I am curious, when I set the temp on the machine at say 200F (assuming that is the 'Coffee Boiler' temp, should the group head temp match that and also be 200F? I am seeing the group head temp be about ~4d F lower than the set temp. Unsure how accurate the temp probes are but assume they are indeed accurate - I have pretty soft water and descale on schedule but is it possible the grouped probe has scaling? Easy to check?
@@jeffreywall5316 It's perfectly normal for there to be small deviations in those two elements. What really counts is the actual temperature of the water as it comes out. It's very hard to measure accurately and I often find its a bit out. On my machine i have it set to 96c which gives me an ideal 93c
@@BrevTech Understood. I don't have $700 for a scace so trying to make my own - drilled and tapped a spouted portafilter and am going to try to use my probe off a Thermoworks Thermapen or Chefalarm....I'll let you know how it goes.
Been enjoying your videos as thinking about getting a DB. Only thing putting me off is the reports of descaling problems. Can you offer any insight into ut, is it still an issue on newer machines?
Thank you, I do plan on doing a video all about this. It just takes a lot of time to research. It appears Breville have put in extra checks on the newer oracle touch but I’ve not got a new dual boiler to try. For now, I’d recommend getting an energy meter plug so you can see exactly which boiler is turning on when. With this, you can easily avoid the risks. Maybe I’ll do an interim video on how to do this
Hey!, My machine doesn't Rise in temperature, it stops at about 141 and just stays there i can't make any shots at all as the machine won't go to the operating 200 temp, steam wand works fine as well as the hot water knob works fine, reading the forums online i don't see anything about the breville dual boiler not reaching temp/under temp, i only see threads about the machine going over temp. have you experienced any machine that just hovers below temp?, i have replaced the o rings and the machine still won't reach temp to be able to do a shot. thanks in advance for your reply! hope to gain some insight from you or anyone else reading this, Thanks!
More than likely, yes. I have a video on the triac board you can use. You will also have a leak inside on the steam boiler that has caused the triac board to fail. I suggest getting an o-ring kit and the triac board kit to fix this.
@BrevTech yeah I watched that one too, it moved a little quick during the multimeter testing but I suppose it won't matter if I just replace all the components. I managed to fill the tanks all to H by unplugging a probe and keeping the steam wand open while running, but I think the coffee boiler is my problem. The hot water tap was blowing steam! The first temp was well over 100, others were mid 80s
@@swempthebemp just replace TA2 and ISO4 on the triac board as those correspond to the coffee boiler. You probably know this already, but I would avoid using it and switch it off at the wall before the thermal fuse on the coffee boiler goes.
Thanks for the video! I'm getting HHL, and then temps are 87, 155, 69 (machine is set to celcius). I'm assuming this is bad that the steam boiler is getting that hot. I'm planning on trying to replace the O rings to see if that helps. Any other recommendations?
yes, if it goes over 167c the fuse will blow and you'll be in a world of trouble. Check my other menu on repairing the triac board as it will be that (and also the orings)
Hi Brev Tech, I could not get to the boiler temp checks. After my machine went through all the self checking, it stopped at HLH which obviously meant Low water in the boiler and pressing the menu button, the machine would not go any further. So am thinking despite my water tank being full the steam boiler is not filling up. Any ideas, as I did my first ever De-Scale, and of course no steam either...grrr :) ps My PCB version is A113
Yes HLH means your boiler is empty. That middle 'L' controls the steam boiler element. Can you hear the steam pump trying to fill it? As for getting the temps up on the screen: you need to press menu and down arrow together.
it means your steam boiler high level (red) is not reading any water. It may just be that you've switched it off just after making milk and its not had the chance to refill yet. When you turn it back on you should hear the steam pump run for a while.
