Parallel Cells in big LIFePO4 Battery Modules
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2024
- I'm paralleling the cells together in my big battery modules. This should allow me to average more capacity out of the total pack.
If I don't parallel the cells, then I have to limit my capacity of the battery based on the weakest cell. By paralleling my cells, the strong cells should help pick up the slack from the weakest cells. This should allow me to average a few more amp hours (capacity).
I bought these LiFePO4 battery modules from Battery Hookup. Below is an affiliate link. You can use my discount code "davidpoz" for 10% off any order from Battery Hookup. bit.ly/36Im08Z
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You have done the right thing here. Now your cells in this giant battery are configured properly. Thanks for sharing, very useful info.
I also wired the Batrium BMS to the connector on the back but batrium watchmon was reporting HUGE voltage swings when the cellmons were in bypass(burning extra cell energy to heat). I suspected and later confirmed that the balancing wires connected to the connector(20-22 awg) was insufficient to handle the current and provide a reliable voltage reading for the adjacent cellmon. Because of this, I wired the cellmons directly to the cell posts(that you are using for parallel in this video). After wiring directly, I have no voltage swings when cellmons are in bypass. Thanks again for the awesome video!
Your pretty smart to have caught on to this technology so fast. You have learned a lot. Thanks for sharing with us what you learn along the way. Good idea on what your doing regarding paralleling the cells together. I assume you may end up moving some cells around to keep it balanced.
I see you jumped on the latest chargery bms. I had 2 16s and bought 2 chargery bms-8t that have separate units like yours and quickly found out the old 16s chargery bms weren’t worth the money spent. The new version is dialed in much better and has a few more program setting than before. It does have 1.5 amp balancing which balances fine overnite nite when the cell are really wonky that brings the packs from 27.9v down to 26.8v. Worst cell has been a difference of 1443mv 😳. Waiting anxiously for the results! Awesome!
Hope that works for ya. Maybe think about plexy glass or something see through for your covers. Good luck brother
lots of times i see or hear a thing and it makes me go "ooh, no, that isn't a good idea" but i don't want to be that guy, you've got the stuff and are doing it, and i'm heavily down the road with different technology.... all i'll say is that it could go awesomely with the right monitoring and maybe the odd twiddle of cell matching to get things peachy... am new to this channel so i'll assume you know what you're doing at least as much as i do and possibly way more. I shall watch more, with great interest :)
The Tower of Power! Cool!
6:30 I think you need to invest in some drawer slides 😜
I know the weight is an issue. But I was thinking you could put some double rail closet shelf holders on each upright, then a shelf that's heavy enough to hold the weight. Put 2 linear bearing rails on the bottom of the battery and that would allow you to pull the unit out safely, and have a place for it to sit on. Then just move the shelf to each battery position to work on the next one.
LOVE it man. That is BAD ass looking. Thanks for taking so much time to make videos. I know there a LOT of work. God Bless..
Thanks Bobby. I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Good job brother. I bought four of these modules and I am still testing myself. But they are not giving me the proper output. Something is not quite right with them. Not when you are expecting 85% capacity. They are otherwise, great batteries and great deal. Just a bit worried. I know they have to be "woke" up, as well. And many people, myself included, were turned onto these batteries by your videos. BTW: you're doing great. And I appreciate all of the work you have done. You are not responsible for these batteries. And the fact you are working to get us information on them is much appreciated. And your honest approach also makes it easier for us all to be well informed and make the case, if we need to, about weak cells, when it happens. Because no one buys a battery that is already dead, no matter how big it is. God bless and take care.
Thanks for the kind words. I'm in the same boat as everyone else. I bought these batteries with my own money. I want to get as much life out of them as I can.
A thumbs up from here, the only thing I would possibly add would be galvanic jointing compound (duralac) between the terminal and ring connector/rivot. Over time, the differing metals will develop corrosion between them causing resistance to go up.
Excellent video! I have a different plan for my 4 modules.I think its kind of thinking outside the box, but maybe not after I make the video.
Great. It's always good when we try different things.
hey there
Good job!
I was seriously thinking about buying two of these modules until the price of shipping came up. DAMN ! I do have a Sister in Law living in PA. Wish she was coming for a visit soon .. LOL
Personally, if I was buying a new battery today, I would buy the BMW full car packs for sale: batteryhookup.com/products/complete-bmw-32kwh-ev-active-e-battery-96s
It's an even better deal ($/kwh). you can use my code for 10% off: DAVIDPOZ
DavidPoz absolutely. The bmw batteries are very nice.
