It's recommended to split roughly equal mass halves but as you said you can steer the cut to a certain extend. I think you got it right the first time, handle goes in the direction you want the split to run. The lever you get from the height of the froe blade will increase the pressure on the part the top touches. Alternatively or additionally, the weak side can be supported by pressure or in a riving brake for a similar effect or the leverage can be increased by pushing even more on the strong side by hand. It's much more useful in longer and thinner pieces, you won't be able to steer much in a 10" diameter 2' long log; if you split 1/10th of the log, it will run out. That is one good looking froe, I'd love to use. Great job! There are froes that have a convex bevel and those are much less useful, as the described lever action is much different and the bevel pushes the wood apart way below in the cut. It's probably comparable to wedges that can be slender and straight taper or as many cheap ones only have a secondary bevel or convex grind. Axes as well.
I'll learn more about blacksmithing techniques from your close-up camera shots then I have from reading books, and watching videos. Thank you I have been struggling on my Anvil for a while.
I have the same problem! I try to take a hard swing to set the mark in one blow and the darn thing will ricochet off. I finally resorted to using a 4 1/2# hammer with a big square flat face...now I seldom miss and the heavy hammer drives the marks in one blow. John Switzer over on Black Bear Forge uses a treadle hammer...wish I had one to use.
I am in the middle of the making of a froe - as a beginning blacksmith and have been watching +10 videos of froe forging. Yours is by far the best one I have seen! I find bending the iron around to form the eye pretty tricky, especially geting it to match up. Your methods seems very effective! I subscribed immediately after watching. You deserve way more views!
Absolutely amazing and I want to eventually learn to forge but I got to build a cabin and such first , so for now I'll order some forged tools (since no electricity out there)
Very nice. I was trying to figure out how the two upset corners turned into the eye, then it all made sense. Very nicely done. You had my subscription in about the first 30 seconds.
I just discovered this channel yesterday...You, sir, have a phenomenal UA-cam channel...quaintly similar in name to my own 😂. Ive been a hobby blacksmith for almost a decade and have watched more than my fair share of UA-cam channels - yours is easily the most underrated and undersubscribed I've encountered... I've got so much appreciation for a UA-cam blacksmith who hasn't done a knife forging video (yes I've made knives)...and who doesn't have a shop full of power tools! Where've you been for the last 10yrs? Are you available for hire for blacksmith demonstration? I'm President of an ABANA affiliate club (doesn't mean I'm a good smith by any measure 😂) - we have a few conferences every year and hire demonstrators - for example I hired Roy Adams of Christ Centered Ironworks back in autumn 2022 and it was a fantastic visit. Last question: Is that a William Foster anvil by chance? Keep up the phenomenal work! - James
Great video Jordan! Watching how you forged the eye was VERY instructional! I also enjoyed you explaining the filing and shaping of the handle. Forging a GOOD froe is on my list (I've already forged a crappy froe since I usually mangle the 1st of anything I make!). Thanks again for taking the time to video and share your work! Hope you get to make progress on your shop in 2021!
That’s solid work mate... it was interesting to see you forge weld that eye without de-scaling... just the flux... I go to a lot of trouble to de-scale before welding... seems I should just forge on. As an Australian it’s interesting to see you wearing a side arm whilst working... bears? Bandits?
Thanks! Yeah, I think in these kinds of welds normal oxide scale isn't an issue. Under good welding conditions it just welds right back in. The kind of scale that is a problem is dirty scale- thick scale that has taken on dirt from the fire, spent flux, etc. Jusy clean the joint before bending and bringing it together, then get it tight and fluxed good ASAP. Keep it tight until welded so no dirt can get in there. I'm not really worried about pure scale- just foreign matter. On the sidearm, I just try to keep something close. Like a fire extinguisher- chances are you won't need it, but it is there if you do.
Great work bud. A tool always at the top of my list. I still need to get my hands on some wrought though as I have yet to find any that doesn't get taken up by the local colonial area.
Thanks Matt! Pretty much. I use power tools to cut stock for some production items, and occasionally use a grinder on some projects- usually when I need to grind something that is already heat treated and too hard to file.
