Let's Assemble A Large Capacity DIY Lifepo4 Battery Kit By Apexium
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- This video is about the assembly and modifications of a DIY battery box made by Apexium and Sold by my favorite supplier, Jenny Wu with Docan Technology. She supplied the box and the cells used in this video. If you would like to order this kit you should contact her directly at Jennywu896@gmail.com. This kit allows you to DIY your own large capacity battery from either 280 AH cells or 304AH cells. I hope this helps you to work towards your own energy independence even if you don't have the time or skills to build your own enclosures. Best wishes y'all.
Look at the DIY solar forums for "Careful if you ordered Apexium DIY Box (melted fuse cover)" it looks like there's 2 mistakes in the Apexium instructions. From the video I think you got the washer on the fuse right despite the instructions but the busbar connected to the positive terminal should be the other way round to get copper to copper contact.
I don’t have any washers in the current path. Look again at the video. It would be a mistake to put a stainless washer in the current path and would create heat under high current flows.
As I said you got it right with the washer despite the instructions which have it wrong, I was pointing out the mistake in the instructions for people. The busbar is the wrong way round as you've got copper to PEM nut to copper, It's been working for 6 months so it should be fine hopefully others won't make the same mistake. The Seplos instructions have it the correct way @@RayBuildsCoolStuff
I have reviewed the build and the instructions and now understand what you are saying about the PEM nut. This is definitely a mistake and easily fixed by flipping the busbar as you said. I wrongly assumed that the nut was tinned copper but a little filing set me straight on that. I haven't run really big amps through it so I had no indication of the problem but it would definitely cause an issue. Thank you for bringing this to my attention as I rarely go to Will's forum these days. I will pin this comment thread to the top of the comments and contact Docan about the mistakes in their instructions.
@RayBuildsCoolStuff Docan did nothing unfortunately about the PEM, I have that battery box bought from them and another one is arriving. It is running since may with the bus bar with PEM nut on the current flow as per instructions. I have also washers on the current path on the fuse, something that is not in the instruction anymore (what you have on 30:04), maybe I used old instructions as well, I checked on the latest pdf on gdrive and that is corrected. I will fix everything soon, and I will take a look also at the terminal connectors which I do not like, it seems they can be an issue as well, I would like to change them with the screw ones ad so so I need to take some measurement.
Jenny quoted just under $2600 delivered to California. Lead time 2 months, this is outstanding price per kWhr. Thanks Ray!!!
where in CA? Im in orange county looking to do the same?
What did you get for 2600. What cells
How many kWh did you get with the diy kit for $2600 total? And how's it working out? Thank you!!
Even without a ring terminal, you should check your nuts. lol
😅😂
I would like to hear some cost of the box & batteries --- not expecting to be held to a quote - just an idea of what I would spend .
Very limited supply of $$$ ;)
Thanks again
In the US it is about 700 plus the cells so a total of around 2500 to 3000.
Thanks @@RayBuildsCoolStuff
good effort tnx .
Just one question though.
If you are so consciously aware that your videos are loooong why don't you make them shorter instead of constantly apologizing about it? 😜😜 Have a good day and thnx
😂
4:41 same here!
I have 2 Batteries that were "free-standing" no fixtures. After 2 years, the cells expanded by 2mm on either side, cells now require at least 4mm of space between each other. The Busbars has only 4mm of allowance.. If these expand further, the terminals will definitely get damaged!
I am ordering Apexium boxes from Jenny..
just was looking at the Apexium new boxes It would seem that they took the small change of tapping a separate screw in just as you did
It took a while but glad they made the change.
Hi Ray, I think you are my favourite non-nonsense battery builder, and wanted to give you my 2 cts regarding fixing ringterminals on the cell terminal. If you have cells where you can mount a longer threaded rod instead of the one fixed in the cell (Lishen's are like that and I have seen CATL & EVE identical) you just use separate nuts for fixing the busbar to the cell and on top of that the ring terminal for the voltage sensor. I know this is not an option for everyone but would see that as easier than drilling a separate hole.
love your attention to detail. I picked up a number of improvements for my boats DIY EVE 280 12v system. Thank you.
I’m glad I could help.
Aluminium or copper the eternal question.
My experience is on the distribution network, we used both but moved to mainly aluminium for cost 30 years or so ago. As long as the surfaces are cleaned (wire wool etc), paste used, and good compressive washers then there is no problem in most conditions (salt water is a no no).
