These are awesome! I make similar checkers with my cnc. You make an endgrain piece and cut the checkers out all with an endmill. I also ad a chamfer to them
nice "little" project but considering that you still used the sander for final thickness, I would've cut each piece directly on the lathe with a parting tool or a saw for faster and easier production. Also and just for fun, I would've tried to melt the lead directly into the pieces instead of flattening them since the melting point is only 621*
I've actually had success doing this with chess pieces before. Instead of melting it directly into the pieces I drilled holes of the size I needed into a sacrificial board and used it like a mold and then melted the lead into the holes and pulled them out of it with pliers. Worked great, the little cast weights popped right in and I sanded the excess metal off and capped them
I've been making a "Game of Ur" board and playing pieces. I dyed one set black and one set blue using leftover ink from my defunct inkjet printer, and then applied several coats of "PolycCrylic" water-based finish, with some more ink mixed in. l drilled patterns of holes using a 3D-printed guide and inlaid 5mm cabochons of lapis lazuli in one set and hematite in the other, and then decided to try sealing the cabs in with CA glue. I made another set with inlaid mother-of-pearl powder and fixed it in place with more CA glue. Then I coated each piece with CA glue, but I'm having trouble getting a good finish; the CA glue tends to dry somewhat bumpy and/or puckered, and I can sand it down with fine sandpaper, but that leaves a milky surface color. I'm waiting for an assortment of polishing compound I ordered to use with my Dremel tool and polishing pads, to see if I can shine them up. I thought of trying CA glue for a finish after watching Patrick Adair make rings with various things embedded in the glue; I hadn't seen anyone use it on wood until I saw your video just now. I'm curious; 1) why CA glue instead of a more traditional finish? Durability? and 2) how the heck do you not end up with the paper towel, your glove, and everything else within six inches stuck to the checker? Because that's what keeps happening to me when I try to rub it on. I've been applying the CA by just squeezing a few drops of "water thin" CA onto each face, letting surface tension (I guess) spread it out, but like I said, it leaves a very poor finish. For the playing board, I used hard maple with strips of purple heartwood forming the grid. I'm very happy with how that came out. I drew the symbols in Inkscape software, laser printed them in reverse on a sheet of paper, and then applied the paper to the board using a generous coat of PolyCrylic, letting it dry, and then wetting down the paper and rubbing it off. It worked amazingly well. Also - I think I have laser envy now.
The effect of the weights, especially because I used 2oz weights, it quite interesting. It almost feels like there's a magnetic pull on the checker when you place it on the board.
I just finished making a chessboard and chess pieces, which I added weights to. I'll definitely be making checkers pieces too, but it didn't occur to me that they would benefit from weights as well. Great idea!
You'd think "just cut some rounds and sand," but even with a heavy wood, the feel isn't that great without some extra weight. Nice process for making these.
It works well because it dries very quickly and becomes quite hard like an acrylic finish. It saves having to wait for some other kind of varnish to dry, which is important if you're applying the finish while the piece is still on the lathe.
UA-cam generates them automatically. They do a decent job, but they're far from perfect. The last thing I do before releasing a video is edit the captions to correct any errors, add in punctuation, and fix any timing issues. It typically takes me 1 - 2 hours to do that, but it's important to me to assist anyone who is hearing impaired and anyone who isn't a native English speaker.
I've not seen the Ortur brand laser engraver. The price seems really good for a lower wattage engraver. Which model/wattage did you get? How do you like it?
This is the first laser engraver that I've used, so I have nothing to compare it with. You're right about the price, so it's a low-risk investment. I have the 15W version and there's a link in the description if you want to find more information. It definitely met my needs on this project and I'll be using it on my next video, as well, where I make a box for these checkers. It is definitely a good value.
Hey Mike! I’m in Richmond as well and would love to shadow you for a few days. Obviously I would pay you for your time and the nuisance of having someone look over your shoulder! Any chance this would be possible?
Seen a couple of you videos now and i don't think i will watch anymore its frustrating .You mess around doing things in such a long away round drilling the bits one by one in a lathe when using a drill press with a jig would have been faster .All you had to do was make the blanks then just drill them on the jig instead of loading the wood up in the lather then drilling it then parting it off then repeating.. Also the first piece was so out of concentrically it triggered me 4:07. Then polishing and sanding multiple times .Very poor
Anyone else think of salami when the plugs were being cut on the band saw? Hungry now.
This was very satisfying to watch
I'm doing the same project but used magnets. Hadn't decided on how to finish, CA looks like a good option, thank you.
These are awesome! I make similar checkers with my cnc. You make an endgrain piece and cut the checkers out all with an endmill. I also ad a chamfer to them
I really like your choice of music.
Your work is really inspiring.
Fantastic job.
Excelente trabajo! Felicitaciones. Germán, Montevideo, Uruguay
These a bit larger would make for great wind chime strikers.
Beautiful and skillfully done! I feel silly cutting discs from maple dowels on my miter saw.
nice "little" project but considering that you still used the sander for final thickness, I would've cut each piece directly on the lathe with a parting tool or a saw for faster and easier production. Also and just for fun, I would've tried to melt the lead directly into the pieces instead of flattening them since the melting point is only 621*
I've actually had success doing this with chess pieces before. Instead of melting it directly into the pieces I drilled holes of the size I needed into a sacrificial board and used it like a mold and then melted the lead into the holes and pulled them out of it with pliers. Worked great, the little cast weights popped right in and I sanded the excess metal off and capped them
Really nice finished project.
