@@AreaDieselService I’ve heard lots of good things about area diesel service. If I had a turbo problem, I couldn’t solve area. Diesel service would be by go to people.
@@AreaDieselService why could he not just make those veins open all the time or just replaced that turbo charger with a different one that doesn’t have all that crap on it
"That´s how my brain perceives it" must be the best line in YT Land. And I am amazed how easy Your turbski came off and apart. You do well at keep being on top of maintance, I love to see that. I like people who appreciate and care for their tools. I can do good work with shitty tools but even better work with nice tools. Kind Regards
@LaLaLand.Germany I'm a big stickler for proper maintenance, especially if it is in regards to safety. I love to see how stuff functions. Throughout this project I wish I had aToolbox full of organized tools, but @snapontools hasn't reached out yet lol
Bolt removal tip: grab a brass hammer or a large brass punch and use it to shock the bolts without damaging them to help get them to move. The brass hammer has been one of the best adds to my tools for working non rusty stuff.
@@ShannonLandsberger LOL. I use a hammer on the blower motor of my 27-year-old truck that I bought brand new about once a year. It always starts working again.. Yes a hammer is the probably the best tool in a toolbox.
As the vanes swivel they narrow the passage to accelerate the exhaust gasses and change the angle at which they attack the turbine to accelerate it faster at low engine speeds. At high engine speeds and loads they open to reduce back pressure. Non VNT nozzles only really work well over a narrow range of speeds and loads.
This. Yes. VGTs are awesome when executed well. I think the best ones I have personal experience with are the ones on the 60 Series Detroits. Around 2005ish. That are operated partially by compressed air in trucks. I have only ever had to replace one in 1.25 million miles on this particular engine, and it was my fault. I broke the shaft speed sensor off in the center section, and it did have a bit of play in the shaft, so it got replaced. I had a BAD problem with a 2015 X15 Cummins. It set codes for the VGT actuator, so, boss said put a precalibrated turbo on it. He got a cheapo reman. It lasted less than 50 miles. The truck didn't run again. It was coughing exhaust out of the intake, and burnt valves. I thought it was a possible DPF failure, nope. So I pulled the head. Had a valve job done on it, new seats, guides, springs, the works. Same thing. Wouldn't run, coughing out of the intake. Boss wanted me to pull the head back off. Before doing all that I decided to pull the turbo loose on the manifold. Fired right up. Apparently, the vanes completely shut in the turbo and had the exhaust blocked off so bad it would only run for about 2 seconds, and die from no oxygen. When the exhaust could exhaust, it would run. A new Cummins genuine part # turbo, and she's still going strong a year later.
@@fascistpedant758 I'd hope so too, but, doubt it. All it will take is him saving money one time and he'll swear that's the only way to go. Bosses, amirite?
Tip: all of those turbo bolts and exhaust manifold bolts, you already have a problem solver on your truck. Its called “copper thread sealer” that you use on your drilling rods. Put that on all of those exhaust bolts and exhaust manifold boats and turbo bolts threads. You will not have any trouble getting them out next time. that stuff works up to 1800° if it’s the same stuff I use on race motor’s and drag boats, etc.. i use loctite brand currently. It is not a thread locker.
Machine the step in the housing that you always have to remove the rust from down about .070". Have an 0.063 washer fabricated from 316 SS plate dimensions to match the OD and ID of that area. If you have holes for screws, make matching ones in the SS washer. Place the SS washer in place first and then finish rebuilding the turbo vanes area. Or research a protective coating for the cast iron in that area to reduce or eliminate the rusting.
International sells just a back half kit with the vanes, cheaper than a whole turbo, used to replace them all time when they would get seized up from antifreeze from EGR cooler failures.
You’re going to need to replace that entire cast-iron exhaust housing. Once the rust pits get that bad it’s never going to stop deteriorating plus that unison ring needs a smooth surface to ride on. That’s why it keeps hanging up. I just went through all this with the VGT set up on my truck.
If you put a qt of atf in the tank every other fill up, that should help with oiling some of those internal parts. We did it in the army with the humvees.
