We have quite a few machines in our shop and I own this type of Singer 201, just like your's. For stitching garments and light weight bags this one is my favorite. It is mounted to a K type industrial table with a servo motor and is so easy to maintain, adjust, and repair and so very smooth. The machine outlived it's former owner, and I expect it will outlive me.
Oh, also, I wanted to thank you very much for your getting me interested in leatherworking a few years ago. I have just finished my first bag, and have made lots of other things over the past few years as I have learned. It has become a new passion for me, and I am getting quite good at it. It has also connected me with a wonderful online community - ever more important during these lockdowns we are all experiencing.
My goodness, Complements sir! When you do something you do it well. By that I mean you actually took the time to sew various thicknesses of different kinds of leather and let us see the results. BRAVO!
i read a in depth article about the singer 201, 201k, and they are the most expensive sewing machines made , one comparison was a house cost £500 and the sewing machine cost £63 .they are thought of as the best straight stitch machines ever made , both the stitch quality and the machine quality have never been equalled , at those prices it explains why they are so good, hopefully i will have one in a few days to join my Brothers model 888 that just reminds me of a 1950s/60s car with the chrome and 2 tone solid pastel blue colour, i can do some leather work and make my zoot suit, yippee
Thank you Harry Rogers...cheers from Australia.. we have a lot of old English Singer machines here... best ever machines, simple and easy. Your explanations are easy, very informative, uncomplicated and your voice and diction just lovely and smooth. l use my 201P regularly. TIP... for you l suggest, if you would start to consider writing a book/s... there are none out there, that cover all your tutorials. Another tip, kick start the book from all your comments on all the videos... genuine people with genuine problems to be solved, and no where to go. Really like your presentation.
Fritula 6, I am so happy to hear that you use your 201P regularly. Your 201P was assembled in Australia with part manufactured at the Singer Kilbowie, Clydebank, Scotland plant. I know that your 201P is an outstanding straight stitch sewing machine.
Harry, Thank you for the advise to retain the original solid cast iron balance wheel for your Singer 201K23. Excellent point about the weight and belt drive diameter of the original balance wheel. I appreciate the sound advise of using a leather point needle when sewing leather. It makes perfect sense. The history of these aluminium Mk 2 machines is so interesting. Reminds me of the sacrifice that the British made during WWII.
“Al u mi nee um “? 🙄😬🤔😳 ! Being from Michigan, I was like ....! 😂😅! Now in New England area, had to THINK , Accent is BRITISH , ooohhh, “ALUMINUM “! You are TOO COOL! Your honesty & History lessons are APPRECIATED ! At 71 , STILL LEARNING!
Yes...the older fully cast body machines are incredibly robust. I'm also quite impressed with the old treadle style machines from the early 1900's. Keep in mind these machines not only had to make clothing, but often had to repair items around the family farm, like blankets, jackets, light horse tack, etc.
Sir, I enjoy your videos although all my leather sewing (which is very little) is done by hand with a chisel point needle and waxed cotron thread, and I have used my sewing machines strictly for fabric. However, you have helped me to understand much more about how my machines work. Thank you.
Thanks for this! Love learning more from fellow leather workers. I’ve been very happy with my sailrite LSZ-1. Does 2-3oz well for bags, pouches, etc. otherwise it’s all hand stitched for me!
I found the limit of my 320 when adding a leather cuff to a wax jacket. 4 layers of soft possibly pigskin and 2 of wax cotton stopped the motor, I had to turn it by hand for those few stitches. It handled the rest of the cuff (2 layers wax cotton, 2 leather) admirably though using a standard needle and polyester thread.
My understanding is that V69 equates to 40S. I use 40S bonded Nylon in my 201K and a size 18 needle. Needed bobbin tension tweaking slightly but sews a few layers of PU coated leather without flinching. I do have it mounted on a table with an industrial motor and mechanical clutch which must help. I'd be interested to see how the gears compare to a proper industrial machine
I have got a 191 singer for 35 € and works well with leather. It is a bargain for me. I repared a lot of bags with that sewing machine. The 201 is rare and expensive.
Very much like my 223 (made in Japan 1956). Handles 8 layers of canvas and dacron sailcloth just fine. Same feed, presser foot mechanism, ect. Basic, no walking foot so with layers of every soft fabric like fleece, you have to go slow and help it thorugh. Weighs 37lbs! Non plastic except the knobs. Small motor, but that's the only limit to punch-thru power.
I have a 201k & it will get through up to 3mm or about 3.2 thick leather, anything thicker & it drops stitches. I figured there's too much pressure against the needle thread & thus the bobbin hook won't pick up the loop...'cause there' isn't one. Cornering also has a tendency to drop a stitch here & there. Using thick threads leaves the thread hard up against the needle when it withdraws. I too use leather 100's. As you said, regular size threads work perfect. My machine handles reversing well but not by hand using the balance wheel. It snaps the needle thread as it withdraws 5 times out of 6. Strangely it also offers up smaller stitching when reversing, regardless of what size stitching I've selected. Snaps needles as a result. I simply cannot reverse if sewing more than about 20 stitches per inch as the dog foot barely moves. Maybe my machine is just eccentric like me! Still, a damn fine machine considering mine was made in 1955, also have a 1951 model that mum uses in emergencies (when she breaks her janome) I picked mine up for less than AU$50 a few months back & I've been pumping out double layered leather keytags ever since. Have also sewn cafe blind poly clear stuff, only hazard there is the plastic doesn't like to slide . Masking tape is your friend here! Seat belt material is no issue as with most auto fabrics, even thick, rubber backed car floor mats. These machines are great, they offer adjustable bobbin winder, adjustable foot pressure & adjustable foot height. Just the thing for thicker fabrics. The engineering is also top notch in my opinion, all metal gearing, sprockets & driveshafts, all that means you'll snap & fold plenty of needles long before you break the machine! You taught me how to service mine too, thanks Harry.
I'm also questioning the value of these machines. I paid less than AU$50 for mine & according to the singer production info' I found on the net there was a production run of only 15,000. Not sure if that was just for the Australian market or a total figure produced. The 99K had a production run of 60,000 which in my view makes the 201K's worth substantially more. As it stands the 99 series are still a dime a dozen but not many 201's floating around... at least ones for sale.
Thanks Harry, looking at machines at the moment for wallets and small pouches etc. Current wallet builds are made from veg tan, 2mm out with 1mm internals so around 4.5mm total of Veg Tan. Trying to avoid the Chinese Patch machines so looking at something that will do the job but won't cost a small fortune.
