When you print in Vase mode using a .4 nozzle bump your line width up to .6. it pushes more material and will make the walls way thicker and fill the holes. I make lots of Vase's and this works wicked.
I saw a vid a week or so back where someone was vase printing with extreme line widths. Amazingly they had good results with line widths many times the nozzle width. Like 2mm with a 0.4mm nozzle. The line width was even wider than the flat part of the nozzle. The secret seemed to be increasing the layer height to maintain a 5:2 ratio or something like that. Annoyingly I can't find the vid now or I'd post a link.
I imagine that if you could smell it when it was running, it would mean that it's a massive fire hazard. Definitely don't want to run it partially open in any way. Deadpool slowly rotating in a toxic alcohol mist is very on brand, good choice.
For some reason I thought you were taking about fans as in people, not fans as in spinny fluid movers the first time I read your comment XD It reeeeaaly changes the meaning
Just a PSA, PolySmooth(tm) is a PVB blend, if you wanna find some generic. Not all blends are created equal, but I generally encourage people to understand the polymers they are using better, and rely less on trademarks
I literally always have isopropyl alcohol. It's what I always use to clean my computers and my pipes. works great! I also keep it in a spray bottle so I wouldn't even need that fancy mist machine, just patience.
apparently Polysmooth (and any PVB filament like the new prusament stuff) once smoothed, you're meant to just leave it for a week to gain the full strength and not tacky-ness
I've had amazing results with acetone smoothing by doing multiple short passes and letting them dry for a few minutes in between. Curious to see if the polysher would have the same effect.
Agreed, multiple short cycles prevent the solvent penetrating the surface too deeply. Should work just the same with this, though doing this manually on this rather gimmicky machine looks like it would be a pain. It's something the manufacturers should consider though, along with getting rid of the silly rising platform.
One option: (only for prints that are basic, or mostly flat edged. (parts, tools, vases etc) If you have a hot air station, you can set the air gun temp, just above the nozzle temp, and give the edges a short blast of hot air in an equal manner. That does eliminate a lot of the layering, although you need a silicone mat, and have to do short blasts to avoid warping.
The problem I see with polysmooth is it requires being in a dry box. I am not a fan of filament that needs special care while it is just setting there! I will stick with my method of using Bondo plastic metal and filler primer. That way I can use a really strong filament and not have to babysit it and buy even more absurdly priced things like that Polysher which I am sorry for the super simple thing it does is so grossly overpriced it goes beyond absurd!
There seems to be a lot of people that confuse MEK with Methylene Chloride. MEK does not smooth PLA in any useful way, it just makes it soft and rubbery. Usefull for clearing out a clogged hot end after a good soaking, but not much else. Methylene Chloride does have a useable smoothing action on PLA, but unlike MEK it is a very toxic chemical. This is the stuff that was removed from paint stripper some years ago, and why modern paint strippers are useless.
@@ferrumignis if you are talking about DCM, yes, considering that it is a powerful organic solvant, still commony used in labs, it should smoothe PLA. It is however toxic to inhale, although less toxic than most Organic-Chloride Compositions
It also turns out that while Acetone and MEK are great solvants for alkane based plastics such as ABS, they are quite ineffective when working with PLA
Isopropyl alcohol (or acetone) has no effect on PLA, or at least no smoothing effect. Actually acetone mist kind of messed up my PLA jigs I used to hold my ABS parts in a vapour chamber, but they just got deformed and discoloured, they didn't get any more smooth.
My vote is to test the strength of the stuff before and after smoothing. Maybe compare it to a popular PLA too. I know, there are 34 channels doing that type of stuff, but you have the fancy vapor elevator for this one case. The smoothing filament could be useful for more than cosmetics if the physical characteristics are different and desirable in some way over PLA. I know PETG, ABS, Nylon, and carbon blends all have some advantages but they often are only marginally better. Plus they often have significant negatives; stuff like hot end limitations, fumes, enclosures ... If this stuff is reasonably safe and easy to print it might make up 90% of the difference.
When you print in Vase mode using a .4 nozzle bump your line width up to .6. it pushes more material and will make the walls way thicker and fill the holes. I make lots of Vase's and this works wicked.
I've been doing a fair bit of single-wall printing and find I have no problems with things being watertight. Just picked up an old failed print (failed halfway up) that is single perimeter with no infill... and poured some water in and sure enough, no leaks even with some rather complex curving and overhanging geometry. I suspect what makes it work well for me is that I'm using 0.05mm layer height for my single perimeter prints. Finer layer height means more horizontal overlap from one layer to the next as the surface moves in the x/y directions. I think my use of fine layer height without changing line width, has similar effect to @Destructor429's bumping the line width up.
I would rather crank up the flow % modifier rather than mess with the line width. Also in my testing Rouge is right about thinner layers holding pressure better, although I only tested down to 0.1mm.
The timer is to be set according to how much smoothing you want, not for how big the model is. Finer layers needs less time. 20 minutes cooking will give you equal smoothing, no matter the size of the print.
