Really, an overlap stairnose is what would be recommended in that situation if one was available. Some companies won't warranty a flush done this way, but Shaw recommends you custom cut the planks to fit nicely against the stairnose and glue a section of the floor down to keep it secure. You lose your factory edge and bad cuts will be obvious, but it is really the only way to make it work.
Hi @markcloutier873, We unfortunately do not sell this particular stair nose anymore, but you can find others that are similar on our website znetflooring.com Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions about the flooring, and/or ordering process :)
Thank you for this helpful video! We are using corkback LVP from Coretec as well. However, our stairs are deep so we need to join 1-1.5" from another plank to fill the step. Do we need to glue down the planks onto the plywood as well? (Using the recommended Shaw 1500 adhesive).
Hello, For actual stairways, yes. You should be gluing down the planks as well, Most people do tend to use the same construction adhesive as they use for the stair nose piece though.
@@hachiroku7443 Many people go against manufacturer's recommendations and glue them down with the pad still attached, I have not heard of issues. But officially I recommend following the manufacturer's guidelines.
@@znetflooring Yes mkst people with attached pad don’t have issues… I’m gonna install stair edging anyay so it will screw down and will add nail under hoping to add security👍 Thanks!
Hi, does the flooring piece at the top have to have the locking side, or can it be cut? Trying to lay coretec in our hallway and down the stairs. Thanks!
Really they are designed to have the factory edge, but many installers do cut it on landings to be able to use the flush in those spots as well. Other wise you would need an overlap on landings and not match the other stairnose. Be aware, that not all manufacturer's will warranty using a flush on a landing piece or the top riser if going into a room with the same product installed. These floors are designed to be floating and to use a flush stairnose, the floor needs to be glued down. If use at the top riser going into an installed room, if using the flush stairnose, you would want to glue down a section of the flooring in front of the stairs. Please confirm with the manufacturer if you want to have your warranties retained.
@@delltek102 Are you wanting to bring a sample of your floor somewhere and physically try and match thickness and color? Flush stairnose might be hard to find a match, but many cities may have a company that buys closeouts, the best way to find those companies may be to ask local installers as that's where they would likely go when they fall short unexpectedly and need to finish a job. If you are in the Las Vegas area, I could point you in the right direction?
CAUTION, PLEASE READ - I have been professionally building stairs for about 25 years now and would like to mention a few things for the sake of the viewers. This video encourages to make sure that any modifications will meet building codes when you address the existing bullnose. However the product being using here does NOT meet the international residential code and therefore most likely will not meet most local building codes being that they are all based on the IRC. The code specifically says the radius of the bull nose can not exceed 9/16". I don't remember what it is on Coretex products but when I previously installed it, it was greater than 9/16" radius. That does not meet code. Second, many of the bullnoses produced by flooring companies also do not meet the requirement for the nosing projection either. It must be at least 3/4" and no greater than 1-1/4" , unless your tread depth is greater than 11" then you don't need a nosing projection at all. And finally, by adding height to the risers and not the same height to the bottom and top floors you are potentially breaking code again. You can only have a variance of 3/8" throughout the entire flight of stairs. This one OFTEN gets ignored and MANY residential stairs have been modified and made dangerous because of this. I see it all the time. Flooring companies are making and selling this stuff to make money, They do NOT have your best interest at heart. They make no attempt to educate people of the dangers of using their products, because if they did their sales would drop. People die every year from falling down stairs, or get seriously injured, that is why these codes exist. Surprisingly, even most inspectors don't understand all the codes on stairs and handrails. I'm redoing a stairs on a 20 yr old house right now and the stairs never meet code from the beginning, but it was inspected and passed. I see this frequently. It's sad. Please before you attempt to modify your stairs consult a specialist. You need someone who builds stairs for a living. Not a flooring guy (they generally know the least about the codes) and not even a framing carpenter, they often layout stairs wrong in new construction. Not even all finish carpenters do stairs. Its usually the most experience carpenter on finish crew that does it. You really do need a stair builder that understands the local codes and there are MANY on stair building and has years of experience. I worked on a finish crew for about 12 years before I graduated to doing stairs full time on my own. You really do want someone who knows what their doing to be safe.