Look at Singer 331k or 31k ...if cheap...£50 UK. Anything other than compound feed is a compromise, but I do understand start simple...like a Singer 331k and go from there.
Harry Rogers awesome thank you, currently falling in love with your Tysew in the ‘how to sew up a leather bag by machine’ video but need to work my way up to something like that. Thanks again Harry, currently watching a your videos, awesome as always😎👊🏼
had my doubts, surely a manually pedal 201 machine should be able too, but it doesn't seem to penetrate it well at a slow speed, might disengage the sewing part of the machine(maybe it's intended to not be forced or maybe it could be tweaked a bit). somewhat worked with high speeds though but it could be more smooth.
Realy educational video mate, I am looking at a few different machines at the moment and was just wondering how the 201k would cope with light canvas as a posed to the leather. Thanks
It does 2mm of upholstery leather so I think it would manage some lighter canvas. You will be limited by thread thickness...it will take Gutterman upholstery thread though.
You certainly covered a lot of territory exposing critical sewing information of leather on a domestic machine, for which I thank you. However, you didn't expirment with presser foot adjustment. I would like to see the reaction difference on layer climbs and thicker leather with a twist or two on the presser foot adjuster.
Harry you mentioned this is the second version of the 201. Do you think the first version would also work about the same for leather? There appear to be a couple for sale near me. It's tempting....
Thanks Harry. I have a Singer 237 Model sewing machine and I was wondering if I would be able to sew a zip into a leather knee boot of my wife that needs a new zipper? I would like to thank you for your videos on leather craft. Thank you very much.
I imagine if you were really flogging one of these on thicker/harder leathers it might be worth swapping out to a spoke wheel and hand crank for finer speed control and eliminating the risk of burning out the motor
Hi, I have the black version, what is the thickest thread and needle size can be used on them? I am trying to saw some thick fabrics to design my own hiking gear, tents, hammocks, backpacks, belts, leather for sheath and so on. I am based in the UK. I bought the machine 25 years ago and the sound on the machine is as new, it sounds ever so quite, love the machine! Also, I have an Brother walking feet and a detachable overlock that I like to use. Love your work and please keep going. Thanks Harry :)
Hey have love your videos, been watching you for a while now. You say there's no cheap leather sewing machine, I would love to see what you can do with one of those chinese leather patcher handcrank sewing machines, not that expensive, you can get one for less then $200 USD, now they are crude but with tinkering I was able to sew up to 2 layers of 10oz veg tanned skirt leather, and sew as thin as 3-4 oz chrome tan boot uppers. Id think that be a great challenge for you and will make a great video. Take care
Hi Harry I recently bought a singer 306k, i am very happy with it apart from the needle thing on these machines, the needles that fit are to expensive, have you found a way to hack the bobbins or whatever, i would be happy to hear your advice. Thanks
I have this very machine as well I love it ,I use a bonded 60 too ,I found I have to use my original foot with a leather point or Denim 16 , I'd like to find a roller for mine . I've got a hideaway table for mine ,What are you using to hold the thread spool ?
@@harryrogers Thank you for your reply, Harry. I'll make sure I check it out! I already watched a bunch of your videos, and I loved them all! And I love your positive and cheerful attitude!
Thought so, not sure where I'm going to find one for my 306 since it takes 206x13. I wonder if anyone has taken a standard 15x1 and milled the end of it shorter?@@harryrogers
Your machine is a beautiful dual tone color and in great condition. You seem to enjoy what you do. I have a machine that looks like that, but it’s a 316G. I just received it, so I haven’t sewn much yet. I believe you said your machine is a Singer 201. Do you know the difference between a 201 (yours) and a Singer 316G, in terms of functions or capabilities? Very nice demonstration. Thank you. I always enjoy your videos...
Hi Harry. I've bought a 201k and she is a beauty but not great at sewing layers. Do you know anything about the singer 660 A2? It's got a clutch motor could it be replaced with a servo? Thanks Marie xx
Hi Harry, I have hust acquired one of these lovlies and I wonder if you could answer a query for me. The foot pressure knob top left of the machine....where does it need to be for lighter and heavier pressure. I don't have a manual and I'd be obliged if you could help. Thanks, Clare.
Hi Clare, screwing it upward reduces the pressure, and down increases the pressure. You want enough pressure to drag the leather through but without marking it.
I'm searching for a machine to sew leather. Can you tell me which on of these will do? Morse e-999 Industrial zig zag Industrial Singer single needle lockstitch 188KI sewing machine
Harry, I have a similar 201. Im sewing two layer cordura nylon, i keep getting knots on the back, my tension is at the max and it is still quite bad. Any tips ?
I was just given a singer Touchtronic 2000 - do you think it would work for leather? I also got a Pfaff 1222E, but it needs some work before it can be used for anything.
Karen Arrowsmith Hi hopefully someone here can answer....I guess you could attach a servo motor somehow but perhaps it's time to go for a stronger machine? Regards Harry
Harry Rogers Thank you for your help, perhaps the motor just needs replacing as it is 60 years young. Upgrading may be too expensive for the bags and purses I make and of course room. At the moment I work with the 201, 99 hand crank, 327 and my juki overlocker for linings. Will have to build an extension. Again thank you.
Thanks Harry, I tried using my new Janome domestic machine to sew quite thick leather and it didn't work, as you would imagine. The feed dogs really scratched the underside of the leather does that ever happen with the Singer 201? I'm trying to make leather tabs for zip ends for fabric bags.
Lotte Akehurst hi not very much...you could try putting masking tape on the leather to protect it...on the 201 you can reduce the foot pressure and I believe lower the feed dogs. I suspect zip ends will be tricky...is it worth just hand sewing them?
Hi Harry am looking to have ago at some leather crafting and have found both a Singer 201 machine and also a Singer 185 k both quite close to me and for similar price, just wondered if you would offer your thoughts on which would be the better machine to go with? Thanks for any help and I’ve a lot of videos to catch up on!!
Thanks Harry interesting info still not sure which machine would suit my leather working aspirations obviously your 201 review gives it some credibility just wondering if the newer machine would have improvements that would be useful? Anyway thanks again Harry
Great Video. I have a Singer 215 G. Looks very similar to the 201 but has the bobbin spool in a vertical carriage underneath the foot as opposed to horizontal next to the foot. Is this machine of similar strength and quality to the 201 and can I use it for light leather as shown in this video. Cheers. Guy.
Hi Guy....sorry but I am not familiar with that one so best to try it...it looks solid...it was badged Singer but was made by another factory until it was taken over ...and then retooled to make the usual Singer range.
