I've had so many diesel mechanics tell me that the rebuild environment must be hospital clean, with dust free filtered air and paper suits. The engine will run away if you don't! I've got to spend 2 grand on a new pump they say! Yeah, I can do this. Thanks for posting.
Mechanics sometimes fib. I run my tractor with diesel fuel I catch in a can from a long lasting leak and recycle it back into the tank. Been doing this for months and she runs just fine. I’m finally now getting to rebuild my injector pump now.
I have to replace the o-rings and gasket on my MF 135 injection pump, so your video is well and truly overkill for me. But one day I hope to completely disassemble it and rebuild it. Thank you for the video. Information like this is priceless.
Love seeing the home made tool at 37.15, & those long surgical tweezers. Good to see you using oil on your O rings & parts ! Also using diesel in your test
Damn! I envy mechanics! You make that look so easy! I’m restoring a 1962 MF 35 diesel deluxe and have injector pump problems. Not sure I can do all of that. But this video sure helps! Thanks!
Pa, me mire todo el vídeo, eres bombista , la verdad q es un oficio q mi hubiera gustado , y más ahora q creo q tengo q hacer la bomba de mi camioneta , saludos desde Uruguay
Thanks for sharing this video, unfortunately it lack the close-ups and explanations which would let me fix my Ferguson's injector issues that occoured after I took out the small fuel filter, spring and plunger, and apparently did not put it back, or added seals? I need very detailed video and explanations to understand what, if anything I need to rectify. Stay safe, regards Niels.
me fue de mucha ayuda, un video genial y muy muy bien mostrada todas las piezas que quitas y pones. Solo una pregunta, ¿si tu referencia de bomba es 2, porque colocas la varilla del acelerador con la referencia del 5?
If you want that viceplate you dont have to make that big hole in the centre,you can just use your angle grinder to make a U cut,just telling those home mechanics,that don t have access to a big drill.Thank you,also for spare parts information.
Interesting that this pump has an advance mechanism on it. As far as I can find this was not original equipment on the MF35 or the MF35x. Also, my fairly late 35x has the set code stamped on the plate so I guess this is a replacement pump possibly from a Land Rover where the advance mechanism was used. The ident. plate also looks like a more modern variant.
You are right. I do not know what this pump came from. I got it as payment from a man with hundreds of tractors and combines. I do not think he had Land Rovers though.
Perfect video, thank you so much. If you allow me one question, i have no fuel at the injector lines. metering valve seems to be moving freely. spring in the top cover is not broken, so there shoul be no probkem. what else could lead to no fuel at the line outlets? Thanks - André
Andre´. Thank you for commenting. There are two little plungers/pistons, that can be stuck in the bore. Take some photos of the pumphead before you take it apart. With the components out of the pumphouse put two screws in the axle, the same way as when you take the allen screw out. You can now hold the axle in a vice, by clamping the two screws. Then stack the governor on top of that, and the pumpbody on top of the governor. By doing it this way you are able to unscrew the two screws on the pumpbody without this turning. They are tight. When you have it apart you have access to the two little plungers behind the to rollers. For the pump to be able to pump they must be able to move freely. They are very precise machined, so if they have rust on them you can buy new ones. Injectionpumps.co.uk have them. Lance at"Bundy Bears Shed" shows the plungers in his video about the MF 135 inbectionpump been taking apart.
I have a 35x 1962 an my fuel pump dont pump any fuel to the 3 injector tubes, what can be the problem? Everything else is ok with the pump but nothing coming out of the injection tube holes
That seal you replaced / l have never seen anyone put oil on the outside ring of the metal of a seal , it is usually pressed in dry , & deep enough so that there is no part of anything rotating can rub metal to metal , as did Lance @ “Bundy Bears Shed
Poul Gammelgaard . I was not talking about it rotating , but rather the flange on the part that goes through it ! The part you have in your hand at 26.30 ! in fact l have made many tools (some on the lath) from steel aluminum & plastic, to install seals and bearings , to there correct depth Some seals come with a coating of lock-tight & some instruction manuals say use a specific lock-tight In this case here a washer from shim-stock of say 0.005 should be adequate, install between seal & that part , seat part ,then remove it & temporary shim , then carry on with the assembly.
Thanks a million, How to correct it when the pump does not decelerate at the right time, because it affects when changing gears.. Awaiting your soon reply.. P.S I mean the pump stays accelerated for a brief moment...
I am having one heck of a time getting my pump to work. I intially got one of the roller cams upside down but have that corrected now but still no fuel squirts when I turn over by hand. Yes I double checked stop lever attachment and positioned. Is it possible my pump wouldn't move fuel like yours unless turning over relatively fast? I'm really in trouble.
Hi Don. If you are sure the little pistons behind the rollers are able to move freely, the pumphead could be so worn that you have to put in a new one. Sparex have them.The small bores in the pumphead can also be filled with dirt. Did it pump before you took it apart?
You have to slide the pump body back half an inch to replace the o-ring. You can do that though with the pump still boltet to the tractor. First top cover off to remove the metering valve, then the three bolts all way round.
inayAt Mirza Saleh thank you for commenting. To adjust the amount of fuel injected at each stroke you loosen the two screws on the pump head and turn the adjusting ring to allow the two rollers to come longer or shorter apart. But you need to have the pump in a test bench to be able to calibrate the amount of fuel. Factory settings are often stamped on the blue sign on the pump.
