That must be the 'Haynes workshop Manual' of running the Brunel (for those unfamiliar outside the UK, Haynes produce workshop manuals for cars as well as host of other stuff. I've got one for a Spitfire! Tips, tricks and mods, got the lot 😀.
Thanks for all your advice. I had bought a Mamod Brunel last year with the cladding and roof. I had issues with the burner and loosing pressure. Some of it was my fault, I added a Mamod whistle to it. Anyhow I sealed the piston gland with teflon tape like you suggested. I also raised the boiler with washers and it does run a lot better. I had tried moving the burner by drilling holes to make the burner more center, the boiler needed to be lifted. Do not move the burner more center, the heat will escape out of the stack. The ceramic on my burner became loose at one point. I had to use ultra high temp RTV to reseal it which did work thankfully. Now it runs great. I just need to buy die set for m3.5 so I can make an exhaust pipe.
@@Terrys-Steam-and-Bricks You're welcome and I mean it really did. I bought it last October of 2022. It was well built but not running right. Only suggestion I tried that you didn't mention is to put a larger Mamod flywheel on it like a SP4. That flywheel is a little over 2 inches wide I believe. I bought one from the UK and it was $50 shipped or so. It did add more mass and centrifugal force to help it run slow. It needed to stick out half an inch about further out than the stock flywheel which I believe is the same as their steam car. I put like four to six brass washers behind it so it could clear the frame and side rods. The small improvement wasn't worth it. To make it work well I'd have to remove the side rods and use gears and chains to connect the two drive wheels together.
@@stevenj9414 gears and chains is an interesting idea, as is the larger flywheel. Mine is running well enough that I am not sure I’ll make more changes. But the flywheel idea is niggling at me… Mine ran ok out of the box on a light load but stopped as if panting for breath now and then. I immediately packed the glands after the very first run and that helped a lot. Then after raising the boiler a little it was better again. Mine had a wobbly wheel which after a while just bothered me and Mamod sent new wheels and axels right away. I wish Mamods ran better out of the box. But they were less expensive than the closest budget engines. My Mk 3 had wheels so out of gauge that I had to tap them in. One side’s flanges ride on the middle of the rail. It may have been pressure tested but not placed on track. Yet, it is the best of the cheapest budget engines. My new Roundhouse Bertie was more expensive of course, but also ran completely flawlessly and like a dream out of the box. My Mamod Mk 3 and Brunel run that way now after some work. But again, less expensive. For people with limited means the Mk 3 or Brunel are great. If they go the very cheap (for live steam that is) MSS engine they may just be disappointed.
@@Terrys-Steam-and-Bricks I owned a stationary engine Mamod and a steam car. I couldn't get the steam car to run well enough to move on its own. The MM1 I think it was that I owned that ran well. I ran it at a trade show and a gentlemen there wanted it more than me so I sold it to him. This was my first experience with their new locomotives. That's crazy what you went through with wobbly wheels. I didn't have that issue at all however mine is a MKIII. Mine has a spiraling copper tube in the center flue. I know the later revisions were made better. Yup I remember watching your Bertie videos. The basic series is great. I got a Sammy which runs great, just can't get a pump bottle strong enough to push water in through the check valve. Tried clipping the spring. I did have a early 2000s Roundhouse Katie that as out of gauge I bought used. Probably the previous owner fault, it had some body damage bought used. I fixed the body damage and put it back in gauge anyhow.
@@stevenj9414 I have to press and hold the pipe to the check valve very tight to get water into Bertie. My Brunel does not have the spiral copper pipe you mention. I have a Mamod Minor 1 in my videos. It runs like a snap. I love it. ☺️
Well Terry Ive now watched all four of your new videos.What a treat and thanks for showing how to heat up the cylinder on the brunel to get her started. Bertie is running better and better. All so entertaining and great to see Terry Marie and felix getting talking parts.Hopefully Saddle will get a barking part soon.🤣
Thanks Dave! And thanks for lending your voice. Saddle did bark in the great turnip caper. When I first had my Brunel I had to spin that wheel lots and lots to get the loco going, as I am sure is the case with everyone. Then one day I decided to hold the wheel just so and let some hot steam come through. It helped a little.
Hi Terry. Great video! I recently ran my own Brunel based off of your instructions and she ran beautifully! I was wondering if youve ever run your Brunel (and indeed other mamod models) on tubular o scale track. I was curious as to how well mamod locomotives track on the tubular track vs flat topped stuff.
Brunel Mmod is a very cute locomotive, you ad a lot of interesting devices! Cheers Fabrizio
Thanks Fabrizio. I really like adding things and changing my engines.
@@Terrys-Steam-and-Bricks Ever great job my dear friends!
Terry, I really enjoyed your video, great work! I have miniature stationary steam engines, but no trains.
Thank you for explaining and sharing.
Ohhh well I have a couple of stationary engines.
ua-cam.com/video/9BX34uz0Mt0/v-deo.html
Amazing model Terry.
Thanks Hunter! 😊
That must be the 'Haynes workshop Manual' of running the Brunel (for those unfamiliar outside the UK, Haynes produce workshop manuals for cars as well as host of other stuff. I've got one for a Spitfire! Tips, tricks and mods, got the lot 😀.
Lol. Yes indeed! And we have Haynes manuals here too for every kind of car and truck.