Great video as always. Do you know if there is any way of reducing the speed? I just picked one of these up for next to nothing and whilst it works beautifully, the speed is hard to control with old small button foot pedal. Thanks
Harry are you familiar with the Singer 31-15 machine? One came up locally for sale near my home and not sure if it walking foot or just straight stitch? Any thought? Thanks once again my friend!
Jeff I have posted a film with that machine...it's about restoring machines on the leather playlist. It's like a beefed up Singer 201...not walking foot but a good basic workhorse for lighter leathers at a low price.
@@harryrogers I just found it if it's the 31k you speak of. It was used for upholstery but saw another youtuber mention a walking foot attachment but suppose it's not the same as a true walking foot needle feeder
Is the 201 a better selection Harry? With the drop in bobbin, etc.. I believe the 201-2 has a built in motor no belts, etc Thanks again. I'm not in a real big rush so want to make a good choice.
@@jeffdeluca1153 Jeff both machines would get you started but they are not capable of complex sewing. I started out making tool rolls on the 31k and for flat work with upholstery leather it was fine. I would go for the 31k if in reasonable condition...I did fit a wheel foot to mine and I guess you might be able to get a pseudo walking foot attachment but I am very unsure...have no direct knowledge of that. 201 in the US usually has inbuilt motor, not in UK.
The American version of the 201k has a potted motor with a direct drive (as opposed to the European belt drive). I wonder if these handle leather better.
Hi Harry, my father brought this exact same machine today and asked me to get it sewing. I found your video on cleaning and oiling, which I’ve done. I’ve threaded it correctly but the thread keeps bunching up under the sewing plate(bobbin issue I assume). I saw your tension on left by the needle was 6-5. The lever on the right looks to be at 7 on your machine but mine only slides down to 10. Shame I can’t upload a picture on here. I don’t have any leather to practise on so used a 3 thickness cotton. Still the needle it game with which is quite heavy and a strong thread. Is it ok to practise on cottons to just get it stitching. The belt seems fine but maybe a tad looser than it should be. No obvious wear. Any advice you van give me would be hugely appreciated. Your video’s are great, step by step and detailed. I really didn’t expect to be able to find help on this machine, due to its age.
Hi its difficult to say without seeing it...I have posted 2 other films on this machine. A new needle with the correct thread is a good place to start, and sewing cotton to start is a good idea. Is the top tension high enough? Rgds Harry
Harry Rogers which is the top tension Harry. Is that the one you changed the spring on in another video. I’ve got that between 6-7. What should the right hand lever be on it won’t go to 7 which yours appears to be on. The lowest it goes is 10.
Harry Rogers oh the thread is what came with the machine. It’s a Dewhurst Sylco 40 thread. Made in Britain fives and indication that it might have been the thread for back in day. ?
Harry Rogers I’m used to modern machines Harry, one video I saw showed the needle was threaded from right to left, not front to back. In other words in a modern machine, the flat side of the needle is inserted with the flat side at the back. In the video, it looks as if the flat side is inserted on the left. I have this exact machine in your video, so what is correct please. Also from previous messages, would you suggest the tension to tweak is the one above the needle or the bobbin screw. And any ideas where I might get a manual for this machine. Many thanks
Very interesting. I have been watching quite a few videos on machine's that will sew leather. I'm looking at restoring leather flying jackets mainly fitting zips but I've yet seen anyone sewing leather and fleece. Would this machine handle this sort of work? Thanks
Hi I think that would be pushing it. Leather and fleece is a bit tricky....take a look at my recent Singer 331k film, but I really think you need a compound feed machine like in my Stitching up a leather mail bag film. Rgds Harry
Paul, Harry is describing his Singer 201K23. The Kilbowie, Scotland machines are made with outstanding quality. The aluminium Mark 2 machines were a re-design of the cast iron Singer 201K Mark 1 machines. As he pointed out in the video, there was a surplus of aluminium in the UK after WWII and casting techniques for aluminium had been perfected during WWII. His Singer 201K23 is belt driven from a detached electric motor mounted behind the machine on a bracket. The Singer 201-2 was manufactured at the Singer plant in Elizabethport, New Jersey, USA. As you pointed out the 201-2 is a direct, gear driven machine driven by a "potted" electric motor mounted on the upper, right hand side of the machine.
Hi Harry, been watching your Chanel for a while. I am retiring soon and love leatherwork. I looked for the singer, but it is not available. I have run cross, by some research, a REX RX607 any thoughts?
@@harryrogers Hi Harry, it has been 3 weeks now and I was not able to locate a Sailrite in my budget. I got the REX non zig-zag because it has a cast frame. I got the servo motor set and a 120 mm pulley to convert to a fly wheel. I had to drill out the center to 22 mm, which was my greatest challenge. After all the modifications including building a roll around cabinet it is working good. I just completed my first small pouch project. Thanks for sharing your leather work techniques with us on UA-cam.
Hello there Mr Harry- I wonder if you have any idea of singer model190.i just cannot find any instruction-problem is the needle does not pick up bobbin tread
My 201 came with the thread pin on top broken off just below the top of the machine. I haven't been able to pound it out or drill it out. Will a separate cone thread holder work just as well?
Is there such a thing as an affordable cylinder arm machine? I'm just starting out in leather, having lost my job, and I just can't afford the 1000-2000 that most industrial cylinder arms seem to cost.
Hi I am sorry about your job. You might be lucky and find a Singer 29k patcher off Ebay as prices have gone mad on Ebay for these. You could also look at some UA-cam vids on the chinese patchers...some people are very happy with these and some less so....they only cost circa £100 - £125.
Hi! I found this on eBay and thought you might like it! Check it out now! Hand Cobbler Leather Shoe Repair Sewing Machine Cotton Nylon Line for Shoemaker ebay.us/Zz0lLH
Hi Harry I cant find anything about a 201P treadle machine the same colour as the one your talking about. Can you help ??? do you know anything about them or anyone who does
I tried using my (1953) 201 hand crank for some light leather upholstery samples with leather needle, ordinary cotton, and 2 layers, but found the stitch length was too short, and uneven, set on full length? I have bought the roller wheel though haven't fitted it yet. Any ideas why mine has an uneven stitch on leather?
Jessica Hothersall hi Jessica I take it the feed dogs are rising sufficiently....on this machine you can release the feed dogs for free style embroidery by adjusting a thumbscrew underneath the machine...it sounds like that might be the problem..but only a guess.