Thanks Henry! First, make sure the iron is danged sharp with the proper edge geometry, then set it by first setting the sole of the shave tightly down on a clean, flat piece of wood, and putting the iron in place. Once tightened in, it shouldn’t have enough iron exposed to cut much, if at all. Then light taps to the top end of the blade to deepen the cut til it is where you want it. Visually inspect by looking into the light along the surface of the sole. May take some practice. Some spokeshaves have the luxurious feature of depth adjusting knobs on both sides of the iron, which makes adjustment easy.
Great video! Are you putting a slight convex into the cross section of the blade? This is crucial for controlling longer splits like for chair back bends. Most froes I see today have a flat blade. Good for shingles! Not so much for the controlled splits.
Joel, I'm shooting for a flat-sided true wedge shape, with just a tiny bit of convexity at the edge. Trying to copy nice antique versions, and Greg Pennington, Windsor chairmaker has endorsed the design. But I'll talk to him more about a slight convex. Most "flat-sided" froes today are made from a flat bar with a bit of an edge ground or forged into it, and they are indeed terrible for controlled splitting.
It is so that the eye is tapered when finished. I’ve since changed the way I do that step, instead I just bend the eye material in a slight curve on edge, which accomplishes the same thing.
A froe doesn't really have bevels the way a lot of bladed tools do. Instead it has a wedge-shaped cross-section. I suppose some would consider that double bevel. I haven't made an adze yet.
Since you're making yours out of wrought iron and that a fairly soft and poor metal would it be safe to say mild steel from like home depot would also get the job done and make it easier for a beginning blacksmith? Or is wrought iron more like cast iron where if you heat it up to critical temperature it turns glass hard and brittle?
I do not consider wrought iron a “poor” metal, but it is certainly softer- though I have found it to be a little less prone to bending while cold than mild steel. I make froes out of both- and the mild steel works just fine, though it is more work to forge, except for the fact it doesn’t have to be resized if you buy it in the right size. Mild steel is probably a little more forgiving for a beginner even though it is harder to forge. It is not necessary to have anything hard for a froe used for typical riving work.
Too thick? I think that is perfect! The distance from corner to corner for the eye should be 6”. Also, I would leave the spine of the froe 1/2” thick- don’t draw it down to 3/8” as I did in the video.
@@AxeAndAnvil thank you so much for your response ,I only have a gas forge but I do have some iron mountain Flux I weld steel good but never have tried wrought ,do you think I will achieve a good weld ,maybe let it soak on low psi then crank it up
@@waylonmark2206 it’s hard to say. Wrought iron also needs to be forged at an extremely high heat when doing any major material movement. I’m not super familiar with gas forges, but I know some will do it and some won’t.
I cheered when you missed the touch mark.. not because you missed, but because I”M NOT THE ONLY ONE!!!!!
One of the most underrated channels on UA-cam
Haha have to agree. 😜
You did a fantastic job while wrapping that eye around.
Thank you! They don’t all go that well I can promise you.😂
very nice precise Froe , you can by moving the handle as you strike the froe increase the split without having to wedge and pull it
The only video ive seen of a proper way to forge a froe to match historical examples, thank you you have taught me somthing new!
It's recommended to split roughly equal mass halves but as you said you can steer the cut to a certain extend. I think you got it right the first time, handle goes in the direction you want the split to run. The lever you get from the height of the froe blade will increase the pressure on the part the top touches. Alternatively or additionally, the weak side can be supported by pressure or in a riving brake for a similar effect or the leverage can be increased by pushing even more on the strong side by hand. It's much more useful in longer and thinner pieces, you won't be able to steer much in a 10" diameter 2' long log; if you split 1/10th of the log, it will run out.
That is one good looking froe, I'd love to use. Great job!
There are froes that have a convex bevel and those are much less useful, as the described lever action is much different and the bevel pushes the wood apart way below in the cut. It's probably comparable to wedges that can be slender and straight taper or as many cheap ones only have a secondary bevel or convex grind. Axes as well.
Thanks David! Good stuff!
Goodness gracious this guy is talented
Haha well thank you!
Beautiful work, great guidance.
I'll learn more about blacksmithing techniques from your close-up camera shots then I have from reading books, and watching videos. Thank you I have been struggling on my Anvil for a while.
Man, I'm just super tickled to hear that! We're working on more content.
