I am Electronic Tech from the Navy. Over all I give your video an awesome score in effect explaining to the novice. I only have point I wish to suggest. It is 'current' that kills and as you said at one point if the Allen touch from ground to + it could weld it, maybe explode battery too. So I recommend always remove + first and grab some tie straps, or wire tape and make sure they touch nothing. Then remove the ground ( - ) and the chassis straps. While 12vDC is safe that battery has 400 amps more less. It only takes 15 milliamps yes wired to your heart to stop it or if you finger was between ground and positive it would fry, burn, roast it same way you suggest the Allen wrench be welded. I only point all this out as I am concern for safety but I really enjoyed your video, awesome! ------- Note to all, this unit was dead so it was worth the risk to change the solder on fuse. It really hard to troubleshoot a circuit board without schematics and more test equipment. I think the video was worth the try to fix the unit.
Thanks for the Video, My comments to those that complained is that dis-assembly is a very long process, but i enjoyed watching the process and seeing the construction of the Goal Zero, and wiring. I like the Goal Zero but I think a component system is better and allows you to quickly troubleshoot each item. This helped me decide not to go the Goal Zero route.
Just wanted to thank you for posting this! I was able to replace the stock inverter with an aftermarket one and restore almost all functionality back. This video was a huge help!
I'm really diggin your channel! Every time I have a question and search on here, your video's are in the top 5 of search results and always give me exactly what I need! The visual, explanation and handy direct links for ordering. Keep up the good work!
This from goal zero: "Replacing the fuse if straightforward, simply remove the fuse with some force using needle nose pliers. Once the fuse has been replaced you should do a software reset on your Yeti 400 by pressing and holding down the “Display” button for one minute, after one minute release the display button which should finalize the software reset and do a factory wipe on the inverter."
@@createthisdotcom Goal Zero is probably referring to the user replaceable blue fuses connected to the chaining ports on the side and not the red fuse of the inverter board. Have you tried checking the some of the other components on the inverter board? Probably a bad mosfet like another user mentioned causing a short. If you fix that and replace the fuse again, it might work again. This video shows how to find and fix a bad mosfet, not for the Goal Zero, but it could still apply. ua-cam.com/video/k8IXuNV1VXY/v-deo.html
Great how to. Did you get the fuse fault icon before the fault was seen? I have a GZ 400 AGM which since the battery went flat the display now shows fuse fault. Have reset display (60 seconds hold) then restarts. Both “blue” ATC fuses look good, but wondering if fuse fault icon is only based on red fuse. Oddly I get a light up on my AC which leads me to believe red fuse is ok. Yours went pop
I repaired one that had a bad mosfet on the inverter output stage. Once I replaced the offending 3$ item everything came back up fine. An oscilloscope would help sort out the components that are faulted if you have access to one.
Thanks for posting: Now I know that my open inverter fuse on one of my Yeti 400s has ended AC output forever. Never try to power anything over 360 watts. ...Gee..... why didn't they brand these "Yeti 360s" ? Now all its good for is 2 of my LAL 350s. But thanks for helping me avoid your Yeti nightmare.
one thing i would be careful of is the temp on your iron i noticed you had it set to 750 i personally would have worked with 600-650. one thing ive learned about 750 when i first started soldering is that it has a tendency to fry boards. Good video though nice to see the inside of the yeti
it looks like your wires were crossed for the AC invertor the way it shuts off right away when you click the AC on button. Or your soldering work was making a connection.
You should always remove the negative battery terminal first so that if the tool touches ground, you don't create a short. And re-connect the negative last for the same reason.
you should have soldered two long enough wires to the board, then later add the fuse base but for now solder the wires to the new fuse, or use some crimp/solder push on connectors, they should have had those
My red fuse is not blown...but the piece with all the wires in a coil, looks kinda like a hair bun, has a broken solder. Would that cause the inverter to fail??
