“You can also...”. Those three words are one reason I appreciate RK videos. “But we don’t have one of those.” is another. Rex has a mind that goes in many directions. “Pretty [darn] great!” is yet another statement that any woodworker wants to say.
Rex Krueger: I'm an old hand at woodworking. Not quite a master. Although some claim I am. But I do enjoy your tuderals. You teach me how to teach and bring me back to my beginnings.
One of the best things about your videos is the innovative approach to problem solving, like turning a plane iron into a scraper! As a new woodworker, it's nice to see someone finding solutions that alleviate the "I don't have every single tool ever made" feeling you get walking into an entire universe of craftsmanship. Thanks for the video, Rex.
I agree, his approaches are so down to earth and practical! Gets frustrating when you're watching someone work wood and they pull out an expensive tool and inform you that you really do need this tool to complete the project. Rex is like, "yeah, there's an expensive tool that's built for this, but every wood tool is really just one or more chisels at the end of a handle, so here's something cheap that gets you 95% of the way there, then just use sandpaper and CA glue".
I really liked that you showed how to do this using mostly hand tools. Not everyone has a bunch of fancy power tools lying around and this is helpful to see how something can be made using simple/less expensive tools that non-workers might have at home already.
Watched this video 4 times as I’m in the midst of making this, though I’m not using all hand tools, I used table saw to break down the 2x4 and used a hole saw to make the tenons. I really enjoyed using the plane to shape the legs. Having a lot of fun. I love your videos!
I've started doing the same thing, but got the fresh idea of growing the trees in my yard over the last 25 years or so... and now I'm reaping these trees... one or two of the trees have been drying for the last year or so... as i cut them down last spring. I had them cut up into sections with a chain saw... i was going to use a band saw to do the rips, but then decided to rip them with a hand saw... it's more of a journey than a destination... but good exercise and a bit of fun. so far I've only gotten a few 2x4's out of this... but have lost about 20 lbs. =D
I am impressed that you made a really nice stool out of a Douglas Fir 2x4. Well done. Douglas Fir is a pleasure to work with and has a great strength-to-weight ratio. It is also quite durable and attractive. I think I am going to make one of these, too. In my experience, I have learned to avoid 2x4s of ANY kind when I can, other than for carpentry. Another good way to go is to use Douglas Fir or Southern Yellow Pine in larger dimensions. I tend to buy these in 12' or 16'' lengths . Sixteen foot 2 x 12s are the best because they come from the best trees, lumber wise, and big box stores will cut them to length as you ask, if necessary for transport. The key here is not the length but rather the width. Whatever length boards you have, rip them into approximate thirds along the grain -- whatever fraction yields the best wood after you examine the end grain of each board. If the boards are too long for easy ripping, just cut them oversize for the length of your project parts and then rip them. Then you can use the outer thirds as leg stock and the inner third as seat stock or secondary wood. The outer thirds will yield nearly quarter-sawn stock while the inner thirds will look like your average 2x4. It costs a bit more up front for the extra width, for sure, but typically not more per board foot. However, but the quality of the wood you get will be much, much better. It will be both more attractive and and more stable. Typically, 2x4 dimensional lumber is cut from smaller, less desirable trees, so it contains a very high percentage of heart wood -- which is why (1) most 2x4s are pretty crappy, and (2) these can be less desirable for most furniture projects. Using 2x12s or 2x16s allows one to cut away the heartwood and maximize the rift-sawn / quarter-sawn yield from the outer edges of each board. Buying dimensional lumber in 12' or 16' lengths also makes it easier to cut around serious knots or other defects, because you have more board to work with from the start. All in all, this approach yields surprisingly little waste. Douglas Fir is a great wood for small boxes and chests, as well, so this also results in less waste, over all. (The knotty scraps make great-smelling firewood because they are full of resin.) For bigger projects, Southern Yellow pine is excellent -- it is very strong and hardens with age. (The knotty scraps also burn beautifully.) I prefer to rip wider dimensional lumber with a band saw. If I can't do that, I use a circular saw. The table saw is never my first option for this purpose, because these boards are usually a bit too warped to cut safely on a table saw, unless you are ripping a piece that is quite short-- 36" or less. Also, I recommend that you let the boards acclimatize to your shop for a while both before and after you rip them -- if this is an option. Once the boards have settled in to your shop climate, then you can dimension them according to the needs of your project. This is not always possible for the DIYer, but it is always a good idea. Consider these comments for what they are worth -- which is about half what you paid for them. Most importantly, I really like your videos, your recommendations, and your techniques. Thanks.
I just finished my stool based on this design. I chose to use a 2x8 douglass fir board which had the benefit of having fewer knots and not requiring a lamination to make the seat. The project turned out well.
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
As a hint on soft wood. A lot of time Hemlock is mixed in with Douglas Fir. The difference is Hemlock is tougher (I've bent a lot of nails). It also has as redder tint to it. Check it out.
