Thanks for a great video. A good tip if you didnt mention it. When done with a series of photos, regardless of what kind of photos you are making, take a picture of your hand to see, where the next series starts.
Hi Anthony. Nice tutorial. One thing I have found when shooting panos is to do a complete sweep - a dry run first and set your exposure for the brightest part of the pano. Lock your settings in, then shoot. Dark areas can be recovered, blown out highlights can't. Painful experience has taught me that one.
I tried to shoot panorama before but my hands were not perfect so I thought about making one shot and using Gigabixle and the results were perfect, now I found that my move was smart and Topaz labs were/are game changers, thanks for your great tutorials.
Funny you mention that. I spent the afternoon in Gigapixel running some upscaling on some older shots, which I love, but as they were from a 10mp camera they never held up that well on larger prints. Now, I've been able to breathe new life into them I'm a happy chappy! 😊
Brilliant thanks for this!!! I couldn't find anywhere to put your code for Gigapixel AI, so I went with Luminair AI instead which I managed to grab for £25 so thank you for the link and code :) Appreciate your brilliant video.
I am a nature, wildlife, motor sports amateur photographer and now and then I like to do dome landscape. This video Tony ws very helpful if I want to go down the panoramic path. I am off to Italy soon so I might just do some panoramic shots ! I would love to photo in a panoramic the 3 sisters in the dolomites !
What I find helpful is prior to first shot photograph one finger to signify first shot following and once the sequence of shots are completed take a final shot but this time take a shot of two fingers to designate the end of the sequence. This is particularly helpful when taking several sets of sequences as you have demonstrated. Also at the ten minute mark you flip the camera from Landscape into Portrait aspect but you said it was Landscape... Otherwise good demo
Yeah cheers 🍻 Michael. I like that 1 finger = start 2 fingers = end of set idea. Nice. Yes, totally said landscape instead of portrait. I just got pulled up for that in another comment! I need an editor to catch all my mistakes 🥴🤭🤣
Question to you Anthony, If working with a 24 megapixel camera and a seven frame panorama with a 30% overlap on the images. The first and last frames of the panorama has an overlap of only 30% which reduces the total megapixels of those frames from 24 megapixels down to 16.8 megapixels All frames in between the first and last frames are overlaped 60% which is 30% on the left side of the frame and 30% on the right? this takes the 24 megapixels down to 9.6 megapixels So the first and last frames added together would equal 33.6 megapixels Now the frames that are in between the first and last frames would equal a total 48 megapixels so the grand total of megapixels for this panorama photo would be 81.6 megapixels does this sound correct?
Hi Anthony! I use a grid of thirds on my camera in live mode, this way I can overlap just one third, hence less need for large amounts of photographs. I also find that using a tripod makes the horizon moves upwards, possibly because it's difficult to align the horizon using a ball head tripod. Cheers! Felix the Cat 😸😸
Yeah, Topaz is awesome! So glad I got it. The upscaling in Gigapixel has been great, and just recently I relied heavily on Sharpen AI to save my bacon when my lens had taken a knock without me knowing and I shot a whole job soft!
Thanks big A. Just going to work on a number of pano's I shot spring and summer. You've reassured what I was going to do. Good info. And.....nice images you've done.
Great tutorial ! Eberything perfectly explained - thank you ! One question.... Do Ligtroom v.5 or v.6 have the same possibilities for creating panoramas ?
I've been shooting handheld panoramas for a long time using your suggested techniques - and they work and results do improve with practice. One chore I've found unavoidable is tidying up stitching flaws especially when waves are involved. Is there any way of making that job easier? Super video Anthony. I enjoyed it very much.
Yeah, I was going to cover waves but the video length was already getting up there. If I'm shooting waves I aim to have one frame that covers the sea area. 🌊 If that's not possible I shoot as quickly as I can so there's a limited amount of movement in the motion of the waves.
Very instructive and helpful video on panoramic images Anthony. My only problem with this would be processing time. When I see how quick yours and other videos processing in tutorials it makes me realise how slow my 11 year old PC is. Although I've updated several times it's due for replacement. Will wait a while to see how W11 settles first.
Good point! I made a commitment to myself about 10 years ago that I'd never wait on my computer again. From then on I always made sure I had a machine that kept pace with me.
