Thanks man! Unfortunately I didn't want to overload the dual mass flywheel and the clutch (when done properly ;) ) so I just made what you can see :) I assume there is about 10s right now and there was about 11.5+s at 0-100km/h. My friend has 308 1.6HDi 120PS and he finds my car significatly more responsive. It really feels nimble happy to accelerate now :)
Thanks! :) Fuel consumption got... lower! It is mostly because of slightly raised commonrail fuel pressure (on the fuel pump), slightly higher boost pressure (mapping of regulating valve) and bigger torque near 2000 rpm (let's you drive 80km/h on 5th gear without wanting to downshift) etc. I've got like 5.5 liters/100km on the 1500km highway runs. Of course I am not driving 160km/h all the time then ;) Comfortable speed on the highway? I would say about 150km/h - that's 3400rpm on the 5th gear which is still on the highend of the torque curve. This car is not an aerodynamic monster so don't expect too much. Real life v-max is like 180km/h on the straight (four person, will go more but rather makes no sense). This engine + tune in the Peugeot 308 would do wonders due to aerodynamic differences and longer gearing. Still I like the versality of Partner and I am super happy with my remap.
@@bartosznazar Thank you for the answer! My goal would be between 160-180, on lowering springs, with a longer gearbox (from later Berlingo/Partner, or C4 f.e.), maybe some small aero mods. Still, the 5,5L is pretty good!
The DPF and EGR are there, stock since beginning, fully functional after the remap. When you drive quite a lot out of the city, on the highways, the exhaust gases can heat up the DPF and EGR units to quite healthy for them 500-600C and that makes them clean (less clogged). This is my case and I've had no problems with these ever. I am also using OBD interface to monitor the amount of soot in the DPF and I try to never switch the engine off while the unit is regenerating itself. That helps too. Slow city driving, with low exhaust temperatures is killing these systems so it depends on your daily routes.
@@bartosznazar Nice. Very nice power numbers considering its all stock. I want to do the same but want to keep DFP and EGR. What OBD reader are you using? Didnt know you can monitor the amount of soot in the DPF. Also, these engines (1.6 e-hdi 2012) do have their own additives, but its a small tank underneath the engines and it contains only 3 liters. Some kind of pre-adblue aditive.
@@mateomilnovic6391 So you want to do the same stage 1 as I did, with fully functional DPF and EGR. My reader is Vgate Icar Pro BT4.0. You can pair it with Android EOBD Facile app or FAP (full version of FAPlite). Then you can read EGT, soot load, FAP pressure difference etc in realtime. That helps to understand the FAP. The additive you are talking about is named Eolys. It's volume is 1200ml. It is added when ECU want to regenerate the FAP. It makes the temperature higher which burns soot and lowers the pressure difference. You have to change it after 140-180kkm, reset the ECU and open the FAP, get rid of the bottom soot load and hydroclean the FAP itself.
@@bartosznazar Exactly. I just had it refilled, at about 168k km, it did cost a pretty penny at around 160€/3l but still cheaper than refilling ad blue every month :D Thanks for the tips, I think you video just convinced me to go to stage 1 on my 207 SW!
@@bartosznazar hello, how can you know when the unit is regenerating the dpf, which obd2 recommends to see that process in real time. thank you so much
Рік тому
Hi,would you remap in my place a Peugeot 207cc 1.6Hdi 112ps with 190.000km or better not? Tnx on your answer ;)
Remap - when driving on full gas - puts more stress on the turbocharger, injectors, high pressure fuel pump, headgasket, clutch, DMF and others. If you were abusing those in first 190000km or were not maintaining the car properly (max 10kkm oil change, repairs etc.), I would be sceptical. Otherwise, when it will be used for overtaking, shorter burst of power, not 0-100 races / long motorway driving, I still would do it because it is worth it. Please also bare in mind that driving with full gas on lower rpm (after the remap) might clog the DPF much faster (fast city driving). Suming things up - if it's well maintained car - do it and just don't use it non stop ;) Have fun!
