I was just introduced to your microcrystal wax bowl finis at Woodcraft. Searched you tube and found this video. Very good explanation and understood. Q: I have watched videos on sanding recommending to use the final product as a sanding lubricant. Do you recommend to do that with your product? Thank You
Thank you for your reply and I bought your walnut finishing oil..... worked great. I just did an African Wenge Platter with the oil finish but did not friction finish yet because I would like to use the microcrystal wax on top of it. Q:1 Assuming that it’s ok, should I friction finish the oil before applying the microcrystal wax? Thank you . .
Yes, it is. I hope your elbows are greasier than mine. Ther needs to be significant heat on the surface to set the oil and melt and distribute the wax.
TheDoctorswoodshop So then would the sun, a heat lamp, hair dryer, etc. work as well to set the oil and melt the wax? I love the look of the results but don’t have a lathe or buffer.
The difference is the wax. I prefer the DOC-110 with microaggregated Cosmolloid 80H, a synthetic wax. Some customers prefer the natural product, DOC-101(the original formulation) with microaggregated carnauba wax.
Will this finish hold up against acidic juices ? (Olive, tomato)
The oil/wax finishes do very well against acids including vinegar. Like any salad bowl finish, it will require redressing after some time in use.
Thank you
I checked out your site. Gonna have to try some of your finishes out. Thanks for sharing your approach and products.
I was just introduced to your microcrystal wax bowl finis at Woodcraft. Searched you tube and found this video. Very good explanation and understood.
Q: I have watched videos on sanding recommending to use the final product as a sanding lubricant. Do you recommend to do that with your product?
Thank You
The oil/wax finish will work just fine. I use the straight walnut oil.
Thank you for your reply and I bought your walnut finishing oil..... worked great. I just did an African Wenge Platter with the oil finish but did not friction finish yet because I would like to use the microcrystal wax on top of it.
Q:1 Assuming that it’s ok, should I friction finish the oil before applying the microcrystal wax?
Thank you
.
.
Is it possible to use the oil/wax without a lathe or other machinery? In other words, would some elbow grease create sufficient friction?
Yes, it is. I hope your elbows are greasier than mine. Ther needs to be significant heat on the surface to set the oil and melt and distribute the wax.
TheDoctorswoodshop So then would the sun, a heat lamp, hair dryer, etc. work as well to set the oil and melt the wax? I love the look of the results but don’t have a lathe or buffer.
@@jonmnelson Heat and light will set the oil. Melting the wax and spreading it evenly is the problem.
TheDoctorswoodshop Understood. Thank you!
Old time gunstock makers did it by hand , recipe was put a dab of finish on your hand rub that into entire stock firmly, repeat daily for couple weeks
Just got my order in! Can I ask where you purchased your dust collection arm for your lathe?
Looks like something I saw at Rockler not sure, Worth checking
I made some three part finish with shellac and it smells bad. i had the shellac for some time,is it possible the shellac was bad....thanks
What is the difference between this finish and the original bowl finish you make? Why is one better than the other?
Richard Katzman
The difference is the wax. I prefer the DOC-110 with microaggregated Cosmolloid 80H, a synthetic wax. Some customers prefer the natural product, DOC-101(the original formulation) with microaggregated carnauba wax.