodones mexico, I don't think he does mechanic work anymore but it's been almost 3 years and it still works great
Some people out there, like myself, might not be able to or want to spend the money on the puller. Having the knowledge of a simple trick like that might be handy too for future jobs where you might not have access to all your tools. You can never have too much knowledge
I haven't commented before but have watched (& rewatched!) all of your WJ videos - great information and outstanding presentation - THANK YOU for all of the effort that goes into this channel.
scottdman thanks!! I'm glad you're finding the videos helpful!
Fine example of what a "how to .. " tutorial should be made. Great work.
What a great step by step video. I appreciate the time you took on making the video. Especially like the tips and advice on removing the seal. Also will have to take a look at my vent tube and the rubber plug tomorrow morning just in case that may be the culprit. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video for us.
For those wanting to know about the rubber grommet - (Mopar Part No 5018919AA) Also known as a snap ring access plug - took me forever to find. Hope someone finds this useful.
Thank you , I was going crazy trying to find this plug ...
Thank you!!
Awesome. Thanks for the high quality video
my concern was by the T case where there is also a slight movement up and down on the rear output (rear driveshaft going straight to the rear diff) and all of this the car is on the ground no jacks and in park is this normal? Because I have a clunk everytime I go to reverse and especially on drive
and also when reversing and braking quickly the front axle moves forward and reverse ( the front calipers move alot as well) I've been inspecting and have really nothing except for the upper control arm under the driver side (it's right hand drive) having alot of play but the lowers have no play
Good video. I have the Quadra Drive NP247 in an 04 4.7L H.O.. It just took a dump for the second time so bought a NP231J and going to retro fit that.
billyazprospector sounds like that will be a great setup!
Dose the hole on that output shaft have internal threats?
Great video. Does the bushing need to be replaced also?
Great video thanks I’ll will be doin this soon
2022 and you just help me thank you
Well done! BRB basement
Title of the video states NV247 ...did you mean NP247?
Hi I have some movement from rear output shaft from the NV247 T case and slight movement on the rear diff on the drive shaft Its definitely not the U joints is this normal? Or is my drivetrain gone
If you mean a slight bit of rotational movement, some is fine. Even in park you can rotate the driveshaft a tiny bit either direction.
@@VortexGarage I have that by the rear diff and by the the t case but my concern was by the T case where there is also a slight movement up and down on the rear output (rear driveshaft going straight to the rear diff) and all of this the car is on the ground no jacks and in park is this normal? Because I have a clunk everytime I go to reverse and now everytime I go to drive and when reversing and braking the front axle moves forward and reverse ( the front calipers move alot as well)
Does the vent tube come with the seal kit as well, it seems that mine has disappeared on me.
Could a put a video up of how to convert a rpezza rpezza to a double Cardon to single Cardon
Contact Tom Woods Drivelines. They make the special yoke needed for the transfer case end of the front driveline. Then you can use the front driveline off an XJ or WJ, just confirm length and u-joint size.
do you have the part number of the plug on top of the transfer case tail shaft?
You never showed the oval seal cap
I would buy the seal puller
Totally agree - I remember back doing this, was trying to show an alternative but in reality a seal pulled is very cheap and way more effective. I've never done that other method outside of this demo on the video here - always just use the puller!
THANKS!!!!
wj分动箱输出密封件的更换
Hey I gotta wj limited with the 4.7 v8 I was in 4 lo and started to hear a clunking noise anybody got any ideas
It’ll blow up don’t drive
@@matthew7972 it was the transfer case, I got it replaced in mexico for $300 lol
@@Bisnus-Goose no way, where?
@matthew7972 a guy ran a small shop over in algodones mexico, I don't think he does mechanic work anymore but it's been almost 3 years and it still works great
Why not buy a seal puller for 12 dollars so the video isn't 18 minutes long
Some people out there, like myself, might not be able to or want to spend the money on the puller. Having the knowledge of a simple trick like that might be handy too for future jobs where you might not have access to all your tools. You can never have too much knowledge
use a flat head screwdriver it would have been alot faster