Haha well I hope you enjoy good sir! You're probably the last person who needs this video, but I very much appreciate you checking it out all the same :) If you spot anything I missed or have any useful tips and tricks to add then please don't hesitate to share!
@@OnceinaSixSide oh I am a firm believer that you can never be so good at something that you can't improve. I'm always excited to hear how others have refined a process to make it work for them. I always learn something useful. 😊
The part about the deformation at 9:18 is spot on, I noticed this a lot printing minis with bases, the bases always have a tear drop shape when printing on an angle. Like you I found out that putting many more supports on that bottom edge helps eliminate that deformation. Sometimes there is still a tiny bit but its much improved.
“Center the area you’re working on to the middle of the build plate” great idea, so much easier. Thanks! Any chance you could do a video on installing and using UV tools? 🙏 Edit, made this before we got to the UV tools bit. 😅
I just bought a Mars 3 Pro (thanks to the awesome black friday sale). While i'm waiting for the delivery ive been bingeing youtube for videos about the hobby. most of them on the super beginner "what is 3d printing" style and a few about exposure settings and test plates. Knowing a bit of photography the knowledge transfers over pretty well. it all seemed so easy. Showing the deformed base and angling it made made sense to me. And when you showed the slices going up through the floating fingertips to the hand i suddenly had an epiphany, and finally realised how important good supports are, its so much more than just clicking auto, tweaking them a bit and hitting print.
I have for years been recommending a much older video by 3d printing pros, but this updates his, and is much more explanative for why and how. I support 100% just like you do, and dont plan on switching to lychee either. Chitu works and honestly does a few things for free that lychee doesnt do for free. Bridging between supports is a plus. I tend to add more supports in the middle of the base than you do, but I feel like sanding the base flat fixes any weirdness that comes from extra supports. I also dont hollow bases, I feel like some extra weight to keep the models flat is worth the cost of the extra resin. Great job and Ill share this one with the team.
Can I just say, I am glad to finally find a guide that actually deals with deformation of large flat objects. I've been trying for some time now to make some custom bases for my mini's, but they would always come out warped slightly or needing a LOT of sanding to make the bottom actually flat.
I really want to thank you for such a fantastic and in depth view into the process. It was very informative and a joy to watch. I know the video has been out for a while, but.. anybody know where i can buy that model, its pretty cool.
This is a great way to add supports when you sell models, but I couldn't imagine spending this kind of time when you are just printing stuff at home. Like you, I notice often, presupported models are usually terribly done. But, when I do supports, I rarely use heavy except for bottom parts, and never use medium. I use autosupports and then go nuts with adding light supports where I think it might need them. Maybe I have a failure once in 20 prints. That said. I definitely like the explanations for why certain supports are needed. I never considered suction cup issues at all. Spent a night watching all your videos before coming back to this longer one. My biggest issue is less supports, and more pieces fitting together when resizing to smaller models. Why have keys or tabs if i just have to cut them off before assembly. Subscribed to your channel.
His "heavy" supports are more like medium supports in the slicer preset. He is not using stock settings. His light support has contact of 0,26mm, medium 0,45 mm and heavy are 0,55mm. Contact depth of 0,2mm for each.
Thanks again my dude. I'm still working my way through the basing part but it's identifying something I already thought was an issue. Whenever I've seen these big centre piece models on bases. They should have been base toppers not entire bases as the end users could salvage a bad printed base topper so much more easily than a failed base; especially one that has deformed.
Thanks for stopping by :) Yeah big bases can be a hit or miss, at the very least providing a base topper in addition to an all-in-one would be great to see.
BTW I did watch all the way through and you did a great job of show don't tell when it came to illustrating why success through failure is important with these sorts of projects.
@@DanielVisOneCade Thank you very much! I'm glad to hear it :) Part of me wanted to edit that out and just show deliberating on the orientation, then cut to deciding on the right one but in the end I figured it was better to leave failure in.
Outstanding video. And a worthwhile campaign. I am new to 3D printing, from the plastic injection modelling world. It is amazing that designers get away with just sculpting something in CAD without, apparently, any thought about manufacturer. We, the printers, are 100% responsible for production engineering. That can't be right.
