Відео

Yep, sounds like it could be. Run a cleaning cycle with a tablet as it may just be coffee oils on the solenoid plunger

@@BrevTech yeah I ran 2 cleaning cycles with cafeeza, but seems to still have this “sticky ” backflush symptom :(

@@vilddyr it probably needs replacing but you could try taking it apart and cleaning it first.

The steam pump can take a while - especially if you've drained the boiler. If its taking over 5mins, then it sounds like your steam pump might not be working. With the machine cold, borrow a tube from the steam wand circuit (if you dont have a spare) and connect it the the top of the steam pump, then the other end into a small plastic jug. Disconnect the red water level probe wire (controls steam pump) and switch on machine. The steam pump should kick in and fill the jug. If not (and you can hear it pumping) then you have a faulty pump. You can usually fix this with an oring

I've not had that one on this machine tbh. My first step if you can't find anything online is the service menu. Hold power button in then switch on at wall and wait. you should see a password prompt, which is 00000

@@BrevTech im getting er01 and er02 but when i check online nothing comes out for that.

@@misaelnegron7264 Check in the error menu for those codes. I believe that relates to the boiler NTC which is a common failure on those

this is usually either the pump or OPV. Take a light to the OPV tube to see if its going out through that when it fluctuates. if so replace it

@@jagati1 Hi, if the fuse was blown or switch was faulty you wouldn’t be able to read the 46 ohms across the element. The triac board is not sending power so the next thing I would check is water levels using the live debug menu. Did it die after a descale by chance? Sometimes they can get stuck and they don’t refill the boiler. You force it by unplugging the red wire on the water level probes and switching the machine on. It should hopefully kick in the steam pump. Let it run for 30 secs or so then try the machine again

@@BrevTech Thank you again. I will try it out in the next few days and will let you know how I go. I did not check the water probes int he debug menu I did not know what the VD and VR values meant (I have asked the question in another thread below), but will as soon as I reattach the lid and triac. The machine did start playing up after a descale but was still working albeit I could hear steam leaking inside for a few weeks. I bought a new machine (Breville Dual Boiler) and the Oracle sat for 2 months without being used. I took the Oracle in to a Breville service centre, they told me that I needed to replace the entire steam boiler, triac, coffee probes, coffee solenoid, o-rings for ~AUD$930. When I got it back the machine did not come up to temperature, not sure whether it was because the machine was sitting for so long or whether something got disconnected when it was being looked at. I watched your videos, bought the survival kit and want to save the machine. I replaced the water pump on the Oracle a few years back, replaced the solenoid once and feel that I could tackle the steam boiler with enough time, patience and the help from your videos.

Hi @BrevTech here are the debug values. I tried to disconnect the red wire from the steam boiler but no improvement. Looking at readings 8 and 9, there appears to be water in the steam boiler, however when I removed one of the probes and put a wire in there was no water in the boiler. The reading 10 the coffee boiler probe reading is way off. Could this be the cause of the boiler not turning on? Any other suggestions? Also the Tamper VR reading seems to be out of range too, do you know why that might be? 1 Coffee boiler temperature = 93 degrees 2 Steam boiler temperature = 14 degrees 3 Group head temperature = 93 degrees 4 Steam wand temperature Nil = 13 degrees 5 Coffee boiler status Nil = PID Off 6 Steam boiler status Nil = PID Off 7 Group head status Nil = PID Off 8 Steam high probe AD 1.>=391 AD Count without water 2.< 391 AD Count with water = 745 9 Steam low probe AD 1.>=391 AD Count without water 2.< 391 AD Count with water = 708 10 Coffee boiler probe AD 1.>=391 AD Count without water 2.< 391 AD Count with water = 0.74 11 Temper VR AD = 176 Setting 1: 256 AD Count Setting 2: 307 AD Count Setting 3: 358 AD Count Setting 4: 409 AD Count Setting 5: 460 AD Count Setting 6: 511 AD Count Setting 7: 562 AD Count Setting 8: 613 AD Count Setting 9: 256 AD Count *Note: If the temper VR AD valve is greater than the AD value of the corresponding valve, the tamper motor will stop at once 12 Temper Current Sense AD If the current sense AD count >= 828 AD count, the grinding process will be terminated = 0 13 Grind VR AD VR usable range: 744 Deg- 3120 Deg / 212 AD count - 887 AD Count = 437 Refer to Note 1 sheet for the ADC range of different 14 Flow meter 1 Count Nil = 0 15 Flow meter 1 count per second Nil = 0 16 Calculated flow rate of last 5 sec (ml/sec) = 0 17 Coffee solenoid status Nil = Off 18 Steam solenoid status Nil = Off 19 Hot water solenoid status = Off