Eventually everything will get bad after used for a while , But I like to see if any body have change the batteries to a lithium batteries and get more juice out of it. Gone through all of that just to replace the fuse , I would be mad too. Its all good. Thanks for the video :)
Could there be a short inside the AC plugs themselves? With blowing fuse after fuse like that, that's the first thing I would trace it back to. Easy to replace a bad socket than some other soldered on piece of circuitry.
Is this the fuse that stops the unit from charging? I’m having a problem where my unit isn’t charging. I bought a new charger and everything but no go. The two 60 fuses look good but I haven’t torn it down far enough to really check that red 40. If it’s the fuse that enables charging of the unit then I will try this.
+Ben (Ben Hoste) no, I just bought an external inverter and attached it to an lvd (low voltage disconnect) and attached them in series via the Anderson connectors on the side. Not as compact, but works just as well.
hey; i hope you can help me. the lcd pannel indicates that the fuses are blown. I wrote to goal zero cs and they said they are irreplacable. now how can i now which one were blown; i mean the grean one or the read. to cgange the read is beyind me. i appreciate your help. thanks
+Marcos Enrique Ruiz Rivero II (AVIEL) if I remember correctly, the fuses on top are only for the Anderson connectors on the sides. You will have to take the top off to see, just like in the video.
+راشد العازمي You have two choices: 1.) Replace the entire Yeti 400 under warranty 2.) Buy an external inverter. I went with the second option. Check it out: ua-cam.com/video/Wg1Nz5C0rrE/v-deo.html
+Marcos Enrique Ruiz Rivero II (AVIEL) Unfortunately, I did not. I ended up building a solar generator from parts, instead. Only part I re-used was the battery, and even that is going to be replaced as I've got a 1200wh lifepo4 battery on the shelf waiting to be bottom balanced.
+Marcos Enrique Ruiz Rivero II (AVIEL) you're welcome to try this yourself. you might have better luck than I did. but ultimately, yes, the yeti 400 is a disposable product, not a repairable one. I feel your pain.
If you had a warranty you wouldn't be taking it apart lol. No warranty nothing to loose. You can send it in for repair but cost of shipping and part might be as much as a new unit unfortunately. So diy is the best option.
Actually I did have a warranty and they offered to fix it under warranty. Guess I’m just the take it apart anyway sort of guy. What makes you think I didn’t have a warranty?
createthis no I was replaying to your comment about "it will void your warranty" your video is to show how to fix it and for other reasons as stated on the comments in video that had you do it urself. My comment was for the viewer if you are a viewer you should contact them first before doing the repair yourself. After warranty then do as you please.
I don't believe there would be an electrocution risk with this kind of inverter. Any significant capacitance would be on the input side, which is low voltage. The output side is AC, so there would not be any capacitance there.
+Jared Reabow (Jazza) Yup. I mentioned why I didn't do that in the video. Definitely preferable, though. My inverter is most definitely fried now. That last fuse must have been bridged somewhere as it let the magic smoke out.
+createthis so the whole thing no longer works? if so i would suggest contacting them directly for an entire board replacement or having a look to see where it has gone pop. also don't re assemble the entire thing each time, just plug it in so you can observe the whole thing.
Jared Reabow I wouldn't do that to Goal Zero. It's obvious that I've disassembled the unit, which probably voids the warranty. In addition, it's pretty obvious the unit has been wet a few times (calcium deposits on the boards). I haven't exactly been kind to my Yeti 400 and at this point I can't blame Goal Zero's craftsmanship for my inverter failing due to mistakes between the chair and the keyboard, so to speak. I'll disconnect the inverter and see if I can still use the charge controller (I don't know if the charge controller is housed in the upper board or not). If I can't, I've got another charge controller laying around from another project. I can re-use the battery with that.
If you put a Lithium Ion Battery in your Yeti 400, you have a FIRE looking for a place to happen! The Charge Controller in the Yeti is designed for AGM or Lead Acid Batteries only. The Yeti Controller will overcharge to L.I. Battery. Goal Zero's lawyers will have you for LUNCH!