Hey there Major. You maybe want to have a look at "PVB" (in general), i guess thats what Polysmooth is, judging by their print parameters. For example Prusament PVB, which even is only 2/3rd of Polysmooths price and is somewhat transparent after smoothing. Especially when in vase mode with chunky layerheights. Anyway, there are more PVBs out there, if you want to go nuts with smoothing. :D
Nebulizing 99% IPA into a small space like that seems like an explosion waiting to happen. Did the manual say anything about the fuel:air ratio being too low/high to be flammable, or did they ignore this?
Anyone else get RonCo flashbacks? "You just set it and forget it!" I haven't watched tv on tv in years, sometimes I miss that campy late night stuff :P Nostalgia makes everything better I guess.
oh so sad...i thought it was a way to smoth pla rather than acetone dip....which i cant find legaly in my country cuz they thinks im making drugs or shit like dat.....F
G'day Major, Great to see that companies are making more Environmentally Friendly versions of their Products & Packaging, what I don't understand though is why they Don't use the more Environmentally Friendly Packaging like the Cardboard Reel for all their product lines???
@@ferrumignis Yeah I get that, but they can claim it in the Environmentally Friendly Packaging in Advertising & adjust the price if needed, I'm sure they are not taking a loss on the Environmentally Friendly version, to me it just nullifies the 'We Care' attitude of the Environmentally Friendly version to 'We'll do anything for a sale'
I personally have experimented with PETG prints and chemical MEK smoothing, it works surprisingly well in a custom vapor chamber. Alternatively you can use Toluene but it is much weaker and milder, I suppose it has some use for very minor smoothing.
I wonder if you could just paint on the ipa and forgo the chamber altogether... Maybe you could touch up deadpool's head, or other areas that didn't get quite smoothed enough. That also makes me wonder if you can completely dissolve this filament in ipa and use it like you would with PLA for lost casting? IPA would certainly be easier to drive off than PLA.
You can also use acetone to smooth PLA though it takes a little more prep and some specific tools. Let me know if you want to know the process and I'll send you a list and and step plan how to do it. I developed the technique at the company I work at and was given permission to tell others about it seeing as we work with SLS where this doesn't work.
@@chiefkelly Hey, to use this method you will need a couple things. A large metal or glass container/pot that fits the models you want to smooth. An induction heater, you REALLY don't want any open flames or red hot elements due to the acetone vapors being highly flammable. Stiff wires to dangle the model into the pot/container. And Acetone. I tend to use large 2 litre lab bekers for this as when the acetone is ready (boiling nicely) you will see a line a condensate move up the side of the container. Once this line get to the top your ready to carefully dunk your model into the vapors. DON'T PASS THE EDGE OF THE CONTAINER WITH YOUR FINGERS! The vapors are hot enough to give instant burns. (We found out the hard way) Once the model is in the vapors it will immediately get a wet look, swirl it in the pot for 5 seconds then take it out and see if it is smooth enough. Repeat with 5 sec exposures if necessary. When your happy hang your model to dry. Ok usual warning apply, only do this in a well ventilated area, no open flames of glowing hot elements and wear PPE's This works because we aren't using a chemical smoothing technique as with acetone and ABS but using the super heated acetone vapor to melt the outer layer of the PLA. Let me know how it goes if your try it and if you have any other questions
@@WestCoastDP Most definitely, a friend and former college uses one for his PLA smoothing. He's posted a video of the process for at home smoothing also testing various brands and types of PLA. Look up "Wayne's Workshop" and you should be able to find his channel and the video in question. If you have any other questions about the process please feel free to ask.
do i have a problem if every time you say IPA, i immediately think of beer and then have to manually remember that you're referring to isopropyl alcohol? lol
so a ultrasonic humidifier is ~$20 or so, a timer plug is 10, a plastic bin is 10-50 depending on how big you want it. the only other thing is an automatic lazy susan of some sort. i have seen them but cant think of what their called. so why would one want to buy a $300 when its so small. no idea. neat video and good to know theres something other than acetone to smooth prints.
Because most people that are into this kind of thing don't want to spend three days hacking something like this together, when they could earn money to do something else. Convenience is very marketable, and most 3D prints are not bigger than that Deadpool bust. Special requirements might call for your custom build.
Yeah, I laugh at them claiming they are a super eco green company, but then you have to buy a bulky product that ONLY works with their 1 filament, and specifically designed so its not even useful for ABS.... Oh so green, so environmentally friendly you sell another machine to anyone buying just a couple roles...
I want to see this done on minis. Resin printers are the standard for minis, but it would be nice to get the same kind of quality with an fdm printer. My only concern is that the smoothing would be too much and remove all detail.
Hi new to your channel and subscribed. I feel like you could recycle and repurpose an old microwave into a far higher quality polisher machine than the polysher. If your into tinkering, I would remove the heating element components and replace them with the sprayer components, seal the vents and seal the door if there is none. Place a tank under it and install a drain to the tank. Have sprayers on two bottom corners and one above it. Ultimately the design and size of the microwave you use is up to you, there are very large ones being thrown out in the wild.
