Another point to consider, when printing, the layer cures to your model and the FEP at the same time, on every layer. Then, when the print platform raises after each layer, there is a 'tug of war' between the print and the FEP and if the FEP wins, your print can fail. So that's another reason to be sure not to have long, skinny supports going alllll the way down to the build plate. Because even if they somehow manage to stay straight and in place, when they eventually get the model parts added to them at their tip, that long skinny support is all that is involved in this tug of war and the FEP is more likely to 'win' and pull the support right off your model. Also something you didn't touch on in your point about reducing footprint by angling the model (to ease the peel off the build plate at the end of the print), I like to add a raft with a beveled edge under a model, raise the entire model up 5mm on the Z axis, and run the supports down to the raft. The beveled edge on the raft makes it very easy to knock the print off the build plate with the corner of the scraper, regardless of the size of the base. This way, you don't always have to angle the model just for the sake of ease of parts removal after the print, you only need to angel the model when it's necessary for print quality.
Just getting into resin printing and your walk-through beginning at 13:47 of what happens to light supports left alone and unsupported for too much distance was something I never considered. It seems so obvious after watching the explanation, but sometimes you just don't think of it when setting up the supports in the slicer. Thanks for putting that together!
It's funny that you bring this up. Because I was just looking at and remembering the Anycubic Test Print, and how it basically, like you said, does not have any supports. And I would like to learn how to make supports that are not overdone, because I think that my supports are definitely more than are necessary. Thank you for the video (still watching).
I've been resin printing for only 3 months, I've tried auto supports with Lychee, Chitubox and Tango. The print failed with Lychee and Chitubox but worked fine in Tango. I hate auto support, but I would love to have Tango auto support options in Lychee. I love the option in Tango to choose auto support settings for, speed, quality or balanced blend. But I use Lychee Pro, I love it's all around features.
Hello. Uncured viewer here. Picked up my first printer and resin today I had heard about supports But this video was excellent in teaching me about them!
I've just got my 3D printer 4k photo the slicers are very confusing when starting out I then found the lychee last week and it's absolutely fantastic so user friendly easy to use compared to anycubics anyway and touch wood I've not had a failed print since using it!
To build a strong support pillar, you're much better off having 3 small pillars in a triangle layout and braced than to have 2 medium pillars that can still flex in two directions. You'll save some resin too.
"Add supports to all islands" is your friend, as well as 'alt & left mouse click'. You can also save a ton of work by shutting off 'Auto Lift Height' and setting it to 0 (zero) in Configuration/Auto support and printing that type of model with a large flat base. It's not that hard to start the removal from the build plate with a straight razor with a handle, then Lift it off with a scraper
That was excellent mate learnt alot there! I'm new to 3D printing I just got my photo 4k a few days ago but lychee is definitely working for me and this is just going to better it! I've not gone for the pro version as alot in basic and pro is very expensive for a yearly subscription that's my only grip with these selling pro versions! Well subscription pro versions why can't just buy it like tho old days one off payment download and its yours! But anyway great tutorial this definitely has alot of the missing need to know basics for starting out alot professionals or more experienced seem to think you should know this already!.
glad for this. lot of the "Bigger players" like uncle jessy lock their good result numbers behind a paywall.. glad to see you doing good work here for the benefit of all rather than steal cash lol
Very informative, but maybe try to bring more structure into your video as you jumped from one thing you were trying to say to the other most of the times and the length of the video is a little too long
Yes great topic and info but man stop rambling on and on and on and on and on and on....... get too the point and move on, we all get the drift, even us guys that are brand new too this software. Listening too you repeating and slow talking is about as exciting as siting and watching a 7 hour print job!!! Other then that thanks for taking the time too make this video!!!
No that was just perfect I'm a dumb ass when comes to this and followed it no problem and learnt a heck of a lot thanks! Ramble on this is what is needed a good explanation into it not just oh do this do that put this here etc perfect video!
Well, it looks like you just need to add supports to "high points" points or ares of the model that will eventually connect to the rest of the model, but appear in the print initially separated from the plate and the main model.
When I first printed this raven skull model I not only missed some important islands and overhangs, but I also really botched the resin drain holes on my first attempt. The second try came out a lot better. Experimenting and learning is the part of the fun! Thanks for watching.
