I read the comments below. I didn't see anything about beeswax in comments, except from Waynetheseine. I'm pushing 70 years old, and I've sewn a lot of leather and canvas over the years for making tents and making things out of leather. I always used a little beeswax about a half an inch in a tube or a square chunk to lubricate the needle itself. I just rubbed the beeswax around the bottom of the needle so it would puncture the leather easier and wouldn't tangle or grab. You might try that. Almost any domestic sewing machine will sew leather the thickness you're sewing right now, as long as you have a leather needle in the machine. To sew thicker things you might have to go to the double needle lock stitch thing with an upper and lower needle by hand. That's for stitching saddles and things like that. I hope all this helps.
Its called a saddle stitch.... just because its for saddles............ tutorials all over youtube. watch more than one, as it seems everyone has there own tricks to get it done.
i have an old singer treadle sewing machine. the shuttle bobbin. i have it set up to sew 8oz veg tan on foot power. does great on it, not that hard of the leg/foot either
Hi My mother was a seamstress working in the colour loft for the Navy in Portsmouth in the second world war making officers uniforms and other things that officers needed for their uniform. After the war she left employment for the MOD and after getting married started a family in Portsmouth. When she left they allowed her to take the sowing machine that she used with her. All my clothes were hand made by her until I was about 25, this included the suite I got married in and the suites I wore to work. She never used a pattern but just looked at the person she was making the cloths for and then set about making the things. She also made cloths for her niece, they would send her a photo and she would make them cloths that fit like a glove according to my cousin. My father upgraded her singer sowing machine by attaching a motor with the foot pedal and there was no stopping her. I went to school a day and I had a duffel coat on, when my mother came to get me from school some of the other parents noticed my coat and asked her where she got it from, the outcome to that was my mother making duffle coats for everyone in my class at half a crown each.
Every once in while there is a moving comment to read. I am glad you took the time to write that about your mother. I would have loved to have purchased a suit or coat that was made specifically for me. Very cool!
Howdy! I'm a seamstress for an inflatable company, and handle all the repairs needing to happen on these heavy vinyl units. It seems like your bobbin hook is likely striking the top thread, and splitting it. This is an issue that is millimeters away from being solved. Proper tuning, and this little ripper should do you well!
As a teen I worked for a company that rented out inflatables and then staffed the events to supervise the children. I have an unreasonable hatred for inflatables after a couple summers of rolling up a 800lb haunted house that was soaked in another few hundred pounds of rain after spending 5 hours wrangling kids
@@Grom-rl8bm Lol I've been slinging the vinyl for five years. Its a hell of a grind, and i don't blame any ones hatred. I absolutely love the shit though lol.
Two very helpful hack. Use an air compressor (or canned air) to blow the thread down tube. Second, get a magnet to lift out the bobbin. I've had one of these for a while. Spent a few hours polishing the contact points to make it very smooth. Special bonus if you read this far, use a 8-32 machine screw and drill to rapidly wind a bobbin.
I've had mine for a while and I agree. A drill is much better as a bobbin winder. Lowering the thread with the wive that came with mine works perfectly. I did not polish the teeth of the walking foot. It gives me a better grab on the leather. It's just something I work with in the end when finishing up.
Hi Dustin, having had an accident in work some months ago, I have since been pretty much confined to home. This leaves me with a lot of time on my hands, and so, the days become very long indeed. Part of my time in the past few months is taken up watching stuff on utube, an eventually happened upon your channel. I have to say that it is so interesting, and your finished products are indeed works of art. Recently you done a knife for your dad's birthday I think, walnut handle with birch bark and a brass bolster, that was particularly beautiful. I'm sure your dad must have been right happy with it. Love the workshop. Seems like you have everything you could ever want in there. Watching people create with their hands was always a hobby of mine an so I look forward to seeing more of your creations. Nice job on Ray Meres knife👍. Wasn't gone on the one with the parachord handle tho, but that's just a personal thing. Anyhow, take care, and keep up the great work.. Regards John from Ireland
After watching this video I ended up buying one of these machines about a year ago. I built a similar mount for it and did a couple small projecst with it right after getting it. I was quite surprised at how well it worked almost out of the box! Your tips were helpful in getting me going a lot quicker. Thanks. I picked it up again over the holidays this year for a couple of larger projects using some heavy sailcloth material from some old sails. This time I spent a bit of additional time tuning it. Primarily I played around with experimenting with main and bobbin thread tensions. By the end of just an hour of adjustment, I was shocked at how consistent the machine was sewing! I pulled it out again this weekend for some pocket modifications to a set of overalls. I actually pulled it out rather than my mom's old Kenmore machine. As I was sewing through heavy existing seams, and a number of other factors, it just made more sense to use the heavier duty manual machine than the electric. For the price, and the projects I've got, it's proving to be perfect for what I need.
I've had one of these for many years now, and the thread breaking issue you experienced is _usually_ because the thread is too thick for the needle. There are a bunch of ways you can adjust top and bottom tension on those things via the holes in the bobbin carrier for the bottom or the position, number and tightness of the tensioners on top. Once you get it set up with a thread and needle that works that you like, just leave it that way. Changing threads on these is not like on a regular sewing machine - it takes more adjustment.
Very interesting video. I’m a long time tailor and have always wondered about the types of machines that sew leather as cobblers use. Pretty good for the price. 👍
Exactly right. These machines are the very epitome of rudmentary functionality. The cobblers in those bazzar markets repairing your pointed slippers in Pakistan don't change their thread or they wouldnt have any customers. I leave mine with 138 thread and a 140/22 needle. Then, the big fight is the thickness of the material relative to the stitch lenght and tension adjustments - which can be another cuss-fest all its own.
tysm for this video, I been having a tuf time finding a leather worker so I resigned my self to DIY my projects. Couldn't get a sewing machine to work but I think I have a shot with this one
Crude, simple, and solid. I like it. Need a workhorse sewing machine like this for sewing plastic sheets together. Same dilemma, the price tag of most industrial machines. This machine only needs a pulley on a drill motor, a belt, and a foot pedal, held together in a steady stand. Thanks for the demo. 😎
A lot of good information between the vid and the comments! I've only done some harness/tack repair using a speedy stitcher and leather clamp but have always been fascinated by the antique sewing machines in harness shops. Refreshing to see a new, less expensive unit available for folks, and so many people willing to share how to get them operating efficiently.
Okay, so I've had this same machine since this past summer and I had gotten so fed up with struggling how to thread it cause it kept snapping the upper thread, but I couldn't find a single video that showed clearly how to thread any part of it. THANK YOU SO MUCH! I can finally start doing some leather projects
RU serious. You had the directions! It's so frustrating to watch someone complicate a simple process. Had you don't that, you wouldn't had to back peddle for the wheel. Sheesh!!! 👏
The directions are useless, my friend. Once you open the box of these things, you are on your own. UA-cam is the best source for How To Make This POS Work.
New sub here. I personally appreciate you showing the little mistakes we all have done as makers. I tend to stay away from channels that show perfect results through editing.
The leather they left in your machine is a proof sample. It was sewn on this machine so you can see that it works. Any problems encountered are with the operator or setup. Also I would have cleaned up the cosmoline and oiled it a bit before use. The sticky cosmoline will mess with your tension...
I have one of these machines and have used it extensively. I have bought bigger needles, size 20 and use either 92 lb or 130 lb thread. I only use 100 % polyester thread and never put wax on it. The wax prevents it from moving smoothy through all the part. Also, the tip of the needle has been sharpened to a chisel point, like what they use for leather in industrial machines. I have also adjusted the little spring on the bobbin by bending it slightly to allow for the thicker thread. On my bobbin I have taken a small file and smoothed all the edges down (except for the point). This prevents the threat from breaking. Those sharp edges around the bobbin will sometimes snag the thread and it gets cut on the edges. Hope this helps.
These are intended for mounting on a post stand or at the corner of a bench; with the lower arm unobstructed. This allows deep workpieces to be switched up to the depth of the throat. If mounting on a bench use a rotating base so it can be moved out of the way.
Couple of tips. I drilled out all of the pivot holes and pressed a bearing or bronze bushing in each...as well as putting a small strip of teflon sheet under the shuttle/bobbin arm (?) makes it run 100X smoother. Also worth going over the whole thing with wet/dry just to remove any sharp edges, that stopped my threads breaking.
