Just a friendly tip when welding cracks like those(Usually you wanna go with tig with matching filler rod as it is much cooler and wont weaken the metal around it with heat as much) but if you are going to mig it same process, the holes at the end is good but you should also grind a groove into the crack. The metal you are adding will always be stronger than the base metal so you want more of it with as little heat as you can. The groove not only allows the weld to penetrate further it also will allow the puddle/bead to lay in much more flush with the frame so when you go to grind it smooth you are removing much less metal(This is why tig is such a popular solution for this). Same process on repairing cracks on rims, groove and tig weld ect Just some friendly advice from someone thats certified in tig and mig in pretty much every size, filler rod and position :) This build is awesome, keep up the work!
Please drill holes at the ends of any cracks even if welding or plating over, will stop the cracks propagating further in any welds or undertow repair plates. Do you have access to dye penetrant (DPI) chemicals so you can see any spider or invisible cracks. Edit saw you are drilling the cracks... great job!
@@anders949494 Incorrect. If you look at Bimmerworld's site they dont fully weld the plates on. As long as the key areas are welded then the rigidity is the same.
@@anders949494 Yeah, Redish plates are nice. That said, to do it right, sadly, you'll have to add cups and a CMP/Vincebar to the top side, or cracks will just happen there, sadly :-(
You got some balls welding the plates on with that gas-tank near it. Would've removed this first - and since the rear brakeline looks like hell, you'll have to remove the tank anyway to replace this line... but nice work. Just a bit sad to hear that the S54 is going to be replaced. Should've put a Supercharger or Turbo on it :D
My diff drain bolt on my 350z had the most stubborn 18mm Allen bolt, I couldn't muster enough torque by myself. So I had to hire a lift so I could use a pipe on my rachet. $150 to remove one bolt aaaagh
Needing to use forklifts and small wheel loaders with forklift attachments to remove and install pins in even bigger wheel loaders or excavators 😅 have even chipped off parts of tines of the forks hitting the pins that hard
NCD2294 please go look at a parts diagram. If the hub isn’t installed there’s nothing for the axle splines to be seized to. The axle would just be left to rattle around loosely in the wheel bearing.
cool thing about BMWs, the way they are designed, usually theres only one way to put it together. So its easy to remember parts because its very obvious if your doing something wrong.
@sebastian Sm I am actually 1/2 Vietnamese myself and grew up in a Vietnamese community so I recognize the names very well. Just was saying your comment really did not answer the question @William Banquiter was asking. How is your day going today? I honestly don't meant that sarcastically.
The biggest difference you can often make to a roadcar that will see tracktime is dialling in the rear end so you don't get movement / deflection while under load because it robs your confidence to explore the friction limits of the car. I can say that even on my 997GT3, a far better starting car than this, the improvement was incomprehensibly large when I replaced some of the 'street' parts with better track orientated parts (shock mounts, firmer engine mounts, removing rubber from the toe and control arms, etc)
Ya’ll could really use the help of penetrating oil. If you spray it on and let it sit for 45 minutes, that could help w a lot of man power you’re putting into it. Of course it doesn’t always work but don’t underestimate it
You do realise that racp repair plates are just a band aid? They are intended as a final stage to a far more comprehensive repair. The damage actually begins at the 3 spot welds joining the racp to the left rear inner wheel arch, there just aren't enough of them so seem welding this join is pretty much a must. Will be interesting to see how the cross brace performs over the long term but I would have preferred to see something that also connects the chassis legs at the floor as this is another significant part of the overall design flaw... I also worry that all of the cross braces, vince bars etc out there fail to address the front mounts sufficiently although on cars caught early enough tying the chassis legs together at the rear mounts should mitigate the chances of damage at the front mounts... There are however still some dodgy mig welds that invariably need attention..
It all depends how the car was treated it's whole life.. if u buy a stock car with less owners chances are they drove the car normally, if its a salvage title, modified, and has had a bunch of owners most likey it's cracked. Also depends a lot where you live since their are areas where cars rust more
Wait....ppl are upset about a 2J swap? What are they smoking? The 2JZ is probably the best engine swap for ANYTHING. I thought your choice was perfect. Can’t wait to see the end of the series and how much power this thing can make.
Not sure if you've already got it yet or not - But since you already checked out one swedish manufacturer, check out "Millway" aswell (millway.se) - They make probably some of the worlds best bushing and arms for BMW's. A bunch of people who have nurburgring track cars run them, they stand up to the tests. Even the Puretech guy runs millway stuff on his cars
@@Scarlif3x because they are similar? Weight, wheelbase, handling, basically everything except the power output but still very similar. Not considering the interior here.