Hi Anthony, Thanks for the video ! I learned a lot. Let me ask you a question. Do you know the cause when Lightroom tells you, that some of the photos were not possible to be merged ? Thanks, Juan
Great instructional video as usual. I am getting close to pulling the trigger and getting Lightroom/Photoshop. I started out with Luminar 4 and later Luminar AI but have encountered periodic bugs with the software. More importantly neither of the Luminar products or the new Neo will do panoramas or focus stacking which I would like to do. Do you use Lightroom/Photoshop for focus stacking or another software such as Helicon or Zerene?
Great video! You mention using Gigapixel for single images, but is it worth pre-processing all your shots in Gigapixel before stitching them into a panorama in Lightroom (to get the maximum quality)?
No definitely not. Do your stitching first on the raw files because lightroom uses the lens metadata to remove any distortion and create a better seemless pano merge. I wouldn't worry too much with Gigapixel if you're stitching enough quality frames together. It depends on your final intended output though.
Anthony, I am missing your new videos. It's been a long time since you posted one. I realize your life is full of other things, but just know we are still out here!! :-) All the best to you always! Elliott in Manhattan.
Thanks Elliott. I've had some big commercial photography jobs that have kept me from being able to make one recently and I'm just away with my family for a short but much needed break. I'll be back soon and looking forward to it! 😀
I shoot a lot of panos. I'm torn between and 33MP or a 60MP camera to step up to Sony a7C2 vs CR. suggestion. concern about file size crunching of many(possibly 30-40) 60MP raw file.
If you've got the processing power to handle it... why not! I'm at 45mp and that seems to be a sweet spot for most of my work. I'm in the Nikon system so I don't really have a valid opinion on Sony options I'm afraid.
Thanks Anthony for the fantastic teachings as usual. Like you I prefer not to replace skies in my landscapes however I hate not knowing how it’s done !! Question 🙋♂️ which file type ? So for Luminar AI, Photoshop or Affinity photo which sky replacement file type is recommended jpeg or tiff or ? I use all 3 of those programs and have sky files in each format.
Hi Toby. Good question. Tiff will give you the highest quality for editing 👌. Jpeg is adequate if you're not altering the sky too much but it comes down to how it's compressed.
Lol Anthony I have just spent a fortune on getting a Acritech Pano Head and Leveling Base and Nodal Slide to do Panos >> I still have to learn Photoshop Stitching >> I still dont know how to get my images into Light room and I pay for it every month >> Now that Covid is easing I reckon I need 1 on 1 classes at home >> Hell I am 71 and Tech challenged but doing photography using Nikon since 1972
I will never hold the camera level and steady and all the Y Tube Vids I have watched state that you need what I have just bought to avoid a Nightmare in Post which scares the hell out of me so I am happier using Acritech kit to get in camera single row and Multi Layer Panos
Hi Peter. You're doing it the "right" way. The hand held approach isn't for everybody and certainly takes some practice to get right. If you've got the right head for your tripod and a nodal slide and are happy to carry that with you, you're golden! Enjoy creating panoramas my friend :)
The Acritech stuff looks very good but expensive. I do things on the cheap. The camera is the part not to cheap out on but you can do things cheap with lenses for pans because you don't need autofocus or fast apertures and there are plenty of vintage manual lenses of really great quality. This is especially the case with panoramics because you don't need to get super wide lenses which are expensive and older vintage really wide angles don't perform as well. A good start for a lens which is quite wide on full frame is the Zeiss Contax 28mm f2.8. This lens has something very nice in terms of the colours it creates. For black and white I have a 35mm f2.3 Takumar preset lens from the 1950s. Super sharp at f8 or 11. However, a bit rare to find now. I could go on forever about vintage lenses but there are plenty of great ones, especially at longer frocal lengths. I have about 40 of them. Some spectacularly good quality. I consider a few of them masterpieces. My tripod panoramic head setup is all Benro. A levelling base. A panoramic Arca Swiss clamp which has a ring to switch degrees depending on lens. This is very useful because you can set it and fly through each shot quickly at correct degrees thus avoiding cloud movements, lighting changes etc messing up the stitching. I have the camera on an L plate which is attached to a longer plate with another Arca Swiss clamp attached so I can get the lens to swivel on nodal point. I don't usually bother wirh tilting the camera. I nearly always keep it level. I keep tne tripod setup all modular so I can use just the bits I need. This setup is small and reasonably light. I can take it up a mountain. I use Linux OS and have Darktable for RAW editing and Hugin for pano stitching. The drawback is that it's not in one piece of software but I have never had a fail with Hugin. Get the photos right at source and it will always work. Darktable is powerful. You can avoid Adobe.