Its known has Hem-Fir =Hem-Fir is a species combination of Western Hemlock and the true firs . So Hemlock is not mixed in like a board is just thrown into a unit of Fir. I worked in a Lumber yard for many a years and trust me there is different building codes between Fir and Hem-fir and around here Hem Fir is bottom end stuff.
@@WallyboisWoodworking I don't have Cascamite, but I have everything I need to complete this project, and I kind of like the idea of using the waste from the very wood that is that project.
I built it, even built a matching desk for my daughter to go with it, all out of the scraps from my workbench build. Thanks for the ideas, and sharing the tips and tricks that I would have fought with to figure out the little details.
Another tip for the brace and bit drill until you can just begin to feel the spiral tip just protrude from the underside. Then flip it and use that tiny hole to align the bit and start drilling. Saves using multiple tools.
The most common thing I've seen- and what I was taught about drilling with a bit and brace: once you see the snail start to poke through the other side, you back your bit out and go through the other side
That works for flat stock. but for round stock with a small diameter you run the risks of having the cutting spurs break through at the same time the snail pulls through.
Rex, you’re the man!! Outstanding build. I really enjoyed making this Modern Stool. I was impressed how stable it is (not surprising of the tripod design), but how sturdy it is. I was concerned with the angles drilled for the tenons, but was able to cut the stretchers to give me the rake and splay I was looking for. I used all hand tools except for drilling the mortises', it was just fun to make. The double tapered (well octagon tapered) legs with octagon faces give it a really modern wood-look. Finished it off with poly. It’s so refreshing to see you add new tips/tricks and sharing your years of know-how without the costly expensive tools. You are my hero. 3/3/2024
When I first started woodworking about 7yrs ago, I thought 2x4 material was only for construction and wouldn't make a good wood for many of the projects I did. One day on the lathe, I got bored and wanted to play around with some new tools. I was shocked at how clean and full of luster I was able to get out of a scrap 2x4! It's almost a secret that these evergreen types can just do anything you want no matter the skill level AND be cheap for any wallet.
I an old guy who is just starting out in woodworking. I love the videos and the lessons learned from them.Although my ultimate goal is to build a guitar these projects will get me more comfortable working with wood And I may get some new furniture as a plus lol
I've just checked chair making tools and found out about "rounders" or *rotary planes". They look so easy to make, and they would make for a great addition for your toolset considering you use tenons so much. Just make several of these for common sizes
Quick tip for you when gluing. Wood glue is slippery and trying to get it all leveled out when clamping is a grind so sprinkle some salt on the glued faced and they'll bind with no slipping.
Well, I do live in Doug Fir country. Watched a building being torn down a couple of months ago. The studs were straight grain no knots fir, and clear. Growth rings were maybe 1/16 inch apart. They tossed it all in the dump.... Criminal!
Rex, I really like your videos a lot!!! You could proudly subtitle this channel as "Woodworking for Cheap Bastards" as you share your great insight into buying tools from the internet and at garage sales at modest prices. Your advice for starting a home shop for $100 is very welcome compared to other channels that have space filled with high-priced power tools. I like the lane you've chosen and I appreciate your skill, teaching style and choice of historic and creative projects. I think you should go hybrid; some restorations, some power tools and lots of great tips laced with humor!
I love this channel! I found this a few weeks ago and have been binge-watching to catch up. I just started to do wood working in my small apartment. I plan to make small boxes mostly but also some furniture as it comes up. I have been buying and refurbishing old planes and saws from the local antique stores for a bargain. This channel is right up this alley. I have, in my attic, a set of mahogany coffee table legs and an unrelated bamboo coffee table top that I have been eye'ing for twenty plus years. They just need a little work and some elbow grease and I will have fantastic coffee table (that I will probably sell due to the size of my apartment LOL). To this end, when I got the bug to do woodworking, I remembered that I also had a 14 x 4 x 53 inch glue-lam beam in my attic from thirty plus years ago. I originally got this wood beam to make an assembly to produce single laser beam reflection holograms. It is a simple way to make holograms for amateurs but it is required to have a sturdy, solid wood beam platform. Anyway, I never did do the hologram thing but I kept the beam of wood. Instead, I plan to add some width to this wood beam and add some legs. In other words I was going to use this wood beam to "bootstrap" myself to having a comfortable workbench which includes the same beam. It didn't dawn on me originally to use this beam *as a bench* until I found your UA-cam channel with videos on the on the $30 workbench. This has changed my progress vastly for the win. I simply put two milk crates down under the wood beam and voila it is my beam-bench. I have a cheap vise attached at one long end and dog holes down the middle as needed. This allows me to plane surfaces flat and I can also bar clamp the piece vertically along the newly planed-square edge of the wood beam to work on the edges of longer pieces. I am now in the process of taking ordinary Douglas Fir lumber and planing it, ripping it and planing some more to glue-up the extensions to my workbench and eventually the legs and bottom shelf of my new bench. I have found this channel to be invaluable to my current progress. I look forward to becoming a patron very soon because I feel like I need to give back at least some for this great wealth of knowledge that I have gleaned from this channel. Also, I love the random humor. :-) We all need more humor in our lives. Thank you Rex. Keep the great content coming.