@@tristanhinkley1023 lol...I won't go into how long it took me to drill a 22mm hole through a steel block for the bearings. I should make a video of it really.
Thanks for this vid. I'vew been thinking about one of these machines for a while (I live off grid, on the road, with limited income, so I don't want to waste my money). Watching this, males me realise that I need to save up and get one, it will suit my needs more than adequately. Thanks again!
Wow, yours came in much better shape than mine did. I cleaned mine up, modified it a little for performance, and motorized it. It works, I particularly enjoy it when making belts. Took a while to get it "tuned" to run right though.
O.o ! Can you share details on how you motorized it? I've been eyeing sewing machine motor and pedal sets, but another youtuber found the speed to be too much. I suspect the pedal wasn't adjusted right, but maybe you have a solution
Found your channel and subsequently found a new set of hobbies. Thank you so much for putting this careful and well-rounded content on what is threatened to become lost arts
Amazing you can switch direction. I built a slide in table for my little tabletop machine. That is a unique machine, I have thousand dollar Tippman but you can't change direction, good video 👍
I’ve had one for 4 years now and it’s still working. You do need to be handy and willing to put plenty of time and effort into tuning these. Additionally, they are not really made to take a thread larger than a T69. They can be modified to take thread weight into the low 200s. If you work in veg tan they (and any other sewing machine) will leave marks that can be lessened by smoothing the foot. This isn’t what I would call a true walking foot. Like all patcher machines the foot drags the material past the needle. If the foot is too smooth it will not function properly and feed the material. If you’re looking to open the box and get started, this machine isn’t for you. They take time and plenty of trouble shooting as well as regular maintenance.
@Masterpiece Tools Agreed. I have 4 industrial sewing machines and the ability to service them is essential. The CLSP is a bit of a different story. It’s not entirely finished when you get it. The finishing on metal surfaces is rough and a good amount of fettling is necessary to make these usable.
Aren't you just the show off!! With your cool mancave workshop and all those nice saws and belt sanders, " I'll just make my own stand" lol smart dude!! I been thinking about getting into leather crafting so this video is pretty informative when it comes to a leather sewing machine
Mainly acres has the best vids on that machine, I dunno if mine would be operational without him lol. The machines do come a little rough but put a little time into it and its well worth the money. The needles and thread that came with mine were junk so I replaced those and its been great ever since, its also perfect for off grid or grid down situations.
I got the exact same machine about 5 years ago as a gift from my girlfriend (who has since become my wife). I used it to great effect after learning some of the quirks of the machine. I also stabbed my finger with it once... that thing has plenty of strength to do some serious damage, or to sew through very thick pieces of vege tan. I had to use some sandpaper to grind off a few rough parts to get it running smoothly, but after a while I ended up making some decent money with it.
Just FYI: The machine is intended to only be mounted at the back, with the bottom arm sticking out unsupported. This lets you do things like sew down the back of a tall boot with the boot hanging down below the bottom arm. Of course you probably don't need to do that, so your mounting should work fine for your use.
That narrow bottom is a huge advantage for making small narrow bags, and I built a removable platform to make the base much bigger for most jobs. After minor adjustments, proper thread and needles, and a simple wooden base with removable platform, this machine will do just about anything I want in leather. I never used a machine before but it is very easy and fun.
my godparents had a machine on a pedestal just as you describe ,as you quite rightly mention was to allow for larger work to be swung around the machine.
I have exactly the same sewing machine, we call it Versailles and it is very popular - simple, reliable, convenient and powerful enough for leather more than 3-4 mm thick. Requires only lubrication and proper needle adjustment. I made her a wide and heavy bed from a 50mm board, which would be more convenient to move and not screw to the table - six years of trouble-free operation. Good luck dude, you're cool)))
Cool, I've had one for 5 or more years now, still in the box, 65 bucks. But I have no time to use it. I would put a motor on it, did you know this is a cheap copy of a singer machine from way back? 🤔 cool video.
The bit of leather that you found in the machine was simply a quality control function to evidence that the factory had the machine working before boxing and shipping.
Good video, I have been considering getting one of those machines. Your video quality was great. The close ups of the machine shows what I had assumed. The machine looks like it would need a little work smoothing all the ruff edges,and polishing some of the moving parts. I think at that price that would be ok. Please keep us updated on how it performs. Thanks
Tips: You need to *match the correct needle size and tip to your thread size.* Check out The Thread Exchange (dot com) for quality thread & needles. I use thread sizes from Tex 70 (size 69) to Tex 210 (size 207) on this same patcher with Groz-Beckert needles (HAx1 and/or 15x1), but you can also use industrial needles by moving the needle arm up a little (mark the original position with a sharpie or scratch before you move it). I use bonded polyester thread. The key is the *proper match* of a *quality needle to quality thread size* that matches your needle/thread and material (leather, bio-plastic, canvass, etc.). >>Note: The included needles & the black fishing line thread are junk. That's why the sample sewn was not done with the fishing line thread.😉 Clean the flywheel with a bronze brush & WD40, use some 220-grit paper on the sharp milling areas on the flywheel, lightly grease the tracks in the arm, lube the bearings at the flywheel & cam, use 400-grit paper on the top & sides of the arm, smooth your needle hole going into the bobbin case (top & below - sharp edges cut tge thread) with a rubber-grit Dremel polishing bit, clean your bobbin, bobbin case and hook with 400-grit paper, *know which BOBBIN HOLES to thread thru for various thread sizes*, ensure the bobbin is set in the case & arm correctly for *timing*, and this machine will run great. It is a little time with the initial cleaning, prep & setup, but is fun & worth it. Invest the short time & you will know this machine.
@JunkMailBoxStuff wow! This is some great information. A friend of mine found one at a market stall here in Australia. It looks pretty much unused, although a little surface rust in places. So, he gifted it to me. I was unsure I wanted or needed it. Now the more I see, the I think how handy it will be. I usually hand sew leather and also have some canvas projects coming up. Your information here will be very helpful. Thank you!
This may have been mentioned before, not going to read through 700+ posts. First you WILL break many needles, buy some good quality Juki needles. And make sure that the eye is facing the correct direction. We used them almost exclusively in the large scale cushion manufacturer where I was a machine tech. They seem to last the longest, until the sewer gets bored and runs the needle into something so they could take a break, no the didn't change their own needles, we had to. Second, get some Mitchell abrasive sanding cord and run it through and around all of the thread path to smooth out any points of abrasion. And there will be many on that quality machine, to bugger up your thread. But take heart, in that short demo, you still did better than many of the sewers/machines I've had the pleasure to have serviced.
I got one for Christmas and after getting it tuned it’s great for my leather work (knife sheaths and various leather stuff like wraps for lighters, flasks and flashlights). When I saw you start to make the stand I was like...whoops didn’t leave room for the hand crank but you figured it out. Have fun.
I bought the same machine and being old I can't get the bottom thread through the needle. I just stick with the wooden saddle holder and stitch by hand which is relaxing. Plus I can double and triple stitch as I'm normally making holsters or belts and I don't want type of failure. I do still love the hand crank belt maker.
I own a Cobra 3 and Cobra 20, about $5,000 total for the 2. I also own one of these because it's the only machine under $3,500 that can do transverse (up the arm) feed in leather. It's a great little budget leather sewing machine. Need to do some tweaking, such as grinding down the foot teeth, but it works great with a little modification.
@Masterpiece Tools I was wondering if the main arm and other mechanical components were vintage resold with new pivots and other parts prone to failure. I am actually very intrigued as I want to start making custom tool belts and accsseroies with leather and polyester so I am in the research phase.
I saw one of those on eBay one time and got interested in it and since I seen you working on one I've gotten more interested again so now I'm a go ahead and get me one because I'm getting tired of hand-sewing myself. Thanks a lot enjoyed what I saw I hope to see good stuff in the future, thanks again have a great day stay safe and keep your powder dry!
Did you find that the more tension the wider the stitch ? I like mine thus far in that when not using it stows really nice ! I'm converting mine to motorized , hope its even better yet , i use both tension disks on mine !