Belville or cupped washers (with a steel flat washer between them and the bar) are our standard as IF there is any slackening effect the spring tension of the washers keeps the pressure constant. Normal spring washers, the wire type are not suitable as they dig into the aluminium.
Nothing is better than a good tightening though, even with copper, run it a few times then tighten again as you point out.
Always good comments David
Just bought two Apexium cases and 16 cells 280AH. And yes, I did mention your channel.
Just sent an email to Jenny and mentioned your channel.
Will the BMS take care of balancing new cells? Can it be instructed to bottom or top balance? Or, will additional equipment be needed for balancing? Thank you again!! 🙏🏽
@@quartamile it will take a long time to balance new cells with the BMS. It can be done but I would recommend buying an inexpensive power supply like I have shown in my video bought testers and power supplies. After the battery is assembled and charged, you will find that as it gets closer to being fully charged some of the cells will start to go up to their full charge before the others. This is the time when you can look at the cell voltages of all the cells individually and you can take, the cell with the lowest voltage and bring it up to full voltage or close to it. You can do this by setting your power supply to 3.65 V and attaching it across the terminals of the lowest cell. Watch the voltage of that cell and when it gets, close to the voltage of the highest cell take the power supply off of it and moved to the next lowest voltage cell. You will have to pay attention and watch this almost continuously and it will take some time. I always recommend instead doing a proper balancing by charging all the cells in parallel at 3.65 V. If you use a small power supply to do this, it will take a very long time. The upside is you wouldn’t have to watch it continuously. I don’t want to make this response too long because I have videos that explain most of this.I have not made a video about balancing in this cell by cell method, but perhaps I will.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff wow, thank you so very much for the clarity! You're an excellent educator! Bless
If you want to use the kit as supplied and not need to drill a extra hole in the busbar just use Loctite 290 after the bolts are torqued to the proper setting (around 7 NM). Just put some on let set for a few minutes the wipe off any excess. This is made for electrical connections and will prevent the nuts from backing off during heat cycles. Even if you drill the extra holes I would suggest using the Loctite 290. Just my 2 cents.
I must agree with you about the temperature sensors. Never place anything between the busbar and the cell terminal. That's more or less a "prime directive". Hopefully they listen to your suggestions and make the corrections.
When do you think the system will be commissioned? A ‘warm hug’ from Pittsburgh! Lol
Done well with the video. It will be a majestical day when you get that flipper off.
Hi Ray the new busbars that come with the kit have been updated to your design. There is also a new upgrade on the BMS, it is an active touchscreen balancer by JK but I nave hard that if the battery is turned off for a few days the new BMS does not save the custom inputs for an lithium iron battery and goes to a default setting of lithium ion battery with a 4.2v charge rate. Has anyone heard if this has been corrected?
Superb Ray, steady work, dont rush. BTW you made my butt squinch when messing with small screws on top of your box. My butter fingers would be sure to fumble one or more so they drop down inside your assy. Wouldnt want stray metal floating around inside and it may be hard to find, needing dismantling - what a bummer eh? I would use a cloth guard somehow to protect such calamity - it would really bug me.
With the cost, that is something that many people I think will go for. This video was very good and very informative. Thanks for putting this one together. This box has the looks of one that was actually well thought out before it went to production. I have seen others that were just frames you had to assemble. This one also has room for a few improvements here and there as well. Thanks for the video. I now have a few more ideas for what I want to with the system I am working on.
Thanks for all of the detail you are providing a great service to the battery build community!!!
For the battery expansion, didn’t the battery connection links I used to see have an expansion bubble in the middle of the link to accommodate expansion? That would certainly help with the possible problem of post connections becoming loose due to any cycling battery expansion. Really like and would prefer the copper (expansion type) links. 10-32 or 1/4/20 threaded holes also get very high marks. I’m thinking you are kinda like me and lean heavily towards to as close to perfect as you can get, then I don’t have to come back later and resolve an issue that I should have taken care of in the first place. Lots of good detailed info.
I was thinking a similar thing, where I've seen busbars that are crescent-moon shaped (half a flat ring?), alternately, one (or two) large diameter, short, flat, woven copper fabric (see 'Ground Strap', or 'Grounding Braid').