I like to start with Fast and fine tune from there. I find that not every single island needs to be fixed but you have to definitely sort the large and severe ones. Thanks for watching!
Hi, I am interested in purchasing a Resin 3D printer. What type of printer are you using in this video? And, would this be big enough to create wearable helmets/masks. I am new to 3D printing and only now learned of the resin printers. I would love to make my own prop replicas, but would like a machine big enough to print large parts. Thank you for your time and I enjoyed your video.
I believe he mentions somewhere in the first 20 minutes that it’s an Anycubuc Mono X. You can check out their website to find the dimensions of the build plate and height (the product of both is build volume). Anycubic and Elegoo are two popular makers of economical printers that are also decent quality. Resin printing has a lot of upsides. However, setup and cleaning are more involved and require more tools and consumables than traditional PLA printers.
You've probably purchased a printer by now, but as Gatman1202 mentioned, Resin requires a lot of cleanup and I would not recommend the chemicals used for items that will be in contact with your body. You may be better off with a filament printer so you can print PLA, TPU, or even ABS if you had to.
Hello, Supports definitely take some getting used to. Try to picture your model printing upside down, you can see this in the Lychee preview. Each piece has to be connected to the build plate in some way. Either by a support, or by the model itself. If any angle is too extreme, it has to have a support. The default Anycubic cube is a great way to visualize this. Because the cube is sitting on one corner, with each edge connected to the base, there is a place for the layers to build upon. Here's another way to visualize it. An upside down T would likely need support, where an upside down Y will print without issue.
I've found virtually no "support" videos on youtube actually tell you anything and there are virtually no beginner level guides that are actually for beginners. FDM you can get people explaining random crap on a setting you'll never use but resin good luck finding out what FEP means from a 30 minute video.
Has anyone ever encountered unusually thick supports directly extended from the resin print? It's like a glitch and I have been getting then lately. It's a pain since I can only remove them by sanding. I'm using Lychee slicer
I haven't had that happen. Are you using auto supports? Auto will try to best guess the diameter of supports and could be making them too thick. Do the supports look normal in Lychee before you export? You can also highlight all the supports and you can change the tip dimensions. Hope it works out & thanks for watching.
@@renaissancelaboratories5645 I found out why. I asked in Lychee slicer's discord and someone said manifold errors causes those thick pillars. Coming from FDM printing, manifold errors and holes don't cause any issues. But it seems for SLA it does. Dont get me wrong, i always click "repair" before I print, obviously. But sometimes the free version of Lychee doesn't fix certain, perhaps more complex manifold errors. Hence I thought, "I tried, whatever" and went on and print them. They can be easily repaired by remeshing as solid in Meshmixer, thats what I do. No more issues after that.
This is great to know. I use Meshmixer myself to repair problematic models, but I also usually have success just clicking "repair" in Lychee and printing even if some issues remain. Thanks for sharing the info and for watching!
It’s a shame you didn’t take out the white noise in the background. There’s free software out there like “Audasity” that’s pretty much three clicks to fix it.
You could of just built a support from another support and fanned it out with 2 or 3 extra supports in that area no need to go down to the build plate at all.
Yes indeed. Sometimes the supports are intended to hold up model overhangs, sometimes you need more connections to the build plate to help the model adhere as it's building. Thanks for watching!
![3D resin print supports [EASY GUIDE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MU0Cq_bjhy4/mqdefault.jpg)
![3D resin print supports [EASY GUIDE]](/img/tr.png)
Another point to consider, when printing, the layer cures to your model and the FEP at the same time, on every layer. Then, when the print platform raises after each layer, there is a 'tug of war' between the print and the FEP and if the FEP wins, your print can fail. So that's another reason to be sure not to have long, skinny supports going alllll the way down to the build plate. Because even if they somehow manage to stay straight and in place, when they eventually get the model parts added to them at their tip, that long skinny support is all that is involved in this tug of war and the FEP is more likely to 'win' and pull the support right off your model.