Early in video you made reference to the FujiFilm X-T4. What steps do you recommend to eliminate the "worm effect" in .RAF files? Batch preprocessing using a tool like Iridient X-Transformer, or something else?
Hi! Just wanted to chime in here as someone using the X-T4 full-time for photo work and running 2-5 thousand images through them weekly. Adobe's interpretation of the data from the new sensor is very different and much-improved over their X-Trans III implementation. For the third-generation, detail needed to be fairly low to mitigate the wormy effect; for the X-T4 I'd encourage you to try detail around 80 or so, with a small radius, around 1.0, and, at least at ISO 160, masking fairly low as well, around 30-35. Assuming your photos are in focus, this should give you great results, especially in photos with lots of detail. Sharpening level itself does not need to be more than 30-45, I think a big issue for a lot of folks is assuming that Fuji needs substantial sharpening - if you're using their lenses you barely need any at all, at least for most commercial work and most certainly very little for portraiture. Skies are still a bit of an issue for Fujifilm and if you don't want to see ANY noise in skies but still use sharpening, I'd recommend you target your sharpening with adjustments, or use Smart Sharpen in Photoshop with masks. My clients have been extremely happy with the files processed this way and some of them have enlarged quite big with great results.
Thanks. I’m a total computer idiot. I recently tried a pano and took it into Photoshop. After completing a beautiful edited image, I couldn’t get it out of Photoshop because the file as too big. Couldn’t get past that.
Hi mate. Save as .psb rather than psd if the file pushes past 2gb. Also "save as" or "export" and selecting jpeg will yield a much smaller and manageable end file.
That's if you want to increase the resolution further. I'm shooting on a 45mp D850 so I'm not too worried about portrait orientation anymore. When I was on sub 24mp cameras then yes, I'd opt for portrait 😀
I outsource my printing. Various places depending on where in the world its shipping and whether it's fine art archival quality, canvas or simply a standard print.
@@AnthonyTurnham Any places in NZ that are recommendable?? Finding it difficult to print pano's wider then 2 feet. Harvey Norman used to have a printer with a 1.4m wide print . . . . . . I did a Pano of the Schoenbrunn palace in Vienna - and - lol - the software accidentally "cloned" one dude -good times
you have such a gorgeous daughter: why don't you integrate her into your videos with pictures, and also with speaking? The earlier she learns, the better :)
Nah, it's just a good workout 😁💪A good solid stance, braced with your elbow tucked in, one hand supporting the lens with a nice point of balance. All good 👍👌
Thanks for a great video. A good tip if you didnt mention it. When done with a series of photos, regardless of what kind of photos you are making, take a picture of your hand to see, where the next series starts.
Hi Anthony. Nice tutorial. One thing I have found when shooting panos is to do a complete sweep - a dry run first and set your exposure for the brightest part of the pano. Lock your settings in, then shoot. Dark areas can be recovered, blown out highlights can't. Painful experience has taught me that one.
How does this video not have thousands of likes?? Your stuff is so top notch. A billion thanks for everything you've taught me.
Thanks 😊 Very kind of you!
Your panoramas are beautiful. I'm looking forward to giving this a go too. Fantastic advice. Thank you!
Thanks! 😊
Great tutorial. Thanks mate. Great to see a kiwi making good on YT. Cheers.
Thanks 🙏
I tried to shoot panorama before but my hands were not perfect so I thought about making one shot and using Gigabixle and the results were perfect, now I found that my move was smart and Topaz labs were/are game changers, thanks for your great tutorials.
Funny you mention that. I spent the afternoon in Gigapixel running some upscaling on some older shots, which I love, but as they were from a 10mp camera they never held up that well on larger prints. Now, I've been able to breathe new life into them I'm a happy chappy! 😊
@@AnthonyTurnham glad to hear that, it seems that those genius edit tools are going to resurrect many old precious photos🙂
Really good info thank you!
Brilliant thanks for this!!! I couldn't find anywhere to put your code for Gigapixel AI, so I went with Luminair AI instead which I managed to grab for £25 so thank you for the link and code :) Appreciate your brilliant video.
I am a nature, wildlife, motor sports amateur photographer and now and then I like to do dome landscape. This video Tony ws very helpful if I want to go down the panoramic path. I am off to Italy soon so I might just do some panoramic shots !
I would love to photo in a panoramic the 3 sisters in the dolomites !
