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How we dusted our engine & how to prevent it (Part 3/3), LC200 Air Filter Comparison
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- Опубліковано 11 бер 2020
- #dustedengine #greatoffroadadventures #subscribe
Following on from Part 2, where we replaced the engine. Here is a break down on how it happened by comparing a genuine air filter vs. an aftermarket air filter vs a complete airbox & what you can do to prevent it from happening to you!!!
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Happy, Safe Adventuring - Cheers Graham.
I worked for Sargent/4WD hire , when the 200s was relatively new we had a few on a Gas Pipeline project from Dampier to Bunbury , I noticed the 200's were getting bull dust through not past the air filter(genuine filter) where the Utes and Troupies didn't ,I put it down to the extra draw from the twin turbos . We photographed the evidence and sent it to Toyota . Toyota came back with "The EGR particles will be bigger than the dust particles ,so we see no issue " I shit you not !! 6 months into the project we had 2 200's at Geraldton Toyota with dusted engines . They had to cover both under warranty because we had the emails showing them the issue and their response to the dust issue . One intake was bagged and sent to Japan for inspection . neither vehicle had snorkels . a must for dusty conditions IMHO
You are right on the money mate. I've got a LC200 which from day one had a small amount of very very fine dust getting past the genuine filter. I always use genuine filters because they are alot bigger, deeper, have more pleats and the rubber seal is thicker so you would think that it's going to perform better. I have even used high density foam on two sides of the filter element when it sits in the upper section of the airbox effectively sealing two sides of the filter element in the air box and the fine dust still got through. I have watched other videos on this subject including a guy who sucked talcum powder THROUGH a filter element, so it appears that it's the actual filter element failing not a sealing/bypass issue which is due to the vacuum generated from the two turbos. I finally fixed the problem by spending alot of money on a Donaldson PowerCore which appears to have fixed the issue, so far anyway.
@@gaynbriansquire1115 I'm considering the Donaldson - any induction noise changes or noticeable performance increase on top of the fact the big girl is now breathing easy? Snorkel fitted?
Would definitely run the stainless box from the outset. Any warranty issues, just swap the boxes over. Would not risk dusting the new motor, especially if the damage becomes evident after warranty expiry.
For a regular guy that makes sense but when your car is all over the internet and Toyota knows you’re name and face, their gonna see that you’ve changed the air box and potentially not honour any future warranty claims.
@@joehockey5077
For Toyota to not warrant, it would have to prove the air box was the cause of the damage.
If your gearbox blows up, they can't say it was the result of the air box.
You don't have to use genuine parts, they just have to be to the same standard or higher as genuine.
A stainless air box would clearly be a higher quality.
Patroldocta make an aftermarket box that runs the factory filter can’t see Toyota making many excuses to void warranty if you still run a factory element
Am sure he is running the box we see in the video. No way anyone that has been through what he's been through would run the factory box again.
Thanks for taking time to dig into the detail. To support your findings, a couple of weeks ago I fitted a Ryco air filter with a gauze pre-filter pad on dirty side. When checking this weekend I was surprised to find bugs stuck in once place which led me to notice the Ryco total thickness below the seal is taller than the OE filter, causing it to sit on the inlet pipe in the bottom air box - this in turn lifted the filter so it was bottoming out before the seal got compressed, so the lid wasn't sealing!! Although you measured that the Toyota filter is thicker overall it seems the Ryco is thicker below the seal - a critical design over sight by Ryco, won't be using them again in anything...
Just a thought. When you fit the alloy box, after tightening the wingnuts put a dab of nail polish on the exposed threads to stop unwinding caused by vibration. Or use loctite.
Can say that after 40K and plenty of offroad they don’t loosen or unwind
Cheap filters have always been an issue, but your intake on your snorkel is the main issue. Lots of four wheel driver put air 'rams' and take off the air 'spinners' or air boxes with the notion that they inhibit air flow, they my in some respect, BUT they do take out over 70% of the dust/dirt from the air intake. You got a massive intake of dusty/dirty air any filter will break down.I did an experiment on my Patrol years ago and put on a 'Donaldson' air spinner and was astounded by the amount of dirt it trapped, without that on 70% of that dirt/dust would've gone into the filter.I now have a 2014 cruiser and I will never take the 'spinner' of the snorkel
There's a reason they put them on plant.
Totally agree! Leave the air spinner
Excellent video Graham. Very accurate information on all points. I say this off the record and i wouldn't expect you to disclose it anyway, but i'm pretty sure as soon as the camera turned off, that beautiful stainless steel airbox would have been bolted straight into your beast of a 200 series. If and when problems shall arise which are engine related, the stock airbox will be bolted straight in with no way of Toyota knowing that you had an aftermarket airbox fitted to your landcruiser. That's exactly what i would do (off record of course). Your diagnosis was correct but i also believe that EGR plays a big part in engine failure in the long run. Unfortunately these new diesel engines are very sophisticated with a lot of things to go wrong. All because of emissions. I own a 79 series with 32,000kms on the clock, owned it from new. I plan on keeping engine performance stock but will carry out intake carbon cleaning every 40,000kms. Something you should seriously consider. I may bypass the EGR and DPF systems down the track. At the moment they work perfectly and i have fitted a Provent catch can. It catches the remaining oil vapor that the oil/air separator on the left bank rocker cover doesn't catch (mini catch can from factory). I'm a Toyota technician and this is all too familiar. Wasn't it great when manufacturers like Toyota weren't forced to add all this emissions bullshit on their quality product back in the day? Unfortunately the world is changing and this is diesel life now, no matter which badge you sport. And it's getting even worse. Enjoy your 1VD-FTV mate, because in the not so distant future this engine will seem like a bloody good engine compared to what's coming next.
