Lifepo4 Battery Is Coming Together Easy Peasy; Good Preparation Makes It Look Easy!
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
- This video demonstrates building the lifepo4 battery system with the BMS, display, T class fuse and Anderson disconnect into a cabinet grade battery enclosure. There is also a sneak peak of the booster pack for the previously shown solar generator.
Here is a link to the earlier video that shows the preparation work for getting the box ready for the parts that were installed in this video if you want to see how that was done.
• Lifepo4 Battery Box Co...
"Mr Rogers" of do-it-yourselfers... I say this with the highest respect. I've viewed quite a few of your videos and from the first one until this latest one, I have come back to that all familiar voice of a childhood TV show "Mr Rogers". You're teaching Style makes ya wanna shut up and learn something, I find myself hitting the share button. I appreciate viewed character building with your premise of a "I messed up and reveal this to you so you know what to do when you mess up" makes it able for us as viewers to connect with what you do on the human level. I appreciate your "revealed integrity" it's apparent by what you say and the quality of work that you produce.
Thank you!
Scott L.
Thanks for your delightful response on a cold Christmas morning.
Just went back and re-watched - such an excellent share and now that I am taking the leap, all the more valuable.
Once again this is all excellent info for the next person that builds a backup system like this. Thanks for sharing this info .
Your soft spoken intonation….. you sir, are the Bob Ross of battery builders. Grin. A little BMS here, we will paint a little carbon paste there.
I agree with you on the PEX! Real plumbers that can run copper will be few and far between!
Your skills are valuable to radio people also, we can learn a few things from you, thanks John KC2-AGT NY
Since your BMS has a heat sync, I would think that you would need to ventilate the cabinet. What kind of temps are you getting especially in hot Texas summers? Great video, so genuine and informative. Very believable!
I don’t experience any substantial heat buildup and my batteries are always in a climate controlled environment.
Really enjoyed this; new sub. Kept thinking an old glass ashtray would be a great place to put that q-tip.
Thanks Ray very clear and concise, thanks for your efforts.
Ray nice build . For the Seplos bms , did you go to Alibaba and how was the purchasing experience?
Thanks a lot for sharing. Wish you the best.
Hi , your work is outstanding. Mega nice.
i am so happy i found your channel.
Me too!
You should have been an astronaut or run president. 😊
Ocd is strong with this one and it shows in the quality of your work sir. keep up the good work
One man’s OCD is another man’s passion for excellence. 😉
Your skills are valuable to marine people. Also, we can learn a few things from you. Thanks.
Awesome sauce buddy!!
Beautiful job!!
I just ordered 16- 3.2 volt 280AH cells from Ev components. I'm a bit nervous but took the plunge. I want to build 4- 12 volt 280AH batteries for an ambulance that I converted to a camper. I will need to run a desk-top computer. Here in Canada, Nov-Jan months, are shortened days light wise. Low angle of sun. Through the summer I'll have more than I need (3x 340Watt panels. Option to set up a 4th on the ground). Trying to not run a generator.
Thanks for all your great videos and knowledge. Your videos, Will Prowse and Off-grid garage have made it possible to make this a new hobby and hopefully low cost....I'm not sure it's going to accomplish this or not. Lol. Many thanks Ray. Your work is just fantastic. Love the wooden boxes. Blessing!
Thanks again 🙏
Ray, would you mind posting a wiring schematic of your various projects? That would actually be quite helpful for others. The more components the trickier it gets to plan all this out. Thanks for your knowledge, wisdom and sharing your experience and designs. You truly do beautiful work with cabinetry and wiring.
My wiring schematics look like chicken scratch. It is important to do them when planning, I agree. Let me think about whether I want to draw an as built.
It's funny. In my day job I build super complex and detailed high end residential buildings. They end up in the magazines, for what that is worth. (very very little) Much of what I do in those buildings is one off details that aren't done before or since. The architect draws 130 page sets of plans which often are just a jumping off place for where we end up. The real rubber meets the road stuff is often done on scraps of paper and is only understandable by the people involved in it or maybe only by me. You wouldn't know it later but the ideas we build from are in our heads and the paper just helps to keep it from drifting away.