Awesome Video! Thanks Dude! Chitubox V2 has something similar to UV tools integrated now? With the possibilty to remove all islands by one click, but i guess you will loose a lot fo visibel details with? And i would say Chitubox is more precise now with finding unsuported areas as Lychee. Cause when Lychee says everything is fine now, i exported the suported file as stl and reopen it in Chitubox and made a scan in high quality and there are still a lot of unsuported areas. After suporting them i sliced it and can run another scan for Islands after and i was pretty suprised that Chitubox still found more then 80 Islands.
This is the kind of stuff that this platform needs and excels, the sharing of in depth info about technical stuff!! Thank you for all your work!! I do have a question: You talk about the danger of damaging the machine (more exactly the LCD) with rogue bits of cured resin floating around. For someone learning how to do proper supports we need to at some point print to see if they work or not. Is there any danger to the machine during printing of those tests? Or if we do a "vat clean" (especifically the process of curing a full layer in the bottom of the vat and take it out without filtering all of the remaining resin and do a full vat cleansing with IPA and etc) before each test print will prevent the danger of smashing cured resin into the LCD?
TY so much for doing in-depth videos like this. My 3d capable device has not arrived yet (3 years late - kickstarter). I'm spending my time doing research and learning. It is a robot arm so I'm sure it builds bottom up and does not have a build plate as in your examples, but the need to support things is obviously apparent. I'm going to be working on figures and I'd like to know when placing my own supports, what rough distance should be used as guide for when a support is needed on something that is parallel to the build surface? Think of a T or A pose of a human figure. How far apart/close ideally should my supports be for the arms? It just gives me a good frame of reference, since I will be new to all of this. Also Great job on the video! You show true experience, and devotion to the viewers with your knowledge and implementation of knowing when to accelerate time, when to cut and jump ahead, and not too much ramble and Segway's. Again TY
Glad you found this helpful! Without seeing your model it's hard to say exactly, also it sounds like you won't be resin printing? I've seen robot arms do fdm printing, in which case you can just turn on auto supports in your slicer and skip all this manual stuff. This is really just to get the best results with resin printers.
Happy new year. Indeed it is a great video and a comprehensive guide to support. One question though, that i could have easily missed the answer within the video. Would your default light supports work for miniatures? Mainly 32mm or they would be too thick? Since the study case figure seems closer to 70mm scale
I heard you like supports, so I put supports on your supports. Thanks for another great video, this is helping me out a lot, do you do PLA or filament printers, if you do, can you do a support video for them please. P.s. I like your Halo mag, will look at purchasing it once I get my printer
Thanks! Truthfully I'm not as knowledgeable in FDM printers, but I could certainly share what I know regarding support blockers at some point for sure.
Amazing tutorial mate! New to resin printing but your tutorial is very much valuable. I ran into a problem when trying to print complex hairs of an anime figure. The problem is that my resin gets trapped between hairs because they become progressively thicker. Also, i don't know how to remove suction cup since i can only make holes where the face will be :/ any idea how to deal with it?
With regards to saving, I have an autohotkey script setup to press ctrl+s every 10 mins. If i was working on something like this I'd change it to 1 min.
Same concept. Support all islands. Only difference is medium and lights are preferred due to scale. Heavy only on necessary things like base edges For upscaling sizes. Just support more areas. His concept is easy to follow and works as long as you take into account size of the suction and is the support enough to hold it down
I’m wondering if a lot of the pain with the upper body could be alleviated by using a Boolean and separating the limbs by the bracers? That way you wouldn’t have to support by the hands
What are the cons and pros between printing bits and whole models? I found many amazing models for free but they are not pre supported and i wonder if i should cut them in bits beforehand
Not in my experience, I just shelled out for the pro version and I'm still getting quite a lot of 10+ pixel islands even when using "real" mode detection.
Hey Once in a Six great video, I love your content. I got a question tho. I asked my friend how he manages his supports while 3d printing? He said that he uses that automatic support mode in Chitubox and program does all the dirty work for him. He also said that he never had any failed prints. Is this automatic support option any good or is it too over the top with supports so you dont use it?
