I greased everything up really good. But I’ve never heard any squeaking especially over the exhaust. I’ve done burn out after burn out and punched it all over the city. No issues with anything
@davidanscomb2034 Nice..I was worried it might be a harsh ride on the street but I'd rather have the performance and yeah never hear anything over the 3inch exaust I'm running. Thanks for getting back
It could be different things. One thing could be missing or rotting out body mount bushings. Check your body mount’s forsure. I had to cut mine out and weld in new
Was supposed to get 90* fittings/hoses for rear brakes. Instead I got straight fitting AND straight hoses. I see you got straight as well. Ordered 90* off Amazon just incase. Did you run into issues with brake line off caliper hitting shocks?
@@davidanscomb2034 I think most places show you 90* fittings with either the fitting elbow or an elbow in the hose. I ordered from QP and got straight on both. That doesn’t work with viking coilovers
@@ChadFlanagan-fw1eh I just ordered one off eBay for Gbody’s. I had my old one and they were pretty much identical. It came with the filler neck attached to it and the only thing I had to do was bend it a little bit to get it to fit just right the filler neck that is. It fills up fine. I’ve never had any issue with it. The filler neck has breathing ports
I’m doing a ford 9” swap on my 1983 cutlass I’m putting 24s on it I wanted to shorten the rearend so the rims could be a little tucked I know stock is 58 inches how much should I narrow
I don’t know that one, i was going to do the same thing but i was worried about only being able to run the specific wheel and offset with a shorter rear end
I used the universal gbody wilwood ebrake kit for the rear. And the stock longer cable for the front I can make a video of it this weekend if it would be helpful
@@davidanscomb2034 I have a83 regal and I want to put 22's underneath with a stock ride height what the width of your rear axle ? And did you have to notch frame ?
Just got a rear end for my Cutlass from Trick Chassis. The disc brakes (w/parking brake) doesn’t want less than a 16” wheel. What size are those lovely factory looking wheels? I need info on those rear brake lines too.
Yes, i had one made at a company named “ inland trucking “ its here in the city. I did not stay with factory for two reasons 1) wanted it custom fit 2) everything else is new on car: transmission, rear end, suspension, fuel system etc. the old one had surface rust and 30 year old u-joints.
I just finished restoring the frame.. moving on to undercarriage to restore.. how did you get the body on the frame? I'm working with Jack's, jack stands and two 6x6 post
It’s not that bad however you have make sure you center it pretty much exactly where it was. Because when I put mine back down i had too shim the hell out of the back bumper because the body was about an inch to far back. I really noticed it and it was a struggle when I put the radiator core housing back, nothing warmed to line up as far as the front body panels. And i had to add washers as shims under radiator core to get it to mate up. Im sure you will run into the same problems just hit me up. I’ll make a video today about it for you
It was intense but I had six jack stands as far out on lips around the car. How I got my boards out was I used a harbor freight jack with the telescopic extension arms that swing out. And I use that in the front underneath the floor pan to raise the body out just enough to clear the boards. Then I slid them out and set it down on the six jackstands. I went around the back and did the same thing with another floor jack. Then I use those cheap harbor, freight wheel, dollies to wheel the frame back underneath it. Then I got the frame up on jackstands and put the floor jacks back onto the car again to move it around to line everything up while I set it down
@David Anscomb thank you! a vid would be so helpful my name is Ruben btw.. yeah I'm doing this all solo so it's kinda intense.. taking out wasn't so bad.. I slide the frame out to left.. I had all 4 jack stands within the frame
If you have extra weight in the trunk. You need a higher spring rate, not longer springs. The rear is sitting too far forward since the control arms swing in an arc. Horizontal is further back, pointing down is what happen to your car, too far forward.
I have heavier spring rates from Eaton. Also swapped out for adjustable upper and lower control arms . Then got a rear alignment. Now wheels are centered . I’ll update a video
@@davidanscomb2034 thank you I'm going g to be buying the same rearend in the next month or 2 I have a 88 monte carlo SS with a wicked 427 big block it's bored 60 over has AFR heads a Howard's hydraulic roller cam turbo 400 with a reverse manual valve body 3500 stall converter the motor made 661 hp on the dyno and 605 torque going to be a fun street car. I looked at the rearend a couple of months ago and it was around 2.200 dollars does that sound about right? Let me know thank you.
I didn't see any QA1 equipment. It's a Quick Performance 9in for G body and UMI arms. Cost will vary depending on the options you choose. I went with the Wilwood brake kit and powder coating. Mine come to a little over $2800.
Yes, and it was a bitch. I ordered a universal kit from wilwood and bought about four or five different front factory parking brake cables to make it lineup but then I had problems with the Ford 9 inch brake assembly off of the explorer. Some thing was getting in the way, so I had to take it to the shop and they disconnected one side.
@@davidanscomb2034 awesome, I’ll take em, I can cover shipping if you don’t mind shipping. I can even email you a shipping label if you want. And PayPal goods and services. Will be Thursday before I can send everything. I can send you my number.