I love Douglas Fir! I'm mulling over different ideas I have for a simple bed frame, maybe something akin to a Craftsman or Shaker style. Excellent work!
I love it too! I buy 2x10s or 2x12 in long lengths and rip with my bandsaw. My last trip got a bunch of culls 2x10 x 12 with splits down the middle for $4 insead of $18. I'm cutting down the pith anyways.
Lovin this project Rex. Definitely will add to my to do list 😎. I made a farmhouse kitchen table out of entirely 100 yr old floorboards, I think were Douglas fir. This stool will look good alongside thanks.
I always find your videos inspiring! One note: at the Home Depots I usually go to (in Maryland), I don't generally see doug fir 2x4s, just the cheaper whitewood you mention. Generally the 2x4s are stamped S-P-F for "spruce-pin-fir" and are imported from Canada; you can easily tell the difference between these and Douglass Fir by the color and the smell, and sometimes the weight/denisity. At the same stores, 2x6 are usually available in both doug fir and whitewood, and 2x8 and wider are all doug fir. So that is to say, at some big box stores you might have to get 2x6s to get actual doug fir. I have found that the nearest Lowes to me has both kinds available in 2x4, but I have to drive past 2 Home Depots to get to Lowes, so I don't go there much.
You convinced me to go buy wood from home depot because of a previous build. I've never done that before and I didn't know what to do. I asked for help from a few employees but they also didn't know what to do, they tried and did their best. Somehow I ended up with a free piece of wood from it all. I hate to inform you I will not be attempting this build because I fear I am on their shoplifting watchlist
It looks great! I can see it is not as easy as it looks to make but you give a lot of great advice on how to make the more complicated parts. Thanks for sharing this.
If you study chair design you quickly learn that it was common for the seat to be a soft wood, or poplar - because that is where the bulk of the weight is - wanting to keep the chair's weight down. The legs, stretchers, spindles and back were commonly a hardwood for durability. I like the design. I am going to make one, albeit for more cost, from clear fir for the seat and cherry for the legs and stretchers. Will be a fun project.
Another bloody good video mate. Entertaining and your way of explaining everything makes the whole thing fun. Seeing your 'mistakes' admitted on film makes me feel a whole lot better about mine. Looking forward to the next one Rex
Good projects for the cut off bin as well, or the trash pile at local home building sites (I ask first). I need a stool, and have plenty of extra time lately.
Rex you're always right on and very professional. I love you and I hate you because you've given me yet another way to waste endless time, learning neat tricks while avoiding the work I really need to be doing. And the old-school-ness of these videos is delicious. Thanks. What?..Coming, dear... Now I'm going to actually go finish scraping and priming those damned steps.
The best quality construction lumber is usually 2x12s. The minimum investment is a bit more ($15/board in my area), but you get a lot of wood for that money.
Rex. This. Is. Awesome. You always have a unique out of the box approach... but making an entire almost-handbuilt stool from one 2x4 ... (I'm guessing 16ft) is awesome. Your trick to truing the bottom of the feet is awesome.
Thanks for these tutorials, Rex. I have everything I need to make this stool, although no bit brace. I hope the purists won't disapprove too much, but I'm going to resort to power tools in its place. I have mad respect for the bit brace, though. Don't get me wrong. I just don't own one atm. I'm going to rectify that oversight eventually. Until then, I love this stool, and I'm making it with what I've got. lol
Cool project, I may want to try it one day... but it looks a bit fiddly with all those tapers and angles. However, I really enjoyed you walking us through the process, a lot of good ideas for woodworking in general and useful for other projects. Thanks for posting!
I'm thinking about a specific detail: the DIRECTION of the cut to split the end of the stretchers for the wedges. Well, it seems to me that the line formed by that cut in the end of the stretcher must me PERPENDICULAR to the axis along the legs, so that when the wedges is inserted with pressure, the force in the (vertical) leg structure is in the up-down direction, that is, not in the left-right direction of the legs (which would weaken the leg, maybe cracking it). Thanks for the video!
You could, but then there's no guarantee that the holes are at the correct angles. You really want the legs installed when you measure the stretcher angles.
Absolutely love your channel, thanks for making great work and inspiring others to just start making with what they've got! Feels like America getting back to its roots and making great work with less, rather than using $10,000 worth of tools to make a $100 piece.
Man I wish I'd found this channel before I made the benchwork for my model railroad. Its pretty bad, but it's not gonna fall apart, and it's light enough for me to carry by myself (4x5 foot table (and I'm not a big dude)). Maybe I'll get a chance to build another one someday
I actually think tapering the base of the tenon where the legs meet the seat is a bad idea on this build. On a typical stool yes it will drive it down and make the leg stronger but since we are using pine it could increase the potential of the seat to split with added pressure over time. As you said, pine splits easier
Hi Just wanted to see how to build the workshop bench, and got hooked up your channel! Love it ! Interesting vice you have there , cast iron on the metal pole in the middle, why ? What's the purpose of this? How is done ? And what is it for?