Thanks Ray! I pick up up 16 of the 304 cells and a battery box. Great tips on install and need for specific battery cable. What battery cables did you order for your Apexium battery case?
Just a update... Jenny contacted me today with all the fedex codes and fedex has tommorow delivery scheduled. That is faster than Amazon Prime delivers. 3 days to delivery from texas warehouse to georgia.
How much was it?
@@supermo26
Cells $2000, case $700.
Man i miss your videos. Why take this long to upload
was so looking forward to this video
Those boxes are nice but to me not worth the extra cost. I can build a wooden box do the same thing. Even steel I can weld one together.
HOWdy R-B-C-S, ...
Thanks = any idea of the RETAIL Cost of the CONTAINER alone ( with no CELLS ) ?
Thanks
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
It depends on your location but contact Jenny Wu at jennywu896@gmail.com and she will let you know.
Wow, is this the 17kWh battery? And it's just the diy kit for $700, not the cells, correct? Thank you so much!
@@quartamile I think less than 500$ plus the cells and those prices have moderated a great deal. In the US, perhaps a little over 2100 total but it depends on how long you can wait.
Ray is there a place to buy 8 45-55 amp hour cells, love your videos, good information...
I’ve never tried to buy any in that size. Have you asked Jenny Wu. She is my trusted source for cells.
I have always churched the washers out from the battery when I get them with the same thought.
HI Ray - hope you're well. It's been 11 months since you posted this video. Have you confirmed whether DOCAN implemented your advised modifications to their battery kit? It seems like 11 months should have been ample time to make these small but important mods. Thanks!
I heard from a subscriber that they now have copper buss bars with threaded holes for the sensing wires.
tak for din gode video. som du selv har set så burde terminalerne være møtrikker eller skruer , jeg venter også på tilslutning terminaler , de burde være med i leveringen . Henrik 🙃
Good stuff again Ray! Thank you for giving a overview of this enclosure. The enclosure part was still a unknown for my battery system.
Thanks Ray very interesting Take care. M
I just purchased a box and 16 cells from Jenny. This was my first battery build and if I were more careful things would have gone great. A few small issues during the build but it came together. I dealing with a broken LCD screen with Jenny now but I am confident she will get it resolved. The battery settings recommendations would be great for beginners like me because I have no clue how to top balance a battery like this or if it needs it. What should the voltage be on your first charge? What other settings should be adjusted before I connect it to my inverter charger device?
Hi Sam
The settings in the unit will work and as you learn more you may decide to make adjustments but many people don’t.
I have videos about top balancing but that should be done prior to assembly. One thing you can do is get a power supply and top up individual cells to get them closer. You will want to get the battery charged until there are cells in the 3.5v range. Some will be lower. You can top these up individually. Set the power supply to 3.65 volts, connect it across an individual cell that measures below the rest and watch. Let the cell get a bit above the others (maybe 3.520v) because the voltage will settle back a bit after the power supply is removed. This may take a long time depending on the variation in the state of charge. If you need to leave it unattended then disconnect the power supply, adjust the setting to 3.55 volts and reconnect so you don’t overcharge the cell. This is not failsafe as the cheap power supplies can fail so don’t leave home with it running, just to be on the safe side. I should probably do a video on this method.
I think these battery boxes are cool but the boxes are so expensive rather just build my own box and put that money towards solar panels or battery cells. Sure if money was no object build it. Thinking I will buy myself a used metal brake and make one. Save some cash.
By the time I added up the cost of the BMS and the cabling and the connectors and the materials to build my own box it cost about the same. The difference is a whole lot less time putting this together than building my own, but as far as the money goes, I’m pretty sure it was a break even.
Excellent video !!! So helpful to the folks who do not have woodworking skills or access to a lot of tools or just don't want to put in all the time necessary to build the boxes ! .you are the Bob Ross of battery cell construction !! Jk ! That is a complement!
Thanks 👍
@@RayBuildsCoolStuffDo they make a 24v kit?
@@michaeld4502 I don’t think so.
When I watched this video I forgot to ask if the BMS is what it looks like namely the 10E version 2 🙏
Yes
Man im so sorry about your leg… get well soon!! All the best… Andonis
Another question. I don't know if I should or can trust the ideas of series parallel batteries. One bad cell in a parallel configuration would destroy its twin( parallel ) counterpart
I agree although it is done somewhat routinely. I won’t do it.