@@zexiali6483 yeah I know thats why everyone who's driven a m2 say it "feels" like the old m3. My point is u just said it, everything is similar so why didn't u go for a e46 m3 after watching this video? Cause the sumframe issues ? If you're looking at a e46m3 all this needs to be in your head already & have no problem doing it.
Connie Celica looks so sad waiting to be driven in the background. You should be driving that instead of the CT200. Great vid guys, have a good weekend.
I know this is a couple of years old The subframe cracks were addressed by a recall from BMW. Mine had the recall done - and essentially they did exactly what you did on the subframe. Evidently the owner did not get the recall done per BMW.
It is easier to get the axels loose when the subframe is still in the car first rather than drop the subframe then remove the axels. Remove axle nut, spray a lot of penetrating oil in the spline, disconnect from the diff, then place a ball pean hammer in the axle dimple, then take a BFH and hit the opposite side of the ball pean hammer.
There are alot of options and opinions. Welding seems like the go-to no fuss method without worrying about proper adhesion. Either method will last a very long time so unless you are talking about another 100K of driving and comparing whether glue or welds held together better, I think it's a wash for what is best.
@@speedacademy The reason I mention that is because some people at the track have used the welding method but later on experienced cracking around the welds instead. Either way with that reinforcement brace it should be fine. Thanks for all the detailed work and explanation you guys provide!
Hey, I have an e46 m3. Do you recommend the electric fan conversion? I’m thinking about going with the Mishimoto m3 kit, or is it better to stay with the oem clutch fan?
I’ve seen that rear brace, looks good but a bit expensive! As for ditching the s54....... well, yes I’m a purist but on this occasion I’ll let you guys off with a warning 😂😂😂
Didn't read all of the comments, but in case no one else already mentioned it, you should have welded all the way around the reinforcement plates, not just in a few places. Personally I would have gone with the Redish Motorsport plates. Also, any time you are directly underneath while drilling metal, do yourself a favour and put on some goggles to prevent getting metal filings in your eyes.
Wouldn’t an underside epoxy re-plate be better than weld? More homogenous contact, and no HAZ. What about using a Vincebar (or CMP similar) weld-I’m topside instead of the X-bar (which isn’t really an engineered truss. It’s simply 2 triangles connected at the middle-which, itself, is a flex point between the two triangles)
Might as well slap a 2jz in a cheap 240 chassis and call it super car killer. You could’ve made this into a fairy exotic classy “supercar” to kill supercars. 2jz is bore snore, s54 is much more interesting and just as capable.
IMO a turbo S54 would be both too overused and too simple. I would love to see a twin turbo S62 instead, that would be closer to deserve a "supercar killer" status in my mind
Just a friendly tip when welding cracks like those(Usually you wanna go with tig with matching filler rod as it is much cooler and wont weaken the metal around it with heat as much) but if you are going to mig it same process, the holes at the end is good but you should also grind a groove into the crack. The metal you are adding will always be stronger than the base metal so you want more of it with as little heat as you can. The groove not only allows the weld to penetrate further it also will allow the puddle/bead to lay in much more flush with the frame so when you go to grind it smooth you are removing much less metal(This is why tig is such a popular solution for this). Same process on repairing cracks on rims, groove and tig weld ect Just some friendly advice from someone thats certified in tig and mig in pretty much every size, filler rod and position :) This build is awesome, keep up the work!
Awesome info! Thank you. Honestly if time wasnt a factor I did read about cutting grooves but fell short to finish the episode
@@speedacademy Appreciate the reply! Maybe next time, sure does make the weld much stronger!
Please drill holes at the ends of any cracks even if welding or plating over, will stop the cracks propagating further in any welds or undertow repair plates. Do you have access to dye penetrant (DPI) chemicals so you can see any spider or invisible cracks.
Edit saw you are drilling the cracks... great job!
just needed to fully weld the plates on..
@@anders949494 Incorrect. If you look at Bimmerworld's site they dont fully weld the plates on. As long as the key areas are welded then the rigidity is the same.
@@speedacademy would do like Redish Motorsport do, and they fully weld but also makes better and bigger plates.
@@anders949494 Yeah, Redish plates are nice. That said, to do it right, sadly, you'll have to add cups and a CMP/Vincebar to the top side, or cracks will just happen there, sadly :-(
You got some balls welding the plates on with that gas-tank near it. Would've removed this first - and since the rear brakeline looks like hell, you'll have to remove the tank anyway to replace this line... but nice work. Just a bit sad to hear that the S54 is going to be replaced. Should've put a Supercharger or Turbo on it :D
Like the PureTech kit, looks great quality and design
Have you ever struggled so much with removing a part that you thought wasn't going to get replaced or fixed? Tell us your story!
