"I Should've Gotten A 3hp Saw"
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- There's a lot of "know-it-alls" on the internet and interestingly enough, they don't usually know it all... at all. Contrary to popular belief, you CAN cut a lot of material just fine with a less-than-3hp table saw. Sharp blades with the right tooth geometry for material you are trying to cut, and the type of cutting you are trying to do, and paying attention to your feed rate can go a LONG WAY. Remember, typically 3hp motors and above require 240v service in your shop. For most of us in a home garage, that isn't available. If you have the right type of power for the bigger motor saw, GO FOR IT! I've never heard anyone say "Gee, I wish I would have gotten a tool with LESS power.". But you shouldn't be afraid to get the lesser powered saw either, and in some cases you can upgrade the saw's motor later on down the road anyway.
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My grandfather and father were both master cabinet makers. They used everything from hand tools to routers. The one common thing they drilled into my head is “it’s a poor craftsman who blames his tools.” The upshot of that saying was that a good craftsman will produce quality work regardless of the tools he has. I’m only 70, but I have used a 1.5 hp table saw for 56 years without any problem. I have yet to find a reason why a 3 hp saw will magically make me produce work superior to what I do now. Faster, maybe, but better? I think not. If you have to have a 3 hp saw, get it but don’t expect your woodworking to magically improve. If it did, we’d all own 7.5 hp industrial saws if we cared a whit about quality. Just my $0.02 worth.
Nicely put Richard! I cannot wait until I have 56 years of experience, that's amazing and you're amazing.
I have bosch table saw, and It is about 1750 w. Anything thicker than 2.5 cm(1 inch) cutting hard wood It is frustating experience.
tomo braica then you need another sawblade.
@@samponette3306 You mean don't buy the cheapest blade available, 10inch 30 teeth $ 15 harbor freight special, cut through nails don't change it for 10 years?
Mark Colby well that depends a bit 😁 you certainly do not need the most expensive one. The one that does the job, is fairly stable (preferably very stable) while spinning and sharp.. yes!
I totally agree with you. I recently bought a 1.75 hp table saw and with the right blades it will do everything I need it to do. I'm glad you made this video. I'm sick and tired of the internet know-it-all's. All the new hipster woodworkers that believe you have to own certain tools and equipment to be a relevant woodworker and to fit into their niche circles. It's ridiculous how these men and women post and rave about their fancy tools but very rarely produce a product worth getting excited about. The best woodworkers I know don't talk about much about tools. They share their finished projects, not their bank accounts. The same goes for any successful person in life. They don't need to brag about what they have to impress people. What they accomplish says more at the end of the day. The social media/ Internet culture is very frustrating sometimes. The "Fight Club" quote say's it best "we buy things that we don't need , with money we don't have , to impress people we don't like" .
Why do you care what someone else thinks about your saw? Its a shame that you care enough about these internet commenters opinions to let it make you "sick and tired" Sometimes we buy things we don't need, with money we do have, in order make our own experience more enjoyable. Lets face it - very. very few people "NEED" a table saw at all as most anything we are doing with a table saw could be done with a handsaw- we "Want" table saws because its easier than doing it by hand, or it speeds up our production. the reason you "want" a table saw at all is the same reason another person might "want" a 3 hp cabinet saw.
Gotta be the most insecure post in this thread LMAO.
Literally Nobody cares if you got the 1.75.
If that works for you, cool.
Most of us got the 3HP for the same reason I personally got a larger more expensive CNC router that.. and that is the very sound advice of “buy your second machine first.”
I would agree with that ideology.
I watched this video 2 years ago when it came out. I finally got my Sawstop 1.75 a few months ago and I couldn't be happier! It does everything I need it to and just for fun, I did run some 8/4 Walnut through it with a thin kerf CMT 250.024.10 and it did just fine. Thanks again!
When I saw your thumbnail and title I thought “oh no!” I’m glad you’re still happy with your new saw.
I thought the same thing, click bait?
