@@NoizieWorksin coreXY printers the print happens in the upper part of the case and having the heater at the top wouldn't do just what you were trying to avoid (blowing directly at the print)?
@@NoizieWorksOh OK, you are correct I didn't realize it was in fact resin printer 😎👍 Btw. I admire resourcefulness and skill set when it comes to thinkering, your videos are always interesting and helpful... Keep on keeping on my friend and thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
I want to add that installing some kind of fuse is gonna be a good idea and if you pass the wire through the metal to use a rubber grommet to protect the wire not like i did. Pinky promise i'm going to do all of that 🤞
@@NoizieWorks ua-cam.com/video/h_vVgom2aQ0/v-deo.html I used 2 heaters in my Jupiter. I realize at first that when one heater heats up and turn off, not all the inner case have the same temperature. It takes a longer time. With the two heater, one on each side, I was able to maintain a balance temperature. This may not be the case for everyone, because I live in a section of Canada where it is cold. I use an SFX PSU because it is tiny, and I can print a mount for it later. I'm also working on a filter that I may need to power from the PSU also.
Nice !! Would also love to see a video about the ThermalvatBand.. i hear some good things about it to.. 😃 Im thinking about buying one of those for my M3 Max
it should be possible to connect this to the heated chamber interface points on the printer mainboard and use the hardware/software to control the chamber temps automatically. Correct me if I'm wrong but if the board has the I/O for it I can't see a reason not to use it.
Hi there, how did you find out your fan was DC powered? Mine comes with no visible elements indicating it and I ordered a 220V AC kit that came with PTC and fan already assembled.
It was on the box it came in, not sure but somebody told me it could be ac/dc fan but i don't think that's possible. Best off replacing the fan or like i did make/buy a rectifier to solve it. Very cheap diy and still works like a charm.
lol amazon NL finally something in my own country. I will watch later and hope it's doable for me and elect newb. I don't know if I can find the right tool but I'm very afraid to drill and such all the metal falling into the printer chamber. Will see if you made a solution in another video where you made the ventilation. Maybe tape and a cup etc. I don't have anyone to help me vaccuum etc.
You can put in a towel to catch the metal or blow it out, you can use a 12/24v powersupply and look for those componentd instead of going 220 like i did
@@FrancisArthurFotografie Ik weet het, waar ergens in NL? Ik ben een Belg die random tshirts draagt 🤔 krijg ik wel veel te horen🙂 zal door de baard zijn
@@NoizieWorks Zuid-Holland in de buurt van Den Haag. Ken je mensen die kunnen helpen met de FDM :) Moet eigenlijk verkopen maar in onderdelen is het al helemaal weinig waard :\
Hey Noizie! I installed your heater and it works amazing! Running into a small problem now though lol I also installed a carbon filter through the back exhaust and the heater can't keep up. Any suggestions?
Precies wat ik nodig heb voor mijn 3D printer. Zou ik bij jouw eventueel een kant en klare geassembleerde set kunnen bestellen zodat ik het alleen nog maar in de stopcontact hoef te steken? Momenteel met een pasgeboren baby kom ik eigenlijk nergens meer aan toe qua tijd.
Hello, I watched the video and it was very helpful. I also purchased the same PTC fan heater as you (DC fan and AC heater) and plan to combine it with a 220V STC-1000. What kind of diode is used in the rectifier shown in the video? (Is there a purchase link?)
I bought 1000v diodes but now you can get them for cheap on amazon. Here is a example for you: www.amazon.com/Taiss-KBPC5010-Rectifier-Warranty-KBPC50-10/dp/B07JC3Z79N/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=3DN0XHFN9UKKY&keywords=ac+to+dc+rectifier&qid=1704768140&sprefix=ac+to+dc+rectifier%2Caps%2C209&sr=8-5
@@NoizieWorks Does one KBPC5010 play the same role as the resin rectifier shown in the video? Thank you so much for the answer and link!! It was very helpful.
Best location for a heater in on the bottom of the case. Hot air is lighter than cold and rizes up creating natural convection effect in the case.
I didn't want it to blow on the print as this puts out 60+c
@@NoizieWorksin coreXY printers the print happens in the upper part of the case and having the heater at the top wouldn't do just what you were trying to avoid (blowing directly at the print)?
@photo_n_art In my example it's for a resin printer so you can put it wherever you want for your use case
@@NoizieWorksOh OK, you are correct I didn't realize it was in fact resin printer 😎👍
Btw. I admire resourcefulness and skill set when it comes to thinkering, your videos are always interesting and helpful... Keep on keeping on my friend and thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
with a fan mixing the air it shouldnt be a big problem
I want to add that installing some kind of fuse is gonna be a good idea and if you pass the wire through the metal to use a rubber grommet to protect the wire not like i did. Pinky promise i'm going to do all of that 🤞
Very nice. The only thing I don't like is drilling the 3d printer. Therefore I made a cabinet for my printer and installed the heater inside.
