Rest is peace Phil. You were an excellent teacher. This incredible series of videos will immortalize you in the hearts and minds of aspiring ceramicists for generations to come.
How lucky we are to have these high quality lessons for free here! At last it all makes sense from A to Z. Can't thank you enough for these precious videos!
I am listening to these talks from the UK, what a lovely humble gentleman. In many of the classes, I had been to all I was taught is, there's the wheel there's some clay get on with it. I have now found someone who takes the time to show me, how to use the wheel correctly and what clay I need to use for the different projects. I can now learn the details from this gentleman that I have not been able to find in the UK plus I have dyslexia and find reading books a big no, no. Thank you X
Jim Hallissey, I'm sorry to say Phil passed away about a year ago. These videos will be around as long as UA-cam allows and I am working on some new content. I hope you enjoy all the videos and I'm thrilled we captured Phil's knowledge in this format to share with the community!
The best teacher! Explaining why ? This really helps me to retain information . What an intelligent man and so generous to share this valuable information.
This series of talks is simply outstanding. Phil generously shares his knowledge and experience in a very accessible way and his practical tips are invaluable. The combination of in-depth technical explanations of why things happen combined with practical advice of how to deal with them to achieve good results is just so powerful. A true expert and a first rate teacher. Thank you so much.
Thank you for the compliment! Phil is a lifelong learner and teacher with a vast background, check out this interview to learn more ua-cam.com/video/_6BYyW8m3u8/v-deo.html. The Potters' Round Table has been a passion for Phil over many years of his career. It's great that it's becoming a reality with 16,000 students every month! And thank you for becoming patron to help this dream continue!
Thanks Robert, in truth there was no crowd! We took advantage of the pandemic and recorded many of the videos without an audience! We are looking forward to the end of the pandemic and being able to host the Potters' Round Table in a live setting! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for this series! I can't begin to count the number of times something "happened" to one of my pieces and I didn't know why. Through talking with people I might get 4 or 5 different "reasons" and how to prevent it but you never knew for sure which one was correct. Which makes trying new things still a blind guess. Getting a good grounding on what is really happening on a molecular level makes it much easier to predict how the clay (or glaze) will behave in the future. This knowledge you share freely is priceless!
You are still very early in the series, you will be blown away with the future topics! I hope you enjoy them all and share them with your friends and fellow potters!
This is a wonderful series for me an amateur amateur potter having to set up at home due to my husbands illness. So good to be taught the basics first. Thank you for your clear interesting and important teaching.
Tessa, Thank you for the encouragement. If you have any topics you would like covered, let us know! Also share the channel with your friends and fellow potters to help us grow our community.
Parinaz Tayyebi, thank you for your encouragement. You can help spread the messages by sharing our channel with your friends and fellow artists. Thank you for watching.
This is an incredible, incredible resource. Thank you só much for making this available for free. I will be telling everyone at my communal studio. Thank you.
Alexandra, thank you for your encouragement. We enjoy making the videos and we hope you find them useful. Please share the channel with your friends and fellow potters to help us grow our community!
Bryan Kauder, thank you for the kind words! You can thank us by sharing this channel with your friends and fellow potters to help us grow our community! And I hope you enjoy all the content.
Paul, you are exactly right! Phil taught ceramics at Hood College for many years. He also has a passion for building a ceramics community.. We've combined two of his passions to create the Understanding Pottery series which contains many of the topics covered in a BFA program in ceramics and more! Since I don't have an art degree and I'm to old to go get one, this series has been perfect for me to get the knowledge at no cost! Thanks for the comment!
@@WashingtonStreetStudios I currently have 125 high school ceramics students (learning at a distance through Google Classroom), here in Southern California. Fortunately I was able to get a 25 lbs bag of clay to each student so they can work "remotely" as I give them online instruction. I was blessed with having John Hopkins in Riverside CA, and then Jerry Rothman at Cal State Fullerton, CA as my ceramics and sculpture teachers in the early 1990's. During these tasking times of teaching through the computer, this channel has been an integral resource for me. Thank you!
