Also, I bet that was the issue...i bet the motor has been flooding this whole time and thats why its been running intermittently. Get yourself a carb rebuild for both carbs and do it right.
the vacuum from the carb just allows fuel to flow through the petcock when its running. When the engine is not running, fuel will stop flowing to the carbs. Basically, its an auto "off" switch so your engine doesn't flood if your needle valve in the carb bowl fails. It has nothing to do with your dying issue as long as the petcock is not installed. Now, if you did not plug the vent line that is coming out of the carb, now you can have an air leak which would cause a very lean running motor. This could cause a lot of issues once the engine gets hot including pre detonation and a whole slew of issues, plus it would make it run like crap most of the time. Have you checked spark on both cylinders when the failure has occurred? It could be an intermittent coil failure and is very common in old coils.
sorry bud, i think its either electrical or flooding. like i said, get some rebuild kits for those carbs and do em right and if you still have your issue, move along to spark and make sure to check immediately after the failure occurs. Also you could have spark but not enough depending on the type of failure.
If you were closer id gladly help you, you could message me. When it cuts out first thing i would do is unscrew the bowl drain and see if fuel is coming out. If you are getting fuel into the bowl, fuel delivery is not the problem. You can also check for spark when it quits, sometimes a cdi or coil going bad will stop working when it gets hot. Also if you plugged a vacuum line from the carb it could be creating a vacuum in the bowl not letting fuel through the jet.
Good job! The floats inside the bowls on the carbs get stuck if there is shit in them, you should drop off the bowls and give it a good clean out, and while your there make sure the needle valve is free and the point looks fine . . . Also check your oil to make sure no petrol has leaked past the rings into the crank case, if there is, change your oil . . . The vacuum petcock is like a fail safe, if the engine is not turning over, the fuel won't flow. I owned a GSX 500 for some time which I rebuilt so any questions just hit me up ;-)
Great project. As someone that has worked on and built many motorcycles I may be able to offer some help. Motorcycles with carburetors have a fuel petcock so you can turn off the fuel when it's not running to avoid flooding the cylinder with fuel. Some petcocks require a vacuum line, this is so fuel won't flow without vacuum from the engine running in case you forget to turn off the petcock. Some motorcycles have these separate from the petcock, called a fuel autovalve. In this case the petcock itself doesn't require a vacuum line. You could replace the petcock with a simpler one without a vacuum line, just be sure to cap off the vacuum ports and turn off the petcock when you aren't running the engine. The petcock missing isn't your problem with it not running well. It would have stopped your cylinder being flooded with fuel but that's it. You should be careful trying to start the engine with fuel in the cylinder as it can bend your valves. You likely have a lot of fuel in your oil as well. If you install the petcock be sure to have a screen or filter before it, the flat rubber ring in the valve can leak if anything gets in there. Usually they have a tube that goes up (this is for the fuel reserve) with a screen at the top. I have some ideas about it dying after a short time, usually this is from the fuel system not venting. You vented the tank but you should also check any other vent tubes coming off the carburetor (sometimes run to the airbox). I've seen them full of crap causing the same issues you are seeing. I also suspect the wiring to the coils that you extended could be a problem since the wire is likely too small and would get hot over time causing resistance and less spark. I've seen this cause the same problems you are seeing as well. I hope this helps!
it's the ignition system bud. the petcock is there only to allow fuel to flow when there is suction applied to the petcock, a 2 way shutoff if you will. it will make your life easier when taking carbs off for cleaning but is not necessary for running of engine. your cdi is overheating. replace those and your ignition leads and new plugs you mentioned and it sounds like you'll have a solid motor there bud. hope your see this.
Have you checked the carb bowls when it dies? It could be running out of gas and when it sits for 10 or 15 minutes, the gas runs back into the carb. I had this issue with a stopped up fuel line on a riding mower.
No one is born a mechanic, we all learned through trial and error. Keep at it.. Most of all walk away or take a breather when frustrated and do some research. You got this
Don’t get frustrated, you’re getting there. Those valve shims definitely made it smoother, regardless if they weren’t the issue anyway. Like said below, I’d run it until it shuts off then empty the bowl to see if it has fuel. If so, it’s probably not a fuel issue. Next, I’d look at spark. If there’s no spark, check for voltage coming from the coils. If there’s no power from them, check for power to them. Personally I think the coils might be heating up and killing the spark. Best of luck man.
The carbs need attention, but that's only part of the issue. It really seems like an ignition problem. Others have mentioned the coils, and I'm inclined to agree with that. I have a snowblower that acted just like this. Starts up, runs great for about ten minutes, then mysteriously shuts off. Wait a while, it fires back up, runs a bit, shuts off. The coil was crap. Obviously that's not exactly the same setup as a motorcycle but the principle is the same if the coil is breaking down. The petcock shouldn't matter in this arrangement. Won't hurt, but shouldn't affect the performance, and adding it won't fix your current problems.
Grant Mikosz he has a nightmare mess of spaghetti wiring on the side of the frame. It could be the problem, but it still seems to be a carb issue. Not running a fuel filter doesn't help. I would straighten that wiring and get kits for the carbs
Absolutely agree, but it's weird how it's almost predictable. If it were purely wiring related (something shorting out intermittently), you'd think it wouldn't be as predictable or somehow "fix" itself after it sits for awhile. I'm leaning toward the coil because I had one that did a similar thing, and I recently had a car with a CDI box that acted in a similar fashion when it got hot (rough running, misfiring, and shutting off), but it only did it for a short time before completely failing. Now that you mention it, I didn't see a fuel filter either, so that's a red flag that I didn't pick up on. The carbs are definitely a mess, especially with puking fuel and hydrolocking it that badly. He just needs to sort out one issue at a time.
I don't know much about the engine on that thing but it's pretty cool I been watching for a short while now from the lathe to the mini bike and the small engine stuff. Only thing I can tell you is a rule of thumb air, fuel, and fire. Just as basics check those. Seems like you need some sort of metering or check valve between the tank and the carbs so your not flooding it. You'll find that grimlin soon though.