Hola amigo tengo una bomba igual y no sale gasoil por.el purgador de arriba, el de abajo todo bien, si saco la tapa podré solucionar, desde ya muchas gracias
At time 31:12 that snap ring MUST go back in exactly the same spot in its rotation , so it can be used in the pump timing , l did not see you mark it on removal, nor pay attention to it when you put it back in !
Luigi Epomiceno thank you for your comment. After paint remover I used a wire wheel to clean the outside and after that some fine steel wool with soap in it ( rens-let ).
1:00:44 What is the name of the piece that you place in the video, from minute 1.00.44 and what function does it fulfill? Could it be missing from my pump?
You would not be able to stop the engine, if it is missing. It is the linkage form the stop axle/stop lever and the measuring valve. It rotates the measuring valve and brings it in a position where no diesel can flow to the pump head. Injectionpumps.co.uk calls it "CAV DPA fuel shut off bar"
frog eye thank you for commenting. Normally there is a scribe line on the flange of the pump where the bolts mounts to the timing cover on the tractor ( at 29.45 in the video, you can see the scribe line at the flange just besides the bolt ). There is also a scribe line on the tractor. When these two lines are lined up the pump is timed correct. There can be paint over the lines. If you cannot find them, you can make new ones before you loosen the pump. If you take out the big snap ring inside the pump, it is important, that you make a scribe line in the window on the side of the pump, so you can place it in the exact same spot, when you put it back together. I don't show that in my video. Bundy Bears Shed shows it in one of his.
Good job for hello. I have a question. For example, is there anything that can be done to use the 3241f350 diesel pump (T4.236) instead of the 3348f230 diesel pump for the perkins 4.236?
Seal kit S.57135 from Spares or Delphi Lucas 7135-110 includes seals and washers. Other parts are bought separately. You can repair a leaking pump with the seal kit. If the pump is worn, it is often best to replace the whole rotor head: Spares S.105971
I have a MF240 It was running fine until I let it sit for about 6 months, I went to start and will not start, I bleed all lines as suggested and nothing, when I use starter fluid it starts right up my guess is the injection pump. I would like to get your input thanks.
Sharda Parsaram thank you for commenting. On your MF240 it could be the metering valve stuck in the stop position. Take off the top cover on the pump and free it. In the future always leave the tractor with the stop button pushed in so it is in run position, when the tractor is standing.
Hello Poul. Thank you for the video. It has been a good resource for me. Can you tell me if the bolt with the ball on the advance device needs to be aligned with the hole on the advance body? Also is there an easy way to get the bolt out. The bolt came out of the CAV body, but is stuck in the advance device. I think the ball is jammed or the bolt damaged Best regards -Jason
Sometimes the advance device is difficult to take apart because of rust. The bolt can also be difficult to screw loose from the cam ring, I use a big adjustable wrench on the end. The ball should be located with a spring on one side and a piston on the other side. For the device to function it has to be so clean, that the springs and piston can move easily.
Thank you for taking the time to respond Poul. I am referring to the bolt you take out at 15:38. Mine has a ball that goes into the side of the bolt. I did not see a plunger or spring, just a ball. The ball goes into a hole in the bolt and there is another hole in the advance body. I damaged the bolt and body pulling it apart. I have new parts coming but want to make sure I put it together correctly. I have not been able to find good documentation on how it assembles, or if I am missing parts. Previous owner might have put it together improperly. I am not sure if I can post pictures here.
Ok maybe you have the advance device with a damper on the end of the bolt, it has a bal lin the shaft. If that is the case you just put the ball in the hole in the shaft and screw it in.
I did not see the part at 11.38 being replaced at 41.41. was it omitted. learned a lot with your video. thanks. I am in need of a roose master pump if you or anyone here knows where I can get one working or not. again thanks.
J T thank you for commenting. It is the piston retaining spring in the end plate. It is there to let the piston go down to open the bottom port, when you are priming the pump with the lift pump.
Vittorio De lure thank you for commenting. There is a little piston in the advance device, that is connected to the cam ring. Under start it turns the cam ring a little for easier start. When the engine is running the oil pressure brings it back to normal run position. There are also small shims behind that piston for finetuning injection timing.
Dose it prevent and engine from starting if it gets stuck!? My engine sat for 7 years, ran good, now will not start, kinda gets fuel to injectors, just enough to see it wants to work , but doesn't
Daniel Rojas thank you for commenting. The seal is 1.125" x 1.5" x 0.25", it is included in the Sparex S.57135 kit or Delphi 7135 - 110 kit. Some pumps have an upgraded 2 part seal. Injectionpumps.co.uk have the upgraded seal.
WanSolve thank you for commenting. If you watch carefully at 24.36 you can see the bore changes from dirty to clean, so yes I did clean the housing and all other parts.
After installing the end of the pump part at 34:32 shoud the shaft rotate without restriction. my shaft turns hits a restriction point every 90 degress. Are those rollers out of place?
@@poulgammelgaard8868 Im rebuilding my bedstefars 1964 MF 135 at the moment, i have some rounded bolts i need replacing on the diesel pump, and also some wear on the cam. Is it advisable to change out the cam and rollers as the high points on the cam seem to have worn down, small line grooves.? Guessing its gone through the hardening layer.
@@nathanviking If the cam and rollers show signs of wear, I would change them. Injectionpumps.co.uk have them. Maybe the pumphead is worn and needs changing too: Sparex 105971.S. The 135 is directly injection. I am not sure, if the pump is exactly the same.