My diff drain bolt on my 350z had the most stubborn 18mm Allen bolt, I couldn't muster enough torque by myself. So I had to hire a lift so I could use a pipe on my rachet. $150 to remove one bolt aaaagh
I literally did the exact same thing on an E36 like 20 years, lost my mind I swear, think I actually cried a bit lol
Hose clamps. My flathead kept slipping off it was sort of annoying.
Needing to use forklifts and small wheel loaders with forklift attachments to remove and install pins in even bigger wheel loaders or excavators 😅 have even chipped off parts of tines of the forks hitting the pins that hard
Had the same issue with my FD RX7 axles. I managed to fit the axle and hub assembly in the shop press and get them out.
Pretty cool that the brace still allows functionality of the rear seat pass-thru.
This was a tonne of work! But by doing this you have essentially corrected the Achilles heel of the e46 chassis! Good job!
Loved watching the welds appear on those plates in the time lapse shots. Very satisfying.
Right next to those fuel tanks ...
Three jaw puller for the axle. Use the three jaws around the hub, using the threaded rod portion to push the axle through.
Unless it's seized, like in their case. Then all it will do is pull the hub.
NCD2294 please go look at a parts diagram. If the hub isn’t installed there’s nothing for the axle splines to be seized to. The axle would just be left to rattle around loosely in the wheel bearing.
@@michaelw6277
My mistake. I realize now that it'd still solve the issue.
@@of_lion22 no worries! If I hadn't removed half shafts from so many different vehicles I could have thought the same thing.
All you needed was BMW special tool kit, would of came right out, also pulls axle back through hub. Only costs like $5k lol
Just get 3x three jaw pullers and hit them with the Ole milwaukee until the axle is out or you've stripper the pusher rod :D
This channel is so much better than b is for build, love the bmw.
Thank you!
Is there bad blood between the two channels?
That rear brace is pretty nice!! That axle looked like a dang pain!!
That’s a nice kit from PureTech
I love that puretec include the drill bit and guide. that's awesome.
I had the worst experience with an E36 Crankshaft Bolt. Heat and penetrating oil is gold advice =)
For me as a german your HARIBO pronunciation sounds funny😂
Häribus
Supposed to be "Ha-ree-bo" haha.
@@CapeRoadsPOV Had a similar thought😂
So impressive. I don't know how you can even remember how to put everything back together. Really cool build.
cool thing about BMWs, the way they are designed, usually theres only one way to put it together. So its easy to remember parts because its very obvious if your doing something wrong.
Maybe a noob question but is N V auto named for Nam & Vinh?
sebastian Sm What about Vietnamese? That Nam and Vinh are Vietnamese? If so, that wasn’t the question but thanks for the contribution.
@sebastian Sm I am actually 1/2 Vietnamese myself and grew up in a Vietnamese community so I recognize the names very well. Just was saying your comment really did not answer the question @William Banquiter was asking. How is your day going today? I honestly don't meant that sarcastically.
nice work ! Drilling is professional solution preventing crack getting worse.
You guys are hitting this one out of the park.
That’s a lot of work. Shit is gonna be minty fresh now tho
The biggest difference you can often make to a roadcar that will see tracktime is dialling in the rear end so you don't get movement / deflection while under load because it robs your confidence to explore the friction limits of the car. I can say that even on my 997GT3, a far better starting car than this, the improvement was incomprehensibly large when I replaced some of the 'street' parts with better track orientated parts (shock mounts, firmer engine mounts, removing rubber from the toe and control arms, etc)
It's remarkable what those changes will make and we can't wait to test this car out with all these upgrades!
You guys are making quick progress with this bad boy!
Love that support in the rear clean
Brute force and ignorance
Watching you two work together is so satisfying
Ya’ll could really use the help of penetrating oil. If you spray it on and let it sit for 45 minutes, that could help w a lot of man power you’re putting into it. Of course it doesn’t always work but don’t underestimate it
Damn id love to see a turbo on an S54
Say no more -- ua-cam.com/video/XxEl7yFllWM/v-deo.html
Many out there pushing over 1000whp
Good progress..that brace is dope!
Sweet Baja in the background at 5:40.
Yes when Pete doesnt touch it first,,,, Golden words from Nam.
Thanks for bringing a quality car build series. Your channel is always high quality.
The NVAuto boys are the bomb!
I love what you guys are doing with this car. Keep it up!