Is the exhaust stock? Not enough back pressure can cause issues with scavenging, change the oil it’s more than likely super thin and contaminated from the gas. And if you have timing control I would check if the advance is working properly and or the springs on the advance are there. Vented cap could be an issue as well
Sounds to me like it might be vapor locking... try putting a small hole in the gas cap or after it dies take the gas cap off for a few seconds then put it back on and see if she will fire up. Also I would put a inline fuel filter on the fuel line so you stop getting dirt in the fuel bowls. also check the oil to make sure there is no gas in It, a good way to test is to pull the dip stick out and use a lighter to try to light the oil on the end of the dip stick on fire, if it lights it has gas in It if not your oil if fine..... Also the engine could be loosing compression after it warms up I would buy a cheap compression tester a harbor freight or auto zone for about $30 or AutoZone rents them for free with a deposit, just look up what the stock compression range Is cold and hot, probably 130-150psi, some engines require that you hold the throttle wide open when you check for more air flow, should be quick and easy to check after it dies just bring a plug wrench with you. I would also try spraying carb spray or starting fluid around the front side of the carbs while it's running to see if it surges or revs up, if it does you have a air or vacuum leak which would make it run horrible. One more thing I would do is get some inline spark testers and put them on while you drive it so that you can see if your loosing spark, they sell some at harbor freight for under 10$ a piece.... Sorry this comment is so long but I hope it helps if you have any questions or need more help trouble shooting let me know.
Probably wouldn't hurt to get some new needle valves or a complete carb kit. Also I know you said there was some dirt in the carb and that's why the engine hydro locked and was leaking but it could be vapor locking like I said causing the fuel tank to pressurize and shove fuel past the float needle. Don't forget the fuel filter.
Look who it is? Its the legend that is Mustie1, I thought the same regarding the gas cap, anyone who has forgotten to open the air bleeder screw on an outboard fuel tank will know that head scratching problem lol. Coils can stop working as they warm up inside. ❤️ Hopefully you have it all fixed now, I'm going to use the power of time travel & see if there is a video of you fixing it and what the problem was. ❤️
i had an 83 caprice that would do the same thing, after it got hot it would not start. 10 to 15 mins later fired right up. ended up having to change the ICM and coil, problem went away.
The vacuum line on that petcock is just for shutting off the gas flow automatically when the motor is stopped. It keeps you from having to manually shut the fuel off after you stop the bike. Make sure your gas tank is vented, put a fuel filter on it, make sure your bowls are full of fuel when it starts dying. Does this cart have fuses? I had a bike one time that the fuse would pull back from the ends causing it to die...then when the fuse cooled, the ends would touch and it would run again...I doubt that is your problem though.
Nice work bro I’d change the oil tho it might be full of fuel now you don’t want that explosion and you have found the issue it’s flooding you should get a kit for the carbi’s and clean them. The fuel tap regulates the flow of fuel so it can’t over come the fuel float when the bowls are full. Keep up the work
Hi I'm a mechanic by trade, and i would suggest doing a compression test with the engine in a running condition and compare it to a compression test in the no start condition, i think you may still have a valve issue, where the thermal expansion of the engine is causing your valves to leak and thus lose compression creating a no start condition. It could also be a fuel supply issue, but i would try the the compression test first. Good luck, cool project.
I kept thinking it was too small of a valve stem-to-guide clearance. I heard absolutely no valve tap, as is normal in such an engine. Have you adjusted the valve clearance to be a little larger in clearance? That would cause it to run less and less until it just stops, if it was too little clearance.
buy some yamaha raptor 660 carburetors. I have a 86 gs550 that ran like crap threw my 04 raptor carburetors on for shits and giggles and the bike ran great! it's worth a shot and you can pick up a pair for about 100$ on eBay. best of luck getting the buggy running bud
Read this before you do any thing else!! Add a vent to your gas cap!! If you don't have a vent on your gas cap a vacuum will build up in the gas tank and stop your fuel flow. Once the bike sits for a few minutes the vacuum will settle and you may get fuel supply again. A lot of older ATVs have an On/Off on the cap and if you leave Off they will only run for a few minutes (same problem you are having). Another problem with no vent is that it will cause pressure to build up (EG: Left in the sun or in a hot place.). The pressure build up can cause gas to pour in when you don't want it. The float bowl needle valves are not designed for much pressure. Drill a hole in the cap to test. I recommend welding a tube on your cap like your dirt bike has. There's more to gas caps than you would think.
The petcock is important, running without it on those carbs is running it in the prime position which will flood the carbs. This will be especially true if they are not 100% clean (and I mean 100%). Change the oil at least a couple times, it has gas in it without a doubt.
Petcock just means it's a part of or directly connected to the tank or whatnot, usually at a low drain pount. A radiator has a petcock for draining it. The vacuum line opens and closes the valve (or petcock) so it doesn't do what it did to you and flood the engine. You may also look into a fuel pump, my single carbureted Kawasaki has the same vacuum operated petcock without a fuel pump while my quad carbureted Honda doesn't have the vacuum petcock but does have a fuel pump.
Don't pump the throttle when the engine is warm. Just press the pedal a little. Pumping fills the hot cylinders with petrol which then evaporates creating pressure agains the starter motor. It also fills the cylinders with petrol quicker that just pressing it a little bit.
I've mentioned this to him many times before, that bike engine has REGULAR CV carbs, no accelerator pumps, so pumping does NOTHING but make him look goofy, it does not send a shot of gas thru every time you depress the throttle, it does nothing
I would say there is a good chance that the problem is you fuel line system. I own a GS500e and that is a not just a fuel shutoff valve. It is a vacuum petcock. It pulls the correct amount of fuel to the carbs based off of the vacuum from the engine. I dealt with a similar problem with my GS500. Since you haven't been using it fuel has been pouring straight into the carbs unchecked and your engine is probably flooding out after you run it for a bit. Also, if you don't have the vacuum petcock and the fuel is on it will eventually pour into the cylinders and airbox if the needle valve gets clogged. Install the petcock and make sure the proper fuel lines and vacuum line are hooked up to the proper places on the carbs, tank, and petcock with your diagram and that might just fix your problem. Also make sure the vacuum line has a good seal and is not leaking because that was the root of my problems. Good luck!