Paul, I can't put into words how powerful this comment is and how much energy it gives us to continue on during this pandemic! You have made this channel a worthy effort and we appreciate it! Teach well and let us know if there is a topic you would like us to cover or if there is any way we can support you. We love to support teachers!
Very helpful and clear information! Knowing about molecule orientation and how that impacts drying should will really help me with the process! After watching this presentation, I really understand some of the reasons why several of my pieces cracked in the drying process and also after glaze firing. Phil really does a good job covering the topic!
Spencer, It's great to hear that you are getting a bunch of useful information from the videos. You are not going to believe all the information Phil shares in the rest of the 40+ topics in the Understanding Pottery Series.... Then you can take a look at Pottery Shorts.... When that is done, there are the PRT lectures. And more coming every month! We hope you enjoy them all and share them with your friends and fellow potters!
Freddie, We are thrilled that you find the videos insightful! There are many more ahead of you. Please share the channel with your friends and fellow potters to help us grow our community.
Did you know that you can get a digital microscope for your phone that will magnify up to x1000 and at that magnification you can see the clay platelets? I was tempted, but I didn't know what else I would use it for...
Marianne, Thank you for your encouragement! There are lots of videos and I hope you enjoy them all. Please share the channel with your friends and fellow potters.
I have noticed over the years that clay items dry from the top down. I assume this is due to the pull of gravity on water, causing it to migrate downward through the clay particles. Wheel-thrown bowls and mugs, even amateurishly-made uncompressed ones, are less likely to develop cracks in the bottom if, after the rims have firmed up to near- leather-hardness, the item is turned upside-down on the drying board. When students are drying projects that cannot be inverted, I do suggest putting a plastic bag over them, leaving the bottom open so downward-migrated water is evaporated more quickly.
It could also be effected by surface area, volume and circulation. A mug set on its base would tend to humidify the air inside it and since the bottom isn't being as exposed to the air and the rate of exchange with the outside air is higher near the opening you will see slightly faster drying towereds the top.
The only reason why the rim of a pot dries faster is because it’s not doing the initial drying while sitting in contact with a bat. Gravity has absolute nothing to do with it
just a comment on industrial ware dryers ,working in the ceramic sanitary industry ,although this process was not my field,dryers were flooded with steam to increase humidity of the atmosphere at various points in the drying cycle after the humidity cycle the atmosphere was extracted and the temperature ramp continued,apparently this decreased the drying time and reduced dunting .Have you come across this process?
Brian b, thanks for the comment. I have not come across this process and unfortunately Phil passed away in July. He worked many years in commercial ceramics and likely knew about industrial ware dryers!
Maree Mc Donald, Sorry it took a while to get back to you! And I'm really sorry Phil passed away last July and isn't here to answer this question directly. But I worked with Phil over 10 years and I can pass on what I learned from him. How long should you leave pottery uncovered to dry? Well, that's a good question and the answer will depend on several factors, heat, humidity and air flow. Phil always told me you should not rush any aspect of pottery and definately don't rush drying! You should cover pottery any time you are leaving the studio for the day. You can uncover pottery while you are in the studio and you should monitor the dryness while you are there, to make sure it's drying evenly. If there are thicker parts of the pot, e.g. the bottom of a bowl that will have a foot trimmed on it, you want that thicker area exposed, and if possible, covery the thinner walls in plastic so they don't get over dry. you can make longer thin strips of plastic and spray a mist on the walls if they start drying out. When I am making pots, I cover them when I leave the studio. I uncover the pots when I return to the studio and check the dryness every 3-4 hours. Once they reach leather hard, I cover them until I'm ready to trim. After trimming I still cover the pots when I leave the studio. I want to make sure they are drying evenly, and that's hard to monitor if you aren't in the studio. I hope this helps, keep watching! Dennis
Sammy, loosely cover the piece in plastic, like a dry cleaner bag, and let it dry very slowly. It will take a while, up to a week or two, if some areas are thick. When you bisque fire preheat the kiln for a couple hours, I preheat or candle the kiln for four hours normally, seven hours if I have a piece I'm worried about. Good luck and I hope this helps!