You know, there's a technique used in many programs to sharpen images, maybe you can do that to pre sharpen your prints and THEN run them through this. It works by taking several offset versions of the image, and then averaging them together, making a blur effect, and the by linearly interpolating between them, with the regular image being zero, and the blured image being one, you can scale it backwards to make it sharper. What if you tried taking the model, nondestructively smoothing it out a tiny bit, and then lerping the vertices backwards.
At 11:30 you said " I don't think you actually have to..." regarding using the polysher, but then you lose that train of thought. Since the polysher is currently unavailable on amazon, I'm wondering what you would suggest as an alternative method for smoothing the polysmooth prints. Thanks!
PVB (Polyvinylbutyral) I didn't know this material, commonly used in windshields. It's offerd by many companies even Prusa and all of these should work smoothing with Isopropanol. First looks seem to proof the material is quite safe ( except little hazard with sanding dust). And it should be mechanical even more stable than pla. So I'll definitely give it a try. Thanks for the video.
You should give eSun ABS+ a shot, still need an enclosure for good results, but low warp and low smell. Also, all my vase-mode prints hold water, layer width of 2x nozzle diameter for the win!
I would be interested to see what it does to 28mm miniatures printed with 0.2mm nozzle, 0.04-0.06mm layer height. In other words, maximum quality and finest detail an fdm printer can print. Does it melt the details clean off? Probably. But would love to see such an experiment.
So wait, that company already makes useful cardboard spools, but they only use them on their "eco" filament? Why not just use them on all of their spools?!
The first video I saw of this Chanel I was fascinated and subscribed. 12hrs later and a few videos later I just UNSUBSCRIBED with passion. Too much fluf and hype and any useful info just gets lost.
I know I'm late to this party but if you, or the manufacturer, are lurking.... I think the best idea here for the Print In Place stuff would be to allow you to remove the print plate and put it RIGHT INTO the vapor chamber. That way, the joints can't melt together since the entire piece will still be fused in place on the print plate! _(meaning the separate pieces will be spaced out _*_as printed,_*_ aka nothing will be touching)_ Of course, that would require a new vaporizer design, but frankly, it needs one ANYWAYS... That elevator is so stupid and unnecessary (sorry, blunt criticism). It would be just as functional, but fast less expensive, to have the entire dome a single piece to remove (like a dinner cloche, but not metal). Then have a simple *_human operated_* latching mechanism (like the latch used for the lid on a toolbox), since I'm assuming the elevator is functioning as a means to put some pressure on the clear portion to help "seal" things. That _alone_ would remove *so many parts* (plastic and electrical!) ... Thus, much cheaper to make. Simplify assembly since there's not a multi-part track assembly or electric motor (which is either a stepper, or has 2 switches acting as sensors)... Thus, making it even cheaper to make! The lack of convoluted design means less chance of pointless failures... Thus, a more reliable product which yields better reviews, translating into better sales and brand trust. Replacing the electronic elevator mechanism with human power makes it easier and faster for the user to get things done... Thus, an improvement in quality of life, again translating into better reviews, brand image, and more sales! 👍👍👍👍 _"But, if it isn't designed to fail.... How will we make money on people buying replacements?"_ 🤷♂️ If it doesn't last long, word *will* get out, and you will *_still_* suffer lost sales. If it is a better product which gives the user an overall pleased experience... They'll be far more likely to buy a replacement, or newer, better models! 😉 [/ -ramble- *_free_* _R&D, QA, and user criticism_ ]
You can also use a small square of G-10 and clip it to your bed, print on it, and move it into the chamber. Just make sure you cut the G-10 to fit into the chamber.
If you don't like ABS, how about I introduce you to ASA, the plastic that ABS wishes it was, that also can be treated with acetone? Give it a go, it's pretty sweet.
Weirded out with the '...doesn't hold water..' comment,as most all mine do. Change your settings,alter wall thickness, let some 'smudging' occur. You shouldn't have to deal with drippy vases, or anything, really.
Polysmooth is awful. I love polymaker and I use their ASA almost exclusively for production parts. But polysmooth is bad. IPA does indeed smooth it but it tacks up horribly and takes forever to harden. It's also super sensitive and easy to destroy by mistake. I ended up using the rest of my spool for prototyping. I also hated ABS when I started, but experience and improvements to the material itself (ASA) has made it my preferred material. It should go without saying that unless you're a complete amateur you should be enclosing your machines.
Please be carefull with isopropyl alcohol. Buy it only in small quantities. Isopropy alcohol tend to create peroxide molecules and if stored long enough (because you bought a big family lifetime supply and you dont need that much, but it was cheap), then they react with each other, catch fire inside an closed container and blow up. You buy it, store it somewhere, its alcohol and common sense says: alcohol + time = better alcohol, and then 5-10 years later your wokshop burns down. I have some stored in the dark, but only 330ml bottle which we have celebrated 3 year aniversary. I let it air sometimes...
Shiny huh? All of the shoothed 3D prints looks like partially melt butter. I really don't know how anybody could say about those have details. Almost all the detail just gone. Like when you brush over a model kit with modeling glue. Filament 3D printing maybe fun, but its a dead end.