Fantastic information on the various filters. Maybe a recommendation out of this could be to check your Toyota airbox for deformation by sight or with a steel rule. If deformed, replace the Toyota airbox.
G'day Graham & Jess, Very very well explained as well as the surprising price comparison mate, make's you wonder why
anyone would even bother with the after market rubbish.
The only thing I thought was wrong is the fact that it happened to you & Jess, having just gotten married & starting a long
& happy life together it's a dam shame.
Anyway thank's for your up front honesty & the very interesting breakdown which may very well save someone else the
financial pain, hope to see you out there one day Mate, Steve.
As my mechanic (non Toyota mechanic) said to me about 20 years ago "How much does Toyota spend on R &D compared to an after market supplier?"... I took his advice and my 2002 HDJ79 has almost 300k on the clock and still drives like new. I still use genuine Toyota parts and I reckon the vehicle will keep on keeping on!!! I will also add that the vehicle has been to Cape York six times, done the CSR, Gunbarrel, Anne Beadell etc, etc...the list is a long one.
Thanks for a very informative video.
no dust after the airbox?
Nah...it's a standard steel air box not like the 200's. It also has the standard cyclonic air intake (snorkel) take keeps a lot of dirt out of the air box/air filter compared to after market air ram style snorkels. All good so far after 17+ years of ownership.
Dust and dirt in the engine is exactly why snorkels were developed (not water crossing) because it moves your intake up high away from the dusty road. Especially in Australia where your dust is super fine and EVERYWHERE, any sort of vehicle thats is expected to be a mostly off road vehicle, it seems like a must. Sorry that happed to your rig, I would also swap to a k&n filter ( or the equivalent) an oil soaked filter should grab more dust than a dry paper one.
Good videos to watch etc and there’s just one point overall that I’m not buying I’m sorry.
In your first video - you showed the cylinder contribution & leak down tests on all cylinders results.
Only one cylinder was down, on compression, not all of them!
Dust ingress will ruin all cylinders not just one!
Dusty air will wear all cylinders prematurely not just one.
The contribution & leak down tests were performed correctly.
The results were interpreted incorrectly.
This erroneously led you to make a lot of investigation into the known air box filtration & filter issues.
Going back to just one cylinder down on compression - not the other 7 cylinders.
What seals each cylinder are the two compression rings and oil ring, & the assumption has been made that in a leak down situation the loss of compression must be past the rings into the sump.
That can happen where rings have cracked or where the rings have rotated until the joints on all 3 rings “line up” with each other and allow compression gasses to seep past.
It’s uncommon, normally the joints are staggered to opposite sides of the piston on installation to try & prevent this.
Cracked rings is another possibility but unlikely.
There are other possibilities tho!
Incorrectly adjusted valve lash on that one cylinder can prevent either an inlet valve fully closing or an exhaust valve fully closing during the compression stroke.
Driving the vehicle in that condition can cause the valve seat to burn & allow the leakage to slowly get worse and worse.
You made a $30k decision to replace the engine without pulling the head on that bank & checking the 2 valves & valve seats, a valve head might even develop a crack that could account for low compression.
Without having done that tear down & diagnostic, you probably wasted $30k on a new engine for a $2k repair to replace one head.
Who’s done valve lash adjustments on that engine during routine servicing?
If valves don’t seal you will lose compression on that one cylinder.
Most likely your engine you just removed could be repaired quite cheaply.
I think you’ve been badly advised / mislead by a back yard diagnosis that ignored the most obvious likely cause, & it’s cost you $30k.
Removing the head on that one cylinder now that the engine is out is a no brainer & I’m betting valve seating / burnt valve seat or even a cracked valve is your culprit.
Expensive lesson to learn the hard way.
But unless you do it, these 3 videos about the issue are just garbage that will most likely mis-inform others.
I’m aware this is a big cost to yourself, & your reasons for making the decisions you did, in as far as wanting reliability.
The air box issues are real - not criticising you for that, you addressed a well known issue well, your only “mistake” is in attributing your one low cylinder to dusting the engine.
Air gets fed to all cylinders, if one was dusted - they would all be dusted.
Any real mechanic worth his salt should have checked all that before heading down a 30k new engine route.
You’ll never sleep if you don’t pull that head & check the valves & valve seats.
It’s always going to plague you, the “not knowing”.
It would be worth doing if for no other reason than the mechanic who did the work & provided your diagnosis should learn from his mistake that’s been at your expense.
Without pulling the head, no one will ever know.
Pretty sure I saw it advertised on Facebook marketplace for $10k?
Who ever buys it is probably going to discover what you haven’t & rebuild it and sell it & make good $ - again, at your expense.