@@WashingtonStreetStudios oh, okay, thankyou!! Also, it would be great if you could cover slip casting on your channel as well! :) I seem to understand a topic here, at best!
When a clay body is rated at a cone 10 does that mean it must be bisqued at that level or can it be bisqued at cone .04 and glazed at cone 10? Also is there any way that I can tell the difference between a bisqued piece as to wether it is high fire or low fire?
Very good questions! Most clays, and all clays that I am familiar with, are bisque fired at the same cone range, typically from cone 010 to 04. My normal cone temperature is cone 06 for my cone 6 and cone 10 clay. After a piece has been bisque fired there are no consistent way to determine the target vitrification cone. There are many examples of low fire clay melting in mid or high glaze firings.
@@WashingtonStreetStudios Thank you for your thoughtful reply. I have several pieces that I wish to cone 6 glaze. I am uncertain if they are earthenware or stonewear. To avoid melting and ruining my kiln,, is there any way to tell, now that they are bisqued, if they are safe to fire at cone 6? They were all originally made several years ago. I realize I can glaze them all at cone .06 without a problem, but I wish, if possible, to glaze them at cone 6. Any suggestions would be of help.
Oh my, I am shocked to hear of Phil’s passing. I so enjoyed his videos. He was a wonderful teacher. I will miss him greatly as I am sure all of you at Washington Street Studios will as well. May he Rest In Peace with the knowledge that he helped us all be better ceramic artists. He made a difference which is all you can say about a person’s life. So sad today! 😢😢😢😢😢
Actually it's a good question! If you check out an earlier video that is an interview with Phil you will find out he has studied geology, chemical engineering and spent 40 years in ceramics! We are lucky that he is doing this, a lifetime of learning in a video series. Thanks for asking and enjoy the videos!
Rest is peace Phil. You were an excellent teacher. This incredible series of videos will immortalize you in the hearts and minds of aspiring ceramicists for generations to come.
Thank you Jonathan, that was Phil's dream.
I’m a novice and watching this in preparation to dig clay in my backyard and wood fire it. So it seems to be working.
How lucky we are to have these high quality lessons for free here! At last it all makes sense from A to Z. Can't thank you enough for these precious videos!
Thank you for your encouragement! Please share the channel with your friends and fellow potters.
I know these videos are 3 years old but I’ve binge all of Phil’s videos!! Thank you so very much
I still watch them and I filmed and edited the videos!
I am listening to these talks from the UK, what a lovely humble gentleman. In many of the classes, I had been to all I was taught is, there's the wheel there's some clay get on with it. I have now found someone who takes the time to show me, how to use the wheel correctly and what clay I need to use for the different projects. I can now learn the details from this gentleman that I have not been able to find in the UK plus I have dyslexia and find reading books a big no, no. Thank you X
Jim Hallissey, I'm sorry to say Phil passed away about a year ago. These videos will be around as long as UA-cam allows and I am working on some new content. I hope you enjoy all the videos and I'm thrilled we captured Phil's knowledge in this format to share with the community!
The best teacher! Explaining why ? This really helps me to retain information . What an intelligent man and so generous to share this valuable information.
This series of talks is simply outstanding. Phil generously shares his knowledge and experience in a very accessible way and his practical tips are invaluable. The combination of in-depth technical explanations of why things happen combined with practical advice of how to deal with them to achieve good results is just so powerful. A true expert and a first rate teacher. Thank you so much.
Thank you for the compliment! Phil is a lifelong learner and teacher with a vast background, check out this interview to learn more ua-cam.com/video/_6BYyW8m3u8/v-deo.html. The Potters' Round Table has been a passion for Phil over many years of his career. It's great that it's becoming a reality with 16,000 students every month! And thank you for becoming patron to help this dream continue!
I've learned so much about clay, we never went into this much detail in pottery class! Thank you! This will definitely help my skill as a potter.
Such a brilliant teacher and great lessons, I've learned so much.
I hope you enjoy all the videos! Phil was a great teacher and such an inspiration!
Im am enjoying every episode, it all makes sense now!