You, good sir, must have the world's most understanding wife ! All the time and expense you need to put into doing this must be huge. To say something that may be useful. Instead of a plywood cover, how about a clear plastic sheet with 1/4" holes in it to let air in and to keep small fingers out, to cool the units. " Also clear plastic looks cooler too."
👍 Yes Akb Li-ion and LiFePo4
I can't recall what these look like inside but I would have wanted to pull the weak cells out and then into a single battery/group so all the others are good and you can find a new use for the block concentrating the weak cells.
I am wondering what the capacity was before the modifications? What did the weak cells hold the batteries too?
Hurrah ... back to work!!
As much as your going to work on these you should put them in a rack cabinet that has roller slides. Also if those buss bars are aluminum I would put a steel washer behind before pulling the rivets for a tighter connection.
What a tease!! I need numbers man! Also I know wood is strong but I was still nervous watching.
I've been getting about 7kwh out of a 48v series pair. Bringing another set online after bottom balancing, today hopefully.
@@1980jwtx I have 4 BYD's. The worst was 2.7KWHr the best was 3.4 KWHr. Feeling ripped off, but the worst cell has come up in capacity to 3.1 KWHr with repeated charge discharge cycles. No expectation of seeing 4 KWHr though.
@@craignels if you compare the price to new lifepo4 cells or pretty much any chemistry these seem like a great deal. I hope they are i just purchased 4 for myself and 2 for my dad but only expecting about 3kwh of storage from each.
I bought three of the 3kWh BYD 24v Lifepo4 batteries from our friends at Battery Hookup, these batteries are originally 5.2kWh. They have a connector on the front that has the 8 balance leads and 8 thermistor leads, if I can’t find the correct mail can I use two connectors to replace them? Looking for a good BMS and how to make the positive and negative larger diameter. Thanks and I enjoy your videos.
I was about to buy 4 pieces of these battery packs, to form a 16S2P battery pack.
These "parallel wires" should be thick enough to balance corresponding cells from different packs.
I wonder if it is worth buying these cheapo packs for the additional work and wire costs.
You might want to add 4 industrial caster wheels to the bottom of the rack to ease in servicing.
This is amazing. I keep thinking that that tower should have been put on industrial wheels, and attached to the ceiling and floor at the center on top and bottom. So it could pivot. Hindsight is 20/20.
That would be pretty cool to pivot out from the wall.
@@DavidPozEnergy Yes. My thoughts exactly.
You need some draw slides for those batteries- you can get heavy duty ones that can cope with the load. You could then pull them in and out easily 👍
I wonder if they make slides heavy duty enough for those batteries
Hdd Server pod rails seem very good as the amount of weight they handle is a lot
Can you also offer more of an explanation behind what you are doing here. How exactly does this cause you to END up with more Amp hours from these batteries? And based on your current usage, you made the assessment that you need to do this extra parelell connection between individual cells. I understand that, but now that you made this connection, and you test them again, I hope you report to us the before and after. It would be nice if you kept some data sheet on this. Its all so helpful. And it gives us an idea of what we too can achieve if we copy what you did. Because that is what makes this topic very useful. I have never done a thing with batteries before for solar or living on them and now I am in it full time and this is a crazy notion for my level of knowledge. So, anymore help or understanding is greatly appreciated. I am in a bus conversion. IM actually running for President. Whole different conversation, though. Thank you.
Good Idea on the before and after. I think I have enough info for that.
@@DavidPozEnergy Oh, that is awesome David! Looking forward to that information!!
Don't cover up the tower with plywood, as this will stop airflow around the modules. Use some kind of wire mesh instead.
Do you find the batteries are heavier when they are fully charged?
David, looks great. Question, where are you getting all your wire. Thanks ahead.
The 10 gauge wire I used in this video was from Lowes, it was on the discount rack because they were odd lengths.
DavidPoz thanks very much.
I personally like your balance breakout board, just tidy it up a little more. it doesnt make too much sense now that there is the thick wires paralleling them all though
Make sure you add vents in the front cover when you make it. Don't want to decrease the life of the batteries by subjecting them to high temperatures for long periods of time
Knowing him there will be vents and temp controlled fans
Well it is fun to watch you go through it all. But man that is a big pain to get a working safe battery pack. While it is interesting to watch you go from one pack to another at some point do you plan to just use one? Selfishly I am glad you keep changing since it makes for fun videos as you go from pack to pack! How will you know if a fuse on the back side blows? (not that is should being 30A...)
I plan to add a little cell checker to the front of each module. If a fuse blows, then one cell would be different from all the rest. I could see that. But I haven't seen more than an amp so far. But I'll be checking near the bottom of the SOC curve, I'll probably see more amps move then.