An alternative to the smoothing abilities of ABS is overdue.. but I cannot see IPA as the solution! Any hobbyist who is fiddling with 3d printers and technology also is spritzing IPA around like others do with water, because there are just too many uses for this alcoho.. So it doesn't even seem remotely safe to have prints that are sensitive to IPA, and sooner or later any print might easily come in contact with IPA unwanted. Combined with the way too low melting point of PLA, this sadly is a no-go.
abs is toxic, my printer is in my bed room and printing abs, my room doesn't have well ventilated, when i printing using ABS it dose give me headache and when im sleeping my dream also kinda weird, usually i remember my dream after woke up when i sleep at afternoon at 4pm or 3pm, but when tried sleeping at 11am, 4pm, and 11pm i get weird dream like sleeping at 4pm. im sorry from talking about dream because i like to remember my dream after woke up
Honestly, for the Deadpool bust, I'm slightly disappointed at the model itself. Should have gone with the character and had internals and entrails poking out the stumps of the arms and the ribcage.
I dont see the fad about layer lines .. So what if it has them ..ffs it was 3d printed and the process of fdm 3d printing is printing in "LAYEEERS" .., personally i prefer seeing the lines ..so you can see its been fdm 3d printed ..dont like the lines?? Get a resin printer .. Even some resin prints you can see layers as is near enough the models are made in layers ... I really dont get it .. Yes ok you can see layer lines thats because its been printed on an fdm 3d printer .. Duhhh .
I realize that this video is a year old but why not just use a resin printer? Smoothing these prints made them look like garbage. Size really isn't an issue as you can resin weld parts together to make a bigger part. This might have been useful before resin printers but now that they are a thing that's decently cheap, why would anyone buy this?
This device is a gimmick, just buy a spray bottle and spray with alcohol on a box container and leave it for 15 mins and do it again 3x and you get better result.
When you print in Vase mode using a .4 nozzle bump your line width up to .6. it pushes more material and will make the walls way thicker and fill the holes. I make lots of Vase's and this works wicked.
or increase your flow rate by a small percentage to manage the material rate more precisely
One of the first prints I did was a vase - pushed the flow to 120% and it came out perfect and watertight
I saw a vid a week or so back where someone was vase printing with extreme line widths. Amazingly they had good results with line widths many times the nozzle width. Like 2mm with a 0.4mm nozzle. The line width was even wider than the flat part of the nozzle. The secret seemed to be increasing the layer height to maintain a 5:2 ratio or something like that. Annoyingly I can't find the vid now or I'd post a link.
Found it... ua-cam.com/video/0DAP5Zm1jvk/v-deo.html
.8 nozzles just make it so much stronger, that's what I'd suggest.
I imagine that if you could smell it when it was running, it would mean that it's a massive fire hazard. Definitely don't want to run it partially open in any way. Deadpool slowly rotating in a toxic alcohol mist is very on brand, good choice.
Atomized flame thrower 🤔
You can smell ipa way below flammable limits
if you have the time for it, could you scale down the picard model and smooth it? just to see how smooth you can make his head xD
You have some fans that were really silent, I'd like to see if they could become even more silent smoothed
For some reason I thought you were taking about fans as in people, not fans as in spinny fluid movers the first time I read your comment XD It reeeeaaly changes the meaning
Same bro
I don't know, I like my fans loud and cheery
@@beeallen2743 Me too, It took some time before I got that thought off my mind 🤪😂
I was thinking the same thing. Some of the silent fan blades would this make them even more silent and would make them work better?
Just a PSA, PolySmooth(tm) is a PVB blend, if you wanna find some generic. Not all blends are created equal, but I generally encourage people to understand the polymers they are using better, and rely less on trademarks
Whatcha talkin' 'bout Willis!? It's a LEAR jet! 🤣
absolute lifesaver, thank you lmao
That holely vase must have been designed by the Corsair waterblock team.
Question: How sensitive are the pieces to a manual smoothing? Could you do a better job with an alcohol swab?
Man you got some awesome presentation skills.
He can sell ice to penguin.
Nebulize IPA in what I can only assume is a small bomb machine. What's the fire hazard on that thing?
I literally always have isopropyl alcohol. It's what I always use to clean my computers and my pipes. works great! I also keep it in a spray bottle so I wouldn't even need that fancy mist machine, just patience.
Must hurt
@@tsayon13 hurt what?
@@tsayon13 all it hurts is the resin build up
@@donaldhobson9027 Cleaning his "pipes" with alcohol.
I have 5 liters of the stuff myself.
apparently Polysmooth (and any PVB filament like the new prusament stuff) once smoothed, you're meant to just leave it for a week to gain the full strength and not tacky-ness
that applies to any vapor smoothing, abs needs to dry veery long before it loses the gummyness
Do you think it can be cured in less time if put in a UV curing machine or nope ?
I've had amazing results with acetone smoothing by doing multiple short passes and letting them dry for a few minutes in between. Curious to see if the polysher would have the same effect.
Agreed, multiple short cycles prevent the solvent penetrating the surface too deeply. Should work just the same with this, though doing this manually on this rather gimmicky machine looks like it would be a pain. It's something the manufacturers should consider though, along with getting rid of the silly rising platform.
U mean with a brush?
Would brushing IPA on it work, or should I only spray?