You are early in the series, you will learn tons over the next 24 chapters! I hope you enjoy and share with your friends and fellow potters!
Paul, beer coaster line was great. Dead crowd, or just folks stuck in the mud. Like clay.
Thanks Robert, in truth there was no crowd! We took advantage of the pandemic and recorded many of the videos without an audience! We are looking forward to the end of the pandemic and being able to host the Potters' Round Table in a live setting! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for this series! I can't begin to count the number of times something "happened" to one of my pieces and I didn't know why. Through talking with people I might get 4 or 5 different "reasons" and how to prevent it but you never knew for sure which one was correct. Which makes trying new things still a blind guess. Getting a good grounding on what is really happening on a molecular level makes it much easier to predict how the clay (or glaze) will behave in the future. This knowledge you share freely is priceless!
You are still very early in the series, you will be blown away with the future topics! I hope you enjoy them all and share them with your friends and fellow potters!
This is a wonderful series for me an amateur amateur potter having to set up at home due to my husbands illness. So good to be taught the basics first. Thank you for your clear interesting and important teaching.
Tessa, Thank you for the encouragement. If you have any topics you would like covered, let us know! Also share the channel with your friends and fellow potters to help us grow our community.
I love the detailed, scientific explanations - really helps me understand at a foundational level. Thank you!
I hope you enjoy all the videos!
I can't believe how helpful these series of videos are and I hope more people get to watch them and learn from them🙏🏻🙏🏻
Parinaz Tayyebi, thank you for your encouragement. You can help spread the messages by sharing our channel with your friends and fellow artists. Thank you for watching.
Fantastic presentation, so informative. Thank you 😊
Glad it was helpful!
This is an incredible, incredible resource. Thank you só much for making this available for free. I will be telling everyone at my communal studio. Thank you.
We really appreciate your sharing of our information! We enjoyed making the videos.
Thank you very, very much!!!!
You are most welcome! Please share the channel with your friends and fellow potters to help us grow our community! Keep watching.
Thank you so much for sharing 😊
Thank you for watching and please share the channel with your friends and fellow potters to help us grow the channel!
So good! Thank you for your posts.
Mary, Thank you for your encouragement, please share the channel with your friends and fellow potters to help us grow our community!
Thank you very much for these wonderful aducational videos! Wishing all the best to creators of this channel.
Alexandra, thank you for your encouragement. We enjoy making the videos and we hope you find them useful. Please share the channel with your friends and fellow potters to help us grow our community!
Thank you for all of these free uploads!
You are most welcome, please share the channel with your friends and fellow potters to help us grow our community!
Thankyou for your knowledge!
Thank you for the encouragement and keep watching!
Thanks for sharing
Our pleasure, thank you for watching! Please share the channel with your friends and fellow potters to help us grow our community.
Can’t thank you enough for these videos!! What an incredible resource. Binging them all!
Bryan Kauder, thank you for the kind words! You can thank us by sharing this channel with your friends and fellow potters to help us grow our community! And I hope you enjoy all the content.
Thanks for another great lesson , well taught , precise and clear information. 👍
Someone is binge watching! Phil is really good at teaching, I'm happy to be capturing the information now for use into the future.
This is of great value to show beginning ceramic students
Paul, you are exactly right! Phil taught ceramics at Hood College for many years. He also has a passion for building a ceramics community.. We've combined two of his passions to create the Understanding Pottery series which contains many of the topics covered in a BFA program in ceramics and more! Since I don't have an art degree and I'm to old to go get one, this series has been perfect for me to get the knowledge at no cost! Thanks for the comment!
@@WashingtonStreetStudios I currently have 125 high school ceramics students (learning at a distance through Google Classroom), here in Southern California. Fortunately I was able to get a 25 lbs bag of clay to each student so they can work "remotely" as I give them online instruction. I was blessed with having John Hopkins in Riverside CA, and then Jerry Rothman at Cal State Fullerton, CA as my ceramics and sculpture teachers in the early 1990's. During these tasking times of teaching through the computer, this channel has been an integral resource for me. Thank you!