+Bruce Forster did anyone say anything about putting a lithium ion battery into a stock yeti 400? I think you misunderstand what I was saying. I meant "look at how light the Yeti 400 would be if they DESIGNED it to use a lithium ion battery in the FIRST PLACE".
It happens. Batteries are capable of delivering a lot of amps very quickly. This is why you should always remove any rings on your fingers before working with car batteries.
createthis yeah I know. But 12 volts doesn't hurt us, our bodies are too high impedance. Wall outlet sure, at 120 or 220. Current does kill but not at 12 volts
Jonathan Fisher For the layman reading this, who may be misinformed by the above comment - the concern here is not electrocution, it's heat. Even if just 12v is shorted by a low resistance object, like a ring, high current will cause that object to rapidly heat. Thus, why 12v could potentially cause and arc weld.
Not the most electrically knowlegeable dissertation I've ever heard. 12 volts won't shock most people unless your hands are wet and even that is at most a mild tingle. Unless the inverter is running, there's not enough voltage to kill you. With the battery disconnected, there is no other source of power. Typical AGM batteries can deliver 700-1000 charge/discharge cycles at 50% depth of discharge (go to the manufacturer for the datasheet on your battery). Like all lead-acid batteries, lower discharge means more cycles but there's a limit to that - batteries discharged 10% on a regular basis last longer (in time) than those never discharged that much (every 10 days to 2 weeks for mine, depending on the next sunny day). Typical AGM battery life is 5-7 years but I changed out the AGM battery bank on my small solar system (12 volts, 420AH, 5040 watt hours) a few months before the batteries reached 9 years of age so I must be doing something right ;-)
Watched the whole video and the ending was perfect!
Fuckin hell is right... I watched the whole thing
I am Electronic Tech from the Navy. Over all I give your video an awesome score in effect explaining to the novice. I only have point I wish to suggest. It is 'current' that kills and as you said at one point if the Allen touch from ground to + it could weld it, maybe explode battery too. So I recommend always remove + first and grab some tie straps, or wire tape and make sure they touch nothing. Then remove the ground ( - ) and the chassis straps. While 12vDC is safe that battery has 400 amps more less. It only takes 15 milliamps yes wired to your heart to stop it or if you finger was between ground and positive it would fry, burn, roast it same way you suggest the Allen wrench be welded. I only point all this out as I am concern for safety but I really enjoyed your video, awesome! ------- Note to all, this unit was dead so it was worth the risk to change the solder on fuse. It really hard to troubleshoot a circuit board without schematics and more test equipment. I think the video was worth the try to fix the unit.
Awesome feedback and info, thanks!
Thanks for the Video, My comments to those that complained is that dis-assembly is a very long process, but i enjoyed watching the process and seeing the construction of the Goal Zero, and wiring. I like the Goal Zero but I think a component system is better and allows you to quickly troubleshoot each item. This helped me decide not to go the Goal Zero route.
Just wanted to thank you for posting this! I was able to replace the stock inverter with an aftermarket one and restore almost all functionality back. This video was a huge help!
What inverter did you get?
@@jamalwilliams315 yeah, same question…My yeti 400 has the same issue. I only ever use mine indoors, plugged to A/c outlet with my cpap plugged in.
I'm really diggin your channel! Every time I have a question and search on here, your video's are in the top 5 of search results and always give me exactly what I need! The visual, explanation and handy direct links for ordering. Keep up the good work!
Thanks. You helped me find the right fuse. Followed your guide, with one crucial difference. Mine now works.
I’m glad my failure could help you succeed!
This from goal zero:
"Replacing the fuse if straightforward, simply remove the fuse with some force using needle nose pliers. Once the fuse has been replaced you should do a software reset on your Yeti 400 by pressing and holding down the “Display” button for one minute, after one minute release the display button which should finalize the software reset and do a factory wipe on the inverter."
+johnnyeddie does it look like needle nose pliers will do it to you? ;) maybe those are instructions for a new model?