@@DavidPozEnergy yep the bottom and the top pulls the biggest amps. Also keep an eye on the farthest battery away from the load. You may find a need to design the load location.
I never knew electricity could be so heavy.
Jak jsou staré baterie a z čeho to bylo?..jake je max napetí nabíjecí,zachovaní plnych cyklu?dekuji j
Speaking of headways, mine come in at about 4.4ah! Basically half capacity.......
I've got 8ah headway cells coming in that I'll be paralleling with my weak cells, I'm hoping that plus the QNBBM balancers plus paralleling the individual cells (w/ 16AWG) will allow me to access the full capacity of the modules.
That's cool. It's going to be a nice build.
Those QNBBM balancers are real good. I use them on Ebike packs.
Hi David, so I bought these batteries, but I can’t get any info on the exact battery model. So I can’t program my inverter / charger. Do you know the exact model? B box pro 2.5-10, or B box pro 12.8, B box pro 13.8, B box res 2.5-10, or B box compact, or B box L3.5- 14?Can you help? Thanks
The manufacture has ignored all my e-mails. I've tried to get spec sheets, but can't. Sorry.
Nice video Friend, I have a question: can i connect 2 different batteries in parallel? I have to build 16s pack and i would like to use 8s2p 280AH and 8s2p 260AH all connected under one BMS 16s with active equaliser. The internal resistance i quite similar and also discharge curve, the only differenties is capacity. What do you think? Thanks for your answer ☺️
I suggest building 2 separate batteries. Battery #1: 16s1p 280Ah with a BMS. Battery #2 16s1p 260Ah with a BMS. Only after the BMS then parallel the batteries onto a central busbar. Skip the active balancer altogether.
heya hope you wired everything correctly
That is quite the tower of batteries!! What are they, like 150lbs?!? Those are big mamas. Time for a lift system and save your back! Hire a Robot to do the work....aka great excuse to get a small forklift for your shop! whoooop 😍😍
David...who makes these batteries? Can you give me a model number too? Thanks, Steve
David, Are you going to use the cooling fans at all?
I wired the fans so I can use them. I'll be checking temperatures under load to see if I need to power the fans. But I don't suspect that I'll need them.
Hi David, only one 48V BMS connected to the entire 48V power banks and do parallel all the leads in each cell? or each 48V module has each own BMS? Also, how many 48V (module) total in the entire battery bank?
Yes, I have one bms since I paralleled everything. However, next time I would use 4 small BMSs and skip paralleling cells.
Thanks. I am currently building 48V battery banks from different type of BYD 24V and will do parallel connection too. I am planning to use active balancer and fuse each 48V battery and see if i can stabilize the entire system. I think this is the most challenging part.
I came back to look at how you did this but mine doesn’t have extra holes on the tabs in my batteries.
You sure you trust those rivets? I still plan on using the weakest parallel cell group in the pack as the limiting factor. If I need more I'll just add more cells in parallel to increase the capacity that I may need.
not very smart to rivet. knowing davidpoz in two weeks time is going to change the wiring again.
Newbie here, what’s wrong with rivets?
I think you need some kind of hoist on tracks or posts .
160 lbs is a lot to maneuver from the top of a ladder.
Be safe and avoid injuries.
You want to enjoy life !
Search for lift dolly, super useful for any heavy objects.
In the end the balance function will have a large effect on the capacity. 30 amp between cells is quite a draw most I ever measured was 7 amps and that was when just connected.
Yeah, I don't suspect I'll ever see 30 amps, but I just wanted to make sure my 10 gauge wire was not causing too much resistance.
@@DavidPozEnergy 10 AWG should be fine, but I would try to make them as short as possible.
You could use large bullet connectors instead of crimping to make it much easier to unplug and swap if necessary. Put females on each balance lead covered with heatshrink and make 16 solid distribution blocks of 4 males back to back with 1 female or cable to go to the balancer...
Unfortunately, I don't think it would be a cheap solution requiring 64 + 16 male and female bullets, but sure easier to play with.
I am paralleling two sets of 4 BYD modules for a 48 volt 880 amp battery. I am curious as to why copper rivets to attach paralleling wire to aluminum busbars. I substituted aluminum rivets of the same size as your copper rivets but the remaining rivet on the back side protrudes into the spongy material surrounding the positive terminal of each cell. I could not detect it this were so using the copper rivets from your youtube. I purchased the copper rivets from you youtube list and also some more aluminum rivets 1/2 the length of the copper rivets in your description. I have only paralleled 8 cells and I am waiting on the remaining 56 of the 64 cells in my 48 volt 880 amp battery module for your response.