Paul, I can't put into words how powerful this comment is and how much energy it gives us to continue on during this pandemic! You have made this channel a worthy effort and we appreciate it! Teach well and let us know if there is a topic you would like us to cover or if there is any way we can support you. We love to support teachers!
You deserve millions of wiews
thanks!
Thank you so much for the excellent explanation, now I finally understand better some of my "special" or failed glaze results :-))
Maria F., we are happy that you found the video helpful! Please share the channel with your friends and fellow potters to help us grow our community.
Thank you, you explain things so well. I really appreciate your videos.
Hopefully you enjoy the entire series and our other videos! Thank you for watching.
Very helpful and clear information! Knowing about molecule orientation and how that impacts drying should will really help me with the process! After watching this presentation, I really understand some of the reasons why several of my pieces cracked in the drying process and also after glaze firing. Phil really does a good job covering the topic!
Spencer, It's great to hear that you are getting a bunch of useful information from the videos. You are not going to believe all the information Phil shares in the rest of the 40+ topics in the Understanding Pottery Series.... Then you can take a look at Pottery Shorts.... When that is done, there are the PRT lectures. And more coming every month! We hope you enjoy them all and share them with your friends and fellow potters!
Outstanding series so far and I am just starting, hopefully this will fix many mistakes before they happen. I am glad Phil got to live his dream.
Thanks Steve, I watch the videos over and over, and I recorded them!
@@WashingtonStreetStudios Just did a test fire on my new to me kiln, it's manual but hey I think I got this
Just found this series and I already know it is exactly what I am looking for! Thank you so much for sharing!!
Tom, I hope you enjoy the series and please share the channel with your friends and fellow potters to help us grow our community.
@@WashingtonStreetStudios It was the first thing I did! Thanks again!
Thanks!
No problem!
Now I know what and why happens to some of my pottery pieces. You are sharing such valuable info. Thank you for sharing
It's good to know the information is useful! Be sure to share it with your friends and fellow potters!
i love this!
If you watch all the videos, you will know more about ceramics than most potters!
Thanks a lot !
You're welcome and be sure to share the channel with your friends and fellow potters! It will help us grow our community!
WOW! Let there be light in my understanding.
Thanks for another good video!
Freddie, We are thrilled that you find the videos insightful! There are many more ahead of you. Please share the channel with your friends and fellow potters to help us grow our community.
@@WashingtonStreetStudios would it be alright to send a check as a contribution as I don't want to get involved with Patreon.
Yes indeed. Make it out to Washington Street Studios and send it to 9019 Harris St, Frederick, MD 21704
such a great video!
Thank you!!
I'm so geeking out on clay particles! :-)
Did you know that you can get a digital microscope for your phone that will magnify up to x1000 and at that magnification you can see the clay platelets? I was tempted, but I didn't know what else I would use it for...
@@WashingtonStreetStudios I wonder what a glaze would look like under magnification and if it would be useful?
This is so very helpful!
Marianne, Thank you for your encouragement! There are lots of videos and I hope you enjoy them all. Please share the channel with your friends and fellow potters.
I have noticed over the years that clay items dry from the top down. I assume this is due to the pull of gravity on water, causing it to migrate downward through the clay particles. Wheel-thrown bowls and mugs, even amateurishly-made uncompressed ones, are less likely to develop cracks in the bottom if, after the rims have firmed up to near- leather-hardness, the item is turned upside-down on the drying board. When students are drying projects that cannot be inverted, I do suggest putting a plastic bag over them, leaving the bottom open so downward-migrated water is evaporated more quickly.
Peter, Thanks for sharing, it's nice to share experiences and we're happy you chose this venue to share!
It could also be effected by surface area, volume and circulation. A mug set on its base would tend to humidify the air inside it and since the bottom isn't being as exposed to the air and the rate of exchange with the outside air is higher near the opening you will see slightly faster drying towereds the top.