@@createthisdotcom Goal Zero is probably referring to the user replaceable blue fuses connected to the chaining ports on the side and not the red fuse of the inverter board. Have you tried checking the some of the other components on the inverter board? Probably a bad mosfet like another user mentioned causing a short. If you fix that and replace the fuse again, it might work again. This video shows how to find and fix a bad mosfet, not for the Goal Zero, but it could still apply. ua-cam.com/video/k8IXuNV1VXY/v-deo.html
"Blew the fucking fuse again" Sorry I LOL'd so hard at this as I been in this situation so many times!!
5 years later I sat and watched to the very end and that was the best ending ever 😂😂😂😆😆😆
Glad you enjoyed my pain. 😂
Great how to. Did you get the fuse fault icon before the fault was seen? I have a GZ 400 AGM which since the battery went flat the display now shows fuse fault. Have reset display (60 seconds hold) then restarts. Both “blue” ATC fuses look good, but wondering if fuse fault icon is only based on red fuse. Oddly I get a light up on my AC which leads me to believe red fuse is ok. Yours went pop
All that work and it failed. Been there, I felt your pain.
😥
I repaired one that had a bad mosfet on the inverter output stage. Once I replaced the offending 3$ item everything came back up fine. An oscilloscope would help sort out the components that are faulted if you have access to one.
Thanks for posting: Now I know that my open inverter fuse on one of my Yeti 400s has ended AC output forever. Never try to power anything over 360 watts. ...Gee..... why didn't they brand these "Yeti 360s" ? Now all its good for is 2 of my LAL 350s. But thanks for helping me avoid your Yeti nightmare.
its 400wh means the total capacity the manual says cleary not above 300,
one thing i would be careful of is the temp on your iron i noticed you had it set to 750 i personally would have worked with 600-650. one thing ive learned about 750 when i first started soldering is that it has a tendency to fry boards. Good video though nice to see the inside of the yeti
thanks for the video im getting ready to get 1 of theses set up and im trying to learn as much as I can good and bad so thank you for your video
6 years later and this video is still makes LMAO. came back to this because i bought a used one as parts on ebay and it has a blown fuse lol.
Did you have a AC! Code on display before having to disassemble ?
Always remove the negative first. This ensures that you cannot short your wrench to the chassis or ground.
it looks like your wires were crossed for the AC invertor the way it shuts off right away when you click the AC on button. Or your soldering work was making a connection.
IT is absolutely STUPID on GOAL ZERO'S part to design the inverter fuse connection this way!
You should always remove the negative battery terminal first so that if the tool touches ground, you don't create a short. And re-connect the negative last for the same reason.
you should have soldered two long enough wires to the board, then later add the fuse base but for now solder the wires to the new fuse, or use some crimp/solder push on connectors, they should have had those
My red fuse is not blown...but the piece with all the wires in a coil, looks kinda like a hair bun, has a broken solder. Would that cause the inverter to fail??
Eventually everything will get bad after used for a while , But I like to see if any body have change the batteries to a lithium batteries and get more juice out of it. Gone through all of that just to replace the fuse , I would be mad too. Its all good. Thanks for the video :)
+Rss L lithium batteries need special care charging, so no, you won't find any lithium swaps.
Could there be a short inside the AC plugs themselves? With blowing fuse after fuse like that, that's the first thing I would trace it back to. Easy to replace a bad socket than some other soldered on piece of circuitry.
Can you make a video of hooking up the wires back .
Just reverse the steps.
@@createthisdotcom lol lol lol . I think I should have watched it all before opening my big mouth. Ahhh hahah thanks man
Question does anyone has ever get no power in your 110 outlet and still the power button still ligth on? What it could be?
Is this the fuse that stops the unit from charging? I’m having a problem where my unit isn’t charging. I bought a new charger and everything but no go. The two 60 fuses look good but I haven’t torn it down far enough to really check that red 40. If it’s the fuse that enables charging of the unit then I will try this.
Have you ever tryed it with a Yeti 100?