The timing on this is impeccable, I literally just finished hand-stitching a leather Pouch I was making and then I saw your video in my feed. And I had not even been looking up anything related to leather. I might just have to check these machines out
The point of the legs is to have a free arm stitching for bulky work. To mount it on a piece of wood takes away the whole point of the open head sewing area. It will work for your knife sheaths but for anything that has any bulk to it you will need to build a stand for it. You could also have a Machine Shop build one for you and for the $95.00 you have invested it looks like it would still end up far cheaper than buying a large Commercial machine. I have an older Consew 206 RB-1 and it is a walking foot machine that I bought well over 25 years ago. It was a year old and I paid $1100.00 for it for my Canvas, Upholstery and Awning business. It is still working as good as it did on day one when it was bought brand new. I have always wanted a free arm leather machine and will look into this one so thank you for unboxing it. I will have a stand made for it. For the price it looks to be a great little handy machine for light leather work.
A block of 4x4 under the machine, through bolted to a 3/4" slab of plywood is sufficient for any sleeve work or tall boots. I have sewed 10x10 canvas tarps that easily roll up under the 3.5" clearance that provides. Toss the POS stand. Even if you welded it solid, it would still have too much flex to be if any use.
Very informative. I was looking for info on this machine and found your channel. I appreciate the detail shots, you had plenty of them. BTW, the little block that you put under the arm, doesn't need to be there. The opening under the base arm is to make seams down inside a bag or boot or shoe. I've read a few instances in which it was neccessary for the bolts in the base (back) were updated to larger/stronger ones. Also, you didn't show it, and I don't believe you did, oil the machine before you started using it. I've read that it makes a difference how the machine operates, especially the camshaft and tracks/grooves behind the crank wheel. The second, unmentioned, tensioner is there for dual stitching. Somewhere along the top of the machine is a hole for another spool mount. I believe a special needle and foot are required. And now a personal observation. Watching a wood worker deal with a mechanical project always makes me grin. He will have a special tool to draw a line on a board at precisely 22.5⁰. Another one to make a groove in a board that is exactly 7/64" wide. Now give that same guy a 7mm screw with a 10mm nut on it, and you get to see a demonstration of the creative uses of a needle nose plier and a vice grip. 😂 No offense intended.
Awesome video, I was having an absolute terrible morning an stumbled across this video. I dont have an interest in sewing leather but I enjoyed watching you build a stand an assemble the machine. Very calming channel. Definitely glad to find another craftsman channel !
You don't need the block of wood under the middle: the lower arm is supposed to be free floating so that you can get things like boot shafts over the lower arm. I'm a saddler and have 6 sewing machines in the shop and that little Chinese patcher actually gets a significant amount of use. It is not a bad machine if you take the time to disassemble some of the parts, clean, deburr and polish them up and tune things up a bit. Key areas to clean up include the lower bobbin and lower bobbin case and all the sharp edges around there, the presser foot is very sharp and will leave cut marks on the leather until you smooth those up.. A handy tool to make is to just glue a small magnet on a tab of leather- this makes removing and installing the lower bobbin case easy. Bonded polyester thread is the best choice for this and most other leather sewing machines.
I just bought same leather sawing machine and noticed that in order to use the stand that comes with the machine it needs to be installed with the two legs holding the heavy side of the machine in the front and one leg in the tale, I have been using it with no problem.
Many you tube videos on setup and prep of these machines. Once tuned to your liking they perform well. Many videos on accessories for them as well.. Many people all over the world currently operating a business with these also. Enjoyed the video.
I feel like the leather swatch left in there is normal. My sewing machines bought new came with fabric and a few of the stitches sewed in, as if the manufacturer was leaving in the quality check as proof.
This also is done so any excess oil coming out of the sewing machine is absorbed in the fabric swatch and not on the bed after being serviced/lubricated for the first time.
@@kazzooka I think these are usually included as a test piece for setting tension and also to demonstrate the machine was working normally at the time of shipment.
I actually bought a 1903, pedal driven, cast iron, Singer leatherworking sewingmachine last year, for €50,-. After a little TLC it runs like it's new, and gods I love that thing. Even with the old needle, it went through thick leather like a hot knife through butter.
I wondered if the flywheel could be causing the jerky spinning of the flywheel,does something need to be sanded out or polished to make it run smoothly
I bought this machine a year ago and haven’t set it up cuz it confused me and I have needed this video since the day I bought it. I am so thankful for this!!
It confused and frustrated me. I had to watch a score of UA-cam videos until I understood how to 'tune' it. One step not mentioned in this video is that you should completely disassemble and clean the machine because it comes full of factory grit and dirt.
@@MoistureMagnet Lol, you're so right. Mine was filthy. Have you heard of Bantam Saddle Tack? They carry just about all the spare parts you might need for this machine. I stocked up on bearings.
The patience you had on set up was something to envy. I’d have launched it into the wall after the string breaking the 3rd time. Lol. Awesome video man!
Just a thought, but if you were to want a motorized version you could cut a wooden wheel the same size as the wheel on the machine. Drill a center hole for a motor shaft. Cut a dowel rod in half and glue inside shaft hole so that motor shaft with flat fits hole. Then add a regular sewing machine foot pedal to motor's power in line. That would make it a hands free sewing machine. Just a thought.
I bought one a few months ago. Once it's set up (the bobbin was a bit of a mystery for me) it works really well on any leather. For the price it can't be beat. So much better than hand stitching. Sure, a $1000 electric is better, but let's face it, most of us will only use this thing for a couple of projects a year and it does its job in spades.
Hah, the first thing I do is open the box trash the legs and base. The first thing I worked on was 11 torn up jeans, (otherwise trash) so it made my money back first week I owned it. Love these old-school things !!
The machine is awsome! When I got mine in November 2020 I had to file down every edge that the thread touches BOBBINS TOO!!! and oil the hell out of it. But once you get it tuned up you'll wonder why you hesitated on buying one. Especially at the price you find them on Amazon. There are different models and as far as I know they are all different in some way.
noice dude, i can't wait to see you modify it with a bicycle chain and some gears welded to the handle to make it foot powered. never underestimate your "footing tools"! they had the right idea in the 1800s. keep em coming, i'll keep watching!
I just finished my first leather project which was a 6 oz leather desk top. I used a 16.5” HD cylinder sewing machine that I bought. Way more power than I needed for the job but it soon became apparent that you need large off feed surfaces or 4 arms to manage the leather over the machine. Also the power required at times as I hand feed via the 12” flywheel was shocking. I can’t imagine using a manual machine on anything but small handheld projects! I hope this machine works for you!
I had similar experience setting mine up... Took some fiddling and swearing but eventually got it ticking along. It's definitely for patch work and tinkering. If you're looking to make quality goods, search for a used walking foot machine instead.
Howdy Folks, Some folks on here have mentioned the treadle machine. I’m 74 and am blessed to have the Singer treadle that my grandmother taught me to sew on. It’s the long bobbin and I’ll fill 5 of them at the time. I’ve sewed leather, canvas, heavy webbing, and just about every thing on it at one time or another. I also have a Singer (non-electrical, hand-crank) portable. I use it for the real heavy stuff. They both work great, so cannot see purchasing another sewing machine. CB
The 2 tension knobs: first one, pull thread under bottom to top, loop behind tension spring, this is for thread tension. Second knob thread goes over top then down. This knob works to help bobbin and lower thread feed up. You should use same type thread ( heavy duty upholstery, waxed or nylon thread) for bobbin and feeder thread. You might want to use saddle soap on your leather first; makes leather more payable and easier for the needle to pierce, just suggestions to help. Enjoy your new toy.
P.s. I forgot to add; I learned a great simple shop/craft/sewing tip along time ago that is a great preventive of rust and helps any material your working with to slide or move on metal surfaces; i use turtle wax rubbing compound on all my tool table tops, sewing machine foot and plate; scissor, knife and axe blades (non food of course).
I have one of these had the same problems you had. I went to a local sewing store and bought needles with larger eyes for the thread I was using. I also had to play with the screw tension on the Bobbin Shuttle to get larger thread to work. I can sew 9oz leather now but the presser foot tears up the leather!! Looks like railroad tracks. I've been considering filing the raised area on the bottom of the presser foot smoother but I'm worried it may not feed if I do it. I make leather aprons and use Utility sides, I make some of the parts for the harnesses with this machine. The sides are only around 5oz and it works GREAT for that.