Steam boiler has no water in. Disconnect the red wire like i said to force the boiler to fill. I think this might be a bug in the firmware as the readings show it's low, but i see this regularly where the pump doesn't come on

@@finnpetersen6013 that’s a good price! They are almost twice that price here

can you provide a link? what you bought and where. thanks in advance

If you don’t mind me asking where? Or a link

Thanks! Yes, it's a common issue. I think this is the part you might need (if it's the front): www.coffeepartswarehouse.com.au/breville-espresso-coffee-bes980-foot-holder-front-p-1777197.html

Thanks! If you're buying new, then it will come with the newer design boiler which does not require regular o-ring changes. If you are buying used, then you will almost certainly need to carry out some of the other repairs i have on this channel before long. Solenoids, o-rings and pumps etc. are all consumables, so no matter which machine you buy, eventually you'll need to replace these every 3-5yrs or so. It's usually a tradeoff between features vs things that go wrong. O-rings are the catalyst for many other problems on these, so if you keep on top of those then there's no reason it will last 10yrs+. I still see (albeit rare) 12yr old dual boilers that look brand new inside.

@@BrevTech thank you for the fast reply! I am considering buying new, as the dynamic duo just dropped to 1070€ in Germany. Do you see any downsides with the latest iteration of the (here Sage) dual boiler? Also, how did they adapt the boilers that they no longer use O-rings? And one final question: I've heard horror stories of dual boilers and especially oracles dying after a decalc cycle. Is this still a thing? And what would I have to do to prevent this from happening? Thank you so much once again for the insights! Your provided information makes me really reconsider the dual boiler

@@TechEtrix No downsides for buying the latest model. The use ptfe compression fittings instead of silicone o-rings, which last many years longer. As for the descale, don't over dose with solution as it can affect the machine and sometimes cause failures during descale. I always have my machines on an energy meter, so i can see how many watts or amps are being used. If its 3A then i know the steam boiler is not on so its safe to empty, but if its 7A+ then i know its heating up and to make sure the tank has water in or switch the machine off quickly! I'm in the process of doing some research around why it sometimes (more rarely) happens on the newer versions that were supposed to be "fixed"

@@BrevTech Really interesting insights, thanks! So keeping an eye on the BDB pulling <700W means that I'm good to go and can continue the descale. Does this mean that the software descale function does sometimes nevertheless turn on the boiler? Last question: how would I make sure after receiving my machine that it indeed is the latest version and not an old model that was stocked for months or years?

@@TechEtrix There are times during the descale that the steam boiler does need to come on (to heat up the descale solution) so i'm probably filling you with too many details, but 99% of the time you should be ok. Just make sure it doesn't come on just after it has asked you to drain the boiler as that is when the thermal fuse can blow. If a strong enough solution is covering the sensors inside the boiler, this tricks the machine into thinking it still has water in, so it turns up the heat. You can find a good thread about the dates of the new design here: coffeesnobs.com.au/forum/equipment/brewing-equipment-midrange-500-1500/943214-massive-news-for-breville-bes920-980-and-990-models-as-of-mid-2022

Hey mate, i have some high temp jbweld and low temp welding rods sitting here. I've not used either yet, but i do have a machine with a pinhole leak in the boiler, so i'm hoping to do a video on those when i get a chance

It sounds like you fixed the grouphead opto, but you might have a faulty thermal switch or fuse on the steam boiler. Go through my steam boiler repair video on how to check this

@@BrevTech I will check that next. I am pretty sure that either the fuse or at least the thermal switch of the steam boiler is bad. But I am anyhow still wondering why TA6 is still letting thru the full voltage when the machine is off. All 3 Optos and Triacs have been replaced by myself. I have used BTA16-600CW for all three.