Isn't all PLA biomaterial? Greenwashing much
7:15 whats the music? lol
One option: (only for prints that are basic, or mostly flat edged. (parts, tools, vases etc) If you have a hot air station, you can set the air gun temp, just above the nozzle temp, and give the edges a short blast of hot air in an equal manner. That does eliminate a lot of the layering, although you need a silicone mat, and have to do short blasts to avoid warping.
The problem I see with polysmooth is it requires being in a dry box. I am not a fan of filament that needs special care while it is just setting there! I will stick with my method of using Bondo plastic metal and filler primer. That way I can use a really strong filament and not have to babysit it and buy even more absurdly priced things like that Polysher which I am sorry for the super simple thing it does is so grossly overpriced it goes beyond absurd!
What does the elevator do? Does it helps the smoothing? No it brings the price higher😂😂😂
Maybe some fan designs would look cool overcooked like the biohazard or some blade design meant to look like slime.
Deadpool spinning to the montage music was so perfect, It would make Ryan Reynolds proud!
MEK (methyl ethyl ketone ) will smooth normal PLA, you can brush it on then let it evaporate. It's some nasty stuff though.
u sure? MEK dissolves ABS, but PLA?
Not that bad. Just an irritant.
There seems to be a lot of people that confuse MEK with Methylene Chloride. MEK does not smooth PLA in any useful way, it just makes it soft and rubbery. Usefull for clearing out a clogged hot end after a good soaking, but not much else.
Methylene Chloride does have a useable smoothing action on PLA, but unlike MEK it is a very toxic chemical. This is the stuff that was removed from paint stripper some years ago, and why modern paint strippers are useless.
@@ferrumignis if you are talking about DCM, yes, considering that it is a powerful organic solvant, still commony used in labs, it should smoothe PLA. It is however toxic to inhale, although less toxic than most Organic-Chloride Compositions
It also turns out that while Acetone and MEK are great solvants for alkane based plastics such as ABS, they are quite ineffective when working with PLA
Should have done a new Picard bust for the table. ;)
Have you tried it with regular PLA to see how much difference the fancy filament makes?
Isopropyl alcohol (or acetone) has no effect on PLA, or at least no smoothing effect. Actually acetone mist kind of messed up my PLA jigs I used to hold my ABS parts in a vapour chamber, but they just got deformed and discoloured, they didn't get any more smooth.
My vote is to test the strength of the stuff before and after smoothing. Maybe compare it to a popular PLA too. I know, there are 34 channels doing that type of stuff, but you have the fancy vapor elevator for this one case. The smoothing filament could be useful for more than cosmetics if the physical characteristics are different and desirable in some way over PLA. I know PETG, ABS, Nylon, and carbon blends all have some advantages but they often are only marginally better. Plus they often have significant negatives; stuff like hot end limitations, fumes, enclosures ... If this stuff is reasonably safe and easy to print it might make up 90% of the difference.
I would be interested in seeing you try to make a vase water tight.
When you print in Vase mode using a .4 nozzle bump your line width up to .6. it pushes more material and will make the walls way thicker and fill the holes. I make lots of Vase's and this works wicked.
I've been doing a fair bit of single-wall printing and find I have no problems with things being watertight. Just picked up an old failed print (failed halfway up) that is single perimeter with no infill... and poured some water in and sure enough, no leaks even with some rather complex curving and overhanging geometry.
I suspect what makes it work well for me is that I'm using 0.05mm layer height for my single perimeter prints. Finer layer height means more horizontal overlap from one layer to the next as the surface moves in the x/y directions. I think my use of fine layer height without changing line width, has similar effect to @Destructor429's bumping the line width up.
I would rather crank up the flow % modifier rather than mess with the line width. Also in my testing Rouge is right about thinner layers holding pressure better, although I only tested down to 0.1mm.
Yes!
The timer is to be set according to how much smoothing you want, not for how big the model is. Finer layers needs less time. 20 minutes cooking will give you equal smoothing, no matter the size of the print.
Hey there Major. You maybe want to have a look at "PVB" (in general), i guess thats what Polysmooth is, judging by their print parameters. For example Prusament PVB, which even is only 2/3rd of Polysmooths price and is somewhat transparent after smoothing. Especially when in vase mode with chunky layerheights.
Anyway, there are more PVBs out there, if you want to go nuts with smoothing. :D
Awesome vid. Could you please credit the song at 6:16? It sounds awesome.
ABS doesn't just "smell"....it's actually TOXIC.
There is something cool about the music you chose and Deadpool spinning around. Great job and keep it coming.
Good ole Synthwave. If you like that type of music and you're a gamer, give Katana Zero a try.
Ĺ⁰l
The piece is called Alienated - ELFL. Really cool B-roll shot from the machine.
Nebulizing 99% IPA into a small space like that seems like an explosion waiting to happen. Did the manual say anything about the fuel:air ratio being too low/high to be flammable, or did they ignore this?
The trick in printing ABS is to use ASA.
I find it funny that a company that boasts being eco friendly and stuff makes a totally unnecessary product to smooth your prints lmao
Anyone else get RonCo flashbacks? "You just set it and forget it!"