As always great content and some nice tips for improvements. I would mount the temperature sensors in between the cells because this is the fastest way to detect an overheating pack, in which case you should also stop charging or discharging the pack. There is most likely an additional temp. sensor on the BMS board that will detect low temperatures.
I love the idea of buying a kit like this, mainly because we use our solar system as a company. DIY stuff always raises questions when the guy from the fire insurance comes over to see if our building is still safe.
Love the videos. I want to build my own battery. What BMS do you suggest?
Seplos or this similar one from Apex.
looks good Ray. Just curious why you used carbon conductive paste on all conections. If it was Aluminium bus bars or conductors then similar paste is used just for that purpose..but why carbon conductive with copper material. Could you please explain ..if not here maybe with video ? I just want to understand difference between normal copper connection or tin coated copper connection to be eact as i don't get why carbon paste is used. If you want to improve connetions you could use silver grease that will improve parameters even more.. Thanks.
You may have missed it in the video but I find the resistance of the connections is better when the paste is used and I suspect it bridges minute gaps. If we could tighten these connections with more torque it probably would not help but we probably end up with small gaps. I speak of this in at least 3 of my other videos but probably more. Hope that helps to explain my thoughts on this. I actually did a good bit of research on this and found a consensus that was borne out by my testing.
Thanks Ray copy of the note I sent Jenny
Hello Jenny,
I am being referred by "Ray builds cool stuff". I am interested in purchasing 48 each grade A Lifepo4 3.2V cells 3.2v 320 ah batteries along with 3 of the diy battery case kits, so I will end up with 3 each 15+kw batteries. I would like copper buss bars like he shows in his videos. Would like them tapped if possible.
Would also like to buy 3 extra bms units.
I live right outside of Houston, Tx. and could pick up at your Houston location.
Please advice price. I will purchase in the next 45 days.
Thank you,
By the way you are the goat.
David, I'm interested in what Jenny said about the tapped copper bus bars - can she supply them?? I would like to order two of the case kits with 32 of the 304 Ah cells.
She said not at this time.@@KeithKropf
Excellent job @Ray Builds Cool Stuff
👍👏! Do you think there is room to conveniently 'upgrade' to the proper Class T fuse? Perhaps make a suggestion for both options, std ANL, or Upgraded Class T. Thanks for showing the conductive paste, 1. Why no paste under nut? 2. Why don't you polish battery posts anymore?
I do polish but didn’t show that. I prioritized what I presented and I do these videos without a script so what you see is just what occurred to me as I made the video. I have to keep the flow in my head and also keep track of what I’ve already said so I don’t repeat myself. That’s why you see me hesitate as if lost in thought sometimes. It’s all part of my process and style and sometimes things fall between the cracks. I don’t think there is room for a T class fuse inside, mostly because of how the supplied flat flexible cabling is run and how it would need to be modified to work. The existing fuse location is too tight for the fuse holders I use. Also I’ll take this opportunity to correct something I said in the video. The class T fuses I use are actually 200A, not 225A. I don't use paste under the nut because I wouldn't want the lubrication and it isn't my current path. The threaded studs and nuts are stainless and that isn't a good electrical conductor.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuffRay, was the person you saw who shorted their battery Maddy from "The digital mermaid" ua-cam.com/video/HhiEky64BLg/v-deo.html. I have heard from a number of persons in the lithium battery community not to use ANL fuses because in the event of a short there could be so much current flow that the short circuit arc created might not be extinguished when the fuse blows and the current is not cut, not something I would like to see happen. Have you got any more information regarding the use of this ANL type of fuse since making this video. Thanks so much.
@@sammaimas155 yes
Be careful about falling into group think regarding fuses or any of a number of things. Class T fuses are more robust but all the people that bad mouth ANL fuses don’t show evidence of properly rated fuses failing to function properly. Same goes with flexible busbars. There is no evidence that they are needed in a properly built and restrained system and millions of batteries have been built with rigid busbars. The internet is not flooded with pictures of failures and that’s rather surprising considering how many of these things are built by amateurs with no mechanical inclination.
There is no room in the metal box to fit a class T fuse. I’m ok with it but certainly we need additional breakers in the system for other reasons.
Thank for video.