Robert Mintz shouldn’t have to use any Loctite on any DPA pump...I was a fuel injection engineer for20 years on many applications in- line Bosch cav Simms etc,cleanliness and calibration fluid is all you need and experience on testing equipment..., I
Great Video. I have a MF35 3Zylinder, but no Fuel comes out of the Injectionpump. I’m affraid, I can’t put together, when I take everything award. Would you fix the Pump if I would send it to you? Greetings from Germany 🙋🏼♂️
Crzy thank you for your comment. I am no professionel, so I only fix my own pumps. I think you can fix it yourselves, not much to loose. But first be sure you have diesel coming to the pump. There is the filter on the tank valve, the membran in the lift pump, the two filters and the little screen in the inlet valve. The first thing to check on the pump before you take it off the tractor is the metering valve. It is often stuck in the closed position after the tractor has been standing still for a period of time. So off with the top cover and check that first. It can be necessary to change the pump head itself, Sparex sell a nice one. I have a video coming very soon about changing the head. Regards Poul
Har lige set din video.Ser ud til du ved hvad du gør! :-) har en IH454 med en CAV pumpe, kan godt få diesel ud af den nederste udluftningsskrue. Men der kommer intet ud af den øverste skrue.. der kommer meget lidt ud af de 3 afgangskanaler?? har du et bud??
Hej Anders Peter. Tak for din kommentar. Jeg kender ikke noget til IH, men mon ikke det ligner Massey Ferguson? Jeg ville starte fra en enda af med tankhanen. Der sidder et filter på den inde i tanken, som kan stoppe til. Skru slangen fra tankhanen af fødepumpen og check det løber der, når du åbner tankhanen. Selvom det er fristende, skal du ikke blæse luft i slangen, da det vil skubbe filteret af tankhanen. Næste step er fødepumpen. Membranen kan være revnet i den eller ventilerne kan være stoppet til. Skru dieselrøret af det første diesel filter og check, der kommer en fed stråle her, når du håndpumper. Diesel filtrene kan jo også trænge til udskiftning. Næste er indløbsventilen i endepladen på CAV pumpen. Skru røret af her og bagefter den store bolt, det sidder i. Her sidder der også et filter, som kan være stoppet. Længere nede i indløbsventilen er der et lille rør med et lillebitte stempel i. Hvis stemplet sidder fast i røret, kan du ikke prime pumpen, for det skal skubbes helt i bund af dieselolien, når man primer. Når alle disse steps er checket og i orden skulle du kunne prime CAV pumpen. Hvis den stadig ikke leverer fuldt tryk ud af alle tre afgange, er det den, du skal se på. Du kan i første omgang tage topdækslet af, og sikre dig at måleventilen bevæger sig frit. Hvis det ikke hjælper er det af med pumpen og gennemgå denne. Mvh Poul
@@poulgammelgaard8868 Hej. undskyld for det lange svar tid "covid 19" har fundet fejlen.. det var brændstofpumpen der var blevet mør.. så den kunne ikke lever diesel. Den virkede i de første minutter når man startede den, der efter forsvandt flowet ud af pumpen, har skiftet den og den virker nu!! tak for din viden
Thanks Poul Gammelgaard! I believe I put mine in wrong then, I’m having issues building enough pressure to pop the injectors off, do you believe this could be why? I did have all of the injectors tested.
@@2775pulling I do not think you can put it in wrong, it will only sit right, when it is in the right place. I have had the same issue when I adjusted the injectors to correct opening pressure. The pump cannot deliver enough pressure because it is worn. Only cure for that is to put in a new pump head. Sparex ( not a sponsor ) sells them. They are not that expensive.
Poul Gammelgaard thanks for the information! I guess I’ll just start looking for a new head or pump. Getting this tractor going has been quite the chore.
Robonthemoor thank you for commenting. I am afraid you wouldn't understand my danish. I buy Sparex parts here: www.malpasonline.co.uk You can also use: Delphi Lucas CAV DPA Diesel fuel injection pump gasket seal kit 7135 - 110 from eBay
Sparex sells a replacement pump head from Mefin in Romania. It is nice when the pump is so worn, that it cannot deliver sufficient pressure. Maybe the tractor can run, but it will be hard to start. Sparex S.105971 for 3 cylinder pumps.
Mig bekendt er der ikke noget i vejen med dansk,har ikke hørt det skulle være forbudt,men du bestemmer selvfølgelig selv om du vil tale dit eget mål,videoen fejler ikke noget!Thank you.
Min nye Makita lille v.sliber er også made in R.Hvis man får den byttet et par gange,kan man være heldig at få en der virker,lidt træls når kunder skal være quality tester!Det må elvfølgelig være Makitas ansvar though.
Hej Poul, hvor køber du reservedele henne? Jeg har en benziner fra 64 der trænger til lidt omsorg, synes bare det er svært at finde et ordentlig sted at skaffe dele til den. Mvh Rasmus
Hej Rasmus. Det er nok ikke pumpereservedele du tænker på. Men til traktoren køber jeg forskellige steder. Helst brugte originale dele. Men ellers agriline, histoparts, olssons i ellos, Malpas online, Koop van der val, silver fox tractor, Michael Føns osv. De fleste nye dele er ikke særlig gode. Mvh Poul
@@poulgammelgaard8868 ok tak, det må jeg kigge på. Ja det er ærgeligt at de ikke kan lave noget ordentligt idag, men så må man jo nøjes, heldigvis er det ikke så vigtige ting der skal skiftes
Hi Poul, im a David Brown 990 owner and i have a problem with the screw you tightening in the min 51:56. That screw has butterfly nut and its loose. Don't know if i have to tighten it completly or what, because a friend of mine told me that, the scew has 2 positions, one to cold start up(winter) and the other one for hot start up(summer or whatever). Maybe somebody has the same problem here? Thank you in advance for this video, so usefull.
