Thank you very much. Your vid was a great help for me, youre the only one who is explaining it very clear thanks. Greetings Jan Michels from the Netherlands
Also. I'm a novice as you can tell from my previous comment but I use 2 ton epoxy. I buy the 5 minute set time and the 30 minute set time. The 30 minute in case I might need a little extra working time. It cleans up and thins using isopropyl alcohol. It's actually a great finish and you can thin the mix so it applies easily. I also use it as a finish on my fishing lures. Not supposed to yellow with age. After 3 years it's still going strong.
I've used the 2 ton in the past, but I would caution against using the 5 min set epoxy. For one, the faster set time comes at the cost of holding strength. Longer set epoxies have a better final strength. Also, if any delay occurs while using 5 min epoxy, you could ruin a set of scales. I learned that lesson the hard way.
I already did one knife, but you have some tips i appreciate. Big question is: I looked close, and at some point your knife recieved some file work to produce a "guillouche" effect for the back. I have one knife that has that, and I'd love to see how that worked. Perhaps its in another tutorial, so I'll look.
My knife blank has a hole that measures 3/16" on the outside but there is (I don't know what to call it) but at the very center the hole measures 1/8". Di I drill that out to 3/16" ? It's a very thin like inner lip. I don't want to try to pound the pin through. I thought the purpose of the pin was to add another measure to holding the handle pieces together.
If I'm reading your comment right, you got a pre-made knife blank that has a pilot hole and a secondary hole partially drilled through. If that is the case, I believe they put the 1/8" hole if you were using a brass pin, and the secondary hole if you are using a moasic pin. if you are using a moasic, you would drill out the remaining material to install the larger pin. While the pin does add additional holding strength (especially if peened) the primary reason for pins is for shearing forces applied to the scales.
I will never use anything other than Brownells epoxy again. It is so easy to use and the strength is unparalleled. I would suggest using the liquid formulation. If you have any doubt the holding power of the epoxy, take two 4" pieces of hardwood and glue the two together using only 1" on each end. Wait 24 hours and try to pry them apart, you will never question that brand again.
I've never timed it but i would have to say atleast 15 minutes. Ambient temperature will also play a role in set time. So if it's hot in the shop better not doddle
thanks, glad you liked it. I didn't post the final blade anywhere as I wasn't pleased with it. I never intended on finishing the blade, I was going to paracord wrap it and test to destruction so the pin holes were too offset to look good in wood.
Friendly, attention please (6:02 minutes): firmly secure the knife on the table of the drill, do not cut your hand if the knife rotate together with the drill.
I think you have it the wrong way around sir...you have to be sure that the drill bit is firmly attached to the knife, while keeping a hand firmly on the knife. or else it will not drill into the metal!
Would you suggest useing an epoxy or a gorilla glue for your knife handles? I've used epoxy but i think i screw up the mixing percentages and it doesn't get the right reaction. Thanks!
I would definitely stay away from the gorilla glue. One of the reasons it holds as well as it does is that it expands into both surfaces being glued. Anything expanding to push the scales from the blade would be a bad thing. If you are worried about incorrect mixing get a something like a Devcon 2 ton epoxy. It dispenses at the exact mixing ratio, I've used it in the past and it works well enough (Not acarglas good, but it works). Make sure you get at least a cure time of 30 minutes, my first go was with a 5 min set (It didn't go too well).
Awesome thank you very much! I'll have to try that next time! I only ask because my last knife which was a fillet knife, i used an epoxy and just recently the handle cracked right in half on the knife.
Gorilla makes a great epoxy that comes pre loaded in a two tube syringe. just squeeze out the amount you need and stir, no mixing needed. I think it's rated for 2000 PSI break strength.
So it's just the glue that holds it together? The mosaic pins do absolutely nothing🤔 If you wait a bit the glue will get a little thicker before it sets. I use 1 hr epoxy and I let it sit for the first 15-20 min gives the glue time to start to set makes it a little less runny.
