this is the video you mentioned in a reply to me on the water pump video, very cool. Easy to follow instructions, and very happy you include the socket sizes. I just grab the ones you mention and away we go. I don't plan on putting the MSD in, but maybe so, depends on what we see under the hood tonight.
The main reason they vented the opti was to remove ozone build up from the spark occurring across the rotor to cap. a sealed cap and functional vent are key to a long life for the optispark. I’m about to install the torqhead 24x kit in the next couple of months when I do my heads, cam, lifters, and roller rockers and do away with it.
DAMN PICKLE YOU ARE MY F HERO,, I JUST SPENT 10 BUCKS FOR HOSE CLAMP PLIERS TO BE HERE TOMORROW. The bulls**t I went through with these FFFFFF hose clamps was infuriating. They were maybe 30 years on the hose and what a pain in the ass to grip, even with 90 degree needle nose pliers. That is going to make my job so much more pro and faster
@@sangamonriverrats6769 true but the clamps were some how turned down and very hard to get anything to grab and squeeze them at all. All good now. I replaced some with easy hose screw bands
I tried MSD and it failed twice after about a year each time. Gave up on it after I found the shaft had a wobble to it. I hope you have better luck than I did. I finally went with Torqheads 24x setup.
We should make like a thin plastic cover that goes over the opti unit and has a opening for the plugs and vacuum lines that prevents splashing from underneath and water from washhing the enging getting directly on the opti itself
Take the whole unit off, it’s easier. You forgot the seals for pump and cam. If oil leak it will fail. Also make sure you line distributor up correctly or it won’t start. Start it up before putting water pump on just to be sure. Good video
@HMV3-TIGER-FAN I saw an immediate improvement. I'll be honest I live somewhere hot and if you've seen some other videos of mine you'll know I don't have A/C so it has been sitting a little more than normal. But my issues were difficulty starting, popping, a sort of stumble at low speeds like it would jerk a little under hard acceleration and I haven't had any of those issues. I get the occasional comments here asking why you'd just get the cap and if you can cover the better part of a thousand dollars to get a whole new MSD opti and the recommended new water pump I would but the cap I did here resolved the issues I was having even with less testing just because it was effectively undrivable before anytime I jumped in. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
Pulling the whole fan assembly at once is probably faster than taking the individual fans off. It’s basically just slid into a slot straight down. I snatch them out as soon as I take the elbow off. 93-94 is non vented 95-97 is vented. If replacing the whole thing the drive is different for 93-94 vs 95-97. If you order the wrong one it no worky.
My 1995 ss impala opti was bad replaced the whole unit from ac delco. Cap rotor and the electronics. Also all three front seals on timing cover.the old seals will leak oil onto opti and ruin it.
I have a 1995 C4 Corvette. I replaced my opti-spark 4-5 times. Finally I got smart and purchased a torqhead LS type ignition replacement system for the optispark. It costs more up front, but you never have to worry about ever dealing with the uncertainty of getting left on the side of the road because of the unreliable opti spark. The absolute best part is it comes with a PCM that can be FULLY TUNED. So you can put in a bigger cam, get high flow heads, forced induction or any other mod you can think of. Don't waste your time and money with another optispark. I was seriously thinking of getting rid of my Vette until I found out about torqhead. If you go to Ellwein Engines UA-cam channel you'll see an engine builder Carl Ellwein that uses the Torqhead system on his 1995 SS Impala track car.
@@YungEagle3k And here we have someone who is commenting but has no clue what he's talking about. There's no way in the world you can get away with replacing an Opti-Spark for $50 unless you go to a junkyard which is not the smartest move. A replacement Opti-Spark by itself can cost upwards of $500... An Accel Opti-Spark on Summit Racing costs $433... And that's not including installation. Installation is another $500 if you're lucky. If you do it yourself you still need to replace the water pump and the belt tensioner. An AC Delco water pump will set you back $150... Now do that 5-6 times and you go away over $1000. But that's why you never listen to "experts" online. 90% of the time you'll get advice that'll cost you even more money than if you did it right the first time...