Late to the show here, but I am cringing looking at this workshop. The cob webs killed me, no vacuum for the dust! Like your energy but man I could not work in your shop.
@@captwaswank I constantly clean my shop but it's almost useless as I live in a desert environment with high winds that carry dust, and populated by long legged spiders who love to catch flies up high in the rafters.
The Singer I used working in shoe repair had a threading tool for that tube in the head. A length of fine rod/wire, flattened & a notch in one end, a loop as a grip point the other. Thread lays over the notch, pinch to the shaft & turn as a friction fix. Push it thru, grab off end, retrieve & proceed. Much easier than pushing thread thru that lenght of tube
I noticed that the bobbin with the thread wasn't wound consistently, maybe that contributed to the thread breakage. On my machine, if I get messed up stitches: rewinding the bobbin helps.
Have fun I have that model. My dad and I worked on sanding down parts that are rough on the machine because of the casting. By sanding down the metal it won’t cut the material or the thread on accident. I also bought leather thread and leather needles that don’t come with it. You’ll need wax leather thread is the best for leather making. Also sand the bobbin that holds the thread. I just used simple sandpaper made for metal. I’m still working on modifying mine some more.
I own this machine and I freaking love it . It’s amazing I didn’t need to do mods to it and honestly I didn’t take it apart either like others have , I did clean up all the oil but it works wonderful
Same here, I just wiped it down, oiled it and went to town making holsters for some Star Wars cosplayers, no issues, first 3 blaster holster paid for this machine and the materials, I love it.
Absolutely love how raw and rustic your man cave is.. as soon as i seen the cob webs when you were searching for wood i subbed lol Great work i look forward to watching your previous and new vids..
I have one. That thread is the type needed for leather. One thing (ok - few things) I did was to smooth out the rough stuff in the necessary areas - where parts interact with each other. Another was to use high tech oil on all moving parts. Smooth running makes smooth stitching. If you do biggish pieces, make a wide platform that fits around the arm. Much easier to sew when the whole piece is flat. Clamping to bench makes a big difference. That big flywheel will move the machine also. Overall - for random uses occasionally - these machines are pretty decent.
This is the most detailed and in depth vid I've seen. I bought one that looks like the exact knock I got but I'm having trouble getting mine to work caused by a sticking sliding arm.
No its not... but it is good. keep looking there are some good, extremely detailed vids available on UA-cam. Have fun I love mine! Had it 2 months now and after filling and oiling everything and watching EVERY video for advice. It works like a champ no complaints. Sand / file every surface the thread comes in contact with. Play with tension both top and bottom on scraps till tou get what you want. Good luck have fun!
I just received this machine from Amazon, so glad I found your video. Look forward to watching it over and over tomorrow and get going. I am starting a clothing company and wanted something like this to sew patches to hats.
This thing is relatively compact but you'll want some sort of clamp to keep it from moving around on you if you choose to make your own base. The tripod it comes with was absolutely worthless and it does need a quick wood base with a clamp or a grip matt under it. It only has one stitch size but is very easy to learn and can stich in circles just by rotating the foot thingamabob.
If one has the ability to, i would say to make a wooden box type case, with latches at the base, that acts like an old typewriter or sewing machine box/case
I bought one a few years ago and then bought a surge motor for about 100$ and remade the main shaft and fit a pulley on the otherside of the hand crank and now mine is electric and made a steel stand, works great 👍
As always, a great show of details. All that perseverance pays off. Enjoy your show & the background music. So when is the next back porch live black smiting ? Thank you for sharing. Stay safe mate. Greetings from Christmas Island.
I worked for the Reece Corp out of Waltham Mass.that made eyelet and keyhole buttonhole machines from 1880-1980 that worked on leather shoes and dress coats both spools of thread had be soaked in oil or silicones to work correctly. These were the fastest machines made for production work and much smoke was released while sewing from the hot oil thread.
Then I watched a video about motorizing the machine. Now I can’t remember what channel it was on. It seems like to motorize it was less than $50 with Amazon parts. A sewing machine motor with foot feet, a bracket from an electrical box and a pulley. The pulley attached via the electrical bracket and the sewing machine motor already had a pulley. The one caveat was that to get the motor to turn in the right direction you had to put a twist in the belt. The belt was made from weed wicker tubing. Cut to length and melted together to form a belt. Pretty neat and it worked great.
Bet if it was not too much trouble to disassemble all the moving parts and you polished them with a bench grinder buffing wheel and rouge it would be smooth as butter.
I read the comments below. I didn't see anything about beeswax in comments, except from Waynetheseine. I'm pushing 70 years old, and I've sewn a lot of leather and canvas over the years for making tents and making things out of leather. I always used a little beeswax about a half an inch in a tube or a square chunk to lubricate the needle itself. I just rubbed the beeswax around the bottom of the needle so it would puncture the leather easier and wouldn't tangle or grab. You might try that. Almost any domestic sewing machine will sew leather the thickness you're sewing right now, as long as you have a leather needle in the machine. To sew thicker things you might have to go to the double needle lock stitch thing with an upper and lower needle by hand. That's for stitching saddles and things like that. I hope all this helps.
Barely getting into leather crafting and this comment pushed me in the right direction! Thank you!
People that do hand embroidery, top stitching with multiple threads use bees wax to keep the threads from twisting.
My old Adler 30-1 has a beeswax cup to wax thread as it fed through.
Its called a saddle stitch.... just because its for saddles............
tutorials all over youtube. watch more than one, as it seems everyone has there own tricks to get it done.
i have an old singer treadle sewing machine. the shuttle bobbin. i have it set up to sew 8oz veg tan on foot power. does great on it, not that hard of the leg/foot either
Hi My mother was a seamstress working in the colour loft for the Navy in Portsmouth in the second world war making officers uniforms and other things that officers needed for their uniform. After the war she left employment for the MOD and after getting married started a family in Portsmouth. When she left they allowed her to take the sowing machine that she used with her. All my clothes were hand made by her until I was about 25, this included the suite I got married in and the suites I wore to work. She never used a pattern but just looked at the person she was making the cloths for and then set about making the things. She also made cloths for her niece, they would send her a photo and she would make them cloths that fit like a glove according to my cousin. My father upgraded her singer sowing machine by attaching a motor with the foot pedal and there was no stopping her. I went to school a day and I had a duffel coat on, when my mother came to get me from school some of the other parents noticed my coat and asked her where she got it from, the outcome to that was my mother making duffle coats for everyone in my class at half a crown each.
That's very cool! You are blessed to have a gifted seamstress for a mother
I live 9 minutes away from Portsmouth! Neat
Every once in while there is a moving comment to read. I am glad you took the time to write that about your mother. I would have loved to have purchased a suit or coat that was made specifically for me. Very cool!
>>- 💝--> MOM
Thank you for telling us your family history !
Howdy! I'm a seamstress for an inflatable company, and handle all the repairs needing to happen on these heavy vinyl units. It seems like your bobbin hook is likely striking the top thread, and splitting it. This is an issue that is millimeters away from being solved. Proper tuning, and this little ripper should do you well!
As a teen I worked for a company that rented out inflatables and then staffed the events to supervise the children. I have an unreasonable hatred for inflatables after a couple summers of rolling up a 800lb haunted house that was soaked in another few hundred pounds of rain after spending 5 hours wrangling kids
@@Grom-rl8bm I hope you were well compensated
@@Grom-rl8bm Lol I've been slinging the vinyl for five years. Its a hell of a grind, and i don't blame any ones hatred. I absolutely love the shit though lol.
Two very helpful hack. Use an air compressor (or canned air) to blow the thread down tube. Second, get a magnet to lift out the bobbin. I've had one of these for a while. Spent a few hours polishing the contact points to make it very smooth. Special bonus if you read this far, use a 8-32 machine screw and drill to rapidly wind a bobbin.
I've had mine for a while and I agree. A drill is much better as a bobbin winder. Lowering the thread with the wive that came with mine works perfectly. I did not polish the teeth of the walking foot. It gives me a better grab on the leather. It's just something I work with in the end when finishing up.