I'm a General Contractor who has worked for 35 years using "under powered" saws. I have used , and still use many of the basic job site saws, and currently do some damn decent stuff in my shop with an old Delta Contractor saw (1.5 HP, or possibly 1.75). Regardless of the saw, IF you have it tuned properly, use the appropriate SHARP blade for the task and let the blade do the work, you CAN get great results. Those three items are like legs on a stool: you gotta have all three. I am also willing to bet that many of these guys don't even own a RIP BLADE.
I am willing to bet that many commenters on YT aren't even old enough to remember the days when the basic Craftsmen, Delta or Porter Cable Contractors saws were the only option for 80% of the homeowners and woodworkers out there. These were all 1.5 HP motors, and most couldn't even be wired for 220v. My first one did not even have the provision for a blade guard. Only the production shops had a Delta 3-5 HP Unisaw, or the equivalent. Until Grizzly and a few other import knockoffs came on the scene, a 3 horse saw wasn't REMOTELY a possibility for homeowners and the bulk of tradesmen doing this stuff for a living. I have routers now with triple the power of a few of my job site saws, which still get it done ALL WEEK.
LOVE the content, by the way.
Agree with everything you said about your decision. I faced a similar dilemma where I didn’t have the right power in my shop and went with the 1.75 hp. Don’t regret it at all.
Honestly I thought the same thing. “Why didn’t he get the 3hp?” But you’re a pretty smart guy from what I can tell so i figured you had your reasons. This video makes me feel better about my own “underpowered” saw. Thanks for all you do!
"have you been on the fence for a 3 HP?"
Well, the fence is EVERYTHING
I’ve been using the same 2hp contractor saw for the last 35 years and it is still going strong. It takes anything I have ever put through it without complaint. Adding more power would not make me a better wood worker, but some of my shop made additions have made it a better saw.
When I replaced my 1-1/2 hp Jet Hybrid I opted for the 5hp SawStop. Best money I ever spent. NO burning in 10 yrs of use! Made a believer out of me! Ripping 8/4 white oak, its sound doesn’t even change pitch. Crosscuts, rips, dados, tenons,… no stalling, no burning! Just do it! FYI, I typically use a Forrest 50-tooth combination blade, a 40-tooth flat-top ground Ridge Carbide, and Freud’s Glue Line rip blade. The 50-tooth Forrest occupies the arbor 80% of the time.
Congrats on your saw and thank you! You know it’s easy to watch these videos and not be distracted by “tool envy” in the end, people should choose and buy based on their needs and budget. Makes no sense to get something one can’t afford simply to keep up with the Jones’s. Key term here is: “determine needs vs. wants vs. can”. You’re great man. I love your sincerity, directness and demeanor in all your videos and content. Keep up the good work. You know you have a fan here!
I received my 1.75hp PCS last month. I love it and it does everything I need. I’m with you on this, it is so easy to change blades that I can always use the right blade for the job. I can also teach my sons to use it without worrying about tragic accidents. I enjoy watching your work.
Please, please, please teach your sons to use it, and always. always worry about tragic accidents, teach them to use it as if it where any other standard saw- don't let them develop bad habits that might lead to a tragic accident in the future on another saw.
@@kesselrunheroj8497 We always follow safety rules. That spinning blade is still intimidating regardless of safety features. It just provides comfort that there are some built in safety features.
@@wraith2440 I am glad to hear that - "treat every gun as if it is loaded"
Wow thank you for that video! I was looking to get a 3hp and all the electrical that comes with it. You just saved me a ton of money that I can put into my shop elsewhere. Thank you!!
Hooking up a 220v outlet is a pretty basic DIY job. I would guess the majority of woodworkers could easily handle the job. The most expensive part will be the wire, but if you're not going very far that's not much either. Setting up the Sawstop is likely much more complicated than hooking up the outlet needed.
Excellent video, love the subtle humor. I'm a hobby hack guy that likes building stuff out in the garage. I have a Dewalt jobsite saw and have been blown away with what I have been able to do with it. Secret: I keep my blades sharpened by a professional, and I keep them cleaned. Just cleaning the blades a couple times a year is huge for cut performance.
Spot on! I've had the 1.75 hp for a couple of years. The correct blade makes all the difference. I've had 0 problems cutting anything I've thrown at the saw
If only the “dumb information” on the internet was limited to just table saws.