Рік тому
@@bartosznazar thank you very much,i use that car only from.home to work,sometimes i need a little bit more Power,but deffinetly not abuse that remap,the car history i would say is it ok,after Peugeot service maintance(but definetly not every 10.000km,i think i saw every 20.000km was.oil change)? 🤗
Hi! Not exactly the same one because of different ECU (yours is probably Bosch EDC, mine is Siemens SID807evo) but every good tuner will get you somewhere around 130PS with your engine (I assume it is "healthy" one :) ).
Hi! The D2 engine you're mentioning is (as of my knowledge) the same 1.6HDI 115 that I have got. I don't know the exact max torque figures for the clutch but I can asure you that I didn't get any slip or any signs of it yet. It "sticks" very well. I believe that 300Nm is the safe limit. Other users got even up to 330Nm of torque (I personally didn't want that) and have no problems. Some other car that I know has well over 240.000km (yet on stock 115 engine) and it is still using the first clutch set, even though it is purely city used. One have to remember that these cars share all the parts with their VAN counterparts, which often get very beaten up. The parts seem to be pretty heavy duty for that reason. Don't dump the clutch, change gearbox oil every 50.000km and have fun :)
@@bartosznazar Thanks for the detailed info. I asked because I had some regards if a PSA engine is a good idea for a reliable volvo because I had some bad experience with the PSA *petrol* engines in the past. It looks like it‘s the opposite situation with PSA diesels. The V50 with the D2 and 270 NM has so much punch which I didn’t expect from a PSA Engine. I bought it because of the fuel consumption and wanted a reliable car (coming from a 307cc with the 1.6 NFU which has 110 HP | 150NM at ~4000 revs and used like 9 Liters per 100KM! 🤯) 150 NM vs 270 NM is quite the difference especially when both cars weight about 1450 KG for the V50 and over 1500 for the 307 😂 Whats even more surprising is the almost same amount of HP which proves that NM are more important for everyday driving like pulling from 70 KM/h to 110. All in all I didn’t expect the engine to be punchy nor it being reliable. I bought the volvo with 180 000 KM’s on it, and now I’m about to crack the 190 000 Mark. Absolutely nothing major happened. Just checked the oil, and air filter every now and then. It didn’t used up any oil so far👍 That’s unbelievable good. The 1.6 NFU I had ate the oil away like a maniac 👎 Conclusion: I was just curious what is possible with the updated D2. It’s a great engine so far and I think I will have fun with it for a long time. Looks like volvo made a good decision😌👍
@@firestorm780 You're right. PSA diesels are very reliable and are used by Peugeot, Citroen, Mazda, Toyota (3WZ), Volvo, Ford and Mini for a reason. And I mean 1.6HDi as well as 2.0HDi. Make frequent oil changes (max 10.000km) and enjoy the performance and longevity :) Best regards!
Either Total Ineo ECS 5W30 (authorized by PSA) or Mobil 1 ESP 5W30. Both are Low SAPS oils. And the most important thing - change the oil at max 10.000km.
@@numarknumark7476 HTC is designed to work in High Temperature Countries and the main difference is higher viscosity (better in my opinion) at 100C than ECS. I would recomend it over ECS for better protection of your engine. I still personaly use Mobil 1 ESP 5W30 though.