It looks like it's worth getting.
Why not use a drill and drive belt to drive the hand wheel ?
@@TheRealBrownShady That will depend on the needle and project. Out of the box and for a wide range of common uses I use a #69 bonded nylon thread.
using a drill to wind the bobbin defeats the whole purpose, you might as well just spend a couple hundred bucks more and get an electric consew
Hi Dustin, having had an accident in work some months ago, I have since been pretty much confined to home. This leaves me with a lot of time on my hands, and so, the days become very long indeed. Part of my time in the past few months is taken up watching stuff on utube, an eventually happened upon your channel. I have to say that it is so interesting, and your finished products are indeed works of art. Recently you done a knife for your dad's birthday I think, walnut handle with birch bark and a brass bolster, that was particularly beautiful. I'm sure your dad must have been right happy with it. Love the workshop. Seems like you have everything you could ever want in there. Watching people create with their hands was always a hobby of mine an so I look forward to seeing more of your creations. Nice job on Ray Meres knife👍. Wasn't gone on the one with the parachord handle tho, but that's just a personal thing. Anyhow, take care, and keep up the great work.. Regards John from Ireland
After watching this video I ended up buying one of these machines about a year ago. I built a similar mount for it and did a couple small projecst with it right after getting it. I was quite surprised at how well it worked almost out of the box! Your tips were helpful in getting me going a lot quicker. Thanks.
I picked it up again over the holidays this year for a couple of larger projects using some heavy sailcloth material from some old sails. This time I spent a bit of additional time tuning it. Primarily I played around with experimenting with main and bobbin thread tensions. By the end of just an hour of adjustment, I was shocked at how consistent the machine was sewing! I pulled it out again this weekend for some pocket modifications to a set of overalls. I actually pulled it out rather than my mom's old Kenmore machine. As I was sewing through heavy existing seams, and a number of other factors, it just made more sense to use the heavier duty manual machine than the electric. For the price, and the projects I've got, it's proving to be perfect for what I need.
You know... I have no use for this machine but it’s always a joy to watch a fellow craftsman. Very well produced and filmed. Thank you for sharing.
I've had one of these for many years now, and the thread breaking issue you experienced is _usually_ because the thread is too thick for the needle. There are a bunch of ways you can adjust top and bottom tension on those things via the holes in the bobbin carrier for the bottom or the position, number and tightness of the tensioners on top. Once you get it set up with a thread and needle that works that you like, just leave it that way. Changing threads on these is not like on a regular sewing machine - it takes more adjustment.
I have one of these for many years and I completely agree with all you said in your comment.
I was just gonna say the same thing.
Wow! That's good to know. Thanks.
Very interesting video. I’m a long time tailor and have always wondered about the types of machines that sew leather as cobblers use. Pretty good for the price. 👍
Exactly right. These machines are the very epitome of rudmentary functionality. The cobblers in those bazzar markets repairing your pointed slippers in Pakistan don't change their thread or they wouldnt have any customers. I leave mine with 138 thread and a 140/22 needle. Then, the big fight is the thickness of the material relative to the stitch lenght and tension adjustments - which can be another cuss-fest all its own.
tysm for this video, I been having a tuf time finding a leather worker so I resigned my self to DIY my projects. Couldn't get a sewing machine to work but I think I have a shot with this one
Crude, simple, and solid. I like it. Need a workhorse sewing machine like this for sewing plastic sheets together. Same dilemma, the price tag of most industrial machines. This machine only needs a pulley on a drill motor, a belt, and a foot pedal, held together in a steady stand. Thanks for the demo. 😎
You got it! Aqualung!
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship "Ya poor ol' salt, you see it's only me..." 😎
A lot of good information between the vid and the comments! I've only done some harness/tack repair using a speedy stitcher and leather clamp but have always been fascinated by the antique sewing machines in harness shops. Refreshing to see a new, less expensive unit available for folks, and so many people willing to share how to get them operating efficiently.
Okay, so I've had this same machine since this past summer and I had gotten so fed up with struggling how to thread it cause it kept snapping the upper thread, but I couldn't find a single video that showed clearly how to thread any part of it. THANK YOU SO MUCH! I can finally start doing some leather projects
RU serious. You had the directions! It's so frustrating to watch someone complicate a simple process. Had you don't that, you wouldn't had to back peddle for the wheel. Sheesh!!! 👏
The directions are useless, my friend. Once you open the box of these things, you are on your own. UA-cam is the best source for How To Make This POS Work.
New sub here. I personally appreciate you showing the little mistakes we all have done as makers. I tend to stay away from channels that show perfect results through editing.
The leather they left in your machine is a proof sample. It was sewn on this machine so you can see that it works. Any problems encountered are with the operator or setup. Also I would have cleaned up the cosmoline and oiled it a bit before use. The sticky cosmoline will mess with your tension...
I8
@@dennissmith8385 ???????
Look up the defintion for cosmoline. It's like earwax. Sort of.
@@patriciajrs46 best description ever....
Depends on the supplier.@@patriciajrs46
Wow I admire your tenacity in putting that together and getting it working. I'm not buying one it would drive me completely mad.
I have one of these machines and have used it extensively.
I have bought bigger needles, size 20 and use either 92 lb or 130 lb thread. I only use 100 % polyester thread and never put wax on it. The wax prevents it from moving smoothy through all the part.
Also, the tip of the needle has been sharpened to a chisel point, like what they use for leather in industrial machines.
I have also adjusted the little spring on the bobbin by bending it slightly to allow for the thicker thread.
On my bobbin I have taken a small file and smoothed all the edges down (except for the point). This prevents the threat from breaking. Those sharp edges around the bobbin will sometimes snag the thread and it gets cut on the edges.
Hope this helps.
Excellent comment. me-too.
These are intended for mounting on a post stand or at the corner of a bench; with the lower arm unobstructed. This allows deep workpieces to be switched up to the depth of the throat.
If mounting on a bench use a rotating base so it can be moved out of the way.
Came here to say the same
@@maryannadkins-bahena1178 "heads up guys, the boss is speaking." Makes so much more sense now, thanks for clarifying.
Couple of tips. I drilled out all of the pivot holes and pressed a bearing or bronze bushing in each...as well as putting a small strip of teflon sheet under the shuttle/bobbin arm (?) makes it run 100X smoother. Also worth going over the whole thing with wet/dry just to remove any sharp edges, that stopped my threads breaking.
Could i order one to your house for you to mod it and ship it to me hahaha
@@tristanhinkley1023 lol...I won't go into how long it took me to drill a 22mm hole through a steel block for the bearings.
I should make a video of it really.
Thank you for letting us know about the issues you had.
Thanks for this vid. I'vew been thinking about one of these machines for a while (I live off grid, on the road, with limited income, so I don't want to waste my money).
Watching this, males me realise that I need to save up and get one, it will suit my needs more than adequately. Thanks again!
Thanks for watching.
Wow, yours came in much better shape than mine did. I cleaned mine up, modified it a little for performance, and motorized it. It works, I particularly enjoy it when making belts. Took a while to get it "tuned" to run right though.
:) What sort of motor did you use?
O.o ! Can you share details on how you motorized it? I've been eyeing sewing machine motor and pedal sets, but another youtuber found the speed to be too much. I suspect the pedal wasn't adjusted right, but maybe you have a solution
Found your channel and subsequently found a new set of hobbies. Thank you so much for putting this careful and well-rounded content on what is threatened to become lost arts
Amazing you can switch direction. I built a slide in table for my little tabletop machine. That is a unique machine, I have thousand dollar Tippman but you can't change direction, good video 👍
I’ve had one for 4 years now and it’s still working. You do need to be handy and willing to put plenty of time and effort into tuning these. Additionally, they are not really made to take a thread larger than a T69. They can be modified to take thread weight into the low 200s. If you work in veg tan they (and any other sewing machine) will leave marks that can be lessened by smoothing the foot. This isn’t what I would call a true walking foot. Like all patcher machines the foot drags the material past the needle. If the foot is too smooth it will not function properly and feed the material. If you’re looking to open the box and get started, this machine isn’t for you. They take time and plenty of trouble shooting as well as regular maintenance.