Thanks SOOo much for saving the warming earth!! Really the skill set you showed is amazing. I am a ex iH and NIASE cert Heavy mechanic and you are at j💯Journeyman level 💯 Super Mech. Thanks for the great video.
Here's a great, cheap, rust remover: - 1 gallon water - 13.3 ounces citric acid (available in the Canning supplies at your local supermarket) - 8.4 ounces baking soda - A squirt of liquid dish soap I used this inside a VERY rusty gas tank and it was amazing. It came out clean! And a heck of a lot cheaper than any commercial product.
Area diesel service may do a collab video for you and save you some money. I did notice the area where the exhaust turbine rides is really thin about to fail. Keep up the video's.
You're into my territory now 😂 VGTs plague the diesel industry, but they're directly related to emissions regulations 😢 I'm not much on PB blaster. My favorite is GMs heat valve lubricant p/n 88862628 . Liquid wrench ain't bad either.
The best this bought is a atv electric winch. It is small but strong you can bolt it to anything above a small 12 battery. To lift out stuff like that turbo.
to help save pumps , injector's , and all the ware parts i dump 1 quart of ATF in my tank , now i am talking 250 gallon tank's . after 5 years of doing this i can not say it helps but i have not put injectors in or replaced a pump.
Thats why they sell a diesel additive at auto parts stores to get the sulfur and lubricants back into the diesel. It helps on injector life. Its not cheap but saves your engine parts in the long run.
Talk to area diesel service. Next time you might be able to do most of the work and only pay for the special machining, parts, and fabrication of a permanent fix. I thought i have seen some exhaust side of turbocharger black oxide coated. This is worth a call to area diesel service before it happens again!
I wonder if you could grease it up before putting a new one in. I bet there's also a mixture of deoxogrease that would work best for this thing. Dunno how it would handle the elements if that intake has lots of dirt though. Honestly though you pointed out the inside of the pipe looks nearly spotless. so idk...
Probably a bad type of cast iron or excessive exhaust gas temperature. They usually are black with soot which does a good job preventing corrosion. Another issue is frequent cycling of the actuator helps keep things free. The electronic models do this but only immediately before startup. Giving the engine a full hot supper after warmed up will keep it smooth
@@retjarhead Well of course. If you have adjustable vanes, they have to be on the hot side, which is a terrible idea. OR you could do what normal people do and have a dumb/waste gate.
@@PurpleFinchFarm Have you ever driven a truck with a variable vein turbo? The power delivery is far superior. Could be as simple as running some diesel additive every once in a while for the older trucks.
There is a lot more to a reman turbo than disassembling the vanes and cleaning. The only parts reused are the outer housing's. Everything internal are replaced with new. Since you have had this problem multiple times it sounds like another issue is causing this one. If the truck is driven with light loads only and is never worked it can cause this issue. Does the drilling rig have it's own engine? If so is it required to run the trucks engine as well?
Well this isn't a reman though, it's a "fix this specific problem to get it back to working order". You might notice the price difference between rebuilding it over removing the rust, ain't nobody buying a new reman turbo every time this thing rusts again.
It isn't just the lower sulfur; if the rig has say a 100 gallon fuel tank and it is taking longer than a week to run it out, you are getting water in the fuel- diesel fuel is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts moisture. A smaller tank and more frequent fills could reduce your problem significantly. That or a really good water separator- likely run as a loop in and out of your tank, to pre dewater the fuel on a constant basis. Something needs to be done to reduce the water load, which is where the rust is coming from. FWIW, many OTR tractors have such dewatering devices.
Start using some Archoil diesel treatment to add some lubricity to the fuel and it will help that from rusting up. Diesel fuel in the US is the worst for engines so without treating the fuel your pumps, turbo vanes and injectors are going to suffer wear and corrosion. It will help fuel mileage also. Archoil 6500
i have heard of some guys doing away with the style of turbo for ust that reason not sure what it takes to do so computer re flash or new computer but it is doable
The ultra low sulfur diesel has nothing to do with the turbo rusting. The sulfur was used in the fuel as lubricity for the fuel system and injectors. VGT turbos are great for getting rid of turbo lag. Their downfall is cheap manufacturing process. They can teflon coat and heat treat the turbine housings but it will drive up cost. Regular cast iron rust easy and it is worse in areas with high humidity and being a well drill rig that is constantly around water probably does not help either. That housing is in pretty bad shape. Like others stated contact Area Diesel Service and talk to them.