Please help me! This morning when I turn on my BES990, the boiler wouldn’t heat up over 70C😢 please give me some advice to fixed the problem. THANK YOU
I suspect the P stands for Pass. I’ve got a machine with a bad ulka pump and when running this test I don’t get a P after running the hot water tap, but on my second machine with a brand new pump I get the P. Will update you once I replace the bad pump and retest. As for second number when you enter the menu, I’d be surprised that it’s the firmware number. The BES900 I’ve says 60 and so does my BES920. I wonder if this is the frequency of the power it’s connected to or meant to run on. The US (where I live) is 60hz. Are you by chance in the UK? Also noticed a 2 new things: On the newer BES920s (2024 year Model). Power needs to be on, then you hold the manual and exit button, unplug and replug it in. And there seems to be a test of the pump when you click DOWN on the first option of that service menu
I can verify the P stands for Pass. With the new ulka pump it now says P. Interestingly enough mine has two Fs and the second F, which I suspect stands for the steam pump, does not say P when running the steam wand even though there are no symptoms of a bad pump yet. So it must be doing some type of current draw or flow meter check to determine if the pump has any issues.
Long time BES920 owner (on my 3rd) and all 3 have what I call the 'post nasal drip syndrome' whereby the hot water outlet (not the steam wand) drips / leaks during shot extraction, especially under high(er) pressure (~ 9+ bar) I finally begged a VP at Breville to send me the hot water valve (actually the 'needle valve' which in the end, they were so kind as to let me purchase one for $30.00 USD (Part # SP0014213) After replacing it the PNDS stopped....for a few months, only to return like clock work. I have surmised the issue to be with the o-rings themselves and not the actual valve component. I basically need $.02 parts to fix a $30.00 issue on a $1,300.00 machine. Any idea where I could obtain replacement o-rings for the SP0014213 needle valves?
@@BrevTech I truly dislike taking care of my equipment only to learn that the manufacturer no longer offers replacement parts and I have to fight them to send me a tiny part in order to keep an entire machine working. I'll see what my google machine says about the 2mm CS x 3mm ID EPDM....if I find a few and buy them I'll report back as to whether or not they worked. I find the probability of me owning 3 920XLs and all 3 doing the same thing very interesting. I tend to extract on the higher side of 9 bar and wondered if that might have something to do with it but doubted it - seems like it's just the material + hot water (temperature) that cause the rings to shrink or wear enough to let water pass. Also troubling is that I know the hot water value reduces extraction flow/pressure and will even stop it if accidentally turned on so it's having an impact on the overall extraction - to what degree I cannot tell as I don't own a thermofilter/scace and can't justify buying one....at least not for the 920XL.
@@BrevTech I don't have the most expensive digital caliper around but after zeroing it the 2 o-rings on the stem of the needle valve measure OD: 7mm ID: 4mm with thickness being 1.5mm (color orange) it's going to be interesting to see if I can find EPDM replacements for those and if they work. I am pretty disciplined about taking care of my equipment and am not hard on it by any means so who knows - just my good luck!
@@jeffreywall5316 I went a little thicker on mine to account for wear as my worn ones measured about 1.5mm. They are due to arrive soon, so i'll let you know
that stuffed that theory then! thanks. I found another on YT with 60 tho. One day i'm going to have a crack at dumping/reversing the firmware. Then all these secrets will be found!
When are you going to learn, large and small youtube channels, never to have music in the video when you talk, never!!!! Of course I don't watch your video I turn it off immediately when I hear you trying to talk through the music.
Tip: get some subscribers before giving out arrogant advice 😂 Saying that, I was thinking the same thing when I watched one back. It sounded ok before upload so UA-cam must increase the background volume during processing. As I never watch my own videos I didn’t notice until recently.
Slight correction from the video: H H H corresponds to: Coffee boiler, Steam Boiler Low, Steam Boiler High
I am curious, when I set the temp on the machine at say 200F (assuming that is the 'Coffee Boiler' temp, should the group head temp match that and also be 200F? I am seeing the group head temp be about ~4d F lower than the set temp. Unsure how accurate the temp probes are but assume they are indeed accurate - I have pretty soft water and descale on schedule but is it possible the grouped probe has scaling? Easy to check?
@@jeffreywall5316 It's perfectly normal for there to be small deviations in those two elements. What really counts is the actual temperature of the water as it comes out. It's very hard to measure accurately and I often find its a bit out. On my machine i have it set to 96c which gives me an ideal 93c
@@BrevTech Understood. I don't have $700 for a scace so trying to make my own - drilled and tapped a spouted portafilter and am going to try to use my probe off a Thermoworks Thermapen or Chefalarm....I'll let you know how it goes.