I haven't watched tv on tv in years, sometimes I miss that campy late night stuff :P
Nostalgia makes everything better I guess.
oh so sad...i thought it was a way to smoth pla rather than acetone dip....which i cant find legaly in my country cuz they thinks im making drugs or shit like dat.....F
G'day Major,
Great to see that companies are making more Environmentally Friendly versions of their Products & Packaging,
what I don't understand though is why they Don't use the more Environmentally Friendly Packaging like the Cardboard Reel for all their product lines???
The plastic reels are probably cheaper than the cardboard ones!
@@ferrumignis Yeah I get that, but they can claim it in the Environmentally Friendly Packaging in Advertising & adjust the price if needed,
I'm sure they are not taking a loss on the Environmentally Friendly version,
to me it just nullifies the 'We Care' attitude of the Environmentally Friendly version to 'We'll do anything for a sale'
I personally have experimented with PETG prints and chemical MEK smoothing, it works surprisingly well in a custom vapor chamber. Alternatively you can use Toluene but it is much weaker and milder, I suppose it has some use for very minor smoothing.
I wonder if you could just paint on the ipa and forgo the chamber altogether... Maybe you could touch up deadpool's head, or other areas that didn't get quite smoothed enough.
That also makes me wonder if you can completely dissolve this filament in ipa and use it like you would with PLA for lost casting? IPA would certainly be easier to drive off than PLA.
You can also use acetone to smooth PLA though it takes a little more prep and some specific tools. Let me know if you want to know the process and I'll send you a list and and step plan how to do it. I developed the technique at the company I work at and was given permission to tell others about it seeing as we work with SLS where this doesn't work.
Would love to know how you do it
@@chiefkelly Hey, to use this method you will need a couple things.
A large metal or glass container/pot that fits the models you want to smooth.
An induction heater, you REALLY don't want any open flames or red hot elements due to the acetone vapors being highly flammable.
Stiff wires to dangle the model into the pot/container.
And Acetone.
I tend to use large 2 litre lab bekers for this as when the acetone is ready (boiling nicely) you will see a line a condensate move up the side of the container. Once this line get to the top your ready to carefully dunk your model into the vapors.
DON'T PASS THE EDGE OF THE CONTAINER WITH YOUR FINGERS! The vapors are hot enough to give instant burns. (We found out the hard way)
Once the model is in the vapors it will immediately get a wet look, swirl it in the pot for 5 seconds then take it out and see if it is smooth enough. Repeat with 5 sec exposures if necessary.
When your happy hang your model to dry.
Ok usual warning apply, only do this in a well ventilated area, no open flames of glowing hot elements and wear PPE's
This works because we aren't using a chemical smoothing technique as with acetone and ABS but using the super heated acetone vapor to melt the outer layer of the PLA.
Let me know how it goes if your try it and if you have any other questions
@@KylejvT Will a small countertop induction heater work for cooking? I've seen some for $85.
@@WestCoastDP Most definitely, a friend and former college uses one for his PLA smoothing. He's posted a video of the process for at home smoothing also testing various brands and types of PLA. Look up "Wayne's Workshop" and you should be able to find his channel and the video in question. If you have any other questions about the process please feel free to ask.
do i have a problem if every time you say IPA, i immediately think of beer and then have to manually remember that you're referring to isopropyl alcohol? lol
so a ultrasonic humidifier is ~$20 or so, a timer plug is 10, a plastic bin is 10-50 depending on how big you want it. the only other thing is an automatic lazy susan of some sort. i have seen them but cant think of what their called. so why would one want to buy a $300 when its so small. no idea. neat video and good to know theres something other than acetone to smooth prints.
Because most people that are into this kind of thing don't want to spend three days hacking something like this together, when they could earn money to do something else. Convenience is very marketable, and most 3D prints are not bigger than that Deadpool bust. Special requirements might call for your custom build.
Burger waffles are the whey
What does this IPA work on regular PLA?
Have you tried a spray bottle to smooth?
Can you please try printing the FGC9-mkII?
Of course, they recommend using their expensive device. lol. Looks like I will need to try this and see how it works.
Yeah, I laugh at them claiming they are a super eco green company, but then you have to buy a bulky product that ONLY works with their 1 filament, and specifically designed so its not even useful for ABS.... Oh so green, so environmentally friendly you sell another machine to anyone buying just a couple roles...
I think the motorized lifting tray is unnecessary. Just a plastic dome you lift off would suffice and make the product more affordable.
I want to see this done on minis. Resin printers are the standard for minis, but it would be nice to get the same kind of quality with an fdm printer. My only concern is that the smoothing would be too much and remove all detail.
I’m also curious about this
Hi new to your channel and subscribed. I feel like you could recycle and repurpose an old microwave into a far higher quality polisher machine than the polysher. If your into tinkering, I would remove the heating element components and replace them with the sprayer components, seal the vents and seal the door if there is none. Place a tank under it and install a drain to the tank. Have sprayers on two bottom corners and one above it. Ultimately the design and size of the microwave you use is up to you, there are very large ones being thrown out in the wild.
I feel like that polysher machine could be a lot simpler- cheaper.