Hi Ray, I have to locate my batteries in my unheated garage and I live in Pennsylvania. Do you have any knowledge of options for installing internal heating in these cases for those few days when my internal garage temperature might dip below 32 degrees F? I'm willing to insulate the outside of the case, but I'd like to avoid having build another temperature controlled enclosure to encase 3 of these batteries, while accommodating wiring, etc. I understand that any heating would likely use some of the battery charge if both solar and grid were down. THANK you in advance for any guidance here! How are your horses doing??
Hi
I think in this situation I would build some five sided boxes out of 2 inch polyisocyanurate foam. Just join the boxes together and put them over the battery boxes. If you left them like that all winter, the internal temperature would likely stay fine without any heating needed. The BMS will tell you if you get close and then you might have to put a little heating element in but you might avoid that altogether.
The horses are great.
Jake’s training is coming along very nicely
Awesome as always and very valuable info.
Is the Class T Fuse just too bulky to substitute for their fuse and will not fit? Thanks Ray!
Too bulky and hard to coordinate with the existing flat "cabling" system.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff - other than the your fuse versus what you use - I think it’s a “go” for me young man! Thanks again!
Ray, that "washer" the drawing mentions, is in my manual mentioned to as "copper crush ring".
It is supposed to go on the terminal, and under the busbar..
It ensures a much bigger contact area, and for a very flat and good connection between terminal and busbar
On this one it is aluminum and I've already proven to myself that the surface area is inconsequential due to the smaller surface area just having greater psi or force per area. In all my testing I found that prep trumped surface area every time. I made a video about adding aluminum washers to the terminals to improve surface area and it actually increased the overall resistance of the connection. When I bought the aluminum washers and did the test I expected far different results than I got and I did the first test on the video so it ended up having a different purpose than I thought it would. I ended up proving once again that data is worth more than theory. I keep forgetting that.
It is interesting that they had it under the busbar on the Seplos kit like I did in my video and shows it on top of the busbars in this kit.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff agreed, plus ( and verified this) the seplos kits they are tinned soft copper rings, so actually crush rings..
Did Apexium provide torque specs on the BMS side? I saw 6NM on the cells.
When I calculated the size of rack mount chassis I would need for anything bigger than the 280 and specifically the 302 CATL @48v it would require a 6u rack chassis @21" deep. Which batteries are you installing in the chassis? How many Rack Units in height is this box? I didn't see a 6u on docans website.
Question sir . Aluminum compared to brass: amperage transfer on the contact patch between them and is there a difference between low amp draw and large draw ( heating changing possibly).
Hi Ray, thank you for your videos. Do you have news about modifications on these kits with your suggestions ? And what about the capacity test ?
What torque do you use to tighten all screws on the BMS special busbars ?
Ray get your affiliate links, bro you just missing out on money like I’m here ready to buy this box but now I had to go and look it up. You could’ve just made an easy 100 bucks off me.
@@slugzgaming5158 I make a commission if you contact Jenny Wu at jennywu896@gmail.com and tell her I sent you. I don’t do affiliate links because it is a rabbit hole that often creates a motive to promote products that you might not otherwise and it can lead some to question your information. My channel is for information so I lean towards that and not income.
Not 100$😂
Will do I will contact her. I just saw these vertical boxes that stand up on the wall they look awesome I want one.
Wonder why they provide the foam separators instead of the cutting board like separators. the foam would allow for unwanted expansion or deformation of the cells.
I also tapped my flexible copper busbars. Was easy and glad I did it for the reasons u explained. Never have to worry about them loosening up
The Eva seperate is meant not be firm..
It makes sure pressure is even on the cell
@@houseofancients from watching lithiumsolars videos I’d say that type of foam allows for the cells to deform at the electrodes due to not applying enough pressure at the electrodes due to that type of foams nature.
So you prefer the way I do it on my battery boxes.
I think I'm ok either way and I rather like the way the kit does it. I think the terminals can withstand some lateral force and the foam gives the excess force someplace to go compared to those that just push them up against each other with no restraint and then hope for the best.
Restraint or restraint with the EVA foam are both viable and workable solutions in my opinion. Based on watching the experience of others, no restraint and just letting them sit on a shelf is a bad idea.
I cringe when I see some of the ideas that get bandied about on the internet by people with an obvious lack of engineering aptitude.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff If there is no expansion allowed the pressure will be redirected in another direction, better let a small amount of expansion in the "natural" direction to prevent "un-natural" expansion which could be upwards against the top plate of the battery.