I agree with ignition problem next time it dies pull a plug and check for spark . if you have good spark shoot a little ether in the carb it should fire
Is your tank vented properly? Sounds like it's getting an air lock in the tank. Run it and when it stalls open the gas tank and see if there is a vacuum. The petcock stops the carbs from flooding, only let's fuel flow to the carbs when there is a vacuum signal from the carbs
you should also check the float height of the carburetor chambers and make sure the carburetors are synchronous. maybe I missed that part: but do have installed the choke? it is a real mess to start a gs500e suzuki engine without it. and it is normal after it runs you have to pull back the choke a little. and a little more if the rotation speed is getting above 1500 rotations per minute. and if the engine is warm you might push it complete in otherwise you might get also troubles getting to speed. did you install the carburetor floating chamber flipped? it is much easier to access the screws at the bottom for checking the float height of the carburetor float chambers if these are at the outside. another problem might be that you installed the engine with an slight angle to the driver seat. so the carburetor chambers are a bit higher. normally in the frame of a suzuki gs500e the carburetor float chambers are fully horizontal. I am going to watch the behind the scenes video now. I just found your channel today because I was searching for gs500e videos, because I am helping a friend to get their engine back to life. and the fuel cock and all the fuel pipes where driving me crazy. at least you have much more space in the buggy frame to access all the parts.
Your idle jet could be dirty/clogged, try pushing a paperclip or a wire from a wire brush through all the holes in your carbs and make sure to give them a super spray down internally and externally with some carb cleaner (like two cans of the stuff) and go through them and make sure nothings loose. It could possibly be the stator inside the motor, other than that I'd say check the engine's timing, should be dots or some sort of markings on the chains and overhead cam sprockets to let you know but it shouldn't be out of time. If possible somehow choke the fuel line so it doesn't feed so fast.
There's a few possibilites. The backfire sounds seem like a timing issue. I'd say definitely check the timing, it doesn't seem like it is overflowing with gas. Also take the carbs and clean them very well.
My DRZ Mikuni CV carb exhibits the same behavior with the vacum line is not connected. Hard to start, pops, dies, doesn't run that well overall. Just a thought if you haven't figured it out yet but the petcock usually have a third nipple that goes to the carb and from the carb to the crankcase with is what creates the lift for the carb, In your case you probably only have one line from the carb to the motor if you don't use a petcock valve.
I think it runs to rich, and so when you waited at the stopsign, some petrol could evapporate making it able to run again, tuning the carbs is key with motorcycle engines, also rev it up higher, the engine has its power in a higher rpm making it pull beter. Hope this helps, greatings from the Netherlands
I don't know if anyone already commented this. But, since it is flooding you need to stop pumping the gas pedal when trying to restart it. That will cause it to flood worse. The best thing to do is to press the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there. That will clear the cylinder out and help it restart.
i had the same problem once and most engines are the same. the thing you did with the valves? well put again the ones it had and after you reversed what you did check the clearance on the rockers ( what you toched was the cam shaft not a valve, a valve looks more like the down half of a wine glass), also get a gas filter or dust will get to the carb and if it gets to the cilinder it will ruin the piston and posibly the cilinder itself hope this is usefull, good luck!
Spay something flammable (aerosol can) at the outside of the manifold, carb, and head gasket to test for vacuum leaks, if the rpm raises where you spray you possibly have a leak Looks like the engine is tilted more than a bike ... Lower the float bowls a bit Try compression test while it won't run Hope this helps good luck
better to be a little on the high side than the low side as the valves wear into the seat the clearance shrink. Also, rotate the engine a few times after the new shims are in and recheck the clearances. U would be surprised at how many times it changes after everything is seated.
check compression, after engine is not wanting to restart.also if you had that much fuel in the cylinder check your oil it may be diluted and not lubricating properly.also check regulator, and stator. cdi's and coils are weird they can overheat and not work at running rpm's until cooled off, that may be the popping and misfiring condition.hope this helps.
Motorcycles have an fuel cut off manual switch under the fuel tanks, to keep the fuel to keep running into the engine, if the carb floats don't work & put a fuel filter on it as well. Try new coils or go EFI and make sure the starter is working as a generator too., so that the battery will not keep dying and use a bigger battery.
You need to stop letting it stall...keep it reving when you push the clutch in then at least you will be able to tell if its flooding when you let off or if it will die no matter what when 2 minutes comes...that will tell you right away if it spark or carb...sounds like its flooding out...also when you crank it over dont pump the throttle just hold it to the floor...you only need to pump if you have a carb with an accelerator pump (which you dont) and its cold or lean when starting...good luck man...love it
Are you sure you have a vented fuel tank? I ask because it sounds like it doesn't have a large enough vent to keep up with the fuel demand and it stops from running lean towards the end. Try opening the tank cap and see how it runs. Just a suggestion.
rickburnout666 I was stupid I tried drilli g a jet myself with a random bit I stuck it in a bike J had it would run . It would run great and it was faster but after the thing would run for a few minutes it would die and then it would take like 10 min to fire back up
Rhead_neck nick i use mig welding nozzle cleaners to upjet if i cant get the perfect size jet size does the job ok with a bit of trial and error to get the bike going well after I adapt the filter and zorst
SwarleyAUS lol id there was no jets it probably wouldn't run. The filter is going to draw more air than when it's on the bike as there is no tank over it to slow the flow and with the exhaust thats used and airbox as it is it would need rejetting. But i aint sure if the engine is sitting at the same angle as when it was in the bike the floats may cut the gas off or flood the engine my old gs500 run like a sack of shit when I put pod filters and gutted exhaust, but run perfect after rejetting
Use a vacuum gauge to adjust and balance the carb idle, if it has the same compression on each cylinder, it should have the same vacuum for each carb. Could be floats hanging up too Or just bad seat valves or needles in the air fuel mixture.
The only reason I started watching one of your videos was because you look a lot like my brother, he has a Twitch account it's AmericanRiot if you wanted to judge for yourself. Anyway, I watch a bunch of them now, you've got some awesome videos, keep up the good work I enjoy them.
you need to check your compression cold. and check it again after it quits on you.if you got less than 90 lbs hot you need to hone your cylinders and get new rings on it. I have had motors do the same thing.
Install the pedcock, it will stop flooding when the engine is off but won't fix the running problems. Check the carb float hights and possibly carb rebuild kit
You don't have to drive it to see if it's fixed. Set it up on stands or blocks and run it through the gears and see what happens at the shop. If it is heat, gas or even spark, it will happen sitting there instead of on the street. That way you can stop pushing it home, and you can test things the minute it stops. I would like to know the cold compression and when it stops what that compression is. You could still have spark, fuel and air, but if there is a lack of compression issue, all bets are off. JMHO
you need to change the exhaust system back to how it was on the bike 2 header pipes into in on main pipe and run it out the back of the buggy and up with the stock muffler. the fuel and exhaust systems are designed and balanced to each other if you change one you have to change the other. dual straight pipes or zoomie type exhausts are only good for wide open or steady stead rpms like idle. look at a funny car idle or wide open. yes put the fuel tap back in the system also. also you need to synchronize your carbs balance them so the both let in the same about of air flow that will also help with your idle and dying coming up to a stop.