I need to pull both balancwr and hub and i have a puller but i see people putting nuts on the bolts and i have no idea where they get those nuts becauae my puller did not come with nuts?
Technically it was advertised for the Corvette actually. Small differences between the LT1 in the Corvette verse camaro mostly belt set up and some internals. You should be fine running this on your Corvette but note the MSD I got is just the cap. You'll see ones for $700+ that will be the whole opti if you're looking for a full replace.
95 vette here.opti went last year and bought a 200 dollar piece from auto zone lasted 2 months.then bought jegs 200 dollar junk.came in with sloppy drive shaft and just sent it back.bought 450$ PETRIS OPTI AND BEEN GREAT EVER SINCE.also put something on the water pump p hole to direct coolant around the opti if it goes bad and they like to if your yamming on it hard they dont like the higher rpms.also if you have an original factory opti keep the Mitsubishi optical sensor.switch it to the new unit you bought especially if its a cheaper unit than petris.
I don't think it will let me send photos but there is a plastic vacuum line under where the brake booster hose connects to the driver side of the block. These are very brittle but you can find them online if they break. I had to cut it so it was a straight line and so the supplied hose forms a T. Like this:[engine]-|
Buy a pair of long needle nose pliers with 30 degree bent ends. This will allow long reach and you can squeeze the spring clamp to secure the vacuum hose. It takes patience.
Pickle, I wussed out of removing my engine knock sensors/drain plugs on each side of the engine because my largest snap on standard socket wrench was not enough and I guess I need to use my 20 inch breaker bar. I felt like it might break on me because the sensor is some weird nut/sensor combo. Have you ever fully drain your LT1 that way. I figured I would do the halfass radiator drain only a few times and slowly get most dirt out. Thanks for helping
Yeah I haven't done a complete flush on mine yet. I do need to but I have completely drained mine a few times for different reasons thru the hoses and gave it the gooda 'nuff. Found out when changing the freeze plugs on my Jeep it can get plenty muddy in there but I'm holding out hope the amateur drain, fill and drain again got most of the bad stuff for now on the camaro
@@picklesgarage I read about half and half of the coolant is in the block and other is in the radiator and hoses etc. I will do a drain once every 2 weeks or so once I get it back running and see what kind of crap still comes out. I figure for 15.90 a gallon of good green and a buck for gallon of distilled, I could drain it about 4 times for sixty bucks or so. Probably not the smartest way, but also the safer bet for now. I have had it down for over a month, looking into all this stuff and mainly avoiding 103 degrees with 80 plus % humidity after the short rains lately. Now its in the 80s and with a few good fans blowing a much better working condition. PS I saw your gaskets kind of bunched up around the bolts, from where you did the first replace and then this time, that was great to see because I assumed that shape on my old gasket was gasket sealant, but I now think it was a dry gasket as you suggest from the factory all along. It is a pop on job now that I don't have to mess with RTV and a the RTV covered gasket falling off onto dirty frame etc. THANKS AGAIN YOUR VIDEOS ARE VERY WELL DONE
@barneythedog977 Sounds good, yeah the heat is killer at the moment. I pulled the ac so there's a few months I can't go near the car and working on it is brutal. Sure thing, I appreciate it!
I was talking to the mechanic. He said don’t get MSD he had 2 bad one finally the 3rd one was ok . He said just get OEM opti spark . Did u have any issues with MSD ? Also water pump replacement was sujrsted
@alirezashirazifard8990 I haven't had any issues with my MSD but keep in mind this is just the cap so if there is an issue with the rotor then it won't matter how many caps you throw at it. There is the much more expensive cap and rotor from MSD that is pretty highly reviewed. To be honest it's a flawed design in general so if you aren't careful it's pretty easy to damage even a good part. Issue with the OEM optis is a lot of them still have the flaws that make these so easy to break, ie lack of vent tube and holes at the bottom that water can splash up into. Plus some of these OEM are made really cheaply. But yes I HIGHLY recommend replacing the water pump while doing this. Most of these optis are going out because liquid has got inside the cap which is mostly happening because of a bad water pump like the seals to the block are bad or the weep hole so the last thing you want to do is put a new opti whether is OEM or MSD and it fail for the same reason the last one did. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
Yeah, good luck finding an OEM unit, I recently had mine replaced and the shop told me they couldn't locate an OEM one, so to expedite things I went with the complete MSD unit, we'll see what happens, it's got to be better than cheap E - Bay shit!