Jessica, I agree with both Harry's and Lookup's reply. Since you have a 1953 model, then your Singer is an aluminium 201K24. 201 stands for the model, K stands for Kilbowie, Clydebank, Scotland plant, 2 stands for Mark 2 and 4 stands for hand crank. I have a Singer earlier black cast iron 15K Hand crank and beige Singer 201K24. Both machines have been thoroughly cleaned, lubricated and adjusted. Both will sew 2 layers of lightweight leather all day long with full range of stitch length. A lot of problems could be interfering with the stitch length. Hopefully it is something simple like build up of lint under the needle plate that is interfering with the feed dogs rising to their full height. If lint builds up under the needle plate there is usually a "clunking" sound as the feed dogs bind against the bottom of the needle plate. Enough lint in that location can create something that looks like felt and can ultimately bind up the machine. Along with the clunking sound the machine will be slower and create uneven stitches. Harry's idea is the easiest to fix - the feed dogs might be dropped for free motion darning. If the stitch length lever will not swing up and down fully, then something is binding its full range. A complicated problem is someone has messed with the eccentric hinge screws on the feed rock shaft or the feed lifting rock shaft. If either of these eccentric screws are out of adjustment, then the feed dogs will not operate correctly. If you are mechanically inclined, then get a 201 Service Manual, study it carefully to confirm that is the problem. If the feed dogs do not rise to their proper height or extend to their proper length, then adjust the eccentric hinge screws.
Jessica, I reviewed Harry's UA-cam video, "Reviving a Sewing Machine Singer 201K". ua-cam.com/video/5r9y_h4VJ38/v-deo.html Harry showed an example of cleaning his SInger 201K23 in the critical feed dogs and bobbin case area. On his video you can hear the clunky sound at the beginning of the video before he cleans the area around the feed dogs, bobbin case, and bobbin case holder. The 11:12 - 22:20 section of that video is where he cleans and lubricates these areas. After his work, the clunky sound is gone. Thank you Harry for demonstrating Jessica's potential problem!
Hi I am sorry I am not familiar with it...it appears to be similar to a Singer 201...perhaps best to try it or Google some more. I suspect it would be fine for light duty...of course you cannot beat an industrial machine with compound feed with needle feed etc. but this 301 might be a fair place to start if a low price and light duty leather. Regards Harry
what machine can I use to do leather belts, thick leather belts? I am looking for something to start. HAve a singer 4411 and it will not do what I need. Thanks
You will need a heavy duty harness machine...have a chat with Tysew Industrial Sewing in UK...if in US take a look at Cobra Class 4 etc and have a chat with a dealer to get proper advice.
We have quite a few machines in our shop and I own this type of Singer 201, just like your's. For stitching garments and light weight bags this one is my favorite. It is mounted to a K type industrial table with a servo motor and is so easy to maintain, adjust, and repair and so very smooth. The machine outlived it's former owner, and I expect it will outlive me.
Oh, also, I wanted to thank you very much for your getting me interested in leatherworking a few years ago. I have just finished my first bag, and have made lots of other things over the past few years as I have learned. It has become a new passion for me, and I am getting quite good at it. It has also connected me with a wonderful online community - ever more important during these lockdowns we are all experiencing.
My goodness, Complements sir! When you do something you do it well. By that I mean you actually took the time to sew various thicknesses of different kinds of leather and let us see the results. BRAVO!
i read a in depth article about the singer 201, 201k, and they are the most expensive sewing machines made , one comparison was a house cost £500 and the sewing machine cost £63 .they are thought of as the best straight stitch machines ever made , both the stitch quality and the machine quality have never been equalled , at those prices it explains why they are so good,
hopefully i will have one in a few days to join my Brothers model 888 that just reminds me of a 1950s/60s car with the chrome and 2 tone solid pastel blue colour, i can do some leather work and make my zoot suit, yippee
I recently purchased a 201 (sight unseen) and it is being restored for me. Your video has helped me know what to expect. Thank you.
Harry I appreciate your videos. You're humility, humor and great information are all so so refreshing. Thanks for your work.
Mark Lackley Thanks Mark
Thank you Harry Rogers...cheers from Australia.. we have a lot of old English Singer machines here... best ever machines, simple and easy. Your explanations are easy, very informative, uncomplicated and your voice and diction just lovely and smooth. l use my 201P regularly.
TIP... for you l suggest, if you would start to consider writing a book/s... there are none out there, that cover all your tutorials.
Another tip, kick start the book from all your comments on all the videos... genuine people with genuine problems to be solved, and no where to go. Really like your presentation.
Fritula 6,
I am so happy to hear that you use your 201P regularly.
Your 201P was assembled in Australia with part manufactured at the Singer Kilbowie, Clydebank, Scotland plant.
I know that your 201P is an outstanding straight stitch sewing machine.
Harry,
Thank you for the advise to retain the original solid cast iron balance wheel for your Singer 201K23. Excellent point about the weight and belt drive diameter of the original balance wheel.
I appreciate the sound advise of using a leather point needle when sewing leather. It makes perfect sense.
The history of these aluminium Mk 2 machines is so interesting. Reminds me of the sacrifice that the British made during WWII.
ibsoarin Thank you I appreciate your comments. All the best Harry
“Al u mi nee um “? 🙄😬🤔😳 ! Being from Michigan, I was like ....! 😂😅!
Now in New England area, had to THINK , Accent is BRITISH , ooohhh, “ALUMINUM “!
You are TOO COOL! Your honesty & History lessons are APPRECIATED !
At 71 , STILL LEARNING!
Yes...the older fully cast body machines are incredibly robust. I'm also quite impressed with the old treadle style machines from the early 1900's. Keep in mind these machines not only had to make clothing, but often had to repair items around the family farm, like blankets, jackets, light horse tack, etc.
The 201 was offered as a treadle, I Bought my wife a mark 1 201 treadle machine.
Sir, I enjoy your videos although all my leather sewing (which is very little) is done by hand with a chisel point needle and waxed cotron thread, and I have used my sewing machines strictly for fabric. However, you have helped me to understand much more about how my machines work. Thank you.
Thanks for this! Love learning more from fellow leather workers. I’ve been very happy with my sailrite LSZ-1. Does 2-3oz well for bags, pouches, etc. otherwise it’s all hand stitched for me!
I found the limit of my 320 when adding a leather cuff to a wax jacket. 4 layers of soft possibly pigskin and 2 of wax cotton stopped the motor, I had to turn it by hand for those few stitches. It handled the rest of the cuff (2 layers wax cotton, 2 leather) admirably though using a standard needle and polyester thread.
Thank you Harry Rogers. Your videos are always impressed and educative. Blessings
Thanks Harry. Appreciate your videos. I've learned a lot from them.