@Masterpiece Tools Agreed. I have 4 industrial sewing machines and the ability to service them is essential. The CLSP is a bit of a different story. It’s not entirely finished when you get it. The finishing on metal surfaces is rough and a good amount of fettling is necessary to make these usable.
Agreed, not a true compound walking foot where the foot would be split into two parts, one of which would always be in contact with the workpiece.
Aren't you just the show off!! With your cool mancave workshop and all those nice saws and belt sanders, " I'll just make my own stand" lol smart dude!! I been thinking about getting into leather crafting so this video is pretty informative when it comes to a leather sewing machine
Mainly acres has the best vids on that machine, I dunno if mine would be operational without him lol. The machines do come a little rough but put a little time into it and its well worth the money. The needles and thread that came with mine were junk so I replaced those and its been great ever since, its also perfect for off grid or grid down situations.
I got the exact same machine about 5 years ago as a gift from my girlfriend (who has since become my wife). I used it to great effect after learning some of the quirks of the machine. I also stabbed my finger with it once... that thing has plenty of strength to do some serious damage, or to sew through very thick pieces of vege tan. I had to use some sandpaper to grind off a few rough parts to get it running smoothly, but after a while I ended up making some decent money with it.
Can I ask you for the brand and model # ? Thanks
Just FYI: The machine is intended to only be mounted at the back, with the bottom arm sticking out unsupported. This lets you do things like sew down the back of a tall boot with the boot hanging down below the bottom arm. Of course you probably don't need to do that, so your mounting should work fine for your use.
As a cobbler, I was just about to say this :)
That narrow bottom is a huge advantage for making small narrow bags, and I built a removable platform to make the base much bigger for most jobs. After minor adjustments, proper thread and needles, and a simple wooden base with removable platform, this machine will do just about anything I want in leather. I never used a machine before but it is very easy and fun.
my godparents had a machine on a pedestal just as you describe ,as you quite rightly mention was to allow for larger work to be swung around the machine.
yep... u got it...
Are you saying it needs to be mounted vertically...
I watch your videos about 20 times, I was able to do it 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼. Thank you for your video 🤗
I have exactly the same sewing machine, we call it Versailles and it is very popular - simple, reliable, convenient and powerful enough for leather more than 3-4 mm thick. Requires only lubrication and proper needle adjustment. I made her a wide and heavy bed from a 50mm board, which would be more convenient to move and not screw to the table - six years of trouble-free operation. Good luck dude, you're cool)))
I love sewing machines even though I don't sew, I just always thought that they were an amazing invention and that one there is pretty cool.
I agree Leslie.
Agreed. If you’ve not seen it yet, Tim Hunkin’s Secret Life of Machines series is now on UA-cam - including the Sewing Machine episode.
Cool, I've had one for 5 or more years now, still in the box, 65 bucks. But I have no time to use it. I would put a motor on it, did you know this is a cheap copy of a singer machine from way back? 🤔 cool video.
Top tensioner is for the needle an the bottom one is for adding tension while winding the bobbin.
The bit of leather that you found in the machine was simply a quality control function to evidence that the factory had the machine working before boxing and shipping.
Good video, I have been considering getting one of those machines. Your video quality was great. The close ups of the machine shows what I had assumed. The machine looks like it would need a little work smoothing all the ruff edges,and polishing some of the moving parts. I think at that price that would be ok. Please keep us updated on how it performs. Thanks
Tips: You need to *match the correct needle size and tip to your thread size.*
Check out The Thread Exchange (dot com) for quality thread & needles. I use thread sizes from Tex 70 (size 69) to Tex 210 (size 207) on this same patcher with Groz-Beckert needles (HAx1 and/or 15x1), but you can also use industrial needles by moving the needle arm up a little (mark the original position with a sharpie or scratch before you move it).
I use bonded polyester thread. The key is the *proper match* of a *quality needle to quality thread size* that matches your needle/thread and material (leather, bio-plastic, canvass, etc.).
>>Note: The included needles & the black fishing line thread are junk. That's why the sample sewn was not done with the fishing line thread.😉
Clean the flywheel with a bronze brush & WD40, use some 220-grit paper on the sharp milling areas on the flywheel, lightly grease the tracks in the arm, lube the bearings at the flywheel & cam, use 400-grit paper on the top & sides of the arm, smooth your needle hole going into the bobbin case (top & below - sharp edges cut tge thread) with a rubber-grit Dremel polishing bit, clean your bobbin, bobbin case and hook with 400-grit paper, *know which BOBBIN HOLES to thread thru for various thread sizes*, ensure the bobbin is set in the case & arm correctly for *timing*, and this machine will run great.
It is a little time with the initial cleaning, prep & setup, but is fun & worth it. Invest the short time & you will know this machine.
@JunkMailBoxStuff wow! This is some great information. A friend of mine found one at a market stall here in Australia. It looks pretty much unused, although a little surface rust in places. So, he gifted it to me. I was unsure I wanted or needed it. Now the more I see, the I think how handy it will be. I usually hand sew leather and also have some canvas projects coming up.
Your information here will be very helpful.
Thank you!
This may have been mentioned before, not going to read through 700+ posts. First you WILL break many needles, buy some good quality Juki needles. And make sure that the eye is facing the correct direction. We used them almost exclusively in the large scale cushion manufacturer where I was a machine tech. They seem to last the longest, until the sewer gets bored and runs the needle into something so they could take a break, no the didn't change their own needles, we had to. Second, get some Mitchell abrasive sanding cord and run it through and around all of the thread path to smooth out any points of abrasion. And there will be many on that quality machine, to bugger up your thread. But take heart, in that short demo, you still did better than many of the sewers/machines I've had the pleasure to have serviced.
Thanks Kruse. I’ll definitely take your advice.
I got one for Christmas and after getting it tuned it’s great for my leather work (knife sheaths and various leather stuff like wraps for lighters, flasks and flashlights). When I saw you start to make the stand I was like...whoops didn’t leave room for the hand crank but you figured it out. Have fun.
I bought the same machine and being old I can't get the bottom thread through the needle. I just stick with the wooden saddle holder and stitch by hand which is relaxing. Plus I can double and triple stitch as I'm normally making holsters or belts and I don't want type of failure. I do still love the hand crank belt maker.
I own a Cobra 3 and Cobra 20, about $5,000 total for the 2. I also own one of these because it's the only machine under $3,500 that can do transverse (up the arm) feed in leather. It's a great little budget leather sewing machine. Need to do some tweaking, such as grinding down the foot teeth, but it works great with a little modification.
@Masterpiece Tools I was wondering if the main arm and other mechanical components were vintage resold with new pivots and other parts prone to failure. I am actually very intrigued as I want to start making custom tool belts and accsseroies with leather and polyester so I am in the research phase.
@masterpiecetools131 what are we looking for with these other models you're talking about, names? Singer 29k SV8 Cobbler Patching??
What kind of leather thicknesses can this $100 model handle? I'm worried it won't be useable for belts.
I don't know about your leather craft skills, but the video is beautiful, the closeups, light, post production, very nice and useful.
Dustin, i like where you are going with this. Reviewing tools, designing tools and making tools. Love it man.
Thank you
I saw one of those on eBay one time and got interested in it and since I seen you working on one I've gotten more interested again so now I'm a go ahead and get me one because I'm getting tired of hand-sewing myself. Thanks a lot enjoyed what I saw I hope to see good stuff in the future, thanks again have a great day stay safe and keep your powder dry!
I admire how you have used every available inch of space in your shop.
I was thinking the same. Small but very clever use of space!
Is that what you call it? 🙂 my shop is the same- some days i think man a warehouse with individual sections for each category of work would be heaven.
Did you find that the more tension the wider the stitch ? I like mine thus far in that when not using it stows really nice ! I'm converting mine to motorized , hope its even better yet , i use both tension disks on mine !
The timing on this is impeccable, I literally just finished hand-stitching a leather Pouch I was making and then I saw your video in my feed.
And I had not even been looking up anything related to leather. I might just have to check these machines out
Lol just spent an hour sewing one side of a pouch
Exelent! I just got mine and TOTTALLY appreciate your video here. Thank you so much! Great editing and content.