Rex, just want to say thank you, your videos are literally all I'm watching currently whilst staying in. Would love to see your review/thoughts on using a Shinto rasp. Paul Sellers did a video on it, then bought one myself. It was as good as he said. In the meantime, keep up the sterling work my friend, you are a legend!!
I have a question/suggestion with regards to work benches. Would it make sense to build a workbench with a big plastic storage container mounted to its base for added mass that can still be emptied out if necessary? There's probably some good water container that would lie flat available from hardware stores. Alternatively, one could probably just combine a home-gym weight rack and their workbench. There's a few hobbyists whose home-gym shares space with their workshop. Just install a few round poles of the right diameter to the workbench, load it up with weight and add a clamp.
Hi Rex The first few cases of covid 19 have been discovered in my country and i think i will self isolate Thank you for still providing quality entertainment! Stay safe everyone!
Ugh, I thought I was getting to see the new video instead I'm teased with "Premieres in 6 hours" :P not that I have the tools to do the build or anything, these are just fun to watch :)
Whitewood is Spruce, redwood is Scots Pine. Whitewood is less dense, and a little stronger, but doesn't machine as well and resists finish. In construction you'd tend to use whitewood for first fix (studs, joists etc) and redwood for 2nd fix (skirting, dado rails, bannisters etc).
Cool design but maybe not all that "modern"after all! Got one back in the 1960's from a local woodworker, purported to be a replica of a bar stool from the Spouter Tavern at Mystic Seaport. Seat was rather more crescent shaped and sloped back about 10 degrees but otherwise, spot on. Brings back memories and now I'll have to build a couple!
"My job here is to make the dumb mistakes so you don't have to." Thank you sir, you do great work and explain and do stuff to make it look real
“You can also...”. Those three words are one reason I appreciate RK videos. “But we don’t have one of those.” is another. Rex has a mind that goes in many directions. “Pretty [darn] great!” is yet another statement that any woodworker wants to say.
Could not agree more with this comment! 🙌🏽
Rex Krueger: I'm an old hand at woodworking. Not quite a master. Although some claim I am. But I do enjoy your tuderals. You teach me how to teach and bring me back to my beginnings.
One of the best things about your videos is the innovative approach to problem solving, like turning a plane iron into a scraper! As a new woodworker, it's nice to see someone finding solutions that alleviate the "I don't have every single tool ever made" feeling you get walking into an entire universe of craftsmanship. Thanks for the video, Rex.
totally my pleasure!
I agree, his approaches are so down to earth and practical! Gets frustrating when you're watching someone work wood and they pull out an expensive tool and inform you that you really do need this tool to complete the project. Rex is like, "yeah, there's an expensive tool that's built for this, but every wood tool is really just one or more chisels at the end of a handle, so here's something cheap that gets you 95% of the way there, then just use sandpaper and CA glue".
You just summed up my whole philosophy!
I really liked that you showed how to do this using mostly hand tools. Not everyone has a bunch of fancy power tools lying around and this is helpful to see how something can be made using simple/less expensive tools that non-workers might have at home already.
Watched this video 4 times as I’m in the midst of making this, though I’m not using all hand tools, I used table saw to break down the 2x4 and used a hole saw to make the tenons. I really enjoyed using the plane to shape the legs. Having a lot of fun. I love your videos!
I've started doing the same thing, but got the fresh idea of growing the trees in my yard over the last 25 years or so... and now I'm reaping these trees... one or two of the trees have been drying for the last year or so... as i cut them down last spring. I had them cut up into sections with a chain saw... i was going to use a band saw to do the rips, but then decided to rip them with a hand saw... it's more of a journey than a destination... but good exercise and a bit of fun. so far I've only gotten a few 2x4's out of this... but have lost about 20 lbs. =D
Awesome, I dream of doing that. Glad your plans are working out for you
I am impressed that you made a really nice stool out of a Douglas Fir 2x4. Well done. Douglas Fir is a pleasure to work with and has a great strength-to-weight ratio. It is also quite durable and attractive. I think I am going to make one of these, too.
In my experience, I have learned to avoid 2x4s of ANY kind when I can, other than for carpentry. Another good way to go is to use Douglas Fir or Southern Yellow Pine in larger dimensions. I tend to buy these in 12' or 16'' lengths . Sixteen foot 2 x 12s are the best because they come from the best trees, lumber wise, and big box stores will cut them to length as you ask, if necessary for transport. The key here is not the length but rather the width.