great video!I think I have a leakage from the gasket 48:52 .. it is the one seling the auto advance device cover... do you think this would be replaceable without tearing the pumps down from the block/ timing gears? thanks
GI EMME thank you for commenting. Yes I think you can take the auto advance device off by unscrewing one nut and one bolt. If you also loosen one of the two caps, the one with the little bolt in the middle, it loosens the tension on the spring so it will easier come free of the connection rod that is screwed into the cam ring. If you take the cap completely off, you can check for rust in the advance device, water from the fuel will collect here in the lowest part of the system. When you put it back together it is best to use new washers and o-rings. The nut needs a special washer with rubber in the center. If you buy a seal kit it is in the kit. The washer for the bolt is normally not in the kit. The caps are sealed with o-rings. Good luck with the repair.
@@poulgammelgaard8868 Great answers! this is all I needed.. I thought the little bolt in the middle of the "front cap" was something to adjust.. so you tell me it has no regulation but just it is needed to keep the sprign pushed toware the rod... then I think a complete bleeding is needed
Great informative video, cleanliness and zero bullshit...
Thank you very much
I've had so many diesel mechanics tell me that the rebuild environment must be hospital clean, with dust free filtered air and paper suits. The engine will run away if you don't! I've got to spend 2 grand on a new pump they say! Yeah, I can do this. Thanks for posting.
John Smith thank you for commenting.
Mechanics sometimes fib. I run my tractor with diesel fuel I catch in a can from a long lasting leak and recycle it back into the tank. Been doing this for months and she runs just fine. I’m finally now getting to rebuild my injector pump now.
I have to replace the o-rings and gasket on my MF 135 injection pump, so your video is well and truly overkill for me. But one day I hope to completely disassemble it and rebuild it. Thank you for the video. Information like this is priceless.
Alpha Omega thank you for your comment. I am happy, if the video can help you.
Love seeing the home made tool at 37.15, & those long surgical tweezers.
Good to see you using oil on your O rings & parts ! Also using diesel in your test
Damn! I envy mechanics! You make that look so easy! I’m restoring a 1962 MF 35 diesel deluxe and have injector pump problems. Not sure I can do all of that. But this video sure helps! Thanks!
Texas Woc thank you for your comment. Good luck with your pump.
Gostei de ver este vídeo excelente trabalho. Também tenho uma para tentar recuperar de um mf 35 de 4 cilindros.
Thanks for the nice video Poul, I'm about to do the same on my MF35X pump....completely clogged with paraffine. Greetings from another Dane
Tak for kommentaren. På min 35x måtte jeg yderligere skifte pumpehovedet, for at få den til at starte nemt. Sparex har dem. Mvh Poul
Nice to watch your quiet demonstration which is so informative & more detailed thanks so much.
@@chibuyecaytone2120 Thank you
Good work bro
Thank you. Nice comment from a pro.
Very informative. No narration needed. Thanks
James Stroud thank you for commenting.
Pa, me mire todo el vídeo, eres bombista , la verdad q es un oficio q mi hubiera gustado , y más ahora q creo q tengo q hacer la bomba de mi camioneta , saludos desde Uruguay
Merci pour cette excellente vidéo
Thank you
Thanks for sharing this video, unfortunately it lack the close-ups and explanations which would let me fix my Ferguson's injector issues that occoured after I took out the small fuel filter, spring and plunger, and apparently did not put it back, or added seals? I need very detailed video and explanations to understand what, if anything I need to rectify.
Stay safe, regards Niels.
Gracias
Very meticulous , very clean , well done !
Robert Mintz thank you for commenting.
Very good job my friend.Thank you!!!!
Adi Baltariu thank you for commenting.
Muy buen video
Carlos Romero thank you for commenting
me fue de mucha ayuda, un video genial y muy muy bien mostrada todas las piezas que quitas y pones. Solo una pregunta, ¿si tu referencia de bomba es 2, porque colocas la varilla del acelerador con la referencia del 5?
Jose´thank you for commenting. If you look at 4.08 it is in position 5, therefore i put it back in 5.
If you want that viceplate you dont have to make that big hole in the centre,you can just use your angle grinder to make a U cut,just telling those home mechanics,that don t have access to a big drill.Thank you,also for spare parts information.
Claes mansion thank you for commenting. I just used a hole saw.
Thank you man. You help me very much.
borcemkdnegotino thank you for commenting.
Interesting that this pump has an advance mechanism on it. As far as I can find this was not original equipment on the MF35 or the MF35x. Also, my fairly late 35x has the set code stamped on the plate so I guess this is a replacement pump possibly from a Land Rover where the advance mechanism was used. The ident. plate also looks like a more modern variant.
You are right. I do not know what this pump came from. I got it as payment from a man with hundreds of tractors and combines. I do not think he had Land Rovers though.
Nice video nice job
Krishan Jat thank you
muito bom seu trabalho profissional
Marilia Bordignon Maia thank you for your nice comment.
Muy
Interesantetodolorefenteareparaciondelostractores
Quri saber o que seria vem diesel ate abomba enao sobe pros bico obg ja agradeço que deus oabencoe sempre ate
Maybe the metering valve is stuck in the stop position
Great video Poul !
Lars Kristensen, thank you.
Great job thanks
James Tubb thank you.
Thanks a lot!
Thank you for commenting
Niece video informative
agritech junction thank you for commenting
Thanks for your input. I will let you know if it works.
Thanks!