Like a non aerosol spray can lol
You know, there's a technique used in many programs to sharpen images, maybe you can do that to pre sharpen your prints and THEN run them through this. It works by taking several offset versions of the image, and then averaging them together, making a blur effect, and the by linearly interpolating between them, with the regular image being zero, and the blured image being one, you can scale it backwards to make it sharper.
What if you tried taking the model, nondestructively smoothing it out a tiny bit, and then lerping the vertices backwards.
The rising platform seems like a total gimmick, if you can simply lift off the clear cover why is this feature needed?
At 11:30 you said " I don't think you actually have to..." regarding using the polysher, but then you lose that train of thought. Since the polysher is currently unavailable on amazon, I'm wondering what you would suggest as an alternative method for smoothing the polysmooth prints. Thanks!
pla smells like sweet corn and every time I print with it, I get hungry
Smells like pancake syrup (which is mostly corn syrup I guess)
Atomized Alcohol! Mum that sounds like fire hazard.
what's the song's name at 6:18?
PVB (Polyvinylbutyral) I didn't know this material, commonly used in windshields.
It's offerd by many companies even Prusa and all of these should work smoothing with Isopropanol.
First looks seem to proof the material is quite safe ( except little hazard with sanding dust).
And it should be mechanical even more stable than pla. So I'll definitely give it a try. Thanks for the video.
Is there no risk with highly flameable IPA being vaporized?
Don’t you Need a fume hood for ABS because of styrene gas?
You're probably fine if you have ventilation. Obviously don't print it in a small room without airflow
It looks, _Avasing._
(And if you pronounce it like James then it even has a fun accent.)
ABS - "If you think about an ice cube it falls off the build plate" xD
If you sandpaper the 3D prints with a 1000 grit, it will smooth out the rougher lines, then do an acetone vapor chamber.
You should figure out the timing of the rotation, and make a timelapse of parts being smoothed in the same rotational position each time
An old idea is new again - lol -. When I spray painted cars in the 80s I used to do a final coat with plain thinners to smooth out the paint.
Try misting the prints with a sprayer without the overcomplicated machine
How would you keep the IPA mist circulating around the print for 20+ minutes if misting it by hand?
@@ferrumignis You don't, you remist after a few minutes
Thank you major hardware. We love you 💖
smoothing your things
What could you smooth else?
The inside of the cooling stuff?
that's just a damn atomizer with a lazy susan and some LEDs!!
I could make this thing in 2 hours in my backy-... ahem...
You should give eSun ABS+ a shot, still need an enclosure for good results, but low warp and low smell.
Also, all my vase-mode prints hold water, layer width of 2x nozzle diameter for the win!
I never had a 3D printer but I’m so really want one right now just to print Deadpool
Print your vases double wall thickness extrusion. Eg, perimeters at 0.8mm
It would have been nice if you showed trying to smooth without the cabinet. ie. Spray IPA on to the model with a misting hand spray?
I would be interested to see what it does to 28mm miniatures printed with 0.2mm nozzle, 0.04-0.06mm layer height. In other words, maximum quality and finest detail an fdm printer can print.
Does it melt the details clean off? Probably. But would love to see such an experiment.
So wait, that company already makes useful cardboard spools, but they only use them on their "eco" filament? Why not just use them on all of their spools?!
Where can i get models like the Deadpool to print? Ive googled for busts to buy like xmen, anime stuff, etc but they are kinda crappy.
The first video I saw of this Chanel I was fascinated and subscribed. 12hrs later and a few videos later I just UNSUBSCRIBED with passion.
Too much fluf and hype and any useful info just gets lost.
I know I'm late to this party but if you, or the manufacturer, are lurking.... I think the best idea here for the Print In Place stuff would be to allow you to remove the print plate and put it RIGHT INTO the vapor chamber.
That way, the joints can't melt together since the entire piece will still be fused in place on the print plate! _(meaning the separate pieces will be spaced out _*_as printed,_*_ aka nothing will be touching)_
Of course, that would require a new vaporizer design, but frankly, it needs one ANYWAYS...
That elevator is so stupid and unnecessary (sorry, blunt criticism). It would be just as functional, but fast less expensive, to have the entire dome a single piece to remove (like a dinner cloche, but not metal). Then have a simple *_human operated_* latching mechanism (like the latch used for the lid on a toolbox), since I'm assuming the elevator is functioning as a means to put some pressure on the clear portion to help "seal" things.
That _alone_ would remove *so many parts* (plastic and electrical!) ... Thus, much cheaper to make.
Simplify assembly since there's not a multi-part track assembly or electric motor (which is either a stepper, or has 2 switches acting as sensors)... Thus, making it even cheaper to make!
The lack of convoluted design means less chance of pointless failures... Thus, a more reliable product which yields better reviews, translating into better sales and brand trust.
Replacing the electronic elevator mechanism with human power makes it easier and faster for the user to get things done... Thus, an improvement in quality of life, again translating into better reviews, brand image, and more sales!
