I know I keep saying this over and over and over that you are simply one amazing young lady, but seriously you are one amazing young lady this is an awesome project...
You are AMAZING!!! I've been researching the best way to assemble a Mandalorian Helmet i'm printing in pieces, and this definitely seems like the best technique! Thank you SO MUCH
I find having a 3D pen to hand is helpful for doing joins. I’d stick it with glue gun, use the pen to add some plastic down the seam and then smooth with the burner before sanding. Works nicely
P.S. Found your previous video w/ the Fusion 360. Looking forward to checking it out. FYI, I use/teach Fusion 360, regularly. In fact, started in 3D Studio DOS Release 2 back in early 90's! Currently, I spend most of my time at Factur makerspace in Orlando, FL where I am the 3D Specialist, and Laser Specialist, plus I maintain/repair the equipment. Busy, busy! Lots of fun:)
Still haven't decided what sort of look to go with. Realistic would be cool, but the model is more stylized. I do have an airbrush I need to try out though.
@@LindyDesignLab For example, something stylized like ua-cam.com/video/DpiCr_zBUnk/v-deo.html can look great and just needs some airbrush shading to tie it all together.
Great video. I find it easier to use spare filament to fill the seams with the woodturner instead of scrap parts, hold the filament along the seam line and just melt it into the seam with the wood-burner. A bottle of CA accelerator is also helpful if you don't want to wait for the CA glue to set. Just glue, hold and spray, it let's you bypass using clamps.
Your work is AMAZING! What would be a nice enhancement to this dragon would be led lights in the eyes and mouth. Hooked up so that when opened, the lights and mouth light up. this could be achieved using a small micro switch that is normally open. When you open the latch, it switches to closed position and turns on the lights. Just a thought.
@@LindyDesignLab LOL ... Then you would have to hook up a small fog machine to it. Then, when the mouth opens and the fog starts to come out, you can have yellow and orange LED lights twinkling and it would look like fire.
Well done ! Though I have one suggestion, well maybe two, from my personal experience. Get yourself a soldering iron with a temperature control ( they are cheap this days). Than use the same filament you are using for printing to make your welding seams. With the temperature controlled soldering iron you can get a fantastic job!!
Glad it's been helpful. I'd probably do 2 coats, sand and then a third coat if necessary or even pour one final clear thick and glossy coat as a final finish if that made sense for the design. Depends on if the model has fine details which can get lost in multiple coats, also on the shape of the model as to how thick you can get it in each coat without it running off.
hi I used xtc 3d and had great result although in big projects you dont have enough time to cover the part . the other epoxy you havehavent tried it is it holding well on surfaces that are not flat ? does it starts going downwards in a vertical surface ?
Yeah, the XTC has a shorter working time than table top epoxy. Any resin will flow on a vertical surface and be thinner than the horizontal surfaces, so multiple thin coats is the way to go.
Amazing work and guide :) You could try using a superglue activator spray to anchor the pieces together, even just a quick spray at either end of the joints as the rest of the superglue sets :)
I really appreciate the fact that she went directly into the process instead of beating around the bush for 10 minutes
Need more content creators like this. It was informative from the literal first moment and continued to provide details.
From an Engineer and Journeyman Machinist, I am impressed by your skills.
Modeling and printing game is on point. Fantastic project!
I know I keep saying this over and over and over that you are simply one amazing young lady, but seriously you are one amazing young lady this is an awesome project...
she aint a young lady :)
@@Draeber Oh really, then what is she?
@@Draeber She may be older than you but she is half my age so to me she will always be a young lady... Just saying...
I'm an industrial designer with almost 15 years of experience.. you are a badass. That's all Imma say.
I am so glad you made these videos to show the process. I bought your design to make and am super grateful for your hard work showing everything!!!
Wow outstanding job . The way you explained was excellent so thank you .
You're very welcome and I'm glad it was helpful.
wow your skills are way beyond most of the youtubers. adding thanks!
You are AMAZING!!! I've been researching the best way to assemble a Mandalorian Helmet i'm printing in pieces, and this definitely seems like the best technique! Thank you SO MUCH
I’m also making a Mandalorian helmet in pieces too. I’m at the sanding stage right now. This looks like the best way to get a smooth finish
I find having a 3D pen to hand is helpful for doing joins. I’d stick it with glue gun, use the pen to add some plastic down the seam and then smooth with the burner before sanding. Works nicely
I've never seen the heat gun technique! Thats a smoother transition than what I get on my seams. Thanks a lot!
Great techniques! Thx for sharing. All your hard work and time are paying off. Looking forward to seeing final painted version!...
P.S. Found your previous video w/ the Fusion 360. Looking forward to checking it out. FYI, I use/teach Fusion 360, regularly. In fact, started in 3D Studio DOS Release 2 back in early 90's! Currently, I spend most of my time at Factur makerspace in Orlando, FL where I am the 3D Specialist, and Laser Specialist, plus I maintain/repair the equipment. Busy, busy! Lots of fun:)
Wow..my yaw drops further than the dragons..