The glue is there to seal the gap between it and the blade. It also holds the scale to the blade. The pins do all the work securing the scales in place. A shearing force is really all one needs to worry about for a scale to pop off. With the pins stopping them from shearing and the epoxy stopping the scales from pulling away from the scales they are not going to go anywhere. If I am going to make a big blade that will take severe vibration during the course of its normal use like a big camp chopper I will use corby bolts or screws and a threaded pivot. I've used 1 hour epoxy in the past but the longer set epoxies hold better and with a less viscous epoxy it will more easily penetrate into the scales. I've been making knives for almost a dozen years now and I've never had a scale pop off when using a moasic pin.
If you use an epoxy that is slower setting and mix it in a small (dipping sauce size) tub, you can place the tub in a vacuum jar and force the bubbles out, even the ones that won't show.
EBay is a good place to buy scales and pins or any of the big name knife stores. Usaknifemaker.com, knifekits.com, jantz.com. or you could watch my previous video and make your own pins.
propblast82nd not a problem. If there is any thing you can think of that would make a good tutorial let me know. I've been wanting to put something else together but just not sure what
Why not cut the excess pins with a hacksaw first? In this way, you overheat the pins, destroying the resin they contain, but also the firing around the pins has a collapse like cola. In fact, if your wood is sensitive to cracks like ebony or snakewood, then disaster is certain.
I've never seen a need to remove the excess material that way. I use a very heat resistant epoxy in my pins, and sand off the excess slow enough to not generate much additional heat. I've made a few hundred knives this way and have never had an issue. I figure if it isn't broken, don't fix it.
Thanks so much for this easy to understand tutorial on mosaic pins. I have plenty of cocobolo scales here in Costa Rica I use for kitchen cutting boars I make for personal gifts. P.M your address and I will send you some for free when someone travel to the U.S. Please specify cutting size you will like.
I doubt I'll get a response since it's such an old video, but my understanding is you do not peen mosaic pins ? I'm asking because I'm looking at making myself a custom knife.
Estou no Brasil e eu admirei seu vídeo suas informações. Muito bom, obrigado pelas excelentes dicas. por favor, escreví também um recado,gentileza excluir após ler. grato)
You have got to be kidding me! So many wasted foolish steps. Nothing worse than a teacher teaching a subject they have really never figured out. So much left out. Off after 5 mins.
Well there is your problem. If you turned it off after 5 minutes no wonder why there was so much left out. Seriously, thanks for your constructive criticism. Don't forget to like and subscribe 😉
If you peen moasic pins, you will do more harm than good. Because moasic pins are made from multiple pieces, they will break apart before mushrooming over. I scratch the surface of the pin with sandpaper to create more surface area for the epoxy to bond with. I've made hundreds of knives with this method and never had a scale detach.
prob the best diy knife making video ive seen yet. Simple and straightforward. Thanks for the video
Thank you very much.
Your vid was a great help for me, youre the only one who is explaining it very clear thanks.
Greetings Jan Michels from the Netherlands
I'm glad it was able to help you. Have you posted pics to any knife making sites? I would love to see your final product
Great video! I'll be referencing it when I make my dad's Christmas present. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! I hope it helps, let me know if you have any further questions
Outstanding and much needed video Thanks!
Great video 👍🙂
That's ace mate, thanks for sharing :)
Also. I'm a novice as you can tell from my previous comment but I use 2 ton epoxy. I buy the 5 minute set time and the 30 minute set time. The 30 minute in case I might need a little extra working time. It cleans up and thins using isopropyl alcohol. It's actually a great finish and you can thin the mix so it applies easily. I also use it as a finish on my fishing lures. Not supposed to yellow with age. After 3 years it's still going strong.
I've used the 2 ton in the past, but I would caution against using the 5 min set epoxy. For one, the faster set time comes at the cost of holding strength. Longer set epoxies have a better final strength. Also, if any delay occurs while using 5 min epoxy, you could ruin a set of scales. I learned that lesson the hard way.