Putting up videos after the fact, showing your flawed logic process that just wasted $30k is dumb in the extreme, if you put it up before getting faulty diagnosis / advice, maybe you’d have got better advice & checked the obvious causes rather than jumping the gun, getting side tracked & spending half a years salary unnecessarily.
My 2c.
Here here well said. 👏👏👏
It's a Toyota, possible piston failure due to injector, plus stating in this video about fuel restrictions under high load, recipe for melted pistons.
I agree. To replace before diagnosis was dumb in the extreme. 30k are you mad
How about cylinders 4, 5 & 8....they are all down around 300psi which is below the acceptable/ advised compression I sort independently from Toyota, I was advised a healthy 400K old VDJ tested 360-370psi.....so whilst I don’t disagree something else might also have gone on with cylinder 2.....there are a lot of other signs through out the entire engine pointing towards dusting.
@@great_offroad_adventures this is true, but wouldn't you like to know the reason for the varied results ? Dusting usually evenly wears.
You may still have an issue with your vehicle that could cause the same damage to this new engine !!
Hope you made a spare $40k from these videos just incase.
Great Off-Road Adventures - Graham Reinders The other cylinders weren’t leaking down.
The compression values from Toyota are for a new motor, yours has done 280,000km’s?
It’s no skin off my nose, the money is spent. I’m just concerned that others might follow this flawed logic to similar errant conclusions is all.
I think it would be beneficial for others to know what the real underlying causal factor was.
Is there something inherently wrong in the engine design or manufacture that leads to this other than deformed air box and leaking air filter seals or wrong filter medium?
The early iterations of these 4.5’s used to use a lot of oil - mostly during running in period.
What did Toyota change to fix that? Could that be what lead to premature failure of your engine? Perhaps lack of oil to the valve train on cylinder 2 causing premature accelerated wear and subsequent valve closure issues?
It would be nice to know what actually went on here!
You say the engine was dusted!
Did you carry out any used oil analysis on this engines sump oil through Westrac here in Perth?
A dusted engine would show elevated silicon levels in the used oil analysis for the sand it ingested.
You diagnosed “dusted engine” on a whim with zero factual info to back it up & made a $30k decision based on a WAG (Wild Assed Guess).
You still have the engine, why not take an oil sample & have it tested?
Why not rip that head off and have the valves inspected for burnt seats or cracks - it’s only one head gasket to bolt it back on.
What if, as others have said, you haven’t actually found the real cause, and you lunch this new engine the same way as the last one in 280,000 kms?
Your potentially adding a $0.10c/km “engine tax” on the cost of owning a 200 series in replacing engines every 280,000 km’s.
A lot of people who might want to drop 120k on a new cruiser before they go V6 next year, would likely want to know the answers to all these questions before dropping that sort of coin, I’d venture to guess.
Don’t get me wrong, it’s your coin & I get what your saying about wanting the reliability of a new engine to go remote for your Channel.
It’s not the worst possible decision ever made in the world, but if it was me - I’d at least be used oil testing the old one to see if you have way high elevated silicon levels to indicate dusting, $50 for the test kit & test and then you would know you wouldn’t be guessing.
Another $100? for a new head gasket? Again you’d know if valve train issues caused your problem.
Is it possible you have a cracked injector pin inside the injector nozzle on that one cylinder & that’s causing both the rough running and pressure leak down?
When you think about 1 cylinder, the valves have to close fully to seal to hold pressure, the rings have to seal, and the injectors likewise.
Those are the only “openings” to allow pressure loss on the compression stroke, and a fault in any of those 3 could have been the cause of your issue.
Don’t you want to know for sure?
Aren’t you at least curious?
There are far to many dusted 200's that have been dealer serviced from for me to even consider the factory filter as anything beneficial. But the price comparison makes it a compelling idea
I have measured the gap between both seal faces with the Air Box assembled as 9mm which does not auger well for the aftermarket filter, ok, the seal is designed to open out under vacuum but I'd like to see more crush on that seal. My Toyota Filter seal measures 11mm after been in service for 14 months, so still some decent seal crush there.
Another thing to watch for is those cover clamps interfering with the Air Box closure during assembly & scratching the seal face on the upstream side of the Air Box, not a biggie but annoying.
A lot of discussion on the net about this subject but little video coverage until now, thanks to you & Jamie from Project 200.
I Just acquired a 200 and had heard about the dust issue . Googled it and found this video. Very informative, shame you couldn't name the filter. I bought a Donaldson filter as that is their game. The weight , depth and pleat is the same but there are 4 rows not five . The seal is 10mm. The airbox should pull down 3mm however you can tape the box to be sure. $42 / $70 . So for this purpose the video is great . Thanks.
Great stuff thanks, had a 2009 GXL from new fitted a SAFARI snorkel from new, country and outback travel. Dusted at 322k always serviced originally by Toyota for 200k dust was always said to be with in tolerance., compression test showed 2 cylinders down which was causing the miss fire under load, injector test was fine. Have upgraded to a 2015 Sahara had 70k on the clock, put an aluminium machined top from in WA did a trip on the Oodnadatta Track last February, checked regularly no dust. Re did the Oodnadatta Track in August and on inspection dust getting through, not happy Jan. love your video
Hi Stuart, thanks for that.