My man really said hariboos 🤦♂️
People are upset because you made it more reliable.
These guys are the best.
So hype I saw this on my feed! 🔥
Thank you so much guys! You are great profesionals!
You do realise that racp repair plates are just a band aid? They are intended as a final stage to a far more comprehensive repair.
The damage actually begins at the 3 spot welds joining the racp to the left rear inner wheel arch, there just aren't enough of them so seem welding this join is pretty much a must.
Will be interesting to see how the cross brace performs over the long term but I would have preferred to see something that also connects the chassis legs at the floor as this is another significant part of the overall design flaw...
I also worry that all of the cross braces, vince bars etc out there fail to address the front mounts sufficiently although on cars caught early enough tying the chassis legs together at the rear mounts should mitigate the chances of damage at the front mounts... There are however still some dodgy mig welds that invariably need attention..
i had the exact same issue when changing the diff and axles on my e36. I eventually got the axle out of the hub by using a pulley puller!
So afraid to see what my subframe looks like. I have 157k on my car 😬
T Ly that’s all i thought about the whole video 😂
Chances are your car will be totally fooked. Boot floor about to rip apart.
I got 220k miles on my e46 M3 and im afraid of what's underneath
I’ve got 157k on my 330i. Small crack near the left rear mount at the bend in the sheet metal. Pretty common place to first fail.
It all depends how the car was treated it's whole life.. if u buy a stock car with less owners chances are they drove the car normally, if its a salvage title, modified, and has had a bunch of owners most likey it's cracked. Also depends a lot where you live since their are areas where cars rust more
Nam... The man! Winning. 🏁
Where's the obligatory reverse supra coment?
Name recommondation: Arpus
I am loving this all ready!! My favorite car with my favorite engine
Great video! Fantastic way to start a Friday. Car is coming along nicely. Can't wait for the next update.
Wait....ppl are upset about a 2J swap? What are they smoking? The 2JZ is probably the best engine swap for ANYTHING. I thought your choice was perfect. Can’t wait to see the end of the series and how much power this thing can make.
Nam defeats Driveshaft by technical KO.
More power to you guys...old parts and rust leads to serious misery. Sweeeet build though!
Nice work boys keep going
Not sure if you've already got it yet or not - But since you already checked out one swedish manufacturer, check out "Millway" aswell (millway.se) - They make probably some of the worlds best bushing and arms for BMW's. A bunch of people who have nurburgring track cars run them, they stand up to the tests. Even the Puretech guy runs millway stuff on his cars
damn!! I'm glad I didn't get a e46 m3 and bought a m2 instead..
Same hahaha
Why would you compare a 15 year old car with a new one regardless of what it is? Specially with one going for $15-20k and the other +$40k lmao
@@Scarlif3x because they are similar? Weight, wheelbase, handling, basically everything except the power output but still very similar. Not considering the interior here.
@@zexiali6483 yeah I know thats why everyone who's driven a m2 say it "feels" like the old m3. My point is u just said it, everything is similar so why didn't u go for a e46 m3 after watching this video? Cause the sumframe issues ? If you're looking at a e46m3 all this needs to be in your head already & have no problem doing it.
@@Scarlif3x m2 comes with warranty, nice interior. It's a 2 year old car. I daily it so I want it nicer.
You tried every way ,but the right way to get the axle out. I guess the air chisel works, but have you tried a 10 ton jaw puller? Ask me how I know!
NAM is da' MAN!
I look forward to y'all having to do the same for the miatas rear hubs/bearings. Miata has that same design as the e46. I struggled with my NB's
Connie Celica looks so sad waiting to be driven in the background. You should be driving that instead of the CT200. Great vid guys, have a good weekend.
Ha! Connie needs one helluva paint job before driving her
Great no more oil leaks!!!
These guys have way bigger balls than me, no way I'd weld that close to a plastic fuel tank. Great work though, I'm loving this build.
Covering the tank with a wet rag goes a long way.
I wish puretech made a brace like that for the e36 M3.
Well luckily the e36 hardly ever faces this kind of problem 😉
I did not have any issue removing the axle from the wheel hub...but then again, i used proper bmw tools made specifically for that job.
Oooohhhhh, I haven’t noticed that RA Celica in the shop!
I know this is a couple of years old
The subframe cracks were addressed by a recall from BMW. Mine had the recall done - and essentially they did exactly what you did on the subframe. Evidently the owner did not get the recall done per BMW.
I could physically feel the frustration in that time lapse lol
When you're using that slide hammer, some of your momentum/force is being lost because the vice/table is moving. Needs a solid hold.
