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Installing a Ceiling Cassette Pioneer Split Mini
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- Опубліковано 24 лют 2022
- This episode I installed an 18,000 BTU 20 see garage split mini unit from Pioneer. The unit is a little different from most seen where they are wall-mounted. This one is a ceiling cassette which is significantly more discreet than the wall units. Because split mini units are reversible heat pumps, they are capable of heating and cooling the room even well below 0 degrees F.
The installation of the split mini also primes me for installing the "epoxy" flooring the following weekend so we can raise the temperature for a proper cure.
Pioneer Unit:
www.pioneerminisplit.com/coll...
Music By: TeknoAXE
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ForgeSpace assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video.
I definitely recommend a pressure test first with dry Nitrogen to confirm no leaks and that the lines sets can handle the operating pressures. By skipping that step you run the risk of the vacuum pulling in potential contaminants and moisture if there turns out to be a leak.
Agreed, if you have the equipment it's better to put the system under pressure first.
One of my biggest pet peeves. Don’t take the hose off once vacuum is done. You just let air in the system when you removed the hose
Great, clean install. One note is that running NM-B wire in outdoor conduit is not up to code and will fail electrical inspection. You have to use UF-B.
You can run NM-B from panel through wall only if it directly goes into the outdoor disconnect. Can't go thru conduit even if conduit is watertight. Then from disconnect to A/C you have to use UF-B. Silly rule IMO but just FYI in case anyone wants to pass electrical inspection and inspector is uptight.
No thhn either ?
@@Miketime969 You can use THWN from disconnect to A/C - this is actually the recommended wire as UF-B is difficult to work with. THHN is not allowed from disconnect to A/C - but basically all wires that are THHN are THWN also. The THHN wires that are also THWN are allowed of course.
the heat rejection from your condensing unit under the mini split will impact the performance of it, it will be sucking in hot air while trying to discharge its own. Nice neat install though
I was thinking same thing, why directly in the stream of the condensing unit. also why so high mounting it? I'd rather not have to pull out a ladder for future maintenance. When I build something , I take a few and think about what's it's gonna require to access things.
im a lic. HVAC contractor ...i immediately jumped out of my seat when i seen that
@@jaysheat631 well this is why we have jobs my man 😂 good DIY install just an oversight on his part
Yep.
Nice video, I wouldn't run Romex in a conduit though in the future, only THHN. Heat build up with extra insulation could cause problems down the road. Otherwise, clean install!
GREAT video! I’m looking at putting one of these in my slab on home that has no heat and ac. Thank you! I’m hoping to put it up high as well since we get a lot of snow here in Northern MN. My house is 1100sqft so doing the 18000 BTU.
I need a set up exactly like that for my garage! I like your 944. I am in to 928 and have 6 of them. I have a 4 car garage that needs an AC unit! Ceiling is the only place I can put it, just like your set up.
Ut-ohh. That Lennox condenser gonna be blowing hot air on your mini split condenser
Was thinking the same thing
My 1st thought
So you’re telling me that keeps a large uninsulated garage cool in hot summer? Wow. That’s incredible. Hope it holds up. Must be working pretty hard?
Nice upgrade
Another video said the 5 pin wire was for installing a wired-in wall control if you didn't want to use the remote :)
Thanks for that. For whatever reason it is not in the manual
Now that you've had the system installed for several months, how does it do in the summer months. Was 18k big enough for your garage. I'm in Arizona with a cinder block garage walls. Debating between 18k & 24k. Charging my Tesla in the garage also adds a good amount of heat.
Its holding up well. Today it was 100 outside and the temp was steady. My garage walls are not insulated and neither is the garage attic. Not sure how cynderblock will affect this with heat soak throughout the day.
Ithink that extra 5 pin connection is for a wifi adapter. I am installing 2 mini splits with 6 zones total on my house and they have the option for wifi with a connector like that.
Regarding the vent, can you close off the 4 main directions individually? Let’s say I only wanted to blow out in 3 directions.
They are all linked together, no individual controls
I'm leaning toward this mini cassette to hang in my hallway ceiling because I'm limited for space.Does this blow out all 4 sides of cassette?And who has the best price,I'm needing a 18,000 btu?
It blows all four directions. The adjustment is in unison. Prices are generally comparable from what I was able to find. I went with the pioneer because I had one in my last garage and liked the performance.
I like senville. They seem to have a good price and reputation
Nice job man. It’s so cool that you had the welding gear to just make your own bracket and one that better than anything you could have bought. I ended up here because I’m doing research to buy one. May I ask how’s it holding up?
Working great, keeps the full uninsulated three car garage cool even in 100 degree heat.
@@ForgeSpace That’s great to hear. Makes me feel a bit at ease about getting this same brand. Thanks!
@@ForgeSpace how much has your utility bill increased?
I only run it when I plan on working in the garage on the weekends. I can't discern the cost from regular draw on the whole house.
You should of explained why you needed to make customer brackets to mount the head unit. What did the instructions want you to do?
The instructions tell you to use drop hangers from the rafters to leave the ubit floating. I did these brackets because the spacing between the engineered joists matches the width of the unit making the install easier this way.