Also something you didn't touch on in your point about reducing footprint by angling the model (to ease the peel off the build plate at the end of the print), I like to add a raft with a beveled edge under a model, raise the entire model up 5mm on the Z axis, and run the supports down to the raft. The beveled edge on the raft makes it very easy to knock the print off the build plate with the corner of the scraper, regardless of the size of the base. This way, you don't always have to angle the model just for the sake of ease of parts removal after the print, you only need to angel the model when it's necessary for print quality.
I ran into the print sticking to the FEP. I'm going to put some PTFE lube on it, and then stop at the store to pick up some alphabet soup.
Just getting into resin printing and your walk-through beginning at 13:47 of what happens to light supports left alone and unsupported for too much distance was something I never considered. It seems so obvious after watching the explanation, but sometimes you just don't think of it when setting up the supports in the slicer. Thanks for putting that together!
It's funny that you bring this up.
Because I was just looking at and remembering the Anycubic Test Print, and how it basically, like you said, does not have any supports.
And I would like to learn how to make supports that are not overdone, because I think that my supports are definitely more than are necessary.
Thank you for the video (still watching).
I've been resin printing for only 3 months, I've tried auto supports with Lychee, Chitubox and Tango. The print failed with Lychee and Chitubox but worked fine in Tango. I hate auto support, but I would love to have Tango auto support options in Lychee. I love the option in Tango to choose auto support settings for, speed, quality or balanced blend. But I use Lychee Pro, I love it's all around features.
Hello. Uncured viewer here.
Picked up my first printer and resin today
I had heard about supports
But this video was excellent in teaching me about them!
I'm glad you found it helpful! Thanks for watching!
I've just got my 3D printer 4k photo the slicers are very confusing when starting out I then found the lychee last week and it's absolutely fantastic so user friendly easy to use compared to anycubics anyway and touch wood I've not had a failed print since using it!
That is great news, enjoy 3D printing!
To build a strong support pillar, you're much better off having 3 small pillars in a triangle layout and braced than to have 2 medium pillars that can still flex in two directions. You'll save some resin too.
Thanks for the video! Just got my printer last week and this video was very helpful.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Thanks, i learned some things i did not know yet!
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching.
"Add supports to all islands" is your friend, as well as 'alt & left mouse click'. You can also save a ton of work by shutting off 'Auto Lift Height' and setting it to 0 (zero) in Configuration/Auto support and printing that type of model with a large flat base. It's not that hard to start the removal from the build plate with a straight razor with a handle, then Lift it off with a scraper
That was excellent mate learnt alot there! I'm new to 3D printing I just got my photo 4k a few days ago but lychee is definitely working for me and this is just going to better it! I've not gone for the pro version as alot in basic and pro is very expensive for a yearly subscription that's my only grip with these selling pro versions! Well subscription pro versions why can't just buy it like tho old days one off payment download and its yours! But anyway great tutorial this definitely has alot of the missing need to know basics for starting out alot professionals or more experienced seem to think you should know this already!.
Glad it was helpful, thank you for watching.
glad for this. lot of the "Bigger players" like uncle jessy lock their good result numbers behind a paywall.. glad to see you doing good work here for the benefit of all rather than steal cash lol
Thanks for watching!
Very informative, but maybe try to bring more structure into your video as you jumped from one thing you were trying to say to the other most of the times and the length of the video is a little too long
Thanks for the tips and constructive feedback! Noted and I'll keep working to refine my videos. Thanks for watching.
Yes great topic and info but man stop rambling on and on and on and on and on and on....... get too the point and move on, we all get the drift, even us guys that are brand new too this software. Listening too you repeating and slow talking is about as exciting as siting and watching a 7 hour print job!!! Other then that thanks for taking the time too make this video!!!
No that was just perfect I'm a dumb ass when comes to this and followed it no problem and learnt a heck of a lot thanks! Ramble on this is what is needed a good explanation into it not just oh do this do that put this here etc perfect video!
Thanks, bloody obvious when you think about it LOL, very useful video.
Great vid. Definitely deserve more subs.
I appreciate that! I'm trying to make some interesting and atypical content. Thanks for watching.
Your videos are super good and useful! Thank you
Glad you like them!
HEY, COULD YOU HELP ME TO FIND THE RIGHT SUPPORT?