What I find helpful is prior to first shot photograph one finger to signify first shot following and once the sequence of shots are completed take a final shot but this time take a shot of two fingers to designate the end of the sequence. This is particularly helpful when taking several sets of sequences as you have demonstrated. Also at the ten minute mark you flip the camera from Landscape into Portrait aspect but you said it was Landscape...
Otherwise good demo
Yeah cheers 🍻 Michael. I like that 1 finger = start 2 fingers = end of set idea. Nice. Yes, totally said landscape instead of portrait. I just got pulled up for that in another comment! I need an editor to catch all my mistakes 🥴🤭🤣
Question to you Anthony, If
working with a 24 megapixel camera and a seven frame panorama with a 30% overlap on the images.
The first and last frames of the panorama has an overlap of only 30% which reduces the total megapixels of those frames from 24 megapixels down to 16.8 megapixels
All frames in between the first and last frames are overlaped 60% which is 30% on the left side of the frame and 30% on the right? this takes the 24 megapixels down to 9.6 megapixels
So the first and last frames added together would equal 33.6 megapixels
Now the frames that are in between the first and last frames would equal a total 48 megapixels so the grand total of megapixels for this panorama photo would be 81.6 megapixels does this sound correct?
Wow, I haven’t tried creating panoramas yet - but this video is inspiring!
Hi Anthony! I use a grid of thirds on my camera in live mode, this way I can overlap just one third, hence less need for large amounts of photographs. I also find that using a tripod makes the horizon moves upwards, possibly because it's difficult to align the horizon using a ball head tripod. Cheers! Felix the Cat 😸😸
good for printing large images. Nice I like Topaz package.
Yeah, Topaz is awesome! So glad I got it. The upscaling in Gigapixel has been great, and just recently I relied heavily on Sharpen AI to save my bacon when my lens had taken a knock without me knowing and I shot a whole job soft!
Just found your channel. It’s excellent- keep up the good work- 🍻
Welcome aboard and thanks for the comment!!!!
Excellent video. Thank you Sir.
Very welcome
Thanks big A. Just going to work on a number of pano's I shot spring and summer. You've reassured what I was going to do. Good info. And.....nice images you've done.
Cheers Daniel. I hope your panos turn out well! 🙂
Helicon focus looks interesting for such a job.
Gigapixel is wicked.
Superb tutorial🎉
Thanks 🙏😀
Nice tutorial and good to see real world results of your panos ie the office wall mural 👍
Thanks. Yeah it's always nice seeing my work up in print in areas with a lot of foot traffic 🙂
Fantastic tutorial. Thanks for sharing. Subscribed.
Pete
Great tutorial !
Eberything perfectly explained - thank you !
One question....
Do Ligtroom v.5 or v.6 have the same possibilities for creating panoramas ?
I don't recall where the pano capabilities were at with each of those releases. Sorry.
I've been shooting handheld panoramas for a long time using your suggested techniques - and they work and results do improve with practice.
One chore I've found unavoidable is tidying up stitching flaws especially when waves are involved. Is there any way of making that job easier?
Super video Anthony. I enjoyed it very much.
Yeah, I was going to cover waves but the video length was already getting up there. If I'm shooting waves I aim to have one frame that covers the sea area. 🌊 If that's not possible I shoot as quickly as I can so there's a limited amount of movement in the motion of the waves.
Mate, brilliant once again. Now I have to find somewhere to try some pano work.
Thanks. Yeah absolutely! Get out there and give it a go.
@@AnthonyTurnham I bloody will, mate. Just to practice.
An excellent tutorial Anthony.
Thanks Jay.
Thank you!!!! could you please show how to use the new masking in Lightroom love the way you teach!!!!!
That's a good idea Debbie! I'll see what I can do.
Very instructive and helpful video on panoramic images Anthony. My only problem with this would be processing time. When I see how quick yours and other videos
processing in tutorials it makes me realise how slow my 11 year old PC is. Although I've updated several times it's due for replacement. Will wait a while to see how W11 settles first.
Good point! I made a commitment to myself about 10 years ago that I'd never wait on my computer again. From then on I always made sure I had a machine that kept pace with me.
Processing speed is less about the OS and more about the hardware (RAM, processor and HDD)
Hi Anthony,
Thanks for the video ! I learned a lot.
Let me ask you a question. Do you know the cause when Lightroom tells you, that some of the photos were not possible to be merged ?
Thanks,
Juan
Usually too much camera movement between shots. If you're not pivoting around the lens nodal point this is more likely to happen.
