I like the idea of doing the frame rail mini tub deal on the table. Would make it easier to do. I think when we work around these cars all the time, its easy to become complacent. Each day is a gift.
I totally think you are on the right track with how you are thinking to hold the rear end of car while taking out frame rails ....Things are getting real exciting watching you progress Roger .... Stay safe buddy and keep taking your time and doing it right ..... So glad I get to watch you tackle this job before I get there BIG time !!!
Dude your amazing. My dad and brother were fireman/paramedic. I am doing a 67 rs with a 327. Ground up resto. Trying to do it least expensive I can. Love learning from you. Thank you for your service and expertise. Hope you get to spend some time with the young lady I saw you with in one video.
Roger the only safe way I can see to raise it on the lift is to use the bar thru the holes above the wheel wells and drop a bar down the 19 inches and weld a tee on the bottom of that bar and maybe weld the tee to the lift arm. and I would use a chain or cable through the car and bind the front of the car to the front arms of the lift. Or make some tall jack stands and do it on the floor. Keep up the good work.
I have a idea for you if you want to drill a pilot hole from the bottom use a dremel with a small drill bit and that tool is a lot smaller to get from under the car then go up top and drill the spot weld out i would give that a try later
Same thing happened to a friend of KT (512kjt) last year. I think he had a floor jack fail on him. I am always worried when under my car. Be safe brother.
I just talked to Russ about that accident Sunday night before my surgery. Scary stuff brother, we must always be on the alert and remember that complacency will get us. Do you have a AMD distributor near you? I’ll be in OKC in January and shipping to my house is nearing $3k. I’m thinking of just renting a Uhaul and picking up parts. Also, How deep is that well to reach the frame rail welds? I may have a setup for you made by KCC.
MrFireman164, I have used these before on control cabinets at power plants and other tight spaces. I found these on Amazon and you can put them on a socket extension. Here’s Amazon’s link for them. I hope this will help. www.amazon.com/KCC-Industries-DR4402-Value-Pack/dp/B073Z2L2C2 David
Do you have your rear end installed yet? Like you, I’m doing new AMD frame rails and have a jig built with proven plans. The jig has pins at the rear for the large holes at the bottom of the frame rail near the shackle tube spaced at 44.25” between them. When I put my frame rails on the center of those pins, I cannot get the frame rail to frame rail inside dimension (below the center of the shackle tube, but on the frame) to match the 42.875” from the Fisher manual. Have you checked to see if your aftermarket frame rails, when put back where factory ones were, have the spec spacing between the rails? I can’t see how it physically could get the Fisher number and hold the center of the rails at 44.25” at those holes. I may need to push them out farther than original to get the shackle to shackle distance like factory. I’m super critical like you are, so I want precision. I’m within 1/8” of the Fisher number, so I would need to move each rail out less than 1/16” to get the right number (but losing my 44.25” slightly). I’m now thinking that you did notice the aftermarket frame rails were thicker gauge. So, I may be off some because of that, and my shackle tubes may be correct when I center the pins in my frame rails. Suggestions? I don’t have access to these locations to measure on the original car yet. It’d be great to just know the distance needed from shackle tube edge to shackle tube edge inside the frame rails so my rear fits perfectly. The way the Fisher manual is could cause issues with aftermarket gauge metal as it doesn’t really use the shackle tubes’ edges. I’m going factory rear end, so I’m looking for original placement. Thanks for your time. It’s amazing that we are doing nearly the same things to our cars. Your videos have been so helpful. Sorry for the long question. Trying to learn and do it right.
general23cmp so messaging back and forth on here and trying to understand what you are saying is a little tough , here is my email rschafer@ymail.com , email your phone number and I will call you and we can work out your issues.
Agree with Russ on the frame rails. Do the cutting and as much welding as you can off the car and it won't be as much of a thrash working under the car. Did anyone ever ask why you didn't just buy a Dynacorn body? lol. Just kiddin' brother.