I could post a picture of my coffee stained sketches I made for wiring diagrams but it wouldn't help much. I see others that do really nice drawings on cad that make sense. Let me think about it. I do want to make it easy for people to move their projects forward. I'm hoping the best way I can do that is to share the ideas and the priorities that lead to successful projects and less of a paint by numbers approach. It would probably be best if I was able to do both.
great job!
You definitely deserve like and subscribe and you make the coolest stuff ever
Thanks so much. I appreciate it and hope the videos help.
You’re like the Mr Rogers of LiFePo4
Very good - some more ideas (again) thanks Ray.
If you are going to the trouble of filling in any gaps around the data connectors you might as well put door seals around and between the top doors to stop them critters getting in through those gaps.
I will keep them out of the building instead.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff I picked up on that detail because I am building a camper trailer and have to seal against dust and water to varying degrees. In some situations I'm using stick on door seal and thought that would be handy for your build too. It compresses almost to nothing so you can use it in existing hinged panels without putting too much stress on hinges, though it will need some kind of latching on the swinging panels since they will want to stay slightly open.
Amazing skill. Great inspiration for me as I prepare to build a similar setup - 5kW Deye with 150A Seplos and 14 kWh LiFePO4.
If I may suggest tho, in place of the carbon/oil/amorphous silica thing, I would choose a metal-based antioxidant, like Ox-Gard OX-100B, or similar.
May I ask why you think that is better? I refer you to this thread on the diysolarforum. diysolarforum.com/threads/use-solder-paste-on-terminals-busbar-to-improve-conductivity.11175/page-6
Awesome build :) very happy to see someone taking the time to build something well!! What BMS are you using and what conductive paste are you using ?
The BMS is a Seplos 16s 200Amp. The conductive paste is MG847 from M.G. Chemicals. It contains synthetic oil, carbon black and amorphous fumed silica.
Nice 😍
Hi Ray. I’ve watched so many videos of yours over the last two weeks and asked a question recently on another video which pertained to this video. Sorry about that, should watch them all before asking any questions.
You’ve answered my question on the communication ports in this video.
Is there another video you made regarding the lcd display on the inside of the box as to where you bought it and what’s it’s called?
Thanks again for your excellent quality craftsmanship. 👍🏻
Oh great, I’m glad you found it. The LCD screen that you’re referring to comes with the Seplos BMS.
Looking good so far. While I get there are no batteries present, seeing so many screw drivers (ect.) without insulation on a battery build project is stressing me out. Probably because I know I would find some improbable way of launching one across the room and Murphy's law would mandate it would land bridging the batteries terminals.
That's good observation. Safe protocols ensure we can make human mistakes with less risk and we all screw up don't we? My battery tools are shrink wrapped but.....I don't want to fall into the normalization of deviance trap.
People have forgotten the anti microbial properties of copper also. Pex is cheaper, easier, faster and will garrantee someone will have to come back and fix it later, job security.
Yep
Did you get a wiring guide/sizing from Seplos?
Hi Ray, as I was coming to wire up the BMS it occurred to me that you have position the fuse between the batteries and the BMS rather than after the BMS, just before the Anderson plug as per Seplos Batteries.
Was that a choice dictated by the three cables arrangement or purely arbitrary? I expect that your way would prevent any potential BMS fault from damaging the battery array, is that one of the reasons for your choice perhaps?
🙏Thanks again, you have helped us all so very much especially with regards to the cells purchase, I could not have done it so easily otherwise.
I have the fuse located as close to the battery as possible to protect from a short or fault in the battery. I have a 175A DC breaker just after the Anderson connector to protect the wiring. The BMS has protection from both sides. If the fuse is on the load side of the BMS, what happens to the BMS in case of a short? 😉
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff I agree and it confirms my theory. 🙏 Thank you once again, I'll let you know when I'm ready for top balance, I'm also working on my new building Studio/Lab that is why is taking me so long for this battery, I'm using a 5kWh in the meantime. 😍
nice work ray, that bms looks a awful lot like a seplos ;)
Seplos 200A, a bakers dozen of them.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff have the same, just not a dozen
If you wear your new jeans to work, you'll get some penetrox on 'em. Or your coworker might play the old penetrox on the door handle of your work truck prank.
Sorry Googles voice to text garbled part of i hope it makes sence
what did you use a a terminal end going into the T class fuse?
1/0 x 3/8 lug torqued to 20 ft lbs
what size anderson connectors (blue) are you using for your disconnect?