Thanks! Great question, I should probably make a video on why you can't rely on auto supports but essentially they're unreliable because they won't get every island which risks resin curing to the fep and not the rest of the model. A lot of times as the following layers cure, those little bits of resin will attach to the model and come away from the fep but this is not guaranteed. Auto supports give you no variation in settings either relative to the volume of the island they're trying to support as far as I'm aware, and do have a tendency to place supports where they're not even needed creating unnecessary scarring on the model. Basically if you want the best results and you want to be damn sure nothing gets left behind in your vat then do it manually.
Isnt the contact diameter and contact depth important for holding the model and how much you produce crates on the model? Why is your "ight-support much bigger and deeper than the other two? (it is even higher than the factory-setting for heavy support)
So if it isn't good to put a flat object flat onto the build plate, then why is it ok to have skates that are large flat surfaces on the build plate? What am i missing?
The skate is supported by the build-plate. A flat plane away from the build plate is only supported by tiny little support tips. Imagine the cured resin isn't solid, but bendy and visualize whats going to happen to the flat bendy thing getting pulled on by lots of little points versus being pulled on across its entire surface area. I have another video that covers this with some animations
I bought a 3D printer 9 months ago and have not been able to print a thing becuse i don't understand this process, how are you meant to know where to put supports to begin with? When i look a miniture in the slicer i have no idea how to read the model to know where to put supports, or even what size thickness they should or should not be. No matter how many of these supports videos i watch i still don't understand this process. Im thinking of selling the 3D printer becuse i don't seem to be able to understand what im actually doing in this process even though we have countless videos on the subject. maybe 3D printing is just not for me.
Sorry to hear it's been so frustrating for you. I came from using an FDM printer and it took me a little bit to wrap my head around the concept that I had to think about how the figure would need to be supported printing upside down. I would honestly stick with medium supports until you get an idea of when to use which supports. I look at the model from underneath and set the sliders on the right in ChituBox all the way down and then start to move them up and place support in places where the part of the model appear by themselves. You have to think of those little parts that start to show up as floating in the air and they need a support to hold them in place.I don't know if you have looked at 3DPrintingPro's channel because his videos break it down pretty well. 3D print weather it be FDM or resin is a learning process of trial and error at times You can also try auto-supports and while they are not 100% accurate you can run it and then move the sliders in the slicer beginning from the bottom to the top to get an idea of how the supports are attached by paying attention how it places the supports as parts of the layers begin to show up. Don't give up yet. I don't think you don't understand it because you can't get it, you just haven't found the right teacher yet.
Yes, sorry I should have mentioned that in Chitubox the setting 'Contact Diameter' appears to actually have no effect at all on the supports. Just pay attention to contact depth, upper diameter, and lower diameter.
I did at the beginning of the video, there's no direct link to share for this model as far as I'm aware but as I said in the video you can get it by signing up to Commisar gamza's petreon.
Contact depth is a BS setting.. you should ALWAYS put it to the minimum value. All it does is move the desired tip diameter into the model and increase your real tip diameter. The bits inside the model will be indistinguishable from the model itself, because the model wall will be solid... a cured pixel is a cured pixel, regardless of what it should belong to.
Honestly. Even though I suck at math. I wonder why Auto-support is not the superior option for calculating where to put supports. Isnt doing calculations exactly like this, that we built computers in the first place? I mean. The program knows exactly where each island is. It could just go layer by layer and build supports for everything. Yes. I know I might be saying the most ignorant thing. But seriously? I cant program the auto-supports. But I am not very smart either. One of you guys could probably code that together while pretending to watch your wives' soaps. Right? I mean. It would be a grand time saver for everyone. And time equals life. Right? By coding this to perfection, you could be granting other humans more extra time in life, than the worlds best surgeon.