The only reason why the rim of a pot dries faster is because it’s not doing the initial drying while sitting in contact with a bat. Gravity has absolute nothing to do with it
just a comment on industrial ware dryers ,working in the ceramic sanitary industry ,although this process was not my field,dryers were flooded with steam to increase humidity of the atmosphere at various points in the drying cycle after the humidity cycle the atmosphere was extracted and the temperature ramp continued,apparently this decreased the drying time and reduced dunting .Have you come across this process?
Brian b, thanks for the comment. I have not come across this process and unfortunately Phil passed away in July. He worked many years in commercial ceramics and likely knew about industrial ware dryers!
Hi is there a time frame to leave pottery uncovered to dry in between drying thnx
Maree Mc Donald, Sorry it took a while to get back to you! And I'm really sorry Phil passed away last July and isn't here to answer this question directly. But I worked with Phil over 10 years and I can pass on what I learned from him.
How long should you leave pottery uncovered to dry? Well, that's a good question and the answer will depend on several factors, heat, humidity and air flow. Phil always told me you should not rush any aspect of pottery and definately don't rush drying! You should cover pottery any time you are leaving the studio for the day. You can uncover pottery while you are in the studio and you should monitor the dryness while you are there, to make sure it's drying evenly. If there are thicker parts of the pot, e.g. the bottom of a bowl that will have a foot trimmed on it, you want that thicker area exposed, and if possible, covery the thinner walls in plastic so they don't get over dry. you can make longer thin strips of plastic and spray a mist on the walls if they start drying out.
When I am making pots, I cover them when I leave the studio. I uncover the pots when I return to the studio and check the dryness every 3-4 hours. Once they reach leather hard, I cover them until I'm ready to trim. After trimming I still cover the pots when I leave the studio. I want to make sure they are drying evenly, and that's hard to monitor if you aren't in the studio.
I hope this helps, keep watching!
Dennis
What would be a great way to slowly dry a piece with various widths of clay?
Sammy, loosely cover the piece in plastic, like a dry cleaner bag, and let it dry very slowly. It will take a while, up to a week or two, if some areas are thick. When you bisque fire preheat the kiln for a couple hours, I preheat or candle the kiln for four hours normally, seven hours if I have a piece I'm worried about. Good luck and I hope this helps!
@@WashingtonStreetStudios oh, okay, thankyou!!
Also, it would be great if you could cover slip casting on your channel as well! :)
I seem to understand a topic here, at best!
When a clay body is rated at a cone 10 does that mean it must be bisqued at that level or can it be bisqued at cone .04 and glazed at cone 10? Also is there any way that I can tell the difference between a bisqued piece as to wether it is high fire or low fire?
Very good questions! Most clays, and all clays that I am familiar with, are bisque fired at the same cone range, typically from cone 010 to 04. My normal cone temperature is cone 06 for my cone 6 and cone 10 clay. After a piece has been bisque fired there are no consistent way to determine the target vitrification cone. There are many examples of low fire clay melting in mid or high glaze firings.
@@WashingtonStreetStudios Thank you for your thoughtful reply. I have several pieces that I wish to cone 6 glaze. I am uncertain if they are earthenware or stonewear. To avoid melting and ruining my kiln,, is there any way to tell, now that they are bisqued, if they are safe to fire at cone 6? They were all originally made several years ago. I realize I can glaze them all at cone .06 without a problem, but I wish, if possible, to glaze them at cone 6. Any suggestions would be of help.
I have no idea how to tell. Phil probably could have helped but unfortunately he passed away last Wednesday.
Oh my, I am shocked to hear of Phil’s passing. I so enjoyed his videos. He was a wonderful teacher. I will miss him greatly as I am sure all of you at Washington Street Studios will as well. May he Rest In Peace with the knowledge that he helped us all be better ceramic artists. He made a difference which is all you can say about a person’s life. So sad today! 😢😢😢😢😢
Hahaha! Humour is classic!
I agree, Phil is a classic!
Why didn't I learn this in school? lol
Actually it's a good question! If you check out an earlier video that is an interview with Phil you will find out he has studied geology, chemical engineering and spent 40 years in ceramics! We are lucky that he is doing this, a lifetime of learning in a video series. Thanks for asking and enjoy the videos!