Your having an issue with coils. After it started back up the second time the engine sounded like it was running on one cylinder. You can tell it had a pretty bad misfire.. After the engine flooding the way it did you should have checked the oil. Most likely fuel got through the piston rings and into the crank. Don't give up on it. It looks awesome and fun to drive around. I wish I could afford to have one.
i still think it is a pick up coil problem showing the exact same symptoms of a vn1500 i was working on checked pick up coils cold they had correct reading when checked just after engine cut out found one of the pick ups read infinity meaning a break in the winding
David Simpson I agree. I've commented the same thing on the last 3 vids. he hasn't checked it out yet. I recommended checking it cold letting it run until it dies and immediately checking them again. hopefully he will.
Sounds like a vacuum leak in your intake boots. Check them for cracks. And your floats are adjusted wrong. Remember to change the oil before running it. Your oil is probably full of gas now. I also told you about the vacuum fuel pump in the petcock back when you first started working on this. An inline electric fuel pump at 3psi would be easier to install. If you use the petcock, make sure you check the vacuum diaphragm to make sure it's not dried out and cracked or the fuel filter is clogged. Or you'll have the same problems.
you could use electric fuel pump from a lawnmower. also a petcock so you can shut the fuel off also, a see-through filter would help you out a great deal. there cheap to replace and it would Save on expensive fixes like a new carburetor, carb rebuild kit or having to clean the carbs religiously to keep the dirt and grime out and if you can't see through the filter anymore just buy a new one
I removed that vacc line from the petcock and put a vac line nub over the vac line insert on the carb it worked a treat. Ensure you tank isn't building up pressure aswell.
I had the same problem with one of my old four wheelers, it’s the battery, since you don’t have a charging system for it, the battery goes dead and then the engine can’t produce enough spark to run by just the coil
Chack for crack in the block of the tow pestens. Beacuse if there is a crack in the block after tow minets runing the block expends and it start leacking compretion and the engine stops. Chack the coile or replace with a new one becuse if there is a wire cut in the coile after 2 menets it start expand and it stop the curent to the plug this things is crazey but some times it hepends. Hope that you find the problem good luck.
You have to rev it up to about 3000 4000rpm because the engine is designed to push less weight. The idle should be fine but it sounds like electrical issue to me
The 15 minutes of it runing it warms up so when it gets warm it dies so to me it sounds like rings are bad has good compression tell they get warm then they arent as tight as what they should be or it could be headgaskets
it is just a feul tap will make no difference to how it runs it just allows fuel to flow every time the number one cylinder is on the intake stroke and stops fuel flow when not running so stop any fuel leaks as alot of people forgot to turn on or off the manual ones
The vacuum line won't be the solution to your problem, the fuel petcock has a vacuum shutoff. When the engine turns over it pulls vacuum on that line and opens up the valve fully to let fuel flow to the carbs. With your direct connection the carbs are already getting full fuel. The shutting off after a few minutes, and the battery dying are from the same problem. The charging system has an issue. Either the rectifier and/or regulator are bad, or the stator is shorting when it heats up. Adding the shutoff would still be a good idea, since it can help if things get plugged or stuck in the carbs, but you're going to need to do some electrical work to get that thing going properly. Edit: It could also be the ignition module itself, they can cause that sort of behavior, but with the battery dying while it should have been charging during the drive, I'm still thinking charging system.
you have an air cooled engine with no air flow over it. Put a fan on it or air ducts around the set. That's why it takes 10 min. for it to cool and restart. It will idle all day. but making power makes more heat. The vac. line on the valve is to cut fuel when the engine is off so you don't fill the carbs and flood the engine.
It’s probably the ignition coil or cdi, also you should put a fuel filter and shutoff on it so that you don’t have to clean the carbs and so that you don’t have to worry about it leaking gas when you shut it off.
All that vaccum line does is makes the fuel shut off if the engine quits...it uses a vacuum diaphram to pull open the petcock when its running...pure safety and you dont need it...it wont change a thing...I am a motorcycle mechanic...
Check the float level...can almost guarantee the motor isn't sitting at the same angle as on the bike which will throw the float level off...I had to deal with that on my shifter kart
Also, I bet that was the issue...i bet the motor has been flooding this whole time and thats why its been running intermittently. Get yourself a carb rebuild for both carbs and do it right.
and he keeps pumping the gas while it's flooding, wow
the vacuum from the carb just allows fuel to flow through the petcock when its running. When the engine is not running, fuel will stop flowing to the carbs. Basically, its an auto "off" switch so your engine doesn't flood if your needle valve in the carb bowl fails. It has nothing to do with your dying issue as long as the petcock is not installed. Now, if you did not plug the vent line that is coming out of the carb, now you can have an air leak which would cause a very lean running motor. This could cause a lot of issues once the engine gets hot including pre detonation and a whole slew of issues, plus it would make it run like crap most of the time. Have you checked spark on both cylinders when the failure has occurred? It could be an intermittent coil failure and is very common in old coils.
dang, i was hoping that installing the petcock was going to solve all of the problems.
sorry bud, i think its either electrical or flooding. like i said, get some rebuild kits for those carbs and do em right and if you still have your issue, move along to spark and make sure to check immediately after the failure occurs. Also you could have spark but not enough depending on the type of failure.
You've said exactly what I was going to comment......
2wheelLove
Yes and I have seen plugs not sparking under compression but OK when out of engine!
This could cause a lot of ME: replies
If you were closer id gladly help you, you could message me. When it cuts out first thing i would do is unscrew the bowl drain and see if fuel is coming out. If you are getting fuel into the bowl, fuel delivery is not the problem. You can also check for spark when it quits, sometimes a cdi or coil going bad will stop working when it gets hot. Also if you plugged a vacuum line from the carb it could be creating a vacuum in the bowl not letting fuel through the jet.
Dat you tube Channel, with a tank that big and being higher than the carburetors it should have plenty of flow. Providing his cap is vented.
FireAndGasoline ayyyyeeee I'm subscribed
Jared Musick thank you!
FireAndGasoline เสับะ
Dat you tube Channel or it could be getting to much fuel that is what would happen to my atv if it got to much fuel
Hope you checked the oil after filling the cylinder with gas.