Great video, Thank you!!! keep it up mate.
Nice tips, as always… ❤❤❤
Been enjoying your videos as thinking about getting a DB. Only thing putting me off is the reports of descaling problems. Can you offer any insight into ut, is it still an issue on newer machines?
Thank you, I do plan on doing a video all about this. It just takes a lot of time to research. It appears Breville have put in extra checks on the newer oracle touch but I’ve not got a new dual boiler to try. For now, I’d recommend getting an energy meter plug so you can see exactly which boiler is turning on when. With this, you can easily avoid the risks. Maybe I’ll do an interim video on how to do this
Thanks for the advice and a interim video would be ace
Awesome videos, thank you. I can't access the shot count. When I press the 1 and 2 shot plus power buttons it just resets the machine.
Thanks! It sounds like you have either a bes900 or old firmware version. Hold all 4 little buttons while you switch on
Maybe one thing that is relevant that is missing. what should be the temperatures we should see when?
fair point. i'll add them into the description.
Hey!, My machine doesn't Rise in temperature, it stops at about 141 and just stays there i can't make any shots at all as the machine won't go to the operating 200 temp, steam wand works fine as well as the hot water knob works fine, reading the forums online i don't see anything about the breville dual boiler not reaching temp/under temp, i only see threads about the machine going over temp. have you experienced any machine that just hovers below temp?, i have replaced the o rings and the machine still won't reach temp to be able to do a shot. thanks in advance for your reply! hope to gain some insight from you or anyone else reading this, Thanks!
Hey, its most likely the triac board. i'm making a video about this now. In the meantime, the self check menu should tell you which boiler is cold.
Thanks for the video! My first boiler says L and temp was super high, would this be a triac problem?
More than likely, yes. I have a video on the triac board you can use. You will also have a leak inside on the steam boiler that has caused the triac board to fail. I suggest getting an o-ring kit and the triac board kit to fix this.
@BrevTech yeah I watched that one too, it moved a little quick during the multimeter testing but I suppose it won't matter if I just replace all the components.
I managed to fill the tanks all to H by unplugging a probe and keeping the steam wand open while running, but I think the coffee boiler is my problem. The hot water tap was blowing steam! The first temp was well over 100, others were mid 80s
@@swempthebemp just replace TA2 and ISO4 on the triac board as those correspond to the coffee boiler. You probably know this already, but I would avoid using it and switch it off at the wall before the thermal fuse on the coffee boiler goes.
@BrevTech perfect, I'll place an order now. Appreciate your guidance! And yep I unplugged it straight away 👌
My Oracle is not taping coffee down after grinding. What can I do to correct this? Thank you
Thanks for the video! I'm getting HHL, and then temps are 87, 155, 69 (machine is set to celcius). I'm assuming this is bad that the steam boiler is getting that hot. I'm planning on trying to replace the O rings to see if that helps. Any other recommendations?
yes, if it goes over 167c the fuse will blow and you'll be in a world of trouble. Check my other menu on repairing the triac board as it will be that (and also the orings)
Hi Brev Tech, I could not get to the boiler temp checks. After my machine went through all the self checking, it stopped at HLH which obviously meant Low water in the boiler and pressing the menu button, the machine would not go any further. So am thinking despite my water tank being full the steam boiler is not filling up. Any ideas, as I did my first ever De-Scale, and of course no steam either...grrr :) ps My PCB version is A113
Yes HLH means your boiler is empty. That middle 'L' controls the steam boiler element. Can you hear the steam pump trying to fill it? As for getting the temps up on the screen: you need to press menu and down arrow together.
I'm learning a lot from your videos. When I did the self check, I got H H L code, should I worry about it ? Thanks
it means your steam boiler high level (red) is not reading any water. It may just be that you've switched it off just after making milk and its not had the chance to refill yet. When you turn it back on you should hear the steam pump run for a while.
@@BrevTech Thank you very much ! Great work !
Please help me! This morning when I turn on my BES990, the boiler wouldn’t heat up over 70C😢 please give me some advice to fixed the problem. THANK YOU
Oh dear. I recommend you watch the triac and steam boiler repair videos. good luck!