@javieralvarez7454 I went thru partsgeek, a lot of them are similar I went with this www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1993/chevrolet/camaro/engine_electrical/distributor_cap.html?rp=distributor_cap_and_rotor_kit
No, if you take out the passenger side electric fan you should have the room you need to take out the water pump. You have to rotate it a bit but it will come out without removing the whole radiator. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
@dashawnjacksonblitz So the main issue with the stock opti sparks is moisture will get in and it will foul the connections. The plastic tube connected to the metal intake manifold itself creates a vacuum. So that along with the other tube you will see connected to the plastic intake itself allows for fresh clean air in and it pulls moisture out. This should make your opti last longer and avoid the main design flaws of the origional.
Hey, I show around the 26 minute mark the additional pack that comes with the opti. Should have everything you need outside of basic socket set for the rest of the removal. Thanks for watching
I ordered the 500 jegs msd kit with the opti, cap, coil, and ordered a (definitely ac delco) ign module, my car stalls when it warms up occasionally and I figure I'll just go ahead and beat around the bush and do it all, im gonna look into picking up a water pump for it since it's there, im not against not replacing it it's my car but since everybody says so I might
@aronsaleaf4726 Yeah, id say opti related, mine would pop, sputter and try to die until I updated. I definitely made the mistake of not replacing as much as I could when I was just doing my water pump. You'll be glad you did for sure.
The harder part is getting it off the metal sort of fuses a bit. Getting it back on you just have to make sure it's lined up and then slowly alternate while tightening the bolts and it will come back on snugly. You might use a little grease if there's a lot of build up but I wouldn't unless you absolutely need to otherwise it should come on fine without.
Dude.... when you get in there like that you HAVE to do everything! Including coolant hoses and belt!! Let this guys experience be a lesson for everyone!! If you don't plan on changing EVERYTHING then you shouldn't be in there!!! Especially in the Fbody platform!!
@SteveO95 I assume you mean the gasket for the cover and not the actual chain right? If you mean you put a new chain on then you completely wasted your time effort and money! The LT1 actually all SBC engines have a very strong timing chain I've never heard of anyone having timing chain problems on a LT1 or anything that isn't overhead cams! If you have overhead cams or a timing BELT (not chain) then definitely but absolutely no need to change the timing chain on the LT1 or any OHV engines.
@SteveO95 a timing chain should last the whole life of the engine without needing to be changed as long as regular maintenance has been done. But if regular maintenance hasn't been done regular throughout its life other issues will arise! If you're rebuilding the engine of course throw a new one in.
I found out that the hose that goes through the throttle body from the radiator area and comes out the other side to a 3 inch elbow hose connected to a metal line are the same exact size. They sell rip off kits to connect the lines after a bypass, I simply snipped the line back for fresh hose and used the main line right to the metal tube and done , trashed the 3 inch line. Please tell me there's not something I am missing because am I the only one who saw that option?? Seems like a simple free and best way to go!
Well crap, I did everything and so far no leaks. I have tried burping it a few times, thought I had it done, a 5 mile drive all good, come home and it started over heating fast, I noticed the first time I ran it it started to over heat and the fans where not coming on. I realized I forgot the run the heater so once I did that it seems all good and the fans came on fine. And idea what is wrong with my fans??? Any help would be great, I will try again to burp it, THANKS PICKLE THANKS to anyone for help as well!!