Could you put the link to jenny wu
The best way to reach her is directly at jennywu896@gmail.com
If you purchased bolt on battery connector for the front of the box, please provide a link to them.
Also what torque do you use to tighten the nuts for the battery terminals?
Thanks
6nm
it is really cool to DIY something by self, which really inspire me when you make something on my hand.
And Sir, if you need battery later, maybe we can have a talk, i am the battery and module seller.
How would I connect inverter to the batter box? Bolt / screw or special terminal?
Can you help me understand how to terminate the 1/0 cable in the plug to connect the battery to the inverter? Am I supposed to crimp it? I think so, but I’m just not sure
I’m sorry but I’m confused as to what you are asking. Plug?
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff my kit came with a plug in lieu of a ring terminal to secure on outside of case. Like on the positive and negative lug on the outside of case. Unfortunately I don’t see where to attach a pic of what I’m talking about.
@@willardwilliams2668 oh, how nice. Yes crimp away.
If the bms wire connectors are put under the busbars, instead of the top, they will get a compression fit and the nuts will still bite into the busbars. But, think I may like your way better anyway.
On a battery terminal you always put the highest current connection first and if you have others they stack in decreasing current order. The little tiny bms ring terminals will interfere with the high currents between the battery and the bus bar. Never do that.
Heya, use some locktight to secure the srews I like the idea with the pcb for the sensor leeds going to the bush bars. and instead of wire they use copper rods that's pretty nice. I like it would I bay it.... I have 2 right hand for my self I think I would bild it my self in a hard plasic box instead of metal or wood
Two concerns with plastic boxes is the difficulty in making secure connections and the generally weaker structure of most plastic enclosures.
Super ❤👍
Hi. I like your presentation and I consider to buy such a kit as the price of the formed units does not justify anymore. The build quality of the box is ok? The BMS is ok (48200-1101-10E)?
I want the DIY box for Romania (from Cassie Zhang, I assume).
Contact Jenny Wu at jennywu896@gmail.com
Hello there, any idea how this bms works with only 150mV passive balancing current? Are You able to set ovp/ocp/lvp etc?
With good cells it works fine. Parameters are adjustable.
Hi Ray, I really appreciate your work. Out of respect to you ; you are the Bob Ross of DIY battery builds. I am building my first unit - starting small 4s 280ah 12v battery for 5th wheel. I bought cells from Jenny Wu. Looking for required extra components: case, BMS, digital display, wires and connectors, and you mentioned a breaker? Am I missing anything? Thanks again.
Look for my video about building my DIY solar generator. There is even a playlist. You can make it as simple or complex as you wish.
@Ray Builds Cool Stuff - Can you tell us which drill / tap brand you have found on Amazon that is of decent quality? I'm guessing you have went through a few of them and have found the one that seems best. Thanks!
drilling and tapping copper is very easy to do, but the threads aren't very strong, and it's easy to get loose threads if drilling and tapping by hand. It is best done on a milling machine or a quality drill press (one without much or any wiggle in the head). Better yet is to put a nut on the bottom side of the copper bus bar.
Ray, great vids, is it necessary to add a active balancer like JK on this system ? Thank you.
Ps : Yes, I subscribed to your channel!
With good cells I don’t think it is necessary and the overall capacity of the battery being substantially limited would be the only reason I would consider one and I would first consider swapping weak cells into weaker batteries.
Hey Ray nice video. Those kits look very similar to what Seplos offers I believe. Any thoughts on the BMS that came with the kit? Chance to set it up etc.? Thanks!
Can’t tell the difference. Surely the same factory.
Can you ask them to add a option to change the battery post to a bolt on post?, for those that make there own battery to battery cables
Thanks
I would but after using them, I really like them and they are available on Amazon.
👍
links every one shows this yet not a 1 link.
I let everyone know to contact Jenny Wu at jennywu896@gmail. com
What's Jenny's normal response time? Sent an email a few days ago, but now response yet. Thanks!
@@nickvespa67 it is my understanding that they are on holiday until Friday of this week. I’m not sure what the holiday is but it runs from the 29th to the 6th. I’m surprised you haven’t heard from her because she usually works at night and while on holiday.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff Thanks, Ray. Jenny contacted me later this morning. All good!