I suspect the P stands for Pass. I’ve got a machine with a bad ulka pump and when running this test I don’t get a P after running the hot water tap, but on my second machine with a brand new pump I get the P. Will update you once I replace the bad pump and retest.
As for second number when you enter the menu, I’d be surprised that it’s the firmware number. The BES900 I’ve says 60 and so does my BES920. I wonder if this is the frequency of the power it’s connected to or meant to run on. The US (where I live) is 60hz. Are you by chance in the UK?
Also noticed a 2 new things:
On the newer BES920s (2024 year
Model). Power needs to be on, then you hold the manual and exit button, unplug and replug it in.
And there seems to be a test of the pump when you click DOWN on the first option of that service menu
I can verify the P stands for Pass. With the new ulka pump it now says P. Interestingly enough mine has two Fs and the second F, which I suspect stands for the steam pump, does not say P when running the steam wand even though there are no symptoms of a bad pump yet. So it must be doing some type of current draw or flow meter check to determine if the pump has any issues.
Interesting! thanks for your contribution
@@BrevTechof course! Thank you for having such an amazing resource up!
Long time BES920 owner (on my 3rd) and all 3 have what I call the 'post nasal drip syndrome' whereby the hot water outlet (not the steam wand) drips / leaks during shot extraction, especially under high(er) pressure (~ 9+ bar) I finally begged a VP at Breville to send me the hot water valve (actually the 'needle valve' which in the end, they were so kind as to let me purchase one for $30.00 USD (Part # SP0014213) After replacing it the PNDS stopped....for a few months, only to return like clock work. I have surmised the issue to be with the o-rings themselves and not the actual valve component. I basically need $.02 parts to fix a $30.00 issue on a $1,300.00 machine. Any idea where I could obtain replacement o-rings for the SP0014213 needle valves?
coincidently, i'm in the process of making a video about that now. I'm also trying to source some. I've order 2mm CS x 3mm ID EPDM to try those
@@BrevTech I truly dislike taking care of my equipment only to learn that the manufacturer no longer offers replacement parts and I have to fight them to send me a tiny part in order to keep an entire machine working. I'll see what my google machine says about the 2mm CS x 3mm ID EPDM....if I find a few and buy them I'll report back as to whether or not they worked. I find the probability of me owning 3 920XLs and all 3 doing the same thing very interesting. I tend to extract on the higher side of 9 bar and wondered if that might have something to do with it but doubted it - seems like it's just the material + hot water (temperature) that cause the rings to shrink or wear enough to let water pass. Also troubling is that I know the hot water value reduces extraction flow/pressure and will even stop it if accidentally turned on so it's having an impact on the overall extraction - to what degree I cannot tell as I don't own a thermofilter/scace and can't justify buying one....at least not for the 920XL.
@@jeffreywall5316 it’s not that common of a problem to be honest. I think you’ve been very unlucky to have 3 fail
@@BrevTech I don't have the most expensive digital caliper around but after zeroing it the 2 o-rings on the stem of the needle valve measure OD: 7mm ID: 4mm with thickness being 1.5mm (color orange) it's going to be interesting to see if I can find EPDM replacements for those and if they work. I am pretty disciplined about taking care of my equipment and am not hard on it by any means so who knows - just my good luck!
@@jeffreywall5316 I went a little thicker on mine to account for wear as my worn ones measured about 1.5mm. They are due to arrive soon, so i'll let you know
I have a new one with 60 shots and it said "50" on the second screen as well.
that stuffed that theory then! thanks. I found another on YT with 60 tho. One day i'm going to have a crack at dumping/reversing the firmware. Then all these secrets will be found!
60hz vs 50hz power frequency?
sao tôi nhấn exit và manual không vào được a1.12?
did you use the switch at the wall to turn it back on. it works on all version i've tried?
When are you going to learn, large and small youtube channels, never to have music in the video when you talk, never!!!!
Of course I don't watch your video I turn it off immediately when I hear you trying to talk through the music.
Tip: get some subscribers before giving out arrogant advice 😂 Saying that, I was thinking the same thing when I watched one back. It sounded ok before upload so UA-cam must increase the background volume during processing. As I never watch my own videos I didn’t notice until recently.