Thanks, Roger
The ones I had bought were about 1/4" long and after riveting on the bus bars, they did not hit the spongy material around the post, but it was close. Some guys use little machine screws instead of rivets, I think #6 but not sure.
you will continue to have problems with your setup as it is series then parallel then series again when lifepo4 batteries don't like this at all. it should be parallel to the required AH total you want and then series to build to your required voltage. otherwise you will always have cells going out of balance and problems with you system. the best thing you could do is open all of those batteries and rework then in parallel series configuration. Electrodacus has a very good explanation of this along with a very good system controller.
@Kusnezoff could you provide a link to Electrodacus article on series-parallel-series connected cells? I can’t find reference material on this topic.
Hey @DavidPoz,
I have the same batteries in one of the systems I have here on my property. I found if I charge above 27.1Vdc that the cells begin to fall out of balance. Just checking to see if you had seen the same. I am looking at getting some more because they are actually for my dad's setup, and I only have 3 of these on his system for now. Just wanted to see if the characteristics I am seeing is what is being seen across the board.
Yes, it's very difficult to keep these cells in balance. I won't be buying the same type again for my setup. Recently I got some BMW Li-NMC cells, and hopefully I'll be replacing these.
@@DavidPozEnergy very cool. If you were closer I would try and buy you lifepo4 batteries off you. But i am in utah
I built my personal system for my rv out of the spim08hp cells. These are working fairly well so far. Just hard to work with
What's the verdict? Curious if you think it was worth the effort based on your results... Also, I'm only counting 8 modules here - Are you saving the other four for another project, or did I miss something? Thanks so much for all the great work you've done paving the way!!!
The other 4 modules were my friends, Bills. I picked them up for him, but they went to his house for his backup system. Here is his system: ua-cam.com/video/6XLOKtl-q3s/v-deo.html
As for these 8 batteries. Are they worth it? Well, they do power the house. But I would not buy them again. I don't think they are worth it. There are better deals out there. If I was to do this again, I would go with a used EV battery such as a Nissan Leaf pack.
Any problems with using one BMS for the whole tower? If you do it again, would you just use a BMS on each pack?
There shouldn't be a problem with one BMS for the whole pack, but I'm still finalizing the setup.
I can’t seem to wrap my brain around how you can use a single bms for 8 batteries? Wouldn’t you need a bms with 64 wires? Brain cramp. Help.
How will you know if one of the fuses goes? Just periodically check? Or do the fuses have something like an indicator bypass?
The fuses have no indication. So far I have not seen more than 2 amps moving, so the 30 amp fuses will probably never go. Yes, I'll periodically check. I'm also planning to add a little display to the front of each battery. If any cell is off from the other modules I'll know something is going on.
@@DavidPozEnergy Wow, thanks for the reply David! I've been following along with your current build for a build I'm doing. It's been very helpful seeing your videos. I'll watch for the display video when you get to that part.
I was wondering why you didn't short out by having cells in series and parallel at the same time but then i noticed that you parallelled top 4 and separately bottom 4 not all 8 together.
I don't think you mentioned that and I'm pretty sure if someone does, there will be lots to talk about .
I thought at first that they were 4S 2P with 12v batteries.
Maybe warn people to not parallel between batteries where the series connection happens or describe your set up a 2S 4P.
Lots newbys out there.
Stephen Duquette newbie here. I’m assuming Dave did the 2(4p’s) to bring the ah’s up to 400ah @ 24v and then the 2s to bring the voltage up to 48v @ 400ah (assuming each battery is 100ah?). Also, I’m assuming he attached the side parallel wires so the cells would constantly balance with each other?
we have the tower of London and the tower of power :D
I'm having the same problem with these batteries. There is a cell in each that reaches 3.65 volts well before the others and stops the charge current. My high current balancer are hung up in China so I'm looking at manually bringing those high cells down with high watt resistors. I'm not understanding how you're paralleling the cells AND leaving the internal series bus bars on. Doesn't that create a short across the cells? I gotta look at this more...
I did run my whole house off one pair for 3 hours one evening. It was all very happy. The test came to an early end because my wife wanted to use the oven and the wires for each pair are only rated for 100 amps and I want a max of only 50 amps going through them. I will have 5 pair (10 batteries) hooked up when I'm done.
Yeah, the series/parallel thing can be confusing at first. My bottom 4 modules are all paralleled together. The top 4 modules are also paralleled. So I have a giant 24v battery at the top, and a separate giant 24v battery on the bottom. There is only one series connection between the two to make the 48v connection.