I have a 201-2 I’m getting worked on . My wife Inherited from Grandmother I’m going to use for small leather goods . Thanks Harry from Texas .
That's great.
Thanks, Harry. Always glad to see a new video from you. I think I'm going to try light weight leather for wallet interiors.
My understanding is that V69 equates to 40S. I use 40S bonded Nylon in my 201K and a size 18 needle. Needed bobbin tension tweaking slightly but sews a few layers of PU coated leather without flinching. I do have it mounted on a table with an industrial motor and mechanical clutch which must help. I'd be interested to see how the gears compare to a proper industrial machine
yes this a great machine for thin leather and other heavier material like tent canvas and tarps, webbing etc.
Thanks very much for this video and demonstration. Seems like I could sew patches on my riding leathers with this. I'll look for one.
I have got a 191 singer for 35 € and works well with leather. It is a bargain for me. I repared a lot of bags with that sewing machine. The 201 is rare and expensive.
Very much like my 223 (made in Japan 1956). Handles 8 layers of canvas and dacron sailcloth just fine. Same feed, presser foot mechanism, ect. Basic, no walking foot so with layers of every soft fabric like fleece, you have to go slow and help it thorugh. Weighs 37lbs! Non plastic except the knobs. Small motor, but that's the only limit to punch-thru power.
Hi Harry! Thanks for posting this! I took lots of notes so that I can refer to them later! Bob in Virginia, USA
vajake1 Thanks Bob that's great.
That smaller pully would actually change the ratio for the better to save the motor, at the sacrifice of speed. Great videos!
I have a 201k & it will get through up to 3mm or about 3.2 thick leather, anything thicker & it drops stitches.
I figured there's too much pressure against the needle thread & thus the bobbin hook won't pick up the loop...'cause there' isn't one.
Cornering also has a tendency to drop a stitch here & there.
Using thick threads leaves the thread hard up against the needle when it withdraws. I too use leather 100's.
As you said, regular size threads work perfect.
My machine handles reversing well but not by hand using the balance wheel. It snaps the needle thread as it withdraws 5 times out of 6.
Strangely it also offers up smaller stitching when reversing, regardless of what size stitching I've selected.
Snaps needles as a result.
I simply cannot reverse if sewing more than about 20 stitches per inch as the dog foot barely moves.
Maybe my machine is just eccentric like me!
Still, a damn fine machine considering mine was made in 1955, also have a 1951 model that mum uses in emergencies (when she breaks her janome)
I picked mine up for less than AU$50 a few months back & I've been pumping out double layered leather keytags ever since.
Have also sewn cafe blind poly clear stuff, only hazard there is the plastic doesn't like to slide . Masking tape is your friend here!
Seat belt material is no issue as with most auto fabrics, even thick, rubber backed car floor mats.
These machines are great, they offer adjustable bobbin winder, adjustable foot pressure & adjustable foot height. Just the thing for thicker fabrics.
The engineering is also top notch in my opinion, all metal gearing, sprockets & driveshafts, all that means you'll snap & fold plenty of needles long before you break the machine!
You taught me how to service mine too, thanks Harry.
I'm also questioning the value of these machines.
I paid less than AU$50 for mine & according to the singer production info' I found on the net there was a production run of only 15,000. Not sure if that was just for the Australian market or a total figure produced.
The 99K had a production run of 60,000 which in my view makes the 201K's worth substantially more.
As it stands the 99 series are still a dime a dozen but not many 201's floating around... at least ones for sale.
Thanks Harry, looking at machines at the moment for wallets and small pouches etc. Current wallet builds are made from veg tan, 2mm out with 1mm internals so around 4.5mm total of Veg Tan. Trying to avoid the Chinese Patch machines so looking at something that will do the job but won't cost a small fortune.
Look at Singer 331k or 31k ...if cheap...£50 UK. Anything other than compound feed is a compromise, but I do understand start simple...like a Singer 331k and go from there.
Harry Rogers awesome thank you, currently falling in love with your Tysew in the ‘how to sew up a leather bag by machine’ video but need to work my way up to something like that. Thanks again Harry, currently watching a your videos, awesome as always😎👊🏼
very well made , its helped me understand my machine thanks for making and showing
clive kibbler Thanks Clive
Excellent video! Thanks Harry!
excellent clear video and very helpful info .Thanks for posting
I love your videos Harry! Thank you!!!
Love the wooden case!
had my doubts, surely a manually pedal 201 machine should be able too, but it doesn't seem to penetrate it well at a slow speed, might disengage the sewing part of the machine(maybe it's intended to not be forced or maybe it could be tweaked a bit). somewhat worked with high speeds though but it could be more smooth.
Realy educational video mate, I am looking at a few different machines at the moment and was just wondering how the 201k would cope with light canvas as a posed to the leather.
Thanks
It does 2mm of upholstery leather so I think it would manage some lighter canvas. You will be limited by thread thickness...it will take Gutterman upholstery thread though.
@@harryrogers Fantastic, thank you so much
A very helpful video! Love your explanation
Out of interest what thread tension have you got it set at as I notice you don't change it for different leather thickness ??.
The singer 201 was used to sew dash and door trims for rolls royce
Great job as usual Harry. Nice one mate :)
Thanks dear
I have the same machine, but after 2 or 3 stech broking the thread.
Can you help me about the problems.
You certainly covered a lot of territory exposing critical sewing information of leather on a domestic machine, for which I thank you. However, you didn't expirment with presser foot adjustment. I would like to see the reaction difference on layer climbs and thicker leather with a twist or two on the presser foot adjuster.
Harry you mentioned this is the second version of the 201. Do you think the first version would also work about the same for leather? There appear to be a couple for sale near me. It's tempting....
Yes...I have both and the Mk1 black model is just as good...some say better.
Cheers, thank you so much for your inspiration.
Thanks Harry. I have a Singer 237 Model sewing machine and I was wondering if I would be able to sew a zip into a leather knee boot of my wife that needs a new zipper?
I would like to thank you for your videos on leather craft.
Thank you very much.
Hi I am not sure..
Hopefully yes.
I imagine if you were really flogging one of these on thicker/harder leathers it might be worth swapping out to a spoke wheel and hand crank for finer speed control and eliminating the risk of burning out the motor
Yes certainly a good point...and in reality as a strong domestic it's ok for light leather but not the thick stuff. Best wishes Harry
You da man Harry! Thank you AGAIN!
Hi Harry hope you get this question - can I sew canvas or vynil
You really need an industrial machine for that....but yes it probably would sew thin canvas etc, but the thread you use will also be thin.
Hi, I have the black version, what is the thickest thread and needle size can be used on them?