@barneythedog977 Yeah I always double check there's no air pocket especially if you are burping it in a driveway that isn't level. I essentially have the cap off and then that bleed valve open. Then top off with it running until it starts to rise in the radiator, put the cap on and then wait for fluid to come out the bleed valve then close it Ill do that a couple times after it cools back down again Id rather lose a little more coolant than I need to than over heat. I do know with most electric fans they don't turn on until it hits a certain temp but if it was overheating they should have kicked on. Might have to replace the sensor but I'd double check on the air pocket first maybe it's messing with it getting a good read. If they came on when you had the heater going then that should mean you are fine on the wiring and everything, just might be the trigger thats messed up.
@@picklesgarage Thanks man! Tell me please what sensor should I check. I am getting a good reading on the dash so that sensor is working fine. I hope there is another one I can replace if needed. It was in a garage on four jack stands, as level as can be I think. I will try that exact way to burp it asap. I read in the manual I think, that it could take a few times to get all the air pockets out.
@barneythedog977 Yeah might just be some extra air in there then. The sensor I'm referring to is on the front of the water pump lower driver side it has a brass fitting and then a plug. Not sure if you replaced that one with the new pump. It's probably functioning OK it's more likely an air pocket but if you had to replace that they are pretty cheap.
@@picklesgarage I stuck the old one back in, isn't that the one that reads on my dash, which reads fine at least works, not sure if its accurate? I would replace it if needed in a heart beat. Will it leak all over, if so I could do another half arse flush and replace it. I WAS LUCKY TO SHUT IT OFF THE FIRST TIME, IT WAS RGIHT AT THE EMERGENCY TEMP READING, JUST BELOW FOR SURE BUT SCARY.
@barneythedog977 So there are technically 2. The one on the water pump connects to the ECU which can make changes to air fuel mixture and should signal to the fans. There's another temp sensor on the driver side head that should be what connects to the gauge. Still might just be the air pocket issue it's really easy with these especially with all that got opened up.
I am happy to see a well made choice for 252 ish. I just heard when I doubt size 10 loll I literally said to myself the other day man is 90 on stuff 10 mill now
@barneythedog977 Haha yeah they get ridiculous. Sometimes on the cheaper ones it's just the cap not a whole new opti so you have to sort of modify the old opti and replace the cap. That's the option I went with because I wasn't about to throw 700 at it and a pump and I didn't want to bother with a cheap opti either. Yeah 10 mill everything I always start there haha.
Good job I am the original owner of a 95Z. I never had this done.
this is the video you mentioned in a reply to me on the water pump video, very cool. Easy to follow instructions, and very happy you include the socket sizes. I just grab the ones you mention and away we go. I don't plan on putting the MSD in, but maybe so, depends on what we see under the hood tonight.
@@mundanestuff Sounds good, thanks for checking it out and good luck to ya
The main reason they vented the opti was to remove ozone build up from the spark occurring across the rotor to cap. a sealed cap and functional vent are key to a long life for the optispark. I’m about to install the torqhead 24x kit in the next couple of months when I do my heads, cam, lifters, and roller rockers and do away with it.
DAMN PICKLE YOU ARE MY F HERO,, I JUST SPENT 10 BUCKS FOR HOSE CLAMP PLIERS TO BE HERE TOMORROW. The bulls**t I went through with these FFFFFF hose clamps was infuriating. They were maybe 30 years on the hose and what a pain in the ass to grip, even with 90 degree needle nose pliers. That is going to make my job so much more pro and faster
if you don't have the proper tool for the clamps ... a medium sized set of channel locks works as good as anything .
@@sangamonriverrats6769 true but the clamps were some how turned down and very hard to get anything to grab and squeeze them at all. All good now. I replaced some with easy hose screw bands
I tried MSD and it failed twice after about a year each time. Gave up on it after I found the shaft had a wobble to it. I hope you have better luck than I did. I finally went with Torqheads 24x setup.
very helpful video, about to replace mine in my '96 tomorrow night!
@aaronbonter9237 Thank you. Good luck to ya and thanks for watching!
After dealing with 3 bad optisparks. Im going with the Torqhead 24 x kit .when funds permit.
I had a torqhead ot had problems as well I replaced crank shaft sensors left and right got rid of it
I have a 93 lt1 corvette and it's the same thing. If you wanna do one, you might as well do it all if you're unsure.