Just FYI: Lawson Products (Not cheap, but very good stuff) Lubri-Temp Multi Purpose Anti-SEIZE 19921 Temperature range for anti-seize: -30°F to +2,200°F (-34°C to +1,204°C)
This is the downside of VGT turbos. I still personally think they’re worth it, but it is what it is. How it works, as the vanes close, it keeps a certain restriction to the opening that keeps the gas velocity high enough to spin the turbine wheel. Think thumb over the water hose effect. This makes the turbo spool up effectively at lower engine RPM, making it create more power earlier on in the power band.
Think it special inconel HT metal and he's saving 250/hour turbo tech labor! A shot of Mobil jet oil into exhaust before shutdown might stop further rusting. Near rocket science man. I would not replace allen heads screws unless OEM. They could seize otherwise. It's HT special matter.
@@h2omechanic You wouldn't like the turbo lag among other changes in performance. If it's just cleaning it once per year or so, you're better off keeping the VNT.
7:05 Oh GTFO. That is absolute bullshit. You know wells... I'll give you that. But claiming a turbo rusting because sulfur was reduced in the fuel is the dumbest thing I've heard today. Neither diesel NOR the exhaust comes in contact with the area that is corroding. You can replace the cover. It will not stop the corrosion.
Part of October Overload, I'm doing random videos besides the normal to show a different side of things. Plus it's helpful to those with this truck issue
Nice work! It's safe to say that you're significantly better at fixing turbochargers than we are at drilling wells!
@@AreaDieselService I’ve heard lots of good things about area diesel service. If I had a turbo problem, I couldn’t solve area. Diesel service would be by go to people.
@@AreaDieselService why could he not just make those veins open all the time or just replaced that turbo charger with a different one that doesn’t have all that crap on it
C&C Equipment has good service from your products from what I'v seen!
"That´s how my brain perceives it" must be the best line in YT Land. And I am amazed how easy Your turbski came off and apart. You do well at keep being on top of maintance, I love to see that. I like people who appreciate and care for their tools. I can do good work with shitty tools but even better work with nice tools.
Kind Regards
@LaLaLand.Germany I'm a big stickler for proper maintenance, especially if it is in regards to safety. I love to see how stuff functions. Throughout this project I wish I had aToolbox full of organized tools, but @snapontools hasn't reached out yet lol
Well driller, UA-cam producer, AND diesel mechanic? Multitalented!
You forgot RC enthusiast.
As a lot of the people on here said Kurt at Area diesel service can make it new again. Great job
You have a great way explaining what you’re doing.
Will probably never have to fix a turbo, but it's very cool to see it done! Thanks for sharing Phil.
Bolt removal tip: grab a brass hammer or a large brass punch and use it to shock the bolts without damaging them to help get them to move.
The brass hammer has been one of the best adds to my tools for working non rusty stuff.
@@ShannonLandsberger LOL. I use a hammer on the blower motor of my 27-year-old truck that I bought brand new about once a year. It always starts working again.. Yes a hammer is the probably the best tool in a toolbox.
we call that percussion adjustment at work
As the vanes swivel they narrow the passage to accelerate the exhaust gasses and change the angle at which they attack the turbine to accelerate it faster at low engine speeds. At high engine speeds and loads they open to reduce back pressure. Non VNT nozzles only really work well over a narrow range of speeds and loads.
This. Yes. VGTs are awesome when executed well. I think the best ones I have personal experience with are the ones on the 60 Series Detroits. Around 2005ish. That are operated partially by compressed air in trucks. I have only ever had to replace one in 1.25 million miles on this particular engine, and it was my fault. I broke the shaft speed sensor off in the center section, and it did have a bit of play in the shaft, so it got replaced. I had a BAD problem with a 2015 X15 Cummins. It set codes for the VGT actuator, so, boss said put a precalibrated turbo on it. He got a cheapo reman. It lasted less than 50 miles. The truck didn't run again. It was coughing exhaust out of the intake, and burnt valves. I thought it was a possible DPF failure, nope. So I pulled the head. Had a valve job done on it, new seats, guides, springs, the works. Same thing. Wouldn't run, coughing out of the intake. Boss wanted me to pull the head back off. Before doing all that I decided to pull the turbo loose on the manifold. Fired right up. Apparently, the vanes completely shut in the turbo and had the exhaust blocked off so bad it would only run for about 2 seconds, and die from no oxygen. When the exhaust could exhaust, it would run. A new Cummins genuine part # turbo, and she's still going strong a year later.