I don't remember what was the stock turbo pressure in my car (115HP) but today I did test some other Partner with 1.6HDi 90HP engine and it peaked at 2228 mbar stock (and kept about 2150 mbar at full gas). My car after tuning (138HP) did 2831 mbar at peak. The difference in acceleration between these cars is really huge :)
@@bartosznazar I have a Volvo V50 1.6hdi 8v (230k mileage, manual transmission) with a D4162T engine (115 hp), the peak pressure is 2550 mbar, and I wanted to know if this is the standard pressure or maybe someone has already changed it before me. Also, I heard that the difference between the 1.6hdi 16v and 1.6hdi 8v engines is that in the 8v they reduced the compression ratio and increased the turbo pressure. Thanks for feedback 🤝
Same engine but on c4 aircross, mine is running 1.7 bar stock and after remap 1.9 bar, 137 hp on BaPro dyno and 310 nm of torque. Watch out for the turbo limit on ECU, it's setted at 2.05 bar for safety, if you running the original map sensor don't go over 2 bar or your car goes into limp mode
@@vinsc4403 We are talking about same thing :) My 2831mbar is so called "absolute pressure", your 1.9 bar is called "relative to atmospheric" (where atmospheris is, let's say, 1000mbar). So we both have like 1.8-1.9bar of RELATIVE pressure and yet the same power and torque figures :) 😎😎
Absolutetly yes! It is a different car after the remap - more responsive, torquey and playful. The car is much safer during overtaking manouvers. The powerband is wider and that makes a big change too. I wish I made it few year earlier. Of course one should remember that abusing the car might lead to some failures (DMF, clutch, axle joints etc.). Use your head and you won't hurt the longevity of the parts. Dumping the clutch on start or driving 200km/h for hours with 1.6HDi won't do no good right? ;)
Szczerze to chyba bym tego nie robił. Turbosprężarka czy też pompa wysokiego ciśnienia będą trochę bardziej wysilone, co po takim dystansie może nie być dla nich wskazane. Warunkowo rozpatrzyłbym tylko w wypadku regularnie i dobrze serwisowanego samochodu po wymianie turbo, wtrysków, sprzęgła itd.
Hi pal great video lots of good information do you have any figures of the 0-100km with both befour and after
Thanks man! Unfortunately I didn't want to overload the dual mass flywheel and the clutch (when done properly ;) ) so I just made what you can see :) I assume there is about 10s right now and there was about 11.5+s at 0-100km/h. My friend has 308 1.6HDi 120PS and he finds my car significatly more responsive. It really feels nimble happy to accelerate now :)
Great video! Very informative!
If I may ask, how does this affect the fuel consumption, and what would be a good, raised travel speed on higway?
Thanks! :) Fuel consumption got... lower! It is mostly because of slightly raised commonrail fuel pressure (on the fuel pump), slightly higher boost pressure (mapping of regulating valve) and bigger torque near 2000 rpm (let's you drive 80km/h on 5th gear without wanting to downshift) etc. I've got like 5.5 liters/100km on the 1500km highway runs. Of course I am not driving 160km/h all the time then ;) Comfortable speed on the highway? I would say about 150km/h - that's 3400rpm on the 5th gear which is still on the highend of the torque curve. This car is not an aerodynamic monster so don't expect too much. Real life v-max is like 180km/h on the straight (four person, will go more but rather makes no sense). This engine + tune in the Peugeot 308 would do wonders due to aerodynamic differences and longer gearing. Still I like the versality of Partner and I am super happy with my remap.
@@bartosznazar Thank you for the answer! My goal would be between 160-180, on lowering springs, with a longer gearbox (from later Berlingo/Partner, or C4 f.e.), maybe some small aero mods.
Still, the 5,5L is pretty good!
@@gtasomogyi I also have thought about 6 gear gearbox but I haven't completed the project :-/ It is the way to go after the remap! Good luck!
@@bartosznazar There are 5 speed gearboxes what are longer, f.e. in C4 too.
Thank you! We'll see, maybe it will be a C4 Picasso, or C-Max mk2. :D
@@bartosznazar Hi! Any news about the 6 speed gearbox project? :)
Did you remove DPF/EGR before the remap or is it still stock in that area?
The DPF and EGR are there, stock since beginning, fully functional after the remap. When you drive quite a lot out of the city, on the highways, the exhaust gases can heat up the DPF and EGR units to quite healthy for them 500-600C and that makes them clean (less clogged). This is my case and I've had no problems with these ever. I am also using OBD interface to monitor the amount of soot in the DPF and I try to never switch the engine off while the unit is regenerating itself. That helps too. Slow city driving, with low exhaust temperatures is killing these systems so it depends on your daily routes.
@@bartosznazar Nice. Very nice power numbers considering its all stock. I want to do the same but want to keep DFP and EGR. What OBD reader are you using? Didnt know you can monitor the amount of soot in the DPF.