I am trying to saw some thick fabrics to design my own hiking gear, tents, hammocks, backpacks, belts, leather for sheath and so on.
I am based in the UK. I bought the machine 25 years ago and the sound on the machine is as new, it sounds ever so quite, love the machine!
Also, I have an Brother walking feet and a detachable overlock that I like to use.
Love your work and please keep going. Thanks Harry :)
Hello Harry...I have only ever put upholstery thread through mine.
Hey have love your videos, been watching you for a while now. You say there's no cheap leather sewing machine, I would love to see what you can do with one of those chinese leather patcher handcrank sewing machines, not that expensive, you can get one for less then $200 USD, now they are crude but with tinkering I was able to sew up to 2 layers of 10oz veg tanned skirt leather, and sew as thin as 3-4 oz chrome tan boot uppers. Id think that be a great challenge for you and will make a great video. Take care
That's great and will be very helpful to others reading your comment..thanks
@@harryrogers Your welcome.
Hi Harry
I recently bought a singer 306k, i am very happy with it apart from the needle thing on these machines, the needles that fit are to expensive, have you found a way to hack the bobbins or whatever, i would be happy to hear your advice. Thanks
Hi Eric...sorry but I have not used that machine, it looks very nice and I see it takes diffetent 206 13 needles.
Is the singer 99k good for leather
I have this very machine as well I love it ,I use a bonded 60 too ,I found I have to use my original foot with a leather point or Denim 16 , I'd like to find a roller for mine . I've got a hideaway table for mine ,What are you using to hold the thread spool ?
Garnett M Hello I am using the base of an industrial bobbin holder. Thanks for your comment.
what is the difference between this machine and the Singer 15-125? I'm more interested in sewing Canvas rather than leather.
As someone on a budget who is buying his first machine, I'm wondering if I should get a Singer, Pfaff, or Juki. I can't afford an Adler.
Those are all good makes. I suggest you look at my other machine vids, to consider needle feed and walking foot etc.
@@harryrogers Thank you for your reply, Harry. I'll make sure I check it out! I already watched a bunch of your videos, and I loved them all! And I love your positive and cheerful attitude!
Hi Harry, really enjoyed your video, are you using a standard 1x15 needle wedge for leather? Or is that just a standard needle?
Yes a leather needle!
Thought so, not sure where I'm going to find one for my 306 since it takes 206x13. I wonder if anyone has taken a standard 15x1 and milled the end of it shorter?@@harryrogers
@@sarblade I don't really see why not.
So this machine could do leather jobs for wallets and phone cases?
Your machine is a beautiful dual tone color and in great condition. You seem to enjoy what you do. I have a machine that looks like that, but it’s a 316G. I just received it, so I haven’t sewn much yet. I believe you said your machine is a Singer 201. Do you know the difference between a 201 (yours) and a Singer 316G, in terms of functions or capabilities? Very nice demonstration. Thank you. I always enjoy your videos...
Dr Michael Elinski A machine with cams...nice!
Hello harry would a walking foot attachment be helpful for multiple layers ie 3mm scrim on vynil or 6mm foam on vynil regards mike
Hi Harry. I've bought a 201k and she is a beauty but not great at sewing layers. Do you know anything about the singer 660 A2? It's got a clutch motor could it be replaced with a servo? Thanks
Marie xx
Sorry Marie I do not know about the 660. Generally with industrial machines the clutch motors can be replaced with servo motors.
Hi Harry, I have hust acquired one of these lovlies and I wonder if you could answer a query for me. The foot pressure knob top left of the machine....where does it need to be for lighter and heavier pressure. I don't have a manual and I'd be obliged if you could help. Thanks, Clare.
Hi Clare, screwing it upward reduces the pressure, and down increases the pressure. You want enough pressure to drag the leather through but without marking it.
@@harryrogers thanks so much. Trying to work my way through your videos, they are so informative and thanks for replying as quick as you did!
I'm searching for a machine to sew leather. Can you tell me which on of these will do?
Morse e-999 Industrial zig zag
Industrial Singer single needle lockstitch 188KI sewing machine
Hi Harry do you think the 201k will sew through cork fabric for bag/purse making? Thanks for the video 👍
It might manage it but you will be limited by thread thickness...not ideal. Perhaps find a friend with one first?
Harry, I have a similar 201. Im sewing two layer cordura nylon, i keep getting knots on the back, my tension is at the max and it is still quite bad. Any tips ?
Perhaps a thicker needle, check your threading route, check bobbin thread unravels easily???
I was just given a singer Touchtronic 2000 - do you think it would work for leather? I also got a Pfaff 1222E, but it needs some work before it can be used for anything.
Thanks...I guess try the Touchtronic...sorry but I don't know...it will probably work with some thin upholstery leather.
Hi, I use this machine daily on leather and it's great but can the motor be upgraded? Mine is 90w and I get a bit of clutch slipping. Great tutorials.
Karen Arrowsmith Hi hopefully someone here can answer....I guess you could attach a servo motor somehow but perhaps it's time to go for a stronger machine? Regards Harry
Harry Rogers Thank you for your help, perhaps the motor just needs replacing as it is 60 years young. Upgrading may be too expensive for the bags and purses I make and of course room. At the moment I work with the 201, 99 hand crank, 327 and my juki overlocker for linings. Will have to build an extension. Again thank you.
Karen Arrowsmith Karen I see there are some 180watt motors on EBay.. .just search for sewing machine motor...might be of interest.
I have the fortune to have an old pfaff 332, does well on light leather
Thats great! What kind of price point is reasonable for these? Thanks!
Katie check out Ebay...up to £60???
Hey Harry from a fellow Harry...
what is that thicknesser guage thing you're using ?? looks handy!
Hi Harry, its off Ebay...from China, and is very good....only a few pounds.
Thanks Harry, I tried using my new Janome domestic machine to sew quite thick leather and it didn't work, as you would imagine. The feed dogs really scratched the underside of the leather does that ever happen with the Singer 201? I'm trying to make leather tabs for zip ends for fabric bags.
Lotte Akehurst hi not very much...you could try putting masking tape on the leather to protect it...on the 201 you can reduce the foot pressure and I believe lower the feed dogs. I suspect zip ends will be tricky...is it worth just hand sewing them?
Hi Harry am looking to have ago at some leather crafting and have found both a Singer 201 machine and also a Singer 185 k both quite close to me and for similar price, just wondered if you would offer your thoughts on which would be the better machine to go with?
Thanks for any help and I’ve a lot of videos to catch up on!!
www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/185/
Not certain..this may help.