@@ml.photo.graphy Those are the wrong type. You need BTA06T-600CW for the grouphead and Q6015L6 for the steam and coffee boilers. The gate current on yours is probably a lot lower so its switching on when it shouldn't. Check the link in the description as i sell the correct ones in a kit if you can't find any. I'll add this info into the description for others to refer to

@@BrevTech regarding the bta I think it should work with the 16Amp Version as well. The only difference is that it can carry 16a instead of just 6a

@@ml.photo.graphyI believe the T (snubberless) is important. I don’t know exactly why, but I’ve used those triacs you are using before and had problems.

Oh dear. I recommend you watch the triac and steam boiler repair videos. good luck!

1 Coffee boiler temperature 2 Steam boiler temperature 3 Group head temperature 4 Steam wand temperature Nil 5 Coffee boiler status Nil 6 Steam boiler status Nil 7 Group head status Nil 8 Steam high probe AD 1.>=391 AD Count without water 2.< 391 AD Count with water 9 Steam low probe AD 1.>=391 AD Count without water 2.< 391 AD Count with water 10 Coffee boiler probe AD 1.>=391 AD Count without water 2.< 391 AD Count with water 11 Temper VR AD Setting 1: 256 AD Count Setting 2: 307 AD Count Setting 3: 358 AD Count Setting 4: 409 AD Count Setting 5: 460 AD Count Setting 6: 511 AD Count Setting 7: 562 AD Count Setting 8: 613 AD Count Setting 9: 256 AD Count *Note: If the temper VR AD valve is greater than the AD value of the corresponding valve, the tamper motor will stop at once 12 Temper Current Sense AD If the current sense AD count >= 828 AD count, the grinding process will be terminated 13 Grind VR AD VR usable range: 744 Deg- 3120 Deg / 212 AD count - 887 AD Count Refer to Note 1 sheet for the ADC range of different 14 Flow meter 1 Count Nil 15 Flow meter 1 count per second Nil 16 Calculated flow rate of last 5 sec (ml/sec) 17 Coffee solenoid status Nil 18 Steam solenoid status Nil 19 Hot water solenoid status

Thank you so much😊

@@BrevTech Just another quick question, what do VR and AD signify and should 11 Tamper setting 9 be 664? All other settings seem to go up by 51.

@@jagati1 AD represents a number when converting from analog to digital. VR i think is voltage reference, which i assume is used when measuring how hard the tamp is working - maybe uses this to determine when puck is polished enough? i'm 100% just guessing here as i do not know for sure

I'm so time poor at the minute, but I do hope to be able to make some videos on that machine in the near future. I would say your issue will be a leak. On those, its usually on the solenoid block. The white elbow joint on the right side of it is a common failure point too as they split over time. good luck!

That is unlucky! It sounds like you could've saved a heap of money over the years with a bag of those tiny o-rings :)

Interesting, thanks! Whenever I’ve had this issue (admittedly not very often) the condensation has entered into the gauge from a larger leak elsewhere in the machine, rather than from the internal seal like you suggested, but something to bear in mind if you have condensation without other leaks occurring. I agree, if you can get one for $20 then replace 👍

The 007 are too small and the probes ones(010) are a little too big.

@@BrevTech what size would you recommend, I'm in the UK, will try to source locally

@@DarkShadowAy I added sizes in the description 👍

@@BrevTech Perfect, thank you!

Take a look at my steam boiler repair video. You likely have a faulty element or wet thermal switch that is tripping the rcd. That’s by far the most common cause after ruling out a large internal leak

@BrevTech thanks. I'll check it out. Another thing he told me was that just before it started tripping RCD water would come out of group when starting up. And not stop until power cycling.

try a small flat blade or torx and dig them in to get a good purchase. If that fails then you'll need to drill it out with a 3.5-4mm bit

that will be the steam solenoid not closing properly. If its the OLAB (metal base) version you can buy my solenoid repair kit to fix it (see description), otherwise, if it has the plastic base (CEME) you'll have to buy the complete solenoid online. its a fairly simple repair.

i just use a basic one from Bunnings tbh. It sounds like yours might either be rounded off or non standard. I would try with a small flat blade or torx and see if you can dig in enough to get a good hold on it

Great tip and thanks

I can verify the P stands for Pass. With the new ulka pump it now says P. Interestingly enough mine has two Fs and the second F, which I suspect stands for the steam pump, does not say P when running the steam wand even though there are no symptoms of a bad pump yet. So it must be doing some type of current draw or flow meter check to determine if the pump has any issues.