@@robertschemonia5617 I guess the boss didn't save much money with the cheap reman. I hope he learned his lesson.
@@fascistpedant758 I'd hope so too, but, doubt it. All it will take is him saving money one time and he'll swear that's the only way to go. Bosses, amirite?
Tip: all of those turbo bolts and exhaust manifold bolts, you already have a problem solver on your truck. Its called “copper thread sealer” that you use on your drilling rods. Put that on all of those exhaust bolts and exhaust manifold boats and turbo bolts threads. You will not have any trouble getting them out next time. that stuff works up to 1800° if it’s the same stuff I use on race motor’s and drag boats, etc.. i use loctite brand currently. It is not a thread locker.
I'd pick up a tube of something sold for that purpose rather than take a chance with what he has on the truck.
@@fascistpedant758 He has copper thread sealer on his truck. Next time you watch his video, watch him, put it on the threads of those drilling rods.
@@ronaldrist5985 Granted that copper is copper. But the grease it's mixed into might not be suitable for high temperatures.
@@fascistpedant758 as far as I know, it’s all made for high temperature. I’ve never seen any that wasn’t.
@@fascistpedant758Every anti seize I’ve ever seen the grease burns off or dries out. The copper is what does the work
Machine the step in the housing that you always have to remove the rust from down about .070". Have an 0.063 washer fabricated from 316 SS plate dimensions to match the OD and ID of that area. If you have holes for screws, make matching ones in the SS washer. Place the SS washer in place first and then finish rebuilding the turbo vanes area. Or research a protective coating for the cast iron in that area to reduce or eliminate the rusting.
International sells just a back half kit with the vanes, cheaper than a whole turbo, used to replace them all time when they would get seized up from antifreeze from EGR cooler failures.
You’re going to need to replace that entire cast-iron exhaust housing. Once the rust pits get that bad it’s never going to stop deteriorating plus that unison ring needs a smooth surface to ride on. That’s why it keeps hanging up. I just went through all this with the VGT set up on my truck.
Exactly
If you put a qt of atf in the tank every other fill up, that should help with oiling some of those internal parts. We did it in the army with the humvees.
Area Diesel Service will help with fixing this for good.
Thanks SOOo much for saving the warming earth!! Really the skill set you showed is amazing. I am a ex iH and NIASE cert Heavy mechanic and you are at j💯Journeyman level 💯 Super Mech. Thanks for the great video.
Here's a great, cheap, rust remover:
- 1 gallon water
- 13.3 ounces citric acid (available in the Canning supplies at your local supermarket)
- 8.4 ounces baking soda
- A squirt of liquid dish soap
I used this inside a VERY rusty gas tank and it was amazing. It came out clean! And a heck of a lot cheaper than any commercial product.
Area diesel service may do a collab video for you and save you some money. I did notice the area where the exhaust turbine rides is really thin about to fail. Keep up the video's.
Set up an electrolysis tank to remove the rust completely. Really easy to do. Plenty of guides if you search on Google or UA-cam.
You're into my territory now 😂 VGTs plague the diesel industry, but they're directly related to emissions regulations 😢 I'm not much on PB blaster. My favorite is GMs heat valve lubricant p/n 88862628 . Liquid wrench ain't bad either.
@@WrenchHead fix the problem before you have a problem by using copper thread sealer
Beautiful work. I wonder if it is worth having an extra on the shelf. Also maybe having the troublesome areas nickle plated to reduce rusting?