@@DavidPozEnergy I am with Eric B. I understand what you mean by the bottom 4 being parallel and the top 4 as well then series together. What I don't get is the internal cell parallels you installed.
Looking at just say the bottom 4 parralleled modules. Each module is a set of series cells. So you parralleled an individual cell that is part of a series (module #1) with another cell that'll is part of another series (module #2), the module #1 and module #2 are paralleled together as well.
Now that I think more about it. That does make sense. To simplify it's like having 2 AA batteries in series. Then another just like it in parrallel. You would have you would have 3V. You can then run a line from the "middle" of the 2 AA batteries in each "bank" essentially parralleling the individual cells while the banks are still parralleled together. Essentially allowing any cells that are weak to be helped by stronger cells.
Hopefully that make sense to others. I just had to type it out and visualize it.
So in your setup you ran 4 wires from each side of each bank so you parralleled every corosponding cell in all 4 banks to each other. Ok I get it now. Thanks for working through that with me (assuming you're still reading this).
I guess the only issue here would be if say cell #1 in all 4 modules were weak compared to the others. This wouldn't allow cell #2 in module #2 to help out cell #1 in any other module. Am I thinking about this correctly?
Before paralleling the cells, I had written down the cell voltages, and translated that into three groups of cells for good, better, best. My goal was to move the modules around as needed to make sure I didn't line up 4 cells that were all very weak. I put this into a spreadsheet and tried different arrangements. But every time I moved one modules from the top 4, to the bottom, it lined up another set of bad. Anyways, in the end I found there was no ideal arrangement and kept each module on the shelf it started at. The only way to get better would be removing each cell from the modules and that is more work than I have time for. Good enough rather than perfect.
Have you seen the new graphene batteries, like to recharge your phone? I think the UA-cam channel is “Gary explains”
Maybe a thin teflon sheet would help the sliding
Old news , but the plastic cases do help with sliding . I don't think an additional sheet would help much ...if at all .
David I just ran into this video, this guy is talking about manually charging each cell with a power supply, also how voltage can be deceiving to measure state of charge. I will use his same method to charge my batteries, I am 99 percent sure this method will increase pack capacity. Your idea to parallel the cells balances the cells but will not do anything to increase state off charge, good luck
More then likely you will not recover any capacity. Voltage reading is not a great test for capacity or even condition of the battery but it is a factor in the equation.
are you still using these batteries? I have a few but looking for more, They have not come up for sale since you and I bought them
Sorry, but I no longer have mine.
Hey are you still looking? I have 2 of the 24volt versions that are still great and need to get rid of. Let me know if you are still looking. Thanks
When you’re paralleling three of these can you’re buy with one BMS for three of them.
Yes and no yes because you can parallel the cells first then series connection the no is because the BMS is not going to going to know individual cells voltage but instead the combined voltage in the paralleled cells will it work yes but not as effectively.
Really enjoying this series. Learning a bunch from you figuring things out before I do! Will this parallel wiring allow you to use a single BMS across the entire setup?
Yes, exactly. Just one BMS.
I am thinking about going with supposedly new 120 amphour cells from ali. I have seen where people think these are actually used 200 amphour cells that now have about 120 amphour capacity. I wonder what you have found out about the rate of degradation of the LiFePo4 cells. Do they degrade faster from whatever used point they are . In other words does it take more cycles to degrade from full capacity to say 80% than from *0 % to 60 percent capacity. Because of this I wonder how many cycles are left in the used cells. Any guesses or data from anywhere?
I can't find any long-term real testing pushing cells beyond the 80% point. So I don't know.
@@DavidPozEnergy I see a typo meant starting with 80% capacity cells already degraded from original capacity the number of cycles to degrade from say 80% to 60%. I think you knew what I meant. Reasoning is if its fairly linear won't hurt to get used cells at about $150 per kwhr but if degrades a lot faster the next 20% and so but if half the total cycles expected have been used would rater pay $250 per kwhr or a little more for truly new cells
I understood. It's a good question, I just don't know.
So Mr Poz, I work with a solar contractor and we are getting ready to purchase a large quantity of these 24v modules.. I plan on using 4 for myself at 48v (I have a lv5048) some of the other customers are asking for my recommendations? would you recommend this approach or just buy new LifePo4 cells at this point? what bms would you recommend? (i prefer bluetooth with low temp cutoff) here is the catch.. I need to charge the batteries at 24v not 48, but my lv5048 is also an inverter charger.. any recommendations will be appreciated.(edit...I have been informed that mid point charging is a bad idea.. I may be selling my lv5048 and sticking with 24v inverter\chargers such as mpp lv2424.)