Whatever length boards you have, rip them into approximate thirds along the grain -- whatever fraction yields the best wood after you examine the end grain of each board. If the boards are too long for easy ripping, just cut them oversize for the length of your project parts and then rip them. Then you can use the outer thirds as leg stock and the inner third as seat stock or secondary wood. The outer thirds will yield nearly quarter-sawn stock while the inner thirds will look like your average 2x4. It costs a bit more up front for the extra width, for sure, but typically not more per board foot. However, but the quality of the wood you get will be much, much better. It will be both more attractive and and more stable.
Typically, 2x4 dimensional lumber is cut from smaller, less desirable trees, so it contains a very high percentage of heart wood -- which is why (1) most 2x4s are pretty crappy, and (2) these can be less desirable for most furniture projects. Using 2x12s or 2x16s allows one to cut away the heartwood and maximize the rift-sawn / quarter-sawn yield from the outer edges of each board. Buying dimensional lumber in 12' or 16' lengths also makes it easier to cut around serious knots or other defects, because you have more board to work with from the start.
All in all, this approach yields surprisingly little waste. Douglas Fir is a great wood for small boxes and chests, as well, so this also results in less waste, over all. (The knotty scraps make great-smelling firewood because they are full of resin.) For bigger projects, Southern Yellow pine is excellent -- it is very strong and hardens with age. (The knotty scraps also burn beautifully.)
I prefer to rip wider dimensional lumber with a band saw. If I can't do that, I use a circular saw. The table saw is never my first option for this purpose, because these boards are usually a bit too warped to cut safely on a table saw, unless you are ripping a piece that is quite short-- 36" or less.
Also, I recommend that you let the boards acclimatize to your shop for a while both before and after you rip them -- if this is an option. Once the boards have settled in to your shop climate, then you can dimension them according to the needs of your project. This is not always possible for the DIYer, but it is always a good idea.
Consider these comments for what they are worth -- which is about half what you paid for them.
Most importantly, I really like your videos, your recommendations, and your techniques. Thanks.
Bruh you wrote a book instead of a comment but I do agree
I got writers cramp just readin his comment 😂
I tried but couldn't read your whole comment. But, yes, great advice.
Fuckin' Jerry.
Great bunch of knowledge passed along here (for free). Good tips on buying longer/wider boards since they come from “better” trees. 👍
I just finished my stool based on this design. I chose to use a 2x8 douglass fir board which had the benefit of having fewer knots and not requiring a lamination to make the seat. The project turned out well.
I absolutely love how down to earth you are with your woodworking. You really inspire me in my own work. Thanks Rex
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
"Relax." You know, most of the time when people say that, they're being rude. You made me feel relaxed!
With the price of lumber in 2021 it should be called "build this stool out of a single 2x4 for under $75"
As a hint on soft wood. A lot of time Hemlock is mixed in with Douglas Fir. The difference is Hemlock is tougher (I've bent a lot of nails). It also has as redder tint to it. Check it out.
Its known has Hem-Fir =Hem-Fir is a species combination of Western Hemlock and the true firs . So Hemlock is not mixed in like a board is just thrown into a unit of Fir. I worked in a Lumber yard for many a
years and trust me there is different building codes between Fir and Hem-fir and around here Hem Fir is bottom end stuff.
That trick with the plane blade as a scraper was excellent. I won't forget it.
Excellent video. I appreciate people that can overcome problems without having to spend a months salary on specialized, job specific tools. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
If at first your joints don't fit.
Fill e'm up with glue and s**t.
I thought you had to acquit...?
Cascamite is best for that!
@@WallyboisWoodworking I don't have Cascamite, but I have everything I need to complete this project, and I kind of like the idea of using the waste from the very wood that is that project.
I built it, even built a matching desk for my daughter to go with it, all out of the scraps from my workbench build. Thanks for the ideas, and sharing the tips and tricks that I would have fought with to figure out the little details.
The ideal confluence of form, function and aesthetics while keeping it simple. Lovely stool.
Another tip for the brace and bit drill until you can just begin to feel the spiral tip just protrude from the underside. Then flip it and use that tiny hole to align the bit and start drilling. Saves using multiple tools.
The most common thing I've seen- and what I was taught about drilling with a bit and brace: once you see the snail start to poke through the other side, you back your bit out and go through the other side
Yup - the one issue here is that due to the taper, the 'sides' of the bit may break through before the snail...
I love people who say things so I don't have to.
That works for flat stock. but for round stock with a small diameter you run the risks of having the cutting spurs break through at the same time the snail pulls through.
Oh duh of course. Dont mind me
Rex, you’re the man!! Outstanding build. I really enjoyed making this Modern Stool. I was impressed how stable it is (not surprising of the tripod design), but how sturdy it is. I was concerned with the angles drilled for the tenons, but was able to cut the stretchers to give me the rake and splay I was looking for. I used all hand tools except for drilling the mortises', it was just fun to make. The double tapered (well octagon tapered) legs with octagon faces give it a really modern wood-look. Finished it off with poly. It’s so refreshing to see you add new tips/tricks and sharing your years of know-how without the costly expensive tools. You are my hero. 3/3/2024
When I first started woodworking about 7yrs ago, I thought 2x4 material was only for construction and wouldn't make a good wood for many of the projects I did. One day on the lathe, I got bored and wanted to play around with some new tools. I was shocked at how clean and full of luster I was able to get out of a scrap 2x4! It's almost a secret that these evergreen types can just do anything you want no matter the skill level AND be cheap for any wallet.
