Nice explanation. Thanks for having the engine on a stand. It really makes a difference when you can see exactly what you are talking about VS pointing into a cramped engine bay while juggling the camera for a poorly lit shot of who knows what.
I appreciate that. I was there myself, that's why I posted this because it took me 2 years to figure out the timing myself and didn't want someone else to give up on these engines without a proper video explanation. Thank you so much
I'm glad I could help. I researched over months and trial and error until I purchased a second mighty max from a gentleman who worked at Mitsubishi back when these were new and he gave me official Mitsubishi tech manuals and I was able to verify a bunch of questions I had come across and others had been having trouble answering themselves. I got lucky and am more than happy to share that information with my fellow enthusiasts.
I have a L200 and it look exactly as this looks and I always wonder it the mark on the top or the mark where you show to be the mark on the engine to used .
I just did mine and I have seen a few videos and they all say to rotate 2 times to make sure the timing marks line up. I had to rotate it 3 times to match the marks. Does it matter the rotations? This is a 91 mightymax and the videos I seen are for a passenger car.
I'll have to look into it. Like Toyota engine they sometimes have a cam that shares with other engine family. Usually you use the timing mark that's closest to the cam lobe being opposite of the opposite cam.
Hey Great Video. I have a question regarding the oil pump timing. Im working on one of these engines but it does not have the pulleys on the left side for the Balance shaft. If i dont have those does the timing on the oil pump matter? Ive been doing research online and a lot of the things ive read say that if the balance shaft is removed or in my case it does not even have the pulleys nor is there a belt that the timing on the oil pump does not matter. To my understanding is that if the belt for the balance shaft on the left is installed the oil pump timing is importan so it counterbalances. Is this a correct interpretation? Because the truck im working on does not have the arrow that shows were the crankshaft is supposed to be lined up nor does the oil pump have the arrow were it is supposed to be lined up. Im just confused and its kind of hard to eye ball it with out the reference arrows. So if my balance shaft belt is non existent does the oil pump timing really matter?
From what I've read it doesn't matter if the opposing balance shaft is not installed or present so the oil pump position won't matter since there won't be a counter balance on the opposite side of the motor. The balance shaft was more of a concept than an actual improvement in my opinion. I've seen guys remove the balance shaft when upgrading these motors to access more rapid power from the drive belt decreasing the drag on the motor. In theory the balance shaft was supposed to give the inline a smoother line and balance under heavy throttle but to this day I have not heard of anyone claiming to actually feel a significant difference in engine performance with or without the balance shaft present. I believe there is even a conversion kit out there to aid in deleting the balance shaft if it's present. So if yours currently does not have it and the oil pump marks aren't present you shouldn't have to worry about lining up the timing marks with the oil pump. I hope this helped. This is just from my own experience working with these motors someone else may have a different opinion or experience than mine.
@mittensthekitten5824 in about to have to change my water pump on a 94 mighty max. While doing so, I'm going to change the belt too. Is this the same engine. Mine is 2.4 liter
@@Factchecker9111 yes these motors are the same from 1990 all the way up to 1996. The few things that I've noticed different between the two is in 91 the cylinder heads were swapped with roller rocker arms and an obd 1 ecm and in 94 or 95 I want to say, the throttle body was changed for an updated model which crossed over to KIA and a few other models that used this engine up into about 2001.
@@justnick87 thank you for replying to me. I'm quite nervous about doing this job. It's my only vehicle. I have worked on vehicles of my own over the years, but it's been a while. This job feels like a big one for me.
@@Factchecker9111 Your welcome I totally understand. The first time I did it it was a bit nerve racking but it's a lot easier than it looks. The trick is removing all pulleys and the upper alternator bracket first, then the water pump. After that it's easy to get to all the timing cover bolts. Set your timing to top dead center (TDC) before removing anything. This way you can see if any of your marks are off slightly, remove the belt and if so line them up properly with their respected marks and install the new belt. When installing the belt start with the crankshaft then the oil pump up to the intake cam and then over to the exhaust cam. When you wrap it around the adjuster it should be a bit loose then just release the adjuster pulley bolt and let it tension on its own tighten bolt and check all marks again and if non of them moved and the belt has minimal deflection on the intake side your golden. Make sure not to get your cover bolts and water pump bolts mixed up. There is a few that are specific lengths and need to be put back otherwise you will have issues. There is one bolt specific it's the one for the upper alternator bracket, that bolt goes through the pump and bracket and trust me you don't want to mess that one up lol I made that mistake it was not fun. And the 4 bolts that hold the crank pulley to the shaft is easy to remove. Loosen those 4 bolts before removing any belts, leave the engine in gear and it will give you the tension to hold crank in place to loosen them. You don't have to remove the main center bolt it holds the crank gear in place not the pulley. I think that might be everything 😁
I see others showing to set the gravity on the oil pump before placing the marks in line . Do we do the same with the mighty max. I really like to know. I tried it but I don't see that gravity thing happening.
awesome man, I have a question, how do you set the timing with a light if you dont have the plastic cover with the timing tape? I did the old weber swap and its running really fast and hot.