The best this bought is a atv electric winch. It is small but strong you can bolt it to anything above a small 12 battery. To lift out stuff like that turbo.
to help save pumps , injector's , and all the ware parts i dump 1 quart of ATF in my tank , now i am talking 250 gallon tank's . after 5 years of doing this i can not say it helps but i have not put injectors in or replaced a pump.
Thats why they sell a diesel additive at auto parts stores to get the sulfur and lubricants back into the diesel. It helps on injector life. Its not cheap but saves your engine parts in the long run.
Why didn't you spray the cast iron with rust converter to slow the rust process down?
Can you chemically treat that rusted surface to prevent rust? Like that black oxide coating or something that works at those temperatures?
Talk to area diesel service. Next time you might be able to do most of the work and only pay for the special machining, parts, and fabrication of a permanent fix. I thought i have seen some exhaust side of turbocharger black oxide coated. This is worth a call to area diesel service before it happens again!
I wonder if you could grease it up before putting a new one in. I bet there's also a mixture of deoxogrease that would work best for this thing. Dunno how it would handle the elements if that intake has lots of dirt though. Honestly though you pointed out the inside of the pipe looks nearly spotless. so idk...
I wonder if graphite would help keep that from getting like that and survive the heat?
Probably a bad type of cast iron or excessive exhaust gas temperature. They usually are black with soot which does a good job preventing corrosion.
Another issue is frequent cycling of the actuator helps keep things free. The electronic models do this but only immediately before startup. Giving the engine a full hot supper after warmed up will keep it smooth
How do you connect the 7ft of steel to the plastic lining please? What primer and glue do you use?
Variable vanes on the hot side? That's a TERRIBLE idea. If ya need help contact Area Diesel Service, they will take good care of ya.
It’s a German overengineered design lol
International does this with the 6.0L power stroke and any maxxforce / Navistar engines (blue diamond)
Every diesel engine on the market has the vanes on the exhaust side, lol.
@@retjarhead Well of course. If you have adjustable vanes, they have to be on the hot side, which is a terrible idea. OR you could do what normal people do and have a dumb/waste gate.
@@PurpleFinchFarm Have you ever driven a truck with a variable vein turbo? The power delivery is far superior. Could be as simple as running some diesel additive every once in a while for the older trucks.
There is a lot more to a reman turbo than disassembling the vanes and cleaning. The only parts reused are the outer housing's. Everything internal are replaced with new. Since you have had this problem multiple times it sounds like another issue is causing this one. If the truck is driven with light loads only and is never worked it can cause this issue. Does the drilling rig have it's own engine? If so is it required to run the trucks engine as well?
They probably often have extended periods when the truck isn't used. It gives corrosion time to set in.
Well this isn't a reman though, it's a "fix this specific problem to get it back to working order". You might notice the price difference between rebuilding it over removing the rust, ain't nobody buying a new reman turbo every time this thing rusts again.
Thank you for sharing have a good day
It isn't just the lower sulfur; if the rig has say a 100 gallon fuel tank and it is taking longer than a week to run it out, you are getting water in the fuel- diesel fuel is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts moisture. A smaller tank and more frequent fills could reduce your problem significantly. That or a really good water separator- likely run as a loop in and out of your tank, to pre dewater the fuel on a constant basis. Something needs to be done to reduce the water load, which is where the rust is coming from. FWIW, many OTR tractors have such dewatering devices.
I know it’s an added expense but I run crc diesel cleaner/additive
Is that similar to the 6.o ford?
You can try adding two stroke oil to your diesel fuel
Definitely helps keep injectors clean
Will probably also reduce the rust in the turbo
@@capebee4839 How did you decide to use this and at what amount do you use? What results have you had?
At around 1:200 ratio
There is a lot of information about this on the internet.
Definitely helps keep injectors clean
Get yourself a can of seafoam deep creep. That stuff is better than pb blaster! I love it!
Start using some Archoil diesel treatment to add some lubricity to the fuel and it will help that from rusting up. Diesel fuel in the US is the worst for engines so without treating the fuel your pumps, turbo vanes and injectors are going to suffer wear and corrosion. It will help fuel mileage also. Archoil 6500
new word of the day.... fanangle 👍
i have heard of some guys doing away with the style of turbo for ust that reason not sure what it takes to do so computer re flash or new computer but it is doable
great job
have a great day
Isn't there a way to lubricate those so they don't get rust build up?