This video helps me out a lot actually. I’ve been researching saw stops for a while and still didn’t know you could upgrade the motors later on down the line. That’s a huge factor in the buying decision. Thanks for the video. 👍🏾
Just keep in mind, you can upgrade the motors on almost all industrial power tools (read - stuff that doesn't have a plastic case). So, whether it is a bandsaw, table saw, jointer, some planers...you can switch out the motors later. The vast majority of companies either sell kits for it - or you can call up an electrician and tell them what you want and they can point you to a local company that will hook you up.
I really like your opinion about this causes,and your down to earth way of making your decisions.Totaly agree with it.Asking the internet about stuff you’re not 100% sure about,leaves you absolutely clueless afterwards if you watch comments in forums etc.Some people can’t be pro something,while not hating other people’s solutions.Keep it your way,it is real and straight,and exactly what your subscribers like about you.
I have a 3HP SawStop and love it...but:
1. With a combination blade, dense Texas hickory will leave burn marks, even with a 3HP saw. It's a sharp blade but it's not the right blade.
2. When you're cutting sheet goods, 1.75HP and 3HP doesn't really matter. I cut sheet goods with my track saw which is around 1HP. It still works fine since I'm using the right blade.
3. A good blade matters more honestly. My next purchase is a solid rip blade from a good blade manufacturer. On a 3HP saw, the right blade for the right task with make work easier.
This is one of the better wood working videos that I've seen. Thank you.
Thanks I am currently on the fence and saving up for a saw so this is great to know.
Here is my take on the subject, as I am in a similar situation currently.
I need to upgrade my saw, but I find it really hard to purchase a 240v saw due to price. I also need a somewhat mobile saw, as in...I need to wheel it into the driveway for each use. 240v would be a little prohibitive due to weight and outlet location. So, my best bet is to get the most powerful saw that will work on a 20a 120v circuit, without needing to sell a kidney on the black market!
My current thought...a Delta 5100T2. About a grand, and has cast wings, so it should be good enough until I have a place for a permanent mounted saw.
I have the same saw and I love it! I recently upgraded it to 220v and it's even better now!
I have been on the fence over this very issue. This is exactly what I needed to hear. THANK YOU!!!
Same with bandsaws. I almost bought a 220V only, 17 inch bandsaw, but at the last moment decided on a 14 inch, 120V, "resaw" version. When I got the saw, I quickly realized that these saws are quite large, my needs didn't include resawing entire trees, and where was I going to put the smaller saw. Blades are everything on bandsaws as well. Much harder to change out however. Great video.
Absolute pearls of wisdom mate. Finally someone who knows what he’s talking about. Thanks. 👍🇦🇺
While I did upgrade to a 5hp SawStop in 2007 prior to that I used a very underpowered Craftsman table saw that I bought new in 1976. You are correct, 1 1/4 hp can do a lot of cutting and SawStop makes it easy to upgrade later. I also love the ease of changing blades on my SawStop plus changing between the blade guard with the riving knife to just a riving knife is even easier.
A big thanks bud! I am currently going the tooling process for my new shop and have been struggling with the same decision. You have made my life a whole lot easier. THANKS
Always appreciate your videos!
I am just about to purchase the 1.75 hp since I also do not have the power to run the 3 hp.
You make a solid argument...use the right tooling for the job!
Amen! I clicked on this ready to make the comment “you need a new blade!” I was in the same boat (no 220v, too expensive to run a sub panel) so I ended up getting the PCS175. I was actually kind of disappointed and starting to regret it, until I switched out the stock blade with a Ridge Carbide Superblade. Then it cut like butter, smooth and burn free. I’m going to be moving into a new shop soon, which will have its own panel so I’ll have 220 available, but honestly I think I’ll stick with the 1.75hp. Dust collection, on the other hand, will get a dedicated 220v circuit. Cheers!