Love Docan power and I like that they are offering these boxes! How long did it take you to assemble this unit? I'm thinking about recommending off grid systems to friends who like my own and having them hire me to install the batteries and commission the system for them. These battery boxes seem like a great budget conscious solution that offer safety and longevity in addition to lots of amp hours!
Take your time and it would be about two hours. Once you know what you’re doing it would be a little over an hour probably.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuffthank you!
Hey Ray! Do you know if these bms / batteries can be stacked in parallel? Like getting double energy content? Thank you!
Yes, absolutely.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff thanks a lot for your fast answer!
wait a minute!!! the boot was on the other foot last video.....
Nope! Right ankle funny man.
Ray may I ask if you ever do additional contract with Docan or do you go with all that Jenny and Alibaba provides?
Cobtrawith must be a typo. What did you mean to ask?
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff corrected :) cheers
@@sieciehmy contracts are with Docan but my contact is only with Jenny and the transactions are run through Alibaba. Jenny protects me with her honesty and is my advocate throughout the transaction. I continue to work with her and it is always an enjoyable experience.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff excellent thanks Ray, that's how it should be
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff Ray sorry one more thing, did you also transfer money to Singapore when paying for orders with Jenny?
good points man
Hi Ray great video again at 18 mins 16 Seconds could you use a spring washer as well as the toothed nut, or might that complicate matters? Also are you using Carbon Paste on this build as in yours?
I keep it simple and yes you can see the paste in the video and I describe the tool I made to apply it.
UA-cam hint: if you just put 18 {colon} 16 for 18 mins 16 secs like 18:16 then youtube will automatically make it a link into the video. Handy!
You must use flexible Busbar it good for it
What evidence supports this claim? I have looked for failures related to this claim but haven’t found them.
You should tape down the temperature sensors.
Ok, why do you think so?
love your video, could you comment on the cost of this box and the batteries? I am trying to get pricing on this, I have asked Jenny already, you mentioned $700 which does not seem right, please confirm, thanks
Why does it not seem right? Where are you located?
Oh maybe I understand. It is the box and BMS that are 700$. The cells are additional to that.
thanks for the quick response, I have asked Jenny to also quote for the cells :)@@RayBuildsCoolStuff
Hi Ray love the videos. I just purchased cells from Jenny Wu (told her referred by yourself) and want to top balance with a cheap amazon power supply. Does the power supply reduce amps as the battery charges or does it remain constant and need to be managed manually. Newbie to this sort of thing. Ps Jenny was v😊ery good and the cells were well packaged
All of the power supplies that I have used reduce the amperage as the target voltage is approached. I don’t know of any that do not have that behavior. My tester, the EBC A40 L, will maintain the amperage up to the target voltage before reducing.
You still want to keep an eye on your top balancing set up. Once you reach the target voltage you want to disconnect. The voltage goes up really quickly towards the end. Once you get up into the 3.5 V range it will not take long before you’re done.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff thanks the the quick response, the cells arrived at 3.6v. Should I do a capacity test and then top balance or use the bms to top balance instead
when you buy batteries from the USA warehouse do they charge you an Alibaba trade assurance fee?
Jenny told me I would be charged the fee.
yes I pay the fee.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff Why is there a Alibaba fee when we are buying cells from a USA based warehouse?
@@stevenfrazier8939 you are buying from a Chinese company through Alibaba. Where their warehouse is located, does not affect the fact that you are buying from a Chinese company through Alibaba. If you were buying from a US based company, the price you pay would be substantially higher. The Alibaba fee, that you pay is a level of protection, for the fact that you are ordering from a foreign-based company. US courts don’t protect you from business transactions that might go south if the company is based abroad. This is no different than whether or not you are doing business with a company from say Holland. if you just do a wire transfer to a company in Holland and they don’t send you the product, what court will you file a lawsuit in? That is why when you do business abroad, you seek protections for the transaction. Alibaba offers that service for a fee. Whether or not that protection is adequate is another question. Sometimes it is and sometimes it is not. Adding another layer of protection by using a credit card is a wise move. Sometimes the conflict resolution has to do with a simple misunderstanding over expectations. Alibaba offers a written contract that sets out expectations. This is not a free service.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff Thank you for explaining it. In the early 2000's I used to buy satellite equipment through Alibaba and wire transfers. I wanted to avoid that process if I could. I did not know they were involved it this way in the USA. I will be getting 48 - 64 cells and wanted it to go smoothly.
