Nice seeing setups from people that use their gear professionally. As for your top plate issue, there is a second contact point on the C70 , the little piece that you measure focal distance unscrews adding another point of contact. I believe Kondor Blue utilizes the two points of contact. They sell just the top plate so it may work for your needs.
BP-A60's are a good option over V-mount imo. I got my third party BP-A60 battery with a charger for $150 on B&H. The benefit being reduced clutter and bulk, and giving you probably close to the same battery life though you'd lose D-tap but for the monitor just get a BlackMagic NP battery that is super lightweight and lasts a while. On 1 BP-A30 and BP-A60 I can do an all-day shoot no problem especially with cutting frequently. Not to mention having to include rails on the base plate for the v-mount and then the bulk on the end of the v-mount making balancing on a tripod more tedious. Then you can pop it off and easily do handheld for b-roll whenever you want.
Nice rig setup. I have one issue however- the Wooden Camera top-plate. Because everything you rig to it is secured by a single top bolt which still contains play even after tightening, this does not appear to be the most secure or viable option to use, especially when attaching a monitor and/or handle. In my mind, a Tilta C70 cage would provide a more secure and much cheaper alternative. One would then have no less than nine different secure attachment/bolt points for a separate top-mounted cheeseplate alone, not counting room for a monitor, microphone, light, etc. Again, just a suggestion. Thanks.
Quick point of clarification here- the play in your top plate is because of the camera, not the top plate. I have a Smallrig top plate, and mine does the same thing. Swap your original top handle on, and it'll have play too. The C70 top screw hole just gets loose after (not all that much) time. I literally just packed my C70 up and sent it in to be serviced today for this very issue.
Love the detail in your walkthrough. For your top-plate, you might want to consider the one from Kodor Blue. They utilize the focus hook as a second point, and it won't shift. Unless you'd just like a full cage to relive the weight of the rig from the camera, then the Tilta full cage is an absolute steal in terms of price.
Lovely video. Its better tohave a weaker connector to protect the monitor. When the camera falls and it hits with the Ninja, the connector will take off some impact if it breaks.
I'm currently shooting on a C70 and I generally love it. I'm a solo shooter who travel quite a bit and I try to keep my rig as small as possible. I've never had to use an external monitor before, but I have found that the LCD on the C70 just about useless in sunlight conditions. What has been your experience with the C70 lcd in sunlight?
Surprisingly clean setup for the amount of stuff you put on it ✌🏼 It does have some flaws though. The mic doesn’t seem to be having enough space to be used with a dead cat. Especially when using it with a 7”. Also, do you only have access to one d-tap with this?
Thanks for the reply Damian. Love your content brother. And yea you're right, it could always be better. To be honest we rarely use an additional monitor so that solves the mic issue. Regarding the D-Tap, we actually still have access to both.
Hi there, have you recorded prores on the Ninja V from the C70? I find that the files contain banding when compared to the internal codecs. I'm searching around to see if there is something I've done wrong in the setup. Tried the Ninja V with my Lumix S5 and no banding issues.
hey man! nice setup. I was wondering about the v-mount + BP-A power solution. when I use both a v-mount (with the d-tap to DC IN cable) and the BP-A30 that comes with the C70, the camera always uses the power of the BP-A first, so it kind of "prioritizes" the BP-A over the v-mount, which I find kind of weird and is impractical for hot swapping v-mounts, because it only starts using the v-mount once the BP-A is empty. I couldn't find anything in the menus to change that. have you had the same problem and found a solution? also: you should check out the SHAPE half-cage for the C70. it's a bit pricy but a really nice piece of kit. you won't have any wobble issues with the top plate (had the same issue with the SmallRig plate, which drove me nuts) and you get a really neat secure lock/protection bracket-thingy for the HDMI :)
@@bradancheta I haven't had the tilta cage in my hands, but it looks like a good and more affordable option. what I really like about the one by shape is that it's not a full cage so there no added bulk on the C70's grip and it's still very comfortable to hold. also shape offers a bigger top plate and the HDMI lock is a lifesaver for the HDMI port. mine already got a bit loose and I was always afraid of breaking it.
Strange.... We have actually used the hot swapping things a few times without issue and literally never charged our BPA's... I wonder if the BPA is charing in camera when the camera is off.. Meaning if we leave a v mount attached but have the rig powered down, is that actually charging the BPA making it full basically every time we power on the rig...?
In regardsto battery, check if the camera is receiving the needed voltage in order to operate. I've seen this same issue happening at least twice, but it was the d-tap to barrel cable connect fault. If you use an external power source, the camera prioritize it over the internal source, with the other way around only if there's not enough power. As per cage, I use the Tilta cage and it works fine. The cage lays on top of the de camera and you mount around the focusing pin, but at the bottom you can use both the 3/8" and 1/4" tripod mount points at once.
Nice seeing setups from people that use their gear professionally. As for your top plate issue, there is a second contact point on the C70 , the little piece that you measure focal distance unscrews adding another point of contact. I believe Kondor Blue utilizes the two points of contact. They sell just the top plate so it may work for your needs.
haha i love that you're just rocking the bongo tie on your wrist .
BP-A60's are a good option over V-mount imo. I got my third party BP-A60 battery with a charger for $150 on B&H. The benefit being reduced clutter and bulk, and giving you probably close to the same battery life though you'd lose D-tap but for the monitor just get a BlackMagic NP battery that is super lightweight and lasts a while. On 1 BP-A30 and BP-A60 I can do an all-day shoot no problem especially with cutting frequently. Not to mention having to include rails on the base plate for the v-mount and then the bulk on the end of the v-mount making balancing on a tripod more tedious. Then you can pop it off and easily do handheld for b-roll whenever you want.
Neewer makes a good monitor mount I think you’d like better.