They are amazing for turning practice and for some real turning, too!
Good to see a wood worker that use affordable tools thx Rex
I an old guy who is just starting out in woodworking. I love the videos and the lessons learned from them.Although my ultimate goal is to build a guitar these projects will get me more comfortable working with wood And I may get some new furniture as a plus lol
Yet another beautiful piece of craftsmanship thanks rex .as they say don't work hard work smart. Best wishes from Ireland to you and yours .
Many thanks!
I've just checked chair making tools and found out about "rounders" or *rotary planes".
They look so easy to make, and they would make for a great addition for your toolset considering you use tenons so much. Just make several of these for common sizes
Quick tip for you when gluing. Wood glue is slippery and trying to get it all leveled out when clamping is a grind so sprinkle some salt on the glued faced and they'll bind with no slipping.
Just started work on this chair last night. I also have my eye on that english joiners bench.
This channel is great!
Well, I do live in Doug Fir country. Watched a building being torn down a couple of months ago. The studs were straight grain no knots fir, and clear. Growth rings were maybe 1/16 inch apart. They tossed it all in the dump.... Criminal!
Check out the saw rasp for this kind of work as well. That tool has been indispensable in my shop.
Rex, I really like your videos a lot!!! You could proudly subtitle this channel as "Woodworking for Cheap Bastards" as you share your great insight into buying tools from the internet and at garage sales at modest prices. Your advice for starting a home shop for $100 is very welcome compared to other channels that have space filled with high-priced power tools. I like the lane you've chosen and I appreciate your skill, teaching style and choice of historic and creative projects. I think you should go hybrid; some restorations, some power tools and lots of great tips laced with humor!
I love this channel! I found this a few weeks ago and have been binge-watching to catch up. I just started to do wood working in my small apartment. I plan to make small boxes mostly but also some furniture as it comes up. I have been buying and refurbishing old planes and saws from the local antique stores for a bargain. This channel is right up this alley.
I have, in my attic, a set of mahogany coffee table legs and an unrelated bamboo coffee table top that I have been eye'ing for twenty plus years. They just need a little work and some elbow grease and I will have fantastic coffee table (that I will probably sell due to the size of my apartment LOL).
To this end, when I got the bug to do woodworking, I remembered that I also had a 14 x 4 x 53 inch glue-lam beam in my attic from thirty plus years ago. I originally got this wood beam to make an assembly to produce single laser beam reflection holograms. It is a simple way to make holograms for amateurs but it is required to have a sturdy, solid wood beam platform. Anyway, I never did do the hologram thing but I kept the beam of wood.
Instead, I plan to add some width to this wood beam and add some legs. In other words I was going to use this wood beam to "bootstrap" myself to having a comfortable workbench which includes the same beam. It didn't dawn on me originally to use this beam *as a bench* until I found your UA-cam channel with videos on the on the $30 workbench. This has changed my progress vastly for the win. I simply put two milk crates down under the wood beam and voila it is my beam-bench. I have a cheap vise attached at one long end and dog holes down the middle as needed. This allows me to plane surfaces flat and I can also bar clamp the piece vertically along the newly planed-square edge of the wood beam to work on the edges of longer pieces.
I am now in the process of taking ordinary Douglas Fir lumber and planing it, ripping it and planing some more to glue-up the extensions to my workbench and eventually the legs and bottom shelf of my new bench.
I have found this channel to be invaluable to my current progress. I look forward to becoming a patron very soon because I feel like I need to give back at least some for this great wealth of knowledge that I have gleaned from this channel. Also, I love the random humor. :-) We all need more humor in our lives.
Thank you Rex. Keep the great content coming.
And behold the master of paragraphs haha but anyway nice comment 👍
I love Douglas Fir! I'm mulling over different ideas I have for a simple bed frame, maybe something akin to a Craftsman or Shaker style.
Excellent work!
Some of my favorite styles!
I love it too! I buy 2x10s or 2x12 in long lengths and rip with my bandsaw. My last trip got a bunch of culls 2x10 x 12 with splits down the middle for $4 insead of $18. I'm cutting down the pith anyways.
Many thanks Rex, stay safe.
Thank you, I will
Modest, amazing craftsman. Good traits for any human.
Lovin this project Rex. Definitely will add to my to do list 😎. I made a farmhouse kitchen table out of entirely 100 yr old floorboards, I think were Douglas fir. This stool will look good alongside thanks.
11:08 is holy advice - thank you for sharing rex!
The small drill bit as a guide for the brace and bit is genius! I'll be using this!