I own several table saws,(7), It is how I feed my wife and myself doing woodwork. My favorite saws are the 113 series Craftsman tools. One I use for a 3/8 inch dado is a three hoss and I think that ts2424 is a hoss and a half, personally I cannot tell much difference. The rest are all plain old one hoss saws. Once I set em up like I need they stay set, I seldom have to adjust one with the exception of a job site saw that likes to dance around. I sharpen the blades when needed but have found keeping them clean is the true secret to a trouble free cut. When I built the shop I ran a couple 240 lines but only use one for the Ridgid saw, the rest are all 120. My wife did the electrical work when we built and remodeled homes and I even let her do some of the shop.
Love this! Thanks for that clarification. It's like the most important tool in the kitchen being a SHARP knife. I'm very new to woodworking and recently ran into the debate about full-kerf vs. thin kerf on my 1.75. Just sent a full-kerf back because so many said it would run down the motor due to the weight difference. The only one who questioned that was the person that I was buying the blade from at a Made in USA company. The blade was beautiful. Ah well, I'm going with their thin kerf for now.
You made a good decision... But you forgot one thing. Besides using the right blade for the job, it is very important to keep your blades CLEAN. Many woodworkers complain of underpowered saws or dull blades when all that is needed is a good cleaning. The difference in performance between a dirty and a clean blade can be staggering. Enjoy your 1.75 PCS and don't look back.
Totally agree, that's another benefit to having several different blades, I make a habit of each time I switch blades on a machine, I give them a quick cleaning.
Absolutely right, especially if you’ve been cutting a lot of dimensional lumber or even treated lumber. A good cleaner can remove all that pitch easily and the blade is almost good as new!
I just ordered my cabinet saw and I was thinking of calling the store in the morning and dropping the extras (mobile base, 36” extension, dado brake) so I could afford the bigger motor.
While the SawStop guys did say I could get a bigger motor later it didn’t really make sense until I heard you say it too. But what made the most sense was reading so many comments here from experienced wood workers that 1.75hp is more than adequate.
I’m not a production woodworker, I’m pretty cautious too because I’m not very strong physically - lots of planning involved on how I’m going to lift/move things. When I talked to the SawStop guy I explained I’m not rich so I’m not likely to be running 8/4 walnut through very frequently; but if I did, it would be really slowly since that stuff is like gold!
Your words about appropriate blades and the ease of changing them out was also very reassuring. The old table saws I’ve been working with I’ve had to wait for my husband to get home to change out my blades for me. (I have to use channel locks to turn the knob to.raise & lower my blade!). The freedom I’ll have to swap out blades mid day! Can’t wait.
You have me super excited about my table saw again! Thank you for this reasonable explanation.
One thing to note is that a thin kerf blade is not recommended for a SawStop because it may negate the main safety feature. The safety cartridge is not designed to work with thin kerf blades.
I have an old contractor style saw with a 1.5HP motor, and for years I thought it was under powered since it would struggle to cut hardwoods or even 2x material. Than I bought a few high quality blades (+$80, full kerf), and guess what? All my problems went away. I recently ripped a bunch of 8/4 white oak with no issues. No marks and the saw didn't struggle one bit. It cuts 3/4 Baltic Birch like a hot knife through butter. Good quality blades make all the difference.
I'm with you! My Delta was 1.5 hp, so the 1.75 is n upgrade. And I need mobility. Can plug it in anywhere in my shop, not just into 220 (we have 220, but my brides kiln is plugged into those 2 circuits.
HUGE help-- thanks! I know it's an older video at this point, but as I've been researching a new table saw (upgrading my original JSS) it's this types of video that's of most value to me. Again, thanks!
Nice video. I have a 1970's Rockwell Delta contractor saw with 20amp real 2HP motor. I use good (forrest, ridge carbide, CMT) full kerf blades. Never had a problem cutting anything. You are dead on.
Your money, buy what you want, explain to no one. Great rant. Keep doing what you do !
I’m new to woodworking and this is a great channel. Keep doing what you’re doing. It’s appreciated!
If you are new to woodworking keep away from all woodworking machinery including hand saws and routers.
