nice detail on this project, the wheel removal a must.mine sqeeks just for 4 to 5 seconds when first crank..i thought this had a serptine pully at first till i seen your video..
For the idler pulley, is this like a 4runner, were righty is actually loosely and lefty is actually tighty? I don't want to accidently strip my idler pulley screw while trying to replace it. That would be a very sad day.
It might be a 9mm, I can't remember exactly but it was definitely the smallest of all the bolts I was working with. Hope your were able to find the right size.
I know it sounds crazy, but all you have to do for the serpentine belt is turn the pulley bolt CLOCKWISE, if you are standing at the front of the car, it will pull towards you, and give TONS of room for belt replacement, saves the time of removing any other components whatsoever. ua-cam.com/video/MivFRFBH7Hk/v-deo.html
The wired thing is that I knew that information from old cars we owned (1876 Nissan and 1990 GMC) but I thought may be the method is changed and I was convinced of that after watching some videos on UA-cam, but the new method seems too time consuming. After seeing your comment, I restored my believe in the old methods ☺
The method for removing and installing the belt depends on the type of tensioner system the engine is equipped with. The engine in the other video has a spring loaded automatic tensioner. The engine in this video has a manual tensioner for each belt, so the method used in the other video will not work on this engine. Many really old vehicles didn't have tensioners at all. The adjustment was in the bracket for the power steering pump, or alternator, etc. With the mounting bolts loose, you pried on that component with a big screw driver to get the belt tight and then snugged up the bolts. Some things have indeed gotten better over time, lol.
@@1NcognitoXxYeah, that is odd. From what I can tell, only 2003 Sentra models with the 2.5 liter engine used the automatic tensioner. Who knows, Friday car maybe? 😂
I had to loosen the left bolt as well a little to give it enough flex for the right bolt to go back in. Then once they were both started I tightened them down. I also allowed the alternator to rock towards the front and then tightened that bolt last.
nice detail on this project, the wheel removal a must.mine sqeeks just for 4 to 5 seconds when first crank..i thought this had a serptine pully at first till i seen your video..
too bad it never works this easy. those two bolt donr do damn thing
Yup they can be a pain
For the idler pulley, is this like a 4runner, were righty is actually loosely and lefty is actually tighty?
I don't want to accidently strip my idler pulley screw while trying to replace it. That would be a very sad day.
Do you happen to remember what size the alternator tension bolt was? I’ve tried an 8mm and a 10mm. Can’t believe it would be a 9mm, but a 3/8 fit.
I'm literally messing with it right now had to replace the idler pulley. 13 mil for the center bolt of the idle pulley and 12 mil for the tension bolt
It might be a 9mm, I can't remember exactly but it was definitely the smallest of all the bolts I was working with. Hope your were able to find the right size.
8 mm worked for me but you have to wiggle it on. Tight fit.
I know it sounds crazy, but all you have to do for the serpentine belt is turn the pulley bolt CLOCKWISE, if you are standing at the front of the car, it will pull towards you, and give TONS of room for belt replacement, saves the time of removing any other components whatsoever.
ua-cam.com/video/MivFRFBH7Hk/v-deo.html
Great tip, thanks!
The wired thing is that I knew that information from old cars we owned (1876 Nissan and 1990 GMC) but I thought may be the method is changed and I was convinced of that after watching some videos on UA-cam, but the new method seems too time consuming.
After seeing your comment, I restored my believe in the old methods ☺
The method for removing and installing the belt depends on the type of tensioner system the engine is equipped with. The engine in the other video has a spring loaded automatic tensioner. The engine in this video has a manual tensioner for each belt, so the method used in the other video will not work on this engine. Many really old vehicles didn't have tensioners at all. The adjustment was in the bracket for the power steering pump, or alternator, etc. With the mounting bolts loose, you pried on that component with a big screw driver to get the belt tight and then snugged up the bolts. Some things have indeed gotten better over time, lol.
@@jasperrc Thats weird I definitely did it in my 2003 1.8L sentra.
@@1NcognitoXxYeah, that is odd. From what I can tell, only 2003 Sentra models with the 2.5 liter engine used the automatic tensioner. Who knows, Friday car maybe? 😂
I’m having trouble getting the right bolt back on after the belt is installed. Any advice?
I had to loosen the left bolt as well a little to give it enough flex for the right bolt to go back in. Then once they were both started I tightened them down. I also allowed the alternator to rock towards the front and then tightened that bolt last.
How do u do it on a 2006 SER spec v Sentra
I can’t see anything lol