I have one with the 120v AC not giving any out put and can't seem to find any help.
Question! Where you ever able to resolve this issue? Thanks! Great video. Very informative.
+Ben (Ben Hoste) no, I just bought an external inverter and attached it to an lvd (low voltage disconnect) and attached them in series via the Anderson connectors on the side. Not as compact, but works just as well.
I totally need an Issac. Where do they sell those?
hey; i hope you can help me. the lcd pannel indicates that the fuses are blown. I wrote to goal zero cs and they said they are irreplacable. now how can i now which one were blown; i mean the grean one or the read. to cgange the read is beyind me. i appreciate your help. thanks
+Marcos Enrique Ruiz Rivero II (AVIEL) if I remember correctly, the fuses on top are only for the Anderson connectors on the sides. You will have to take the top off to see, just like in the video.
Power input stopped working. Do not know if its cable or actual input power. Need help trouble-shooting.
I got the same problem with me Can you advise me to dissolve these are the problem
I have goal zero yeti 400
+راشد العازمي You have two choices: 1.) Replace the entire Yeti 400 under warranty 2.) Buy an external inverter. I went with the second option. Check it out: ua-cam.com/video/Wg1Nz5C0rrE/v-deo.html
tell me, did you make the unit works at the end? i mean the video ends unsuccessfully. Please let me know it. Thanks
+Marcos Enrique Ruiz Rivero II (AVIEL) Unfortunately, I did not. I ended up building a solar generator from parts, instead. Only part I re-used was the battery, and even that is going to be replaced as I've got a 1200wh lifepo4 battery on the shelf waiting to be bottom balanced.
so there is no way to basically fix a blown fuse? over $400 gone ) in my case)
+Marcos Enrique Ruiz Rivero II (AVIEL) you're welcome to try this yourself. you might have better luck than I did. but ultimately, yes, the yeti 400 is a disposable product, not a repairable one. I feel your pain.
Can u take the battery out and use that some how? Charge it and use inverter or something?
Double the fuse capacity
If you had a warranty you wouldn't be taking it apart lol. No warranty nothing to loose. You can send it in for repair but cost of shipping and part might be as much as a new unit unfortunately. So diy is the best option.
Actually I did have a warranty and they offered to fix it under warranty. Guess I’m just the take it apart anyway sort of guy. What makes you think I didn’t have a warranty?
createthis no I was replaying to your comment about "it will void your warranty" your video is to show how to fix it and for other reasons as stated on the comments in video that had you do it urself. My comment was for the viewer if you are a viewer you should contact them first before doing the repair yourself. After warranty then do as you please.
If the inverter fuse blows, odds are you have shorted MOSFETs on the inverter.
They cut it to expose the core to solder to
I don't believe there would be an electrocution risk with this kind of inverter. Any significant capacitance would be on the input side, which is low voltage. The output side is AC, so there would not be any capacitance there.
You cooked it because you didn't suck away the solder
Hmm.. with AGM you can use the upper 80% of the capacity. Not the upper 25%, thats for car flooded lead batteries.
I think it’s more like agm 80% discharge = flooded 50% discharge = same cycle life.
Discharging less will extend cycle life for both types.
That is what happens when you buy a throw away solar generator. Build your own and it will last a very long time if properly maintained.
Maybe you could have had your kid hold the camera and you do the work lol.
+QuantumBraced he's got to learn somehow.
Sounds like you need a new inverter for AC !
personally i would have made an extender so the fuse could be accessible without completely dismantling the whole thing
+Jared Reabow (Jazza) Yup. I mentioned why I didn't do that in the video. Definitely preferable, though. My inverter is most definitely fried now. That last fuse must have been bridged somewhere as it let the magic smoke out.
+createthis so the whole thing no longer works?
if so i would suggest contacting them directly for an entire board replacement or having a look to see where it has gone pop. also don't re assemble the entire thing each time, just plug it in so you can observe the whole thing.