175A
Ray, I have a question about keeping these batteries at a suitable temperature as I live in western S.D.. We get some really cold temps up here in the winter, like -20 or worse. I live in a motorhome and there's a compartment in the rear where an Onan Genset is at the moment. I plan on removing that and using that space for the majority of the electronics and batteries. It's vented now and I plan on closing it off for the most part aside from letting any heat from the electronics have a place to get out. I was thinking about using some sort of heating device inside the boxes like what a person would use around water pipes to prevent freezing. These are pretty low wattage pieces and since wood is such a near perfect insulation, these heaters have a built in thermostat. What's you opinion? I was thinking also that any heat from the BMS would supplement this. Aside from all this, I would have to run a duct from one of the inside furnaces to the box. My real concern would be if the cells got too cold, I would need to have some way of keeping them from being charged until a suitable temp was sensed inside the box.
They make heating pads that can be incorporated into the build but I would super insulate the compartment and supply it with a bit of climate control. They like the same temps that we do for best performance.
As I watch your video here, it's like Grug in the cartoon movie the Croods, I have ideas. They just keep coming to me. Only they don't give me headaches. I do think a backup system is required here as in not depending on whether the Propane tanks are full or there is power? Also I'm looking at the areas of the hinges and the gap in the top covers. Now I do think the display panel would be better off inside the living area where it could be seen/read. Also at those points you use the bumper pads, I was thinking instead of a full felt or rubber seal around the case and closing up the region around the Andersons. I'm thinking of using 1 inch panels along with some insulation like closed cell foam. This is an older RV so there is no compartment area as would be with a later model rear engine unit so space is a real issue. This is going to require a fair amount of thought. As for a pad, I suppose that would need to be put under the cells, maybe with a false bottom and spacing for the cells to rest on instead of directly on the heating pad, something that would support the cells but not insulate them from the pad. Since the charge controller is onlly going to work in the day with sunlight, night time would be the only temps would be an issue and a safety switch could be incorperated to prevent any charge if the temp is too low. I need to read up more on the battery temp sensor part, isn't that supposed to keep the BMS turned off if it's too cold?
@@brettschacher8644 yes the BMS should prevent sub freezing charging.
have you tested to see if that graphite past actually makes a difference
Of course and made videos about it.
always remember to hold all the way out on the handle of the torque wrench so that it levers properly and you get the correct amount of torque instead of over tightening it when you choke up on the Handle of the wrench.
Thanks for watching the video and commenting.
There are different styles of torque wrenches and they have different requirements. The blue CDI wrench has strain gauges in the arm between the head and the gauge. You can hold anywhere on the black handle. The small ratcheting torque wrench has a strain release in the head and can be held anywhere on the handle. My big old craftsman torque wrench relies on the bending moment of the handle with an indicator rod. It has a handle that pivots on a specific spot on the long beam. With that one you have to hold the handle so it is applying the force in a specific spot in the exact center of the black plastic handle. My big Tekton torque wrench is of the click type but the measurement is done closer to the handle so you need to hold the handle but anywhere on the handle is still accurate.
On the mechanical click type wrenches it is important to not click more than once or continue to pull past the click. It is also important to operate it a low torque setting a few times if it hasn't been used recently to redcoat the internal parts with the lubricant. I learned this after this video when I wanted to understand why it felt different after the first few screws.
I have 4 torque wrenches and they all work slightly different. It is important to understand how our specific tools work for the best results. I'm still learning every day.
On my road grader I have to apply 900 ft lbs on the axle nuts. For that I put my 180 lbs of body weight on the outer end of a 5 foot cheater bar. LOL
If your torque wrench is the old style with a second indicator rod that counts on the bend of the handle for measuring torque then that is true. Those type have a floppy handle that puts the contact point in an exact spot. My large torque wrench is like that. My ratchet style torque wrench has strain measurement inside the head. You can hold them at any point on the handle without affecting the reading if you apply pressure that is perpendicular to the rotational force being applied.
Coming back to this video I first want to thank you for all your tips including where to purchase the cells. I have just received my first 16 units from Jenny Wu and two Seplos Bms units from Fogstar in the UK (at a very reasonable price). I have a question, if I may, for you Ray, I see that you use three cables from the BMS to the main plug/fuse rather than one larger at the terminal perhaps joined by a bus bar between the three bolting points, I suspect this is to allow for more flexibility or maybe for practical reasons so, how do you join the three cables into one lug safely and securely, please?