Instead of boxing why not just weld in a couple 1.5" pipes inside the rail like what is already in the back. wouldn't that be like boxing but easier? on the Chevelle they have a zig zag reinforcement on my rear control arms but some still box them if they plan on racing. just thinking out loud.
you can use the boxed steel that would work fine, I am simply suggesting cutting 2" sections and welding them inside the cross section of the frame rail which will create a honeycomb effect and increase the strength significantly. Just my opinion ;)
![FRAME RAIL SECTION REMOVAL - 1971 Camaro Torque Box Repair [PART 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Unwq7VT4TSw/mqdefault.jpg)
![ОРБАН приехал к ПУТИНУ и "отчитался" о поездке в Киев 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_0ukDovOWq8/mqdefault.jpg)
I like the idea of doing the frame rail mini tub deal on the table. Would make it easier to do. I think when we work around these cars all the time, its easy to become complacent. Each day is a gift.
Double R Restorations agreed
Amen to that Russ. Bob and JoAnn
I totally think you are on the right track with how you are thinking to hold the rear end of car while taking out frame rails ....Things are getting real exciting watching you progress Roger .... Stay safe buddy and keep taking your time and doing it right ..... So glad I get to watch you tackle this job before I get there BIG time !!!
Dude your amazing. My dad and brother were fireman/paramedic. I am doing a 67 rs with a 327. Ground up resto. Trying to do it least expensive I can. Love learning from you. Thank you for your service and expertise. Hope you get to spend some time with the young lady I saw you with in one video.
James Brown thanks , glad to be helpful
Tip at 8:40 sounds like a really good idea
Whew! Looks like a lot of work.I really need to replace all of that like you are, but I don't have the nerve or patience to get into all of that.
The gift of the day is seeing the sun shining . 🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞⭐️⭐️☀️☀️🎆🎆🎆🎆🎆🎆💥💥💥💥💥💥💥🌞🌞🌞🌞😎😎😎😎✌🏼️
Damn u getting that thang right!
It’s going to be one awesome ride Roger!!
TheRooster1122 thanks 🙏
Roger the only safe way I can see to raise it on the lift is to use the bar thru the holes above the wheel wells and drop a bar down the 19 inches and weld a tee on the bottom of that bar and maybe weld the tee to the lift arm. and I would use a chain or cable through the car and bind the front of the car to the front arms of the lift. Or make some tall jack stands and do it on the floor. Keep up the good work.
John Hambrick thanks
I have a idea for you if you want to drill a pilot hole from the bottom use a dremel with a small drill bit and that tool is a lot smaller to get from under the car then go up top and drill the spot weld out i would give that a try later
265chevy thanks Hanson
THANK YOU...for sharing.
ELSDP-45 👍
Same thing happened to a friend of KT (512kjt) last year. I think he had a floor jack fail on him. I am always worried when under my car. Be safe brother.
asicerik thanks Erik ,will do
Sobering reminder about safety. Easy to forget that one second of reckless judgment can be fatal.
Cyclops Garage yes
Perfect!
Alex Clemente 👍
I knew you'd be watching for that!
Ryan Spyres yes but it never hurts to make sure
Just be careful with the distortion from welding the rails without support.
Ryan Spyres yes ! We talked about clamping it to the welding table to keep it from warping, may not be enough tho . Thanks for the heads up
enjoy!
Where did you buy the frame rails from?
brad michelau Summit , AMD
I just talked to Russ about that accident Sunday night before my surgery. Scary stuff brother, we must always be on the alert and remember that complacency will get us. Do you have a AMD distributor near you? I’ll be in OKC in January and shipping to my house is nearing $3k. I’m thinking of just renting a Uhaul and picking up parts. Also, How deep is that well to reach the frame rail welds? I may have a setup for you made by KCC.
Busy Bee Restoration I use Summit racing to get all my parts , there is no where close to here
Busy Bee Restoration probably 3-4” deep
MrFireman164, I have used these before on control cabinets at power plants and other tight spaces. I found these on Amazon and you can put them on a socket extension.