Like for safety! Side arm is good workplace protection
Very nicely done.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who occasionally misses a punch or stamp XD Beautiful work!
Haha yeah, sometimes I just can't seem to hit it!
I have the same problem! I try to take a hard swing to set the mark in one blow and the darn thing will ricochet off. I finally resorted to using a 4 1/2# hammer with a big square flat face...now I seldom miss and the heavy hammer drives the marks in one blow. John Switzer over on Black Bear Forge uses a treadle hammer...wish I had one to use.
I am in the middle of the making of a froe - as a beginning blacksmith and have been watching +10 videos of froe forging. Yours is by far the best one I have seen! I find bending the iron around to form the eye pretty tricky, especially geting it to match up. Your methods seems very effective! I subscribed immediately after watching. You deserve way more views!
Thank you! Good luck with your Froe!
Well done on the froe...nice job! You were prudent to recommend NOT using a metal hammer to split with. Most smiths don't point that out.
This all looked vaguely familiar 😆 nice work!
Haha thanks!
Traditional blacksmith , love your work!
Thank you!
Beautiful work, froe real
You did a great job forging the froe. I enjoyed this video. Thank you.
Thank you!
Absolutely amazing and I want to eventually learn to forge but I got to build a cabin and such first , so for now I'll order some forged tools (since no electricity out there)
Excellent video!
Very nice. I was trying to figure out how the two upset corners turned into the eye, then it all made sense. Very nicely done. You had my subscription in about the first 30 seconds.
Haha thank you!
A pure joy to watch! Very Fun! makes me feel like an old wise man watching you! well done!
Haha thank you! 'preciate it!
I just discovered this channel yesterday...You, sir, have a phenomenal UA-cam channel...quaintly similar in name to my own 😂. Ive been a hobby blacksmith for almost a decade and have watched more than my fair share of UA-cam channels - yours is easily the most underrated and undersubscribed I've encountered... I've got so much appreciation for a UA-cam blacksmith who hasn't done a knife forging video (yes I've made knives)...and who doesn't have a shop full of power tools! Where've you been for the last 10yrs? Are you available for hire for blacksmith demonstration? I'm President of an ABANA affiliate club (doesn't mean I'm a good smith by any measure 😂) - we have a few conferences every year and hire demonstrators - for example I hired Roy Adams of Christ Centered Ironworks back in autumn 2022 and it was a fantastic visit.
Last question: Is that a William Foster anvil by chance?
Keep up the phenomenal work!
- James
Great video Jordan! Watching how you forged the eye was VERY instructional! I also enjoyed you explaining the filing and shaping of the handle. Forging a GOOD froe is on my list (I've already forged a crappy froe since I usually mangle the 1st of anything I make!). Thanks again for taking the time to video and share your work! Hope you get to make progress on your shop in 2021!
Very nice video, great ambiance!
Excellent video sir, I love the project and the information and education was perfect
Thank you!
A pleasure to watch!
Beautiful design. Love ur videos. Can't wait to see ur next videos. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend forge on.
Thank you Jared!
@@AxeAndAnvil ur very welcome Forge on
Great video about amazing set of skills without silly music in the background
Thank you!
Great video and great forge work! 👍
Thanks!
Great video Jordan! Keep up the good work!
Thanks Broadus! My videographer is killing it!
That’s solid work mate... it was interesting to see you forge weld that eye without de-scaling... just the flux... I go to a lot of trouble to de-scale before welding... seems I should just forge on.
As an Australian it’s interesting to see you wearing a side arm whilst working... bears? Bandits?
Thanks! Yeah, I think in these kinds of welds normal oxide scale isn't an issue. Under good welding conditions it just welds right back in. The kind of scale that is a problem is dirty scale- thick scale that has taken on dirt from the fire, spent flux, etc. Jusy clean the joint before bending and bringing it together, then get it tight and fluxed good ASAP. Keep it tight until welded so no dirt can get in there. I'm not really worried about pure scale- just foreign matter.
On the sidearm, I just try to keep something close. Like a fire extinguisher- chances are you won't need it, but it is there if you do.
Froe look cool. I really like coal forge👍👍👍🔥🔥🔥🔥
Great work bud. A tool always at the top of my list. I still need to get my hands on some wrought though as I have yet to find any that doesn't get taken up by the local colonial area.
