The modular drive machines may not have the disconnect on the front door if they had the rear electrical cabinet option like my '69. On those machines all the electrical panel on the right side and the tube module on the left side are both moved to a large electrical cabinet that mounts behind the headstock. Great option from a maintenance standpoint since you don't have to bend over and everything is right in front of you, but not the best from an aesthetic or space point of view.
Very informative! I was interested when you said you would restore a moused up drive system back to the original system. I was wondering how you would find all of the parts like vacuum tubes etc. Are they readily available? I would love to have one of these lathes!
You have to realize that the machines are the best possible and the parts are going to be expensive, for example the three vacuum tubes on ebay now new for $1000. The last factory price for the set was $3200. The large vacuum tubes can last 60yrs if the machine is not constantly overloaded and maintained. The Monarch factory will sell complete tube boards and components they have pulled out of machines being converted to their $20000 inverter drive. Both the motor generator and tube drives are overbuilt and designed to be repaired in the field. Stay tuned, it takes time, I will try to simplify ownership.
Thanks for the informative info. Answered alot of questions I had always wondered about. I have a Hardinge HLVH-EM that is a wonderfully accurate machine, but I have always loved the 10ee. Was just to spoked about the electrics on them so I stayed away.
The ideal situation is to have both, I found the Hardinge is much better using 5c collets, it was an afterthought on the Monarch with the additional collet nose attachment. The electronics on the vacuum tube machines will stun most industrial electricians, until they are briefed by an operator about how the machine functions. Choosing to go with the Monarch was easier here because of all the local gov facilities using them and experienced machinist around for assistance. Always oil your cork, thanks for tuning in!
Could you share what you decided to do on converting your newer Monarch lathe from 460 3phase into what Looks llike your home shop with 240 single phase? Thank you
@@williamwilson9815 To wire the machine for low voltage the basic information is in the manual and on the electrical print for your ser# of machine, change wires as directed on the big transformers; shunt wire length. Not all prints clearly point out that the filament transformers come in high and low voltage. Dual voltage machines have 220v filament transformers that wired in series for high voltage and wired direct for low voltage input. If you have high voltage filament transformers you will need a small boost transformer just to power those. When low voltage transformers are used the brown tap is used to provide the 2.5 volts "AC" to the C16 thyratron tubes filaments. High voltage transformers require selecting the correct tap "colored wire" as per manual/print.
@@deedeeindustrialsuperprecision that is very helpful. Thank you. We will check that out to make sure it is set up properly. The reason I ask is when We checked it out before buying it, a machinist that was a friend of the family did a video to help out selling it and ran the machine and found that at 2000 rpm and the motor ran very smooth but when he turned the speed up or down, the motor would start surging. He said everything else on the machine worked great. Does that sound like anything particular that you have seen? We do not know it’s condition exactly because the owner pasted away and no one in the family knew any details.. we thought we would start by making sure the power was correct and work from there.
@@williamwilson9815 There are two adjustment pots on the top of the inside of the module "the black box" They adjust with a screw driver one side is top speed on the other side is speed compensation. The instructions for adjustment should be inside the black cover. Your likely problem is the compensation is turned up slightly high that causes surging. Both of those adjustments are normal maintenance as the tubes change from age and use. Take a look at my video on the module.
At work have 2 EE with motor generator and we have motor generators in another room so the Lathes are silent to run. I have never used vacuum tube type. I find Motor generator type are very easy to maintain and keep running in a run flawlessly. I live in Alaska and EE Lathes not easy to find in Alaska
The old motor generator machine I have is really loud but works great. The module tube drive has faster speed change with the speed knob having less than a turn combined with quick slow down and acceleration circuits. The other major change is a speed/load compensation circuit to hold speed under load.
@@deedeeindustrialsuperprecision is motor generator mounted on rubber vibration mounts. In your video it’s sounds really noisy. In person it might be ok.
@@akfarmboy49 Yes the pads are in place, I hear a loud growl on the video when the generator is rolling to a stop, not near as noticeable in person. I will track it down it could be a bearing in the exciter. I have noticed on mine and others videos the microphones pick up an amplify metal on metal, perhaps a useful tool in itself. I am sure new bearings are in my future.
The modular drive machines may not have the disconnect on the front door if they had the rear electrical cabinet option like my '69. On those machines all the electrical panel on the right side and the tube module on the left side are both moved to a large electrical cabinet that mounts behind the headstock. Great option from a maintenance standpoint since you don't have to bend over and everything is right in front of you, but not the best from an aesthetic or space point of view.
Very informative! I was interested when you said you would restore a moused up drive system back to the original system. I was wondering how you would find all of the parts like vacuum tubes etc. Are they readily available? I would love to have one of these lathes!