👍👍👍👍
_"But, if it isn't designed to fail.... How will we make money on people buying replacements?"_
🤷♂️ If it doesn't last long, word *will* get out, and you will *_still_* suffer lost sales. If it is a better product which gives the user an overall pleased experience... They'll be far more likely to buy a replacement, or newer, better models! 😉
[/ -ramble- *_free_* _R&D, QA, and user criticism_ ]
You can also use a small square of G-10 and clip it to your bed, print on it, and move it into the chamber. Just make sure you cut the G-10 to fit into the chamber.
Note: Just melt beeswax and coat the inside- tada watrproof. That's how they do it with gourds and water-pouches in them-old'en days.
Maybe some wax paper underneath Deadpool when you can't use the elevated spikes? Not sure if it's compatible with the system.
If you don't like ABS, how about I introduce you to ASA, the plastic that ABS wishes it was, that also can be treated with acetone? Give it a go, it's pretty sweet.
How about doing a video of smoothing without it.
Maybe some glue or some sort of glaze/varnish could be applied over the surface?
Weirded out with the '...doesn't hold water..' comment,as most all mine do.
Change your settings,alter wall thickness, let some 'smudging' occur.
You shouldn't have to deal with drippy vases, or anything, really.
Polysmooth is awful. I love polymaker and I use their ASA almost exclusively for production parts. But polysmooth is bad. IPA does indeed smooth it but it tacks up horribly and takes forever to harden. It's also super sensitive and easy to destroy by mistake. I ended up using the rest of my spool for prototyping. I also hated ABS when I started, but experience and improvements to the material itself (ASA) has made it my preferred material. It should go without saying that unless you're a complete amateur you should be enclosing your machines.
Please be carefull with isopropyl alcohol. Buy it only in small quantities. Isopropy alcohol tend to create peroxide molecules and if stored long enough (because you bought a big family lifetime supply and you dont need that much, but it was cheap), then they react with each other, catch fire inside an closed container and blow up. You buy it, store it somewhere, its alcohol and common sense says: alcohol + time = better alcohol, and then 5-10 years later your wokshop burns down. I have some stored in the dark, but only 330ml bottle which we have celebrated 3 year aniversary. I let it air sometimes...
Shiny huh? All of the shoothed 3D prints looks like partially melt butter. I really don't know how anybody could say about those have details. Almost all the detail just gone. Like when you brush over a model kit with modeling glue.
Filament 3D printing maybe fun, but its a dead end.
An alternative to the smoothing abilities of ABS is overdue.. but I cannot see IPA as the solution! Any hobbyist who is fiddling with 3d printers and technology also is spritzing IPA around like others do with water, because there are just too many uses for this alcoho.. So it doesn't even seem remotely safe to have prints that are sensitive to IPA, and sooner or later any print might easily come in contact with IPA unwanted. Combined with the way too low melting point of PLA, this sadly is a no-go.
I'm frankly not sure if I'd want to make anything out of a material that melts under a common household cleaning product.
Hopeless. such blurring of objects looks disgusting. Waste of money for such equipment. Mechanical processing is the best
I see Airforce and Toledo Walleyes!? I'm in the Navy, from Toledo and just started 3D printing myself!
Love seeing 25 seconds ago on the upload
abs is toxic, my printer is in my bed room and printing abs, my room doesn't have well ventilated, when i printing using ABS it dose give me headache and when im sleeping my dream also kinda weird, usually i remember my dream after woke up when i sleep at afternoon at 4pm or 3pm, but when tried sleeping at 11am, 4pm, and 11pm i get weird dream like sleeping at 4pm. im sorry from talking about dream because i like to remember my dream after woke up
Ah, this again. Well, I'll be impressed when there is a solution that works on existing filament.
Salt annealing
Honestly, for the Deadpool bust, I'm slightly disappointed at the model itself. Should have gone with the character and had internals and entrails poking out the stumps of the arms and the ribcage.
Two possible alternatives to the vapour machine (1) dip print into IPA for 25-30 mins (2) use a spray bottle .
i wouldn't say i like the result, it obviously just melt the figure, it looks smooth, but definitely i like more the old way
$7.00 plastic wheeled box/lid and a watch, bingo.
only new-age chumps gonna buy that thing to do smoothing
Schilling m.h.
Did I hear you right? You printed that Deadpool busts with NO supports?
I dont see the fad about layer lines .. So what if it has them ..ffs it was 3d printed and the process of fdm 3d printing is printing in "LAYEEERS" .., personally i prefer seeing the lines ..so you can see its been fdm 3d printed ..dont like the lines?? Get a resin printer .. Even some resin prints you can see layers as is near enough the models are made in layers ...
I really dont get it .. Yes ok you can see layer lines thats because its been printed on an fdm 3d printer .. Duhhh .
Every time you said IPA I thought India pale ale, not Isopropyl alcohol. I don't even drink, but my dad does.
I realize that this video is a year old but why not just use a resin printer? Smoothing these prints made them look like garbage. Size really isn't an issue as you can resin weld parts together to make a bigger part. This might have been useful before resin printers but now that they are a thing that's decently cheap, why would anyone buy this?
This device is a gimmick, just buy a spray bottle and spray with alcohol on a box container and leave it for 15 mins and do it again 3x and you get better result.
I don't care the "sustainability" I look for a cheap and good quality filament. That is where my money goes.