The ultra low sulfur diesel has nothing to do with the turbo rusting. The sulfur was used in the fuel as lubricity for the fuel system and injectors. VGT turbos are great for getting rid of turbo lag. Their downfall is cheap manufacturing process. They can teflon coat and heat treat the turbine housings but it will drive up cost. Regular cast iron rust easy and it is worse in areas with high humidity and being a well drill rig that is constantly around water probably does not help either. That housing is in pretty bad shape. Like others stated contact Area Diesel Service and talk to them.
ACE is the place.
i think you can swap them out with a non VGT turbo
No the computer is programmed for vgt set up and use. All IH now have that...fuel effeincy and power band.
@@shadowbanned69Nothing a tune can’t fix
you gotta run archoil 6200 fuel additive
Just FYI: Lawson Products (Not cheap, but very good stuff)
Lubri-Temp
Multi Purpose Anti-SEIZE
19921
Temperature range for anti-seize: -30°F to +2,200°F (-34°C to +1,204°C)
what about z-max in the all oil
Where is your chain hoist?
U could have glass beads blasted the turbo exhaust outer casing rust off. Better than a wire brush in this instance.
Must be nice having outriggers you can take the tires off just about any where.
This is the downside of VGT turbos. I still personally think they’re worth it, but it is what it is. How it works, as the vanes close, it keeps a certain restriction to the opening that keeps the gas velocity high enough to spin the turbine wheel. Think thumb over the water hose effect. This makes the turbo spool up effectively at lower engine RPM, making it create more power earlier on in the power band.
Think it special inconel HT metal and he's saving 250/hour turbo tech labor!
A shot of Mobil jet oil into exhaust before shutdown might stop further rusting.
Near rocket science man.
I would not replace allen heads screws unless OEM. They could seize otherwise. It's HT special matter.
@davegeorge7094 yea I put the cut Allen head back in. She runs like a dream now! Next we will do a new turbo.
Call area diesel service. They will have a permanent solution for you.
Yah they know their diesel!.
Put some ATF in your fuel that will help
We just use evaporust
When you need to pull stuff out like that turbo put your foot in a loop and throw your weight onto it.
Brilliant design, terrible implementation. Have you researched replacing the turbo with a waste gate model?
@duotronic6451 we've talked alot about it. Hard to have the rig down that long.
@@h2omechanic You wouldn't like the turbo lag among other changes in performance. If it's just cleaning it once per year or so, you're better off keeping the VNT.
@@h2omechanic I think 'area diesel service' could send you everything you need which would minimize downtime.
shold talk to Area Diesel Service good job for them with all the rust
a lot of youtubers i follow use area diesel service for Turbo rebuilds etc. when it comes down to rebuild or replace, maybe give them a call?
This is the downside of VGT turbos. I still personally think they’re worth it, but it is what it is.
if its leaking, its got oil 😂😂😂😂
Well.. it is an impeller.
Theres no way to get any oil to them. Bad design. Would swap with a regular waste gate turbo. This is stupid..
I know what's wrong with it.
It an Intertrashinal
13 letter shit spreader, a barnyard Ferrari...!!!
7:05 Oh GTFO. That is absolute bullshit. You know wells... I'll give you that. But claiming a turbo rusting because sulfur was reduced in the fuel is the dumbest thing I've heard today. Neither diesel NOR the exhaust comes in contact with the area that is corroding. You can replace the cover. It will not stop the corrosion.
A design designed to fail :( That much mechanical complexity exposed to hot, humid, corrosive exhaust
It was a good repair video but not on your normal topic. not what most people would do.
Part of October Overload, I'm doing random videos besides the normal to show a different side of things. Plus it's helpful to those with this truck issue
@@h2omechanic Personally, I like the "other topic" videos. Can't imagine I'm the only one, either. : )
Area Diesel Service is literally looking for channels to collaborate with. Just sayin 🤷
With all that damage from rust...buy a new turbo man...thats wasted time you aint gettin payed for....
thanks for fixing my order =) that i messed up on you da man