We should make like a thin plastic cover that goes over the opti unit and has a opening for the plugs and vacuum lines that prevents splashing from underneath and water from washhing the enging getting directly on the opti itself
Take the whole unit off, it’s easier. You forgot the seals for pump and cam. If oil leak it will fail. Also make sure you line distributor up correctly or it won’t start. Start it up before putting water pump on just to be sure. Good video
spot on
How has the MSD opti-spark been holding up? I might purchase a MSD so I want to know what you think about it.
@HMV3-TIGER-FAN I saw an immediate improvement. I'll be honest I live somewhere hot and if you've seen some other videos of mine you'll know I don't have A/C so it has been sitting a little more than normal. But my issues were difficulty starting, popping, a sort of stumble at low speeds like it would jerk a little under hard acceleration and I haven't had any of those issues. I get the occasional comments here asking why you'd just get the cap and if you can cover the better part of a thousand dollars to get a whole new MSD opti and the recommended new water pump I would but the cap I did here resolved the issues I was having even with less testing just because it was effectively undrivable before anytime I jumped in. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
Pulling the whole fan assembly at once is probably faster than taking the individual fans off. It’s basically just slid into a slot straight down. I snatch them out as soon as I take the elbow off.
93-94 is non vented 95-97 is vented. If replacing the whole thing the drive is different for 93-94 vs 95-97. If you order the wrong one it no worky.
My 95 car has only had two opti's it's entire life. First was the original gm, and the other is my 7 year old MSD.
Great to hear they work well! Thanks for watching
My 1995 ss impala opti was bad replaced the whole unit from ac delco. Cap rotor and the electronics. Also all three front seals on timing cover.the old seals will leak oil onto opti and ruin it.
Where did you get a ac delco opti? I’ve been looking everywhere, can’t find it.
No longer available.A company in Texas called peritronics
I have a 1995 C4 Corvette. I replaced my opti-spark 4-5 times. Finally I got smart and purchased a torqhead LS type ignition replacement system for the optispark. It costs more up front, but you never have to worry about ever dealing with the uncertainty of getting left on the side of the road because of the unreliable opti spark. The absolute best part is it comes with a PCM that can be FULLY TUNED. So you can put in a bigger cam, get high flow heads, forced induction or any other mod you can think of. Don't waste your time and money with another optispark. I was seriously thinking of getting rid of my Vette until I found out about torqhead. If you go to Ellwein Engines UA-cam channel you'll see an engine builder Carl Ellwein that uses the Torqhead system on his 1995 SS Impala track car.
so you spent 1000 dollars vs like 50 bucks. wow
@@YungEagle3k And here we have someone who is commenting but has no clue what he's talking about. There's no way in the world you can get away with replacing an Opti-Spark for $50 unless you go to a junkyard which is not the smartest move. A replacement Opti-Spark by itself can cost upwards of $500... An Accel Opti-Spark on Summit Racing costs $433... And that's not including installation. Installation is another $500 if you're lucky. If you do it yourself you still need to replace the water pump and the belt tensioner. An AC Delco water pump will set you back $150... Now do that 5-6 times and you go away over $1000. But that's why you never listen to "experts" online. 90% of the time you'll get advice that'll cost you even more money than if you did it right the first time...
GM no longer makes the water pump or optispark as I found out at dealership.
torqhead is like 2200 bucks ... for that price i would just swap in my 6.0 LS....
I need to pull both balancwr and hub and i have a puller but i see people putting nuts on the bolts and i have no idea where they get those nuts becauae my puller did not come with nuts?
That gear on the back is oiled by the oil system in the block, no need to grease. Forget the wrap hole drain hose idea, just tap and put plug in.
If you don't ever want to have problems again swap in a 0411 pcm and tune it with hptuners.
Will this optispark work on a 1993 c4 corvette?
Technically it was advertised for the Corvette actually. Small differences between the LT1 in the Corvette verse camaro mostly belt set up and some internals. You should be fine running this on your Corvette but note the MSD I got is just the cap. You'll see ones for $700+ that will be the whole opti if you're looking for a full replace.
