I've been using k&n Apollo for few years and had no issues with MAF sensor/no any oil or dust behind filter (I was actually suprised). Just learn how to maintain it properly. Moreover this is how filter should look like after cleaning/oiling and drying, not like wet sock. Biggest mistake is to put too much oil...and later complain about MAF etc.
I have serious question... why the two air filter aka fake one they do not show behind it? who know what he put inside the intake? something probably blocking those filters from inside
mas maganda po siguro kung nakakabit yung intake ng blower sa isang tube at sa mga filter na itetest kc parang pinatong lng kc at parang di pare pareang pag patong or di aligned.. please dont get me wrong but i like the video and the purpose. just a suggestion. pinaka d best nyan dyno test.
@@John_Stur It's not about the sensor not reading correctly, you shouldn't have to do any adjustments after fitting a different filter. It's about the oil used in the filter that will cover it with junk Edit: oil coated air filters won't damage your MAF sensor if you use the correct amount of oil during servicing, so technically there shouldn't be any "junk" on the sensor
@Filip Prucnal When you replace your stock air filter with an open air filter the amount of air inducted is increased. The MAF sensors and the car's mapping are engineered to work with the "stock" parameters coming from the factory. You're messing with the whole amount of air inducted, thus different mapping from ECU, altering the injection process of your car. Getting tuned by a professional is the only way to help it run more stable and more reliably after the tinkering with different components. And yes, the oil on the filter does make it clog up with dirt much faster, but all these filters are washable & reusable. You just need to maintain it properly.
@@John_Stur by "cover it with junk" I meant the MAF sensor, the filter will get dirty too, obviously, but I wonder if there's any oil mist entering the intake piping I don't know if I understand this correctly. The MAF sensor measures the amount of air drawn into the engine, the ECU compares the read value with the fueling table and injects fuel accordingly. With a less restrictive filter, you increase the amount of air drawn in, but since the sensor is mounted after the filter, it should pick up that change, and the ECU should adjust itself (the table has a bit of margin to account for different air temperature and barometric pressure, because a MAF based system doesn't use an IAT sensor as far as I know) Furthermore, all modern (late 90s and up) cars have a lambda sensor. If the ECU were to mess up the fueling, it would detect the mixture leaning out and signal the ECU to make a change (probably only a short term correction, I don't know if stock ECUs have any long term learning capabilities) or throw a code if things get very out of hand At least that's how I understand it. Otherwise what's the point of having a MAF based system if it can't adjust to different conditions. Correct me if I'm wrong, I don't have experience with MAF systems, all the cars I have worked on are either already MAP or converted to MAP Edit: I've searched the internet a little bit and pretty much the only thing I could find is that a badly designed intake can introduce turbulence into the airstream, which would disrupt the sensors readings (I've MAF sensors are quite sensitive to this, is that the reason they sometimes have fins and meshes built into them?)
@Filip Prucnal Actually, your research is on point, well put. But just the "issue" is that there can be many combinations of open/cold air filters, and the MAF sensor isn't always located just after the filter. It can, for example, be located on the other end of the induction tube. Newer cars sometimes have even more sensors than the good old MAF sensor; just researching about it makes me dizzy 😵. Also, the fueling table margins aren't the same for each car, obviously. If it works in your car, it doesn't mean it will be in my car, too, because the margins could be there yeah, but one car may react differently. I guess a cheaper way to avoid a car tuner is to get an ECU OBD scanner so you can read the measurements yourself. But at that point, you must have a good idea of what you're reading and understanding it. I sure wouldn't try.
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Who else was surprised when the test box with K&N written on it, showed K&N filters to be the best?
The last filter is put on an angle leaving a huge gap. Had to see what else you did to get the results you wanted. Chasing a sponsorship are yas 😂
Seems like the original KnN filter was not aligned properly with the test device...
THIS IS COMMERCIAL FROM K&N!!!!!!!
how about original simota filter from works engineering?
So seems like the fake and simota filters better then..👍🏻👍🏻
I know right the original doesnt filter shit
Actually, the original K&N filter element is not red colour..the red colour look come after we re-oiling it..bcoz the K&N oil is red.
How can air pass more freely than the original when there is oil in the passage?
I've been using k&n Apollo for few years and had no issues with MAF sensor/no any oil or dust behind filter (I was actually suprised). Just learn how to maintain it properly. Moreover this is how filter should look like after cleaning/oiling and drying, not like wet sock. Biggest mistake is to put too much oil...and later complain about MAF etc.
how much is too much? will spraying 1 coat of oil on dirty side enough?
@@acc1tester398 i usually put 2 equal layers, dry some with paper towel and leave it for 12-24hrs :)
@@konradkiebowicz5800 how about putting 1 layer on the dirty side only? is that bad as well?
@@acc1tester398 This is ok but put thicker one, leave for few minutes, dry with paper towel and leave for 24hrs.