Somewhere north of 99% of UA-cam viewers don't leave comments, and those of us who do are generally pretty kind and fair. But an inordinate (IMO) amount of time and energy in content creator videos is consumed by responding to cranks and trolls. This baffles me. I love this channel, and it pains me to witness the grief caused by hooligans and rude people. They're simply not worth the time it takes to respond to them, especially considering the miniscule percentage of viewers that they represent. Jodee, keep on keepin on, my man.
Thank you so much! Now I can get a sawstop- installing 240v is impractical in my situation, so I was about to give up on a sawstop cabinet entirely, because according to the internet it’d be foolish to choose 1.75hp.
Concur! I often use a 1/16” x 8” blade with stabilizers on my Powermatic 64a. Works great! Unfortunately on a Sawstop, the brake will not allow that configuration.
Blade is everything. As long as the blades sharp I’ve cut with 1 hp saws all the wood in the world. You’ll never have a problem.
I appreciate the honest, data-driven, concise video. Thanks. There are a lot of haters out there, and a LOT of clickbait garbage created to do nothing but drive YT's algorithms. It seems like now, more than ever, you have to know a lot to start with to make a good decision. So honest videos like this are refreshing.
My heart broke at the thumbnail, but it was slowly pieced together again. Heart hands 🫂.
In all seriousness, I've seen your content a couple times and like your no-nonsense style. Thanks for the review!
Have been on this same path. adding the new wiring took the sawstop out of my budget. So I went with the 1.75HP. Setting up right now. fingers crossed.
Thanks for your honest and humble opinion. I like how you called out the people bitching, you can never make everyone happy, but you helped me out. I am wondering if i should spend the money I dont have on a 3hp and electrical, but if I can add that on later, then I you just helped me make up my mind and I'm going for the 1.75 for now. Its better than getting a garbage saw that will have to be completly replaced later. I might not need all this saw right off the bat, but I 100 percent agree with you on getting ready for the future. If you have the money, get something good once and don't look back. Thanks
Exactly what I needed to hear when I needed to hear it. Thanks mate
I just bought a Sawstop 1.75 2 months ago ! I agree with you I have not had any issues with this saw ! I have not even used a thin kerf blade even though I have 2. This saw is a beast at 1.75 horse ! I have cut Maple, Red Oak, Walnut, Birch, Plywood, OSB, Cherry, Melimine. I am with you brother. I had a Unisaw 3 horse 10 years ago and my Sawstop 1.75 cuts better than that saw did.
You are 100% correct about the correct blade......I constantly change the blade to the material I am cutting
I'm glad it works for you. I'll just keep ripping 8/4 purple heart with 80 tooth and 3hp.
"...And you guys would have nothing to bitch about." Love it.
I usually tell people not to feed the trolls, but man that was good to hear.
I just bought the same saw. Was making shipman when my old Delta gave out. Put my Dado saw blades on putt 3/8 ×3/8 dad's on both sides of 10 foot 1×6's like it was cutting butter. Love my new saw!
Another plus to the "underpowered saw" is less aggressive kickback in odd situations if you have kids or less experienced users.
You can cut foam with that saw? Wow! I’m still buying the 3hp.
I loved the rant. 240v availability is a big determinant. Anyone thinking about tool selection will know how, I'll say ill-informed, it can be to provide recs for others. Keep up good work, Jody. Your stuff is always "here's what works for me, and why".
I cut thousands of 7/8”x7/8” box joints with a dado on a 1.5 HP Ridgid. Never had an issue related to the power of the saw.
Really, it all comes down to what you like, the power you have available as you mentioned, and if you are comfortable using it which helps you use it safely. I have a Delta Unisaw 3hp and the reason I bought it was because I used one in the on base hobby shop while in the military and was comfortable using it and trained in its safety features. I bought it prior to the internet being a place to voice everyone's opinion on everything and still love using it today.
I have the delta you buy at lowes and some three good quality blades, has handled everything nicely. Would I love a big powerful one, sure, but that thing cuts wonderfully and has a steady and accurate fence.
Thanks for the video it helped a lot to decide on power. I will buy the 1.75 HP.
Sounds like the woodworking world’s equivalent of “needing” to have a dually Cummins diesel.