Disclaimer: I have no idea about printing except for what I saw on this channel and the explanation in another comment why autosupport is not ideal. But regarding calculating where supports should be: while it is true that we could program the size and number as well as position of supports such that it will print well the downside is time and computation power. It is basically a problem with a load of variables where, as explained in the video, no single best solution can be found. Printing the torso/head right side up or upside down can both be correct but not necessarily best. The other thing is that to optimize the computation for where to put supports would need to include the whole 3D model, we could even go so far as to compute or at least guess the peelig and suction forces. All of that would be possible and we could have a well supported model. However to reduce computation time needed as well as not limiting this to people with the beefiest computers we need to make compromises. Otherwise it could take hours to have a well supported model and you would be faster to just do it by hand. The other danger is that the program would over support the model to be 'ideal' and you end up with problems where you have too many supports and the model will have scaring or you cannot remove the supports easily. But still a good question and I guess somebody with more coding experience than I have could work out a code that would improve the autosupport feature. Or at least give the option to put the most necessary supports in.
Gotta agree, UV tools has been great thanks for sharing these amazing tips
You're very welcome :D
I'm gonna get some popcorn because this is gonna be epic!
Haha well I hope you enjoy good sir! You're probably the last person who needs this video, but I very much appreciate you checking it out all the same :) If you spot anything I missed or have any useful tips and tricks to add then please don't hesitate to share!
@@OnceinaSixSide oh I am a firm believer that you can never be so good at something that you can't improve. I'm always excited to hear how others have refined a process to make it work for them. I always learn something useful. 😊
@@SlicePrintRoleplay Very true, we should all be life long students :D
I'm not a miniture guy, but this video has convinced me to patreon this channel.
Well cheers! 🍻
This is one of the best videos about creating supports for miniatures.
The part about the deformation at 9:18 is spot on, I noticed this a lot printing minis with bases, the bases always have a tear drop shape when printing on an angle. Like you I found out that putting many more supports on that bottom edge helps eliminate that deformation. Sometimes there is still a tiny bit but its much improved.
I'm just starting out with resin and this is suuuuuper helpful. Thanks very much!
“Center the area you’re working on to the middle of the build plate” great idea, so much easier. Thanks!
Any chance you could do a video on installing and using UV tools? 🙏
Edit, made this before we got to the UV tools bit. 😅
This is so cool, thanks for the tutorial!
You are very welcome!
Awesome video. Thanks for contribution to this community.
thank you for such a great video. I am learning how to do this now. and this was extremely helpful.
Great video ! Really love seeing someone trying to get supports better for all those models out there. Keep up the great work !
Much appreciated!
Very insightful thank you for making this long form video. It's nice to hear your thought process as you go through it.
Watching this as I'm supporting a model myself. Super chill background tutelage!
Another banger. Thank you for top notch, gold star content.
Much appreciated!
I just bought a Mars 3 Pro (thanks to the awesome black friday sale). While i'm waiting for the delivery ive been bingeing youtube for videos about the hobby. most of them on the super beginner "what is 3d printing" style and a few about exposure settings and test plates. Knowing a bit of photography the knowledge transfers over pretty well. it all seemed so easy.
Showing the deformed base and angling it made made sense to me.
And when you showed the slices going up through the floating fingertips to the hand i suddenly had an epiphany, and finally realised how important good supports are, its so much more than just clicking auto, tweaking them a bit and hitting print.
Another top notch video bud. Hope this gets out to as many modellers as possible
Me too! Thanks for your comment :)
this video is GREAT. helps so much with my own supporting
really enjoyed the video, great commentary and demo
Much appreciated!
Thanks for showing us all this. I kit bashed a couple of stl files I have together and this helped me ensure it all printed correctly. Cheers
Glad it was helpful!
Very really good tutorial. Thankyou sir
You're welcome sir
I have for years been recommending a much older video by 3d printing pros, but this updates his, and is much more explanative for why and how. I support 100% just like you do, and dont plan on switching to lychee either. Chitu works and honestly does a few things for free that lychee doesnt do for free. Bridging between supports is a plus. I tend to add more supports in the middle of the base than you do, but I feel like sanding the base flat fixes any weirdness that comes from extra supports. I also dont hollow bases, I feel like some extra weight to keep the models flat is worth the cost of the extra resin. Great job and Ill share this one with the team.
Can I just say, I am glad to finally find a guide that actually deals with deformation of large flat objects.
I've been trying for some time now to make some custom bases for my mini's, but they would always come out warped slightly or needing a LOT of sanding to make the bottom actually flat.