Hello, I do appreciate your comments. I believe all the requirements you stated are true, but I also believe most flooring products meet those requirements as long as installed properly. Both looking up the code you are referencing and measuring the products I have sitting next to me, I believe everything falls within requirements. However, I do encourage people to do their own research. The stair nose pieces I have next to me are not COREtec, but I believe they are quite similar, the radius of the curvature was well below 9/16" for most. The ones with a curvature that looked large still was about 7/16" The code I read (and I believe you said the same), said treads should be 10" or more, if under 11" they need a bullnose with a projection that should be .75"-1.25". It appeared their tread measured a tad over 10" and I believe most stair nose pieces have a projection of 3/4", I do have one in front of me that measures 1 1/8". The one in the video looks within requirements, but I cannot measure it personally. The riser variance is a real concern sometimes, but not if you have the same flooring on the bottom and top floors. The 2 situations I see this is a problem often, is thin hard surface on the stairs and thick carpet upstairs, or a thick stone downstairs with the thin hard surface on the stairs. I think most other situations fall within the allowance more times than not. However it is best to check physically when on site. This is probably a violation most often due to people doing the downstairs and stairs in vinyl plank and doing the upstairs in carpet. I really like to suggest people do the upstairs hall in the same hard surface material as the stairs and down. I do not think there is an easy solution for the thick stone down stairs. You are correct that flooring guys often do not know much about code. They even quote fake code, such as cutting the overhang to be flush with the riser will violate code, which I have not seen except in really old houses or when I lived in Georgia, I saw it ALL the time -as the treads typically are still well within the required size. BUT when the treads are short, especially with extra tall risers, makes for a dangerous situation! I might order a COREtec stair nose to be shipped to me just to confirm the radius of the curvature.... Thank you again, I enjoyed looking things up and measuring!
@@znetflooring Where I am at carpet does not play a roll in riser height. Versa trim makes a nosing that barely projections out 3/8". And I see MANY stair nosing that meet code but are only 3/4" thick when MOST stairs treads are 1" or 1-1/2" if carpeted. Not sure why flooring companies can't make a thick nosing to match what in most likely elsewhere in the homes already. I realize that is purely an esthetic thing, but come on. I often see a wimply 3/4" thick nosing at the top of a flight of stairs that has 1-1/16" thick treads. It looks horrible. Everybody knows there hardly ever is a tread made these days that is only 3/4" thick and hasn't been one in production for probably 100 yrs who knows, so why make a bull nose just 3/4" doesn't make sense. Also if the Coretec tread has less than a 9/16" radius then it was a projection less than 3/4" (it's been a while now, I just know it did not meet code, I actually think it was both). I had to use them on a open ended stairs and the projection on the returns determined where the projection on the front landed. Another complain for the Cortect or any other hollow vinyl tread is when tightening down balusters the product will often crush when they land over a hollow section. It's important that the baluster be tight & snug to add strength to the entire stair system and to prevent them from spinning out of alignment. They make them with returns, so they know they're being used on open end stairs and therefore need balusters. Don't these companies ever try out their products. Oh and another BIG complaint It have is the attaching a nosing over LVP on a tread. It may not be against code, but who in the world thought that is a good idea. They look horrible, they scream cheap, often come off and become a trip hazard and are a HUGE dust collector. How in the world is a person suppose to sweep down their stairs when they have them on? Really. I have more complaints but I'll stop there. I don't want to come off as being negative. Just think people should be informed of all the issues and from my experience dealing with this all the time, they're not.
@@t.e.1189 I agree about Versatrim (their overlap pieces anyways), and putting aside the few things I believe we differ on, I absolutely believe there is lots of room for improvement. I think you might be interested in a company called Treads Plus in Utah, we are working on adding more of their stuff to our site.... I like what they are doing with their custom made vinyl plank stair nose.
Good job brother best vid on installation I seen so far 👍
How do you install a stair nose on the top stair when the flooring planks are perpendicular (rather than parallel) to the stair nose?
Really, an overlap stairnose is what would be recommended in that situation if one was available.
Some companies won't warranty a flush done this way, but Shaw recommends you custom cut the planks to fit nicely against the stairnose and glue a section of the floor down to keep it secure. You lose your factory edge and bad cuts will be obvious, but it is really the only way to make it work.
@@znetflooring Thank you!! I greatly appreciate your suggestions.
Will the shaw flush stair nose work with 6.5mm lifeproof flooring?
Hello,
Unfortunately, that brand is exclusive to a major big box chain, I do not have access to the data.
Great video. Can you post a link to the stairnose LVP product you are using?