Those turned out real well. gave me some ideas for some other projects. Nice job!
Amazing and patient work, calming and beautiful videos as always.
Greetings from Northern Ireland!
Really beautiful work, Mike! They look amazing! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I've been making a "Game of Ur" board and playing pieces. I dyed one set black and one set blue using leftover ink from my defunct inkjet printer, and then applied several coats of "PolycCrylic" water-based finish, with some more ink mixed in. l drilled patterns of holes using a 3D-printed guide and inlaid 5mm cabochons of lapis lazuli in one set and hematite in the other, and then decided to try sealing the cabs in with CA glue. I made another set with inlaid mother-of-pearl powder and fixed it in place with more CA glue. Then I coated each piece with CA glue, but I'm having trouble getting a good finish; the CA glue tends to dry somewhat bumpy and/or puckered, and I can sand it down with fine sandpaper, but that leaves a milky surface color. I'm waiting for an assortment of polishing compound I ordered to use with my Dremel tool and polishing pads, to see if I can shine them up. I thought of trying CA glue for a finish after watching Patrick Adair make rings with various things embedded in the glue; I hadn't seen anyone use it on wood until I saw your video just now. I'm curious; 1) why CA glue instead of a more traditional finish? Durability? and 2) how the heck do you not end up with the paper towel, your glove, and everything else within six inches stuck to the checker? Because that's what keeps happening to me when I try to rub it on. I've been applying the CA by just squeezing a few drops of "water thin" CA onto each face, letting surface tension (I guess) spread it out, but like I said, it leaves a very poor finish. For the playing board, I used hard maple with strips of purple heartwood forming the grid. I'm very happy with how that came out. I drew the symbols in Inkscape software, laser printed them in reverse on a sheet of paper, and then applied the paper to the board using a generous coat of PolyCrylic, letting it dry, and then wetting down the paper and rubbing it off. It worked amazingly well. Also - I think I have laser envy now.
Another great video, Mike 👍
Since you had the laser for your logo, you should have put a crown on the other side. Looks great.
Yes, I toyed with that idea, but the client preferred them to be plain on the top for a minimalist look.
Those came out awesome👍
Thanks! They look even more impressive when boxed. I'll have the checker box video out soon.
Magnificent and beautiful work done with a lot of love for wood.
A big greeting from Seville (Spain).
Thank you!
Nicely done Mike! (As usual)
I never thought about adding weights to checkers, I made a chess board and was and still will make some chess pieces. Nice attention to detail!
The effect of the weights, especially because I used 2oz weights, it quite interesting. It almost feels like there's a magnetic pull on the checker when you place it on the board.
@@Woodumakeit It probably also has a nice snap when you put the pieces down.
hi, it would be great if you make same type of chess pieces by drawing or carving on the circular pieces
How have your boards held up to seasonal wood movement?
I just finished making a chessboard and chess pieces, which I added weights to. I'll definitely be making checkers pieces too, but it didn't occur to me that they would benefit from weights as well. Great idea!
Maganda ngamin
Excelente trabalho.
So do you or someone in your shop make Knife handles
You'd think "just cut some rounds and sand," but even with a heavy wood, the feel isn't that great without some extra weight. Nice process for making these.
Very detailed video...thanks....but Newbie question....why CA Glue for the finish?
It works well because it dries very quickly and becomes quite hard like an acrylic finish. It saves having to wait for some other kind of varnish to dry, which is important if you're applying the finish while the piece is still on the lathe.
@@Woodumakeit Thanks for the info....very useful videos...
I’m intrigued. How do you get the subtitles on your video?
UA-cam generates them automatically. They do a decent job, but they're far from perfect. The last thing I do before releasing a video is edit the captions to correct any errors, add in punctuation, and fix any timing issues. It typically takes me 1 - 2 hours to do that, but it's important to me to assist anyone who is hearing impaired and anyone who isn't a native English speaker.
I've not seen the Ortur brand laser engraver. The price seems really good for a lower wattage engraver. Which model/wattage did you get? How do you like it?
This is the first laser engraver that I've used, so I have nothing to compare it with. You're right about the price, so it's a low-risk investment. I have the 15W version and there's a link in the description if you want to find more information. It definitely met my needs on this project and I'll be using it on my next video, as well, where I make a box for these checkers. It is definitely a good value.
What blade are you using on the bandsaw?
It's a 1" Resaw King blade from Laguna.
Hey Mike! I’m in Richmond as well and would love to shadow you for a few days. Obviously I would pay you for your time and the nuisance of having someone look over your shoulder! Any chance this would be possible?
I'm sure we could work out a time to get together. Let's wait a few weeks and see if we can turn the corner on Covid in the Richmond area.
I think I would have melted a pot of lead and poured it in. but still great work.
Great content and love your work. What’s the best way to contact you?
Feel free to email me at woodumakeit@gmail.com
5:34 is this dangerous move?
Definitely not safe, but I wanted to add some excitement into the video. 😂
Why are you using CA glue
Love the video but please stop the music!
Can you make me a chess board
Seen a couple of you videos now and i don't think i will watch anymore its frustrating .You mess around doing things in such a long away round drilling the bits one by one in a lathe when using a drill press with a jig would have been faster .All you had to do was make the blanks then just drill them on the jig instead of loading the wood up in the lather then drilling it then parting it off then repeating.. Also the first piece was so out of concentrically it triggered me 4:07. Then polishing and sanding multiple times .Very poor
sorry mike mcflurry, all these cutting and chessboards are getting stale. unsubbing but good luck and keep enjoying yourself