Good solution! Love it
Awesome, I got my Jupiter last Friday, I am currently doing a form of heating implementation, will post the picture link when am done
Feel free to share!
@@NoizieWorks ua-cam.com/video/h_vVgom2aQ0/v-deo.html I used 2 heaters in my Jupiter. I realize at first that when one heater heats up and turn off, not all the inner case have the same temperature. It takes a longer time. With the two heater, one on each side, I was able to maintain a balance temperature. This may not be the case for everyone, because I live in a section of Canada where it is cold. I use an SFX PSU because it is tiny, and I can print a mount for it later. I'm also working on a filter that I may need to power from the PSU also.
Thanks for sharing, will check it out
Nice !! Would also love to see a video about the ThermalvatBand.. i hear some good things about it to.. 😃 Im thinking about buying one of those for my M3 Max
Great idea! It's on the list
Thank you sir
it should be possible to connect this to the heated chamber interface points on the printer mainboard and use the hardware/software to control the chamber temps automatically. Correct me if I'm wrong but if the board has the I/O for it I can't see a reason not to use it.
Could work but i try to keep it user friendly aka no clue how that would work.
Hi there, how did you find out your fan was DC powered? Mine comes with no visible elements indicating it and I ordered a 220V AC kit that came with PTC and fan already assembled.
It was on the box it came in, not sure but somebody told me it could be ac/dc fan but i don't think that's possible. Best off replacing the fan or like i did make/buy a rectifier to solve it. Very cheap diy and still works like a charm.
lol amazon NL finally something in my own country. I will watch later and hope it's doable for me and elect newb.
I don't know if I can find the right tool but I'm very afraid to drill and such all the metal falling into the printer chamber. Will see if you made a solution in another video where you made the ventilation. Maybe tape and a cup etc.
I don't have anyone to help me vaccuum etc.
You can put in a towel to catch the metal or blow it out, you can use a 12/24v powersupply and look for those componentd instead of going 220 like i did
Btw were you from?
@@NoizieWorks NL The Netherlands :) Er du Norsk or just wearing a T-shirt as Dutchman :)
@@FrancisArthurFotografie Ik weet het, waar ergens in NL? Ik ben een Belg die random tshirts draagt 🤔 krijg ik wel veel te horen🙂 zal door de baard zijn
@@NoizieWorks Zuid-Holland in de buurt van Den Haag. Ken je mensen die kunnen helpen met de FDM :)
Moet eigenlijk verkopen maar in onderdelen is het al helemaal weinig waard :\
Hey Noizie! I installed your heater and it works amazing! Running into a small problem now though lol I also installed a carbon filter through the back exhaust and the heater can't keep up. Any suggestions?
Thanks dude, well i don't run my exhaust during printing. Only for start and cleanups. It actualy holds in the smell decently.
Precies wat ik nodig heb voor mijn 3D printer.
Zou ik bij jouw eventueel een kant en klare geassembleerde set kunnen bestellen zodat ik het alleen nog maar in de stopcontact hoef te steken? Momenteel met een pasgeboren baby kom ik eigenlijk nergens meer aan toe qua tijd.
Als het niet dringend is kan ik wel 1tje maken.
Stuur mij eens een mailtje of berichtje op facebook. Proficiat trouwens met de baby!
@@NoizieWorks Dankjewel voor de felicitatie en dat ik deze voor mij wilt maken, ik heb u een bericht gestuurd op instagram.👍
Hello, I watched the video and it was very helpful.
I also purchased the same PTC fan heater as you (DC fan and AC heater) and plan to combine it with a 220V STC-1000.
What kind of diode is used in the rectifier shown in the video? (Is there a purchase link?)
I bought 1000v diodes but now you can get them for cheap on amazon. Here is a example for you: www.amazon.com/Taiss-KBPC5010-Rectifier-Warranty-KBPC50-10/dp/B07JC3Z79N/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=3DN0XHFN9UKKY&keywords=ac+to+dc+rectifier&qid=1704768140&sprefix=ac+to+dc+rectifier%2Caps%2C209&sr=8-5
@@NoizieWorks Does one KBPC5010 play the same role as the resin rectifier shown in the video?
Thank you so much for the answer and link!!
It was very helpful.
@hooni_kang yes it's the same 😄 no need to solder and poor epoxy
I found a way to include a HEPA filter in the original filter. ua-cam.com/video/avP7IBd7jVA/v-deo.html
To bad the airflow on these things suck and not in a good way 😅