I have the exact setup on my cutlass with the quick performance 9 but can’t get my pinion angle to kick up positive degrees before the uppers separate and fall
I got entire suspension set up but spooked to get drive shaft because I don’t want it to be too short or too long after they adjust everything. Probably do what you said and send it
Nice ride man, keep it up
Very clean! Thank you for sharing this valuable information
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the info, I'm about to do full UMI stage 4 suspension on 87 442. 👍🏁
Let me know if you have any questions that I can help you with and I can make a video because I’m still working on my stereo
How is the ride and noise on the street using the dbl adjustable non poly or rubber bushings? Great info
I greased everything up really good. But I’ve never heard any squeaking especially over the exhaust. I’ve done burn out after burn out and punched it all over the city. No issues with anything
@davidanscomb2034 Nice..I was worried it might be a harsh ride on the street but I'd rather have the performance and yeah never hear anything over the 3inch exaust I'm running. Thanks for getting back
Looks good my guy,I'm about to embark on that journey too
If you have questions let me know
Looks great bro. I'm wanting to do a disc brake conversion on my 87 Regal. But kind of iffy on doing the job myself 😮
I get that. Just be patient and take it step by step
Just subscribed keep dropping these vids
Can a bad rear trailing arm cause one side of the car to lean
It could be different things. One thing could be missing or rotting out body mount bushings. Check your body mount’s forsure. I had to cut mine out and weld in new
Yes it will
Great info u gave I have a 1984 Monte Carlo SS I wanna do frame off on
Hit me up if you have questions on anything. I will make a video for you.
those spherical ends seem to be screwed out almost to the end. how much is in the pipe?
Was supposed to get 90* fittings/hoses for rear brakes. Instead I got straight fitting AND straight hoses. I see you got straight as well. Ordered 90* off Amazon just incase. Did you run into issues with brake line off caliper hitting shocks?
Yes i kept buying shocks until I found some that worked and I made some custom brackets at the welding shop
You would think for the money that would be a better fit
@@davidanscomb2034 I think most places show you 90* fittings with either the fitting elbow or an elbow in the hose. I ordered from QP and got straight on both. That doesn’t work with viking coilovers
Sweet Cutlass….
I also in the Umi control arms .. i didnt see any issues. I do have a Monte Carlo SS .. maybe there is a slight diffrence
Might be a combination of things, like location of my body back on frame. 🤷
What fuel tank are you using did it have the filler neck? And how does it fill up?
@@ChadFlanagan-fw1eh I just ordered one off eBay for Gbody’s. I had my old one and they were pretty much identical. It came with the filler neck attached to it and the only thing I had to do was bend it a little bit to get it to fit just right the filler neck that is. It fills up fine. I’ve never had any issue with it. The filler neck has breathing ports
I can’t remember if it came with straps or not, but I put new straps on it as well. I think I had to order the straps.
I ordered a new fuel sending unit too for the tank
Good info 👍🏾
I’m doing a ford 9” swap on my 1983 cutlass I’m putting 24s on it I wanted to shorten the rearend so the rims could be a little tucked I know stock is 58 inches how much should I narrow
I don’t know that one, i was going to do the same thing but i was worried about only being able to run the specific wheel and offset with a shorter rear end
Hey bro, great work💯. Could you share the part numbers for the e brake parts you used?
I used the universal gbody wilwood ebrake kit for the rear. And the stock longer cable for the front I can make a video of it this weekend if it would be helpful
@@davidanscomb2034 I have a83 regal and I want to put 22's underneath with a stock ride height what the width of your rear axle ? And did you have to notch frame ?
Just got a rear end for my Cutlass from Trick Chassis. The disc brakes (w/parking brake) doesn’t want less than a 16” wheel. What size are those lovely factory looking wheels?
I need info on those rear brake lines too.
Wheels are 15 inch rallies, rear parking brake set up is the universal wilwood kit
I take that back they are 14”
@@davidanscomb2034 thanks for that. Those Wilwood brakes came with the lines?
Not alot. However, I have had zero issues I believe I marked them after three threads. So there in there atleast three threads
Hello,
I have an 87 cutlass with 15 inch olds rally’s and an 8.5 rear, can you tell me where you purchased rear disk kit?
Quick Performance located in Ames Iowa
Thanks!
Hi,
One last question, were you able to use the stock master cylinder (i know I need a disc to disc proportion valve)?
You got any videos of taking the frame off?
No but there’s plenty just you tube gbody frame off
All you gotta do is look at the threads. Its obvious which way they go...
1st 4 minutes 😁
My factory rear end is setting 1" to the right.is this only fixable with adjustables? And has anyone seen this before.car never been hit
Throw a sub box in the trunk with the weight to the left. Or get adjustable
nice car, did you need new driveshaft for the ford 9 inch. why not stay with gm? those non adjustable lowers do look short.