What airbox and filter did you replace with on your 2015 Sahara?
I’m sorry to hear that Stuart....sounds awfully similar to my situation.
I did some testing & ended up finding dust getting through the genuine Toyota filter media of the airfilter, whilst the big problem is the plastic airbox & seal, the 2nd half of the problem appears to be the filter media itself.
Best course of action, replace entire airbox with an aftermarket setup, that doesn’t use a filter for the 200 series.....ie. Moonlight 4WD (moonlight4wd.com.au/products/landcruiser-vdj-200-series-air-box-kit) which in my experience completely stops all dust getting in.
Hey Graham, 'in your experience' are you using the moonlight box now? How many kms have you run it now? Keen for your thoughts as I'm picking up a new 200 soon and not content with waiting 5 years to change the airbox... cheers mate
One could say that 😉....one could say it never left the workshop without it.....we are close to 25K now on the new donk, the trips you haven’t seen on the channel is where the combination of sock & box have proven their value to me.....we film for Variety WA, this means chasing 30-40+ cars around offroad for 4-8days at a time, anywhere from 1000-5000kms per event, now having to film them that means we are constantly dropping back then overtaking to get ahead to film again....so we’re in dust ALOT and their is not 1 spec of it in the new box.....that says to me.....problem is solved.
If you can hold out until Jan next year, I’ll have a video that covers all this & probably answers a lot of your questions.
Nice, I knew it as soon as you mentioned it in the vid. Good on you for holding tight after copping so much stick for throwing the original back in.
Would be keen to see you wipe a tissue on the lid, camera down the ducting like in vid 1 of 3 and also know intervals your changing them at now, I know you mentioned 5,000 but that could have been if it was factory everything. Anyhow looking forward to the update and all the best with the cruiser, you now have the ultimate--> a fully setup 200 diesel that's reliable again.
I feel for you Graham, when the warranty on the new engine is over can you tell Toyota what you really think?
Seriously the OEM air box has less structural integrity than a plastic lunch box...
However the SS air box looks the biz.
I would have pulled the Head, inspected the bores...if the bores were ok...then you just need 4 new Pistons and Rings. Or if you are really lucky maybe just a de-coking of the Rings...Its not a disposable engine....After all this I didnt see what the Turbos looked like....That right there would confirm your dust on the Left hand bank...I'm tipping the LH Turbo is worn and dusted a lot more than the RH.
I wouldnt mind betting the rings are all gummed up from EGR Air mixing with your dust.
Probably find if the EGR was deleted the dust would do nothing more than keep the Bores from Glazing.
I still think there needs a lot more investigation to this dust thing...I'm not buying its the only cause
Your video got me thinking and i checked my pajero, found dust in mine and the after market seal was pinched and warped. I hope i got it in time
Glad to hear the video has helped someone, I hope you’ve got it in time as well 👍🏻.
your latest videos are always going to cause "conversation" at the bar or around the camp fire … I personally found it informative, and, thankful that I only ever use genuine Toyota filters …. are things potentially going to go wrong??? …. hope not, but never say never …. cheers on your efforts …. much appreciate !!!!!!!
Cheers mate - appreciate the support & im glad you saw the videos with the same intent that I created them.
Great video and information. Just seen it.
Does the new air filter for the duramax fit in the original air box.
I see Terrain Tamer now have a metal insert for the top assembly which strengthens the top and also increases the clamping pressure. If the Duramax filter fitted, that would be better still.
Good well presented video Graham. Makes me glad I run genuine Toyota filters & other odds & sods. 👍
Cheers mate - appreciate the support.
@@great_offroad_adventures Thanks for the video Graham. I understand that it's only natural to go on the defensive when a statement is put forward which contradicts ones analysis and actions (i'm referring to Ian Moore & et al posts) however the comments do not come across as personal or misguided attacks. Do you not believe that the suggestions warrant further investigation (assuming that you have yet disposed of the engine)? I realise that it is human nature to sometimes avoid finding the truth when it may prove that one has inadvertently made a grave mistake... Note that I do not have the mechanical expertise to lay any judgement on this matter however I am looking at this situation from an objective perspective. Cheers
Thankyou Graham for the factual breakdown of all the components, without a beat up of brands etc etc. From this, everyone can see the conclusions " you don't speak of ", but are putting across. A side note, I run the MoonLight airbox, most important upgrade in my view....Thanks.
I know how you feel I’m going through the same pain now
You are appreciated mate . Great real world data.🇦🇺👍🏻
Just bought a new ute will only use genuine parts after watching this.
Great video keep them coming
A cyclone style prefiter like trucks have work well
Yes they do, but they are restrictive for the engine….which then puts additional load onto the seal around the edge of the airbox.
@@great_offroad_adventures Use instead of airbox. I used to own a truck and never had problems with dust especially when attached to a snorkel
Graham it looks like Toyota has brought the dust issue across to the 300!!!!
Just saw some pictures on FB page and it reminded me about your videos and the issues that you had.
🤦♂🤦♂🤦♂
It does look that way…I’m sure it won’t take long for the aftermarket companies to find a fix….shame that they need to in the first place
@@great_offroad_adventures Yeah sure but I guess big mining companies won't install after market product nor will replace engines at their costs.