Ed Wolfram ya no kidding I did that to my lawn mower and changed the oil it came out like water lmao #gasinmyoil
Good job! The floats inside the bowls on the carbs get stuck if there is shit in them, you should drop off the bowls and give it a good clean out, and while your there make sure the needle valve is free and the point looks fine . . . Also check your oil to make sure no petrol has leaked past the rings into the crank case, if there is, change your oil . . . The vacuum petcock is like a fail safe, if the engine is not turning over, the fuel won't flow. I owned a GSX 500 for some time which I rebuilt so any questions just hit me up ;-)
Great project. As someone that has worked on and built many motorcycles I may be able to offer some help.
Motorcycles with carburetors have a fuel petcock so you can turn off the fuel when it's not running to avoid flooding the cylinder with fuel. Some petcocks require a vacuum line, this is so fuel won't flow without vacuum from the engine running in case you forget to turn off the petcock. Some motorcycles have these separate from the petcock, called a fuel autovalve. In this case the petcock itself doesn't require a vacuum line. You could replace the petcock with a simpler one without a vacuum line, just be sure to cap off the vacuum ports and turn off the petcock when you aren't running the engine.
The petcock missing isn't your problem with it not running well. It would have stopped your cylinder being flooded with fuel but that's it. You should be careful trying to start the engine with fuel in the cylinder as it can bend your valves. You likely have a lot of fuel in your oil as well. If you install the petcock be sure to have a screen or filter before it, the flat rubber ring in the valve can leak if anything gets in there. Usually they have a tube that goes up (this is for the fuel reserve) with a screen at the top.
I have some ideas about it dying after a short time, usually this is from the fuel system not venting. You vented the tank but you should also check any other vent tubes coming off the carburetor (sometimes run to the airbox). I've seen them full of crap causing the same issues you are seeing. I also suspect the wiring to the coils that you extended could be a problem since the wire is likely too small and would get hot over time causing resistance and less spark. I've seen this cause the same problems you are seeing as well. I hope this helps!
Put a fuel filter back on, it's the crud from the none coated gas tank causing the carb issues
I can ask you to send a bill darkorbkttbebo@gmail.com
it's the ignition system bud. the petcock is there only to allow fuel to flow when there is suction applied to the petcock, a 2 way shutoff if you will. it will make your life easier when taking carbs off for cleaning but is not necessary for running of engine. your cdi is overheating. replace those and your ignition leads and new plugs you mentioned and it sounds like you'll have a solid motor there bud. hope your see this.
Jarrad Powell ^
Nice, what kind of cameras did you get ? the one on your head and the bumper ?
I think the coil is going bad it gets hot then it gets a week spark
15:45 the view that gives the camera on the tube is great greetings friend from Mexico
Have you checked the carb bowls when it dies? It could be running out of gas and when it sits for 10 or 15 minutes, the gas runs back into the carb. I had this issue with a stopped up fuel line on a riding mower.
No one is born a mechanic, we all learned through trial and error. Keep at it.. Most of all walk away or take a breather when frustrated and do some research. You got this
Great video. You could set up a camera arm off the back of the rollcage. I think it might be a cool angle for the next driving video.
Don’t get frustrated, you’re getting there. Those valve shims definitely made it smoother, regardless if they weren’t the issue anyway.
Like said below, I’d run it until it shuts off then empty the bowl to see if it has fuel. If so, it’s probably not a fuel issue. Next, I’d look at spark. If there’s no spark, check for voltage coming from the coils. If there’s no power from them, check for power to them. Personally I think the coils might be heating up and killing the spark. Best of luck man.
The carbs need attention, but that's only part of the issue.
It really seems like an ignition problem. Others have mentioned the coils, and I'm inclined to agree with that. I have a snowblower that acted just like this. Starts up, runs great for about ten minutes, then mysteriously shuts off. Wait a while, it fires back up, runs a bit, shuts off. The coil was crap. Obviously that's not exactly the same setup as a motorcycle but the principle is the same if the coil is breaking down. The petcock shouldn't matter in this arrangement. Won't hurt, but shouldn't affect the performance, and adding it won't fix your current problems.
Grant Mikosz he has a nightmare mess of spaghetti wiring on the side of the frame. It could be the problem, but it still seems to be a carb issue. Not running a fuel filter doesn't help. I would straighten that wiring and get kits for the carbs
Absolutely agree, but it's weird how it's almost predictable. If it were purely wiring related (something shorting out intermittently), you'd think it wouldn't be as predictable or somehow "fix" itself after it sits for awhile. I'm leaning toward the coil because I had one that did a similar thing, and I recently had a car with a CDI box that acted in a similar fashion when it got hot (rough running, misfiring, and shutting off), but it only did it for a short time before completely failing. Now that you mention it, I didn't see a fuel filter either, so that's a red flag that I didn't pick up on. The carbs are definitely a mess, especially with puking fuel and hydrolocking it that badly. He just needs to sort out one issue at a time.
It does sound like a bad coil
I don't know much about the engine on that thing but it's pretty cool I been watching for a short while now from the lathe to the mini bike and the small engine stuff. Only thing I can tell you is a rule of thumb air, fuel, and fire. Just as basics check those. Seems like you need some sort of metering or check valve between the tank and the carbs so your not flooding it. You'll find that grimlin soon though.
Love the homemade builds there awesome I hope to be as good as you are one day keep up the good work
Is the exhaust stock? Not enough back pressure can cause issues with scavenging, change the oil it’s more than likely super thin and contaminated from the gas. And if you have timing control I would check if the advance is working properly and or the springs on the advance are there. Vented cap could be an issue as well
Sounds like a bad coil to me. Coil heats up then stops producing correct spark then you let it cool down and it restarts.
im loving this video series, im learning a lot, even if the problem isnt fixed yet.
Sounds to me like it might be vapor locking... try putting a small hole in the gas cap or after it dies take the gas cap off for a few seconds then put it back on and see if she will fire up. Also I would put a inline fuel filter on the fuel line so you stop getting dirt in the fuel bowls. also check the oil to make sure there is no gas in It, a good way to test is to pull the dip stick out and use a lighter to try to light the oil on the end of the dip stick on fire, if it lights it has gas in It if not your oil if fine..... Also the engine could be loosing compression after it warms up I would buy a cheap compression tester a harbor freight or auto zone for about $30 or AutoZone rents them for free with a deposit, just look up what the stock compression range Is cold and hot, probably 130-150psi, some engines require that you hold the throttle wide open when you check for more air flow, should be quick and easy to check after it dies just bring a plug wrench with you. I would also try spraying carb spray or starting fluid around the front side of the carbs while it's running to see if it surges or revs up, if it does you have a air or vacuum leak which would make it run horrible. One more thing I would do is get some inline spark testers and put them on while you drive it so that you can see if your loosing spark, they sell some at harbor freight for under 10$ a piece.... Sorry this comment is so long but I hope it helps if you have any questions or need more help trouble shooting let me know.