If your using a timing light you'll definitely need the belt cover to use as a degree gauge for the crankshaft pulley to identify the timing position. The only other option would be to probably play around with the distributor or go to an auto parts store and get one of the aftermarket timing mark adapter that they put on the V8 to dress them up. They are usually in the performance wall at O'Reilly's auto parts. And just mount it to the block with some strong adhesive as a temporary if you can't bolt it. That might work.
I tried this timing on my 92 mighty max and it pretty much wouldn’t even start I’m 100% sure the cam and crank are aligned properly but I’m kind of stumped
Have you checked to see if you have any check engine codes? I have a 90 and a 91 and the 91 had a starting issue and it turned out to be the ECU. After rebuilding the motor put it in my 90 and it started and ran great so put it into the 91 and it refused to start. The codes pointed to a bad ECU I just wanted to verify before replacing it and sure enough the computer was bad. It's been just over a year and haven't had any starting issues since. If no codes id recommend attempting a compression test on the cylinders to verify you don't have a bad head gasket or bad piston rings. It's very simple to do and inexpensive if you haven't attempted before.
These don't have slave cylinders. They have a mechanical clutch cable. Goes from the clutch pedal all the way to the transmission which pulls the clutch fork on the pressure plate to separate the engine from transmission.
If you feel that it may be off double check that your cams and crank are aligned properly. If you feel that they are good next I would do a compression test on all 4 cylinders. I've found that these rings will be the first thing to give causing a loss in power. If compression is okay then do a full tune up, plugs, cap and rotor and maybe a heavier oil like 10w-40. And then just twist the distributor slightly left to right and see if you can raise the RPM slightly. 100 to 200 RPM won't hurt as long as you keep it between 750 to 950 rpm. I hope this helps.
I have a 1989 Mitsubishi mighty max sport. I have changed starter distributor new battery and still cannot get it to start and cranks but no start. Does anybody know what could be wrong with this truck. It a straight drive
Have you checked your fuel pump? And if so check the relay on the passenger side kick panel. That relay controls ignition, fuel pump and starter. It's hard to test it but it's not that expensive either.
@@justnick87 i dont know much. Its a neighbir of mine. It goes like this. He was running it on the highway and just turned off. He thought it was the ignition but after unscrewing he saw the timing belt broke. He had bought new ignition, fixed carburator, replaced all gaskets, valve block cleaned and inspected. After all this it started, was on for a couple of minutes then turned off. Now it wont start. Bad timing ??
@@waltercruz9651 sorry for the late response, busy job. Check the timing again it's real easy to get it 180° off. Start from the beginning. Then check to see if the plugs are getting a spark (ignition) double check to verify your getting fuel next and if all that is good do a compression check and see if all cylinders are getting the proper and equal compression.
I apologize for getting back to you so late. I just got a new phone and haven't set up notifications for UA-cam. To your question mine has been extended to 42 inches. It has been damaged so since I was repairing the damaged wire I added a 12 inch piece just to help with rerouting the wire through the intake manifold instead of over the head and along the exhaust manifold how it was originally designed.
You can try rotating it a full rotation then run the timing belt from crank to pump up to the intake cam. Make sure it's snug before wrapping the belt over the exhaust cam then around the adjusting pulley. Sometimes if there is slight slack on the intake side it will slightly pull it out of alignment.
There isn’t many videos of these engines on the internet thanks for your explanation appreciate it so much
Nice explanation. Thanks for having the engine on a stand. It really makes a difference when you can see exactly what you are talking about VS pointing into a cramped engine bay while juggling the camera for a poorly lit shot of who knows what.
I appreciate that. I was there myself, that's why I posted this because it took me 2 years to figure out the timing myself and didn't want someone else to give up on these engines without a proper video explanation. Thank you so much
I followed your instructions after I replaced the gasket and it was good 👍,thanks.
@@user-rg2pv6tj4t im extremely happy that I was able to help you. I hope it's running better than ever.
Thank you! Very helpful getting ready to do mine.
thank you bro!!!! best info ever!!