Yes, would have been better to do that on the car
You need a reactor stopper or vice to prevent the power being absorbed by your hands
Challenge THROTTLE HOUSE to the Miata Track Battle!
Already done that many times...
It is easier to get the axels loose when the subframe is still in the car first rather than drop the subframe then remove the axels. Remove axle nut, spray a lot of penetrating oil in the spline, disconnect from the diff, then place a ball pean hammer in the axle dimple, then take a BFH and hit the opposite side of the ball pean hammer.
Welding above the fuel tank is fun!
Looks like the axles succumbed to Big Nasty no problem! Nm that’s a Matco air hammer not Astro.
i was really hoping for a cool bmw swap like a m5 v8 but theres no arguing with the fact that a 2j is the best turbo option out there for the car
No the s62 with a compressor is way better than a 2j.
Top notch videos!
Dude you forgot to take the emergency brake off for that axle!!! Also putting back on ten se and doing burnouts works too
The subframe crack issue with the e46 is also internal. Just be aware with that.
Rewatching the m3 series because of covid19 boredom. Any plans on rebuilding the rear diff maybe doing Racing Diffs upgrade clutch pack for it?
ITS YA BOI KIIILER KEEEMSTAARR
You guys are awesome, learn so much in this channel 😎👍 keep those videos coming, thanks 👍
Thanks Chris!
Look up the hub grappler tool . You will thank me !
Good for driving!
If you guys haven’t already don’t forget to spray self etch in the trunk where you drilled to help with rust!
Good tip!!
I've heard aircraft glue works the best to glue on the rear subframe reinforcements instead of welding them on limited spots.
There are alot of options and opinions. Welding seems like the go-to no fuss method without worrying about proper adhesion. Either method will last a very long time so unless you are talking about another 100K of driving and comparing whether glue or welds held together better, I think it's a wash for what is best.
@@speedacademy The reason I mention that is because some people at the track have used the welding method but later on experienced cracking around the welds instead. Either way with that reinforcement brace it should be fine. Thanks for all the detailed work and explanation you guys provide!
This will really help when I slap it against a wall at 300mph
Vince Bar. Get it.
So much work. Can you give a realistic breakdown of hrs spent and $$ in parts for this build when done?
We can try!
I want that Subie pickup truck at the left side lift at 5:25
That's a Subaru Baja
Hey,
I have an e46 m3.
Do you recommend the electric fan conversion? I’m thinking about going with the Mishimoto m3 kit, or is it better to stay with the oem clutch fan?
I’ve seen that rear brace, looks good but a bit expensive! As for ditching the s54....... well, yes I’m a purist but on this occasion I’ll let you guys off with a warning 😂😂😂
he was happier to get that axle out than hewas when you upgraded his car 🤣
Didn't read all of the comments, but in case no one else already mentioned it, you should have welded all the way around the reinforcement plates, not just in a few places. Personally I would have gone with the Redish Motorsport plates. Also, any time you are directly underneath while drilling metal, do yourself a favour and put on some goggles to prevent getting metal filings in your eyes.
You need to hold against a solid stopper or a vice and not with hands
No self edging primer under the reinforcing plates ???
1999 - Galaxy Quest - "Never give up, Never surrender"
2019 - Speed Academy - "Never give up, Never surrender"
Goooood Job !!!
Does the entire subframe have to come off in order to install the subframe trunk brace?
U guys should do a giveaway with the s54 u took out of this car
You ALWAYS have to hit the axle out while its on the car. 5lbs sledge hammer. Once its out you can't pop them and even a shop press won't.
Laminated instructions = genius. Oily shop hands ruin everything (except for the thing they're making better)
Great vid!
Nice job PureTech... :-)
Wouldn’t an underside epoxy re-plate be better than weld? More homogenous contact, and no HAZ.
What about using a Vincebar (or CMP similar) weld-I’m topside instead of the X-bar (which isn’t really an engineered truss. It’s simply 2 triangles connected at the middle-which, itself, is a flex point between the two triangles)
Cracks? Is that from just daily usage or from abuse?
The bushing removal tool looks great! Did you make it?
Might as well slap a 2jz in a cheap 240 chassis and call it super car killer. You could’ve made this into a fairy exotic classy “supercar” to kill supercars. 2jz is bore snore, s54 is much more interesting and just as capable.
Agreed. Their budget obviously didn't allow for them to do an HPF or Maximum PSI 1000whp S54 build
IMO a turbo S54 would be both too overused and too simple. I would love to see a twin turbo S62 instead, that would be closer to deserve a "supercar killer" status in my mind