Great video! Just wanted to check and see how it was performing! Also, what's the sqft of the garage if you don't mind?
Very good
isn't the heat from the lower unit going to cause the upper unit to work harder?
They operate differently, the split unit is PWM on manages the speed of the pump but stays on. The main unit operates intermittently, it's not blowing hot air into the upper unit continously.
does service disconnect and head unit have to be located outside
Where did u get the brackets u used to mount it like that straight to the joist
I just bent up some 1/8 metal bar stock.
Extra wire is for the wired Thermostat
Mabye extra wire goes to a wall mounted control. I found extra wire inside my wall mounted unit that goes to dedicated controller mounted on wall.
Someone else suggested the same thing. I think you're right.
So it’s safe to leave the extra wire Just there
It's appears to just be a comm line. No dangerous voltage goes through that.
You DIY guys crack me up. You are clueless on what you are working on and giving technical advice to the masses.
You should make a vid or write up the right way to do it. Otherwise I take it you are protecting your job security
@@ForgeSpace I don’t like mini splits. Only install them as a last resort. My comment (respectfully) is to the fact that you don’t truly understand the more complicated details of what you are doing. Anyone is capable of properly installing these units as long as they are properly trained. A properly installed system will perform for years. When they are not properly installed they most certainly will fail prematurely. It’s more than a plug and play project. I get calls all the time after they fail. I get it, I am expensive for some people, But it takes money to keep the lights on , licensing , insurance, trucks repaired and fill up the tank. Not protecting my job with this comment. I have sworn to protect my customers from damage or harm. I take my profession very serious. I wouldn’t do videos on how to perform heart bypass surgery, I would leave that to someone that has been trained.
@@mel904 Not everyone can afford you though. I think if he did something wrong then give him feedback on where he made a mistake. It's ok to teach him rather than putting him down. He isn't trying to teach anyone, he is just sharing how he did it. As a pro who came and watched his video you can give him feedback on what he should have done different and the things he should have a professional come out and double check. Not all of it has to be done by a pro but I am sure some things do! All you said was that he was clueless but gave no support to your claim as to what he did wrong. Teach him and if you don't want to then don't comment because it adds nothing to the conversation!
@@theczechdude I don’t give guidance to a subject I am not proficient in. That is the point I was trying to make. It is not my place to offer assistance to the non licensed or untrained as a professional. I would be complicit in the activity.
how much did you charge them for the work? I'm curious how much would cost multizone with the same units up to 3-5 locations?
@7:17- ya said the plan didn’t work- removed brackets then installed screws laterally and vertically- how did that help with the brackets? The brackets’ holes wont line up to the beam to attach ? Secondly- did the hose reach above the height of the wood beam? What exactly was your solution?
Same question here.
You need to use torque wrench when you tighten the line set. Also you need to re flare your ends. Factory flares are not perfect.
Also vacuum leak test usually not effictive leak test
what's the tone called that you used to connect the condensation drain line to the pvc from the cassette unit?
It's a ribbed flex hose similar to a dishwasher drain line. It comes with the unit.
You just killed the vacuum ... Next time open the freon before unhooking the vacuum or you'll let air in
Does this ceiling cassette have a lift pump for condensation?
It has a built in drain pump.states not to exceed 20.9" lift though.
@@ForgeSpace Great job with the install. How do you like it so far?
Loving it so far. For a single unit it does a great job maintaining temperature in an non insulated space. I would consider using a programmable thermostat. The remote is nice, but the receiver node doesn't have any prism in front of it so you have to have a low angle to operate it.
@@ForgeSpace i put a piece of aluminum tape positioned at an angle to redirect the ir remote beam. My pioneer cassette has same issue with the remote signal. Sort of helps it respond to the remote.
There is a refractory dome that l want to put on it, think that would work as well.
Installing the AC over another AC means it's getting all the hot air and will suffer in its longevity and performance. Keep heat exchangers away from other heat exchanger's hot air outlets.
Did you run your incoming power into the bottom of the disconnect?
Coming up on the 6 month install date which includes both cold and hot days, so how is the unit doing? A few questions "How is the performance of the system?".... How much noise does the unit produce? Would you install one of these systems in your bedroom? Does it pass enough heat to the lower level of the garage? Enough cooling?
It does a good job heating and cooling. For a garage my size it's on the edge of the capacity. The overall space is kept cool on the hottest days. As you near the outside walls you can feel the temperature difference since the single cassette doesn't have enough air flow to move the air enough to thoroughly mix it. I do expect that though since my outside walls in the garage are not insulated. The noise is minimal, I record my videos with it running and the camera doesn't even pick it up. Overall for the space and what the unit does, I am very happy with it.
@@ForgeSpace would a wall mounted unit as opposed to the cassette make any difference. How many square feet is your garage?
Approx 750sqft. I wanted the ceiling to keep the wall space clear and to have it centrally mounted. In my last garage I had a wall unit and there was a drastic difference in temp between one and end the other.
@@ForgeSpace thanks..it looks like a great way to heat and cool a space that size..is there much cost difference between the cassette and a wall unit? Thanks for your advise.