Thanks for sharing your learning mistakes, very informative
Absolutely great tutorial - I can now see that I do my supports WAYYYY wrong :D Can't wait to try this tactic
I really want to thank you for such a fantastic and in depth view into the process. It was very informative and a joy to watch. I know the video has been out for a while, but.. anybody know where i can buy that model, its pretty cool.
Hey no problem! Glad you found it valuable. You can get the model as a reward for joining Gamza's Patreon.
This is a great way to add supports when you sell models, but I couldn't imagine spending this kind of time when you are just printing stuff at home. Like you, I notice often, presupported models are usually terribly done. But, when I do supports, I rarely use heavy except for bottom parts, and never use medium. I use autosupports and then go nuts with adding light supports where I think it might need them. Maybe I have a failure once in 20 prints. That said. I definitely like the explanations for why certain supports are needed. I never considered suction cup issues at all. Spent a night watching all your videos before coming back to this longer one. My biggest issue is less supports, and more pieces fitting together when resizing to smaller models. Why have keys or tabs if i just have to cut them off before assembly. Subscribed to your channel.
His "heavy" supports are more like medium supports in the slicer preset. He is not using stock settings. His light support has contact of 0,26mm, medium 0,45 mm and heavy are 0,55mm. Contact depth of 0,2mm for each.
Great stuff! Love the channel!
Thank you!
Thanks again my dude.
I'm still working my way through the basing part but it's identifying something I already thought was an issue. Whenever I've seen these big centre piece models on bases. They should have been base toppers not entire bases as the end users could salvage a bad printed base topper so much more easily than a failed base; especially one that has deformed.
Thanks for stopping by :) Yeah big bases can be a hit or miss, at the very least providing a base topper in addition to an all-in-one would be great to see.
BTW I did watch all the way through and you did a great job of show don't tell when it came to illustrating why success through failure is important with these sorts of projects.
@@DanielVisOneCade Thank you very much! I'm glad to hear it :) Part of me wanted to edit that out and just show deliberating on the orientation, then cut to deciding on the right one but in the end I figured it was better to leave failure in.
Outstanding video.
And a worthwhile campaign.
I am new to 3D printing, from the plastic injection modelling world.
It is amazing that designers get away with just sculpting something in CAD without, apparently, any thought about manufacturer.
We, the printers, are 100% responsible for production engineering.
That can't be right.
This video is all I was looking for. Plus if you play some smooth jazz at the same time, it somehow fits perfectly.
Awesome Video! Thanks Dude!
Chitubox V2 has something similar to UV tools integrated now?
With the possibilty to remove all islands by one click, but i guess you will loose a lot fo visibel details with?
And i would say Chitubox is more precise now with finding unsuported areas as Lychee. Cause when Lychee says everything is fine now, i exported the suported file as stl and reopen it in Chitubox and made a scan in high quality and there are still a lot of unsuported areas. After suporting them i sliced it and can run another scan for Islands after and i was pretty suprised that Chitubox still found more then 80 Islands.
This is the kind of stuff that this platform needs and excels, the sharing of in depth info about technical stuff!! Thank you for all your work!!
I do have a question: You talk about the danger of damaging the machine (more exactly the LCD) with rogue bits of cured resin floating around. For someone learning how to do proper supports we need to at some point print to see if they work or not. Is there any danger to the machine during printing of those tests? Or if we do a "vat clean" (especifically the process of curing a full layer in the bottom of the vat and take it out without filtering all of the remaining resin and do a full vat cleansing with IPA and etc) before each test print will prevent the danger of smashing cured resin into the LCD?
TY so much for doing in-depth videos like this. My 3d capable device has not arrived yet (3 years late - kickstarter). I'm spending my time doing research and learning. It is a robot arm so I'm sure it builds bottom up and does not have a build plate as in your examples, but the need to support things is obviously apparent. I'm going to be working on figures and I'd like to know when placing my own supports, what rough distance should be used as guide for when a support is needed on something that is parallel to the build surface? Think of a T or A pose of a human figure. How far apart/close ideally should my supports be for the arms? It just gives me a good frame of reference, since I will be new to all of this.
