Over the last month I modified a few hardware and many software related things on the K1 printer - now it's even better value - and the very low price of 400€ / 423$ still works if you use my coupon code! 🛒Creality K1*: www.geekbuying.com/go/884inOGf Coupon Code⭐: NNNCREK1⭐ 🛒Creality K1 Max*: www.geekbuying.com/go/884inNin K1 MAX's coupon code is NNNCREK1MAX -699€ !!! These links are affiliate links - so they help my channel ❤ and don't cost you any extra! I share HONEST reviews and opinions! If you can support this idea please consider using my affiliate links or check my PATREON: bit.ly/2ESMtIO Check the video-description for all the infos regarding klipper and other tips!
I did the same. I picked up a k1 as soon as creality gave us access to unlocking the software. I rooted mine right away on the second day. I did jot like creality slicer. I am running stock clipper and use orca slicer now. Love it. I also printed a riser, door seal (made my own) and printed a nice tray as well. I was not worried about hinges. I also ordered and have now the newest extruder , hot end as mine came with v3 extruder and v1 nozzle. And installed the camera. You also have to update a few things like imput shaper details for printer to use x and y separately. I do have 0.6 and 0.8 nozzles and tried the 0.4 k1 max nozzle. The brassbone with metal insert. It works great with wood pla. But I also dried mine and it was ereyone pla. I do like yiu 3d print videos. I have been a sub for many many years. I used to fly quads and race. So it was nice to see your video pop up for 3d printing. I feel like a lot of fpv enthusiasts also like 3d printing.
Thanks for your long comment. I think I remember your nickname - which already once confused me with the "famous" AndyRC once ;) Yep, input-shaper fix is at the end of this vid. Not 100% sure if it improves my faster print quality yet ;) 3d printing and FPV / RC are similar hobbies. I also found that many FPVers have a direct computer background (lot of IT guys seem to fly). for 3d printing being a tech lover for sure helps as well ;)
There were several times when I thought Arnold Schwarzenegger was telling me about his 3D printer. 😂😂😂 Great video, I too have a new K1 & am having tons of fun with all its quirks.
Got K1 too, printed a lid riser and a usb dust cover so far, haven't played with the firmware yet. Current functionality does the job so far as I just got into 3d printing.
Fantastic, Mario! Thanks a bunch for all the tips! 😃 I still don't have a 3d printer, but that's the one I'm going to buy. This one or the Max version. Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊 And happy holidays!
3D printing became more of a hobby than FPV for me, and much like FPV it's only getting easier for people to get into. Now is a better time than any to learn. Happy holidays MC!
@@d3c0deFPV I bet it is! 😃 It won't be so soon, but 2024 is looking much better for me! And happy holidays to you as well, my friend! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, I just figured out how to use installer script after watching your vid. :D Reinstalled the latest mainsail now. I would recommend printing gap cover for door/screen gap too.
Great video. I was scared of the whole process and ssh into the firmware. You made the process simpler. As long as you didn’t miss any steps I’m excited to get all this functionality. What other mods did you do to your K1??
I hope I didn't skip anything important. I found it quite simple. maybe I didn't setup all the software pieces 100% right already. KAMP for example, It's installed but I don't know if it actually works (it's adaptive bed mesh leveling - where it only makes small bed meshes if you print small objects in the middle) lately I've been playing with the settings within orca to get the most out of it. for example: "avoid crossing walls" - this reduces stringing via software ;) or infill: "support cubic" - makes for more efficient infill
I will have to look this one up. I too have the impression that my bed on the K1 is pretty skewed and the bed levelling mesh has to work a lot during print to compensate this - for sure this will reduce quality and maybe speed... thanks for the tip!