From what I have seen the cost is about the same. There is a bit more work involved in the ceiling as you have to route everything over a longer distance and have two holes ceiling and wall.
Nice Video and great job! Im looking to do a cassette install but mine requires a 33" opening. Anyway - why did you use 12/3 instead of 12/2 WG? Thanks again you made this look easier than I know it will be for me!
These come as 110v and 220v. I used the 220 version 18000btu. I believe the 9k btu is the 110 version.
@@ForgeSpace I haven't connected my units yet but just pulled my wire. Units are 230V 20A. As I understand all that is needed is 12/2 WG with black and white (marked accordingly) as hot then ground to ground and that a 12/3 WG would only be required if there was a need for 115V\230V like on a dryer where you have a 115V motor and a 230V heating element or if you were wiring a device with a three way switch.
Sorry for the questions - I got curious when I saw the 12/3 being used! I did read that code now requires that a 110V outlet be at the HVAC location.
You are correct. Splits don’t need a 3rd wire
I have a question, Do cassette air conditioners have power cords like regular wall mounted air conditioners
The unit is hard wired with an interconnect to the control circuit and fan on the cassette itself
Did you have to go the attic to hook the high and low lines to the cassette unit?
Yes. Did that off camera since it's a low clearance area.its the same flare fittings as on the outside.
why didn't you show any of the attic work including how the brackets was mounted? that's the difficult part.
The instructions call for using a drop down mounting solution utilizing all thread. The L brackets I made are my mounting solution and they are screwed right into the truss. Tightening down the fittings on the unit and the drain line are the only things not really shown and are simple.
@7:17 you said your idea didn’t work- so what did you do? Or is this the idea that worked?
Why did you select Pioneer?
I had their wall mounted unit previously and it served me well. Some of the other brands claim that you don't need to evacuate the lines which makes me question them. The price was also a big factor.
Build a frame above the joists and bolt the anchors to said frame.
Said idea sounds sound
Sounds easy- something tells me it’s not that easy
No video footage connecting cassette wire and lineset
How many square ft does it cover? Also, is your garage a 4 car?
It's about the size of a 3.5 car. ~875sqft with 10 foot ceilings. It's probably a bit undersized for an uninsulated space
How noisy is it? I'm considering cassettes in my bedrooms.
They are really quiet. The noise level is no higher than a ceiling fan.
How much extra energy is that consuming? Is it really that cheap to run them?
They are more efficient than traditional AC units. I only use it on the weekends and my power bill hasn't gone more than 5$ since the install.
you got a huge flaw in the condensing unit installation , your other unit on the ground is sending hot air to your mini split above ,the efficient on that unit is going to be terrible, it'll be sucking hot warm air from the unit below big no no ,you do not install any condensing unit above any other unit
Critical flaw? No. Minor loss of efficiency yes. It's less detrimental than placing the condenser in the sun. The amount temperature rise as it mixes with the ambient air is minor.
not to mention defrost water dripping on the central unit when heating
They say no cassette in a garage attic , recirculates the hot air . Looks clean though .
@@nixaeagle141 Not exactly sure what you are saying here. Its an enclosed garage space. It takes the air from in the garage space and kicks it back out to the garage space. These units do not take any air from the attic space. This is not any different that any room with high ceilings.
@@ForgeSpace just passing on what the manufacture told us . Not to install the cassette in garage attic , to use the wall mount .
nice install just wish you ran your lineset more attractive
The music is too strong and hard to wstch
Was the 5 pin wire the Bluetooth interface wire?
Someone said that it goes to the remote thermostat,could be BT
@@ForgeSpace I have 6 Mitsubishi Minisplits. I installed the Bluetooth connector on each so I could control the system from the Kumo Cloud App. The interface plugs into each in via a small multi pin connector..
why would you put that music on there, it's the most annoying problem on youtube
I always appreciate efforts of DIY. Had to turn this off as the background annoying music was too irritating to have to listen to. Why do youtubers think addiing annoying music adds to their video. I am looking for info, as a learner, not a music fest.
You in ep?
This video is not technically sufficient. Just an amateur install video, watch at your own risk.
Nowhere does he say its instructional
Are you using 12/3
12/2. is a 120v
Found a different mount and wanted your thoughts:
ua-cam.com/video/pY_tWHvWyX4/v-deo.html
Talking about the posy mount? I would say as with everything... it depends, if your soil is stable and you are bedded into the dirt it works. I would worry about cross-sectional strength. I would imagine without some cross bracing that it would be susceptible to leaning and wobble on lateral load. Just my thoughts, I'm not an engineer.
@@ForgeSpace That is in the ceiling mount for the indoor unit, not the out door unit..
@@joekapala3 ahh, yeah very similar install bracket, just a simple s. I don't see issue with it. The indoor units are not all that heavy in comparison and it should supporting just fine.
You're sure lucky you didn't cut that wire in the attic. Also, no safety glasses.
I was cutting shallow, but that would have been... "exciting". And yes, that is bad on my part. Safety glasses are important, particularly when working overhead.
Great video, except the annoying music
very unprofessional