Probably wouldn't hurt to get some new needle valves or a complete carb kit. Also I know you said there was some dirt in the carb and that's why the engine hydro locked and was leaking but it could be vapor locking like I said causing the fuel tank to pressurize and shove fuel past the float needle. Don't forget the fuel filter.
have you tried to run it with the gas cap off yet ?
+Mustie1 I have not tried running it with the gas cap off, but I did drill a 1/8 inch hole in the gas cap so it is vented
Look who it is? Its the legend that is Mustie1, I thought the same regarding the gas cap, anyone who has forgotten to open the air bleeder screw on an outboard fuel tank will know that head scratching problem lol.
Coils can stop working as they warm up inside. ❤️
Hopefully you have it all fixed now, I'm going to use the power of time travel & see if there is a video of you fixing it and what the problem was. ❤️
i had an 83 caprice that would do the same thing, after it got hot it would not start. 10 to 15 mins later fired right up. ended up having to change the ICM and coil, problem went away.
The vacuum line on that petcock is just for shutting off the gas flow automatically when the motor is stopped. It keeps you from having to manually shut the fuel off after you stop the bike. Make sure your gas tank is vented, put a fuel filter on it, make sure your bowls are full of fuel when it starts dying. Does this cart have fuses? I had a bike one time that the fuse would pull back from the ends causing it to die...then when the fuse cooled, the ends would touch and it would run again...I doubt that is your problem though.
As silly as it sounds, the actual technical term is in fact "Petcock". Great work so far. 👍
My similar issues with carbureted motorcycles has usually been, plugged pilot jets. A full carb rebuild wouldn't be a bad idea either.
Nice work bro I’d change the oil tho it might be full of fuel now you don’t want that explosion and you have found the issue it’s flooding you should get a kit for the carbi’s and clean them. The fuel tap regulates the flow of fuel so it can’t over come the fuel float when the bowls are full. Keep up the work
Hi I'm a mechanic by trade, and i would suggest doing a compression test with the engine in a running condition and compare it to a compression test in the no start condition, i think you may still have a valve issue, where the thermal expansion of the engine is causing your valves to leak and thus lose compression creating a no start condition. It could also be a fuel supply issue, but i would try the the compression test first. Good luck, cool project.
check if its a gas issue or something others by checking the plugs after the engine dies , if the plugs are not wet , they don't get fuel to burn
I kept thinking it was too small of a valve stem-to-guide clearance. I heard absolutely no valve tap, as is normal in such an engine. Have you adjusted the valve clearance to be a little larger in clearance? That would cause it to run less and less until it just stops, if it was too little clearance.
Better check the oil. I bet there's quite a bit of gas in it.
buy some yamaha raptor 660 carburetors. I have a 86 gs550 that ran like crap threw my 04 raptor carburetors on for shits and giggles and the bike ran great! it's worth a shot and you can pick up a pair for about 100$ on eBay. best of luck getting the buggy running bud
Read this before you do any thing else!! Add a vent to your gas cap!! If you don't have a vent on your gas cap a vacuum will build up in the gas tank and stop your fuel flow. Once the bike sits for a few minutes the vacuum will settle and you may get fuel supply again. A lot of older ATVs have an On/Off on the cap and if you leave Off they will only run for a few minutes (same problem you are having). Another problem with no vent is that it will cause pressure to build up (EG: Left in the sun or in a hot place.). The pressure build up can cause gas to pour in when you don't want it. The float bowl needle valves are not designed for much pressure. Drill a hole in the cap to test. I recommend welding a tube on your cap like your dirt bike has. There's more to gas caps than you would think.
The petcock is important, running without it on those carbs is running it in the prime position which will flood the carbs. This will be especially true if they are not 100% clean (and I mean 100%). Change the oil at least a couple times, it has gas in it without a doubt.
Petcock just means it's a part of or directly connected to the tank or whatnot, usually at a low drain pount. A radiator has a petcock for draining it. The vacuum line opens and closes the valve (or petcock) so it doesn't do what it did to you and flood the engine. You may also look into a fuel pump, my single carbureted Kawasaki has the same vacuum operated petcock without a fuel pump while my quad carbureted Honda doesn't have the vacuum petcock but does have a fuel pump.
Don't pump the throttle when the engine is warm. Just press the pedal a little. Pumping fills the hot cylinders with petrol which then evaporates creating pressure agains the starter motor. It also fills the cylinders with petrol quicker that just pressing it a little bit.
I've mentioned this to him many times before, that bike engine has REGULAR CV carbs, no accelerator pumps, so pumping does NOTHING but make him look goofy, it does not send a shot of gas thru every time you depress the throttle, it does nothing
I would say there is a good chance that the problem is you fuel line system. I own a GS500e and that is a not just a fuel shutoff valve. It is a vacuum petcock. It pulls the correct amount of fuel to the carbs based off of the vacuum from the engine. I dealt with a similar problem with my GS500. Since you haven't been using it fuel has been pouring straight into the carbs unchecked and your engine is probably flooding out after you run it for a bit. Also, if you don't have the vacuum petcock and the fuel is on it will eventually pour into the cylinders and airbox if the needle valve gets clogged. Install the petcock and make sure the proper fuel lines and vacuum line are hooked up to the proper places on the carbs, tank, and petcock with your diagram and that might just fix your problem. Also make sure the vacuum line has a good seal and is not leaking because that was the root of my problems. Good luck!