The point of the legs is to have a free arm stitching for bulky work. To mount it on a piece of wood takes away the whole point of the open head sewing area. It will work for your knife sheaths but for anything that has any bulk to it you will need to build a stand for it. You could also have a Machine Shop build one for you and for the $95.00 you have invested it looks like it would still end up far cheaper than buying a large Commercial machine. I have an older Consew 206 RB-1 and it is a walking foot machine that I bought well over 25 years ago. It was a year old and I paid $1100.00 for it for my Canvas, Upholstery and Awning business. It is still working as good as it did on day one when it was bought brand new. I have always wanted a free arm leather machine and will look into this one so thank you for unboxing it. I will have a stand made for it. For the price it looks to be a great little handy machine for light leather work.
A block of 4x4 under the machine, through bolted to a 3/4" slab of plywood is sufficient for any sleeve work or tall boots. I have sewed 10x10 canvas tarps that easily roll up under the 3.5" clearance that provides. Toss the POS stand. Even if you welded it solid, it would still have too much flex to be if any use.
Also your cheap stand the sewing machine came with is better than the one I ordered. Watching you to put it together
Very informative. I was looking for info on this machine and found your channel. I appreciate the detail shots, you had plenty of them.
BTW, the little block that you put under the arm, doesn't need to be there. The opening under the base arm is to make seams down inside a bag or boot or shoe. I've read a few instances in which it was neccessary for the bolts in the base (back) were updated to larger/stronger ones. Also, you didn't show it, and I don't believe you did, oil the machine before you started using it. I've read that it makes a difference how the machine operates, especially the camshaft and tracks/grooves behind the crank wheel.
The second, unmentioned, tensioner is there for dual stitching. Somewhere along the top of the machine is a hole for another spool mount. I believe a special needle and foot are required.
And now a personal observation. Watching a wood worker deal with a mechanical project always makes me grin. He will have a special tool to draw a line on a board at precisely 22.5⁰. Another one to make a groove in a board that is exactly 7/64" wide. Now give that same guy a 7mm screw with a 10mm nut on it, and you get to see a demonstration of the creative uses of a needle nose plier and a vice grip.
😂 No offense intended.
Lol was thinking the same thing when I saw him bust out the pliers
Where do I oil it?
@@lookinuparena this is a really good video about oiling this machine. I hope it helps.
ua-cam.com/video/M8SI3Yui1Qk/v-deo.htmlsi=MaGKkEkJz2hU8uSX
I like the way you explain and show you mistakes or issues that come about....enjoy you channel....
Just getting into leather working, the hand stitching is killing me, been looking into these. Can't wait to see some results and verdict.
Awesome video, I was having an absolute terrible morning an stumbled across this video. I dont have an interest in sewing leather but I enjoyed watching you build a stand an assemble the machine. Very calming channel. Definitely glad to find another craftsman channel !
Thanks for watching brother! Hope you are having a better day today.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship Thanks, Definitely having a better time. It was just one of those days
You don't need the block of wood under the middle: the lower arm is supposed to be free floating so that you can get things like boot shafts over the lower arm.
I'm a saddler and have 6 sewing machines in the shop and that little Chinese patcher actually gets a significant amount of use. It is not a bad machine if you take the time to disassemble some of the parts, clean, deburr and polish them up and tune things up a bit. Key areas to clean up include the lower bobbin and lower bobbin case and all the sharp edges around there, the presser foot is very sharp and will leave cut marks on the leather until you smooth those up..
A handy tool to make is to just glue a small magnet on a tab of leather- this makes removing and installing the lower bobbin case easy. Bonded polyester thread is the best choice for this and most other leather sewing machines.
Thanks for the info! Lots to do for sure.
I just bought same leather sawing machine and noticed that in order to use the stand that comes with the machine it needs to be installed with the two legs holding the heavy side of the machine in the front and one leg in the tale, I have been using it with no problem.
It’s an interesting and fun machine.
I don't think the tread is the problem because it's supposed to sew shoes!! But in any case I think is a good investment. Thanks for share
Many you tube videos on setup and prep of these machines. Once tuned to your liking they perform well. Many videos on accessories for them as well.. Many people all over the world currently operating a business with these also. Enjoyed the video.
I feel like the leather swatch left in there is normal. My sewing machines bought new came with fabric and a few of the stitches sewed in, as if the manufacturer was leaving in the quality check as proof.
Also with that arm hanging in the wind, if its dropped in shipment, it keeps a shock absorber in place. Gotta prevent that metal from smacking.
This also is done so any excess oil coming out of the sewing machine is absorbed in the fabric swatch and not on the bed after being serviced/lubricated for the first time.
@@kazzooka I think these are usually included as a test piece for setting tension and also to demonstrate the machine was working normally at the time of shipment.
I actually bought a 1903, pedal driven, cast iron, Singer leatherworking sewingmachine last year, for €50,-.
After a little TLC it runs like it's new, and gods I love that thing. Even with the old needle, it went through thick leather like a hot knife through butter.
Awesome. The old machines work really well.
I wondered if the flywheel could be causing the jerky spinning of the flywheel,does something need to be sanded out or polished to make it run smoothly
Its always fun to watch someone else "F"up the plan, just like i would, be honest, then make it perfect! Great video, thanks!
Thanks for watching Rewind!
The point of having the deep space under the machine (where you put the block) is so you can sew in deep pockets or narrow spaces
I bought this machine a year ago and haven’t set it up cuz it confused me and I have needed this video since the day I bought it. I am so thankful for this!!
It confused and frustrated me. I had to watch a score of UA-cam videos until I understood how to 'tune' it. One step not mentioned in this video is that you should completely disassemble and clean the machine because it comes full of factory grit and dirt.
@@Al-Fiallos I haven’t even fooled with it. I thought about that though because it comes caked in grease.
@@MoistureMagnet Lol, you're so right. Mine was filthy. Have you heard of Bantam Saddle Tack? They carry just about all the spare parts you might need for this machine. I stocked up on bearings.
@@Al-Fiallos no I havent. I’ll check them out
I was a tailor for a long time and I think that machine had a certain kind of cool.
For light leather I have used my grandmothers treadle sewing machine with great success.
The patience you had on set up was something to envy. I’d have launched it into the wall after the string breaking the 3rd time. Lol. Awesome video man!
No doubt!, I was thinking 'what a nightmare machine, spend more for something that works, and has a foot pedal!'
Just a thought, but if you were to want a motorized version you could cut a wooden wheel the same size as the wheel on the machine. Drill a center hole for a motor shaft. Cut a dowel rod in half and glue inside shaft hole so that motor shaft with flat fits hole. Then add a regular sewing machine foot pedal to motor's power in line. That would make it a hands free sewing machine. Just a thought.
I bought one a few months ago. Once it's set up (the bobbin was a bit of a mystery for me) it works really well on any leather. For the price it can't be beat. So much better than hand stitching. Sure, a $1000 electric is better, but let's face it, most of us will only use this thing for a couple of projects a year and it does its job in spades.
Hah, the first thing I do is open the box trash the legs and base. The first thing I worked on was 11 torn up jeans, (otherwise trash) so it made my money back first week I owned it. Love these old-school things !!
The machine is awsome! When I got mine in November 2020 I had to file down every edge that the thread touches BOBBINS TOO!!! and oil the hell out of it. But once you get it tuned up you'll wonder why you hesitated on buying one. Especially at the price you find them on Amazon. There are different models and as far as I know they are all different in some way.
I got one in November 2020 as well. It cuts all of the thread I put through it other than fishing line. Thanks for the tip on how to fix that problem
pretty kool little machine for sure
noice dude, i can't wait to see you modify it with a bicycle chain and some gears welded to the handle to make it foot powered. never underestimate your "footing tools"! they had the right idea in the 1800s. keep em coming, i'll keep watching!
I was thinking about doing something similar with mine...
Damn you! Now I need to figure out how 🤔
Thanks!
I just finished my first leather project which was a 6 oz leather desk top. I used a 16.5” HD cylinder sewing machine that I bought. Way more power than I needed for the job but it soon became apparent that you need large off feed surfaces or 4 arms to manage the leather over the machine. Also the power required at times as I hand feed via the 12” flywheel was shocking.
I can’t imagine using a manual machine on anything but small handheld projects!
I hope this machine works for you!