I always find your videos inspiring! One note: at the Home Depots I usually go to (in Maryland), I don't generally see doug fir 2x4s, just the cheaper whitewood you mention. Generally the 2x4s are stamped S-P-F for "spruce-pin-fir" and are imported from Canada; you can easily tell the difference between these and Douglass Fir by the color and the smell, and sometimes the weight/denisity. At the same stores, 2x6 are usually available in both doug fir and whitewood, and 2x8 and wider are all doug fir. So that is to say, at some big box stores you might have to get 2x6s to get actual doug fir. I have found that the nearest Lowes to me has both kinds available in 2x4, but I have to drive past 2 Home Depots to get to Lowes, so I don't go there much.
The year is 2021 (until next week, when it's 2022). Price of a Doug fir 8 foot 2x4 is $6.75.
nice to see someone working with hand tools
You convinced me to go buy wood from home depot because of a previous build. I've never done that before and I didn't know what to do. I asked for help from a few employees but they also didn't know what to do, they tried and did their best. Somehow I ended up with a free piece of wood from it all. I hate to inform you I will not be attempting this build because I fear I am on their shoplifting watchlist
I'm sorry it went that way for you. FWIW, I find Lowes more helpful.
plane iron to "curved scrapper" and back to plane iron is the most innovative thing I've seen all year
It looks great! I can see it is not as easy as it looks to make but you give a lot of great advice on how to make the more complicated parts. Thanks for sharing this.
If you study chair design you quickly learn that it was common for the seat to be a soft wood, or poplar - because that is where the bulk of the weight is - wanting to keep the chair's weight down. The legs, stretchers, spindles and back were commonly a hardwood for durability. I like the design. I am going to make one, albeit for more cost, from clear fir for the seat and cherry for the legs and stretchers. Will be a fun project.
I like your style. Thanks for making these projects assessable to novice craftsmen such as myself.
Glad you like them!
Noticed all the flags in the background after you asked viewers to let you know where they live. That’s really great.
This was an awesome build! I’ve never made a chair of any kind but I’m definitely going to put these on my short list of simple furniture to build.
I love doug for its smell and the colour
10:50 that chair looks happy to see you
Another bloody good video mate. Entertaining and your way of explaining everything makes the whole thing fun. Seeing your 'mistakes' admitted on film makes me feel a whole lot better about mine. Looking forward to the next one Rex
Good projects for the cut off bin as well, or the trash pile at local home building sites (I ask first). I need a stool, and have plenty of extra time lately.
I always burnt the middle down with hot coals then just chiseled away at the burnt spots. Gave a really interesting appearance to the seat
You can use a 1"box end wrench too.
Rex you're always right on and very professional. I love you and I hate you because you've given me yet another way to waste endless time, learning neat tricks while avoiding the work I really need to be doing. And the old-school-ness of these videos is delicious. Thanks. What?..Coming, dear... Now I'm going to actually go finish scraping and priming those damned steps.
I'm glad I can help!! The steps will wait a little longer....
The best quality construction lumber is usually 2x12s. The minimum investment is a bit more ($15/board in my area), but you get a lot of wood for that money.
Rex. This. Is. Awesome. You always have a unique out of the box approach... but making an entire almost-handbuilt stool from one 2x4 ... (I'm guessing 16ft) is awesome. Your trick to truing the bottom of the feet is awesome.
Actually, just 8ft will get it done!
Thanks for these tutorials, Rex. I have everything I need to make this stool, although no bit brace. I hope the purists won't disapprove too much, but I'm going to resort to power tools in its place. I have mad respect for the bit brace, though. Don't get me wrong. I just don't own one atm. I'm going to rectify that oversight eventually. Until then, I love this stool, and I'm making it with what I've got. lol
"We all do it sometimes". Rex you absolutely kill me. :)
Cool project, I may want to try it one day... but it looks a bit fiddly with all those tapers and angles. However, I really enjoyed you walking us through the process, a lot of good ideas for woodworking in general and useful for other projects. Thanks for posting!
Great project Rex, thanks for sharing it.
I'm thinking about a specific detail: the DIRECTION of the cut to split the end of the stretchers for the wedges. Well, it seems to me that the line formed by that cut in the end of the stretcher must me PERPENDICULAR to the axis along the legs, so that when the wedges is inserted with pressure, the force in the (vertical) leg structure is in the up-down direction, that is, not in the left-right direction of the legs (which would weaken the leg, maybe cracking it).
Thanks for the video!
Really nice project. I think I will make six for my breakfast bar. Then I can make a breakfast bar to go with them!
Ha
I’ve got a small pile of 2x4’s and 2x6’s in my basement, they are leftovers from a remodel done in the 1960’s.
Should be just about dry & ready to use. They are probably true 2x6 too!
Think im gonna make one out of a 2x6 for $2 more to get a bigger seat.
Sounds like a plan. Or just use another 2x4.
@@RexKrueger There's more 2x4's available?
Sounds good to me, I'm teasing the scales at 300 lbs.
you might try pinch dogs. they're a traditional tool that cost pennies next to the expense of clamps.