I agree with ignition problem next time it dies pull a plug and check for spark . if you have good spark shoot a little ether in the carb it should fire
Is your tank vented properly? Sounds like it's getting an air lock in the tank. Run it and when it stalls open the gas tank and see if there is a vacuum. The petcock stops the carbs from flooding, only let's fuel flow to the carbs when there is a vacuum signal from the carbs
you should also check the float height of the carburetor chambers and make sure the carburetors are synchronous.
maybe I missed that part: but do have installed the choke? it is a real mess to start a gs500e suzuki engine without it. and it is normal after it runs you have to pull back the choke a little. and a little more if the rotation speed is getting above 1500 rotations per minute. and if the engine is warm you might push it complete in otherwise you might get also troubles getting to speed.
did you install the carburetor floating chamber flipped? it is much easier to access the screws at the bottom for checking the float height of the carburetor float chambers if these are at the outside.
another problem might be that you installed the engine with an slight angle to the driver seat. so the carburetor chambers are a bit higher. normally in the frame of a suzuki gs500e the carburetor float chambers are fully horizontal.
I am going to watch the behind the scenes video now. I just found your channel today because I was searching for gs500e videos, because I am helping a friend to get their engine back to life. and the fuel cock and all the fuel pipes where driving me crazy. at least you have much more space in the buggy frame to access all the parts.
Hope you solved the issue love the new camera angle nice job
Have you compression tested it yet?
I love the videos!! Keep up the great work!!
Your idle jet could be dirty/clogged, try pushing a paperclip or a wire from a wire brush through all the holes in your carbs and make sure to give them a super spray down internally and externally with some carb cleaner (like two cans of the stuff) and go through them and make sure nothings loose. It could possibly be the stator inside the motor, other than that I'd say check the engine's timing, should be dots or some sort of markings on the chains and overhead cam sprockets to let you know but it shouldn't be out of time. If possible somehow choke the fuel line so it doesn't feed so fast.
There's a few possibilites. The backfire sounds seem like a timing issue. I'd say definitely check the timing, it doesn't seem like it is overflowing with gas. Also take the carbs and clean them very well.
My DRZ Mikuni CV carb exhibits the same behavior with the vacum line is not connected. Hard to start, pops, dies, doesn't run that well overall. Just a thought if you haven't figured it out yet but the petcock usually have a third nipple that goes to the carb and from the carb to the crankcase with is what creates the lift for the carb, In your case you probably only have one line from the carb to the motor if you don't use a petcock valve.
vaccum leak?
is the choak manual or auto?
Perseverance made me subscribe to your channel.
I think it runs to rich, and so when you waited at the stopsign, some petrol could evapporate making it able to run again, tuning the carbs is key with motorcycle engines, also rev it up higher, the engine has its power in a higher rpm making it pull beter. Hope this helps, greatings from the Netherlands
I don't mind the videos of this cart this card is my favorite build of yours keep up the good work hopefully you get it right
Have you replaced the coil I have actually had some cars where the coil went bad and it worked intermittently
I don't know if anyone already commented this. But, since it is flooding you need to stop pumping the gas pedal when trying to restart it. That will cause it to flood worse. The best thing to do is to press the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there. That will clear the cylinder out and help it restart.
i had the same problem once and most engines are the same. the thing you did with the valves? well put again the ones it had and after you reversed what you did check the clearance on the rockers ( what you toched was the cam shaft not a valve, a valve looks more like the down half of a wine glass), also get a gas filter or dust will get to the carb and if it gets to the cilinder it will ruin the piston and posibly the cilinder itself
hope this is usefull, good luck!
That camera angle is sweet! Take to a bike mechanic bro it will cost heaps but at least to get some proper advice on what to do next
Spay something flammable (aerosol can) at the outside of the manifold, carb, and head gasket to test for vacuum leaks, if the rpm raises where you spray you possibly have a leak
Looks like the engine is tilted more than a bike ... Lower the float bowls a bit
Try compression test while it won't run
Hope this helps good luck
damn that looks so fun, i have to built one some day lol :D
better to be a little on the high side than the low side as the valves wear into the seat the clearance shrink. Also, rotate the engine a few times after the new shims are in and recheck the clearances. U would be surprised at how many times it changes after everything is seated.
Glad I told you about the CV carburettor. Might of fixed the buggy!
check compression, after engine is not wanting to restart.also if you had that much fuel in the cylinder check your oil it may be diluted and not lubricating properly.also check regulator, and stator. cdi's and coils are weird they can overheat and not work at running rpm's until cooled off, that may be the popping and misfiring condition.hope this helps.
Motorcycles have an fuel cut off manual switch under the fuel tanks, to keep the fuel to keep running into the engine, if the carb floats don't work & put a fuel filter on it as well. Try new coils or go EFI and make sure the starter is working as a generator too., so that the battery will not keep dying and use a bigger battery.
You need to stop letting it stall...keep it reving when you push the clutch in then at least you will be able to tell if its flooding when you let off or if it will die no matter what when 2 minutes comes...that will tell you right away if it spark or carb...sounds like its flooding out...also when you crank it over dont pump the throttle just hold it to the floor...you only need to pump if you have a carb with an accelerator pump (which you dont) and its cold or lean when starting...good luck man...love it
Have you changed the coil pack?
Are you sure you have a vented fuel tank? I ask because it sounds like it doesn't have a large enough vent to keep up with the fuel demand and it stops from running lean towards the end. Try opening the tank cap and see how it runs. Just a suggestion.
Did you upjet the carbs and they probably need balancing too
rickburnout666 I was stupid I tried drilli g a jet myself with a random bit I stuck it in a bike J had it would run . It would run great and it was faster but after the thing would run for a few minutes it would die and then it would take like 10 min to fire back up
If there are even any jets in there xD flowing like there isn't!
Rhead_neck nick i use mig welding nozzle cleaners to upjet if i cant get the perfect size jet size does the job ok with a bit of trial and error to get the bike going well after I adapt the filter and zorst
SwarleyAUS lol id there was no jets it probably wouldn't run. The filter is going to draw more air than when it's on the bike as there is no tank over it to slow the flow and with the exhaust thats used and airbox as it is it would need rejetting. But i aint sure if the engine is sitting at the same angle as when it was in the bike the floats may cut the gas off or flood the engine my old gs500 run like a sack of shit when I put pod filters and gutted exhaust, but run perfect after rejetting
Good point, floats might not be closing
Use a vacuum gauge to adjust and balance the carb idle, if it has the same compression on each cylinder, it should have the same vacuum for each carb. Could be floats hanging up too Or just bad seat valves or needles in the air fuel mixture.
The only reason I started watching one of your videos was because you look a lot like my brother, he has a Twitch account it's AmericanRiot if you wanted to judge for yourself. Anyway, I watch a bunch of them now, you've got some awesome videos, keep up the good work I enjoy them.