Perfect video, thank you so much. If you allow me one question, i have no fuel at the injector lines. metering valve seems to be moving freely. spring in the top cover is not broken, so there shoul be no probkem. what else could lead to no fuel at the line outlets? Thanks - André
Andre´. Thank you for commenting. There are two little plungers/pistons, that can be stuck in the bore. Take some photos of the pumphead before you take it apart. With the components out of the pumphouse put two screws in the axle, the same way as when you take the allen screw out. You can now hold the axle in a vice, by clamping the two screws. Then stack the governor on top of that, and the pumpbody on top of the governor. By doing it this way you are able to unscrew the two screws on the pumpbody without this turning. They are tight. When you have it apart you have access to the two little plungers behind the to rollers. For the pump to be able to pump they must be able to move freely. They are very precise machined, so if they have rust on them you can buy new ones. Injectionpumps.co.uk have them. Lance at"Bundy Bears Shed" shows the plungers in his video about the MF 135 inbectionpump been taking apart.
Poul Gammelgaard Thanks so much! its back alive! saved me a lot if money and time!
C coool Mon boulo adoré
I have a 35x 1962 an my fuel pump dont pump any fuel to the 3 injector tubes, what can be the problem? Everything else is ok with the pump but nothing coming out of the injection tube holes
Buenas noches, un excelente video, una pregunta. A que lo llaman poner en punto..?
Jo tengo el massey ferguson 35x con el motor todo nuevo y la culata ! Pero cuando esta a relenting siempre hacer mucho humos 💨 nose que hacer ?
That seal you replaced / l have never seen anyone put oil on the outside ring of the metal of a seal , it is usually pressed in dry , & deep enough so that there is no part of anything rotating can rub metal to metal , as did Lance @ “Bundy Bears Shed
I think you are right, it is better to be sure it won't rotate and take the extra effort to press it in.
Poul Gammelgaard . I was not talking about it rotating , but rather the flange on the part that goes through it ! The part you have in your hand at 26.30 ! in fact l have made many tools (some on the lath) from steel aluminum & plastic, to install seals and bearings , to there correct depth
Some seals come with a coating of lock-tight & some instruction manuals say use a specific lock-tight
In this case here a washer from shim-stock of say 0.005 should be adequate, install between seal & that part , seat part ,then remove it & temporary shim , then carry on with the assembly.
where to buy all the little items not in the kit in the USA
Does a defect in the diesel injector cause a weakness in the tractor’s torque when plowing? Please answer
It could, or it could be low compression, retarded pump timing, or low fuel pressure
Any idea where I can find a replacement cam ring at? Can't seem to find the A309E.
injectionpumps.co.uk/?s=CAV+DPA+cam+ring+7139&post_type=product
Super - Topp
Renate Himmel thank you
I have a pump that I fixed two months ago and then it broke. How do I know the original parts
Thanks a million, How to correct it when the pump does not decelerate at the right time, because it affects when changing gears.. Awaiting your soon reply.. P.S I mean the pump stays accelerated for a brief moment...
Osael Parentes thank you for commenting. Your problem could be because of dirt and rust in the governor mechanism.
question when its running does that area under that cover fill with fuel and be under pressure from supply pump
MKOMKONNNN yes it does. That is why you change the little o-rings on the two shafts, so it does not leak.
How do I know the original pump head?
Hey paul i am doing over a simalar pump ,but i cant figure out where a small ball bearing goes can you help
injectionpumps.co.uk/interactive/interactive-cav-dpa-parts-diagram.htm
Can anyone tell me which position for shutdown lever to be in run position?
Good BUT.... HOW DO YOU UNINSTALL the pump ?
I am having one heck of a time getting my pump to work. I intially got one of the roller cams upside down but have that corrected now but still no fuel squirts when I turn over by hand. Yes I double checked stop lever attachment and positioned. Is it possible my pump wouldn't move fuel like yours unless turning over relatively fast? I'm really in trouble.
Hi Don. If you are sure the little pistons behind the rollers are able to move freely, the pumphead could be so worn that you have to put in a new one. Sparex have them.The small bores in the pumphead can also be filled with dirt. Did it pump before you took it apart?
professional ...
Chen Tina thank you
Muito chique. 10:52
is it possible to replace the o-ring you replaced at 33:35, without removing the whole unit from the tractor?
You have to slide the pump body back half an inch to replace the o-ring. You can do that though with the pump still boltet to the tractor. First top cover off to remove the metering valve, then the three bolts all way round.
nice details video i want know About how to Adjusted fuel ratio
inayAt Mirza Saleh thank you for commenting. To adjust the amount of fuel injected at each stroke you loosen the two screws on the pump head and turn the adjusting ring to allow the two rollers to come longer or shorter apart. But you need to have the pump in a test bench to be able to calibrate the amount of fuel. Factory settings are often stamped on the blue sign on the pump.
Would there be an explosion if the gas and stop are installed incorrectly?
Hola amigo tengo una bomba igual y no sale gasoil por.el purgador de arriba, el de abajo todo bien, si saco la tapa podré solucionar, desde ya muchas gracias
Alberto meroni thank you for commenting. Good luck with your pump.
Não é preciso tirar a tampa, remova completamente o sangrador e injete gasoleo na bomba manual vai sair gasoleo no sangrador
Good evening
How to adjust the governor spring linkage length
At time 31:12 that snap ring MUST go back in exactly the same spot in its rotation , so it can be used in the pump timing , l did not see you mark it on removal, nor pay attention to it when you put it back in !
Great video! What did you use to clean the pump so well? I cannot get it so clean using petrol, brake cleaner, W40 and nitro solvent. Thanks.