H, thanks for your videos. I would be interested in looking closely at the compressor wheels for any signs of erosion
thank you for share video as great detail on watch on 4x4 tour as main point safety working engine all time .
yes got good problem as water leak inside turbo on isuzu 300 nps crew cab 4x4 with 5.2 engine
Im glad my defender has a steel tubulr filter housing...! However my 300tdi discovery has a square one exactly like yours..i have distroyed turbo wheel makes me think i would have the same issue as you have
Install the new airbox asap, no warranty for the engine can be void from other modifications unless proven that that modification directly caused whatever warranty claim you may have.
Good video mate thanks for sharing some good old hard facts!
Cheers mate - appreciate the support 👍🏻
Great Off-Road Adventures - Graham Reinders been reading all the posts mate, makes for some interesting reading being not a mechanic but l do like to try to understand these issues having own my own 200 series. Would it not be worth taking that head off for a little price of labour and a gasket to have a look? At least if you did find something as these guys think is possible it may make that engine worth a lot more 🤷♂️ money in your pocket if you could narrow it down. Or at least prove to yourself you were right. Either way your back on the road and while being 30k ya can’t take it with you and if l ever have this issue it’s new motor for me! Selling and rebuilding is not an option I’m to far in for that. Enjoy your new motor mate
What about sticking some wide tape around the entire seal of the lid each time you change the air filter. Costs bugger all, and could help.
Many have tried, including myself & to no avail.....the box is 1/2 the problem, the filter media itself is the other half.
Best off pissing them both off & completing a proper fix of the problem.
I’ve been doing that for some time now on my 2008vx which I’ve owned since new. Now with 330000ks, no dust ingress, all injectors with values under 1.0. Do all my own servicing every 10000ks, except for replacing major components eg. radiator. Country vehicle that does much heavy (horses) towing. Has mods such as TC L/U, ECU remap, HPD intercooler and catchcan. Happy to say that I’ve never had a major issue or concern with my engine or any other component except for normal wear and tear expected of a long term vehicle. Channel’s like this provide, generous people sharing their experiences in a transparent manner, are a great resource for others to make informed decisions about how they manage and monitor their vehicles. This includes all people who comment from their own knowledge and experience.
I love my 200 and enjoy looking after it through preventative maintenance based on info from forums like this.
Good info and would like a follow up video when you have run that setup in a dusty under load situation following in anothers dust. I would like to know if it passes the finger wipe with the lid in the sunlight to see if there is still that really fine dust there.
Great presentation & very informative. Could you please show a pic of the old turbos. I would love to see the condition of the turbo vanes.
I can’t put pictures in comments here (UA-cam don’t allow it) - jump on the Great Offroad Adventures FB page or IG page and send us a message, I’ll send you all the photos there.
Thanks, I will have a look
What about using a Unifilter with the tojo airbox in the mean time? Works well for me in the dusty Pilbara.
Great informative Video. Thanks.
Graham, sorry but your worried about warranty and yet you say your going to reuse the part you claim caused your engine failure 🤔🤔 Did Toyota say anything about catch cans and warranty ?
Please be honest in answering this question. I don't own a 200 LandCruiser, but what is Toyota's air filter maintenance recommendations and How often would you clean your air filter ?
I personally would look for a radial seal air filter like old Toyota's. There's a reason why trucks and large machinery still run them.
Hope your investment pays off.
Hey Graham, just wondering if the stainless box has any drainage system for heavy rain? Here in QLD we suffer from heavy down pours that can lead to ingesting water via the snorkel. This mixed with road vibration can lead to wetting the paper filter and starving the engine of air. The Toyota air box has a one way valve that releases water that may find its way into the air box. Just for your information.
Yes the stainless box has a little ducks bill 1 way drain in the bottom corner.
Personally, not attracted to dusty places, simply wouldn't go. My idea of a interment camp.
Can you add a temporary prefilter for travel in those places where the dust is miserable?
On our 200 I run the factory airbox with k&n aftermarket filter, I have seen no dust ingress into my airbox. I also run a unifilter snorkel sock. I am aware of course we are talking dust getting around the airbox seal but I check mine constantly. With that said Im still thinking of an aftermarket airbox, just in case. Cheers Steve
same here on my 200, i also use a pre filter when touring, youd be surprised on how much shit they catch.
k&n filters should never be used in any offroad vehicle, it's the filter sock that is saving your motor.
@@6226superhurricane riiiggghhhttt... im open to know why you think this?
@@glenod because k&n are garbage filters. this is know by everyone in the offroad industry.
www.project200.com.au/dm-iso5011/
@@glenod ua-cam.com/video/sJ3L-E-ufYo/v-deo.html
Good info thanks.
Personally I'd get rid of the panel filter and fit a cylindrical filter like cars used to have. Donaldson have some great options.
Only so much space available in the engine bay & as such no space for the big cylindrical filters & boxes.
Interested to know what your thoughts are on a precleaner? I thought that might have been in your changes too.
Says a lot for aftermarket products.Another prominent company did a comparison on the aftermarket oil filters and found a prominent manufacturer was not up to standard of the vehicle manufacturer.