Interesting! thanks for your contribution

@@BrevTechof course! Thank you for having such an amazing resource up!

He did. He shows it at 3:05

Not everyone who watches this video bought the replacement kit. ✌️

@@andrewnyc123you said “he failed to show that”… 🥱🫡

I’m not sure I understand. Surely you are taking the spring and rubber out, so simply reverse the process

this

179c is basically being held there by the thermal switch. if you are not careful the fuse will go and you will have a big repair such as this one in the video. It will be the triac board. i have another video on that for the dual boiler but you can use the same principle to repair yours

@@BrevTech i can condmfirm the steam boiler temperature reading is incorrect: I had started the machine with the temperature sensor on the top disconnected and left ant ambient T. Inserted a thermocouple to provide the reading and make sure I was not overheating. Finally the steam boiler started to show sign of steam. When close to 90c I tried to remove the external thermocouple and insert the original. The t showed up as 179, but it was definitely Below. I tested the triarc as you other video and appears good. I purchased a new temperature sensor and keep you posted. Thanks for your help

It’s part of the boiler I’m afraid

Used this video & your BrevTech steam boiler kit to replace my dual boiler's thermostat and fuse, and now I have a functioning steam boiler and wand. Thank you for sharing your experience!

yes, it's on my todo list. work commitments are taking all my time right now tho, I hope to do more videos soon

does the boiler have water in? check in the self-check menu

Oh yeah! Definitely has water in it. Replaced both Ulka pumps about a year ago and a handful of seals on the steam side boiler just to give more detail

@@06E60S85 have you checked the fuse and thermal switch for continuity?

There are the same orings on the coffee boiler but as it runs at a lower temp they tend to last at least twice as long. You can transfer the same maintenance process from the steam boiler to the coffee boiler

the side one does tend to stick. worst case, you may have to cut the tube and drill the fitting out. you can get replacement tubes.

@@BrevTech After pouring small amounts of descaler on the top and leaving to soak it came out without too much force. Thanks for your reply.

Can you just crimp on a new spade connector?

@BrevTech I think if I strip the wire I could. I didn't know the name of the connector.

@@brenster21it’s a 6mm female spade connector

@@s3anuk cheers

there are a couple of tubes run down there. One is dirty water from the coffee solenoid and the other is from the vac valve. It will be the vac valve (centre of the steam boiler) that is leaking. (white one) Its a bs008 from memory, but you might be able to get by with a spare 007 if you have some left over.

@@BrevTech thanks! Actually, the water il finding under the drip tray is dirty so based on your explanation I’m thinking it relates to the solenoid line?

@@ngscrivener yes, that's normal then

bta201-800

yes, if it goes over 167c the fuse will blow and you'll be in a world of trouble. Check my other menu on repairing the triac board as it will be that (and also the orings)

Do you mean the internal (white) oring is loose? They usually last longer than 2yrs which is a little strange.

@@s3anuk Yes, inside the ceramic top (Next to the metal collar) of the ground probe (It looks more clear then white but). Removed the clip to move the ceramic top and it looked fine but too small? Will see when that replacement o-ring arrives.

Yea they might look ok but they would have shrunk a little

No that has a small thermoblock boiler. On those it’s more likely a leaky oring or split connector near the solenoid

@@BrevTech Thanks! The sputtering is more evident when using the wand for hot water, although not that bad. Other than that it works normally esp when steaming. Is this something that can wait or should be fixed asap?

@@anitu-oy9qp any water inside should be looked at asap. It might not be economical to pay someone to fix it - given the price, so I would take the lid off and run it to see if you can narrow down the problem. It might just be something quite simple to repair

There is or should be a non-return valve on the pump just under the OPV.

@@BrevTech I think its my OPV is faulty as I have found there is backflow going through the overpressure exit of the OPV

@@duduwaka5703you can try reseating the little spring valve inside and /or turning the adjustment to be tighter but often the rubber stopper becomes deformed and worn and lets water through

@@duduwaka5703 ah yes, that'll do it