Luigi Epomiceno thank you for your comment. After paint remover I used a wire wheel to clean the outside and after that some fine steel wool with soap in it ( rens-let ).
Luigi Epomiceno . A bead blasting cabinet and glass beads , = quick & efficient, does beautiful job.
Isso que é trabalho mesmo
Maria Ilda Muito obrigado pelo seu bom comentário
What do I do if my data plate is missing?
Буває комбайн Вольво 800 день постоїть і потім треба довго гонити стартером, а на протязі дня заводиться без проблем в чому може бути проблема?
1:00:44 What is the name of the piece that you place in the video, from minute 1.00.44 and what function does it fulfill? Could it be missing from my pump?
You would not be able to stop the engine, if it is missing. It is the linkage form the stop axle/stop lever and the measuring valve. It rotates the measuring valve and brings it in a position where no diesel can flow to the pump head. Injectionpumps.co.uk calls it "CAV DPA fuel shut off bar"
I have also a mf135 1972 model rotry pump cav
as soon as I put the high pressure part back, and the bolt (bleed bolt ect.) then the pump runs heavy
Great video. If I feel brave enough to undertake this job will I need to check the timing when the pump is refitted to the engine? Thanks
frog eye thank you for commenting. Normally there is a scribe line on the flange of the pump where the bolts mounts to the timing cover on the tractor ( at 29.45 in the video, you can see the scribe line at the flange just besides the bolt ). There is also a scribe line on the tractor. When these two lines are lined up the pump is timed correct. There can be paint over the lines. If you cannot find them, you can make new ones before you loosen the pump. If you take out the big snap ring inside the pump, it is important, that you make a scribe line in the window on the side of the pump, so you can place it in the exact same spot, when you put it back together. I don't show that in my video. Bundy Bears Shed shows it in one of his.
@@poulgammelgaard8868 Really useful - thanks again.
@@poulgammelgaard8868 .
Good job for hello.
I have a question.
For example, is there anything that can be done to use the 3241f350 diesel pump (T4.236) instead of the 3348f230 diesel pump for the perkins 4.236?
emre doruk thank you for commenting. If the calibration is stamped on the blue signs on the pumps you can compare.
@@poulgammelgaard8868thanks for commenting They can be used interchangeably, if that's what you said.
Hi Poul, Great video. What did you use to clean the internal parts of the pump?
Brandon Tindeli thank you for commenting. I used brake cleaner.
Can you get a kit of the parts of does the entire part need to be rebuilt !?
Seal kit S.57135 from Spares or Delphi Lucas 7135-110 includes seals and washers. Other parts are bought separately. You can repair a leaking pump with the seal kit. If the pump is worn, it is often best to replace the whole rotor head: Spares S.105971
@@poulgammelgaard8868 thanks 😊 👍
I have a MF240 It was running fine until I let it sit for about 6 months, I went to start and will not start, I bleed all lines as suggested and nothing, when I use starter fluid it starts right up my guess is the injection pump. I would like to get your input thanks.
Sharda Parsaram thank you for commenting. On your MF240 it could be the metering valve stuck in the stop position. Take off the top cover on the pump and free it. In the future always leave the tractor with the stop button pushed in so it is in run position, when the tractor is standing.
Poul Gammelgaard
Thanks for your input. I will try and let you know if it works.
Hello Poul. Thank you for the video. It has been a good resource for me. Can you tell me if the bolt with the ball on the advance device needs to be aligned with the hole on the advance body?
Also is there an easy way to get the bolt out. The bolt came out of the CAV body, but is stuck in the advance device. I think the ball is jammed or the bolt damaged
Best regards
-Jason
Sometimes the advance device is difficult to take apart because of rust. The bolt can also be difficult to screw loose from the cam ring, I use a big adjustable wrench on the end. The ball should be located with a spring on one side and a piston on the other side. For the device to function it has to be so clean, that the springs and piston can move easily.
Thank you for taking the time to respond Poul. I am referring to the bolt you take out at 15:38. Mine has a ball that goes into the side of the bolt. I did not see a plunger or spring, just a ball. The ball goes into a hole in the bolt and there is another hole in the advance body. I damaged the bolt and body pulling it apart. I have new parts coming but want to make sure I put it together correctly. I have not been able to find good documentation on how it assembles, or if I am missing parts. Previous owner might have put it together improperly. I am not sure if I can post pictures here.
Ok maybe you have the advance device with a damper on the end of the bolt, it has a bal lin the shaft. If that is the case you just put the ball in the hole in the shaft and screw it in.
Thank you Poul! I do appreciate the information.
I did not see the part at 11.38 being replaced at 41.41. was it omitted. learned a lot with your video. thanks. I am in need of a roose master pump if you or anyone here knows where I can get one working or not. again thanks.
J T thank you for commenting. It is the piston retaining spring in the end plate. It is there to let the piston go down to open the bottom port, when you are priming the pump with the lift pump.
👍👍👍👍👍👍💪💪💪💪رائع جدا
Sadik Zyadh thank you.
Great video!!!
But what does auto advance device do?
Vittorio De lure thank you for commenting. There is a little piston in the advance device, that is connected to the cam ring. Under start it turns the cam ring a little for easier start. When the engine is running the oil pressure brings it back to normal run position. There are also small shims behind that piston for finetuning injection timing.