Hi Susan Meister, I don't recommend these 24v modules. Yes, they work, but the cells were badly abused. This makes it hard to keep the cells balanced. I've had very good success using used EV cells, and new cells.
I don't recommend charging at a different voltage than you are using them at. And I don't like the LV5048. I reviewed the LV5048 here: ua-cam.com/video/FUaDmVDcYks/v-deo.html
Low temperature cut-off is OK to have, but should not be the deciding factor. It's far more important to keep your batteries above freezing 100% of the time. For example, my friend Bill built a heated box for his batteries you can see here: ua-cam.com/video/6XLOKtl-q3s/v-deo.html
@@DavidPozEnergy awesome.. thanks for the advice and the links for the heated box.. I had my questions about the battery and how hard they were used.. thanks a ton.
@@DavidPozEnergy one more thing. lifepo4 280ah is my new target.. if i end up with 4 new 24v (8cell) batteries, would you recommend 1 bms for every 8 cells? or assemble the batteries 4 parallel cells x8 then series.. and use one big bms? could you recommend a 8s bms with low temp, low volt cut off and bluetooth?
shouldent it of been 8 cables each side ? or at leat the ones thast have the pcb attached
The cells are huge. They have two posts per side, but the posts are connected internally.
@@DavidPozEnergy ah ok seemed an odd pattern
Can you recommend a BMS for this battery bank?
That depends on your amps. I'm testing a Chargery brand BMS right now, connected to a 300 amp breaker. Or you can use a 200 amp Daly brand BMS.
DavidPoz thanks for your reply! Where is the best place to get one? Do you have a video of how to install one?
Looking for what you did with the BYD batteries?
What I did with them? Nothing. They are still in the shelves.
@@DavidPozEnergy what I meant was did you make a vid of building
Something with tHem . I bought several from hookup a,nd wanted to compare notes 🤪🐢
I used them for about a year. They never stayed in balance well. I recently bought 6x Gyll batteries and am using them. My intention is to take down my tower of power and individually test each cell. Try to find the bad ones.
@@DavidPozEnergy I followed your lead and bought the Gyll from signature s using your code still waiting for them to come in.
Awesome. Almost 2 months running the Gyll and no issues.
Please insert a message Technical subtitles in the script will be even better.
Hi l wanted to know if you can convert a Solar Inverter Sunny Boy 2000W sma or a GoodWe Solar String Inverter GW12K-DT to work as a off grid inverter, please let me know thanks
I don't know how to do that, or if it can be done. However, you can use grid-tie inverters in off-grid situations if you have another off-grid inverter that buffers the batteries. I plan to try this in an upcoming video.
@@DavidPozEnergy thanks Dave I've looking forward to that video p.s. you have been a good inspiration for all my solar little projects I'm keeping hidden for now and also please let me know what you think of the mpp Solar inverters
@@DavidPozEnergy I forgot to mention and a sunny boy sb 2000 hf-30
Hi Tony, I've only published one video on a MPP Solar inverter model LV5048. I'm working on another video. But here is the first one: ua-cam.com/video/FUaDmVDcYks/v-deo.html
A portable engine hoist is a good thing
Lift dollies are nice too, especially if you can find an old used one, the old one I used was a lot sturdier than the new ones I see
20+ years totally off-grid solar here and hoping to get off of lead-acid battery sets. Our current set is a Hawker forklift battery, 24 volt (12 large 2 volt cells in series) and is dying after 12 years in service (who says you can't make lead-acid batteries last a long time). Anyway, time for a new battery set and I don't want to screw this up. Iron Edisons are just too darned expensive for us so I'm strongly considering these modules. I just wish I had some idea how long they will last. I'm looking at the completed modules Battery Hookup offers for double the price, but being handy, I may go your route. Anyone know if the individual cells are available for replacing bad/weak cells?
I'm a little worried about this parallel setup and balancing. This being our ONLY source of power excepting a generator, it is critical I get it right (or I may be sleeping alone in the future). My plan would be 6 modules in parallel, keeping our 24 volt setup intact - working fine and I don't want to replace everything up to 48 volts. Currently using Outback charge controllers and inverter/chargers.
Thanks for the work you are doing!
12 years sounds pretty good for Lead acid. Most books I've read say 6 years, and you are double that. So good job.
These cells are pretty far down the life expectancy. I'm just guessing, but if you plan to cycle them fully every day, I don't think you could get another 12 years out of them.
just go for a new lifepo4 battery bank. once installed no worries
I liked the video, but man oh man, the money you are spending. Have you calculated ROI or is that not a concern? I like what you are doing from a technical POV, but I don't think I'd put all the labor and money into being off grid if ROI was way out there ... I'd just pay my bill and enjoy my free time. I hope you paid cash for all involved since to be paying interest would make ROI even worse. Hopefully you don't take this comment as negativity. I'm just extremely sensitive to my trade offs and weigh my options primarily based on ROI from both a labor and cash POV. Your knowledge is impressive and I'm amazed at what you've put together.