Looks great! Could you have drilled your stretcher holes before tappering?
You could, but then there's no guarantee that the holes are at the correct angles. You really want the legs installed when you measure the stretcher angles.
Awesome guitar stool!
Absolutely love your channel, thanks for making great work and inspiring others to just start making with what they've got! Feels like America getting back to its roots and making great work with less, rather than using $10,000 worth of tools to make a $100 piece.
Would a forstner bit work better on the legs? Or maybe wrapping in masking tape to hold the fibers till the bit can shear them?
Both might help. For sure a problem to keep working on.
Man I wish I'd found this channel before I made the benchwork for my model railroad. Its pretty bad, but it's not gonna fall apart, and it's light enough for me to carry by myself (4x5 foot table (and I'm not a big dude)). Maybe I'll get a chance to build another one someday
I actually think tapering the base of the tenon where the legs meet the seat is a bad idea on this build. On a typical stool yes it will drive it down and make the leg stronger but since we are using pine it could increase the potential of the seat to split with added pressure over time. As you said, pine splits easier
Well, I've been using it daily for 3 years and it's fine, so I think tapering was the right move.
I didn't know sporks were so useful in chair making!
Hi
Just wanted to see how to build the workshop bench, and got hooked up your channel!
Love it !
Interesting vice you have there , cast iron on the metal pole in the middle, why ? What's the purpose of this? How is done ? And what is it for?
Rex, just want to say thank you, your videos are literally all I'm watching currently whilst staying in.
Would love to see your review/thoughts on using a Shinto rasp. Paul Sellers did a video on it, then bought one myself. It was as good as he said.
In the meantime, keep up the sterling work my friend, you are a legend!!
For the leg holes.... could you have used a spur bit for cleaner holes? And was pre-drilling the hole prior to tapering an option?
Awesome stool , Rex !!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have a question/suggestion with regards to work benches. Would it make sense to build a workbench with a big plastic storage container mounted to its base for added mass that can still be emptied out if necessary? There's probably some good water container that would lie flat available from hardware stores.
Alternatively, one could probably just combine a home-gym weight rack and their workbench. There's a few hobbyists whose home-gym shares space with their workshop. Just install a few round poles of the right diameter to the workbench, load it up with weight and add a clamp.
Better yet, ive seen people use a few sand bags draped over the legs. Each bag weighs about 80#
he can move stuff with his mind and move his fingers through the dimensional space force, and he has a nice smile and a cool stool.
This is so cool. Liked and subscribed straight away.
I'd be interested to know why you don't use a traditional pairing technique? i.e. using the chisel against your shoulder
Good job friend
Hi Rex
The first few cases of covid 19 have been discovered in my country and i think i will self isolate
Thank you for still providing quality entertainment!
Stay safe everyone!
Yeah, my family is already there. Stay safe!
That would make a amazing guitar playing stool!!
IT DOES!!! that's what I use it for!
Nice!! Its so hard to find something that is tall enough, and not to bulky..
Ugh, I thought I was getting to see the new video instead I'm teased with "Premieres in 6 hours" :P not that I have the tools to do the build or anything, these are just fun to watch :)
Come to the Premiere! Lots of people come. There's a live chat. It's a lot of fun. Promise.
You should buy a few basic tools.and start making these yourself
Its.alot of fun
great video, would the holes for the legs work if I use a 1 1/2 inch? or would the larger size hole create problems with the stool seat? thanks!
I LOVE your voice and your videos.
Enjoyed the making of the stool and found the outcome acceptable I won’t be making it as it’s not for me.
Kindest
Bob
England
Lovely job very nice l like it
Also a note on wood scraping. Broken glass makes a perfect scraper. That's what the old timers used, just don't cut yourself.
That's a good idea!
Great channel!! love it!!! keep up the amazing work!
What is "whitewood"? I've always assumed it was pine.
Whitewood is Spruce, redwood is Scots Pine. Whitewood is less dense, and a little stronger, but doesn't machine as well and resists finish. In construction you'd tend to use whitewood for first fix (studs, joists etc) and redwood for 2nd fix (skirting, dado rails, bannisters etc).
Nice job! Your whole series is inspiring and this one is just more of the same. Keep it up!
Cool design but maybe not all that "modern"after all! Got one back in the 1960's from a local woodworker, purported to be a replica of a bar stool from the Spouter Tavern at Mystic Seaport. Seat was rather more crescent shaped and sloped back about 10 degrees but otherwise, spot on. Brings back memories and now I'll have to build a couple!
Great project!
awesome
love it
Thank you! Cheers!
This is great! And there are so many ways to make variations. I was waiting for you to pull out a bodger's scorp lol
I'm gonna get there!
as woodworker i know that its possible, but well you did something that never pass for my mind
minute 7:53 awesome you solve most of the probles with math solutions
11.40 man master craftman would love the ingenious put on that chair
Beautiful job, Rex! Really nice! 😃
Stay safe there! 🖖😊