I'm glad I could help. I researched over months and trial and error until I purchased a second mighty max from a gentleman who worked at Mitsubishi back when these were new and he gave me official Mitsubishi tech manuals and I was able to verify a bunch of questions I had come across and others had been having trouble answering themselves. I got lucky and am more than happy to share that information with my fellow enthusiasts.
Great video man you couldn't of explained it any better very easy to understand
I have a mitsubishi L200, engine number 4G63, chassis number JMYJNK120XP000253, I would like to understand more about the engine.
Thank you! I was wondering why my truck was acting funny! When I bought it the guy had the spark plugs in the wrong order.
awesome video
can you tell me where the wires on spark plugs go?
I have a L200 and it look exactly as this looks and I always wonder it the mark on the top or the mark where you show to be the mark on the engine to used .
Thanks much for the vid
Mahalo from 1986 mighty max ❤❤❤
I just did mine and I have seen a few videos and they all say to rotate 2 times to make sure the timing marks line up. I had to rotate it 3 times to match the marks. Does it matter the rotations?
This is a 91 mightymax and the videos I seen are for a passenger car.
I see the mark you show to time the camshaft but on mine I see another mark ot the top and I was wondering which to used.
I'll have to look into it. Like Toyota engine they sometimes have a cam that shares with other engine family. Usually you use the timing mark that's closest to the cam lobe being opposite of the opposite cam.
I would be grateful to discuss my truck with you I like it but need it to have more power.
Hey Great Video. I have a question regarding the oil pump timing. Im working on one of these engines but it does not have the pulleys on the left side for the Balance shaft. If i dont have those does the timing on the oil pump matter? Ive been doing research online and a lot of the things ive read say that if the balance shaft is removed or in my case it does not even have the pulleys nor is there a belt that the timing on the oil pump does not matter. To my understanding is that if the belt for the balance shaft on the left is installed the oil pump timing is importan so it counterbalances. Is this a correct interpretation? Because the truck im working on does not have the arrow that shows were the crankshaft is supposed to be lined up nor does the oil pump have the arrow were it is supposed to be lined up. Im just confused and its kind of hard to eye ball it with out the reference arrows. So if my balance shaft belt is non existent does the oil pump timing really matter?
From what I've read it doesn't matter if the opposing balance shaft is not installed or present so the oil pump position won't matter since there won't be a counter balance on the opposite side of the motor. The balance shaft was more of a concept than an actual improvement in my opinion. I've seen guys remove the balance shaft when upgrading these motors to access more rapid power from the drive belt decreasing the drag on the motor. In theory the balance shaft was supposed to give the inline a smoother line and balance under heavy throttle but to this day I have not heard of anyone claiming to actually feel a significant difference in engine performance with or without the balance shaft present. I believe there is even a conversion kit out there to aid in deleting the balance shaft if it's present. So if yours currently does not have it and the oil pump marks aren't present you shouldn't have to worry about lining up the timing marks with the oil pump. I hope this helped. This is just from my own experience working with these motors someone else may have a different opinion or experience than mine.
@mittensthekitten5824 in about to have to change my water pump on a 94 mighty max. While doing so, I'm going to change the belt too. Is this the same engine. Mine is 2.4 liter
@@Factchecker9111 yes these motors are the same from 1990 all the way up to 1996. The few things that I've noticed different between the two is in 91 the cylinder heads were swapped with roller rocker arms and an obd 1 ecm and in 94 or 95 I want to say, the throttle body was changed for an updated model which crossed over to KIA and a few other models that used this engine up into about 2001.
@@justnick87 thank you for replying to me. I'm quite nervous about doing this job. It's my only vehicle. I have worked on vehicles of my own over the years, but it's been a while. This job feels like a big one for me.
@@Factchecker9111 Your welcome I totally understand. The first time I did it it was a bit nerve racking but it's a lot easier than it looks. The trick is removing all pulleys and the upper alternator bracket first, then the water pump. After that it's easy to get to all the timing cover bolts. Set your timing to top dead center (TDC) before removing anything. This way you can see if any of your marks are off slightly, remove the belt and if so line them up properly with their respected marks and install the new belt. When installing the belt start with the crankshaft then the oil pump up to the intake cam and then over to the exhaust cam. When you wrap it around the adjuster it should be a bit loose then just release the adjuster pulley bolt and let it tension on its own tighten bolt and check all marks again and if non of them moved and the belt has minimal deflection on the intake side your golden. Make sure not to get your cover bolts and water pump bolts mixed up. There is a few that are specific lengths and need to be put back otherwise you will have issues. There is one bolt specific it's the one for the upper alternator bracket, that bolt goes through the pump and bracket and trust me you don't want to mess that one up lol I made that mistake it was not fun. And the 4 bolts that hold the crank pulley to the shaft is easy to remove. Loosen those 4 bolts before removing any belts, leave the engine in gear and it will give you the tension to hold crank in place to loosen them. You don't have to remove the main center bolt it holds the crank gear in place not the pulley. I think that might be everything 😁
I see others showing to set the gravity on the oil pump before placing the marks in line . Do we do the same with the mighty max. I really like to know. I tried it but I don't see that gravity thing happening.