Thanks for all your advice. I had bought a Mamod Brunel last year with the cladding and roof. I had issues with the burner and loosing pressure. Some of it was my fault, I added a Mamod whistle to it. Anyhow I sealed the piston gland with teflon tape like you suggested. I also raised the boiler with washers and it does run a lot better. I had tried moving the burner by drilling holes to make the burner more center, the boiler needed to be lifted. Do not move the burner more center, the heat will escape out of the stack. The ceramic on my burner became loose at one point. I had to use ultra high temp RTV to reseal it which did work thankfully. Now it runs great. I just need to buy die set for m3.5 so I can make an exhaust pipe.
This is wonderful news! I’m so glad you shared this with me. It’s made my day. 😊
@@Terrys-Steam-and-Bricks You're welcome and I mean it really did. I bought it last October of 2022. It was well built but not running right. Only suggestion I tried that you didn't mention is to put a larger Mamod flywheel on it like a SP4. That flywheel is a little over 2 inches wide I believe. I bought one from the UK and it was $50 shipped or so. It did add more mass and centrifugal force to help it run slow. It needed to stick out half an inch about further out than the stock flywheel which I believe is the same as their steam car. I put like four to six brass washers behind it so it could clear the frame and side rods. The small improvement wasn't worth it. To make it work well I'd have to remove the side rods and use gears and chains to connect the two drive wheels together.
@@stevenj9414 gears and chains is an interesting idea, as is the larger flywheel. Mine is running well enough that I am not sure I’ll make more changes. But the flywheel idea is niggling at me…
Mine ran ok out of the box on a light load but stopped as if panting for breath now and then. I immediately packed the glands after the very first run and that helped a lot. Then after raising the boiler a little it was better again. Mine had a wobbly wheel which after a while just bothered me and Mamod sent new wheels and axels right away. I wish Mamods ran better out of the box. But they were less expensive than the closest budget engines. My Mk 3 had wheels so out of gauge that I had to tap them in. One side’s flanges ride on the middle of the rail. It may have been pressure tested but not placed on track. Yet, it is the best of the cheapest budget engines. My new Roundhouse Bertie was more expensive of course, but also ran completely flawlessly and like a dream out of the box. My Mamod Mk 3 and Brunel run that way now after some work. But again, less expensive. For people with limited means the Mk 3 or Brunel are great. If they go the very cheap (for live steam that is) MSS engine they may just be disappointed.
@@Terrys-Steam-and-Bricks I owned a stationary engine Mamod and a steam car. I couldn't get the steam car to run well enough to move on its own. The MM1 I think it was that I owned that ran well. I ran it at a trade show and a gentlemen there wanted it more than me so I sold it to him. This was my first experience with their new locomotives. That's crazy what you went through with wobbly wheels. I didn't have that issue at all however mine is a MKIII. Mine has a spiraling copper tube in the center flue. I know the later revisions were made better. Yup I remember watching your Bertie videos. The basic series is great. I got a Sammy which runs great, just can't get a pump bottle strong enough to push water in through the check valve. Tried clipping the spring. I did have a early 2000s Roundhouse Katie that as out of gauge I bought used. Probably the previous owner fault, it had some body damage bought used. I fixed the body damage and put it back in gauge anyhow.
@@stevenj9414 I have to press and hold the pipe to the check valve very tight to get water into Bertie. My Brunel does not have the spiral copper pipe you mention. I have a Mamod Minor 1 in my videos. It runs like a snap. I love it. ☺️
Well Terry Ive now watched all four of your new videos.What a treat and thanks for showing how to heat up the cylinder on the brunel to get her started.
Bertie is running better and better.
All so entertaining and great to see Terry Marie and felix getting talking parts.Hopefully Saddle will get a barking part soon.🤣
Thanks Dave! And thanks for lending your voice. Saddle did bark in the great turnip caper.
When I first had my Brunel I had to spin that wheel lots and lots to get the loco going, as I am sure is the case with everyone. Then one day I decided to hold the wheel just so and let some hot steam come through. It helped a little.
Like cylinder drain cocks in a full size locomotive.
Great explanation 👌
Thanks!
Terry, I was wondering if you could do a video on how you regauge the Brussels engine please. Nice video and very helpful, thank you.
I can do a short. Regauging is simple.
@@Terrys-Steam-and-Bricks thanks that would be a great help
@@TheModellersMess I may have time to post something around about Sunday.
@@Terrys-Steam-and-Bricks thank you, take your time as I know you probably have other affairs in you life, I’m still struggling to find that balance
@@TheModellersMess lol. I always struggle with that balance.
Hi Terry. Great video! I recently ran my own Brunel based off of your instructions and she ran beautifully!
I was wondering if youve ever run your Brunel (and indeed other mamod models) on tubular o scale track. I was curious as to how well mamod locomotives track on the tubular track vs flat topped stuff.
Awesome!! I have run my Brunel, Mamod Mk.3, and Accucraft Sabrina on old Lionel tubular track and it ran just fine. I didn’t notice a difference.
@@Terrys-Steam-and-Bricks Sweetness because I have a lot of tubular track and would hate for it to go to waste.
@@dimitrilensflareabrams2893 proof!: ua-cam.com/video/c7Rjq2JeHuI/v-deo.htmlsi=Fur_PFvtEu0B1voX
I really hadn't realised it was a valve engine, thought it was an oscillator...oops.😅😅😅
Happily a valve engine. Easy to maintain slip eccentric gear.