Sporadic idle surging is an indicator of an intake side air leak. Have a good look at your rubber carb mounts or air filter(if using it).
you need to check your compression cold. and check it again after it quits on you.if you got less than 90 lbs hot you need to hone your cylinders and get new rings on it. I have had motors do the same thing.
I’ve also bought an Suzuki gs500 engine, how can I make sure that the engine isn’t running lean ?
Install the pedcock, it will stop flooding when the engine is off but won't fix the running problems. Check the carb float hights and possibly carb rebuild kit
You don't have to drive it to see if it's fixed. Set it up on stands or blocks and run it through the gears and see what happens at the shop. If it is heat, gas or even spark, it will happen sitting there instead of on the street. That way you can stop pushing it home, and you can test things the minute it stops. I would like to know the cold compression and when it stops what that compression is. You could still have spark, fuel and air, but if there is a lack of compression issue, all bets are off. JMHO
you need to change the exhaust system back to how it was on the bike 2 header pipes into in on main pipe and run it out the back of the buggy and up with the stock muffler. the fuel and exhaust systems are designed and balanced to each other if you change one you have to change the other. dual straight pipes or zoomie type exhausts are only good for wide open or steady stead rpms like idle. look at a funny car idle or wide open. yes put the fuel tap back in the system also. also you need to synchronize your carbs balance them so the both let in the same about of air flow that will also help with your idle and dying coming up to a stop.
Your having an issue with coils. After it started back up the second time the engine sounded like it was running on one cylinder. You can tell it had a pretty bad misfire..
After the engine flooding the way it did you should have checked the oil. Most likely fuel got through the piston rings and into the crank.
Don't give up on it. It looks awesome and fun to drive around. I wish I could afford to have one.
i still think it is a pick up coil problem showing the exact same symptoms of a vn1500 i was working on checked pick up coils cold they had correct reading when checked just after engine cut out found one of the pick ups read infinity meaning a break in the winding
David Simpson I agree. I've commented the same thing on the last 3 vids. he hasn't checked it out yet. I recommended checking it cold letting it run until it dies and immediately checking them again. hopefully he will.
Sounds like a vacuum leak in your intake boots. Check them for cracks. And your floats are adjusted wrong. Remember to change the oil before running it. Your oil is probably full of gas now. I also told you about the vacuum fuel pump in the petcock back when you first started working on this. An inline electric fuel pump at 3psi would be easier to install. If you use the petcock, make sure you check the vacuum diaphragm to make sure it's not dried out and cracked or the fuel filter is clogged. Or you'll have the same problems.
try reading the plugs... love the vids😉
you could use electric fuel pump from a lawnmower. also a petcock so you can shut the fuel off also, a see-through filter would help you out a great deal. there cheap to replace and it would Save on expensive fixes like a new carburetor, carb rebuild kit or having to clean the carbs religiously to keep the dirt and grime out and if you can't see through the filter anymore just buy a new one
u the man bro keep up the good work.
great job diagnosing the cab problem
you need a fuel filter
Great angle for the text drive 👌
If there's gasoline leaking into the airbox, wouldn't that choke the motor, not letting it get oxygen? Or am I thinking of something else?
Boy it could be all kinds of stuff that looks like it's running now though good
I removed that vacc line from the petcock and put a vac line nub over the vac line insert on the carb it worked a treat. Ensure you tank isn't building up pressure aswell.
I had the same problem with one of my old four wheelers, it’s the battery, since you don’t have a charging system for it, the battery goes dead and then the engine can’t produce enough spark to run by just the coil
Chack for crack in the block of the tow pestens. Beacuse if there is a crack in the block after tow minets runing the block expends and it start leacking compretion and the engine stops. Chack the coile or replace with a new one becuse if there is a wire cut in the coile after 2 menets it start expand and it stop the curent to the plug this things is crazey but some times it hepends. Hope that you find the problem good luck.
Why is this thing so slow :O. Just asking because my 212cc Predator Chinese motor does 43mph and I dont even have a 12T sprocket yet.
It's a young Richard Nixon!
Lol just kidding.
You have to rev it up to about 3000 4000rpm because the engine is designed to push less weight. The idle should be fine but it sounds like electrical issue to me
The 15 minutes of it runing it warms up so when it gets warm it dies so to me it sounds like rings are bad has good compression tell they get warm then they arent as tight as what they should be or it could be headgaskets
I would look at changing the coil. When they go bad the will cut out when they get hot sten start working when it cools back down.
hey man just a thought your stator could be going bad and causing a weak spark
it is just a feul tap will make no difference to how it runs it just allows fuel to flow every time the number one cylinder is on the intake stroke and stops fuel flow when not running so stop any fuel leaks as alot of people forgot to turn on or off the manual ones
It sounds like its running lean after you run it hard
drain tank and use a huge fuel filter
check the plug color for proper fuel mixture.
vapor lock??
You've never heard of a petcock? lmao And I still don't know why you refuse to check the coils/stator.
Good catch with the petcock
The vacuum line won't be the solution to your problem, the fuel petcock has a vacuum shutoff. When the engine turns over it pulls vacuum on that line and opens up the valve fully to let fuel flow to the carbs. With your direct connection the carbs are already getting full fuel.
The shutting off after a few minutes, and the battery dying are from the same problem. The charging system has an issue. Either the rectifier and/or regulator are bad, or the stator is shorting when it heats up.
Adding the shutoff would still be a good idea, since it can help if things get plugged or stuck in the carbs, but you're going to need to do some electrical work to get that thing going properly.
Edit:
It could also be the ignition module itself, they can cause that sort of behavior, but with the battery dying while it should have been charging during the drive, I'm still thinking charging system.
you have an air cooled engine with no air flow over it. Put a fan on it or air ducts around the set. That's why it takes 10 min. for it to cool and restart. It will idle all day. but making power makes more heat. The vac. line on the valve is to cut fuel when the engine is off so you don't fill the carbs and flood the engine.
It’s probably the ignition coil or cdi, also you should put a fuel filter and shutoff on it so that you don’t have to clean the carbs and so that you don’t have to worry about it leaking gas when you shut it off.
All that vaccum line does is makes the fuel shut off if the engine quits...it uses a vacuum diaphram to pull open the petcock when its running...pure safety and you dont need it...it wont change a thing...I am a motorcycle mechanic...
Check the float level...can almost guarantee the motor isn't sitting at the same angle as on the bike which will throw the float level off...I had to deal with that on my shifter kart