An old timer once told me try to work on a cold car if possible to prevent cross thread due to metal being pliable cause it's hot. Thanks for the video great info. Great job
Funny. I just changed the oil in a Mazda2 last week, and took note of the motor mount locations - gave it some thought, and carried on. It was cool to come across your video, as it affirmed how I thought it might go. Thanks for filming your work!
The flux capacitor wire is actually a ground wire :) Still very important though, make sure it is clean and tightened properly when you are finished. Bad ground connections will cause all sorts of the wackiest (**not** kidding) electrical problems. In fact, if you ever have wacky electrical issues, especially multiple seemingly unrelated ones, issues dependent on time, temperature or road conditions and/or oddly inconsistent ones, a bad ground connection of some sort should be your first suspect.
I'm pretty sure what you've referred to as the driver's side engine mount is actually the transmission mount. It can be taken off by hand, but you couldnt because you didn't take the weight off the mount with the jack when you first attempted it :-)
It sounds like you have a blown suspension component, also, if you put her in neutral and have someone hit the gas the engine will move within the bay.
Here is a helpful video by another Toober showing the replacement of the lower dogbone mount on the automatic.
ua-cam.com/video/Ok7R90yfgv8/v-deo.html
An old timer once told me try to work on a cold car if possible to prevent cross thread due to metal being pliable cause it's hot. Thanks for the video great info. Great job
Funny. I just changed the oil in a Mazda2 last week, and took note of the motor mount locations - gave it some thought, and carried on.
It was cool to come across your video, as it affirmed how I thought it might go.
Thanks for filming your work!
Your video is amazing! Way better than all the others I watched on motor mounts for my Mazda 2! Seriously!
The flux capacitor wire is actually a ground wire :)
Still very important though, make sure it is clean and tightened properly when you are finished. Bad ground connections will cause all sorts of the wackiest (**not** kidding) electrical problems. In fact, if you ever have wacky electrical issues, especially multiple seemingly unrelated ones, issues dependent on time, temperature or road conditions and/or oddly inconsistent ones, a bad ground connection of some sort should be your first suspect.
I'm pretty sure what you've referred to as the driver's side engine mount is actually the transmission mount. It can be taken off by hand, but you couldnt because you didn't take the weight off the mount with the jack when you first attempted it :-)
Cheers for that! Very handy to learn from your mistakes :)
This answers most of my questions lol can you describe the sounds? Clunky? How about kinda squeaky? Plus crazy vibrations
Your adhd is great lol
I just snapped one of the bolts off my torque strut mount while installing. Wish me luck folks…
Thanks. I need to do this soon! Not sure if my driver's side is bad though.
Good video. I think it’s a good idea to put a block of wood on the jack before lifting it from the oil pan.
Probably actually
Thankyou for sharing the video..very helpful :)
Hi;. What torque spec for the first mount you change? Thank u for video
What were the torque specs?
Torque specs for the motor amount?? For every bolt?
Good video with small jokes, question is how it the engine mount holding up been a non genuine part?
So far the mounts have been working a treat, not a single complaint but it's still early for their lives.
@@octopuscardoor thank man, trying to get all the same brand from febest.
@@speedhead2k and they’re still going.
how can you tell if you need a engine mount or mounts what are the symtoms?
It sounds like you have a blown suspension component, also, if you put her in neutral and have someone hit the gas the engine will move within the bay.
Yeet
This ignorant mechanic never mentions torque spec, thumbs down