Jared Reabow I wouldn't do that to Goal Zero. It's obvious that I've disassembled the unit, which probably voids the warranty. In addition, it's pretty obvious the unit has been wet a few times (calcium deposits on the boards). I haven't exactly been kind to my Yeti 400 and at this point I can't blame Goal Zero's craftsmanship for my inverter failing due to mistakes between the chair and the keyboard, so to speak. I'll disconnect the inverter and see if I can still use the charge controller (I don't know if the charge controller is housed in the upper board or not). If I can't, I've got another charge controller laying around from another project. I can re-use the battery with that.
+createthis nononon i am not saying ask for a free one, i meant buy a new board
Jared Reabow Ah. Yes. Definitely on my list of things to do. ;)
If you put a Lithium Ion Battery in your Yeti 400, you have a FIRE looking for a place to happen! The Charge Controller in the Yeti is designed for AGM or Lead Acid Batteries only. The Yeti Controller will overcharge to L.I. Battery. Goal Zero's lawyers will have you for LUNCH!
+Bruce Forster did anyone say anything about putting a lithium ion battery into a stock yeti 400? I think you misunderstand what I was saying. I meant "look at how light the Yeti 400 would be if they DESIGNED it to use a lithium ion battery in the FIRST PLACE".
If I did misunderstand, I stand corrected. Had a LOT of downers come my way lately, so I could well have been mistaken.
+Bruce Forster no big deal! Thanks for watching!
I'll be watching my Fire Department Trade Journals for the story of how your Yeti burned down your house, lol!
+Bruce Forster uh. why? are there two of you or something? I'm getting a split personality vibe from you.
WATCH THE VIDEO ALL THE WAY TO THE END... Is this even a fix?
No. It isn’t. Or at least it wasn’t for me.
Dude why didn't you just troubleshot what was blowing the fuse. That what I would have done after it blew the first replacement fuse.
Arc weld with a whole scary 12 volts ?? Lol sure
It happens. Batteries are capable of delivering a lot of amps very quickly. This is why you should always remove any rings on your fingers before working with car batteries.
createthis yeah I know. But 12 volts doesn't hurt us, our bodies are too high impedance. Wall outlet sure, at 120 or 220. Current does kill but not at 12 volts
Jonathan Fisher
For the layman reading this, who may be misinformed by the above comment - the concern here is not electrocution, it's heat. Even if just 12v is shorted by a low resistance object, like a ring, high current will cause that object to rapidly heat. Thus, why 12v could potentially cause and arc weld.
you need to buy a workbench
+Kingalbert lol. I made one years ago. You can see it in some of my other videos. It's magnificent.
Not the most electrically knowlegeable dissertation I've ever heard. 12 volts won't shock most people unless your hands are wet and even that is at most a mild tingle. Unless the inverter is running, there's not enough voltage to kill you. With the battery disconnected, there is no other source of power.
Typical AGM batteries can deliver 700-1000 charge/discharge cycles at 50% depth of discharge (go to the manufacturer for the datasheet on your battery). Like all lead-acid batteries, lower discharge means more cycles but there's a limit to that - batteries discharged 10% on a regular basis last longer (in time) than those never discharged that much (every 10 days to 2 weeks for mine, depending on the next sunny day). Typical AGM battery life is 5-7 years but I changed out the AGM battery bank on my small solar system (12 volts, 420AH, 5040 watt hours) a few months before the batteries reached 9 years of age so I must be doing something right ;-)
wire up a fuse holder..
stuff replacing the same dumb system
Very long winded. I wandered off and came back at 18 minutes to see you'd found the fuse.
createthis my mom is dead.
Meanwhile your video is still long winded. Learn to edit and take constructive criticism without acting like a child.
I'm not sure this is the way for you to get more subscribers.
Wow, you can be brief. Try it on your videos.
It's called editing. Look it up.
@@SirHackaL0t.
wy wybulldog why don’t you tell me
Cheap Chinese inverters.
Sounds like goal zero puts out a garbage product.
eh. I'm not so sure about that. It's okay. It's pretty compact for what it is.