Well, it looks like you just need to add supports to "high points" points or ares of the model that will eventually connect to the rest of the model, but appear in the print initially separated from the plate and the main model.
Ah....islands.. there's a name...he he he. I'm new to this.
When I first printed this raven skull model I not only missed some important islands and overhangs, but I also really botched the resin drain holes on my first attempt. The second try came out a lot better. Experimenting and learning is the part of the fun! Thanks for watching.
great info
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching!
But why only use the Fast detector? It usually only finds like 30% of islands for me.
I like to start with Fast and fine tune from there. I find that not every single island needs to be fixed but you have to definitely sort the large and severe ones. Thanks for watching!
Hi, I am interested in purchasing a Resin 3D printer. What type of printer are you using in this video? And, would this be big enough to create wearable helmets/masks. I am new to 3D printing and only now learned of the resin printers. I would love to make my own prop replicas, but would like a machine big enough to print large parts. Thank you for your time and I enjoyed your video.
I believe he mentions somewhere in the first 20 minutes that it’s an Anycubuc Mono X. You can check out their website to find the dimensions of the build plate and height (the product of both is build volume). Anycubic and Elegoo are two popular makers of economical printers that are also decent quality. Resin printing has a lot of upsides. However, setup and cleaning are more involved and require more tools and consumables than traditional PLA printers.
You've probably purchased a printer by now, but as Gatman1202 mentioned, Resin requires a lot of cleanup and I would not recommend the chemicals used for items that will be in contact with your body. You may be better off with a filament printer so you can print PLA, TPU, or even ABS if you had to.
Also, yes i have the Mono X and also the Anycubic Vyper.
Came in confused left in worst shape smh
Hello,
Supports definitely take some getting used to. Try to picture your model printing upside down, you can see this in the Lychee preview. Each piece has to be connected to the build plate in some way. Either by a support, or by the model itself. If any angle is too extreme, it has to have a support. The default Anycubic cube is a great way to visualize this. Because the cube is sitting on one corner, with each edge connected to the base, there is a place for the layers to build upon.
Here's another way to visualize it. An upside down T would likely need support, where an upside down Y will print without issue.
I've found virtually no "support" videos on youtube actually tell you anything and there are virtually no beginner level guides that are actually for beginners. FDM you can get people explaining random crap on a setting you'll never use but resin good luck finding out what FEP means from a 30 minute video.
Has anyone ever encountered unusually thick supports directly extended from the resin print? It's like a glitch and I have been getting then lately. It's a pain since I can only remove them by sanding. I'm using Lychee slicer
I haven't had that happen. Are you using auto supports? Auto will try to best guess the diameter of supports and could be making them too thick. Do the supports look normal in Lychee before you export? You can also highlight all the supports and you can change the tip dimensions. Hope it works out & thanks for watching.
@@renaissancelaboratories5645 I found out why. I asked in Lychee slicer's discord and someone said manifold errors causes those thick pillars. Coming from FDM printing, manifold errors and holes don't cause any issues. But it seems for SLA it does. Dont get me wrong, i always click "repair" before I print, obviously. But sometimes the free version of Lychee doesn't fix certain, perhaps more complex manifold errors. Hence I thought, "I tried, whatever" and went on and print them. They can be easily repaired by remeshing as solid in Meshmixer, thats what I do. No more issues after that.
This is great to know. I use Meshmixer myself to repair problematic models, but I also usually have success just clicking "repair" in Lychee and printing even if some issues remain. Thanks for sharing the info and for watching!
It’s a shame you didn’t take out the white noise in the background. There’s free software out there like “Audasity” that’s pretty much three clicks to fix it.
Thanks for watching and for the helpful feedback! Will work on audio quality.
Why not just have one big hole?
when your object is hollow, you need a hole for air to go in and 1 for resin to run out of. If you only have 1 hole the resin get trapped inside easy.
Yes indeed. Hole placement can be a tricky balance between good drainage and not making too many holes. Thanks for watching!
You could of just built a support from another support and fanned it out with 2 or 3 extra supports in that area no need to go down to the build plate at all.
Yes indeed. Sometimes the supports are intended to hold up model overhangs, sometimes you need more connections to the build plate to help the model adhere as it's building. Thanks for watching!