What is your end game? Is there ever a month in the future where you can see yourself as just passively enjoying all that you have going there? I say that not knowing how long you had your other setup running and if it was on autopilot for a long time.
I'd like to think I could have off grid setup for all except AC and it would run on autopilot for the most part. I don't mind tinkering, but I don't think I want to be babysitting just to get free electricity. Are my expectations out of line? Do you think the packs you are employing will allow your setup to be more on autopilot than those who build their own cell packs.
Sorry, I'm long winded sometimes, but your POV is of interest to me.
Hi D Dixon. Last year I was running my system on auto-pilot. I had an Aims inverter and Chevy Volt batteries. Did my whole house (including AC) all summer. But as things got colder that system was too small. I decided to upgrade, and that meant an overhaul on everything.
But this is my hobby. It's fun for me. Similar to someone who takes pleasure in going to ball games, collecting memorabilia, studying player stats. I enjoy learning about off-grid power.
@@DavidPozEnergy Yeah, I had a feeling you considered off grid a hobby so instead of woodworking, fast cars, or boats, you're having a genuine amount of enjoyment working with solar. At least it keeps you home near your family and even though you are spending quite a bit of money, unlike a lot of other hobbies, this one actually does pay you back.
We are moving to the Philippines soon where brownouts aren't as frequent as they once were, but still a fair share of them so I'd like to have lights and more when everyone else is in the dark.
Good job, very interesting, hope to be as clever as you are one day.
DavidPoz
What is your capacity on these batteries?
I tested them at 24kwh for the whole stack.
How do I make it 3phase
Tie the battery to a 3 phase inverter...
where do i buy battery for 100 at
I bought this battery from www.batteryhookup.com but I don't think this exact one is for sale right now. They have several others that might work well for you. You can use my coupon code "DAVIDPOZ" for 10% off.
"David ,quantos kilos de peso tem uma bateria destas que você tem?vc vai precisar de um sistema de elevação para erguer todo este peso!tudo ai é peso :os inversores é peso as baterias é peso ufa,fiquei cansado só de ver kkkk,abraços e boa energia.
Each battery is 74.4 kilo-grams. Almost 600 kilo-grams for the whole rack.
On a weight basis aluminum is actually better than copper.
What is the capacity of each module?
Originally each module is rated at 220 ah, 5.63 kwh. However, they are used. Battery Hookup says about 4kwh on their website.
@@DavidPozEnergy thanks man...
Affiliate link is not working
Sorry about that. I think Battery Hookup ran out of these in-stock. They have other batteries available at: www.batteryhookup.com You can use my coupon code "DAVIDPOZ" for 10% off.
It is not recommended to directly connect aluminum electrodes with copper and nickel, Copper and nickel corrode aluminum.
Türkçe alt yazı desteği verirmisin
I wish to show us whats is that mess BMS look like on a plan
Hope the batteries last long enough to pay for them self's
I am scared to buy used batteries unless thay are lto
Yeah, LTOs are pretty awesome. If Battery Hookup gets more LTO's I'll buy more of them.
You have a nice little family there you're truly blessed by God
Have you ever thought about building inverters
We have built a few of them that's pretty easy
It's a cheap way to get a low frequency power inverter
I have a few APC Transformers I would donate to you if you decide to build one
Like I said it's very simple to do you can buy the mainboard off of eBay or AliExpress
The first couple that we built are documented on
the backshed. Com
The first one being little China inverter board Ben and amber
It might make a good UA-cam video just a suggestion thanks for your time
Thanks, that would be a fun project. I'll take a look at your website.
It's not my website Dave but it is a very good website for a lot of different information on a lot of the things that you do there's engineers on there that will answer your questions very smart people but it's nothing to do with me I just posted a project or two on there
Ok, I am trying to wrap my head around the parallel wiring.
You have 4 leads on each side.
That is 8 wires, but 8 cells have 16 terminals.
8 positive, and 8 negative.
Each cell has two posts. And every other cell is tied together...
So, the positive side has 5 bars to connect to, and the negative side has 4
That is more wires than I can see.
I wish you showed the connections on both sides, not just on the negative side.
It looks like I need 4 on the negative side and 3 on the positive side, then main negative and main positive linked.