Yes, i had one made at a company named “ inland trucking “ its here in the city. I did not stay with factory for two reasons 1) wanted it custom fit 2) everything else is new on car: transmission, rear end, suspension, fuel system etc. the old one had surface rust and 30 year old u-joints.
Thank you, are you building something?
@@davidanscomb2034 i have 78 el camino and put hotchkis rear trailing arms on mine, just a cruiser
What rear are you running?
Quick performance 9” with 3:70 gear ratio or close to the stock ratio for hwy use. In retrospect I would have went with a faster gear ratio like 410
Where did you order the Ford 9 for inch from and what's the total length
I got the 9” from quick performance in ames iowa. I went with stock gbody length.
I just finished restoring the frame.. moving on to undercarriage to restore.. how did you get the body on the frame? I'm working with Jack's, jack stands and two 6x6 post
It’s not that bad however you have make sure you center it pretty much exactly where it was. Because when I put mine back down i had too shim the hell out of the back bumper because the body was about an inch to far back. I really noticed it and it was a struggle when I put the radiator core housing back, nothing warmed to line up as far as the front body panels. And i had to add washers as shims under radiator core to get it to mate up. Im sure you will run into the same problems just hit me up. I’ll make a video today about it for you
It was intense but I had six jack stands as far out on lips around the car. How I got my boards out was I used a harbor freight jack with the telescopic extension arms that swing out. And I use that in the front underneath the floor pan to raise the body out just enough to clear the boards. Then I slid them out and set it down on the six jackstands. I went around the back and did the same thing with another floor jack. Then I use those cheap harbor, freight wheel, dollies to wheel the frame back underneath it. Then I got the frame up on jackstands and put the floor jacks back onto the car again to move it around to line everything up while I set it down
@David Anscomb thank you! a vid would be so helpful my name is Ruben btw.. yeah I'm doing this all solo so it's kinda intense.. taking out wasn't so bad.. I slide the frame out to left.. I had all 4 jack stands within the frame
Where did you get a rear end alignment?
Nebraska alignment and frame
If you have extra weight in the trunk. You need a higher spring rate, not longer springs.
The rear is sitting too far forward since the control arms swing in an arc. Horizontal is further back, pointing down is what happen to your car, too far forward.
I have heavier spring rates from Eaton. Also swapped out for adjustable upper and lower control arms . Then got a rear alignment. Now wheels are centered . I’ll update a video
So that QA1 9 inch it all went right in with no issues?
No issues at all. I had a problem with shocks, and fabing brakes.
@@davidanscomb2034 thank you I'm going g to be buying the same rearend in the next month or 2 I have a 88 monte carlo SS with a wicked 427 big block it's bored 60 over has AFR heads a Howard's hydraulic roller cam turbo 400 with a reverse manual valve body 3500 stall converter the motor made 661 hp on the dyno and 605 torque going to be a fun street car. I looked at the rearend a couple of months ago and it was around 2.200 dollars does that sound about right? Let me know thank you.
I didn't see any QA1 equipment. It's a Quick Performance 9in for G body and UMI arms. Cost will vary depending on the options you choose. I went with the Wilwood brake kit and powder coating. Mine come to a little over $2800.
Your right I'm sorry I didn't mean to give you the wrong info sorry again
Did u run e brakes
Yes, and it was a bitch. I ordered a universal kit from wilwood and bought about four or five different front factory parking brake cables to make it lineup but then I had problems with the Ford 9 inch brake assembly off of the explorer. Some thing was getting in the way, so I had to take it to the shop and they disconnected one side.
What front spindles are you running
All star gbody replacements metric “ not drop spindles” and Dorman castle nuts off Amazon 05193.
Also I did not use above ride height springs in front. But I did use S-10 lower control arms.
What’s the guys name that you recommended on UA-cam?
Papo7oh2
How much for the non adjustables? If you want to sell.
50 bucks if your local. There just sitting in the box. I’ll never use them.
@@davidanscomb2034 awesome, I’ll take em, I can cover shipping if you don’t mind shipping. I can even email you a shipping label if you want. And PayPal goods and services. Will be Thursday before I can send everything. I can send you my number.
@@davidanscomb2034 those shouldn’t have any centering issues with the 7.5” should they? 78 malibu
@@davidanscomb2034 where are you at hell idk if your local or not haha
@@davidanscomb2034 how can I contact ya?
I have the exact setup on my cutlass with the quick performance 9 but can’t get my pinion angle to kick up positive degrees before the uppers separate and fall
Get it as close as you can to where you can drive it safely and take it to a suspension shop that can align it.
I would just get everything put together first
I got entire suspension set up but spooked to get drive shaft because I don’t want it to be too short or too long after they adjust everything. Probably do what you said and send it
🏁🏁🏁
Just don't have the money to get my g body together
Do you have a channel with videos of your gbody? Some people that have done one or more gbodys have so many left over parts that could possibly help
I seen your Monte, I wanted to do an ls swap but had know idea how to. it, it was more expensive than a carburetor 350
🦖👍