@@konradkiebowicz5800as i did to my K&N filter..now i 'm more confident that i'm right way..😎
I have serious question... why the two air filter aka fake one they do not show behind it? who know what he put inside the intake? something probably blocking those filters from inside
the last air filter is obviously not pushed in or fited properly compared to previous ones.. bias comparison😂
Not a clear test
mas maganda po siguro kung nakakabit yung intake ng blower sa isang tube at sa mga filter na itetest kc parang pinatong lng kc at parang di pare pareang pag patong or di aligned.. please dont get me wrong but i like the video and the purpose. just a suggestion. pinaka d best nyan dyno test.
Simota is better for me
yap
where to find it in Dammam?
Was it oiled before test?
Doesn't look like it
Yeah, doesn't look like it.
knn out of the box is pre-oiled
Yeah I was looking for this comment..it's definitely not oiled or it would do the same thing
I see what you did there😂. You didn't put the original in the same way you did the others.
please make a COMPARISON of
DATATEC
BMG
MXR
K&N
SIMOTA
& FAKES
How come the last filter is not pushed against the fan like the first two??? If you going to do a test, at least do it the same for all.
So in other words k&n will make dirt get into the engine more than the other ones will.
They are good in filtering too.the oil make the filter more effective..K&N is not a dry type filter..make sure re-oiling it after cleaning.
This should be banned from YT
what a huge gap
fake din po ba yung simota air filter?
how about test itg filters?
Where to buy?
Simota 3?
K&n filter is washable?
yes
Esto es engañar a la gente y lo demás son tonterias...
What happen if u use the fake one will its effects the car?
If the fake one using cheap material that will break over time, yeah it will affect your engine.
K&N mass propaganda guys!
Oil filters mess up your MAF
You're supposed to tune your car after changing to an open air filter for this reason. You don't just place it in and leave it like that...
@@John_Stur It's not about the sensor not reading correctly, you shouldn't have to do any adjustments after fitting a different filter. It's about the oil used in the filter that will cover it with junk
Edit: oil coated air filters won't damage your MAF sensor if you use the correct amount of oil during servicing, so technically there shouldn't be any "junk" on the sensor
@Filip Prucnal When you replace your stock air filter with an open air filter the amount of air inducted is increased. The MAF sensors and the car's mapping are engineered to work with the "stock" parameters coming from the factory. You're messing with the whole amount of air inducted, thus different mapping from ECU, altering the injection process of your car. Getting tuned by a professional is the only way to help it run more stable and more reliably after the tinkering with different components.
And yes, the oil on the filter does make it clog up with dirt much faster, but all these filters are washable & reusable. You just need to maintain it properly.
@@John_Stur by "cover it with junk" I meant the MAF sensor, the filter will get dirty too, obviously, but I wonder if there's any oil mist entering the intake piping
I don't know if I understand this correctly. The MAF sensor measures the amount of air drawn into the engine, the ECU compares the read value with the fueling table and injects fuel accordingly. With a less restrictive filter, you increase the amount of air drawn in, but since the sensor is mounted after the filter, it should pick up that change, and the ECU should adjust itself (the table has a bit of margin to account for different air temperature and barometric pressure, because a MAF based system doesn't use an IAT sensor as far as I know)
Furthermore, all modern (late 90s and up) cars have a lambda sensor. If the ECU were to mess up the fueling, it would detect the mixture leaning out and signal the ECU to make a change (probably only a short term correction, I don't know if stock ECUs have any long term learning capabilities) or throw a code if things get very out of hand
At least that's how I understand it. Otherwise what's the point of having a MAF based system if it can't adjust to different conditions.
Correct me if I'm wrong, I don't have experience with MAF systems, all the cars I have worked on are either already MAP or converted to MAP
Edit: I've searched the internet a little bit and pretty much the only thing I could find is that a badly designed intake can introduce turbulence into the airstream, which would disrupt the sensors readings (I've MAF sensors are quite sensitive to this, is that the reason they sometimes have fins and meshes built into them?)
@Filip Prucnal Actually, your research is on point, well put. But just the "issue" is that there can be many combinations of open/cold air filters, and the MAF sensor isn't always located just after the filter. It can, for example, be located on the other end of the induction tube. Newer cars sometimes have even more sensors than the good old MAF sensor; just researching about it makes me dizzy 😵.
Also, the fueling table margins aren't the same for each car, obviously. If it works in your car, it doesn't mean it will be in my car, too, because the margins could be there yeah, but one car may react differently.
I guess a cheaper way to avoid a car tuner is to get an ECU OBD scanner so you can read the measurements yourself. But at that point, you must have a good idea of what you're reading and understanding it. I sure wouldn't try.
what the fuck?
How is it fake
because its not real. duh
@@rickjames5998 where you there to see ?
@@Carlos-ip2ir i was thinking the same thing 🤔 how do you know its fake ?
Que marca es el último filtro ?
k&n original