Hi @markcloutier873,
We unfortunately do not sell this particular stair nose anymore, but you can find others that are similar on our website znetflooring.com
Please feel free to contact us if you have any questions about the flooring, and/or ordering process :)
Is there a certain floor you are trying to coordinate with?
@@znetflooring Not yet. I would like a match between the nosing and the rest of the vinyl flooring however. Favoring a lighter tan color.
Thank you for this helpful video! We are using corkback LVP from Coretec as well. However, our stairs are deep so we need to join 1-1.5" from another plank to fill the step. Do we need to glue down the planks onto the plywood as well? (Using the recommended Shaw 1500 adhesive).
Hello,
For actual stairways, yes. You should be gluing down the planks as well, Most people do tend to use the same construction adhesive as they use for the stair nose piece though.
Where do you get that stair nose?
Hello,
That is a Shaw vinyl flush stair nose. Do you know what floor you are trying to match?
My vinyl plank has attached backing pad can I use it on stairs???? Thanks
I would check with the manufacturer, some brands have a special glue, some ask that you scrap off the pad.
@@znetflooring It was pain in the ass to scratch up the attach pad🤦 I just thought if you glue it will hold up good.
@@hachiroku7443 Many people go against manufacturer's recommendations and glue them down with the pad still attached, I have not heard of issues. But officially I recommend following the manufacturer's guidelines.
@@znetflooring Yes mkst people with attached pad don’t have issues… I’m gonna install stair edging anyay so it will screw down and will add nail under hoping to add security👍 Thanks!
Anybody come up with a good way to do these on the top riser yet?
You can find that at the end of the video: ua-cam.com/video/FiwJtKWIGJk/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared&t=264
Hi, does the flooring piece at the top have to have the locking side, or can it be cut? Trying to lay coretec in our hallway and down the stairs. Thanks!
Really they are designed to have the factory edge, but many installers do cut it on landings to be able to use the flush in those spots as well. Other wise you would need an overlap on landings and not match the other stairnose.
Be aware, that not all manufacturer's will warranty using a flush on a landing piece or the top riser if going into a room with the same product installed.
These floors are designed to be floating and to use a flush stairnose, the floor needs to be glued down. If use at the top riser going into an installed room, if using the flush stairnose, you would want to glue down a section of the flooring in front of the stairs.
Please confirm with the manufacturer if you want to have your warranties retained.
Where can I find flush stairnose for pergo vienna oak, or lifeproof banff gray hickory ? Thanks!
Hello,
Those look like either exclusives or a renamed product for a large nation brick and mortar retailer.
@@znetflooring where can I find large selection of flush stair noses
@@delltek102
Are you wanting to bring a sample of your floor somewhere and physically try and match thickness and color?
Flush stairnose might be hard to find a match, but many cities may have a company that buys closeouts, the best way to find those companies may be to ask local installers as that's where they would likely go when they fall short unexpectedly and need to finish a job.
If you are in the Las Vegas area, I could point you in the right direction?
I am in queens, ny
CAUTION, PLEASE READ - I have been professionally building stairs for about 25 years now and would like to mention a few things for the sake of the viewers. This video encourages to make sure that any modifications will meet building codes when you address the existing bullnose. However the product being using here does NOT meet the international residential code and therefore most likely will not meet most local building codes being that they are all based on the IRC.
The code specifically says the radius of the bull nose can not exceed 9/16". I don't remember what it is on Coretex products but when I previously installed it, it was greater than 9/16" radius. That does not meet code.
Second, many of the bullnoses produced by flooring companies also do not meet the requirement for the nosing projection either. It must be at least 3/4" and no greater than 1-1/4" , unless your tread depth is greater than 11" then you don't need a nosing projection at all.
And finally, by adding height to the risers and not the same height to the bottom and top floors you are potentially breaking code again. You can only have a variance of 3/8" throughout the entire flight of stairs. This one OFTEN gets ignored and MANY residential stairs have been modified and made dangerous because of this. I see it all the time.
Flooring companies are making and selling this stuff to make money, They do NOT have your best interest at heart. They make no attempt to educate people of the dangers of using their products, because if they did their sales would drop. People die every year from falling down stairs, or get seriously injured, that is why these codes exist.
Surprisingly, even most inspectors don't understand all the codes on stairs and handrails. I'm redoing a stairs on a 20 yr old house right now and the stairs never meet code from the beginning, but it was inspected and passed. I see this frequently. It's sad.