Also Great job on the video! You show true experience, and devotion to the viewers with your knowledge and implementation of knowing when to accelerate time, when to cut and jump ahead, and not too much ramble and Segway's. Again TY
Glad you found this helpful! Without seeing your model it's hard to say exactly, also it sounds like you won't be resin printing? I've seen robot arms do fdm printing, in which case you can just turn on auto supports in your slicer and skip all this manual stuff. This is really just to get the best results with resin printers.
Happy new year. Indeed it is a great video and a comprehensive guide to support. One question though, that i could have easily missed the answer within the video. Would your default light supports work for miniatures? Mainly 32mm or they would be too thick? Since the study case figure seems closer to 70mm scale
I heard you like supports, so I put supports on your supports. Thanks for another great video, this is helping me out a lot, do you do PLA or filament printers, if you do, can you do a support video for them please.
P.s. I like your Halo mag, will look at purchasing it once I get my printer
Thanks! Truthfully I'm not as knowledgeable in FDM printers, but I could certainly share what I know regarding support blockers at some point for sure.
Amazing tutorial mate! New to resin printing but your tutorial is very much valuable. I ran into a problem when trying to print complex hairs of an anime figure. The problem is that my resin gets trapped between hairs because they become progressively thicker. Also, i don't know how to remove suction cup since i can only make holes where the face will be :/ any idea how to deal with it?
1.5 hours video... I paused, then I liked it. Now I can watch.
With regards to saving, I have an autohotkey script setup to press ctrl+s every 10 mins. If i was working on something like this I'd change it to 1 min.
question: what about same model but different size? let's say I want to go from 1:16 to 1:6, how does it change the way you think about supports?
Same concept. Support all islands. Only difference is medium and lights are preferred due to scale. Heavy only on necessary things like base edges
For upscaling sizes. Just support more areas. His concept is easy to follow and works as long as you take into account size of the suction and is the support enough to hold it down
I’m wondering if a lot of the pain with the upper body could be alleviated by using a Boolean and separating the limbs by the bracers? That way you wouldn’t have to support by the hands
What are the cons and pros between printing bits and whole models? I found many amazing models for free but they are not pre supported and i wonder if i should cut them in bits beforehand
For the complete beginner is there a way you can just do the supports automatically in chitubox, lychee slicer and or UV tools?.
Have you done a review on Emang pre supported Patreon files?
Fking master class. Epic.
i think lychee slicer better to detect islands?
Not in my experience, I just shelled out for the pro version and I'm still getting quite a lot of 10+ pixel islands even when using "real" mode detection.
Hey Once in a Six great video, I love your content. I got a question tho. I asked my friend how he manages his supports while 3d printing? He said that he uses that automatic support mode in Chitubox and program does all the dirty work for him. He also said that he never had any failed prints. Is this automatic support option any good or is it too over the top with supports so you dont use it?
Thanks! Great question, I should probably make a video on why you can't rely on auto supports but essentially they're unreliable because they won't get every island which risks resin curing to the fep and not the rest of the model. A lot of times as the following layers cure, those little bits of resin will attach to the model and come away from the fep but this is not guaranteed. Auto supports give you no variation in settings either relative to the volume of the island they're trying to support as far as I'm aware, and do have a tendency to place supports where they're not even needed creating unnecessary scarring on the model.
Basically if you want the best results and you want to be damn sure nothing gets left behind in your vat then do it manually.
@@OnceinaSixSide Thanks bro keep up the videos coming
Isnt the contact diameter and contact depth important for holding the model and how much you produce crates on the model?
Why is your "ight-support much bigger and deeper than the other two? (it is even higher than the factory-setting for heavy support)
So if it isn't good to put a flat object flat onto the build plate, then why is it ok to have skates that are large flat surfaces on the build plate? What am i missing?
The skate is supported by the build-plate. A flat plane away from the build plate is only supported by tiny little support tips. Imagine the cured resin isn't solid, but bendy and visualize whats going to happen to the flat bendy thing getting pulled on by lots of little points versus being pulled on across its entire surface area. I have another video that covers this with some animations
yesss veryy gooood *palpatine voice*
Chitubox needs an auto-support islands. Because holy crap its so time consuming getting those fixed.
Asome
Great video, I took lots of notes.... But ooff, this is too much work.