looks amazing, the extra controls and camera are brilliant. i really need to have a look at clipper and see how hard it is to use it as a design tool, if i could just design stuff and then let the slicer decide how to print it would be cool but i suspect i have to at least understand printing and materials to get a good accurate design, and for that i would need a printer of my own to play with. my skills with a hot glue gun are kinda ridiculously good, i think i could do a boaty hehehe, im even at the stage were i design in fail points on my antenna holders so that if they get snapped in a crash, i can fix them in the field with a lighter and some burnt fingers hehehe
klipper is just the "language" the printer speaks to understand more complex commands (like a printer driver). slicers (orca) are really quite advanced and they do a lot of the thinking for you (auto placement, warnings, if you'd print to long bridges or if you want to print in the air - overhangs). they can create bio inspired "tree" supports to help with printing complex stuff. also the default settings of the slicer and material work quite well. the slicer in it's preview already shows you (step by step if you want) what the printhead would do - so it's good to "practise" without actual hardware. the thing where the fun started for me was: getting into 3d design (first tinkercad - free online) then onshape (also free). tinkercad is like a child toy (I think it's designed for kids in school), it's limiting you later on if you have exact measurements or if you want to do more advanced stuff, or change dimensions later. onshape is very professional, and if you want to get into it - it will take you some time, but check "teaching Tech" (an aussie 3d guy) he has GREAT tutorials! You already "bragged" with your hotglue skills ;) greets, Mario
After rooting i back to stock. Useless for me. Only benefit was direct printing from orca without saving file. Also screen doesnt work with fluidd as it does with stock. K1 is good enough, just slice n print. Only these load cells... How can i get rid of them? Like a boomer i prefere old Zstop
for me the screen works (but I use mainsail - don't think this makes much difference tho). I agree - K1 is good enough already on stock settings. what do you mean with load cells?
@@Rcschim maybe i rooted too early so i had negative experience. Also back then i was lucky to have bedmesh not working. Isnt this called "load cells"? That electronic thing which works almost like a tensionmeter to detect nozzle touching bed
@@wykonczeni ah, you talk about the new way to have bedmesh. I think they also call it "strain sensors" embedded in the bed. also on the Flashforge F5mpro which I just reviewed it works this way. And the FF5 has a perfect first layer!
Over the last month I modified a few hardware and many software related things on the K1 printer - now it's even better value - and the very low price of 400€ / 423$ still works if you use my coupon code!
🛒Creality K1*: www.geekbuying.com/go/884inOGf
Coupon Code⭐: NNNCREK1⭐
🛒Creality K1 Max*: www.geekbuying.com/go/884inNin
K1 MAX's coupon code is NNNCREK1MAX -699€ !!!
These links are affiliate links - so they help my channel ❤ and don't cost you any extra!
I share HONEST reviews and opinions! If you can support this idea please consider using my affiliate links or check my PATREON: bit.ly/2ESMtIO
Check the video-description for all the infos regarding klipper and other tips!
Did the same things here. Very happy Creality opened the code and made root easy for all.
I did the same. I picked up a k1 as soon as creality gave us access to unlocking the software. I rooted mine right away on the second day. I did jot like creality slicer. I am running stock clipper and use orca slicer now. Love it. I also printed a riser, door seal (made my own) and printed a nice tray as well. I was not worried about hinges. I also ordered and have now the newest extruder , hot end as mine came with v3 extruder and v1 nozzle. And installed the camera. You also have to update a few things like imput shaper details for printer to use x and y separately. I do have 0.6 and 0.8 nozzles and tried the 0.4 k1 max nozzle. The brassbone with metal insert. It works great with wood pla. But I also dried mine and it was ereyone pla. I do like yiu 3d print videos. I have been a sub for many many years. I used to fly quads and race. So it was nice to see your video pop up for 3d printing. I feel like a lot of fpv enthusiasts also like 3d printing.
Thanks for your long comment. I think I remember your nickname - which already once confused me with the "famous" AndyRC once ;)
Yep, input-shaper fix is at the end of this vid. Not 100% sure if it improves my faster print quality yet ;)
3d printing and FPV / RC are similar hobbies. I also found that many FPVers have a direct computer background (lot of IT guys seem to fly). for 3d printing being a tech lover for sure helps as well ;)
There were several times when I thought Arnold Schwarzenegger was telling me about his 3D printer. 😂😂😂 Great video, I too have a new K1 & am having tons of fun with all its quirks.
Got K1 too, printed a lid riser and a usb dust cover so far, haven't played with the firmware yet. Current functionality does the job so far as I just got into 3d printing.
Fantastic, Mario! Thanks a bunch for all the tips! 😃
I still don't have a 3d printer, but that's the one I'm going to buy. This one or the Max version.
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
And happy holidays!
3D printing became more of a hobby than FPV for me, and much like FPV it's only getting easier for people to get into. Now is a better time than any to learn. Happy holidays MC!