That is shown in an earlier video. I recommend finding it. It will be just a bit earlier than this one.
Let me know if you can’t find it. It shows all the connections to the BMS
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff Will search for it, thank you kindly 🙏
@@9111logic a very recent video also shows how to put this together and what length of wire to use. I would recommend you watch that video especially.
Hi
Why do you use red shrink tube on black wires?
Sometimes I have extra black wire and need to mark it as positive.
reasoning for a 200amp class T fuse? Would an ANL fuse work as well?
At this amperage I would not use an ANL fuse. I have used them at half this amperage but at 200 amps I would only use class T to ensure that the arc gets snuffed out in case of a short. We arc weld with DC current at a much lower amperage.
You need to look at the battery systems current potential and check that against the IC (interrupt current rating) of the fuse.
Do you have any advice in negotiating with a seller in China after you’ve documented his transgressions. Wheeler fat wrench is a wonderful vertical in/lb tool. I use it for gunsmithing and I think it would work well here too
Advice I don't have but I have gained some experience which I will share in a video a bit later after some of these issues finish playing out. There will be numbers and calculations involved in deciding if it is a better deal to get ripped off by the cheap sellers or the more reliable sellers that charge much more from the start. Stay tuned.
What is the paste you putting on the wire lug?
MG 847
Hello Ray, I am looking for help, I am unable to connect to my BMS Seplos via BatteryMonitor, the monitor is able to connect and do a Firmware Update, function works Ok.
But when I try to load (import protocol from xml file) I always get an error (no correct format .. . loading protocol failed please correct and reload.) This happens no matter which file I choose. I already tried to run the program on Windows 7, 10 and 11 unfortunately always the same error ... loading protocol filed...
Is there anything you can do to help me? How to work around it.
Sorry for any mistakes, I'm writing through a translator, I speak English poorly....
I can’t help with this. Please contact Seplos directly and let us know what you find out.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff ok I will do that .... so you have never had such problems? Please tell me what windows version do you connect to your BMS?
did you configure the bms or kept it as factory ? if yes what did you set the Total_voltage overvoltage protection ?
For now I'm using the factory settings. When I have all 16 batteries built and installed, I will tap into the settings and may adjust as necessary. On my overkill bms on the solar generator batteries, I have the cell over voltage set to 3.4 and the under voltage set to 3.0.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff not sure if you mentioned the name of the BMS, but who makes it, or where can i find this model? looking for one like you have with the communication port to work with my inverter
@@JbVest Minetals on AliExpress has them....Seplos 48V 200A BMS with optional LCD display.
The thing is beautiful by I guess I'm still curious why you said in one of the previous videos you went from the shelf idea to the Box idea and I know they're rolling around and portable in everything I guess I'm trying to understand why it's so important to have them enclosed my intentions when I was watching someone else's video before I found your videos which are very much more detailed and much more user friendly what's to just build shelf place the batteries on it secure them so they couldn't be knocked off And just leave everything open and easy access cause I don't like having to tear things all apart when I have to go fix it I don't really have a lot of time when I'm in need of fixing stuff and I can't really afford that beautiful wood that you're using
If you have an event and a cell has an internal short, will you be able to remove the battery for disassembly or will the heat affect the other batteries. I want mine to be portable for safety and service.
Hello Ray, could you please share the box dimension for the 16pc 280AH case. I am trying to do something similar for my personal use. This would be my first woodwork project. Please help.
The overall dimensions are 12 inches top to bottom, 18 inches left to right, and 31 3/4 inches front to back. These dimensions maximize the efficiency of cutting the material out of 4’ x 8’ by three-quarter inch sheets of Baltic birch plywood and allow enough space inside for all the necessary components.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff Thanks for a quick reply
@@oluwatoyinolagunju are you from Nigeria? I like your name.
That BMS has both positive and negative cables??
The BMS has positive terminals for managing the battery. The negative terminals are only for the onboard shunt. It uses that to calculate state of charge.
What is the carbon paste you are using?