95 vette here.opti went last year and bought a 200 dollar piece from auto zone lasted 2 months.then bought jegs 200 dollar junk.came in with sloppy drive shaft and just sent it back.bought 450$ PETRIS OPTI AND BEEN GREAT EVER SINCE.also put something on the water pump p hole to direct coolant around the opti if it goes bad and they like to if your yamming on it hard they dont like the higher rpms.also if you have an original factory opti keep the Mitsubishi optical sensor.switch it to the new unit you bought especially if its a cheaper unit than petris.
Did the Petris opti come with Mitsubishi sensor ?
@@adrianbinger8397 don't think it was and it says on their site Mitsubishi GRADE optical sensor so no but it's still running strong.
What all did you have to do to tie in the second hose to vent the Opti? The 2nd hose on the driver's side. Any pics would be greatly appreciated!
I don't think it will let me send photos but there is a plastic vacuum line under where the brake booster hose connects to the driver side of the block. These are very brittle but you can find them online if they break. I had to cut it so it was a straight line and so the supplied hose forms a T. Like this:[engine]-|
Here's the name of them so you know what to look for: Pressure Sensor Vacuum Hose 96451064
Thank you very much, I appreciate it!
Did anybody notice the briggs & stratton symbol on the harmonic balancer lol. Interesting
Man, the bottom vacuum line has disconnected on my Opti for my 1994 corvette. I think I need to take everything out to reach it...
Buy a pair of long needle nose pliers with 30 degree bent ends. This will allow long reach and you can squeeze the spring clamp to secure the vacuum hose. It takes patience.
I appreciate your video. Please KEEP YOUR HANDS OUT OF THE SHOT SO WE CAN SEE THINGS!!
MSD charges $250 to rebuild its LT1 distributor and it includes shipping.
Pickle, I wussed out of removing my engine knock sensors/drain plugs on each side of the engine because my largest snap on standard socket wrench was not enough and I guess I need to use my 20 inch breaker bar. I felt like it might break on me because the sensor is some weird nut/sensor combo. Have you ever fully drain your LT1 that way. I figured I would do the halfass radiator drain only a few times and slowly get most dirt out. Thanks for helping
Yeah I haven't done a complete flush on mine yet. I do need to but I have completely drained mine a few times for different reasons thru the hoses and gave it the gooda 'nuff. Found out when changing the freeze plugs on my Jeep it can get plenty muddy in there but I'm holding out hope the amateur drain, fill and drain again got most of the bad stuff for now on the camaro
@@picklesgarage I read about half and half of the coolant is in the block and other is in the radiator and hoses etc. I will do a drain once every 2 weeks or so once I get it back running and see what kind of crap still comes out. I figure for 15.90 a gallon of good green and a buck for gallon of distilled, I could drain it about 4 times for sixty bucks or so. Probably not the smartest way, but also the safer bet for now. I have had it down for over a month, looking into all this stuff and mainly avoiding 103 degrees with 80 plus % humidity after the short rains lately. Now its in the 80s and with a few good fans blowing a much better working condition. PS I saw your gaskets kind of bunched up around the bolts, from where you did the first replace and then this time, that was great to see because I assumed that shape on my old gasket was gasket sealant, but I now think it was a dry gasket as you suggest from the factory all along. It is a pop on job now that I don't have to mess with RTV and a the RTV covered gasket falling off onto dirty frame etc. THANKS AGAIN YOUR VIDEOS ARE VERY WELL DONE
@barneythedog977 Sounds good, yeah the heat is killer at the moment. I pulled the ac so there's a few months I can't go near the car and working on it is brutal. Sure thing, I appreciate it!
I’m going through coil and ignition control modules. A set about 6-8 months they fail. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Acdelco!! And the optispark should be petris.
@@C4VETTELT1 yes. Opti is Petris
I was talking to the mechanic. He said don’t get MSD he had 2 bad one finally the 3rd one was ok .
He said just get OEM opti spark . Did u have any issues with MSD ?