@@d3c0deFPV I bet it is! 😃
It won't be so soon, but 2024 is looking much better for me!
And happy holidays to you as well, my friend! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, I just figured out how to use installer script after watching your vid. :D
Reinstalled the latest mainsail now.
I would recommend printing gap cover for door/screen gap too.
Nice to hear that my video helped. I will consider that Gap cover, but I seldom print with closed top...
Great video. I was scared of the whole process and ssh into the firmware. You made the process simpler. As long as you didn’t miss any steps I’m excited to get all this functionality.
What other mods did you do to your K1??
I hope I didn't skip anything important. I found it quite simple. maybe I didn't setup all the software pieces 100% right already. KAMP for example, It's installed but I don't know if it actually works (it's adaptive bed mesh leveling - where it only makes small bed meshes if you print small objects in the middle)
lately I've been playing with the settings within orca to get the most out of it.
for example: "avoid crossing walls" - this reduces stringing via software ;)
or infill: "support cubic" - makes for more efficient infill
He literally just told you!
Don't own a Creality K1, but did find some good tips and interesting ideas.
wait for my next video then ;) preparing the review of the FalshForge 5mpro - even nicer than the K1 printer!
Thanks for sharing your video, I want to open up the Klipper on my Max, but haven't tried it yet, it still seems fairly deep...
You can do it ;)
great stuff, thanks for the tips.
Great printer, I had to do the „toothskipping“ to level the bed, otherwise it prints perfectly.
I will have to look this one up. I too have the impression that my bed on the K1 is pretty skewed and the bed levelling mesh has to work a lot during print to compensate this - for sure this will reduce quality and maybe speed... thanks for the tip!
Thank you!
looks amazing, the extra controls and camera are brilliant. i really need to have a look at clipper and see how hard it is to use it as a design tool, if i could just design stuff and then let the slicer decide how to print it would be cool but i suspect i have to at least understand printing and materials to get a good accurate design, and for that i would need a printer of my own to play with. my skills with a hot glue gun are kinda ridiculously good, i think i could do a boaty hehehe, im even at the stage were i design in fail points on my antenna holders so that if they get snapped in a crash, i can fix them in the field with a lighter and some burnt fingers hehehe
klipper is just the "language" the printer speaks to understand more complex commands (like a printer driver).
slicers (orca) are really quite advanced and they do a lot of the thinking for you (auto placement, warnings, if you'd print to long bridges or if you want to print in the air - overhangs).
they can create bio inspired "tree" supports to help with printing complex stuff.
also the default settings of the slicer and material work quite well.
the slicer in it's preview already shows you (step by step if you want) what the printhead would do - so it's good to "practise" without actual hardware.
the thing where the fun started for me was: getting into 3d design (first tinkercad - free online) then onshape (also free).
tinkercad is like a child toy (I think it's designed for kids in school), it's limiting you later on if you have exact measurements or if you want to do more advanced stuff, or change dimensions later.
onshape is very professional, and if you want to get into it - it will take you some time, but check "teaching Tech" (an aussie 3d guy) he has GREAT tutorials!
You already "bragged" with your hotglue skills ;) greets, Mario
I tried everything I can not figure it out
After rooting i back to stock. Useless for me. Only benefit was direct printing from orca without saving file. Also screen doesnt work with fluidd as it does with stock. K1 is good enough, just slice n print. Only these load cells... How can i get rid of them? Like a boomer i prefere old Zstop
for me the screen works (but I use mainsail - don't think this makes much difference tho). I agree - K1 is good enough already on stock settings.
what do you mean with load cells?
@@Rcschim maybe i rooted too early so i had negative experience. Also back then i was lucky to have bedmesh not working.
Isnt this called "load cells"? That electronic thing which works almost like a tensionmeter to detect nozzle touching bed
@@wykonczeni ah, you talk about the new way to have bedmesh. I think they also call it "strain sensors" embedded in the bed.
also on the Flashforge F5mpro which I just reviewed it works this way. And the FF5 has a perfect first layer!
The auto focus of your camera is very bad. It gave me headache after 3 minutes.
Sorry for that, I was so stupid. Had focus to center. Normally the Sony af is really good, but with wing settings it's almost as crappy as my gh5 ;)