Please before you attempt to modify your stairs consult a specialist. You need someone who builds stairs for a living. Not a flooring guy (they generally know the least about the codes) and not even a framing carpenter, they often layout stairs wrong in new construction. Not even all finish carpenters do stairs. Its usually the most experience carpenter on finish crew that does it. You really do need a stair builder that understands the local codes and there are MANY on stair building and has years of experience. I worked on a finish crew for about 12 years before I graduated to doing stairs full time on my own. You really do want someone who knows what their doing to be safe.
Hello,
I do appreciate your comments. I believe all the requirements you stated are true, but I also believe most flooring products meet those requirements as long as installed properly.
Both looking up the code you are referencing and measuring the products I have sitting next to me, I believe everything falls within requirements. However, I do encourage people to do their own research.
The stair nose pieces I have next to me are not COREtec, but I believe they are quite similar, the radius of the curvature was well below 9/16" for most. The ones with a curvature that looked large still was about 7/16"
The code I read (and I believe you said the same), said treads should be 10" or more, if under 11" they need a bullnose with a projection that should be .75"-1.25". It appeared their tread measured a tad over 10" and I believe most stair nose pieces have a projection of 3/4", I do have one in front of me that measures 1 1/8". The one in the video looks within requirements, but I cannot measure it personally.
The riser variance is a real concern sometimes, but not if you have the same flooring on the bottom and top floors. The 2 situations I see this is a problem often, is thin hard surface on the stairs and thick carpet upstairs, or a thick stone downstairs with the thin hard surface on the stairs. I think most other situations fall within the allowance more times than not. However it is best to check physically when on site. This is probably a violation most often due to people doing the downstairs and stairs in vinyl plank and doing the upstairs in carpet. I really like to suggest people do the upstairs hall in the same hard surface material as the stairs and down. I do not think there is an easy solution for the thick stone down stairs.
You are correct that flooring guys often do not know much about code. They even quote fake code, such as cutting the overhang to be flush with the riser will violate code, which I have not seen except in really old houses or when I lived in Georgia, I saw it ALL the time -as the treads typically are still well within the required size. BUT when the treads are short, especially with extra tall risers, makes for a dangerous situation!
I might order a COREtec stair nose to be shipped to me just to confirm the radius of the curvature....
Thank you again, I enjoyed looking things up and measuring!
@@znetflooring Where I am at carpet does not play a roll in riser height.
Versa trim makes a nosing that barely projections out 3/8". And I see MANY stair nosing that meet code but are only 3/4" thick when MOST stairs treads are 1" or 1-1/2" if carpeted. Not sure why flooring companies can't make a thick nosing to match what in most likely elsewhere in the homes already. I realize that is purely an esthetic thing, but come on. I often see a wimply 3/4" thick nosing at the top of a flight of stairs that has 1-1/16" thick treads. It looks horrible. Everybody knows there hardly ever is a tread made these days that is only 3/4" thick and hasn't been one in production for probably 100 yrs who knows, so why make a bull nose just 3/4" doesn't make sense.
Also if the Coretec tread has less than a 9/16" radius then it was a projection less than 3/4" (it's been a while now, I just know it did not meet code, I actually think it was both). I had to use them on a open ended stairs and the projection on the returns determined where the projection on the front landed. Another complain for the Cortect or any other hollow vinyl tread is when tightening down balusters the product will often crush when they land over a hollow section. It's important that the baluster be tight & snug to add strength to the entire stair system and to prevent them from spinning out of alignment. They make them with returns, so they know they're being used on open end stairs and therefore need balusters. Don't these companies ever try out their products.
Oh and another BIG complaint It have is the attaching a nosing over LVP on a tread. It may not be against code, but who in the world thought that is a good idea. They look horrible, they scream cheap, often come off and become a trip hazard and are a HUGE dust collector. How in the world is a person suppose to sweep down their stairs when they have them on? Really.
I have more complaints but I'll stop there. I don't want to come off as being negative. Just think people should be informed of all the issues and from my experience dealing with this all the time, they're not.
@@t.e.1189
I agree about Versatrim (their overlap pieces anyways), and putting aside the few things I believe we differ on, I absolutely believe there is lots of room for improvement.
I think you might be interested in a company called Treads Plus in Utah, we are working on adding more of their stuff to our site.... I like what they are doing with their custom made vinyl plank stair nose.
What's the name of those nose your using
Hello,
This is a flush stairnose by Shaw or Coretec.
🤝🤝🤝