Also water pump replacement was sujrsted
@alirezashirazifard8990 I haven't had any issues with my MSD but keep in mind this is just the cap so if there is an issue with the rotor then it won't matter how many caps you throw at it. There is the much more expensive cap and rotor from MSD that is pretty highly reviewed. To be honest it's a flawed design in general so if you aren't careful it's pretty easy to damage even a good part. Issue with the OEM optis is a lot of them still have the flaws that make these so easy to break, ie lack of vent tube and holes at the bottom that water can splash up into. Plus some of these OEM are made really cheaply. But yes I HIGHLY recommend replacing the water pump while doing this. Most of these optis are going out because liquid has got inside the cap which is mostly happening because of a bad water pump like the seals to the block are bad or the weep hole so the last thing you want to do is put a new opti whether is OEM or MSD and it fail for the same reason the last one did. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
Yeah, good luck finding an OEM unit, I recently had mine replaced and the shop told me they couldn't locate an OEM one, so to expedite things I went with the complete MSD unit, we'll see what happens, it's got to be better than cheap E - Bay shit!
@@timsacco6g694rock auto has a lot of them
You have the link to the optispark you bought?
@javieralvarez7454 I went thru partsgeek, a lot of them are similar I went with this www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1993/chevrolet/camaro/engine_electrical/distributor_cap.html?rp=distributor_cap_and_rotor_kit
Did you remove the radiator?
No, if you take out the passenger side electric fan you should have the room you need to take out the water pump. You have to rotate it a bit but it will come out without removing the whole radiator. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.
Yes thank you very much
what is that long plastic tube connected to the intake and what does it do?
@dashawnjacksonblitz So the main issue with the stock opti sparks is moisture will get in and it will foul the connections. The plastic tube connected to the metal intake manifold itself creates a vacuum. So that along with the other tube you will see connected to the plastic intake itself allows for fresh clean air in and it pulls moisture out. This should make your opti last longer and avoid the main design flaws of the origional.
@@picklesgarage ohhhhh ok, yeah that makes sense. Thanks and thanks for the video!
@@dashawnjacksonblitz Sure thing, thanks for watching!
So did the tool come w that kit
Hey, I show around the 26 minute mark the additional pack that comes with the opti. Should have everything you need outside of basic socket set for the rest of the removal. Thanks for watching
@@picklesgarage I was watching it at work initially
I ordered the 500 jegs msd kit with the opti, cap, coil, and ordered a (definitely ac delco) ign module, my car stalls when it warms up occasionally and I figure I'll just go ahead and beat around the bush and do it all, im gonna look into picking up a water pump for it since it's there, im not against not replacing it it's my car but since everybody says so I might
@aronsaleaf4726 Yeah, id say opti related, mine would pop, sputter and try to die until I updated. I definitely made the mistake of not replacing as much as I could when I was just doing my water pump. You'll be glad you did for sure.
How you put the pulley back on
The harder part is getting it off the metal sort of fuses a bit. Getting it back on you just have to make sure it's lined up and then slowly alternate while tightening the bolts and it will come back on snugly. You might use a little grease if there's a lot of build up but I wouldn't unless you absolutely need to otherwise it should come on fine without.
@@picklesgarage sweet dude thank you!!!
@@soulsoothing6133 Sure thing, thanks for watching!
Dude.... when you get in there like that you HAVE to do everything! Including coolant hoses and belt!! Let this guys experience be a lesson for everyone!! If you don't plan on changing EVERYTHING then you shouldn't be in there!!! Especially in the Fbody platform!!
With 125k on mine, I also did the timing chain, yes a good idea to do alot of other stuff too
@SteveO95 I assume you mean the gasket for the cover and not the actual chain right? If you mean you put a new chain on then you completely wasted your time effort and money! The LT1 actually all SBC engines have a very strong timing chain I've never heard of anyone having timing chain problems on a LT1 or anything that isn't overhead cams! If you have overhead cams or a timing BELT (not chain) then definitely but absolutely no need to change the timing chain on the LT1 or any OHV engines.