Also, these engines (1.6 e-hdi 2012) do have their own additives, but its a small tank underneath the engines and it contains only 3 liters. Some kind of pre-adblue aditive.
@@mateomilnovic6391 So you want to do the same stage 1 as I did, with fully functional DPF and EGR. My reader is Vgate Icar Pro BT4.0. You can pair it with Android EOBD Facile app or FAP (full version of FAPlite). Then you can read EGT, soot load, FAP pressure difference etc in realtime. That helps to understand the FAP. The additive you are talking about is named Eolys. It's volume is 1200ml. It is added when ECU want to regenerate the FAP. It makes the temperature higher which burns soot and lowers the pressure difference. You have to change it after 140-180kkm, reset the ECU and open the FAP, get rid of the bottom soot load and hydroclean the FAP itself.
@@bartosznazar Exactly. I just had it refilled, at about 168k km, it did cost a pretty penny at around 160€/3l but still cheaper than refilling ad blue every month :D
Thanks for the tips, I think you video just convinced me to go to stage 1 on my 207 SW!
@@bartosznazar hello, how can you know when the unit is regenerating the dpf, which obd2 recommends to see that process in real time. thank you so much
Hi,would you remap in my place a Peugeot 207cc 1.6Hdi 112ps with 190.000km or better not?
Tnx on your answer ;)
Remap - when driving on full gas - puts more stress on the turbocharger, injectors, high pressure fuel pump, headgasket, clutch, DMF and others. If you were abusing those in first 190000km or were not maintaining the car properly (max 10kkm oil change, repairs etc.), I would be sceptical. Otherwise, when it will be used for overtaking, shorter burst of power, not 0-100 races / long motorway driving, I still would do it because it is worth it. Please also bare in mind that driving with full gas on lower rpm (after the remap) might clog the DPF much faster (fast city driving). Suming things up - if it's well maintained car - do it and just don't use it non stop ;) Have fun!
@@bartosznazar thank you very much,i use that car only from.home to work,sometimes i need a little bit more Power,but deffinetly not abuse that remap,the car history i would say is it ok,after Peugeot service maintance(but definetly not every 10.000km,i think i saw every 20.000km was.oil change)? 🤗
Hi can we do this map for Peugeot 206sw with 1.6hdi 110 bhp engine?
Hi! Not exactly the same one because of different ECU (yours is probably Bosch EDC, mine is Siemens SID807evo) but every good tuner will get you somewhere around 130PS with your engine (I assume it is "healthy" one :) ).
can the clutch take it? Volvo V50 with the D2 2012 (I think it's this engine). 6 Speed gearbox
How much can the gearbox and clutch take?
Hi! The D2 engine you're mentioning is (as of my knowledge) the same 1.6HDI 115 that I have got. I don't know the exact max torque figures for the clutch but I can asure you that I didn't get any slip or any signs of it yet. It "sticks" very well. I believe that 300Nm is the safe limit. Other users got even up to 330Nm of torque (I personally didn't want that) and have no problems. Some other car that I know has well over 240.000km (yet on stock 115 engine) and it is still using the first clutch set, even though it is purely city used. One have to remember that these cars share all the parts with their VAN counterparts, which often get very beaten up. The parts seem to be pretty heavy duty for that reason. Don't dump the clutch, change gearbox oil every 50.000km and have fun :)
@@bartosznazar Thanks for the detailed info.
I asked because I had some regards if a PSA engine is a good idea for a reliable volvo because I had some bad experience with the PSA *petrol* engines in the past.
It looks like it‘s the opposite situation with PSA diesels. The V50 with the D2 and 270 NM has so much punch which I didn’t expect from a PSA Engine.
I bought it because of the fuel consumption and wanted a reliable car (coming from a 307cc with the 1.6 NFU which has 110 HP | 150NM at ~4000 revs and used like 9 Liters per 100KM! 🤯)
150 NM vs 270 NM is quite the difference especially when both cars weight about 1450 KG for the V50 and over 1500 for the 307 😂
Whats even more surprising is the almost same amount of HP which proves that NM are more important for everyday driving like pulling from 70 KM/h to 110.