The very first thing you do is pop the heads and check where and what caused the damage not make an assumption. Not saying the dusting is not a problem but with a cylinder down like that and others a little low I'd have to spit it and have a look cheers mate.
Shreck M injectors need a proper testing that's for sure.. next on the list oil and coolant galleries
I just replaced the genuine yota filter on my 79 series for the first time with a wix 42479 air filter. dimensionally it's same thickness as the yota filter but the the genuine yota filter had an additional flat foam like mat on the under side about 12mm thick to give extra protection. the genuine filter in this vid doesnt have that, maybe its been upgraded
just double checked the Wix filter and the old Toyota air filter together. both are the same dimensionally with regards to thickness about 51mm and the seal on both are identical. the Yota filter has 23 pleats and the Wix 32 pleats. the yota has an additional matt 7mm thick on the underside as a pre-cleaner and the pleated media seems thicker in the Yota filter. the delivery side of the airbox was clean as a whistle. all in all the genuine Toyota (Denso) appears superior due to the extra matt than the Wix
Have you thought about a pre-filter on the top of the snorkel?
Can vouch they work really well and nearly take all the dust out of the intake air.
Was almost going to buy an early 200 series .. I’ll be buying dust if I choose poorly
MADBONE It's going to be a very interesting used market over the next decade or so... Biggest issue of course is the labour involved to compression test the engine
I am very skeptical that dust caused your issues. I would suspect bad fuel injectors and I'd be interested to see results from an injector specialist examining those old injectors. Flow testing and latency times on a test bench would give some valuable information.
The dirt collection efficiency of both air and fuel filters increases as they collect more dirt, replacing filters that are not blocked such that the pressure drop is significant can be worse for your engine. The fuel filter on 70 and 200 series has a low-pressure sensor to inform the user when the filter needs to be changed. It could be a good idea to fit a sensor such as those made by Donalson to know when to change the air filter.
Blowing out air filters using compressed air is a bad idea IMHO.
Most filters can easily trap large particles down to around 10 microns. The most difficult particles for filters to trap are around 4 microns and those are not visible to the naked eye. Two micron particles are easier to trap than 4 micron. Good quality filter media is needed to be successful in trapping 4 micron particles.
I agree with using Toyota fuel and air filters. One thing that was not mentioned is the superior seal on top of the Toyota fuel filter, the aftermarket fuel filter I have seen have an inferior seal.
IMHO for dusty environments, based on proper testing not hearsay, K&N filters provide inferior air filtration and dirt capacity than good quality paper elements.
bushie ute Landcruiser have had an air filter pressure sensor for a very very long time off memory even my hj61 had it, I know my 80 and 100 diesels definitely do!
@@jamesrobert3114 thanks, but unfortunately they didn't fit one to either the 70 or 200 series with the panel filter element
Great video. Did Toyota replace the engine under warranty ?
A lip on the pipes to seal the connection between the airbox ?, might help
You really make me want a 200 now been looking at the 105 and doing an fte swap only for the solid front.. How's is the 200 off road in comparison. Would love a Sahara maybe an 09 or something I can get at reasonable price. I want lift 35s and to see the country. I was a patrol man but love my diesels so y62 yea I don't know. But Toyota tough and cold cold air con. With the aftermarket box do u think I would be wise to go this way. Thanks mate good video really enjoyed it
I had this issue in my lc200 4.6
I bay the filter from the dealer and spry it with K&N oil. Zero dust!!
Hi Graham, you did a video with ronny dahl about your LC200 and spoke of the lock up kit fitted to your rig, I have just purchased a 2008 LC200 beautiful rig and this system is fitted to mine but I have no idea how this works, any help would be appreciated as my previous vehicle was a hdj80r and that old girl you could just point and shoot, but with the upgrade comes the unknown
Great video mate and thanks for posting. Do you think you may have dusted your engine by using oiled cotton filters as mentioned. They are only for on road use as they are for better airflow but dont filter dust very well. Manufactures say that in the instructions.
I never used a oiled cotton filter - I used an oiled foam filter....very different. In the time I used the oiled foam filter I didn’t notice any dust ingress.....so no I would say I didn’t dust the engine whilst in that time.....it was most likely done whilst my old mech was installing cheap aftermarket filters like the one I compared against the Toyota one in my video.
Bugger the warranty, put the aftermarket air box on it. They probably will not honour the warranty anyway, so why risk engine damage?
Could You post a link to this airbox?
I don't understand why you would wait for the warranty to expire. Why risk dusting it again? Put the new box in and if it shits it's self swap it back. You wouldn't want to keep the old box and breath in a heap of dust for the duration of the warranty. A lot of damage could be done in that time and those toyota pricks won't replace an engine that is worn badly but within their acceptable leakage tolerances - which are rather high.
Some Dude It's all good buddy Toyota will cover the warranty... Even after you post videos online showing how you will re use a faulty deformed air box which has no chance of sealing to which your well aware of.
I really like this guy... He's nice.. to nice I think.
Sadly he either has rocks in he's head or maybe he's actually a bit smarter than I think and he is going to run this new box and re fit to genuine unit should a warranty issue arrise.. etc.