Dose it prevent and engine from starting if it gets stuck!? My engine sat for 7 years, ran good, now will not start, kinda gets fuel to injectors, just enough to see it wants to work , but doesn't
great video and had trouble buying the oil seal that you removed in the 24: 04 minute if it is not too much trouble what is the part number
Daniel Rojas thank you for commenting. The seal is 1.125" x 1.5" x 0.25", it is included in the Sparex S.57135 kit or Delphi 7135 - 110 kit. Some pumps have an upgraded 2 part seal. Injectionpumps.co.uk have the upgraded seal.
After disassembly, did clean or wash out the housing? Seems like you just re-installed the new seal without first washing or cleaning the insides.
WanSolve thank you for commenting. If you watch carefully at 24.36 you can see the bore changes from dirty to clean, so yes I did clean the housing and all other parts.
У меня такая на холодную работает отлично нагревается начинает кабы травить
Hej poul jeg har Peugeot xdp 4.90 med en cav rotodieselpumpe. til min båd'men mangler en til at servicere den.
Hej Frank. Jeg har en dieselpumpe til salg på DBA. Du kan skrive til mig privat der. Mvh Poul
was following your rebuild and tried to screw the cap off at 14:55. it broke off. What is this called and can it be ordered?
Transfer pump rotor. There are different threads, left and right, inner and outer.injectionpumps.co.uk/?s=transfer+pump+rotor&post_type=product
@@poulgammelgaard8868 Thank you so much
After installing the end of the pump part at 34:32 shoud the shaft rotate without restriction. my shaft turns hits a restriction point every 90 degress. Are those rollers out of place?
@@TheTradeuser At 38.34 you can see, it should rotate without any stops. Is yours a four cylinder?
@@poulgammelgaard8868 yes
Hi sir where can we find it's timing marks? Frm 6 cylinder engine
Hi Poul, Thanks for the video. Where do you buy the spare parts from in denmark..rødgaards?
Nathan thank you for commenting. Sparex S.57135 kit or Delphi 7135 - 110 kit from eBay. The rest from injectionpumps.co.uk
@@poulgammelgaard8868 Im rebuilding my bedstefars 1964 MF 135 at the moment, i have some rounded bolts i need replacing on the diesel pump, and also some wear on the cam. Is it advisable to change out the cam and rollers as the high points on the cam seem to have worn down, small line grooves.? Guessing its gone through the hardening layer.
@@nathanviking If the cam and rollers show signs of wear, I would change them. Injectionpumps.co.uk have them. Maybe the pumphead is worn and needs changing too: Sparex 105971.S. The 135 is directly injection. I am not sure, if the pump is exactly the same.
The rollers cost 31.30 british pounds, the cam 73.40 and the pump head: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPAREX-Einspritzpumpen-Rotorkopf/202828567955
Thanks for the reply, thats 230gbp in parts if so. 360gbp for a whole new pump from agrline in the uk. I will check the pump head for play.
At 29:12 you did not show the locktight long enough for us to determine which color or number
Robert Mintz shouldn’t have to use any Loctite on any DPA pump...I was a fuel injection engineer for20 years on many applications in- line Bosch cav Simms etc,cleanliness and calibration fluid is all you need and experience on testing equipment...,
I
Great Video. I have a MF35 3Zylinder, but no Fuel comes out of the Injectionpump. I’m affraid, I can’t put together, when I take everything award. Would you fix the Pump if I would send it to you? Greetings from Germany 🙋🏼♂️
Crzy thank you for your comment. I am no professionel, so I only fix my own pumps. I think you can fix it yourselves, not much to loose. But first be sure you have diesel coming to the pump. There is the filter on the tank valve, the membran in the lift pump, the two filters and the little screen in the inlet valve. The first thing to check on the pump before you take it off the tractor is the metering valve. It is often stuck in the closed position after the tractor has been standing still for a period of time. So off with the top cover and check that first. It can be necessary to change the pump head itself, Sparex sell a nice one. I have a video coming very soon about changing the head. Regards Poul
มีปั้มกลมขายไม้คับ
Porq se me rompe el el eje de la bomba
Har lige set din video.Ser ud til du ved hvad du gør! :-) har en IH454 med en CAV pumpe, kan godt få diesel ud af den nederste udluftningsskrue. Men der kommer intet ud af den øverste skrue.. der kommer meget lidt ud af de 3 afgangskanaler?? har du et bud??
Hej Anders Peter. Tak for din kommentar. Jeg kender ikke noget til IH, men mon ikke det ligner Massey Ferguson? Jeg ville starte fra en enda af med tankhanen. Der sidder et filter på den inde i tanken, som kan stoppe til. Skru slangen fra tankhanen af fødepumpen og check det løber der, når du åbner tankhanen. Selvom det er fristende, skal du ikke blæse luft i slangen, da det vil skubbe filteret af tankhanen. Næste step er fødepumpen. Membranen kan være revnet i den eller ventilerne kan være stoppet til. Skru dieselrøret af det første diesel filter og check, der kommer en fed stråle her, når du håndpumper. Diesel filtrene kan jo også trænge til udskiftning. Næste er indløbsventilen i endepladen på CAV pumpen. Skru røret af her og bagefter den store bolt, det sidder i. Her sidder der også et filter, som kan være stoppet. Længere nede i indløbsventilen er der et lille rør med et lillebitte stempel i. Hvis stemplet sidder fast i røret, kan du ikke prime pumpen, for det skal skubbes helt i bund af dieselolien, når man primer. Når alle disse steps er checket og i orden skulle du kunne prime CAV pumpen. Hvis den stadig ikke leverer fuldt tryk ud af alle tre afgange, er det den, du skal se på. Du kan i første omgang tage topdækslet af, og sikre dig at måleventilen bevæger sig frit. Hvis det ikke hjælper er det af med pumpen og gennemgå denne. Mvh Poul
@@poulgammelgaard8868 Hej. undskyld for det lange svar tid "covid 19" har fundet fejlen.. det var brændstofpumpen der var blevet mør.. så den kunne ikke lever diesel. Den virkede i de første minutter når man startede den, der efter forsvandt flowet ud af pumpen, har skiftet den og den virker nu!! tak for din viden
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you
Great Video! I just have one question, should the governor assembly sit on the shaft of the pump or does it sit in the lip in front of the weights?