I bought a 3D printer 9 months ago and have not been able to print a thing becuse i don't understand this process, how are you meant to know where to put supports to begin with? When i look a miniture in the slicer i have no idea how to read the model to know where to put supports, or even what size thickness they should or should not be. No matter how many of these supports videos i watch i still don't understand this process. Im thinking of selling the 3D printer becuse i don't seem to be able to understand what im actually doing in this process even though we have countless videos on the subject. maybe 3D printing is just not for me.
Sorry to hear it's been so frustrating for you. I came from using an FDM printer and it took me a little bit to wrap my head around the concept that I had to think about how the figure would need to be supported printing upside down. I would honestly stick with medium supports until you get an idea of when to use which supports.
I look at the model from underneath and set the sliders on the right in ChituBox all the way down and then start to move them up and place support in places where the part of the model appear by themselves. You have to think of those little parts that start to show up as floating in the air and they need a support to hold them in place.I don't know if you have looked at 3DPrintingPro's channel because his videos break it down pretty well. 3D print weather it be FDM or resin is a learning process of trial and error at times
You can also try auto-supports and while they are not 100% accurate you can run it and then move the sliders in the slicer beginning from the bottom to the top to get an idea of how the supports are attached by paying attention how it places the supports as parts of the layers begin to show up.
Don't give up yet. I don't think you don't understand it because you can't get it, you just haven't found the right teacher yet.
It would have been nice if the modeler had the head seperate, you then could get good hands and a better head position.
Is it ok "contact diameter" in light supports 0.5mm) are bigger than medium (0.28)?
Yes, sorry I should have mentioned that in Chitubox the setting 'Contact Diameter' appears to actually have no effect at all on the supports.
Just pay attention to contact depth, upper diameter, and lower diameter.
@@OnceinaSixSide All clear. Thanks
@@artineogda You're welcome!
Dude. At 10:40 you are a bit stingy with the supports. More supports plz.
Link to models please.
Loving your vids dude but credit the artist with a link somewhere 😛
I did at the beginning of the video, there's no direct link to share for this model as far as I'm aware but as I said in the video you can get it by signing up to Commisar gamza's petreon.
@@OnceinaSixSide a link to the patreon then. I know you shouted it out but I looked and couldn't find.
Keep up the great work tough loving the content
Smash
Contact depth is a BS setting.. you should ALWAYS put it to the minimum value. All it does is move the desired tip diameter into the model and increase your real tip diameter. The bits inside the model will be indistinguishable from the model itself, because the model wall will be solid... a cured pixel is a cured pixel, regardless of what it should belong to.
Honestly. Even though I suck at math. I wonder why Auto-support is not the superior option for calculating where to put supports.
Isnt doing calculations exactly like this, that we built computers in the first place? I mean. The program knows exactly where each island is. It could just go layer by layer and build supports for everything.
Yes. I know I might be saying the most ignorant thing. But seriously?
I cant program the auto-supports. But I am not very smart either. One of you guys could probably code that together while pretending to watch your wives' soaps.
Right? I mean. It would be a grand time saver for everyone. And time equals life. Right? By coding this to perfection, you could be granting other humans more extra time in life, than the worlds best surgeon.
Disclaimer: I have no idea about printing except for what I saw on this channel and the explanation in another comment why autosupport is not ideal.
But regarding calculating where supports should be: while it is true that we could program the size and number as well as position of supports such that it will print well the downside is time and computation power.
It is basically a problem with a load of variables where, as explained in the video, no single best solution can be found. Printing the torso/head right side up or upside down can both be correct but not necessarily best.
The other thing is that to optimize the computation for where to put supports would need to include the whole 3D model, we could even go so far as to compute or at least guess the peelig and suction forces. All of that would be possible and we could have a well supported model.
However to reduce computation time needed as well as not limiting this to people with the beefiest computers we need to make compromises. Otherwise it could take hours to have a well supported model and you would be faster to just do it by hand.
The other danger is that the program would over support the model to be 'ideal' and you end up with problems where you have too many supports and the model will have scaring or you cannot remove the supports easily.
But still a good question and I guess somebody with more coding experience than I have could work out a code that would improve the autosupport feature.
Or at least give the option to put the most necessary supports in.
Damn islands are the worst.