I really wish you would’ve noted the grits as you progressed.. I know it’s easy to you but I bet there are a bunch of noobs (myself included) that would like to learn.
If you aren't comfortable with the Random Orbital Sander, make sure you use 180 to plane out your pit otherwise 80 grit for cast lines and reshaping, 120 grit for pits and groves, 180 to remove low grit gouges, 220 to smooth, 320 to prep for wet sand/buffer wheel abrasives, then polish. Just stay well away from any mating surfaces on engine parts, Tape is your friend
@@westcoast_johnny rock on, your method is perfect for basically everything except throttle bodies, cylinder heads, and blocks...their castings tend to be absolutely terrible and need tons of work to get rid of the bubbles, pits, blobs, and nicks. Smaller accent parts, bumpers, trim, handles, etc this method is perfect, not need to update at all for that purpose. The extra steps are only because you need 60, 80, or 120 to get rid of all of the yucky casting garbage and thus have to go up in grit a little slower to be sure all of your sanding gouges are fully removed from the previous grit before moving on. Since you are only skipping one grit and your surfaces are easy to maintain an even plane saving the time is worth it...since you are probably not polishing just one of these but 4 of these and 25 other small bits that all need to match finish as best as you can....few steps is probably much better here and they usually won't have to be directly next to each other. Very good vid.
Oh and if you do hit the mating surfaces don't panic, but make sure you know what you are doing before you try to "FIX" a machine lapped true surface. Very fine grit wet paper a lapping plate and potentially a small counter weight and go very slow checking for true and smoothness. On the cylinder head you don't want any scratches but the valve cover and throttlebody should be ok if their faces aren't perfect, just use a slightly thicker and more compressive gasket.
Not necessarily true. I could have polished that aluminum with various grits of sandpaper, some polishing compound and a soft cloth, it would have looked the same but took much longer… and no tools needed.
Shiny rocker covers here I come!
Thanks PK! I’m glad you got inspired, I’d love to see pics of the rocker covers.,👍🏼
Thanx for the video and info..... Did the second part ever get posted?? I cant seem to find it if it was...
Thanks for this Johnny💯
thank you!
I really wish you would’ve noted the grits as you progressed.. I know it’s easy to you but I bet there are a bunch of noobs (myself included) that would like to learn.
Great video! :D
If you aren't comfortable with the Random Orbital Sander, make sure you use 180 to plane out your pit otherwise 80 grit for cast lines and reshaping, 120 grit for pits and groves, 180 to remove low grit gouges, 220 to smooth, 320 to prep for wet sand/buffer wheel abrasives, then polish. Just stay well away from any mating surfaces on engine parts, Tape is your friend
Thanks Jeremy for the breakdown of sandpaper grits, I’ll use this info for another polishing vid soon. 👍🏼
@@westcoast_johnny rock on, your method is perfect for basically everything except throttle bodies, cylinder heads, and blocks...their castings tend to be absolutely terrible and need tons of work to get rid of the bubbles, pits, blobs, and nicks. Smaller accent parts, bumpers, trim, handles, etc this method is perfect, not need to update at all for that purpose. The extra steps are only because you need 60, 80, or 120 to get rid of all of the yucky casting garbage and thus have to go up in grit a little slower to be sure all of your sanding gouges are fully removed from the previous grit before moving on. Since you are only skipping one grit and your surfaces are easy to maintain an even plane saving the time is worth it...since you are probably not polishing just one of these but 4 of these and 25 other small bits that all need to match finish as best as you can....few steps is probably much better here and they usually won't have to be directly next to each other. Very good vid.
Oh and if you do hit the mating surfaces don't panic, but make sure you know what you are doing before you try to "FIX" a machine lapped true surface. Very fine grit wet paper a lapping plate and potentially a small counter weight and go very slow checking for true and smoothness. On the cylinder head you don't want any scratches but the valve cover and throttlebody should be ok if their faces aren't perfect, just use a slightly thicker and more compressive gasket.
Super!!!!
Thank you my friend! 👍🏼👍🏼
Well yeah anyone can do that if they have the tools
Not necessarily true. I could have polished that aluminum with various grits of sandpaper, some polishing compound and a soft cloth, it would have looked the same but took much longer… and no tools needed.