I wasn’t even aware that I should have been concerned that I only have a 1.75hp. I run my saw hard and it’s only ever struggled once - cutting a really deep 45° bevel on a not-so-straight board. But I do have a nice collection of appropriate blades. I think your money is better spent there than on more power you may only ever need a few times. Like buying high quality tires for your truck
A 1.5hp saw is perfect for anyone who works out of their house. The only ones who need a 3hp or larger saw is for those who do a mass production on an item that doesn't really change much but need the power to pump out high numbers in 1 day.
I have the 1 3/4 hp delta from Lowe’s, the line of CMT ITK blades. When that saw is dialed in, it’s really quite amazing. I’ve resawed oak, maple, walnut and cherry, can get glue line rips with no up/down method, 6 quarter has been no problem in any of those species
I have used both 1.75 and 3hp for multiple projects and never could tell the difference. The thickest I ever ripped was 8/4 cherry on the 1.75hp and it was fine. Blades definitely make all the difference.
Good points on the saw blades and great decision on the table saw. I too purchased the 1.75 SawStop and couldn't be happier with the quality of saw and cuts. I did upgrade to the 240v because I kept tripping breakers with the shopvac/dust collection (I have a fridge and other things in my garage pulling voltage). So I ran my own 240v line from my breaker. worked well for me. But stick to your guns against those nay-sayers.
THANK YOU! I've been looking at the hp on all these cabinet saws and wondered whether 3hp was necessary. I have a 220v connection, but I use my window AC for that and I would have to unplug it to use the saw. Thanks a million.
Thanks, great video as always!!! As with all power tools, it's the cutter that does the work!... As long as your cutting tools are sharp, you can go a very long way with "underpowered" tools!
The riving knives on several 'underpowered' saws don't play well, at all, with thin kerf blades. Agreed with the rant. And future proofing.
I agree with you about the riving knives on “underpowered” saws, but a quick fix is to take it off and sand both sides down till it’s about 10-15 tho under the size of your thin blade.
I’m going to pick up a 1997 grizzly G 1023 3hp cabinet table saw with extension table. This lady I know husband passed away so she sold me this cabinet table saw and the festool Kapex for $600. I feel bad getting it so cheap, but she just wanted it to have a good home!
I agree with you 100% A saw blade is just a bunch of small chisels, a sharp correctly sized chisel is much easier to control and requires less force than a dull incorrectly sized one.
Love your vids, I also have a small garage shop with limited power options.
Not sure if this has already been covered but can we get a video to better understand all the blade/tooth configuration that was referenced so better understand?
I’m working on it. I have a whole bunch of different blades that I’m testing but it just takes time to run them through their paces. Stay tuned!
@@InspireWoodcraft Thank you! Cant wait!
I just got the 3 hp SawStop, and I’m glad I’d did. I do have 220 in my shop, because my old Rigid was wired for 220, so there was no extra expense.
For me, it wasn’t just the power - my old saw cut fine and I’m particular about my blades. It was because the over the blade dust collection was $185.00 Canadian plus it was better than I could make by myself, AND the 220v conversion brought me within $300.00 of the fully integrated bigger motor, when I compared the 1.75 to the 3 hp job.
Strictly economics.
1:40
Regarding the 240 V (a couple people have already pointed this out in the comments), if you have 120 V, you have 240 V, and you don''t need an electrician to do it for you. Once you've done the research to learn how to do it per code, you'll be amazed by how simple it is. You then can spend the money saved to buy any blades you'd like, and use them on a 3HP saw, i.e. you can have the best of the two worlds, AND the peace of mind that no one can out-do you without a Felder-level budget.
I have a 1/2hp 9" beaver rockwell circa 1970s weighing in at about 65kg/145lbs. My "underpowered" saw doesn't have a splitter or riving knife, nor does it need one. I'll sooner stall the motor/blade than experience a kickback. I have to go real slow ripping sugar maple, or even 1" of pine. I am using a combination blade, 9" blades are not common and more expensive than 10". My last/first saw was a 3/4hp 10" that did have a riving knife, but I've stalled that too when ripping 4x4 without the riving knife. That table was so light, I had a kickback with 1/2" sheet plywood, the saw tipped backwards. I'm glad physics was on my side that day. I could carry it with one hand, weighing in at only 21kg/47lbs.