I'm going to be taking down this tower of batteries. I'm replacing it with new cells. When I take it down I can try to show you the other side. But these old BYD cells don't work well.
@@DavidPozEnergy I will look forward to that video.
I am setting up a bank of 4 for a powerbank trailer emergency power setup.
I'm assuming that the cells in the battery unit are wired in series. Don't you have to disrupt the connections between them before they can be wired parallel?
Once they are all balanced properly in parallel then don't you have to connect them back into series to get the 24V ? Are there 6 or 12 cells in each unit? How many amp hours per unit?
Each module is 8 cells in series. Originally the modules were rated at 220 ah, 5.63 kwh. But they are used and won't be that good any more. I'm only paralleling like cells together. So only the cells in position #1 are parallel together, which is 4 cells. Then the 4 cells in position #2 are paralleled and so on.
Basically, the jumper leads are paralleling the like step voltage cells together. Hopefully, this will perform a parallel balance between the cells in each voltage step. Just a thought as I recently read about a recommendation to charge in parallel to 3.4V and to let them sit together and equalize for a couple days before going to 3.65V, but this was for prebalancing new cells.
@@DavidPozEnergy En genius, I have been grappling with the concept of paralleling each cell to each cell from each battery pack and you did it. Let me see if understand your wiring. I see that on the negative side of each of your BYD batteries (one giant 24v), you have four wires say A, B, C, and D. which is to be paralleled to its equivalent cell A, B, C and D on the next lower four cells. Cell A battery 1 to cell A battery 2 ....cell A to battery 4. Now on your positive side of your BYD batteries, you have three wires to be paralleled to its equivalent cell on the next lower four cell. Paralleling the top four BYD batteries together and the same for the lower four BYD batteries. if you can include a wiring diagram in you next video that would be great, or if you can email it to MNRosado@live.com i would appreciate it. I think this is a great idea for keeping the cells in balance DIY.
@Marco, I think you got this correct. I might suggest checking out one of Frank Z videos. He also parallels cell groups of the same voltage, but his wiring is more open. I think it's easier to visually follow the wires. ua-cam.com/video/teF5MJ2jNfA/v-deo.html If you still want a wiring diagram, I'll make you one. just e-mail me through my website or send me a message in facebook.
@@DavidPozEnergy I did some voltage testing this morning so I think I got it. Will set it up next week, waiting for you charge and discharge results. Thanks guy!!!
So, 4 wires each side, you are paralleling pairs of cells to each... 6.4v on each new wire.
I believe he has the top 4 in parallel and the bottom 4 in parallel then has the top 4 connected to the bottom 4 in series 24v + 24v .
David, I know this will come across as an armchair critic.....honestly not being critical here, just want to give you something to think about. Your shelving is carrying a LOT of weight. The way you are attaching the supporting shelving to the uprights is dangerous.The only thing holding it all together is those screws ....which are in sheer. If those shelves let go with all that power on them, well it could go badly for you. Again, not wanting to be critical or a smarta*s. Just hoping you give it some thought. You have a family to protect.
You offered no discussion on why it's not in your best interest to use batteries that are in balanced. Or the fact that batteries need to be replaced all at the same time to avoid this imbalance. Using reconditioned or otherwise known as used batteries is not the safest or the wisest.
SHORT comings! Comming short is NO good!
This is why I don't like buying used modules, you could but a few Headway cells to beef up the weeek cells! If the per cell drain is low enough you might be able to connect them to the balance leads?
Yes, I could parallel some headways. I might do one just for the fun of the video. However, I'm OK with limiting my use to the ah of the weakest cell group. I don't want to put more time into fine-tuning this pack. I just want to put the pack into full service. I have that LTO pack to get back to.
David from the start of your video it seem that what you expected to get for power isn't what you are getting at all. Lack luster.
These batteries turned out to be plain frozen yogurt. I was hoping for Ben and Jerrys.
They seem about as heavy as two truck batteries
They are 164 pounds each.
@@DavidPozEnergy You are not going to believe this but my body weight is currently 144.8 lbs Yes, 144.8 lbs I am a ten stone weakling! (skinny git!) I could see how heavy they are because you are by no means a weakling and you were huffin and puffin! :)
I do furniture removals for a living that is why I am so bloody skinny! :)
ten stone. Thanks for putting up the conversion, I don't know what a stone is. LOL. I was huffin' because I'm out of shape. I weigh 250 pounds. I guess that's 17.8 stone according to google conversion.
@@DavidPozEnergy oh yeah we use old measurements here in the UK 14 pounds to a stone!
it is probably not a good idea trying to get "the few last amp hours" out of missmatched second hand batteries. besides not so good on the ageing too.