I already did one knife, but you have some tips i appreciate. Big question is: I looked close, and at some point your knife recieved some file work to produce a "guillouche" effect for the back. I have one knife that has that, and I'd love to see how that worked. Perhaps its in another tutorial, so I'll look.
So they just work as glued in pins? I was expecting you to hammer them a little bit.
Nice!
Great vid, thanks.
Thanks, I hope it helps you out.
My knife blank has a hole that measures 3/16" on the outside but there is (I don't know what to call it) but at the very center the hole measures 1/8". Di I drill that out to 3/16" ? It's a very thin like inner lip. I don't want to try to pound the pin through. I thought the purpose of the pin was to add another measure to holding the handle pieces together.
If I'm reading your comment right, you got a pre-made knife blank that has a pilot hole and a secondary hole partially drilled through. If that is the case, I believe they put the 1/8" hole if you were using a brass pin, and the secondary hole if you are using a moasic pin. if you are using a moasic, you would drill out the remaining material to install the larger pin. While the pin does add additional holding strength (especially if peened) the primary reason for pins is for shearing forces applied to the scales.
Should I use a corby bolt ?
Thanks! Very informative. Do you think the Brownells epoxy is the best? I am trying to find the best epoxy to use.
I will never use anything other than Brownells epoxy again. It is so easy to use and the strength is unparalleled. I would suggest using the liquid formulation. If you have any doubt the holding power of the epoxy, take two 4" pieces of hardwood and glue the two together using only 1" on each end. Wait 24 hours and try to pry them apart, you will never question that brand again.
nice vid very informative thank-you.
thanks, glad you liked it.
Great video. Thanks. What is the working time of the epoxy?
I've never timed it but i would have to say atleast 15 minutes. Ambient temperature will also play a role in set time. So if it's hot in the shop better not doddle
Nice Build. Did you ever post the finished product?
thanks, glad you liked it. I didn't post the final blade anywhere as I wasn't pleased with it. I never intended on finishing the blade, I was going to paracord wrap it and test to destruction so the pin holes were too offset to look good in wood.
Friendly, attention please (6:02 minutes): firmly secure the knife on the table of the drill, do not cut your hand if the knife rotate together with the drill.
no pain no gain
I think you have it the wrong way around sir...you have to be sure that the drill bit is firmly attached to the knife, while keeping a hand firmly on the knife. or else it will not drill into the metal!
JK JK Jose' Silva is correct! And ALWAYS be sure to sharpen your blades after making the knife!
What do you make pants how of
How did you cut the pins for the handle and is there a tool for you to cut them
If you are talking about cutting the hollow tubes I used a tubing cutter. I cut the rest of the pieces with a dremel and a cutoff wheel
Sorry thought you were commenting on one of my other videos. I cut the mosaic pins to length with a band saw and cleaned the ends up on my grinder
It all good I appreciate the help .keep up with the work you have a alot interesting video
Would you suggest useing an epoxy or a gorilla glue for your knife handles? I've used epoxy but i think i screw up the mixing percentages and it doesn't get the right reaction. Thanks!
I would definitely stay away from the gorilla glue. One of the reasons it holds as well as it does is that it expands into both surfaces being glued. Anything expanding to push the scales from the blade would be a bad thing. If you are worried about incorrect mixing get a something like a Devcon 2 ton epoxy. It dispenses at the exact mixing ratio, I've used it in the past and it works well enough (Not acarglas good, but it works). Make sure you get at least a cure time of 30 minutes, my first go was with a 5 min set (It didn't go too well).
Awesome thank you very much! I'll have to try that next time! I only ask because my last knife which was a fillet knife, i used an epoxy and just recently the handle cracked right in half on the knife.
If you have any other questions or want to see some of my work feel free to check out my site.
bmbladeworks.weebly.com/
Gorilla makes a great epoxy that comes pre loaded in a two tube syringe. just squeeze out the amount you need and stir, no mixing needed. I think it's rated for 2000 PSI break strength.