@@AnthonyTurnhamOkay, I understand. Thanks a lot for answering.
Great instructional video as usual. I am getting close to pulling the trigger and getting Lightroom/Photoshop. I started out with Luminar 4 and later Luminar AI but have encountered periodic bugs with the software. More importantly neither of the Luminar products or the new Neo will do panoramas or focus stacking which I would like to do. Do you use Lightroom/Photoshop for focus stacking or another software such as Helicon or Zerene?
I use photoshop for focus stacking. It's not always great but it does a good job most of the time.
Great video! You mention using Gigapixel for single images, but is it worth pre-processing all your shots in Gigapixel before stitching them into a panorama in Lightroom (to get the maximum quality)?
No definitely not. Do your stitching first on the raw files because lightroom uses the lens metadata to remove any distortion and create a better seemless pano merge. I wouldn't worry too much with Gigapixel if you're stitching enough quality frames together. It depends on your final intended output though.
Excellent! Thanks 😊.
Anthony, I am missing your new videos. It's been a long time since you posted one. I realize your life is full of other things, but just know we are still out here!! :-) All the best to you always! Elliott in Manhattan.
Thanks Elliott. I've had some big commercial photography jobs that have kept me from being able to make one recently and I'm just away with my family for a short but much needed break. I'll be back soon and looking forward to it! 😀
@@AnthonyTurnham Anthony, I am so happy the news is all good! Thank you for your kind greeting! Every good wish! Elliott
Is this tool also available in lightroom or only in lightroom classic??
I shoot a lot of panos. I'm torn between and 33MP or a 60MP camera to step up to Sony a7C2 vs CR. suggestion. concern about file size crunching of many(possibly 30-40) 60MP raw file.
If you've got the processing power to handle it... why not! I'm at 45mp and that seems to be a sweet spot for most of my work. I'm in the Nikon system so I don't really have a valid opinion on Sony options I'm afraid.
I love panorama on the x-t3
I tryed it on a tripod but it suck
It works better handheld
Thanks Anthony for the fantastic teachings as usual. Like you I prefer not to replace skies in my landscapes however I hate not knowing how it’s done !! Question 🙋♂️ which file type ? So for Luminar AI, Photoshop or Affinity photo which sky replacement file type is recommended jpeg or tiff or ? I use all 3 of those programs and have sky files in each format.
Hi Toby. Good question. Tiff will give you the highest quality for editing 👌. Jpeg is adequate if you're not altering the sky too much but it comes down to how it's compressed.
@@AnthonyTurnham I’ll tiff everything then. I use you for all of my Luminar AI training as well mate. Thanks for what you do from South Aus 👍🏻
Lol Anthony I have just spent a fortune on getting a Acritech Pano Head and Leveling Base and Nodal Slide to do Panos >> I still have to learn Photoshop Stitching >> I still dont know how to get my images into Light room and I pay for it every month >> Now that Covid is easing I reckon I need 1 on 1 classes at home >> Hell I am 71 and Tech challenged but doing photography using Nikon since 1972
I will never hold the camera level and steady and all the Y Tube Vids I have watched state that you need what I have just bought to avoid a Nightmare in Post which scares the hell out of me so I am happier using Acritech kit to get in camera single row and Multi Layer Panos
Hi Peter. You're doing it the "right" way. The hand held approach isn't for everybody and certainly takes some practice to get right. If you've got the right head for your tripod and a nodal slide and are happy to carry that with you, you're golden! Enjoy creating panoramas my friend :)
The Acritech stuff looks very good but expensive. I do things on the cheap. The camera is the part not to cheap out on but you can do things cheap with lenses for pans because you don't need autofocus or fast apertures and there are plenty of vintage manual lenses of really great quality. This is especially the case with panoramics because you don't need to get super wide lenses which are expensive and older vintage really wide angles don't perform as well. A good start for a lens which is quite wide on full frame is the Zeiss Contax 28mm f2.8. This lens has something very nice in terms of the colours it creates. For black and white I have a 35mm f2.3 Takumar preset lens from the 1950s. Super sharp at f8 or 11. However, a bit rare to find now. I could go on forever about vintage lenses but there are plenty of great ones, especially at longer frocal lengths. I have about 40 of them. Some spectacularly good quality. I consider a few of them masterpieces.