A stop nut on the cell terminal would work better mechanically than the serated nuts - IMO. Then you could attach your cell voltage sensor wire to the terminal stud without the nut loosening.
Hi, I am a little bit curious how you prevent destruction of your house with LFP battery pack. Suppose you have 16 cells in 2 rows. And you do not have 16 temps sensors and you do not have thermal camera and all 16 cells in the field of view. Suppose on of 8 cells in a row undergo thermal runaway and starts to produce H2, C2H2, C2H4, CH4 and other flammable gases. THis kind of cells can produce few thousands litres of gases. How you prevent chain reaction from cell to cell ? If concentration of this gases is high enough in your room and something ignate this gases, fire or explosition is here. As proof, you can find a few houses in EU destroyed from LFP battery this summer. In our region we have some standards: IEC 62619 / IEC 62620 / IEC 63056 / VDE-AR-E 2510-50 / JIS 8715-1/
UL 9540A / IEC 60335-1 / EC 60335-2-29 / IEC 62109-1 / IEC 61000-3-2 etc. But your battery is not built compatible with this standards.
Lfp is not prone to thermal runaway regardless of a few anecdotes. I feel comfortable with my batteries. The home system is in a separate building. The rv system is monitored for smoke and CO.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff HI, thanks, this is good solution to have LFP outside the house in good ventilated place. But owners of destroyed houses know, that LFP are more dangerous to NMC or NCA, becuase produce 2times more H2, which is explosive, and this was cause of complete destruction of this houses with thick brick walls.
when you talk about the price of that box order it from chins i can ger there for under 200 dollars if you talk about heat in the box you have aomething not right ether battery bad or you have a short i have the boxs and only time heat show up when your over charged the battery from to long time on charger the battery well usely charged to 53v not over then 55 v at the top then yje box well be warm
I am using EEL DIY kit with Seplo BMS and they supply flexible busbars
How much was that box and where did you get it?
Hey Ray, I followed you and bought 8 100AH batteries from Jenny and they aren't working so wonderful. As the sun goes down the voltage drops from 3.45v to 3.31v and I've messaged her and is like my messages goes unread and unanswered. I've even message her just since this week and she has been on whatsapp but still ignored my messages from last year and recently.
This is normal behavior for lifepo4. When my cells that test above capacity sit fully charged the voltage drops into the 3.3** range and settles there. You can’t determine state of charge by voltage like you can with lead acid.
@RayBuildsCoolStuff what can be done to make the battery stay up at 3.45v because it seems like I'm not getting the most out of the battery when it drop to 3.31v, that's almost soom time to be in the cut off voltage, if you can advice me what to do please do so. Please and thanks.
@@UNLOCKCONNECTIONS read up on the charge curve of Lifepo4. With this chemistry the voltage drops off into the 3.3 range very quickly while the state of charge can still be near 100%. As the battery is depleted the voltage stays in a very narrow range of 3.3-3.2 volts until it is almost completely depleted and then drops quickly until the BMS cuts off the battery at 2.5 Volts. It then rises back into the 2.7 range even before charging occurs. Again, voltage is not how we determine capacity or state of charge.
@RayBuildsCoolStuff yeah I know voltage is not how you determine the capacity but even the AH doesn't stay up. I've seeing it's at 57AH at 3.31v, just the other day, July 2t, 2023 to be exact, I've even screen shot a pic of the bms and sent to jenny but as I said she's ignoring my messages
Morning Ray, it is looking good. Aluminium works o.k. Aluminium tapping works good for me.
So Ray how you doing? Have not seen much from you for a while, mate.
I’m really doing amazing. Lots of opportunities for great life experiences. The problem is it gets in the way of doing the things that I make videos about. In order to do the things that I would typically make a video about it requires me to prioritize those things over the fantastic activities that I’m getting to be a part of right now. I feel kind of bad about that and I’m going to be getting back into it eventually but things keep coming up one after the other. Thank you for checking in on me and I appreciate all your support over the last two years.
@@RayBuildsCoolStuff It o.k. mate. I am out detecting today for gold again. So I know hobbies get in the way. lol Have a great week.