So it's just the glue that holds it together? The mosaic pins do absolutely nothing🤔
If you wait a bit the glue will get a little thicker before it sets. I use 1 hr epoxy and I let it sit for the first 15-20 min gives the glue time to start to set makes it a little less runny.
The glue is there to seal the gap between it and the blade. It also holds the scale to the blade. The pins do all the work securing the scales in place. A shearing force is really all one needs to worry about for a scale to pop off. With the pins stopping them from shearing and the epoxy stopping the scales from pulling away from the scales they are not going to go anywhere. If I am going to make a big blade that will take severe vibration during the course of its normal use like a big camp chopper I will use corby bolts or screws and a threaded pivot. I've used 1 hour epoxy in the past but the longer set epoxies hold better and with a less viscous epoxy it will more easily penetrate into the scales. I've been making knives for almost a dozen years now and I've never had a scale pop off when using a moasic pin.
what do you use for the resin and epoxy? I need to know so I can buy some
I use Brownell's Acraglas to attach the scales.
I use Brownell's Acraglas to attach the scales.
If you use an epoxy that is slower setting and mix it in a small (dipping sauce size) tub, you can place the tub in a vacuum jar and force the bubbles out, even the ones that won't show.
Where can you buy the pins and the scales at and what website is reliable and not a scam
EBay is a good place to buy scales and pins or any of the big name knife stores. Usaknifemaker.com, knifekits.com, jantz.com. or you could watch my previous video and make your own pins.
Cool bandsaw,what model is it?
It's a 14" grizzly, if you are going to cut alot of scales a good band saw is a necessity.
Thanks, I'm starting to put together a shop and make some knives. Thanks again.
propblast82nd not a problem. If there is any thing you can think of that would make a good tutorial let me know. I've been wanting to put something else together but just not sure what
Why not cut the excess pins with a hacksaw first? In this way, you overheat the pins, destroying the resin they contain, but also the firing around the pins has a collapse like cola. In fact, if your wood is sensitive to cracks like ebony or snakewood, then disaster is certain.
I've never seen a need to remove the excess material that way. I use a very heat resistant epoxy in my pins, and sand off the excess slow enough to not generate much additional heat. I've made a few hundred knives this way and have never had an issue. I figure if it isn't broken, don't fix it.
@@Big-Muskey Thanks for your advice.
Hi, when I finished the knife I post some pics of it.
Greetings Jan
Thanks so much for this easy to understand tutorial on mosaic pins.
I have plenty of cocobolo scales here in Costa Rica I use for kitchen cutting boars I
make for personal gifts. P.M your address and I will send you some for free when
someone travel to the U.S. Please specify cutting size you will like.
I doubt I'll get a response since it's such an old video, but my understanding is you do not peen mosaic pins ?
I'm asking because I'm looking at making myself a custom knife.
It my be an old video but I still check my mail. Do not peen moasic pins. it will loosen the epoxy holding the moasic together.
Estou no Brasil e eu admirei seu vídeo suas informações. Muito bom, obrigado pelas excelentes dicas.
por favor, escreví também um recado,gentileza excluir após ler. grato)
What is the point of using a pein, if your using epoxy!!
Shearing force knucklehead
Круто
Its a ball pein or, cross pein . As in pirng!!
On the Stodoys website, you buy access to thousands of projects once.
You have got to be kidding me! So many wasted foolish steps. Nothing worse than a teacher teaching a subject they have really never figured out. So much left out. Off after 5 mins.
Well there is your problem. If you turned it off after 5 minutes no wonder why there was so much left out. Seriously, thanks for your constructive criticism. Don't forget to like and subscribe 😉
Is there a need to "peen" the pins?
If you peen moasic pins, you will do more harm than good. Because moasic pins are made from multiple pieces, they will break apart before mushrooming over. I scratch the surface of the pin with sandpaper to create more surface area for the epoxy to bond with. I've made hundreds of knives with this method and never had a scale detach.
NO VICE, KNIFE BLADE???
Hate, the difference between Englas und Umerican, WE say pien, you pain!