You have to realize that the machines are the best possible and the parts are going to be expensive, for example the three vacuum tubes on ebay now new for $1000. The last factory price for the set was $3200. The large vacuum tubes can last 60yrs if the machine is not constantly overloaded and maintained. The Monarch factory will sell complete tube boards and components they have pulled out of machines being converted to their $20000 inverter drive. Both the motor generator and tube drives are overbuilt and designed to be repaired in the field. Stay tuned, it takes time, I will try to simplify ownership.
@@deedeeindustrialsuperprecision Thanks for that info, I'm fascinated by this lathe. Hoping one becomes available in my area at some point.
Thanks for the informative info. Answered alot of questions I had always wondered about. I have a Hardinge HLVH-EM that is a wonderfully accurate machine, but I have always loved the 10ee. Was just to spoked about the electrics on them so I stayed away.
The ideal situation is to have both, I found the Hardinge is much better using 5c collets, it was an afterthought on the Monarch with the additional collet nose attachment. The electronics on the vacuum tube machines will stun most industrial electricians, until they are briefed by an operator about how the machine functions.
Choosing to go with the Monarch was easier here because of all the local gov facilities using them and experienced machinist around for assistance. Always oil your cork, thanks for tuning in!
That's funny, lost creek machine is not that far from me.
It is a long way from WA state, but a good company.
Great info dee Dee, very interesting.
Thanks for tuning in!
What would a used working 10ee go for? What about a 10ee not working & missing a couple covers?
I would expect later inch metric machines in very good condition from 20 to 50k. the earlier machines depend on drive system and condition
@@deedeeindustrialsuperprecision thank you.
Great video. I am still trying to find a 10ee so this is very useful info. Saw your yellow-magenta sign back there. Former nuke?
There is bound to be more of these machines on the market, many owners and hoarders are getting old.
good vid
Thanks!
Could you share what you decided to do on converting your newer Monarch lathe from 460 3phase into what
Looks llike your home shop with 240 single phase? Thank you
Are you talking about a module drive machine 1960 to 1983? Filament transformers and shunt wires?
@@deedeeindustrialsuperprecision that is correct. 1968 version 10ee
@@williamwilson9815 To wire the machine for low voltage the basic information is in the manual and on the electrical print for your ser# of machine, change wires as directed on the big transformers; shunt wire length. Not all prints clearly point out that the filament transformers come in high and low voltage. Dual voltage machines have 220v filament transformers that wired in series for high voltage and wired direct for low voltage input. If you have high voltage filament transformers you will need a small boost transformer just to power those. When low voltage transformers are used the brown tap is used to provide the 2.5 volts "AC" to the C16 thyratron tubes filaments. High voltage transformers require selecting the correct tap "colored wire" as per manual/print.
@@deedeeindustrialsuperprecision that is very helpful. Thank you. We will check that out to make sure it is set up properly. The reason I ask is when We checked it out before buying it, a machinist that was a friend of the family did a video to help out selling it and ran the machine and found that at 2000 rpm and the motor ran very smooth but when he turned the speed up or down, the motor would start surging. He said everything else on the machine worked great. Does that sound like anything particular that you have seen? We do not know it’s condition exactly because the owner pasted away and no one in the family knew any details.. we thought we would start by making sure the power was correct and work from there.
@@williamwilson9815 There are two adjustment pots on the top of the inside of the module "the black box" They adjust with a screw driver one side is top speed on the other side is speed compensation. The instructions for adjustment should be inside the black cover. Your likely problem is the compensation is turned up slightly high that causes surging. Both of those adjustments are normal maintenance as the tubes change from age and use. Take a look at my video on the module.
At work have 2 EE with motor generator and we have motor generators in another room so the Lathes are silent to run.
I have never used vacuum tube type.
I find Motor generator type are very easy to maintain and keep running in a run flawlessly. I live in Alaska and EE Lathes not easy to find in Alaska
The old motor generator machine I have is really loud but works great. The module tube drive has faster speed change with the speed knob having less than a turn combined with quick slow down and acceleration circuits. The other major change is a speed/load compensation circuit to hold speed under load.
@@deedeeindustrialsuperprecision are bearings bad in your motor generator?
@@akfarmboy49 Could be, it has sounded like for years.
@@deedeeindustrialsuperprecision is motor generator mounted on rubber vibration mounts.
In your video it’s sounds really noisy.
In person it might be ok.
@@akfarmboy49 Yes the pads are in place, I hear a loud growl on the video when the generator is rolling to a stop, not near as noticeable in person. I will track it down it could be a bearing in the exciter. I have noticed on mine and others videos the microphones pick up an amplify metal on metal, perhaps a useful tool in itself. I am sure new bearings are in my future.