MG847
How many boxes can you build from 1 sheet of 4x8’
Seven sheets did 12 as I recall
Thanks Ray.
what inverters will you be using ray ?
sol-ark/deye/sunsynks?
or maybe something elsev?
sol-ark/deye/sunsynk.........more will be revealed.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff hoping to a sunsynk, just because i like keith ;)
I REALLY like Keith. I think he does the right things for the right reasons. They don't have a split phase, which I need here in the US.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff well, then i hope you got one of the few deye's, just because i dont like sol-arks behavior so much ;)
Check out the 1:00 mark of this video. ua-cam.com/video/aVe-XUl1K4U/v-deo.html
Did you get a wiring guide from Seplos?
There is a user manual available online.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff what size cable did you use for the bms ,4awg?
@roger littlejohn yes , it is three 4 awg wires. There is a separate video if you haven't seen it on preparing the harnesses used in this video. They are all on the playlist for wiring up the batteries. Enjoy!
hey ray
hey Ray what AWG did you use?
for which part?
I used #2 ga (single negatives and part of the pos, and #6 ga on the pos three cables. All high temp, verybflexible silicone cables from Windy Nation.
Is that one of the seplos BMS ?
Yes it is. Stay tuned. There is a problem currently with these and I am waiting to find out how they will resolve it.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff Where did you buy the Seplos BMS and can you tell what the problem is? I'm looking to buy thid BMS as it communicates with Victron gear.
I bought the BMS directly from Seplos on their alibaba store. The problem is that they have experienced some failures on BMSs manufactured before August due to a bad batch of diodes. I have 13 of these BMSs. Their solution is to send me a bunch of diodes for me to replace myself and one extra BMS because I have purchased more than ten. They only send diodes to people who have purchased less than ten. Not all are failing and the one I have in service is working so far. It has been operating for about 60 hours so far and not under a heavy load. I ordered one extra to have on the shelf for these two projects I'm currently working on and now I will have two in reserve in case of problems. I have not yet received a letter from them assuring me I will not void my warranty by installing the diodes they are sending me but when their solution is for the customer to replace their own parts, I question what they consider to be a warranty in the first place. I think they have the best BMS but they got some bad parts. I don't think they have the best customer service. On this side of the pond, customer loyalty is built on the response to problems. They should learn from Toyota.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff Thanks for the quick reply! I'm living in Belgium and they recently changed taxes and custom rules for ordering outside the EU wich makes ordering on Ali complicated i find. Didn't find a reseller of Seplos in Europe, this would make things easier.
I like your build very much! Clean, organised and structured. I love the idea of the Anderson connector, but i'm missing a switch to turn the battery off. I watched all of Andy's video's too and i'm waiting for him to build his second battery.
I'm planning of building one also and was planning to use the Seplos as well because they can communicate with Victron gear and the possibility to expand with second/third battery. I'll be watching you next videos for sure...
@@bartdetre8851 I have a video about the battery combiner box I am using. The cable from the battery leads to a large 175A DC breaker. At the battery is a 200A class T fuse to protect the cable. Once the breaker is thrown there will be no amperage on the cable and it can be safely disconnected.
“Perfection “? Carbon… did you consider DEOXIT L260c?
I am haven't really done a lot in the last year was in the eighties in community college and when we were working with the hydraulic current of car batteries 12 point specifically we would clean the terminals attach them and then if we did anything to them we would seal them externally we would do things like Spray on high Tech sealer to keep oxygen out of the connection and it was an old farmer stripped from eons ago to put grease on the terminal inside and out to prevwater or air getting in there but Greece is flammable so it has become a bad idea Regardless of the voltage there is always a spark hazard when connecting your disconnecting or even an already connected battery with loose connection there can be an arc the higher the current bigger the arc it can actually become a Flash I seen a guy well they go wedding ring to a steel Fender that was painted with a nice shiny Chrome snap on wrench So I am kind of confused her on The fence about the Liquid you're using in between the connectionI guess I was always taught a clean smooth metal to metal connection that has to remain tight To prevent arking or heating I'm sorry I'm just rambling on you provoke so many thoughts because you go into such detailWhich in my mind is a good thingI must say do you do exceptionally good work!
1;14 in first mistake Ray. dropped screwdriver.
Cool ray ... you need a hair cut ... 😃
You look famiiar to me.
If you have nothing nice to say, and if it doesn't bother him it should not bother you