Great video, dude! I totally agree.
And there's another point you didn't talked about. There are people who force the material through the tools instead of respecting it's capability.
For example, I have a really small and "portable" table saw I got from my cousin... It hardly has 1hp. You know? But I do every kind of work with it, with no problems. I just feed the material as the saw asks for it.
If you force the material against the blade the only thing you're going to get is a burned motor or even worse: a pretty bad accident!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Love your content! I’ve been using an under powered saw for 20 years!
My shop area is at the far end of the house from the electric entrance panel. I installed a subpanel and ran three two-leg circuits (240V) through oversized PVC conduit 60 feet. Now I run my radial arm saw, dust collector, and Sawstop contractor saw on 240. Rewiring the Sawstop was a giant pain in the tushy, but I feel better running the 1.75 hp (1305W) motor at nominal 5.5 amps than at 11 amps.
(Anyone who has done non-trivial wiring or plumbing knows why electricians and plumbers are such expensive gods. There are still twinges of pain in my tushy after two years.)
Yep absolutely agree with you, I have a 1100w (1.5hp - sorry I’m Australian) and it chews thru everything I put thru it with no issues what so ever, like you said clean sharp blade and the correct blade for the task at hand, peace out and stay safe
I could not agree more. I have a 1.75HP motor on my saw and it works great for everything. When I work on a piece of 8/4 stock, I do have to slow down my feed rate so not to over tax the motor. Otherwise, no issues. I also do regular blade cleanings, sharpenings and replacements to insure blades are able to do the job for which they were designed.
I run a full kerf, flat top, 24 tooth blade on my Delta 36-725, which is a 1.5hp saw, through hardwood all the time and it has no issues. Runs great.
This def helped me make my decision. Thank you very much!
In 1985 I bought a 5hp 12" table saw made in Taiwan. It was $1500 USD. It had a sliding table and a 1 " arbor.
In 5 minutes of use on 3/4 pine the motor burned up. I called the dealer, he called the importer/distributor who said piss up a rope, you're an owner, deal with it. The dealer , Santa Rosa Tool in Calif stepped to the plate and offered to pay to have the motor rebuilt. I lived 150 miles away. Took the saw to a local pro motor repair/builder. He said the motor was at best 2 hp and crap windings and bearings. They rebuilt the saw for $115 to a full American 3 hp.
It has now been running well for over 35 years. Don't trust HP ratings from machines made in Asia. Don't assume you have quality wiring or bearings. As their are 12 battery manufacturers in the US and hundreds of brands, there are a few machine makers in Taiwan and China and hundreds of brands. US greedy importers specify the quality and pass it on to you. Do not assume you are getting what you pay for .. to include all the major brands such as Powermatic, Saw Stop, Power Matic etc.
Great video! This is no different then people that critique cars, bikes, tools or anything else. When it’s your checkbook you buy what you want until then keep quiet 🤫 I have the same saw and have had absolutely no issues!
Well said and I support your views on this. I am fortunate to have a 3hp saw but I didn’t start out with this expensive saw. I also made some good products with that old starter saw., and I made some money doing so. Enjoy your tasks and stay safe, as woodworkers you will be fine.
What dem arms on the table Jodee!!!! Will you never learn!!!! Oh wait, you insulated your garage. Never mind, carry on. 🤣
If your main service panel is 150 or 200 Amps, or more, it's not too hard to add a subpanel yourself.
That’s what I did. I figured a shop needs 240v or you’re always making compromises.
This is the video of the week!!! Thanks!!! Great information!
It's amazing how everyone else alway's has an opinion about what YOU'RE doing WRONG, but if you turn it around and ask them what they are using the answer will either be " I'm not using anything or I don't do this type of thing "!!!.
All that matters is that your happy with your choices and sod off to the critics!!! 💯% 👍🇬🇧
I can’t wait to get a sawstop! I’m using a really old ridgid job site saw. I can leave burn marks in poplar with that bad boy lol! That said it doesn’t stop me from getting the job done and never will. Glad you found a silver lining continue to do great work and be happy.