Nice rig setup. I have one issue however- the Wooden Camera top-plate. Because everything you rig to it is secured by a single top bolt which still contains play even after tightening, this does not appear to be the most secure or viable option to use, especially when attaching a monitor and/or handle. In my mind, a Tilta C70 cage would provide a more secure and much cheaper alternative. One would then have no less than nine different secure attachment/bolt points for a separate top-mounted cheeseplate alone, not counting room for a monitor, microphone, light, etc. Again, just a suggestion. Thanks.
Nice one! Blue Kondor has a rocksolid top-plate that mounts to the hot-shoe and the tape measure hook on top of the camera. And it's way cheaper.
Good tip!
You might have saved me a ton of money on the top plate. Thank you. I wish it had two mounting points.
Create video, very thorough
I personally believe the green couch needs it's own IG account. EXCELLENT as always fellas! That's a durn honey of a rig👊🏽
On it!
Quick point of clarification here- the play in your top plate is because of the camera, not the top plate.
I have a Smallrig top plate, and mine does the same thing. Swap your original top handle on, and it'll have play too. The C70 top screw hole just gets loose after (not all that much) time.
I literally just packed my C70 up and sent it in to be serviced today for this very issue.
Thanks for the comment. It's strange because you would think that those ribbed areas would keep there from being any play.
Love the detail in your walkthrough. For your top-plate, you might want to consider the one from Kodor Blue. They utilize the focus hook as a second point, and it won't shift. Unless you'd just like a full cage to relive the weight of the rig from the camera, then the Tilta full cage is an absolute steal in terms of price.
Hey, which V-Mount Plate is that? BR Chris
Lovely video. Its better tohave a weaker connector to protect the monitor. When the camera falls and it hits with the Ninja, the connector will take off some impact if it breaks.
That’s a fantastic point. 👏🏻
Why couldn’t you use the speedbooster on the 50 mm F1.2?
are you recording onto the ninja?
so which battery is it drawing power from first, V-mount or BP30 and if the first power source dies does it start to use the other?
do you know what Dtap cable that is for the camera
Love it!
Hey thanks!
I'm currently shooting on a C70 and I generally love it. I'm a solo shooter who travel quite a bit and I try to keep my rig as small as possible. I've never had to use an external monitor before, but I have found that the LCD on the C70 just about useless in sunlight conditions. What has been your experience with the C70 lcd in sunlight?
Surprisingly clean setup for the amount of stuff you put on it ✌🏼
It does have some flaws though. The mic doesn’t seem to be having enough space to be used with a dead cat. Especially when using it with a 7”.
Also, do you only have access to one d-tap with this?
Thanks for the reply Damian. Love your content brother. And yea you're right, it could always be better. To be honest we rarely use an additional monitor so that solves the mic issue. Regarding the D-Tap, we actually still have access to both.
@@ChromaCreativeYT ah nice.
You rarely use the monitor? 😱
I could not use this camera without my big monitor on top 😅
@@damiencooper Hahaha. It’s not uncommon for us to use off camera monitoring.
Nice rig! Do you find that the stabilisation works well on the sigma 24-70 ? Il considering buying this Lens for my c70 . Thanks
Yes it does!
Please list the gear and links where we can purchase.
Doneski!
Hi there, have you recorded prores on the Ninja V from the C70? I find that the files contain banding when compared to the internal codecs. I'm searching around to see if there is something I've done wrong in the setup. Tried the Ninja V with my Lumix S5 and no banding issues.
Thnx for the video. Could you send a link to which IDX plate you use.
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1553176-REG/idx_system_technology_imicro_150_kit.html
hey man! nice setup. I was wondering about the v-mount + BP-A power solution. when I use both a v-mount (with the d-tap to DC IN cable) and the BP-A30 that comes with the C70, the camera always uses the power of the BP-A first, so it kind of "prioritizes" the BP-A over the v-mount, which I find kind of weird and is impractical for hot swapping v-mounts, because it only starts using the v-mount once the BP-A is empty. I couldn't find anything in the menus to change that. have you had the same problem and found a solution?
also: you should check out the SHAPE half-cage for the C70. it's a bit pricy but a really nice piece of kit. you won't have any wobble issues with the top plate (had the same issue with the SmallRig plate, which drove me nuts) and you get a really neat secure lock/protection bracket-thingy for the HDMI :)
Great Question! Had that same question in my head! I was curious to ask if you like the tilta cage vs the shape as well?
@@bradancheta I haven't had the tilta cage in my hands, but it looks like a good and more affordable option. what I really like about the one by shape is that it's not a full cage so there no added bulk on the C70's grip and it's still very comfortable to hold. also shape offers a bigger top plate and the HDMI lock is a lifesaver for the HDMI port. mine already got a bit loose and I was always afraid of breaking it.
Strange.... We have actually used the hot swapping things a few times without issue and literally never charged our BPA's... I wonder if the BPA is charing in camera when the camera is off.. Meaning if we leave a v mount attached but have the rig powered down, is that actually charging the BPA making it full basically every time we power on the rig...?
In regardsto battery, check if the camera is receiving the needed voltage in order to operate. I've seen this same issue happening at least twice, but it was the d-tap to barrel cable connect fault. If you use an external power source, the camera prioritize it over the internal source, with the other way around only if there's not enough power.
As per cage, I use the Tilta cage and it works fine. The cage lays on top of the de camera and you mount around the focusing pin, but at the bottom you can use both the 3/8" and 1/4" tripod mount points at once.
8:27 "Couldn't decide if it was 7 or 8 inches and didn't want to pull out the tape measure" Yeah know that feeling lmao
Great video! Any reason we can't see your replies to comments? At least I can't.
NM! Had to clear cookies/cache, can see all replies now : )