Btw I want to know the diameter of the intake hole into the genuine air box... Looks awfully small to me
if people are having trouble from dust why not fit a Donaldson dual filter systems that are used on heavy machinery, they have a round housing with an inner and an outer filter, there are also different grades of filter elements to suit from light to very dusty places.
They don’t fit into the compressed/ cramped engine bay of the 200.
@@great_offroad_adventures i would have imagined that, like the intercoolers on top of the engines in 4x4s when everyone else has them at the front,
Why didnt you change the air box earlier? You knew there was an issue with them sealing and allowing dust in. As shown in your modified episode with Rohnny Dahl.
Cant wait to see the fix, bugger i gotta wait 9hrs. :)
Sorry about that mate - would have loved to release it sooner, but always release Friday mornings 😁
@@great_offroad_adventures Did you install a catch can considering the Toyota engine warranty?
I bought a 2018 VX brand new and the first things i did was a catch can and a 2nd fuel filter. Toyota hasn't mentioned a thing about them and im getting services by them.
Great video, keep it up.
Oh what a feeling..
I looked into the aftermarket filter thing and I use a Donaldson filter, which is slightly thicker than the Toyota one ( only by approx 1 or 2mm )......what sort of grease do people use for the seal ?
Thank You
Why not keep in the car a ''Cello Adhesive Tape'',those used for Packaging ,and use it all around the air filter box ? cost nothing & 100% effective... actually i will try doing it soon.Thank you for the video.
If you are driving off road always grease the sealing lips of air filters . Been doing it for years on motorbikes etc. Looks like a shonky box from Toyota. What if a hold down tab breaks off?
why would you put the old warped toyota air box back in? and in regards to warranty they would have to prove your aftermarket air box and filter caused the failure. so if it seals and filters better and allows adequate flow there is absolutely no reason whatsoever to run the toyota airbox and if you do you might end up with a partly dusted engine when your 2yr warranty is up that toyota say is still within allowable limits.
I use a K&N What do you think good vid
Is the aftermarket a Ryco?
Who is the mob that make the airbox? You didn't put a link to them. Cheers, Andy
Sorry mate - my bad - it’s Moonlight Stainless 4WD Performance - moonlight4wd.com.au/
Hope that helps you out 👌🏻
Why would you use an airbox that dusted your engine. If you don’t find the cause you will dust another engine. Just a note airfilters work best when they are old and slightly blocked rather than new therefore don’t keep changing elements, and never clean them.
Hey Graham, I know you've got a vid coming out about the duramax box soon. But can you recommend it as a good replacement for the factory plastic box?
Yes….110% dust proof solution to the issue, one of the best additions I’ve done recently.
@@great_offroad_adventures Glad to hear that mate, I've got one on order now!
Does the new 2020 Hilux SR range have the same issue. Is this a deal breaker for anyone looking to buy a new Hilux. Any thoughts appreciated :)
Yes I’ve seen this as an issues with the current model Hiluxs, Prados & Fortuners
What’s a deal breaker for one isn’t for another.....have to make that decision for yourself.
Hi Graham, how often did you change the oil out of curiosity?
Cheers.
On the old motor we serviced it every 10K.....decided to do the new one every 5K....also going to do oil sampling with the new one I think.....see what benefits if it it offers & perhaps share my thoughts in a video on it.
Are you not concerned that the dust issue will return while in the warranty period and cause a problem for you in the future post warranty leaving you in trouble yet again
Nope - because it’ll be running a quality filter, not a crap aftermarket one like my previous mech was using for the last 200K.....and as soon as I can, like I said in the video, I’ll be fitting an aftermarket box.
At least it didn't get Corona Virus mate
Just a bad cough ;)
Really sorry this happened to you, but i've hearing this exact same story for years now
Pretty common with the 200
Really surprised you didn't have a Moonlight Airbox and Filter in years ago?
Great info with the Fuel Filter, i'll also add, the non genuine filter can have its filter material breakdown and end up in your injection system and lift pump, don't ask me how i know this :(
3500 reasons later, it will be Genuine filters only
@Hugh Jazz FYI the V8 diesel does not have a lift pump, only the high pressure pump for the common rail injection system, and a jet-pump to transfer fuel from the sub tank.
But just the same no one would want filter media in the common rail injection system if they break down as you say.
@@johndobbyns8651 Well, that's what the mechanic called it.
It wasnt a lift pump in the tank, it was in the engine bay.... some small little part that you can't buy separate, had to buy the whole assembly
@@mountainconstructions Are you talking about a 200 or 70 series?
They, like every other CRD I know of don't have a lift pump. Old school diesels usually do have lift pumps, but always before the fuel filter in any case, though many have a sediment and water trap between the tank and lift pump.
Why not fit that from the beginning!!
Unfortunately they’re known as Dyson’s for a reason. 🙁
dazza421970 - Good old achilles heal
The technology of filters is well developed for home, clean room, building occupancy, industrial and nuclear applications. It worthwhile to consult this known technology when postulating how these things work. For instance, you consider nothing about the performance of the filter media itself both new and loaded , the distortion of the enclosures seals with shock& vibration and thermal cycling, misalignment during assembly, failing clamps.
Interesting speculation. Sorry that your heavy and long severe servi
ce failed your cylinders.