Thanks Harry interesting info still not sure which machine would suit my leather working aspirations obviously your 201 review gives it some credibility just wondering if the newer machine would have improvements that would be useful?
Anyway thanks again Harry
Hi, I'm working on a heavy singer sewing machine with a flat platform, can I install some kind of walking foot on it?
Great Video. I have a Singer 215 G. Looks very similar to the 201 but has the bobbin spool in a vertical carriage underneath the foot as opposed to horizontal next to the foot. Is this machine of similar strength and quality to the 201 and can I use it for light leather as shown in this video. Cheers. Guy.
Hi Guy....sorry but I am not familiar with that one so best to try it...it looks solid...it was badged Singer but was made by another factory until it was taken over ...and then retooled to make the usual Singer range.
Ok, thanks Harry, I'll give it a go with various thicknesses. First need to get some leather needles for it though.
Cheers
Guy
Great video as always. Do you know if there is any way of reducing the speed? I just picked one of these up for next to nothing and whilst it works beautifully, the speed is hard to control with old small button foot pedal. Thanks
Just seen your video about sailing out the motor and pedal, so that answers my question. Do you find the new motor is noticably better for leather?
Which can sew heavy leather upholstery? Thank you!
Harry are you familiar with the Singer 31-15 machine? One came up locally for sale near my home and not sure if it walking foot or just straight stitch? Any thought? Thanks once again my friend!
Jeff I have posted a film with that machine...it's about restoring machines on the leather playlist. It's like a beefed up Singer 201...not walking foot but a good basic workhorse for lighter leathers at a low price.
@@harryrogers I just found it if it's the 31k you speak of. It was used for upholstery but saw another youtuber mention a walking foot attachment but suppose it's not the same as a true walking foot needle feeder
Is the 201 a better selection Harry? With the drop in bobbin, etc.. I believe the 201-2 has a built in motor no belts, etc Thanks again. I'm not in a real big rush so want to make a good choice.
@@jeffdeluca1153 Jeff both machines would get you started but they are not capable of complex sewing. I started out making tool rolls on the 31k and for flat work with upholstery leather it was fine. I would go for the 31k if in reasonable condition...I did fit a wheel foot to mine and I guess you might be able to get a pseudo walking foot attachment but I am very unsure...have no direct knowledge of that. 201 in the US usually has inbuilt motor, not in UK.
@@harryrogers Thanks once again Harry for your responses and help
Great video! Thanks for the info. What is the tool that you measured the thickness of the leather called? Cheers!
Kristoffer Olsson clock or thickness gauge...will be on EBay.
Thank you!
Thank you for sharing this instructive video. Do you think this 201 is similar to 66 for light leather work?
Yes...I have both..no reverse on 66 but gets similar results.
The American version of the 201k has a potted motor with a direct drive (as opposed to the European belt drive). I wonder if these handle leather better.
PhiNics Interesting...and yes I suspect they might...thanks.
hello harry, I recently purchased a 1940's 201k after watching your videos it has inspired me! where do you buy your spare parts and oil?
Louis O'Shea EBay for parts!
Hi Harry, my father brought this exact same machine today and asked me to get it sewing. I found your video on cleaning and oiling, which I’ve done. I’ve threaded it correctly but the thread keeps bunching up under the sewing plate(bobbin issue I assume). I saw your tension on left by the needle was 6-5. The lever on the right looks to be at 7 on your machine but mine only slides down to 10. Shame I can’t upload a picture on here.
I don’t have any leather to practise on so used a 3 thickness cotton. Still the needle it game with which is quite heavy and a strong thread. Is it ok to practise on cottons to just get it stitching. The belt seems fine but maybe a tad looser than it should be. No obvious wear. Any advice you van give me would be hugely appreciated. Your video’s are great, step by step and detailed. I really didn’t expect to be able to find help on this machine, due to its age.
Hi its difficult to say without seeing it...I have posted 2 other films on this machine. A new needle with the correct thread is a good place to start, and sewing cotton to start is a good idea. Is the top tension high enough? Rgds Harry
Harry Rogers which is the top tension Harry. Is that the one you changed the spring on in another video. I’ve got that between 6-7. What should the right hand lever be on it won’t go to 7 which yours appears to be on. The lowest it goes is 10.
Harry Rogers oh the thread is what came with the machine. It’s a Dewhurst Sylco 40 thread. Made in Britain fives and indication that it might have been the thread for back in day. ?
@@rogenastyles9625 Yes but don't go by the numbers it may be tensioned too loose or too tight.
Harry Rogers I’m used to modern machines Harry, one video I saw showed the needle was threaded from right to left, not front to back. In other words in a modern machine, the flat side of the needle is inserted with the flat side at the back. In the video, it looks as if the flat side is inserted on the left. I have this exact machine in your video, so what is correct please. Also from previous messages, would you suggest the tension to tweak is the one above the needle or the bobbin screw. And any ideas where I might get a manual for this machine. Many thanks
Very interesting.
I have been watching quite a few videos on machine's that will sew leather.
I'm looking at restoring leather flying jackets mainly fitting zips but I've yet seen anyone sewing leather and fleece.
Would this machine handle this sort of work?
Thanks
Hi I think that would be pushing it. Leather and fleece is a bit tricky....take a look at my recent Singer 331k film, but I really think you need a compound feed machine like in my Stitching up a leather mail bag film. Rgds Harry
Good info Harry......thanx.
Nicely done Harry. I'm a new subscriber and wondering about your thickness gauge/micrometer, seems very handy.
Thanks...yes from EBay.
Hello I am a good tailor from Iraq looking for a job as a tailor out of my assistant does my living conditions not allow me to even pay college fees!
Do you really need college or just a good ol' Singer sewing machine?
Hi Harry, did you say that your 201-2 in the U.K. is belt driven? The U.S. versions are direct drive and therefore a little more powerful.
Paul Smith yes ...and suspect I suspect the US drive is better!
Paul,
Harry is describing his Singer 201K23. The Kilbowie, Scotland machines are made with outstanding quality. The aluminium Mark 2 machines were a re-design of the cast iron Singer 201K Mark 1 machines. As he pointed out in the video, there was a surplus of aluminium in the UK after WWII and casting techniques for aluminium had been perfected during WWII.
His Singer 201K23 is belt driven from a detached electric motor mounted behind the machine on a bracket.
The Singer 201-2 was manufactured at the Singer plant in Elizabethport, New Jersey, USA. As you pointed out the 201-2 is a direct, gear driven machine driven by a "potted" electric motor mounted on the upper, right hand side of the machine.