My tripod panoramic head setup is all Benro. A levelling base. A panoramic Arca Swiss clamp which has a ring to switch degrees depending on lens. This is very useful because you can set it and fly through each shot quickly at correct degrees thus avoiding cloud movements, lighting changes etc messing up the stitching. I have the camera on an L plate which is attached to a longer plate with another Arca Swiss clamp attached so I can get the lens to swivel on nodal point. I don't usually bother wirh tilting the camera. I nearly always keep it level. I keep tne tripod setup all modular so I can use just the bits I need. This setup is small and reasonably light. I can take it up a mountain.
I use Linux OS and have Darktable for RAW editing and Hugin for pano stitching. The drawback is that it's not in one piece of software but I have never had a fail with Hugin. Get the photos right at source and it will always work. Darktable is powerful. You can avoid Adobe.
Early in video you made reference to the FujiFilm X-T4. What steps do you recommend to eliminate the "worm effect" in .RAF files? Batch preprocessing using a tool like Iridient X-Transformer, or something else?
Good question. That's a video on it's own. However, I mainly use my X-T4 for video work though.
Hi! Just wanted to chime in here as someone using the X-T4 full-time for photo work and running 2-5 thousand images through them weekly. Adobe's interpretation of the data from the new sensor is very different and much-improved over their X-Trans III implementation. For the third-generation, detail needed to be fairly low to mitigate the wormy effect; for the X-T4 I'd encourage you to try detail around 80 or so, with a small radius, around 1.0, and, at least at ISO 160, masking fairly low as well, around 30-35. Assuming your photos are in focus, this should give you great results, especially in photos with lots of detail. Sharpening level itself does not need to be more than 30-45, I think a big issue for a lot of folks is assuming that Fuji needs substantial sharpening - if you're using their lenses you barely need any at all, at least for most commercial work and most certainly very little for portraiture. Skies are still a bit of an issue for Fujifilm and if you don't want to see ANY noise in skies but still use sharpening, I'd recommend you target your sharpening with adjustments, or use Smart Sharpen in Photoshop with masks. My clients have been extremely happy with the files processed this way and some of them have enlarged quite big with great results.
Just a though Anthony, Skylum Aurora HDR 2019 has a panorama feature. Felix the Cat 😺😺
Thanks. I’m a total computer idiot. I recently tried a pano and took it into Photoshop. After completing a beautiful edited image, I couldn’t get it out of Photoshop because the file as too big. Couldn’t get past that.
Hi mate. Save as .psb rather than psd if the file pushes past 2gb. Also "save as" or "export" and selecting jpeg will yield a much smaller and manageable end file.
Hi Anthony. There is another Luminar AI update 5 Best wishes from Felix the Cat 😺😺
Thanks Felix. I appreciate the heads up! 😀
You say to shoot panos in portrait orientation but the examples are landscape.
Excellent presentation though!
That's if you want to increase the resolution further. I'm shooting on a 45mp D850 so I'm not too worried about portrait orientation anymore. When I was on sub 24mp cameras then yes, I'd opt for portrait 😀
@@AnthonyTurnham thanks for the clarification 😊
You have a definite talent for instructional videos on photography!
I don’t understand, if you shoot in portrait mode your shots would be vertical but in LR they’re horizontal still. How?
If you stitch multiple portrait shots together, side by side on the horizontal axis, the end result will become a horizontal panorama.
@@AnthonyTurnhamReally late response but thank you for the explanation!
The real question is that after all that work being done - WHO does the printing???
I outsource my printing. Various places depending on where in the world its shipping and whether it's fine art archival quality, canvas or simply a standard print.
@@AnthonyTurnham Any places in NZ that are recommendable?? Finding it difficult to print pano's wider then 2 feet. Harvey Norman used to have a printer with a 1.4m wide print . . . . . . I did a Pano of the Schoenbrunn palace in Vienna - and - lol - the software accidentally "cloned" one dude -good times
Landscape mode? Don't you mean portrait mode? Felix the Cat 🙀🙀
Very possibly! What's the timestamp?
@@AnthonyTurnham It's around 09:56-10:05 minutes in Anthony, around the ten minute mark. Cheers! Felix the Cat😺😺
you have such a gorgeous daughter: why don't you integrate her into your videos with pictures, and also with speaking? The earlier she learns, the better :)
Thats totally not giving any red flags at all
Isn't a 70-200mm lens a little heavy to use handheld? Felix the Cat 😼😼
Nah, it's just a good workout 😁💪A good solid stance, braced with your elbow tucked in, one hand supporting the lens with a nice point of balance. All good 👍👌
Thanks for a awesome video! This is the best tutorial 😲
Glad it was helpful!