I am confused? You state that you don't want to void Toyota's warranty , but you pay $30000 for repairs because you haven't received any warranty.
Because the $24K of new parts come with Toyota new 2yr parts warranty.
Twin turbo, Air box too small for dusty conditions.
Just out of curiosity did you have a catch can installed?
what is a catch can going to do to stop dust from getting in? Or maybe you are just curious if he has a catch can installed and my comment is irrelevant
re tards I’m curious if he had a catch can installed as the primary reason for a catch can is to prevent oil making it into the intake manifold. To my way of thinking if there was a bit of oil/sticky muck it might actually catch some of the dust within the intake manifold.
@@mrengineering101
Modern motors are designed to deal with the oil.
Robert I agree. I haven’t put one on my 200 and I won’t put one on. I think they are unnecessary and potentially cause serious damage
@@mrengineering101 how does a catch can cause problems ?
Sounds like Ryco filters, they are garbage and always more expensive than genuine
You swapped to Donaldson for true 99.99% dust free travel yet?
Nah Donaldson’s only just been released - We did this engine swap nearly 3years ago now….put in a Moonlight Airbox and cannot fault it!!!
Moonlight box bolted straight in, been completely dust free, I’ve done a video recently recapping it all.
Sounds like you need a Duramax motor.
Nah - just a new VDJ will do 👍🏻
The after market air filter is RYCO, it’s garbage.
You have just admitted you are refitting a warped airbox to your new motor, I'd suggest that will void your warranty
How? If Toyota are refusing warrant on the engine due to the fact the airbox is warped then they will be acknowledging there airbox has a fault.
Just wanna say Damn ... That's F**** up-
Not wrong 👍🏻
You didn't dust it Toyota did
Grease your filter seal
So what you're saying is, you aren't sure what dusted the engine? Why not mention air pre-filters for use on dust trips/tracks? These are quick and easy to fit when needed and drastically help in the prevention of dust intake and thus decreasing the work needed by the main filter. Sounds like the hard lesson learnt was be mindful of the risks of after market mods and the negative impact they can have on your vehicle. It's a crap place to be, to have to spend that sort of money on 'repairs', I do feel sorry for you to be in that position. I'm surprised though, that you are so keen to swap out the filter, and whole airbox infact, as soon as you can after having gone through this expensive process. Surely, lesson learnt ???
No - I’m saying the airbox warps & Toyota don’t acknowledge it as a fault, & the mech (now ex mech) who was servicing the car was putting this exact aftermarket filter in for the last 220K kms, which had a thinner seal which then amplifies the issue of the airbox distorting & thus allows dust in around the seal.....yes a pre filter would help if the seal actually performed it’s job & sealed.....hence why I introduced the aftermarket steel box (a modification) which is proven to seal correctly & alleviate the issue with the Toyota box.....and it’ll go in the day my warranty expires or the day I’m satisfied the new engine is healthy & im prepared to risk my warranty.
So yeah - lesson learnt, Toyota fell well short with producing a fit for purpose airbox for offroad use, collecting the kids from school it performs fine with.....if you go offroad, fit a proper solution to the problem.
@@great_offroad_adventures it's tough. you do expect that people design and make good quality products, but they aren't all created equal. its a sorry day when we say "thank you" for spending your cash and going through this, for the benefit and education of the rest of us. "built to oem standard"... yet they all seem to be different dont they. at least youre through it and out the other side. get back on the tracks and camera and have a ball mate
Alex Caddell - Cheers mate....appreciate the support.
Yep - the filter company box says, meets or exceeds factory quality....I’m not sure how when it has less filter media & a thinner seal....can’t go past a genuine one when it comes to Toyota.....but when going offroad, the box needs replacing in my experience.
With all due respect dust is not what killed your engine, it was EGR & oil vapor
Has anyone tried duct tape?
Ничего не понял,пиздец мотору из за пыли?
Air box more like shit box
Shithouse design, bordering on negligence. Deforming air box should not be happening. What is Toyota saying about this?
do not talk shit about toyota , they are obviously working on that, there is no perfect car as far as i know
I’ll happily talk shit about Toyota, these cars have been on the road for 12-13yrs and countless owners have been stung by this issue....and what have they done, nothing, the design hasn’t changed since it’s inception and they haven’t done anything to help owners out who have had issues.
Why would they when they can sell you a new engine for 30k.
Sorry upfront for the generic comments but Toyota is overpriced and overrated. If you’re planning to go into the middle of nowhere you can’t beat the reliability of the Nissan Patrol. I’ve had both an 80 and 100 series but now looking for a low km truck. I won’t entrust my safety with a Toyota anymore. Toyota cuts corners and expects the consumer to not only pay a fortune for its trucks but then another small fortune to bring them up to some sort ability to handle off road. I assume this is because they sell most of their trucks to the miners and farmers who don’t ask for much and will not modify them for serious off road use.
go and say that to ronny dahl or andre saint pierre white or others if they ever had "serious" problems with their land cruisers most of the offroaders and overlanders that i know only uses land cruisers
You are aware they don’t make a td42 new anymore or a diesel patrol... good luck making it across the desert using 20l/100km in the y62
Serious Weirdo!