Thanks! Keep an eye out for wagon tires at junk shops and yard sales. Be worth checking at scrap yards too.
Great video, Jordan!
Thank you!
You do some awesome work! Do you do everything by hand when doing production items on your shop?
Thanks Matt! Pretty much. I use power tools to cut stock for some production items, and occasionally use a grinder on some projects- usually when I need to grind something that is already heat treated and too hard to file.
Absolutely love the channel. I just had a quick question. With your spokeshave, where do you set the iron to get those very thin shavings
Thanks Henry! First, make sure the iron is danged sharp with the proper edge geometry, then set it by first setting the sole of the shave tightly down on a clean, flat piece of wood, and putting the iron in place. Once tightened in, it shouldn’t have enough iron exposed to cut much, if at all. Then light taps to the top end of the blade to deepen the cut til it is where you want it. Visually inspect by looking into the light along the surface of the sole. May take some practice. Some spokeshaves have the luxurious feature of depth adjusting knobs on both sides of the iron, which makes adjustment easy.
Amazing work !
Question , when you cleaned your fire out ; we're you sifting out there coke / coal to perpare for forge weld the eye ?
Thanks! No, but it is a good idea to save back a bucket of clean coke to help with such welds.
Great video! Are you putting a slight convex into the cross section of the blade? This is crucial for controlling longer splits like for chair back bends.
Most froes I see today have a flat blade. Good for shingles! Not so much for the controlled splits.
Joel, I'm shooting for a flat-sided true wedge shape, with just a tiny bit of convexity at the edge. Trying to copy nice antique versions, and Greg Pennington, Windsor chairmaker has endorsed the design. But I'll talk to him more about a slight convex. Most "flat-sided" froes today are made from a flat bar with a bit of an edge ground or forged into it, and they are indeed terrible for controlled splitting.
What is the purpose of making one side of the eye thinner than the other?
It is so that the eye is tapered when finished. I’ve since changed the way I do that step, instead I just bend the eye material in a slight curve on edge, which accomplishes the same thing.
Man that iron is soft isn't it. I have a big wheel hoop I'll have to work some of it. Very nice skills u have good sir.
Thank you Eric! Sorry for the slow reply.
Very cool! What kind of camera did you use fir this?
Thanks! Using a GH5.
👍👍👍👍
Does a fro have a single bevel or double have you made a wood added yet 👍
A froe doesn't really have bevels the way a lot of bladed tools do. Instead it has a wedge-shaped cross-section. I suppose some would consider that double bevel. I haven't made an adze yet.
Since you're making yours out of wrought iron and that a fairly soft and poor metal would it be safe to say mild steel from like home depot would also get the job done and make it easier for a beginning blacksmith? Or is wrought iron more like cast iron where if you heat it up to critical temperature it turns glass hard and brittle?
I do not consider wrought iron a “poor” metal, but it is certainly softer- though I have found it to be a little less prone to bending while cold than mild steel. I make froes out of both- and the mild steel works just fine, though it is more work to forge, except for the fact it doesn’t have to be resized if you buy it in the right size. Mild steel is probably a little more forgiving for a beginner even though it is harder to forge. It is not necessary to have anything hard for a froe used for typical riving work.
I have a piece of 1/2×1.5×16 of wrought I would love to make a froe out of ,but I fear it's to thick what length did you lay out for your eye
Too thick? I think that is perfect! The distance from corner to corner for the eye should be 6”. Also, I would leave the spine of the froe 1/2” thick- don’t draw it down to 3/8” as I did in the video.
@@AxeAndAnvil thank you so much for your response ,I only have a gas forge but I do have some iron mountain Flux I weld steel good but never have tried wrought ,do you think I will achieve a good weld ,maybe let it soak on low psi then crank it up
@@waylonmark2206 it’s hard to say. Wrought iron also needs to be forged at an extremely high heat when doing any major material movement. I’m not super familiar with gas forges, but I know some will do it and some won’t.
While isolating the heat with water like that, do you have to worry about cracking with the wrought iron?
Nope! It is very forgiving.
@@AxeAndAnvil is that because there’s no carbon?
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