2775pulling thank you for commenting. There is a thrust sleeve in front of the governor weights. The sleeve has flats it sit on.
Thanks Poul Gammelgaard! I believe I put mine in wrong then, I’m having issues building enough pressure to pop the injectors off, do you believe this could be why? I did have all of the injectors tested.
@@2775pulling I do not think you can put it in wrong, it will only sit right, when it is in the right place. I have had the same issue when I adjusted the injectors to correct opening pressure. The pump cannot deliver enough pressure because it is worn. Only cure for that is to put in a new pump head. Sparex ( not a sponsor ) sells them. They are not that expensive.
Poul Gammelgaard thanks for the information! I guess I’ll just start looking for a new head or pump. Getting this tractor going has been quite the chore.
nice video would be better if you spoke a little,, sparex only deal with trade or so their web page states, how do you deal with them.
Robonthemoor thank you for commenting. I am afraid you wouldn't understand my danish. I buy Sparex parts here: www.malpasonline.co.uk You can also use: Delphi Lucas CAV DPA Diesel fuel injection pump gasket seal kit 7135 - 110 from eBay
Sparex sells a replacement pump head from Mefin in Romania. It is nice when the pump is so worn, that it cannot deliver sufficient pressure. Maybe the tractor can run, but it will be hard to start. Sparex S.105971 for 3 cylinder pumps.
Mig bekendt er der ikke noget i vejen med dansk,har ikke hørt det skulle være forbudt,men du bestemmer selvfølgelig selv om du vil tale dit eget mål,videoen fejler ikke noget!Thank you.
Como que eu fasso pra achar o primeiro cilindro desse bomba injetora do 35
Há letras estampadas na bomba, onde são aparafusados os tubos dos injetores. W = 1 V = 2 U = 3
The blades of the transfer pump were made in Romania,I recognized them by the label
Stanciu Bogdan thank you for commenting. Yes they are made by MEFIN, they also make nice replacement pump heads.
Min nye Makita lille v.sliber er også made in R.Hvis man får den byttet et par gange,kan man være heldig at få en der virker,lidt træls når kunder skal være quality tester!Det må elvfølgelig være Makitas ansvar though.
Hej Poul, hvor køber du reservedele henne? Jeg har en benziner fra 64 der trænger til lidt omsorg, synes bare det er svært at finde et ordentlig sted at skaffe dele til den.
Mvh Rasmus
Hej Rasmus. Det er nok ikke pumpereservedele du tænker på. Men til traktoren køber jeg forskellige steder. Helst brugte originale dele. Men ellers agriline, histoparts, olssons i ellos, Malpas online, Koop van der val, silver fox tractor, Michael Føns osv. De fleste nye dele er ikke særlig gode. Mvh Poul
@@poulgammelgaard8868 ok tak, det må jeg kigge på. Ja det er ærgeligt at de ikke kan lave noget ordentligt idag, men så må man jo nøjes, heldigvis er det ikke så vigtige ting der skal skiftes
ok watched again I saw
You have the potential of a growing channel if you add more vids and do some narration.
Jim Buford thank you for commenting.
How much price for this pump
Quiero conseguir bomba Diesel ,furgoson 3 cilindro Ford usada Rafael Zayas PR gracias
Hi Poul, im a David Brown 990 owner and i have a problem with the screw you tightening in the min 51:56. That screw has butterfly nut and its loose.
Don't know if i have to tighten it completly or what, because a friend of mine told me that, the scew has 2 positions, one to cold start up(winter) and the other one for hot start up(summer or whatever). Maybe somebody has the same problem here?
Thank you in advance for this video, so usefull.
great video!I think I have a leakage from the gasket 48:52 .. it is the one seling the auto advance device cover... do you think this would be replaceable without tearing the pumps down from the block/ timing gears? thanks
GI EMME thank you for commenting. Yes I think you can take the auto advance device off by unscrewing one nut and one bolt. If you also loosen one of the two caps, the one with the little bolt in the middle, it loosens the tension on the spring so it will easier come free of the connection rod that is screwed into the cam ring. If you take the cap completely off, you can check for rust in the advance device, water from the fuel will collect here in the lowest part of the system. When you put it back together it is best to use new washers and o-rings. The nut needs a special washer with rubber in the center. If you buy a seal kit it is in the kit. The washer for the bolt is normally not in the kit. The caps are sealed with o-rings. Good luck with the repair.
@@poulgammelgaard8868 Great answers! this is all I needed.. I thought the little bolt in the middle of the "front cap" was something to adjust.. so you tell me it has no regulation but just it is needed to keep the sprign pushed toware the rod... then I think a complete bleeding is needed
Et tip til dig brug mere video end billede
Gustav2nd Gaming tak for tippet
Why did you not speak to what you are doing?
You would not be able to understand my Danish language :-)
мастер
Thank you
ممكن نتواصل معكم واتساب لشرح مشكله بنب الديزل
I do not have WhatsApp, but you can ask a question here, and I will try to answer