@SteveO95 a timing chain should last the whole life of the engine without needing to be changed as long as regular maintenance has been done. But if regular maintenance hasn't been done regular throughout its life other issues will arise! If you're rebuilding the engine of course throw a new one in.
@@C4VETTELT1 I replaced the cover, and looked at the chain and said why not.
I found out that the hose that goes through the throttle body from the radiator area and comes out the other side to a 3 inch elbow hose connected to a metal line are the same exact size. They sell rip off kits to connect the lines after a bypass, I simply snipped the line back for fresh hose and used the main line right to the metal tube and done , trashed the 3 inch line. Please tell me there's not something I am missing because am I the only one who saw that option?? Seems like a simple free and best way to go!
@barneythedog977 Yeah that sounds like it checks out, great tip for sure!
I am definitely not looking forward to doing this on my 94
delete it completely! Buy the 24x kit
Just replace the unit. Taking it apart like this makes no sense. Also since you are so deep here...replace the timing chain as well.
Well crap, I did everything and so far no leaks. I have tried burping it a few times, thought I had it done, a 5 mile drive all good, come home and it started over heating fast, I noticed the first time I ran it it started to over heat and the fans where not coming on. I realized I forgot the run the heater so once I did that it seems all good and the fans came on fine. And idea what is wrong with my fans??? Any help would be great, I will try again to burp it, THANKS PICKLE THANKS to anyone for help as well!!
@barneythedog977 Yeah I always double check there's no air pocket especially if you are burping it in a driveway that isn't level. I essentially have the cap off and then that bleed valve open. Then top off with it running until it starts to rise in the radiator, put the cap on and then wait for fluid to come out the bleed valve then close it Ill do that a couple times after it cools back down again Id rather lose a little more coolant than I need to than over heat. I do know with most electric fans they don't turn on until it hits a certain temp but if it was overheating they should have kicked on. Might have to replace the sensor but I'd double check on the air pocket first maybe it's messing with it getting a good read. If they came on when you had the heater going then that should mean you are fine on the wiring and everything, just might be the trigger thats messed up.
@@picklesgarage Thanks man! Tell me please what sensor should I check. I am getting a good reading on the dash so that sensor is working fine. I hope there is another one I can replace if needed. It was in a garage on four jack stands, as level as can be I think. I will try that exact way to burp it asap. I read in the manual I think, that it could take a few times to get all the air pockets out.
@barneythedog977 Yeah might just be some extra air in there then. The sensor I'm referring to is on the front of the water pump lower driver side it has a brass fitting and then a plug. Not sure if you replaced that one with the new pump. It's probably functioning OK it's more likely an air pocket but if you had to replace that they are pretty cheap.
@@picklesgarage I stuck the old one back in, isn't that the one that reads on my dash, which reads fine at least works, not sure if its accurate? I would replace it if needed in a heart beat. Will it leak all over, if so I could do another half arse flush and replace it. I WAS LUCKY TO SHUT IT OFF THE FIRST TIME, IT WAS RGIHT AT THE EMERGENCY TEMP READING, JUST BELOW FOR SURE BUT SCARY.
@barneythedog977 So there are technically 2. The one on the water pump connects to the ECU which can make changes to air fuel mixture and should signal to the fans. There's another temp sensor on the driver side head that should be what connects to the gauge. Still might just be the air pocket issue it's really easy with these especially with all that got opened up.
Bro why the heck does the MSD go from 252 to 675 in price lol. How much can they justify that, I guess maybe one is for racing ??
I am happy to see a well made choice for 252 ish. I just heard when I doubt size 10 loll I literally said to myself the other day man is 90 on stuff 10 mill now
@barneythedog977 Haha yeah they get ridiculous. Sometimes on the cheaper ones it's just the cap not a whole new opti so you have to sort of modify the old opti and replace the cap. That's the option I went with because I wasn't about to throw 700 at it and a pump and I didn't want to bother with a cheap opti either. Yeah 10 mill everything I always start there haha.
@@picklesgarage Oh ok so its more of a rebuild than a full opti, makes sense.