Here’s Amazon’s link for them. I hope this will help.
www.amazon.com/KCC-Industries-DR4402-Value-Pack/dp/B073Z2L2C2
David
Busy Bee Restoration thanks , I actually have some of those but didn’t consider using an extension with them
Do you have your rear end installed yet? Like you, I’m doing new AMD frame rails and have a jig built with proven plans. The jig has pins at the rear for the large holes at the bottom of the frame rail near the shackle tube spaced at 44.25” between them. When I put my frame rails on the center of those pins, I cannot get the frame rail to frame rail inside dimension (below the center of the shackle tube, but on the frame) to match the 42.875” from the Fisher manual. Have you checked to see if your aftermarket frame rails, when put back where factory ones were, have the spec spacing between the rails? I can’t see how it physically could get the Fisher number and hold the center of the rails at 44.25” at those holes. I may need to push them out farther than original to get the shackle to shackle distance like factory. I’m super critical like you are, so I want precision. I’m within 1/8” of the Fisher number, so I would need to move each rail out less than 1/16” to get the right number (but losing my 44.25” slightly). I’m now thinking that you did notice the aftermarket frame rails were thicker gauge. So, I may be off some because of that, and my shackle tubes may be correct when I center the pins in my frame rails. Suggestions? I don’t have access to these locations to measure on the original car yet. It’d be great to just know the distance needed from shackle tube edge to shackle tube edge inside the frame rails so my rear fits perfectly. The way the Fisher manual is could cause issues with aftermarket gauge metal as it doesn’t really use the shackle tubes’ edges. I’m going factory rear end, so I’m looking for original placement. Thanks for your time. It’s amazing that we are doing nearly the same things to our cars. Your videos have been so helpful. Sorry for the long question. Trying to learn and do it right.
general23cmp so messaging back and forth on here and trying to understand what you are saying is a little tough , here is my email rschafer@ymail.com , email your phone number and I will call you and we can work out your issues.
Get a smaller drill with a longer drill bit it'll work
You need an aircraft length drill bit
akpd1 yes
Agree with Russ on the frame rails. Do the cutting and as much welding as you can off the car and it won't be as much of a thrash working under the car. Did anyone ever ask why you didn't just buy a Dynacorn body? lol. Just kiddin' brother.
Wes Perry lmao
Wes Perry I’m starting to ask that question;)
nah. No fun in that.
Where did you get the new rails ?
Joseph Barnes summit
@@MrFireman164 thanks. I have to do the same thing.
Joseph Barnes 👍
Lots of fun. lol..
Rarerat this is actually pretty fun , I love a good challenge
OH yea i did see a extension for a drill bit at Harbor Freight tonight i think that what it was for later check into it
265chevy thanks
Man the rails are some main structure stuff and yet it looks like it’s so thin. I would definitely box those out for strength that’s a good idea
KingsDisasterGarage thanks
was here.
The88katana600 me too
Sympathies to the family of Russ's lost friend. I've seen that happen. Please be careful.
William Matthews thanks
Just looking at the video again, wouldn't it be great to have a plasma cutter when cutting out spot welds lol
Cary Lamari I would be great in general
Instead of boxing why not just weld in a couple 1.5" pipes inside the rail like what is already in the back. wouldn't that be like boxing but easier? on the Chevelle they have a zig zag reinforcement on my rear control arms but some still box them if they plan on racing. just thinking out loud.
Cary Lamari well I would have to go buy pipe and I just spent 30.00 on box
you can use the boxed steel that would work fine, I am simply suggesting cutting 2" sections and welding them inside the cross section of the frame rail which will create a honeycomb effect and increase the strength significantly. Just my opinion ;)
Cary Lamari oh I see , you are talking inside the frame rails 👍
When are you going to tell about your Camaro might as well do it all at once
Gregg KUZILA you lost me ?
so your not actually removing anything just running your mouth , thought i was gonna learn something
Nope just running my mouth, if you keep watching my vids you to can learn to run your mouth.