I have been wanting a 3HP saw for a long time, however, I have come to the realization that my statement is true as it is, I have been wanting. My original Fusion from Laguna, 1.75HP does everything I need it to.
Being in the military and moving every couple years, that may be something I will do when I finally settle in the last place I move.
I too just resawes 6" cherry with my 1.75HP 110-120V saw using a thin kerf CMT 24t rip blade, I did not feel underpowered at all.
About a year ago I refurbished a General 350 cabinet saw, I had the choice of using the original (rebuild) 1 1/2 @ 240 VAC or a newer 3 hp motor, I decided to give the original motor a try. So far I have yet to regret my decision after cutting the typical woods in a hobbyist shop. I did rip some 2 x 10 down to get straight grained boards, yes I did have some burning but that was more from the my set up than the saw motor.
0:26 I know you have a riving knife which provides some sideways control, but to ensure that 1x stays upright, you can add a downstream featherboard (not super tight), i.e., after the blade, because you are not actually ripping the piece in two. I use downstream ("out") featheboards in that circumstance, and also if I'm just shaving some material off the side of the stock and not actually ripping. I make various molding profiles on my table saw so I frequently use both in and out featherboards both for safety and to ensure consistent profiles. I usually stack featherboards because molding widths can be several inches high going through.
I am with you the right well maintained blade = a good cut. I used a 70's era craftsman contractor saw with a 1.5 HP motor for 15 years and as long as I used the proper blade and it sharp I had no problems.
Finally someone had enough balls to shut up those other people who have more money to waste than experience to rely on, I've been using a 1 1/2 hp delta for maybe 10 years and before that a lousy craftsman table saw for 40 years ,and never had an issue. Of course I always dreamed of getting a 3 hp cabinet saw primarily to keep more of the dust under the saw instead of all over me and the floor but from what I have seen none of these so called wonder saws can totally eliminate the dust sufficiently enough to justify spending 2 to 3 thousand dollars. Not to mention alot of those saws have either parts missing or set up problems. I think I'll stick with my delta, then get another delta and out a dedicated dad blade on it and use it as an out feed table to boot .
I opted for a Grizzly 2.0 hp saw for the exact same reason you picked your saw, not enough juice in my garage and too expensive to put in a new box for the 3.0 hp saw. I mostly make furniture and kitchen cabinets and my 2.0 hp saw works great considering I used a 1.5 hp contractor saw for about 15 years before I opted for a new saw. I remember making cherry book cases for our sunken living room when we remodeled and I had no problem cutting the shelving with my old contractor saw. I did use a new blade and I never use the same blade for years (I have some friends who do) and it was fine. I am retiring for my second time soon and I plan to move to woodworking more with my son do some small projects so I think my choice will work out fine. Thanks for the video.
Grizzly 2.0 HP saw is every one else's 1 3/4. Check it out or have an electrician check it.
I wish I had these problems. 3 hp sawstop?! Yeesh! I'm bangin' the little yellow jobsite saw. Maybe someday I'll be lucky enough to have bigger problems.
Seriously, though, this is some good advice. And the comments are good, too. There's always a "work around" for those willing to get a project done.
Using a Table saw is really about 3 things The right blade A sharp clean blade and tip speed - if you do not over feed the material or try ripping with a crosscut blade your be fine, you may over load the circuit the saw is on or may need to have a dedicated 20 amp circuit. Use the saw within its designed ability.
Nailed iiiiiiit!!!! I have been using an old Craftsman Contractors saw with an Incra fence - ALL PROPERLY ADJUSTED - and I cut 2" material all day long. Use the right blade for what you are doing - don't be lazy and change to the correct blade, and bingo...........
I don't have a bandsaw!,
and I do the re sawing on my table saw I just make multiple passes and raise the blade gradually.
I did have over load issues in the binging but at the time I didn't know about doing it the right way, so now I do a search first of I can get from the tools I have.
and nice people like you make easy. thanx a bunch
The "famous" James Krenov said that if he had only two power tools it would be a band saw and a jointer.. no need for a table saw.