Set the gravity? I've never heard that term.
awesome man, I have a question, how do you set the timing with a light if you dont have the plastic cover with the timing tape? I did the old weber swap and its running really fast and hot.
If your using a timing light you'll definitely need the belt cover to use as a degree gauge for the crankshaft pulley to identify the timing position. The only other option would be to probably play around with the distributor or go to an auto parts store and get one of the aftermarket timing mark adapter that they put on the V8 to dress them up. They are usually in the performance wall at O'Reilly's auto parts. And just mount it to the block with some strong adhesive as a temporary if you can't bolt it. That might work.
I tried this timing on my 92 mighty max and it pretty much wouldn’t even start I’m 100% sure the cam and crank are aligned properly but I’m kind of stumped
Have you checked to see if you have any check engine codes? I have a 90 and a 91 and the 91 had a starting issue and it turned out to be the ECU. After rebuilding the motor put it in my 90 and it started and ran great so put it into the 91 and it refused to start. The codes pointed to a bad ECU I just wanted to verify before replacing it and sure enough the computer was bad. It's been just over a year and haven't had any starting issues since. If no codes id recommend attempting a compression test on the cylinders to verify you don't have a bad head gasket or bad piston rings. It's very simple to do and inexpensive if you haven't attempted before.
Where’s the clutch slave cylinder located?
These don't have slave cylinders. They have a mechanical clutch cable. Goes from the clutch pedal all the way to the transmission which pulls the clutch fork on the pressure plate to separate the engine from transmission.
I like your video my 2.4 is running like its timing is retarded lack of power what should I check? Much appreciated.
If you feel that it may be off double check that your cams and crank are aligned properly. If you feel that they are good next I would do a compression test on all 4 cylinders. I've found that these rings will be the first thing to give causing a loss in power. If compression is okay then do a full tune up, plugs, cap and rotor and maybe a heavier oil like 10w-40. And then just twist the distributor slightly left to right and see if you can raise the RPM slightly. 100 to 200 RPM won't hurt as long as you keep it between 750 to 950 rpm. I hope this helps.
1342 in plugs like that?
i got it! thanks
I have a 1989 Mitsubishi mighty max sport. I have changed starter distributor new battery and still cannot get it to start and cranks but no start. Does anybody know what could be wrong with this truck. It a straight drive
Have you checked your fuel pump? And if so check the relay on the passenger side kick panel. That relay controls ignition, fuel pump and starter. It's hard to test it but it's not that expensive either.
Can you tell me why my harmonic balancer decides to chear the lock pin
It may be out of round or the inside is worn out. It might be time to replace it.
1985 Mighty max. Turns on then turns back off after few seconds??
Are there any other symptoms? Anything you have replaced recently and how was it running prior to it running and shutting off after a few seconds?
@@justnick87 i dont know much. Its a neighbir of mine. It goes like this. He was running it on the highway and just turned off. He thought it was the ignition but after unscrewing he saw the timing belt broke. He had bought new ignition, fixed carburator, replaced all gaskets, valve block cleaned and inspected. After all this it started, was on for a couple of minutes then turned off. Now it wont start. Bad timing ??
And no response
@@waltercruz9651 sorry for the late response, busy job. Check the timing again it's real easy to get it 180° off. Start from the beginning. Then check to see if the plugs are getting a spark (ignition) double check to verify your getting fuel next and if all that is good do a compression check and see if all cylinders are getting the proper and equal compression.
How long is that distributor cord? My mechanic says autozone has the wrong distributor its like a four prong and he says the cord is too short
I apologize for getting back to you so late. I just got a new phone and haven't set up notifications for UA-cam. To your question mine has been extended to 42 inches. It has been damaged so since I was repairing the damaged wire I added a 12 inch piece just to help with rerouting the wire through the intake manifold instead of over the head and along the exhaust manifold how it was originally designed.
And yes it should be a 4 prong connection
All my notches line up except oil pump,anybody got answer?
You can try rotating it a full rotation then run the timing belt from crank to pump up to the intake cam. Make sure it's snug before wrapping the belt over the exhaust cam then around the adjusting pulley. Sometimes if there is slight slack on the intake side it will slightly pull it out of alignment.