I had similar experience setting mine up... Took some fiddling and swearing but eventually got it ticking along. It's definitely for patch work and tinkering. If you're looking to make quality goods, search for a used walking foot machine instead.
Howdy Folks,
Some folks on here have mentioned the treadle machine. I’m 74 and am blessed to have the Singer treadle that my grandmother taught me to sew on. It’s the long bobbin and I’ll fill 5 of them at the time. I’ve sewed leather, canvas, heavy webbing, and just about every thing on it at one time or another. I also have a Singer (non-electrical, hand-crank) portable. I use it for the real heavy stuff. They both work great, so cannot see purchasing another sewing machine.
CB
Any chance the “extra” tensioner is actually to apply proper tension for winding the bobbin? Just a thought.
Love your intrigue/curiosity so many things to explore and learn. Geek out! You do this well while helping our community
Thanks Dave.
The 2 tension knobs: first one, pull thread under bottom to top, loop behind tension spring, this is for thread tension. Second knob thread goes over top then down. This knob works to help bobbin and lower thread feed up. You should use same type thread ( heavy duty upholstery, waxed or nylon thread) for bobbin and feeder thread. You might want to use saddle soap on your leather first; makes leather more payable and easier for the needle to pierce, just suggestions to help. Enjoy your new toy.
P.s. I forgot to add; I learned a great simple shop/craft/sewing tip along time ago that is a great preventive of rust and helps any material your working with to slide or move on metal surfaces; i use turtle wax rubbing compound on all my tool table tops, sewing machine foot and plate; scissor, knife and axe blades (non food of course).
I saw that your not to use waxed thread ,will gum up
I have one of these had the same problems you had. I went to a local sewing store and bought needles with larger eyes for the thread I was using. I also had to play with the screw tension on the Bobbin Shuttle to get larger thread to work. I can sew 9oz leather now but the presser foot tears up the leather!! Looks like railroad tracks. I've been considering filing the raised area on the bottom of the presser foot smoother but I'm worried it may not feed if I do it. I make leather aprons and use Utility sides, I make some of the parts for the harnesses with this machine. The sides are only around 5oz and it works GREAT for that.
Ive seen a few people use Plasti-dip on the foot to solve the marking problem.
Good idea! I may try that! If it dosnt work I didn't ruin anything!!
Finally a workshop that resembles mine, cobwebs and all.
😂
Exposed studs are awesome for hanging things from too. Basement workshops are awesome in the summer too.
I always admire a guy that can get 10 lbs. Of stuff in a 5 lbs. Box!👍🏻
Late to the show here, but I am cringing looking at this workshop. The cob webs killed me, no vacuum for the dust! Like your energy but man I could not work in your shop.
@@captwaswank I constantly clean my shop but it's almost useless as I live in a desert environment with high winds that carry dust, and populated by long legged spiders who love to catch flies up high in the rafters.
Do you have a video that shows your sewing technique using this machine? I'm new to sewing. Thank you.
Nice video, I hope you do a part 2 after you get this refined!!
We will, thanks for watching!
The Singer I used working in shoe repair had a threading tool for that tube in the head.
A length of fine rod/wire, flattened & a notch in one end, a loop as a grip point the other. Thread lays over the notch, pinch to the shaft & turn as a friction fix. Push it thru, grab off end, retrieve & proceed.
Much easier than pushing thread thru that lenght of tube
I noticed that the bobbin with the thread wasn't wound consistently, maybe that contributed to the thread breakage. On my machine, if I get messed up stitches: rewinding the bobbin helps.
Thank you.
Have fun I have that model. My dad and I worked on sanding down parts that are rough on the machine because of the casting. By sanding down the metal it won’t cut the material or the thread on accident. I also bought leather thread and leather needles that don’t come with it. You’ll need wax leather thread is the best for leather making. Also sand the bobbin that holds the thread. I just used simple sandpaper made for metal. I’m still working on modifying mine some more.
I really like leather working,can’t wait to see this video!
Thanks CCO!
I have enjoyed watching everything you have ever done thanks for hours of enjoyment 😉
Thank you so much for that compliment. Hope we have many hours and years of content ahead!
I own this machine and I freaking love it . It’s amazing I didn’t need to do mods to it and honestly I didn’t take it apart either like others have , I did clean up all the oil but it works wonderful
Is it still holding up?
Where did you buy your machine?
Same here, I just wiped it down, oiled it and went to town making holsters for some Star Wars cosplayers, no issues, first 3 blaster holster paid for this machine and the materials, I love it.
Absolutely love how raw and rustic your man cave is.. as soon as i seen the cob webs when you were searching for wood i subbed lol
Great work i look forward to watching your previous and new vids..
Haha cheers Mattie!
I have one. That thread is the type needed for leather. One thing (ok - few things) I did was to smooth out the rough stuff in the necessary areas - where parts interact with each other. Another was to use high tech oil on all moving parts. Smooth running makes smooth stitching.
If you do biggish pieces, make a wide platform that fits around the arm. Much easier to sew when the whole piece is flat.
Clamping to bench makes a big difference. That big flywheel will move the machine also.
Overall - for random uses occasionally - these machines are pretty decent.
This is the most detailed and in depth vid I've seen. I bought one that looks like the exact knock I got but I'm having trouble getting mine to work caused by a sticking sliding arm.
No its not... but it is good.
keep looking there are some good, extremely detailed vids available on UA-cam. Have fun I love mine! Had it 2 months now and after filling and oiling everything and watching EVERY video for advice. It works like a champ no complaints.
Sand / file every surface the thread comes in contact with. Play with tension both top and bottom on scraps till tou get what you want.
Good luck have fun!
Thanks Allen! It's a tricky business for sure.
17:19 I used an engraver to put a permanent rotational arrow near where the bobbin goes in. Quick reference.
I just received this machine from Amazon, so glad I found your video. Look forward to watching it over and over tomorrow and get going. I am starting a clothing company and wanted something like this to sew patches to hats.
Have you had a chance to try it yet? How’d it go?
Definitely going to buy one ,I have a big fancy machine, however sometimes when I travel I dont like not having a machine
Do it!!! I love mine!
This thing is relatively compact but you'll want some sort of clamp to keep it from moving around on you if you choose to make your own base. The tripod it comes with was absolutely worthless and it does need a quick wood base with a clamp or a grip matt under it. It only has one stitch size but is very easy to learn and can stich in circles just by rotating the foot thingamabob.
If one has the ability to, i would say to make a wooden box type case, with latches at the base, that acts like an old typewriter or sewing machine box/case
I bought one a few years ago and then bought a surge motor for about 100$ and remade the main shaft and fit a pulley on the otherside of the hand crank and now mine is electric and made a steel stand, works great 👍
A thing of beauty is a joy forever.
It ain't no thing of beauty - trust me. Unless you completely rebuild it like that guy in the UK. THAT's a beauty.
As always, a great show of details. All that perseverance pays off. Enjoy your show & the background music. So when is the next back porch live black smiting ? Thank you for sharing. Stay safe mate. Greetings from Christmas Island.
I think the reason it is on a free stand and not a table base is to be able to sew shoes. You could just attach it overhanging a table.
I worked for the Reece Corp out of Waltham Mass.that made eyelet and keyhole buttonhole machines from 1880-1980 that worked on leather shoes and dress coats both spools of thread had be soaked in oil or silicones to work correctly. These were the fastest machines made for production work and much smoke was released while sewing from the hot oil thread.
For $100 you can’t beat it!!
Right?! Thanks for the inspiration.
Then I watched a video about motorizing the machine. Now I can’t remember what channel it was on. It seems like to motorize it was less than $50 with Amazon parts. A sewing machine motor with foot feet, a bracket from an electrical box and a pulley. The pulley attached via the electrical bracket and the sewing machine motor already had a pulley. The one caveat was that to get the motor to turn in the right direction you had to put a twist in the belt. The belt was made from weed wicker tubing. Cut to length and melted together to form a belt. Pretty neat and it worked great.
@@brucewrandol that’s me! That videos on my channel.
@@MakeEverything lol!
@@MakeEverything Why so it is; I actually watched that video before this one.
Bet if it was not too much trouble to disassemble all the moving parts and you polished them with a bench grinder buffing wheel and rouge it would be smooth as butter.