Amazing work !
I'm amazed that you modeled this in Fusion.
Probably not the best tool for the job, but it sure is a nice program for the mechanical elements.
i had sen Bill at punished props show that melting filament with a wood burner thing, and had assumed PLA was too low of a temp for it , Awesome!
As long as the heat tool has an adjustable temperature, the method works on any plastic.
This is looking good. Nice work with the epoxy and dye.
Amazing work, as usual!
Thanks for sharing your workflow with us.
Hope you'll take your time and go the airbrush shading route.
Still haven't decided what sort of look to go with. Realistic would be cool, but the model is more stylized. I do have an airbrush I need to try out though.
@@LindyDesignLab For example, something stylized like ua-cam.com/video/DpiCr_zBUnk/v-deo.html can look great and just needs some airbrush shading to tie it all together.
Great video. I find it easier to use spare filament to fill the seams with the woodturner instead of scrap parts, hold the filament along the seam line and just melt it into the seam with the wood-burner. A bottle of CA accelerator is also helpful if you don't want to wait for the CA glue to set. Just glue, hold and spray, it let's you bypass using clamps.
Well...after seeing this I’m going to start making EVERYYHiNG I can now 😎 very inspirational and badass!
This was so cool!
thanks for the video, i was thinking about buying a wood burner, now i will buy one S2
Pardon the #DadJoke, but the final results of this build are ...jaw-dropping. 😂
truly smacking :P
nice work love to see how you menace this
I know it's a couple years late, but springs can typically be stretched a bit to make them longer and hence more resistant :)
Your work is AMAZING! What would be a nice enhancement to this dragon would be led lights in the eyes and mouth. Hooked up so that when opened, the lights and mouth light up. this could be achieved using a small micro switch that is normally open. When you open the latch, it switches to closed position and turns on the lights.
Just a thought.
That would be fun. Maybe a version for Halloween.
@@LindyDesignLab LOL ... Then you would have to hook up a small fog machine to it. Then, when the mouth opens and the fog starts to come out, you can have yellow and orange LED lights twinkling and it would look like fire.
beautiful work!
Well done ! Though I have one suggestion, well maybe two, from my personal experience. Get yourself a soldering iron with a temperature control ( they are cheap this days). Than use the same filament you are using for printing to make your welding seams. With the temperature controlled soldering iron you can get a fantastic job!!
Isn't that essentially what she did? Clearly the wood burner has temperature controls... she said find a temperature that won't burn the plastic...
I am always blown away by your projects and shear skill. I've learned so much just from watching you work and I thank you many times over
Glad it's been helpful. I'd probably do 2 coats, sand and then a third coat if necessary or even pour one final clear thick and glossy coat as a final finish if that made sense for the design. Depends on if the model has fine details which can get lost in multiple coats, also on the shape of the model as to how thick you can get it in each coat without it running off.
best benefit to using ABS is you can make a abs glue slurry that work very well. you can use the slurry on any abs plastic piece.
That's freaking dope.
You are amazing
I wanna see more techniques on making moulds for composite parts
the weld tip, my head 2 much info in 1 video. This helps a lot. thank you.
Great, you're welcome.
super cool !
Were you an industrial designer?? We use alot of these techniques when we are creating final models for products!
Cool. Interior architecture educational background.
I just bought a wood burner and would like to use it to weld a pla piece. What temp do you recommend?
LOVE It!
hi I used xtc 3d and had great result although in big projects you dont have enough time to cover the part . the other epoxy you havehavent tried it is it holding well on surfaces that are not flat ? does it starts going downwards in a vertical surface ?
Yeah, the XTC has a shorter working time than table top epoxy. Any resin will flow on a vertical surface and be thinner than the horizontal surfaces, so multiple thin coats is the way to go.
Lindy you are fucking amazing, i wouldn't have even though about using scrap prints to use as ''pla filler'
i use 3d pen and epoxi glue
Amazing work and guide :) You could try using a superglue activator spray to anchor the pieces together, even just a quick spray at either end of the joints as the rest of the superglue sets :)
That would probably make it easier.
What speed do you have the Dremel?
What’s your opinion on friction welding? With a piece of filament on a drill.
Doesn't work for a lot of filaments.
What resparator do you use? And where did you buy it
Typically a aandard 3M respirator with dust filter or organic vapor filter depending on the job. Got it on Amazon because I needed size small.
Can a 3d pen with filament be used instead of heat gun
Effective for filling gaps but less so for making a strong bond.
what temperature do you use for pla?
Typically 220 for the proto pasta matte fiber HTPLA.
Is this resin or fdm?
Fdm
do an alien head version :D
I know this is an old vide but you would be better off using a 3d printer pen. easier to smoth out and easier to apply!