All in all I didn’t expect the engine to be punchy nor it being reliable. I bought the volvo with 180 000 KM’s on it, and now I’m about to crack the 190 000 Mark. Absolutely nothing major happened. Just checked the oil, and air filter every now and then. It didn’t used up any oil so far👍 That’s unbelievable good.
The 1.6 NFU I had ate the oil away like a maniac 👎
Conclusion: I was just curious what is possible with the updated D2. It’s a great engine so far and I think I will have fun with it for a long time. Looks like volvo made a good decision😌👍
@@firestorm780 You're right. PSA diesels are very reliable and are used by Peugeot, Citroen, Mazda, Toyota (3WZ), Volvo, Ford and Mini for a reason. And I mean 1.6HDi as well as 2.0HDi. Make frequent oil changes (max 10.000km) and enjoy the performance and longevity :) Best regards!
Hello friend, which oil is better for the 1.6 8v engine with 150,000 km?
Either Total Ineo ECS 5W30 (authorized by PSA) or Mobil 1 ESP 5W30. Both are Low SAPS oils. And the most important thing - change the oil at max 10.000km.
@@bartosznazar hello, thank you very much for your comment, buy the Total Quartz INEO HTC 5W-30. I'm looking for the difference between ECS and HTC
@@numarknumark7476 HTC is designed to work in High Temperature Countries and the main difference is higher viscosity (better in my opinion) at 100C than ECS. I would recomend it over ECS for better protection of your engine. I still personaly use Mobil 1 ESP 5W30 though.
what is the peak turbo charge pressure before and after tuning?
I don't remember what was the stock turbo pressure in my car (115HP) but today I did test some other Partner with 1.6HDi 90HP engine and it peaked at 2228 mbar stock (and kept about 2150 mbar at full gas). My car after tuning (138HP) did 2831 mbar at peak. The difference in acceleration between these cars is really huge :)
@@bartosznazar I have a Volvo V50 1.6hdi 8v (230k mileage, manual transmission) with a D4162T engine (115 hp), the peak pressure is 2550 mbar, and I wanted to know if this is the standard pressure or maybe someone has already changed it before me. Also, I heard that the difference between the 1.6hdi 16v and 1.6hdi 8v engines is that in the 8v they reduced the compression ratio and increased the turbo pressure. Thanks for feedback 🤝
Same engine but on c4 aircross, mine is running 1.7 bar stock and after remap 1.9 bar, 137 hp on BaPro dyno and 310 nm of torque. Watch out for the turbo limit on ECU, it's setted at 2.05 bar for safety, if you running the original map sensor don't go over 2 bar or your car goes into limp mode
@@vinsc4403 We are talking about same thing :) My 2831mbar is so called "absolute pressure", your 1.9 bar is called "relative to atmospheric" (where atmospheris is, let's say, 1000mbar). So we both have like 1.8-1.9bar of RELATIVE pressure and yet the same power and torque figures :) 😎😎
@@bartosznazar Did you know where i can find a 4 bar map sensor for our engine?
I have volvo v40 2014 with this exact same engine, would you recommend me doing the stage 1?
Absolutetly yes! It is a different car after the remap - more responsive, torquey and playful. The car is much safer during overtaking manouvers. The powerband is wider and that makes a big change too. I wish I made it few year earlier. Of course one should remember that abusing the car might lead to some failures (DMF, clutch, axle joints etc.). Use your head and you won't hurt the longevity of the parts. Dumping the clutch on start or driving 200km/h for hours with 1.6HDi won't do no good right? ;)
Czy warto robic tuning, gdy mam juz 260tys na liczniku?
Szczerze to chyba bym tego nie robił. Turbosprężarka czy też pompa wysokiego ciśnienia będą trochę bardziej wysilone, co po takim dystansie może nie być dla nich wskazane. Warunkowo rozpatrzyłbym tylko w wypadku regularnie i dobrze serwisowanego samochodu po wymianie turbo, wtrysków, sprzęgła itd.
rób program u mnie w robocie zrobili a ma 250tys na blacie idzie jak zły ;D