Ah, thank you for the clarification. That's absolutely fascinating.
harry i have a singer 99. does your 201 have a bigger motor or are they the same? thanks
Hi in the UK they seem to be the same.
Hi Harry, been watching your Chanel for a while. I am retiring soon and love leatherwork. I looked for the singer, but it is not available. I have run cross, by some research, a REX RX607 any thoughts?
Tom I am not familiar with it, but notice on Amazon people are saying the Sailrite is much better.
@@harryrogers Hi Harry, it has been 3 weeks now and I was not able to locate a Sailrite in my budget. I got the REX non zig-zag because it has a cast frame. I got the servo motor set and a 120 mm pulley to convert to a fly wheel. I had to drill out the center to 22 mm, which was my greatest challenge. After all the modifications including building a roll around cabinet it is working good. I just completed my first small pouch project. Thanks for sharing your leather work techniques with us on UA-cam.
@@tomhurst2661 That's great Tom.
Hello there Mr Harry- I wonder if you have any idea of singer model190.i just cannot find any instruction-problem is the needle does not pick up bobbin tread
manual might be here ismacs.net/free-sewing-machine-manuals-list.html#S
to add to last message...blunt or bent needle, worn tip on hook?
My 201 came with the thread pin on top broken off just below the top of the machine. I haven't been able to pound it out or drill it out. Will a separate cone thread holder work just as well?
Yes
@@harryrogers Thank you! I learn so much from your videos!
Hi, many are waiting your video on choosing a leather machine which you mentioned on minute 1:30
Paolo Mh Hi Paolo..I was referring to a film I have already uploaded....its in my leatherworking playlist. Regards Harry
Thank you Harry.
Is there such a thing as an affordable cylinder arm machine? I'm just starting out in leather, having lost my job, and I just can't afford the 1000-2000 that most industrial cylinder arms seem to cost.
Hi I am sorry about your job. You might be lucky and find a Singer 29k patcher off Ebay as prices have gone mad on Ebay for these. You could also look at some UA-cam vids on the chinese patchers...some people are very happy with these and some less so....they only cost circa £100 - £125.
Hi! I found this on eBay and thought you might like it! Check it out now! Hand Cobbler Leather Shoe Repair Sewing Machine Cotton Nylon Line for Shoemaker ebay.us/Zz0lLH
@@harryrogers Thanks Harry, I really appreciate the advice. :)
Nice video, what would you suggest for a hobby or part time upholstery work on the automobile side. Sailrite not included
Donnie Zee Donnie tricky as we have different makes here in the UK...its worth trying some out at a dealer with a sample to see what you get on with.
Hi Harry I cant find anything about a 201P treadle machine the same colour as the one your talking about. Can you help ??? do you know anything about them or anyone who does
P is for Penrith Australia...the parts were made in Scotland and assembled in Penrith Australia. Rgds Harry
Great video. Thanks !!!
How does it compare to the cast iron 201 in slightly thicker material.?
Very similar Ryan...it still has the weight of a cast iron flywheel.
I tried using my (1953) 201 hand crank for some light leather upholstery samples with leather needle, ordinary cotton, and 2 layers, but found the stitch length was too short, and uneven, set on full length? I have bought the roller wheel though haven't fitted it yet. Any ideas why mine has an uneven stitch on leather?
Jessica Hothersall hi Jessica I take it the feed dogs are rising sufficiently....on this machine you can release the feed dogs for free style embroidery by adjusting a thumbscrew underneath the machine...it sounds like that might be the problem..but only a guess.
Jessica,
I agree with both Harry's and Lookup's reply.
Since you have a 1953 model, then your Singer is an aluminium 201K24. 201 stands for the model, K stands for Kilbowie, Clydebank, Scotland plant, 2 stands for Mark 2 and 4 stands for hand crank.
I have a Singer earlier black cast iron 15K Hand crank and beige Singer 201K24. Both machines have been thoroughly cleaned, lubricated and adjusted. Both will sew 2 layers of lightweight leather all day long with full range of stitch length.
A lot of problems could be interfering with the stitch length. Hopefully it is something simple like build up of lint under the needle plate that is interfering with the feed dogs rising to their full height. If lint builds up under the needle plate there is usually a "clunking" sound as the feed dogs bind against the bottom of the needle plate. Enough lint in that location can create something that looks like felt and can ultimately bind up the machine. Along with the clunking sound the machine will be slower and create uneven stitches.
Harry's idea is the easiest to fix - the feed dogs might be dropped for free motion darning.
If the stitch length lever will not swing up and down fully, then something is binding its full range.
A complicated problem is someone has messed with the eccentric hinge screws on the feed rock shaft or the feed lifting rock shaft. If either of these eccentric screws are out of adjustment, then the feed dogs will not operate correctly. If you are mechanically inclined, then get a 201 Service Manual, study it carefully to confirm that is the problem. If the feed dogs do not rise to their proper height or extend to their proper length, then adjust the eccentric hinge screws.
Jessica,
I reviewed Harry's UA-cam video, "Reviving a Sewing Machine Singer 201K".
ua-cam.com/video/5r9y_h4VJ38/v-deo.html
Harry showed an example of cleaning his SInger 201K23 in the critical feed dogs and bobbin case area.
On his video you can hear the clunky sound at the beginning of the video before he cleans the area around the feed dogs, bobbin case, and bobbin case holder.
The 11:12 - 22:20 section of that video is where he cleans and lubricates these areas. After his work, the clunky sound is gone.
Thank you Harry for demonstrating Jessica's potential problem!
My PFAFF 230 works great sewing leather.
Do you think the steel old one is better than aluminium ?
They both have steel flywheels in the uk...so little difference really.
Hi, I was looking for the 201 on Craigslist and found a 301. Do you recommend that machine. And where can I buy a used 201? Thanks 1.21.19
Sorry I am not a machine dealer.
Try eBay?
I know. My question is do you recommend a 301 to work on LEATHER. thanks
Hi I am sorry I am not familiar with it...it appears to be similar to a Singer 201...perhaps best to try it or Google some more. I suspect it would be fine for light duty...of course you cannot beat an industrial machine with compound feed with needle feed etc. but this 301 might be a fair place to start if a low price and light duty leather. Regards Harry
what machine can I use to do leather belts, thick leather belts? I am looking for something to start. HAve a singer 4411 and it will not do what I need. Thanks
You will need a heavy duty harness machine...have a chat with Tysew Industrial Sewing in UK...if in US take a look at Cobra Class 4 etc and have a chat with a dealer to get proper advice.
Could you use a kevlar thread in this Machine?
Mr Krasker Possibly but if you want strength I don't think this is the machine to use.